THE SUNDAY OliEGOXIAX. PORTLAND, 3IAY 3. 1908.
THIS trip from Liverpool to Lon
don I found to be a green glimpse
of Kngland In the shape of a bio
graph. But the word green, as we say
it in our haste, is utterly inadequate
to apply to the color of the English
landscape. Though of varying shades,
It is always green to the n-th power;
It Is a saturated solution of green; it
Is a green that sinks Into the eye with
a sensation of indelibility. And as
this green flew by me, I watched it
from the window of a car most disap
pointingly like our own Pullmans.
I had hoped for the humorous ab
surdities of the compartmented Eng
lish trains. I had almost expected to
see sitting opposite me a gentleman
dressed In white paper, and I Involun
tarily watched for a guard who should
look at me through a telescope, and
cay, "You're traveling the wrong way."
For my imst definite impressions of
English railway carriages had been
gained from my "Alice," and I was an
noyed to find myself booked for a large
arm-chair seat in a parlor car, with
my luggage checked to its London
destination on "the American plan."
What, pray, was the use of coming
abroad, if one was to have all the com
forts of home?
As if to add to the unsatisfactoriness
of my first Impressions of English
travel, I found myself sitting opposite a
young American woman.
We faced each other across a small
table, covered with what seemed to
be r.reen baize, but was more likely the
reflection of the insistent landscape.
The lady was one' of those hopeless,
helpless, newly rich, that affect so
strongly the standing of Americans In
Ell rope.
She was blatantly pretty, and began
to talk at once, apparently quite obliv
ious of the self-evident fact that I
wanted to absorb In silence that flying
green, to which her own nature was
evidently quite impervious.
"Your first trip?" she said, though I
"MERELY A SMART PARTY WHO WEARS A HAT."
r J -
WOMEN'S MANY HUED
POR the next two months It will be a
toss up in point of extravagance be
tween headwear and footwear. To
pay J18 for one pair of walking shoes Is
only moderately extravagant, and the
number of pairs of shoes and ties neces
sary to a fashionable wardrobe Is far
ahead of the number of hats, which is
saying much.
The fashion of matching the shoe to
the gown and the fact that there are now
no end of models of shoes differing In
style and color from which to choose are
responsible for this, says the New York
Sun. At one time a woman's street shoe,
like a man's dress suit, was necessarily
black, and there was no very great
temptation to lay in a big stock.
Then came colored spats. These took'
for a while, but got to be so common
that fashion discarded them. Evidently
they had fostered a love for ornate
street footwear and soon smart women
Ixsun to bring back from Europe shoes
with vamps and uppers of contrasting
colors and materials variously trimmed.
The conservatives In dress almost lost
their breath when two particulary stylish
young matrons first appeared wearing
short black walking costumes and shoes
made with patent leather unders and pure
white uppers, and in the same season
pearl gray uppers in conjunction with
black vamps and sides were seen often In
the street. That was more than twb
years ago, and the fashion has grown
rapidly since.
None likes the fashion better than the
custom shoemakers. "
"For every pair of women's shoes or
dered two or three years ago, three pairs
are now ordered," said one, and he ex
plained that this applied to the women of
other cities as well as to New Yorkers,
the former placing most of their orders
in New York.
According to this shoemaker, there are
lenty of- good shoemakers scattered over
w a mm mmm b MamannMRivM m ssnvssrsffsss TavnBMannraawnnrnOTvnnswniOTnvBsBmnnOTwnvaavTVapnwMOT you believe the theory now. because
1 v, i ri -i TTzTTmj you hear me set it forth with an air
iliy'Cl;-yyh-ly ' - C;.---:'. . v ', . -. -:-.'.. -: II fiyy W of authority; but it will-take you at
SLXSAU fh VSMl'f- least four years to attain a true work-
VAWiM Z.ir SPAki? i- IWlW in knowledge of it. Moreover, you
kW5l '''v2'iP&T fOjf will ask every Englishman you meet
3f&W KNfy regarding cab-fees, and so conflicting
TH'.! V W,KT'iC'iy"- Wj I WMl De meir .uivicn inaL you will
$$rl change your tactics with every han- J?fc(
S )&$i&li&ik V "Then," said I. with an air of inde- JV. ,
X Z$$?Wfi It K 'Ztt!Z&&.b.i:&&j?: :;Tyrij;Vg Jr pendence. "I Bhall keep out of hansom A. 7 t
V " I cabs.: until I am fully determined what A V '
f .-:,&r I U K-3:lwVj I 'You have an American joke." he f
I ' 'f 111 f ' ""whs"'0 waggery!" observed Mrs. (' 'I Yc "Ji
never knew how she guessed it. "My!
it must be quite an event in your life.
Now it's only an incident In mine."
"You come , often, then?" said I,
not specially interested.
"Yes; that is, we shall cgme every
summer now. You .see he made a lot
of money in copper, that's my hus
band over there, the one with the plaid
traveling-cap, so we can travel as
much as we like. We've planned a
long trip for this year, and we've got
to hustle. I can toll you. I've bought Bli
the Baedekers and this year I'm going to
see everything that's marked with a
double star. You know those are the
'sights which should on no account be
the United States, but a belief that for
the latest styles one must go to New
York sends a lot of business here. The
other day a New Tork shoemaker showed
a pair of shoes Just finished for a well
known Chicago woman.
"I make all her shoes," he remarked.
"A small foot for Chicago." it was
ventured.
"Perhaps. It's a No. 5, though', but
the placing of the heel makes It look
smaller. But then," he added, "every
New York custom shoemaker is expected
to make the foot look smaller, except In
the case of old ladies, and to be care
ful not to mark the shoe with any num
ber at all.
"Once upon a time a custom order
shoe meant common sense lines and
comfort more than style. Now it
means style first, then the shoe must
look small and It must represent the
acme of comfort. Our job is far from
being an easy one. and that is one rea
son why tho cost of custom-made shoes
is a good bit higher now than for
merly." The shoe for the Chicago woman was
of fine black kid, with uppers of pearl
colored suede, finished with white
mother-of-pearl buttons. The vamp
had no tip, the heels were of a medltim
high French model. The cost was $18.
"Of late," the dealer went on, "fash
ionable women have shown a decided
preference for ties over high shoes.
Even in the coldest weather, openwork
stockings and low cut shoes have been
popular with New York women.
"Now that Spring Is here, the high
shoe Is having a vogue. Weather has
nothing to do with It; fashion has
everything to say. The New York
woman is willing to wear sandals in
midwinter and top boots in midsummer
If fashion orders It.
"For the time being. shoes with
fancy tops are In fashion. Cutting out
the very hottest season, they will be
worn more tl'.an ties. Some of the
omitted.' ' Then next year we'll do up
the single stars, and after that we can
take things more leisurely."
"You've never, been over before,
then?" I observed.
"No," she admitted, a little reluct
antly; "I went to California last year.
I think Americans ought to see their
own country first."
I couldn't help wishing she had
chosen this year for her California
trip, but the accumulation of green
vision had somehow magicked me into
a mood of cooing amiability, and I
good-naturedly assisted her to prattle
on, by offering an encouraging word
now and then.
"He's so good to me." she said, nod
ding toward her husband. "He says
he welcomes the coming and speeds the
parting dollar. Isn't that cute? He's
an awfully witty man."
She described the home he had just
built for her in Chicago, and it seemed
to be a sort of Liberal Arts Building
set in the last scene of a comic opera.
For a moment, I left the green to it
self, while I looked at my unrefrac
tive countrywoman with an emotion
evenly divided between pity and envy.
For had she not reached the ultimate
happiness, the apotheosis of content
only possible to the wealthy Nitro
Bromlde? And what was I that I
should depreciate such soul-filling sat
isfaction? And why should irjy carp
ing analysis dub it ignorance? Why.
Indeed!
After a few more green miles, an
important - mannered guard, who
proved to be also guide, philosopher
and friend, piloted me to a dining-car
which might have been a part of the
rolling-stock of the Pennsylvania rail
road. Nothing about It suggested the an
ticipated English discomfort, unless it
might be the racks for the glasses,
which, after all, relieved one of certain
vague apprehensions.
But at dinner it was my good luck to
sit in a quartet, the other three mem
bers of which were - typical English
people. :
I suppose it is a sort of reflex ner
vous action that makes people who eat
together chummy at once. The fact of
doing the same thing at the same time
creates an involuntary sympathy which
expands with tha effects of physical
refreshment.
I patted myself on my mental shoul
der as I looked at the three pleasant
English faces, and I suddenly became
aware that, though of a different color,
they affected me with exactly the same
sensation as the clean, green English
scenery.
This, I conclude, was because Eng
lish people are so essentially a part of
their landscape, a statement true of no
Americans save the aboriginal Indian
tribes.
My table-mates were a perfect speci
men of the British matron, her hus
band and her daughter. I should de
scribe them as well-bred, but that -term
seems to Imply an effect of acquisition
by means of outside influences. They
were rather well-born. In a sense that
implies congenital good-breeding.
Their name was Travers, and we
slid into conversation as easily as a
launching ship slides down into the
water. Naturally I asked them to tell
me of London, explaining that It was
my first visit there, and I wished to
know how to manage it.
"What London do you want to use?"
asked Mr. Travers, interestedly. "You
know there are many Londons for the
entertainment of visitors. We can
give . you the Baedeker London, or
Dlckeps' London, or Stevenson's London,
or Bernard Shaw's London, or Whistler's
London "
"Or our own W. D. Howell's London,"
I finished, as he . paused in his cata
logue. "I think," I went on, "the London I
FOOTWEAR
newest models are In fact cut higher
than the ordinary shoe, the tops being
made of a thin waterproof, cravenetti
or thin leather.
"Cloth and suede tops are warmer
than leather tops, therefore one of the
most stylish of the Spring shoes is
made of patent leather or kid or brown
calf in a contrasting color."
The dealer showed these leathers In
the whole skin. They Included many
shades of blue, green, brown and red;
there were ecru, yellow, dark and light;
orange, pink and champagne. Falling
the desired color, a skin is dyed to
match a sample.
If uppers are wanted to match a
street ,gown all the wearer, need do Is
to produce the material. Thus a pair
of patent leather shoes had tops of a
light gray striped material, the stripes
about half an inch wide and arranged
to meet In a V over the instep. The
effect was very pretty.
The same style shoe In russet brown
was topped with a quarter-inch gray
two-toned stripe, and a similar model
in dull brown leather had uppers f
very dark gray quarter-inch stripe
cravanette. Other models included pat
ent leather finished with Yale blue kid
leather tops, dark browns topped with
white cloth speckled with brown and
russets with uppers of champagne.
The combination of black and white,
black and cream and black and cham
pagne, in the new models, are startling,
but stylish, as a young woman who had
just purchased a pair of shoes made
entirely of white kid except the vamp,
which was of patent leather, remarked.
It took her some time to choose be-,
tween this style and one which had a
black vamp and heels and all the rest
of the shoe white, and another which
had white uppers and white heels with
black vamp and sides.
Another striking model was entirely
of white leather finished with black heels
and trimmed at the sides and across the
want is a composite affair, and I shall
compile it as I go along. You know
Browning says 'The world is made for
each of us.' and so I think there's a
London made for each of us, and we
have only to pick it out from among
the myriad others." -
VThat's quite true," said Mrs. Trav
els. "You'll be using, do you see. many
bits of those Londons mentioned, but
combining them in such a way as to
make an Individual London all your
own."
The prospect delighted me, and I
mentally resolved to build up such a
London as never was on land or sea,
"But." I observed, "aside from an in
dividually theorized London, there must
be a practical side that is an inevita
ble accompaniment. 'There must be
facts as well as opinions. I should be
most glad of any hints or advices from
experienced and kind-hearted Lon
doners." "Without doubt," said Mr. Travers,
"the -question trembling on the. tip of
your tongue is the one that trembles
on the tip of every American tongue
that lands on our shores 'What fee
shall I give a cabman?' "
"I laughed outright at this, for it
was indeed one of my collection of
tongue-tipped questions.
"But sadly enough," went on the
Englishman, "it Is a question that It
is useless for me to answer you at
present. An American must be in
London for four years before he can
believe the true solution of the cab
fee problem. The correct procedure is
to give the cabby nothing beyond his
legal fare. If you give him tup-
THE ONE WITH THE
pence, he looks at you reproachfully;
if you give him fourpence, he scowls
at you fearfully; if you give him six
pence, he treats you to his verbal
opinion of you In choice Billingsgate.
Whereas,. If you give him no gratuity,
he assumes that you have lived here
for years, and lifts his hat to you
with the greatest respect."
"Why can't I follow your rule at
once?" I demanded.
"I do not know," returned Mr. Trav
ers. "Nobody knows; but the fact re
mains that you cannot. You think
vamp with an elghth-of-an-inch wide
black band of patent leather. Side by side
in one establishment were a pair of
nauve shoes touched up with white but
tons and a pair which combined a vamp
of pale blue kid with white uppers, heels
and sides. This same design combined
also a brown vamp with white heels, sides
and uppers and brown vamp and cham
pagne colored sides and top.
If anything, the varieties of low cut
shoes are more ornate than the high cut.
For example, there is one model made of
fancy leather that Is. leather veined with'
colors to form a leaf design. This Is seen
at Its best in brown veined with ecru and
red. In one case a tie of this leather
cut with a short vamp and a medium
Cuban heel was finished around the edge
with a half-inch wide band of gold gal
loon. A particularly novel design of tie runs
up well on the front of the foot, some
thing after the fashion of a Juliette bed
room slipper, and Is finished with a high
French heel and a short pearl buttoned
opening a little 'to one side of the front
line. In one example the champagne
colored suede was embroidered in a double
row of oblong eyelets across the front
of the foot.
A tie with the vamp of one color and
the remainder1 of quite another color
seems to be one of the most popular
models both In ties and pumps, and for
ordinary wear the brown or ecru vamp
leads all the rest. Compared with brown
the black vamp is nowhere. Shown at
one of the best custom shops are brown
ties and pumps finished between the
sole and the upper with narrow white
beading.
In one medium high tie of russet
leather there are white eyelets and laces.
Gray and white mixed pearl buttons, by
the way, have taken the place almost
entirely of black buttons in all the fancy
shoes.
In evening slippers the most notice
able novelty is In the trimming of the
vamp, which consists preferably of a
small oblong buckle of gold with jewels,
real or imitation, sunk into the surface, or
of a comparatively small stiff bow made
to stand upright instead of lying, flat
against the slipper. -s
you believe the theory now. because
you hear me set it forth with an air
of authority; but it will-take you at
least four years to attain a true work
ing knowledge of it. Moreover, you
will ask every Englishman you meet
regarding cab-fees, and so conflicting
will be their advices that you will
change your tactics with every han
som you ride in."
"Then," said I, with an air of inde
pendence. "I shall keep out of hansom
cabs, until I am fully determined what
course to pursue in this regard."
"But you can't, my dear lady." con
tinued my Instructor. "To be in Lon
don is to be in a hansom. They are
inevitable." '
" Why not omnibuses?" I asked,
eager for general information. "I
have long wanted to ride in or on a
London 'bus. "
Mr. Travers' eyes twinkled.
"You have an American joke." he
said, "wnich cautions people against
going into the water before they learn
how to swim. I will give you an In
fallible rule for 'buses: never get on a
London 'bus until you have- learned
to get on and off of them while they
are in motion."
"What waggery!" observed Mrs.
Travers, in a calm, unamused tone,
and I suddenly realized that I was in
the midst of an English sense of
humor.
The dinner progressed methodically
through a- series of specified courses,
and when we had reached the vegeta
ble marrow I had ceased to regard the
green distance outside and gave my
full attention to my lucky find of the
Real Thing in English people.
Mr. Travers' advice- was always ex
cellent and practical, though usually
hidden In a jest of somewhat heavy
persiflage.
We discussed the English tendency
to elide letters or syllables from their
proper names, falling back on ' the
time-worn example of the American
who complained that Englishmen spell
a name B-e-a-u-c-h-a-m-p and pro
nounce it Chumly.
"But it's better for an American,"
said Mr. Travers. "to pronounce a
name as it is spelled than to elide at
his own sweet will. I met a Chicagoan
last summer who said he intended to
run out tt Win'c's'le."
"What did he mean?" I asked, in my
ignorance. '.
"Windsor Castle," replied Mr. Trav
ers. gravely. .
The mention of Chicago made :ne
remember my companion in the parlor
car, and I spoke of her as one type of
the American tourist.
"I saw her," said Mrs. Travers. with
that Inimitable air of separateness
that belongs to the true Londoner;
"she is not interesting. Merely a
smart party who wears a hat."
As this so competently described the
lady from Chicago, I began to suspect
what 1 later came thoroughly to real
ize, that the Eng.lsh are wonderfully
adept in the making of picturesque
phrases.
PLAID TRAVELING CAP.
During our animated conversation,
Miss Travers had said almost nothing.
I hadread of the mental blankness
of the British Young Person, and was
not altogether surprised at this. -
But the girl was a delight to look
at. By no means of the pink-cheeked,
red - lipped variety immortalized in
English novels, she was of a delicate
build, with a .face of transparent
whiteness. Her soft, light brown hair
was carelessly arranged, and her vio
let eyes would have been pathetic but
for a flashing, merry twinkle when she
THE HOTEL
he goes across the aisle feet first and
with one well-directed kick shifts it two
points to larboard. Leader John Sharp
Williams, of Mississippi, work a neat
wallpaper design of art nouveau scratches
on. Sub-Leader DeArmond, of Missou
ri's face with his finger nails.
"Not a gun anywhere. No resort to
the code. No exchange of cartels. I
doubt if some of those Southern mem
bers would know a cartel if they met it
coming down the big road from Car
tersville. Young Mr. Heflin. of Ala
bama, is the only one of them that
has made any noticeable effort to re
vive the old custom and you know
what a kidney stew with mashed po
tatoes and boiled onions he made of it.
Heflin's one of the youngest fathers
that the prohibition wave has. He was
going down to a church social in his
capacity as a parent, to speak on the
subject of temperance, and so natural
ly he took a gun about the size of a
pair of skates in his hip pocket along
with his manuscript showin&r what the
lellish liquor traffic had done. A col
ored party hauled out a bottle of sloe
gin on the street cor and Mr. Heflin's
ardor was fired and he inaugurated a
little crusade of reform of 44 caliber
that took in at least one innocent by
stander. He had a style of marks
manship like a Roman candle. In the
old days they wouldn't have let Heflin
carry the cotton batting to a real duel.
"After all, Jeff Is my favorite in the
new school of constructive statesman
ship. He comes from ciose to the soil.
You know that when you see his collar.
He spent his early life In a cave eat
ing mast. The first time he rode on
a train they had to blindfold him and
,back him aboard up a plank. He eats
his chewing tobacco on the car. The
hlghwater mark of the '84 rise In the
White River is still on his front teeth.
When he needs manicuring they send I
HE TREATS YOU TO HIS OPINION
occasionally raised their heavy, creamy
lids.
Remembering Mrs. Travers' aptness
in coining phrases of description, I
tried to put Rosalind Travers Into a
few words, but was obliged to borrow
from the Master-Coiner, and I called
her ''The Person of Moonshine."
By the time I was having my first
interview with real Cheddar cheese,
the Traverses were inviting me to visit
them, and I was gladly accepting their
delightfully hospitable and unmistaka
bly sincere invitation.
Scrupulously careful to bid goodbye
to my Chicago friend before we reached
London, alone I stepped from the train
at Euston Station with a feeling of
infinity anticipation.
Owing probably to on over-excited
imagination, the mere physical atmos
phere of the city impressed me as
soinethingt quite different from any
city I had ever seen, I felt as if I had
at last come into my own, and had far
more the attitude of a returning wan
derer than a visiting stranger.
The hansom-cabs did not appear any
different from the New York vehicles
of .the same name, but I climbed into
one without that vague wonder as to
whether it wouldn't be cheaper to
buy the outfit than to pay my fare.
My destination was a club in Picca
dilly a woman's club,' which I had
joined for the sole purpose of using
its house as an abiding-place.
The cab-driver was cordial, even
solicitious about my comfort, but
finally myself and my hand-luggage
were carefully stowed away, the glass
was put down, and we started.
It was after dark, and it was raining,
two conditions which might appall an
unescorted woman in a strange city.
The rain was of that ridiculous Eng
lish sort, where the drops do not fall,
but play around In the air. now and
then whisking Into the faces of passers-by,
but never spoiling their clothes.
It was enough, though, to wet the
asphalt, and when we swung Into Pic
cadilly, and the flashing lights from
everywhere dived down into the street,
and rippled themselves across the wet
blackness of the pavement, I suddenly
realized that I was driving over one of
the most beautiful things in the world.
I looked out through my hansom
glass darkly, at London. Unknown,
mysterious, silent, but enticing with
its twinkling eyes, it was like a masked
CLERK
for a farrier, and he can whip his
weight in wildcats if stuffed.
"It's a funny thing, Larry, but outside
of the Southern statesmen, the Southern
ers don't seem to be the hotheads they
used to be, if they ever were. The aver
age Southerner these times wears a derby
and he'd just as soon buy his Spring
socks from a Yankee if the price is
right. The only big feud they've had in
Kentucky in a year was the row over the
new organ in a Baptist Church in Owens
boro." "How about them fierce, long-haired
guys with the slouch hats you see in the
bar here every night?" aked the House
Detective.
"Oh, you mean those conversational
firebrands that're always committing ar
son with their mouths?" said the Hotel
Clerk. "They're professional Southern
ers. Larry. Thej- don't grow down South.
You don't find 'em there. The climate
of the North Is best suited to their cul
ture. It's a word and a blow with them
a word and then blow for three or four
hours.
"But I love to hear them spout. They
always belong to old Southern families.
There aren't any new Southern families
anyway it's only the prime old vatted,
bottled-In-bond Southern families that
we hear about up here. It's the proud
boast of every one of those cooKing
sherry sports that he springs from fight
ing stock. And so he does. He'll spring
the length of this room from anybody
who remotely resembles fighting stock.
And he loves to boast about the rich
cavalier blood that flows in his veins.
Any such blood he's got was delivered at
the wrong address. I've been down South.
Larry, and I know. If a professional
Southerner from this town went to Mem
phis or Mobile, and put on his favorite
line of moving-picture remarks about his
ancestry, . the - populace would lynch him
as a common nuisance.
"The young female professional South
OF YOU IN CHOICE BILLINGSGATE.
beauty at a ball. Yet. beneath that
mocking elusive witchery, I was con
scious of an implied promise, that my
London would yet unmask, and I
should know and love her face to face.
A Week's Experiences.
Xew Orleans Times-Democrat.
The year had Bloomily begun
For Willie Weeks, a poor man's Sun.
He was beset with till and dun.
And he had very little Mon.
"This cash." said he. "won't pay dues.
I've nothing; here but ones and Tues."
A bright thought struck him. and he said.
"The rich Miss Goldrocka I will .Wed."
But when he paid his court to her,
She lisped, but firmly said, "No Thur.'
"Alas." said he. "then I mott die!"
Ills soul went where they say souls Ft!.
They found his gloves and coat and hat.
And the Coroner then upon him Sat.
"What Waggery " Observed Mr.
Travers.
CONTINUED FROM PAGE FIVE
erner in our midst is also a brisk, little
plaid sample, as you may have noted,
Larry. Generally, she's In the chorus of
some Broadway show, and her accent
ain't on straight. It sounds too much
like the Southern dialect they talk up
state in the Southern Tier. But any
way, she don't have to be born down
South to make her eligible. If she be
longs to a show that plays South Bend,
and gets all her regular divorces In South
Dakota, she's qualified for active mem
bership In the Ladies' Auxiliary of the
New Yerk Local of the Self-Mado South
erners' Vnion."
"I heard that taffy-haired dame from
the Casino, that comes in here every
evenin' for tea. savin' the other day that
her pa was a Southern planter." said the
Hotel TJeteetive. "I wonder did she tell
the truth?"
"Yes. she did." said the Hotel Clerk.
"Her father's in the undertaking busi
ness in Atlanta."
A Little Hint.
Detroit Free Tress.
I love little children.
So charming and sweet;
Their eyes flashing sunlight.
The sound of their feet,
I'm fond of the youngsters.
But still, for all that
It's no sign that I want them
To sit on my hat.
I'll fondle the cables
And Jog on my knee
The rosy-lipped children,
Whoever they be.
But still, though I love
All the babies, so cute
I don't want their finger-marks
Ieft on my suit.
My heart is a playground
Where children may run;
I want all the toddlers
To revel in fun.
But though my heart beat
For each sturdy young rhap
1 don't want an ink well
Spilled into my lap