THE SUNDAY OKEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, APRIL 2G, 1908.
Pigskin is the approved leather for young
men to carry just now. The masculine
gift list Includes belts, umbrellas, canes,
scarf pins (and in these odd stones like
jade or lapis lazuli are used-, and gloves,
preferably natural colored chamois skin.
FASHIONS FOR THE GRADUATES
GOOD FORM FOR GRADUATES
With commencement week little more
than a month off. the graduate Is Im
mersed in examinations and essay-writ-lnp.
while her mother and elder slatera
strive desperately to secure from her a
final decision on graduation gowns.
Time was when the graduate, either
from htjih. school, private school or col
lege, found a pretty white frock sufficient
for her needs, but today commencement
wi eU is marked by a succession of en
tertainments which demand various
f ro ks. each absolutely fresh and nult
ahle. Wortunately. these can all be sum
mery creations, so the mother of the
graduate has the satisfaction of killing
two sartorial birds with one cash stone,
commencement frills and the Summer
w ardrohe.
To beein with the simplest costume
reedod, lot us consider the natty suit
fr baccalaureate Sunday. If the climate
Js very balmy during commencement
week, tub materials may be worn to
church on that great Sunday, but It Is a
trifle safer to select a silk or voile or
very light weight cloth suit.
The very smartest and most up-to-date
creation la the one-piece dress, empire -or
princess or jumper mode, wltn matcmug
coat. Next to this comes the pleated
aklrt and jacket, with strappings "or over
Jilousc effect to match the skirt and Jack
et. But a very safe Investment ton the
mother of limited mearui W a princess
gown of soft Summer fabric, made witli
lace chemisette and undersleeves, and a
separate Jacket In some coloring and ma
terial which will combine well with al
irjost any Summer gown her daughter
mv wear later In tho season. For these
Jackets natural colored pongee Is very
popular, and In lightweight cloths come
charming checks, stripes and modest llg
ires showing white with pastel or rather
t (ded coloiingalike brown, green, blue,
etc.
The cutaway Jacket Is best suited for
(tailored effects, while for a very dressy
Hill I he IjouIs coat with fancy vest is
most effective.
Kntigh tlks are used almost exclusive
ly for Hummer suits, and taffeta Is decid
edly out of the running. Some very tiatty
costumes for girls from 16 to 20 ehow
fine checks or stripes on the dress, and a
little Jacket of plain dark silk.
Voile and soft silk make the best prin
c hs gowns, and the new mixed voiles
(silk and cotton!, which sell at about .10 or
4o cents a yard, work up beHiitlfully,
though they lack the lasting qualities of
an nil-wool or silk and wool voile.
on every froi-k this season there Is a
stmgestlon of tho lllet ' or princess net,
and much ribbon velvet Is seen for trim
ming Hals to be worn with theso tailored or
'iiil-t-allorc! suits belong In one of two
classes. Kitlier they ure extremety simple,
enormous flat sailors tilted a trifle on the
lrft side and trimmed with Alsatian or
.Merry Widow" hows of rather stiff
ribbon, or they are literally weighed down
vith masses of flowers. For wear with
tub fabrics, the most popular hat Is
ftltapcd something like a large dust cap
tth flounces of embroidery, net or lnce,
In which are twisted colls of velvet rib
bon and wreaths of Hue flowers.
Walking skirts are still pleated, but
the pleata are arranged In groups or clus
ters, not kilted as during the Winter.
Three graduated folds, rather narrow,
Unlsh the foot of tailored skirts. The
Simple Graduating Krork of India
(erniaat
sleeve of cutaway coats are long and
plain, those of the Louis coat three-quarter
or elbow leDeth. and natural colored
chamois gloves, which wash admirably,
are worn by young girls.
For the house frock which the young
graduate will need for the luncheon which
Is sure to be given by one of her class
during Commencement week, there Is
nothing prettier thai a one or two-piece
costume of cotton -oile or the Iovety
silk and cotton novelties offered In such
bewildering variety. As Copenhagen blue
Is the fad of the season I am describing
a very effective little costume made from
Inexpensive striped novelty goods in this
fashionable tint.
The skirt -was laid in fine tucks over
the hips, the blouse was pleated back
and front and trimmed around the shaped,
square neck with harmonious embroidered
bands In blue, green, gold and white. The
elbow sleeves were finished with the'same
embroidered trimming. The chemisette
was of lllet net, ltnely tucked, and a
set of enamel buttons to matflh the em
broidered trimming with a girdle of self
tone silk complied this dainty costume.
Another pretty design which could -be
worn either with a Jacket for baccalau
reate Sunday, or to a luncheon. Is the
natural colored pongee shown herewith.
The skirt Is laid In inverted box pleats,
each of which Is trimmed with design
in wide silk braid or velvet ribbon, golden
brown In tint with a design above this
In line matching soutache braid. The
ovorblouse apparently strapped oyer the
shoulders. Is outlined by tho ribbon vel
vet or braid In tho same fashion, and the
under blouse of princess net. in pale ecru
Is trimmed with golden brown velvet rib
bon In a narrow width.
A very pretty blouse design is shown
for the fiat-chested girl. This Is of fig
ured net with ruffled sleeves and an
Una With Ail-Over F.mbrolderr an'
V.I. Lare.
E f fert for Girls
overblou.se or shaped bretelles .In silk,
heavily braided and edged with a piping
of darker velvet.
The graduation frock Is of fine India
lawn, and Is described as a aemi-piin-i
cess design, though it has a distinct
waist line and shaped girdle. The yoke
Is of all-over embroidery, and so Is the
cuff of the sleeve, which is laid In deep
tucks, each edged with fine lace or em
broidery. The surplice-shaped overblouse
Is made of folds edged with lace, while
over the sleeve falls a deep cap of grad
uated embroidered flouncing. The skirt
Is in three sections, and Is peculiarly be
coming to the tall, angular girl. The yoke
or chemisette may be removed and the
frock then becomes suitable for evening
wear. Cluny or German VaL lace may
be combined -with all-over embroidery,
and Is softer than the embroidered edsrlno-
White ribbon In the hair, and -white
siik stockings with kid or very fine white
canvas pumps, should be worn with this.
The canvas pumps are the newest and
smartest footwear to wear with a wash
areas.
iMulle, net, organdie, chiffon and soft
white silks like habutaje are used for
commencement dresses, but all-over lace
robes, crepe de chine and heaw satin e n
now considered far too heavy and ornate
i or ine graduate.
MART DEAN.
GIFTS FOR THE
GRADUATE
In selecting a gift for the girl graduate,
tho shopper feela only the limitations of
the Individual purse. The array of suit
able presents is comprehensive and be
wllderlngly beautiful.
Relatives of those who have opulent
purses now give jewelry or purses, the
latter not always empty, to the young
woman who has proven herself a credit
to her family.
The jewelry fads of the moment are
lavellcres and bracelets. The former is
a slender, finely wrought chain with com
paratively heavy pendant or pendants.
The Jungle pendant is oftenest a fresh
water pearl combined with precious and
semi-precious stones. If more than one
pendant Is shown, they are connected by
the finely wrought gold mesh, similar to
that employed in the chain proper. The
correct thing Is to give the girl a laveliere
set with her birthday stones. For the
girl who Is fond of wearing brown, how
ever, the topaz Is a suitable stone, and
for her who loves violet, purple, etc.,
select an amethyst setting.
The smartest new bracelets are. very
heavy and quaint looking, set with old
fashioned stones, coral, turquoise, jade,
onyx. etc. Many cameos are also seen.
Less expensive but equally welcome
are the horseshoes, circles, long, rakish
crescents and bars of gold-filled metal,
set with imitation pearls or rhlnestones.
These are not cheap, either, for a good
grade of brilliants in the newest settings
cost $5.
A set of striking rh In est one buttons or
buckles in various sizes makes an ac
ceptable gift. The fad for mesh purses
In silver and gold- continues, and vanity
bags tn German silver are most depend
able. -
Young girls may give their graduate
friends the most personal of gifts, like
silk stockings, dainty hamfwrought lin
gerie, etc. Practical gifls are the new
pompadour parasols or a silken scarf for
Summer evenings.
Young men may give girl graduates
only books, flowers, or pictures. A pho
tograph or etching of some famous col
lege scene at hrnie or abroad, or a
Christy drawing of college life, Is a gift
which any college girl will appreciate.
All the book shops now keep editions of
standard works Intended especially for
Commencement day gifts, and this list
Includes some lovely single volumes done
In college colors.
Relatives give young men graduates
money, which may be sent either in one
of the pretty coin boxes of leather, velvet
or fancy pper which come for this pur
pose, or in a coin purse or card case.
Men's Dress Clothes for Summer Wear
THE number of men able to change
the weight of their dress clothes
to suit the Summer season Is not
large. To have a frock coat, for in
stance, which shall be so light In text
ure as to be suited to Summer wear Is
a luxury pure and simple. The Spring
and Summer uses of the frock coat are
few. It may be- worn possibly at a few
town weddings, and after the middle
of June the number of them will be
limited. Guests at a country wedding,
at whatever season It may be, are not
required to wear a frock coat, and only
the ushers are condemned to this pen
alty for thctr Importance.
There have been made by a Klfth
avenue tailor during the last two weeks
at least three of these light frocks
which are beautiful enough In them
selves to appeal to .any ntan fond of
dress and with the means to gratify
his tastes In that particular. The light
materials in which these Summer
frocks are made up cling to the figure
more than the heavier Winter fabrics,
and for young men of the slim fashion
plate type show the figure off admira
bly. There 1. iess of the stiffness of
the heavier Winter coat, and falling
open as a frock coat should when It is
properly worn the Summer day dress
coat Is as smart a garment as the
wardrobe of luxury provides.
In form t differs little this year from
the coat worn in the Winter months.
The shoulders are not padded, but
show the natural width of tho man in
side; the skirts, which do not fall be.
iv-w fc.e knee, are slightly belled and
fitted in with enough closeness to the
waist to outline the figure. The peaked
lapel has a satin collar, and the long
sleeve it must fall well over the long
cuff to be really smart Is finished
with a cuff that really does open and
shut with two buttons.. This Is edged
with a bias stripe of "the goods run
ning about the entire sleeve along the
cuff. But there must be no exaggera
tion In any detail of the Summer frock.
There are three buttons to the new
frock, and only one of them in the
roll. That should never be buttoned
even If habit does inspire the wearer
to button close to the other two. Occa
sionally these coats have the edges
braided, but there has already been
eome sort of a rebellion against the
braiding, which in spite of Its great
popularity was never considered the
best style for the frock coat. Blind
stitching, as It is called, which shows
no sewing at all, is really the smartest
finish for these coats.
The materials- for the Summer frock
are. of course,' tn black and very dark
gray, unless the coat is meant for driv
ing, when very light gray or even
brown is the smart color this year. For
the dress frock the typical soft gray
worsted shows a herringbone or other
Italian Cake.
Italian Cakes Half a cup of butter,
warmed but not melted, and the same
quantity of sugar, beaten to a cream.
Add one by one, beating continuously,
four eggs, whites and yolks. At the
last beat in very hard half a cup of pas
try flour. Pour this mixture to the depth
Natural Colored Pongee With (-olden Brown Trimming and Eeru et
Blouse.
of half an inch in a shallow buttered tin
and bake in a moderately quick oven for
10 or 15 minutes. Turn upside down to
cool; spread thickly with a firm jam or
Jelly, preferably strawberry or raspberry.
and then overlay this with stiff choco
late Icing. "When firm, cut into odd
shapes, squares, discs, diamonds, tri
angles, etc.
Snlad Sandwiches Pit and chop a
dozen large queen olives; meas
ure and add an equal amount'
of finely chopped nuts and the
same of finely chopped celery. Mix
with mayonnaise dressing to the consist
ency of mush and spread on thinly cut,
lightly buttered white bread.
pattern, almost Invisible; and In blacks,
whether they be woolens or cossimeres,
the soft dull finish will bo used. There
is, indeed, little demand for the hard
shiny finish for dress garments of any
kind. In the evening dress suits,
whether the cut be full evening dress
or merely a dinner coat, the materials
are the soft, rough finish goods.
For the rough frock coat to be worn
on the top of a coach few other places
are suited to such striking dress the
smooth finish gray or brown is ap
propriate, although one often sees at
the races roats so rough as far as the
material goes that they look like home
spuns. In the brown frock coats the
smoother finish Is Invariably used.
Brown Is always a less dressy color
than gray. Just as it is so much fur
ther removed from black. Alfred Van
derbilt, who wears these sporting frock
coats on top of his coach with his
white high hat and the black band
about the bottom, always prefers the
light rough grays.
The half-dress coat or cutaway,
morning or walking coat, as It Is vari
ously called In this country. Is made
In rhe same light textures that are
used for the Summer frock. It, like
the frock, Is either but half lined or
Is lined with the thinnest silk only
about the front bodies. It is now braid
ed. If the material be dark gray or
black, of the kind used in the frock,
and this one detail .adds a note of
dressiness .to the garYnent that it gets
in no other way. If there be an invisi
ble diagonal, check or herringbone in
the black fabric, the braid makes It
more modish still. Extremely conven
tional dressers, on the other hand, hold
to the old theory that braid Is suited
only to the goods of a hard, smooth
finish and take the blind stitching as
the most appropriate finish for a half
dress suit.
There should be breast pocket, braided
If that finish is "used, a change pocket
with a flap, and tails that are of mod
erate length. The skirts are cut in at
the waist to give the necessary look of
trlgness and either two or three buttons
are used. The lapels are peaked. The
coat is cut low enough at the neck to
show the waistcoat, which, if a waist
coat of the same material be worn, should
be finished with a white dickey Inserted
In the collar. Sometimes the change
pocket is omitted, which adds an element
of dressiness to the cutaways.
The half dress or cutaway coat may be
made Tn a variety of materials which are
not possible to the frock since almost any
material suitable for a sack suit may be
used for a cutaway; but such a garment
will not be any more dress than a sack.
Only flannels seem to be excluded from
the list of materials available for the cut
away. This is in the real sense of the
word, however, a walking rather than
a half dress coat, and certain peculiari
ties of the cut emphasize that difference.
The tails of these coats, when made up in
mixtures or checks, for instance, are some
COMMENCEMENT week in public
and private schools has become a
series of social functions which re
quire a little code of etiquette quite
their own. Particularly is this true of
the high school, which today boasts of
its junior reception, its baccalaureate
sermon, its fraternity teas and all the
j
social etceteras of the full-blown col
lege. Tho correct gowning of the fair
graduate Is discussed under the head
of fashions, but a word about correct
dress for -the boys of the class Is not
out of place here. A neat sack suit or
a very, dark blue or black coat and
fancy or white vest, with striped trou
sers, may be worn when the xercises
are held In the morning or afternoon,
any time. In fact, before n P. M., but
for all functions which occur after night
fall the young man should be provided
with evening clothes. I say this in a
spirit of family fairness. So often the
girl graduate Is well supplied with com-
what wider than in the dress cutaway
and they have broad flaps over imaginary
pockets at these points. Tho ticket or
change pocket In front also has a flap and
often t he seams are strapped through
out. Then the handkerchief pocket Is
likely to have a flap, which in some cases
buttons down. There Is indeed no end to
the sporty details that a tailor may add to
the cutaway when it is made of rough
goods. But it is a mistake to think that
such a rig can be regarded as dress. At
tho utmost ft might be possible at a
country wedding.
There are a few changes In the Summer
dress auk, which Is usually made of a
cloth so thin that It heeds a fining to give
It the necessary body. The collar Is pro
vided with the peaks which in the smart
est coats are covered with satin down to
the edge. The trousers, which are also
of such thin material that the prudent
man -buys two pairs to begin with, are
usually edged wlh braid, although it Is
somewhat of a fashion to have them made
In these Summer suits without braid or
with such a thin line of cord as to be
almost invisible.
The Summer dinner coat is perhaps the
most oiecessary of all these-dress gar
ments for hot weather wear. Men who
stop in town for the Summer are likely
to put on a dinner coat every evening.
Thus It happens that a Summer dinner
coat is in the wardrobe of. many New
Yorkers who would not think of spending
the money necessary for Summer dress
coats.
The dinner Jacket as usual varies In no
important particular from the sack coat,
beiii; the same in length and In the close
ness of Its fit. In order to have the great
est benefit of the thin cloth, the tailors
leave the coat without any lining other
than that to be found on the collar, which
has peaked lapels as a rule, although
there is a tendency Just now to return to
the roll collar, which was always more
suRed to an informal garment like a din
ner coat. These shawl rolls, as they are
called, are not in the least appropriate to
full evening dress. They are much better
for the short dinner coat, however, as
they are more In keeping with a sack
coat and usually make the fit of the din
ner coat better. The soft tropical wor
steds in gray and black are used for
these suits, which are a delight to men
In the habit of dressing every night for
dinner.
The Summer evening dressr Just like Its
Winter pendant, must be worn with a
white waistcoat, and the finest duck
serves best for that purpose. "It Is of
course single breasted. V shaped at the
opening and ending in the two points.
Three buttons are the usual number, and
whether or not there be a collar Is
wholly a question of taste. The better
form for a waistcoat for a dinner coat Is
some dark gray, black or drab, and these
come in lined and cotton goods as cool
as aay whito waistcoat would be. al
though they may not look so. And the
black tie that accompanies the dinner
coat may be of the thinnest and softest
black china silk.
mencement week finery, while Just about
anything is considered good enough for
the boy who Is to plunge from the school
room Into business.
The boy deserves better treatment. If
he has attained his growth, an evening
suit, or at least a tuxedo coat with
matching black trousers, is a good in
vestment. With this he wears black vest
and tie, which he must be taught to tie
for himself, not a ready-made bow, black
pumps and nolsery, and white gloves'
For the daytime functions see that he
has white linen, a neat, light silk puff 'or
four-in-hand tie, gray gloves and well
polished shoes.
As this is a day of large high school
classes and comparatively small - opera
houses or auditoriums, the number of
tickets allowed each graduate is limited.
Therefore, the recipient of a card should
consider herself honored, and if she can.
not possibly attend the exercises or social
function, return the card to its sender
with an explanation, so that the invita
tion can be used by some other eager
friend or relative.
Gifts for graduates should be sent to
the home or the auditorium where the
exercises are held on the day of the com
mencement exercises proper. Generally,
valuable gifts are sent to thj house, flow
ers and congratulatory telegrams to the
school or auditorium.
Toilet Table Essentials for Girls
The toilet table of tho gfrl still in hoi
teens should stand for the proverbial
ounce of prevention which is immeasura-.
bly more important in the pursuit of
beauty than tons of remedl?s. It the
growing girl employs preventive meas
ures, the grown, woman will not require
the services of beauty specialist, der
matologist or surgeon.
The thoughtful, thrifty mother will
make sure that certain simple Imple
ments and remedies are found on her
daughter's toilet table.
For the care of the hands sh will see
that the girl has the following manicur
ing implements: Thin, curved sharp scis
sors, a nail file, some orange sticks an
a chamois-covered polisher. For treating
the hands will be needed lemon or a lit
tle peroxide of hydrogen for removing Ink
and similar stains, some white vaseline
for softening the thick skin around the
nnil. and a little powder for polishing the
nails. The latter can be made at home,
and I will be glad to furnish formula
for same on receipt of stamped and ad
dressed envelope. If the daughter Is sent
several times to a first-class manicurist
and wntches the latter's work carefully
she will soon be able to manicure her
own hands and her mother's.
For the hair and its care provide a
brush with moderately stiff bristles, never
a wire brush, which tears the hair while
it removes tangles; a coarse bono or cel
luloid comb, a simple- tonic that will re
mind the girl to ventilate and massage
her scalp nightly, and a shampoo mix
ture which varies according to the tex
ture and characteristics of the hair and
scalp.
Insist that the brush and comb be kept
clean. They should be washed more often
than the hair. Ordinarily dry hair should
be shampooed at least once a month and
singed before it is washed. Fix a certain
date, like the now moon, and see that
the daughter selects a dry, sunshiny day
for the shampoo. If the hair is oily. It
needs shampooing at least every fortnight
or 10 days. I will be very glad to fur
nish girls and their mothers with for
mulas for shampoo mixtures or simple
tonics on receipt of stamped and ad
dressed envelope. Please remember to tell
me something about your hair, its color,
and whether it is dry or oily.
Never allow a young girl to wear a rat
In order to Increase the size of her pom
padour. The rat Is generally made of
dead hair, and is the false hair manu
facturer's best friend.
Teach the daughter to take down her
hair, ventilate or shake it ,and massage
truncheon Frock mt Copenhagen nine Siovelty Voile, With Embroidered
Bands.
Members of the class or their friends
intending to entertain during commence
ment week should secure a schedule of
social events. Otherwise, Invitations
may clash, and one hostess or another
be disappointed.
The young man or woman who Invites
relatives and friends to share commence
ment week pleasures has a perfect right
to expect one courtesy in exchange, and
that is good taste in dressing. The
mother, aunt or family friend invited on
such an occasion should don her best and
give the lass or laddie cause for pride.
The graduate will not forget to show
all courtesy due to her elderly guests
on this occasion. In making introduc
tions she will present the young man to
the woman, the younger woman to the
.elder, thus: "Mr. Blake. I want you to
meet my mother"; or. "Nellie, dear. I
want you to know my aunt. Mrs. Carl
ton. Aunty, this is Nellie Bray, of whom
I have so often spoken."
If tea or refreshments are served at
any school function, tho graduate will
see that her elderly guests are properly
served, and before the younger set. lu
fact, while the graduate takes the con.
tor of the stage during the regulation
graduation exercises, at all social affairs
she Is the hostess, and owes all the
dut ies of the hostess to any of her Invited
guests. PRUDENCE STANDISH.
the scalp with a little tonic every night
before retiring, as - religiously as she
washes her face and brushes her teeth.
When all girls learn to do this, we will
Iihvo hair-health indeed.
For the complexion the most Impor
tant implement on the young gtrls
toilet table Is her complexion brush,
and this should bo renewed frequently,
when tho bristles begin to flatten. Scrub
bing tho face and the neck with this
brush, hot water and pure, unseen ted
soap Is the foundation on which all com
plexion aids are built. Nothing can be
done to improve the skin that It not.
first of all, clean. The girl who scrubs
her neck well into the hair In the back
and does not forget her chin In the front
will never have the yellowish, cloudy
throat which the most expensive linen
will not hide.
Complexion lotions should be used spar
ingly by the growing girl. If she has that
bane of the young girl's life, acne, black
heads and pimples. 1 will be glad to send
her, on receipt of a stamped and ad
dressed envelope, a regular course of
treatment which, if patiently and perse
veringly followed, will give good results.
If the skin is simply rough from much
outdoor life and a natural tendency to
chapping, try this simple oatmeal lotion:
Take two tablespoon fuls of oatmeal,
adding a quart of water, and lo4 boll for
ten minutes. Cool and strain, and to the
liquid add the juiee of one very large
lemon or two small ones, and a table
spoonful of alcohol.
Apply this with some antiseptic gauze
or a bit of old table linen which Is abso
lutely clean. Ieave some of the lotion in
the pores to soak in, if you use it at
night, or before lying down to rest dur
ing the day.
If your skin is very oily, do not wash
It Incessantly with hot water. Give t a
night and morning scrub, but during the
day wipe It off with antiseptic gauze or
old linen dipped in the following lotion:
. Pulverized borax, one ounco; pure glyc
erine, two ounces; camphor water (not
spirits of camphor), two quarts.
Above all things hear In mind that
beauty Is built on cleanliness. A girl told
mo the other day that she paid a hair
dresser $1.50 a week to keep her elaborate
coiffure up to date, but, believe me, It
was wasted money, because there was an
ugly black ring around her neck which a
little cold cream, followed by a scrub
bing with the face brush, -could have re
moved. As it was, jthe work of the hair
dresser only served to emphasize the lack
of cleanliness.
KATHERINE MORTON.