7
New Designs for Dinner Gowns
Etiquette for the Dinner Guest
' THE SUAIJA OKIXiOXIAN, PORTLAND, FEBRUARY 23, 1908.
IPI 1 KKE5rnPEn Dice f fA5niH5 (&.Peaott ' f j
if . - (i ' i
THK small and somewhat Informal
dinner Is no longer under the
Lepten ban, and the result Is an
Increase of these functions when
dances and theater parties are ta
' booed. Moreover, even when one or
two are gathered together as din
ner guests, the custom of wearing
what suggests the decollette gown Is
rapidly growing In America, a pretty cus
tom long followed by our English cousins.
The women who cannot don pure de
collette designs In dinner bodices may ap
proach them with the small square or
Dutch neck, or she can have the bodice
cut quite deeply, and then hide her phys
ical defects of throat and shoulder with
lilmy lace, tulle or gauze. Thin arms may
be hidden by the crinkly, shirred mous
quetaire sleeves coining down over the
back of the hand In deep point. Made of
chiffon, gauze, net or lace, these mons
quetalre sleeves are a blessing to the
diner with thin, scrawny arms and are
welcomed by all thin women.
The new fabrics Intended for dinner
frocks include striped, figured and bor
dered chiffon cloth, satin foulards, with
fancy borders, satin messaline trimmed
with Japanese embroidered, lace, silky
voiles to be made up with Irish, filet or
cluny lace; lace and net robes and the
very sheer so-called tub fabrics, the lat
ter exquisitely figured and bordered, re
producing the designs shown in figured
and bordered chiffons.
Uhe newest features of the dinner de
signs offered In exclusive shapes are the
shadowy designs in flowers, the tunic,
real or simulated, and the inevitable
touch of black on every costume, together
'with jeweled. principally rhinestone,
buckles, buttons or ornaments.
The tunic Is perhaps the most im
portant departure in dress, and' one which
very few women of moderate means can
attempt. It is a modified overskirt, with
long, sweeping lines, and must be made
ot supple or clinging fabrics. It is best
described as a fitted upper garment with
out yoke or separate sleeves, fastened
down the back and hanging over the
skirt, somewhat longer in the back than
In the front. Sometimes it fits the figure
snuslv. Again it is semi-fitting and short
walstert, Rmpire fashion. It is trying to
the average figure and the home dress
maker alike.
Crepe de chine is no longer seen In
chic dinner frocks, but the new satin
finished foulards may be used. The
latter arc most practical, for a dinner
frock of soft, supple foulard vith
Dutch neck and elbow sleeves, may be
converted into a serviceable and smart
house gown by simply inserting a
hand-embroidered batiste or linen
dickey and attaching deep cuffs to
match.
The Japanese embroidered laces so
popular this :eason are simply silk
net, heavily embroidered In huge Jap
anese designs', roses, chrysanthemums,
etc.. either In self-tone or contrast, and
often with a thread of gold or silver
running through the embroidery. They
can be purchased for moderate prices,
(ar below the usual "real" laces. A
four or tie-lti(h handing in excellent
design ran be hud for $2.50 per yard.
For the slender purse, an admirable
fabric for a Spring dinner frock, which
can also be utilized for Summer wear,
Is the new French cotton vollo in
stripes or figures, self-tone or contrast.
These imported voiles ' are soft and
supple, sinU combine well with Irish
lace. The cotton voiles of American
manufacture are only 25 cents a yard,
but they are coarser and stiffcr than
the French brand.
Three interesting designs are shown
today. One suggests the Japanese
influence. In both sleeves and trim
ming. The model from which it was
drawn was of greenish-blue satin
messallne, trimmed with Japanese lace
In Just tne right shade of ecrn net em
broidered in blues and greens. This
banding was used to oiitline the panel
front of tho skirt, the hem and to sug
Pretty Arms
Did you ever notice the bands of a
French woman? They are chic, like
everything about her. Long before she
dons her frock, her arms and hands
are "dressed" as it were. Perhaps she
has spent an hour doing this, but do
not think for an Instant that it does
not pay. She, removes her gloves at
the table with great ease and assur
ance, knowing that the kid glove hides
no defects.
The busy housewife may have little
time to spend at her toilet table, yet.
she can do much for her hands even
in the two weeks between the receipt
of the dinner Invitation and the event
ful night. Let her begin at once by
wcariqg gloves from morning until
night, save when eating, and without i
fail from night until morning. After
breakfast she must slip on a pair of
old kid gloves and wear them while
dusting, making beds, etc. After din
ner she puts them on again during the
afternoon, and again in the evening'
after supper. During the day she
bathes the hands occasionally with the
following lction, letting it dry Into the
skin before, putting on the gloves
again:
Sweet and bitter almonds, blanched!
and pounded into a paste, 250 grams
each; lemon juice, 60 grams; sweet
milk. 30 grams; sweet almond oil, 90
grams; brandy, ISO grams.
. At night she covers the hands with
the following paste and then wears a
pair of old gloves until morning:
Myrrh, 1 ounce; honey,' 4 ounces; yel
low wax, 2 ounces: rosewater, 6
ounces. 'Melt the wax in a double
boiler and while hot add the myrrh,
which should be used in powdtred
form. Beat these thoroughly together,
then add the honey and rosewater,
Stirling constantly. Then add enough
glycerine, drop by drop, to make a
spreadablf paste.
Strange as this statement my seem,
it Is nevertheless quite true, that lac
ing will cause red bands and arms.
The girl who wears her corsets so
tight that breathing Is an effort is al
most sure to be afflicted with red and
swollen hands, and no amount of
pastes and cosmetics will effect a cure
until she relieves the cause. A large
number of women are annoyed with
such blemishes as warts. These can
e removed by a very simple home
remedy. I shall be glad to give it to
ny of my readers upon receipt of
Stamped and self-addressed envelope.
On the wash stand of ever'' woman
who wants white hands should be
found a cut lemon. I know otno cos
metic, or bleach, of such general value.
Lemon juice will take off almost any
stain, whether it be from ink. clean
ing vegetables or polishing silver. It
strengthens the nails, prevents hang
nails, and kills the growth of the scart
skin about the nails.
A systematic treatment of the hands
which should be followed 12 months
In the year is here given: With pure,
uiiscented soap and warm water,
lather the liands and use a nail brush
on the nails. When the stains and
grime and dust resist the soap and
gest the tunic near the knees; also to
outline the over-blouse and short ki
mono sleeves. To the latter sleeves
were attached sleeve flouncing of fine
lierre lace, and if a tucker or dickey
is necessary, because of thin neck and
shoulders, lierre lace may be used for
this purpose.
The second design shows what can
be done with n. simple black net over
white silk. The mesh was very fine,
so that it had the look of a voile in
silky weave, and the lace chosen for
trimming the skirt and outlining sur-pllce-bsetelles
was of black chantilly,
the Insertion inset with medallions of
silver lace. This means considerable
hand work for the home dressmaker,
but the effect Is exquisite, particularly
on a blonde. . The wheels of silver lace
can be bought by the yard, and give a
much' more Frenchy effect than would
the use of solid silver lace insertion.
Less expensive would be medallions of
heavy white lace inset in lightweight
black insertion or vice versa, light
weight white medallions on heavy
black. " The girdle should be of soft
black velvet, with rhinestone buckles
or buttons in the back.
For making a dinner blouse of net.
to .be worn with matching skirt or
skirt of a different fabric in the same
Dinner Gown In Blue-Green Messallne
With JapHDrar I.nee.
shade, the bodice model Is most ef
fective. All the trimming is concen
trated on the bretelles and cuffs. The
model was of ecru net, the bretelles
heavily encrusted with self-tone lace
medallions, outlined by the narrowest
of velvet ribbon Jn coral pink, with
piping and buttons of the same tint.
The girdle matched the net in softest
messallne. and the tucker fitted into
the brettelles was of ecru mulle with
hand-run tucks.
A few up-to-date hints concerning
dinner frocks: Black nets and chif
fons are made over white silk, tea
green and brown over cream or bis
cuit colored Bilk. White and silver
lace combine admirably tn making up
a frock of black net. mulle or chiffon.
A lace or embroidered robe Is not co
nomlcal because you must line it first
with silk, then a drapery of chiffon,
and In the long run you will do better
to buy material, lace or net. by the
yard, lfave your skirt very plain and
your bodice elaborate. MARY DKAN.
and Hands
water treatment, try the lemon juice,
or perhaps a little pumice stone. Rinse
In clear water to which you have
added a few drops of benzoin, and par
tially, dry on a towel. Pour into the
palms of your bends a few drops of
perfumed glycerine and rub thorough
ly into the skin. Sometimes a dash of
talcum applied when the glycerine is
half rubbed in has a softening effect.
If glj-cerine does not agree with your
skin, use pure honey that has b'-en
strained. This is very healing, and at
the same time whitening.
It is very seldom that a perfectly
moulded arm is seen. It is apt to be
too large, with coarse skin, or too thin
with flabby muscles. The latter condi
tion can be largely alleviated by mas
sage. To massage the arms properly
you must grasp one arm with the op
posite hand and begin at the shoulder.
working down the arm with a wring
ing or twisting motion. The next time
begin at the wrist and work in the
same manner up to the shoulder. To
improve the circulation, take a mass
of the muscles between the thumb and
fingers and move them up and down
upon the bones, 'just as if the flesh
were a sleeve hung upon the bones,
that might be pushed up and down.
Sometimes a form of goose-flesh is
found upon the upper arm. If the
points are very large, pumice stone
may be employed, but often vigorous
brushing with a rough flesh brush is
sufficrentl Lemon juice will also re
lieve this trouble.
The girl with a very scrawny arm
will find great benefit in the following
flesb-builder, but It should never be
used upon the face, as it contains lano
line: Tannin, M gram; lanoline, 30
grams; oil of sweet almonds, 20 grams.
Melt the almond oil and the lanoline
in a double boiler over a slow fire, then
beat in the tannin, drop by drop, until
the mixture is quite cool. '
A great number of women are bur
dened with 'an excessive growth of
hair on the arms. Pumice stone, not
pumice powder, rubbed well over the
arms every day will "often relieve this.
If not, a depilatory must them be re
sorted to. I will bo glad to furnish a
depilatory formula on receipt of stamp
ed and self-addressed envelope.
In connection with the slender, grace
ful arm and dainty white, soft, hand.
I must call attention to the necessity
of taking great care of the finger-nails.
Not long ago a whole article was de
voted to nails and manicuring in these
columns, but in a word, I must say that
nil efforts- will be lost if the nails are
not well manicured, and the tip of
each finger does not shine like a tiny
piece of pink coral.
KATHERINE MQRTON.
Which and Why.
Nashville Tennesaeean.
Why is it that the fellow who is always
very skeptical
Is also and it rarely fails exceedingly dvs-
pentlcat?
Does being a dyspeptic also render him a
skeptic
Or the fact that he's a skeptic come from
belna- a dyspeptic?
COWI
BRIDAL LINENS
IN 1908
THE overflowing linen chest of our
grandmothers has disappeared!. To
be sure the fad of the moment is for a
carved chest, lavender scented, but the
modern bride is not so particular as to its
contents, for she finds that fashions
change in household as well as personal
linen.
She is now expected to provide not
enough clothing and household linen to
last for years, but only enough lingerie
to last a year, while her household sup
piles are governed by the size of her new
cottage or flat home.
In her personal linen she is supposed
to have at least a dozen sets of drawers
and corset covers, six rather fine and
six made for ordinary hard wear. She
avoids cheap, lace-trimmed lingerie and
selects for the best sets the popular
convent work which she may embellish
with inserts of good all-over lace or edg
ing, done with narrow Val. edging, done
entirely by hand! For her common sets,
she selects the plain hemstitched ruffle
finish. Six nightgowns, three flannel petti
coats and half a dozen lingerie skirts, one
silk and one stout sateen of chambray
petticoat she will also need, half a dozen
pairs of silk or lisle hosiery and half a
dozen In the cotton weight she prefers.
A pair of shoes for dress, another for
tailored costumes, rainy-day boots, danc
ing slippers and house slippers she must
also have. Two dozen handkerchiefs, a
dozen in the new cross-bar Shamrock
lawn for common wear and another dozen
picked up at odd times in liner weaves,
will suffice. A pair of coutil corsets for
cool weather and another in batiste she
will need. As warm weather is not far
off. she will have plenty of dainty dressr
Ing sacques and negligees in wash fabrics,
such as plain and figured lawns, with
lace trimming and ribbon bows. A soiled
negligee is inexcusable on the modern
woman.
If she is to preside over the average
Avar or six-room flat, or cottage, she will
need in household linen a dozen sheets,
the same number of pillow cases, two
dozen huck and damask towels, half a
dozen bath towels, half a dozen glass
towels and the same number of tea
towels, a silence cloth and half a dozen
table cloths, unless she uses the bare
polished table with doylies, in which case
NET. W ITH BUCK AM)
SI
four table clothes will do, and a dozen
round doylies with scalloped edges must
be purchased. To this she must add three
dozen napkins in breakfast and dinner
sizes, and such centerpieces and linen
mats as her purse will permit. The as
bestos mats, covered with scalloped linen
slips are preferred to knit or straw mats
under hot dishes.
All linen is marked with the bride's
.maiden initials or monogram. The mostJ
1 m L. 1 . i . . ; .. . . -.11 nn..tliSl
plain, letters, not over an Inch in height.
Some brides, breaking away from cus
tom, mark their personal, not household
linen with their Christian name,' "Lucy"
or "Mary," oiftlining the name with No.
80 cotton, and surrounding it with a cir
cle in plain or loop stitch.
MARY DEAN.
To Gain W eight.
If you want to take on weight, rest upon
every possible occasion, and sleep as long
and late as you want to, for sleep is a
most valuable factor in the accumulation
of fat. If sleep Is wary, court it by exer
cise, or drink a warm glass of milk just
before retlrir.g. Avoid excitement of any
kind from either conversation or reading
just before going to bed. Bodily massage
invites slumber, or a gentle massage of
the scalp, dry or with tonic.
Be careful of your diet, eating slowly
and partaking of nourishing, simple foods,
masticate thoroughly, and avoid liquids at
meals. Avoid worry and fretting, occupy
your mind with wholesome diversions.and
take all the exercise In the fresh air and
sunshine you can get. Ventilate your
sleeping apartment thoroughly at night.
Sleeve Links.
An idea which has been followed out
by a number of girls for sleeve links for
their morning waists of the tailor-made
variety in flannel is to get the . plain
mother-of-pearl buttons, which are sold
for men's evening wear.
They are fist buttons, just like those
which are sewed on shirtwaists, only
finer and of a more attractive design.
They are small in size, and when used
in the tailored shirtwaists they are ex
ceedingly neat and at .the same time
smart-lookins-
With them are worn scarf pin and belt
buckle to match.
The Owl.
The owl. with his saucerlike eyes,
May appear exceedingly wise.
But I think he's a stupid thing.
He doesn't even know how to sing.
And sleeps while there's a ray of light.
Then wonders why he can't rest at nigbt.
LVER LACE.
NOTES FOR THE
HOUSEWIFE
CJ EESWAX, broken in pieces and put
L within the folds of white woolens
and silks, will overcome the tendency to
yellowness that white fabrics have when
laid away for any length of time.
Water standing in a room is a good dis
infectant, as it .absorbs all Impurities.
Cake icing will not crack when cut If
a little thick cream is added to it. Al
low one teaspoonful to each-white of an
egg. '
To remove a rusty screw, first apply a
very hot iron to the head for a short
time; then immediately use the screw
driver. Always save the water in which rice,
macaroni or anything of a like nature has
been boiled. It is excellent for soups
gravies, etc.
To' take grease out of leather apply the
white of an egg to the spot and dry in
the sun. Repeat the application till the
stain is removed.
When boiling old potatoes, which are
apt to go a very dark color, put a table
spoonful of milk into the water in which
they are boiled, and you will find they
will bo beautifully white when cooked.
When filling oil lamps- place, a small
lump of camphor in the oil vessel: It win
greatly improve the light and make the
flame clearer and brighter. If you have
no camphor add a few drops of vinegar
occasionally. -
A quick method of maklngbread-erumbs
is to put the crumbs from a stale loaf
Into a muslin bag. tie at the top, and
rub it gently with both hands for a few
minutts. The , bread will hen be fine
enough for any puspose. :
Coffee stains, even when there Is cream
in the coffee, can be removed from the
most delicate silk or woolen fabrics by
brushing the spots- with pure glycerine.
Rinse in lukewarm water, and press on
the wrong side until quite dry. The gly
cerine absorbs both the coloring matter
and the grease.
THE first duty of the man or woman
who has received an invitation to
dine at the house of a friend is to
send either an acceptance or regret to
that invitation. There is no function
where an even number of guests Is more
essential to its success than a dinner. A
dinner engagement once made can. . be
broken only for some i-ltal reason, such
as sickness, death In the family, etc. I
have known a girl . to accept an invita
tion of this character, then, a day or
two before the dinner, . decide that her
blue gown was too. soiled and her pink
one was out of date, arid finally write a
hasty note to her hostess, saying that
she finds she is unable to be present.
This is simply Inexcusable.
Guests should arrive at Jhe house of
their hostess about ten minutes before
the hour set. It is almost as grave a
mistake to arrive 30 minutes too soon
as 10 minutes too late. As a rule, no
room is set aside for the men. as they
come in evening dress and simply re
move their coats and hats in the hall,
but a dressing-room is always ready for
the women. - .
When the dinner is announced the
hostess asks the men to escort the la
dies to the dining-room. She desig
nates to each man the woman whom he
is to take in.. He then offers his left
arm to that woman, and finds - their
Flcru Net With I.ooe and Coral Velvet.
scats, . which' will be indicated by plate
cards. The gentleman then draws out
the chair, seats his companion and seats
himself. It is, , of course, necessary that
the hostess be seated first. Once in
their chairs, the ladies remove their
gloves. ,
All' seated, the guests take their nap
kins and shake them out. laying them
across their laps.. The first course is
generally on the table when the guests
enter the dining-room. The' hostess
gives the signal to eat by doing so her
self. - l.ct me say here that it is the
height of bad manners to refuse a course.
If you do not like soup, that is no rea
son why you should refuse to have a
plate of it set before you. You need not
indulge in 'it to any extent, but make a
pretense of It. Take a little of every
thing that is set before .you and make a
semblance of enjoying it. ',
When dinner has been served, it is
the custom for the ladies to adjourn to
the parlor and have their coffee, leav
ing the men of the party to enjoy a
Btag. Therefore, at the end of the des-
Forecasting Frocks and Frills
WITH Summer still several months
away, fashions in hot weather
modes are practically settled. To
the average feminine mind, backed by
a slender purse, the saddest feature of
the fashion outlook is the very radical
change In fabrics. Hardly anything that
was left in good order from last Sum
mer's wardrobe can be' utilized this year.
While stripesremain In vogue for all
two-piece suits-, with tailored finish, the
stripes show a decided change. Two
tone stripes have been in vogue. Now
the three-tone stripe is the only effect
seen in smart shops. The tailored suits
we are laying away showed black and
blue, green and brown, grcn and blue,
etc. The new stripes come in threes,
not- pairs. For example, ,jn a light effect
you will find oyster-white, blue-gray and
rather deep blue combined. Next comes
a biscuit-colored background with half
Inch stripes of tea-green and a soft red
dish brown. A striking black and white
stripe shows a hair line of red on either
side of the black, and so It goes; the
three-tone effect in everything.
The new silks are all. novelties, save
when they appear In waists to match
tailored suits. The new black and whites
have a-. silvery sheen, and are made up
with a ' touch of crimson. A stunning
model showed a Madame Butterfly design
with kimono sleeves and two-button
semi-fitting coat with vest done in black
and white silk stripes. The vest was of
black taffetas, laid in fine pleats and fin
ished with a very fine piping of the scar
let silk. The skirt was quite plain,
stitched with black silk. '
' The delicately tinned silks for dressy
costumes almost Invariably show self
tone stripes. That is. on a taffeta silk In
one of the new greenis-h-blue hues showed
a satin stripe nearly an inch wide, and,
overlaying both the satin and taffeta
stripe, huge oblongs of moire: yet all
three, moire, satin and taffetas, are in
precisely the same tint of blue, the dif
ference lying in weave and sheen.
The new foulards have a decided satin'
sheen, with a supple weave, and are
priced at $1.50 per yard. For all these
foulards come laces dyed in exactly the
correct shade: most of them run with a
thread of gold or silver, also -the Japan
ese embroidered laces on silk net.
A smart slik novelty Is the shade of
natural colored pongee with a border
on either ed;e of Persain design in
faded colorings. It Is said this will "be
much used for tunic effects, paniers,
jackets, -vests and fancy blouses, but it
is not an economical silk by any means.
Far more practical are the wide silks
with single borders, which are used
around the foot of skirts, coats, etc.
Unquestionably the border is the thing,
and all the new. goods show this effect.
The new gauzes and chiffons have-a bor
der effect in various shades. For exam
ple, a silk gauze starts at the foot of the
skirt in a rich shade of natier blue,
grows lighter and lighter in shadowy
stripes until it reaches the waist line a
bluish white.
A novelty in cloth for the tall, slender
sert. the hostess rises. The gentlemen
rise and pull out the chairs for the ladies,
who pass into the drawing-room. l.e
men then sit at ease, resume their talk
and smoke and sip their coffee, while
the ladies in the drawing-room chat as
they dring their coffee, the men joining
them, when they have finished their ci
gars. . There Is no set time for remaining
after dinner. Sometimes there is a lit
tie music, then again the guests simply
sit about, talking to one another. How
ever, the lady makes the first motion to
go when she has an escort with her. A
single man who came alone to a dinner
should ask his hostess before he leaves
if he can escort any young lady home.
Always take leave of both the hostess
and the host.
Men should wear full dress suits at a
formal dinner: by that I mean swallow
tail. The Tuxedo coat is for informal
occasions, when ladies are not present.
A black tie. however, is permissible at a
dinner in place of the usual white linen
one. At very elaborate dinners women 1
are expected to wear decollette. At din
ners given with less formality women
wear dresses cut out slightly at the neck,
with elbow sleeves. ;
Guests at a dinner never fold up their
napkins when dinner is finished. Since
the napkin will not be used again, it is
sufficient to place It on the table un
folded as you rise -from the table. The
knife is held in the right hand, the fork
in the left when cutting. When the
knife is not being used it is laid at one
side of the plate and the fork tnen
used by the right hand to convey the
food to the mouth. Never turn the con
cave side of the fork up, using it as a
sort of shovel. At the conclusion of each
course, both knife and fork should be
placed side by side, resting wholly on
the plate. Spoons are used very llttlo
at a dinner, for 'soup and coffee only.
Vegetables must be eaten with a fork,
not a spoon. Salads must be cut with
the fork only, without the aid of a knife;
In using a spoon, eat from the side, not
the tip of it, and in taking soup, dip the
spodVi from you, not towards you. Re
member that you are expected to talk at
a dinner, as well ' as to eat, hence take
small mouth fuls and eat slowly.
PRUDKNCK STAND1SH.
Baby's Wraps.
This Is the. time of year when lamb's
wool plays a very important part in the
wardrobe of the little ones.
The new coach covers' seen In -the shops
are all of this fuzzy material, and its
great advantage lies In the fact that it
cleans "like a rag.
Some of the covers are sewn together
like an Eskimo sleeping bug. so that no
breath of Winter air may chill the tiny
tot inside.
A lamb's wool mult and tippet and a
white coat and hood of imitation caracal
complete baby's polar bear appearance.
It Is always best to dress the little ones
In pure white, with only a touch of color
in the ribbon bow at the top of the. hood,
for then they look, and can be kept
Immaculate. Happily the darker colors
for children have gone out of fashion,
and tho offspring of the present genera
tion wear cheerful raiment.
Sweatbrcads With Peas.
Take three pairs of sweetbreads and
cut each one into four slices, season wlth
salt and pepper and roll in flour. Fry in ;
porcelain-lined frying-pan in butter for!
five or six minutes on each side. Remove I
and put on hot platter around the edcej
and cover with the following sauce: Mlxj
together a scant ounce of butter, a halfi
teaspoon of finely chopped parsley, half
a teaspoon of finely chopped parsley, half
a teaspoon of lemon juice, good pinch j
of salt and dash of white pepper. Mix
together with a fork and spread over the
sweetbreads. In the center of the plat-j
ter arrange a can of French peas which
have been heated with butter.
woman shows the popular basket weave,
for all the world like a wall paper pat
tern. Running up- and down are three
inch stri-pes in fine black and white
checks, and. interlacing crosswise or hor
izontally, runs another band effect, show
ing heavy black with tiny blocks of white
scattered over it. At tho distance this
looks like bands of ribbon interlacing,
and it is said that the fabric will be used
for circular skirts to be worn with plain
black jackets. It is an impossible design
for stout or short women.
Very few plain dotted Swisses are seen.
Most of them are in checked designs, or
stripes with tiny flowers or conventional
figures embroidered where the cross-bars
meet. The new embroideries- are ex
tremely broad and open in design. This
will necessitate wearing under Summer
frocks, either exquisite lingerie skirts or
silk slips.
The new lace and embroidered robes
show tho border influence, but are fin
ished around the bottom with Vandyke
points, rather than plain hemstitched or
scalloped edges.
The smartest neckwear, either collar,
and cuff sets or ties and jabots, is done'
in fine linen with E-nglish eyelet embroi
dery, edged with fine Irish crochet. With'
tailored shirtwaists will be worn, by ex
tremists, delicately tinted linen collars
and cuffs, with ties to match, all em
broidered in self-tone.
The first showings of small Spring hats
for tailored suits display the upturned
brim. Several trl-eornered shapes are of
fered with - trimmings of stiff ribbons,
quills, wings, etc. The first shade hats
are English in design and extremely
homely. They have low, round crowns,
rather broad drooping brims of uniform
width all the way round, and they are
trimmed with flat scarfs with fringed
ends and flat coque or novelty feathers,
falling down the back or over the left
side. These hats are far more trying to
the average face than the mushroom or
mandarin hats of the past Winter.
MARY DEAN.
Pumpkin Soup.
Say "Pumpkins" to a New Englander,
and he will reply "Pie," but the French
man responds "Soup." Pumpkin soup
is a regular Winter standby for the
French household, and is said to be de
licious. In making It allow a quart of milk to
one cup of cooked pumpkin. Cut the
pumpkin in small pieces, sprinkling light
ly with salt and cook in boiling water fcr
Ave minutes. Drain off the water, mash
thoroughly, and Btir in a tablespoonful
of hot melted butter. Pour boiling milk
over croutons arranged In soup dish and
lightly sugared. Then add the pumpkin,
stirring the whole well together and
servS.
People who ordinarily do not care for
the pumpkin flavor find this soup a pleas
ant surprise, for in this disguise the
pumpkin takes on the flavor of a rich
cream of corn. ' .