THE SUNDAY OKEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, FEBRUARY 2, Ii)08. Fetching Costumes for Mid-Day Feasts WITH the average woman, the first thought, after the flutter .of pleasure coincident with the receipt of a luncheon Invitation, is: ."What shall I wear?" Often indeed, the question of regrets or acceptance Is not decided until the recipient of the coveted invitation is finally convinced that she has something suitable for War on such an occasion. nd what shall that be? As one woman aptly, put it: "Some thing just a little too good to wear to church, and yet not dressy enough for dinner." The ideal luncheon costume for a guest is a dress of very supple cloth, like the shimmery, silky new broad cloths, with a dressy wrap, possibly of velvet, silk or fur, a velvet hat trim Tried with flowers, feathers or lace, or two of .these cunningly combined im maculate white gloves and pretty kid shoes. The tailored two-piece suit with independent blouse has no place in the category of luncheon gowns, neither has the mannish shoe -with the thick sole, or the heavy, dark walking glove. A luncheon suggests daintiness in cos tuming as well as in service. The woman who feels that she can not afford a separate and dressy coat for calling, reception and ' luncheon wear will do well to select a three piece semi-tailored costume of broad cloth, such as is shown today in our Illustrations. First, you will see the coat and skirt with a very effective hat for afternoon wear, and next you will see thfi blouse, which can be made of the broadcloth like the skirt and coat if a supplo light-weight quality is selected, or from silk in precisely the same shade as the cloth. The model from which this pattern was sketched was In' the new dark tea-green broadcloth, a shade which promises to be all the rage for early Spring wear. The skirt touches all the way round and can be made with a slight dip in the back. The pattern shows four gores, and is laid In In verted box pleats, which make the figure appear more slender than does the ordinary pleated skirt. These In verted pleats are strapped with sou tache braid bands In self-tone, held in place by buttons, while the band around the bottom of the skirt may be of panne velvet as in the model, or of the cloth- edged with a piping of velvet, or better still, embroidered bands, provid ed the home dressmaker has also the gift of embroidery in her finger tips. The jacket is exceedingly dressy, and loose enough to preserve the crispness of ruffles worn on the waist beneath. The sleeves are the kimono shape, strapped to match the. skirt, three quarter in length and finished with a turn-bank cuff of heavy Irish lace, piped with velvet. The mere suggestion of a vest down the front may be done In hand-embroidery or lace, while both the half-belt and flat collar are of vel vet. The mushroom hat- of tea-green velvet is trimmed simply with shadowy orchids in white, green and amethyst tints. White gloves com plete a most harmonious color scheme. The blouse can be developed In tea green mexsaline, surah, soft-finished taffetas Qr crepe de chine for the Jumper and heavy silk net for the tucker ami undcrsleeves. The collar Is one of the now high-shaped affairs, curving out under the chin, but fitting Into the hair behind the cars and at the nape of the neck. If hand em broidery has been employed on the Jacket, then it must be used on the blouse. Otherwise, braiding In fine soutache, outlined with velvet, may bo used to finish the oblong opening at the neck. Velvet buttons set on the front and a soft velvet girdle is added. To make the skirt and jacket for a woman of medium height will require about , seven yards of material 44 Inches wide, whilo the blouse will re quire at least four yards of silk and a yard and a half of the silk net. incidentally, when a wise woman cannot buy a good all-over lace, pay ing at least tVOO per yard for it. she falls back upon a good net, at $2.00 a yard or even less. A pretty net, set off by lace medallions of good quality, or delicately tinted appliques in con ventional design, sometimes outlined with fine VaL lace or wee ruchings of ribbon, give a far more Frenchy and hand-made effect than cheap all-over lace. There Is no question but that the vogue of real lace Is on the increase. Good Form THE first and most Important step in giving a luncheon Is a careful selection of the date. Make sure that no other large entertainment is planned for the day you choose, so that you may have the first choice of desir able guests. Your luncheon should not conflict with any afternoon reception or card party, as if this happens, some of your guests will hurry from your func tion to the afternoon affair. Tour Invitations should go out at least 10 days-in advance, and. unless the lunch eon is very large and formal, these should consist of brief, cordial notes written on your best paper. These notes should set forth the date of the luncheon and the hour it Is to be served. Formal notes should be written along the fol lowing lines: "Mrs. James Brown Henry requests the pleasure of Mrs. John Greene's company at luncheon, on Thursday, the 2."th of February, at I o'clock." Less formal notes, in cases w here the luncheon is given to more in timate friends, should read: "Dear Mrs. Brown: I should be pleased if you will take lunch with me on Friday, the 17th, at half-past 1. Trusting that you have no previous engagement which will pre ent your coming, I am. Sincerely yours." Answers to such invitations should be sent out within a day or two after their receipt. Tardy replies to luncheon invi tations are inexcusable. The hostess should be dressed at least half an hour before the hour set for the luncheon, and waiting in the parlor to receive the guests. It is exceedingly bad form to keep an expected guest waiting whilo you put the finishing touches to jour toilet, then tear down stairs to greet her full of apologies. Guests should arrive 10 or 15 minutes in advance of the hour, letting nothing Interfere with their timely arrival. Those who live at a great distance must start in ample time, allowing even for delays in car service, etc. Better be too early than to keep a room full of guests waiting. The hostess who has a dining table of highly polished wood may serve lunch eon without a tablecloth, using a hand some centerpiece and doilies at each place. However, many women still ad here to gleaming damask over a heavy "silence cloth." , When the maid announces ' that "Luncheon Is served," the hostess leads .'he way to trie dining-room and stands For several seasons. Imitations have been used in tiresome profusion, but now the well-dressed woman has little lace on her frock, but has it of the best. Tuckers, chemisettes and under sleeves she must have, and if she cannot buy these In a good quality of Irish or filet lace, she makes them from delicate silk net inset with a rare bit of lace, or of hand-embroidered mull or batiste. Filet lace is much embroidered and often the design in HOtSE (iOWX OP COPENHAGK.V BLUB VOILE.. both filet and Irish is picked out with & delicate gold thread. When a woman cannot do hand em broidery she buys . exquisite little French appliques, chiffon flowers or combinations of chiffon and heavy lace which she appliques upon her net or mull so daintily that they assume ail the graces of hand-work. Dyed laees remain very popular for house frocks: and are combined with broadcloth, chiffon cloth, voile and silk. Miss Kthel Barrymore, one of the best dressed women of the stage, is displaying a wonderful . house frock of soft gray-green voile in her new play, "Her Sister." This gown has a very long tunic which is much like ono full length skirt over another, but with a difference. On the left side the tunic or over-skirt is slashed about midway between the knee and walst-line to show a deep flouncing of cluny lace dyed to the same soft gray-green tint. The blouse is draped very" simply across the bust and cut with an oval in Luncheons at her place at the head of the table. The guests find their places by cards bearing their names placed at every cover. At the right of the hostess Is seated the woman to whom she wishes to show the greatest honor, and other guests are generally seated where they will be most congenial. When the guests are seated, the host ess begins to eat first, thus giving the signal to lue guests. The grape fruit should be on the table, a half portion at each place, when the maid announces the luncheon. For the first course served by the maid, begin by serving the guest at the hight hand of the hostess. In the second course, begin with the guest on her left hand. In this way no partiality is shown. One of the greatest, and likewise one of the most frequent mistakes that a hostess makes is that of huurying through the menu. The afternoon . is long. Hospitality is more gracious when deliberate. If the service is slow, do not worry. These intervals between courses offer an opportunity for conversation and repartee that often lag while guests are actually eating. Throughout ' the luncheon it is the duty of the hostess to see that conversation does not lag, and to keep an eye on one and all of her guests, making sure that not one of them Is bored or neglected. Coffee is the last course to be served, and when the hostess is quite sure that all of her guests have finished, she should rise and lead the way into the parlor again. Here the hostess and her guests converse, and it is nice to have a little music if some of the guests play or slug. Guests should stav from a half to a full hour after luncheon, and as they leave, express their pleasure to the hostess. Returning to the actual service of the luncheon, I would say that there is a great reaction against the overdressing of the table, as seen during the past few years. Even with most elaborate din ners and luncheons, the decorations are simple in effect. In the center of the table a large cut glass bowl full of sea sonable flowers, cut glass dishes of nuts, olives, candies, etc., with perhaps four candles, constitute practically all the trimmings seen on the luncheon table of the fashionable woman today It is cdnsidered quite proper, however to carry out one color scheme during the luncheon, though not necessary At this time of the year, with Valentine s day and George Washington's Birthday crowding upon ns, red is a popular color neck, filled In with a tucker of softest embroidered mulle. ' Next to hand-work Jn popularity,, however, comes the use of soutache braid, and here again Miss Barrymore shipes. One of her loveliest house frocks shows a silk voile In Ivory white with a deep braided border of natier blue around the bottom of the skirt, and a deep square stole falling over shoulders and -bust, also brajded. The gown has absolutely no decoration save the deep band and stole, and the braiding is done in a very conven tional pattern. , A very good design is here shown for a house gown of Copenhagen blue voile with cream net underblouse. The skirt is bordered with - three bands, the mid dle band being strapped vertically with soutache braid. The overblouse is laid in fine tucks with an oval yoke marked off by soutache, which appears also on the half-kimono sleeve. The braiding here shown Is very simple, but it can be elaborated according to the time and ability of the home dress maker. . A skirt of this sort cut on a circular model should have a slight train for house -wear, and the costume will require 10 yards of 44 inch ma terial. .. If the centerpiece is of lalce, line it with red silk, which will show enough of the color to give a pretty effect. Then have red roses or carnations in. the bowl, red cards at each place with the name of the guest thereon,- with red shades on the candles. But do not have red rib bons dangling from the chandelier, a sash across the table and other garnish trimmings. Believe me, all this Is ex ceedingly bad form. Guests who have attended a luncheon should call upon their hostess within two weeks. If sickness or other trou bles should prevent the making of the call within that time, a note to that effect should be sent Ambitious and Energetic IN our Nation's capital city lives a little boy who, judging by present indications. Is bound to make his mark in the world. His mother Is not burdened with riches, and she was therefore compelled to refuse him a nickel, not long since, which he had asked for in order to buy a tablet of paper. "I'm sorry, son, hut I have only one penny left from marketing, and no more In the house." "Well, give me that, please, mamma," he urged, "and I'll go earn the rest." "What can my little boy do to earn money on the street? I am afraid you will get hurt, or into mischief." " "Deed I won't, mamma; I'll be real careful, and be a good boy, too; where's my . wooden snow shovel?"' He went after it and came back to ask: "You don't care If I shovel snow, do you?" "No, if you don't overwork. Don't attempt too much, and do your work well." "All right; good-by." At the first promising heap of snow in front of a door he rang the bell and asked permission to remove the snow. But the cook shook her head: "No use to ask the madam, she wouldn't have babies to shovel her snow; move on." His second request received the same answer; but, undaunted, he walked on, and, oh, joy! at the next house he found the mistress' herself just return ing from a walk. "Good morning, lady," and his hand flew to his cap. ' "May I shovel your snow, please?" ' . . "You! Why, you're too little." His face lengthened as he replied: "I'm 7 years old, and 'deed I can shovel some of it, and do good work, too." . ' - "I believe you are quite a little man," the lady replied, admiring his eager ness, 'but will you tell me why you are so anxious' for . work? Are you candy hungry?" "No, ma'am, at least I do. like candy, but I'm in the $hird grade and we have to write so many lessons it just takes lots of paper. I asked mamma for the money to buy some; but she didn't have it; poor mamma never has any spare change time she buys pur dinners and clothes. She felt real sorry about It, too, but I told her never mind, I could earn it," and. he drew himself up proudly. "I'm real strong and big for my size, and if I don't have it I'll run behind in my " lessons, - and I couldn't do that not if my ringers froze," and he cast a rueful glance at his red hands. "You're a brave little fellow! I have a pair of mittens my boy has out grown, also a pair of rubber boots. I'll get theni for you. Then you can shovel until you are tired. - After that come in and get warm, and I will pay you." Could any city contain a boy more proud than this one? Toothsome Cakes for Juvenile Guests HAVE what you will for refreshments at a children's party, but the cakes, with their many-hiied Icings, invariably crown the feast. As the Icing is so im portant, prepare all your cakes for this delicious covering, then make a boiled Icing, dividing it into portions, ,to be colored brown with chocolate, pink with carmine, green with strong spinach juice (or, better still, the harmless- vegetable dye which you can secure at any first class drug or grocery store), yellow with orange juice and grated rind. An excel lent recipo for boiled Icing is this: Boil a pint of granulated sugar with half a pint of water until It spins a thread. Have ready the whites of two eggs' beaten very stiff, and add the boiled sugar slowly stirring and beating, until it is thick and creamy. Ice the cakes be fore the mixture is cold. Boiled , icing is less sickening and sweetish than that made from pulverized sugar, ice water and white of egg. - Tiny- Pound (tfl An - excellent cake mixture which can be baked in one big sheet, then cut into fancy shapes and iced Is this: - Cream together three fourths of a cup of butter and one of granulated sugar. Add four eggs, beating them in one at a time, one cup of flour In which one teaspoonful of baking pow der has been sifted, a dash of salt and preferred flavoring. Chocolate C'nokleai Melt one clip of grated chocolate. Beat together ono small cup of butter and two of sugar until creamy. Add the yolks and whites of four eggs beaten together, then the melted chocolate and half a teaspoonful of vanilla. Lastly stir in three cups of sifted flour with one teaspoon of baking powder. Roll thin and bake in a quick oven. Hickory fiat Cakes t Have ready one cup of hickory nuts, chopped very fine. Mix together one cirp - of brown sugar, one tablespoonful of butter, one egg, two tablespoonfuls of flour, a pinch of salt and the nut meats. Drop a teaspoonful at a time on buttered tins and bake a' rich brown, but be careful not to burn. Dolly Varden Caket This contrast in layers always pleases children. Have ready one cup of . chopped and seeded raisins, one-half . cup of . currants, one small piece of citron, chopped, one tea spoonful each of cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg, and ono tablespoonful of mo lasses. Stand aside -until needed. Beat to a cream two cups of sugar with two thirds of a cup of butter. Add slowly one cup of sweet milk, the yolks of three BLOUSE OF LIGHT-WEIGHT BROAD CLOTH. eggs beaten light, three cups of flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of lemon extract, and the whites of three eggs beaten stiff. Divide this batter Into two portions, and bake half of it in two square layer tins. To the other half add the molosses and fruits mentioned above' and bake in same sized, tins. Put the cake together with white and dark layers alternating, and use boiled frosting. Some Things jm TOUR of the smart shops is like looking Into Fashion's crystal,- for "already new goods are on exhibition and the Summer styles practically settled. New fabrics are here, and all so differ ent from last season that it is a joy In- SEMI-TAILORED COSTUME OF BROADCLOTH. deed to wander from one shop to another, even though spending1 money is not a possibility so soon-after Christmas. -However, she who would have the pick of Summer fabrics Is buying now. Last Spring and Summer the up-to-date girl clung to -white clothes, with a touch of color in ribbons only. This year she will be seen dressed In almost garish col- orlngs strips, large broken plaids, flow ered mulls and combinations of colored embroidery. White mull gowns are al most without exception made with col ored borders. A 'charming piece of goods seen was a white mull, 45 inches wide. At the bottom was a six-inch hem of light blue mull, and above the blue hem was worked a band of tiny pink roses. It was not cheap, but beautiful. Most of the wash goods re?ently im- Seen in Fashion's Crystal Ball ported have a peculiar weave more like a cotton voile than anything offered last year. They come under many names, cotton grenadine, ' cotton veiling, wash marquisettes, etc. There seems to be no place for the stiff.uncompromisir.g' fciiig- hams and percales, once "so dear to the heart. Foulards for Spring are seen in strides more than in figures. The ever popular polka dot is here, of course, and alwa.ys carries a great deal of style with it. The new dots are rather large, however, about the size of a 5-cent piece. Stripes are likewise rather wide about half an inch. THE woman with wrinkles or freckles always imagines that she has a corner on complexion ills, but In reality the woman who suffers doubly la she who has an oily skin with enlarged pores. Wrinkles may offend the eye, but they do not entail physical discomfort. A superabundance of oil not only makes the face look shiny and ungroomed, despite the most vigorous use of powder, but the woman who has this particular com plexion defect actually suffers in a physi cal way. The general "stickiness" and oiliness of the skin is unpleasant to her own touch, and she rarely, if ever, en Joys the sense of a cool, clean face. Sometimes this oil spreads over the face like a mask or coating. The woman with an oily skin realizes that the .very daintiness of her house gown makes her face look the worse by contrast, and she ia very apt to "aggra vate her defect by abusing the powder rag. The oily skin demands a careful diet. Fruits, salads and fresh vegetables must be substituted for pastry, sweets, made dishes and many of the meats, like pork and veal, which encourage the secretion of oil in the glands. The external treatment of an oily skin demands, first and foremost, the constant use of hot water and a flesh brush. The pores must not be allowed to secrete the sebacious matter which causes black heads, and only the flesh brush will prevent this. Cold water Is worse than useless on an oily skin. A few drops of tincture of benzoin added to a basin of hot water should be used night and morning, and Instead of soap, try almond meal sifted Into the. water from a jar with a per forated top. The formula for this pre pared almond meal as a substitute for soap has been given in these columns before, but I will be glad to furnish It to individual readers upon the receipt of a self-addressed and stamped envelope. It Is an article now found on the wash stand of every well-groomed woman, and possesses the virtue of purity, so essential in securing ,a good complexion. Highly scenteQ soaps which bite the tongue are dangerous to any skin. This tasting of the soap with the tip of the tongue is a sure test of a. preponderance of alkali, which is dangerous- to even- an oily skin. Massage with cold cream is not good for an oily skin. Better far to use hot water and alcohol--half and half. Cu cumber milk, which contains a very small proportion of almond oil, is one of the best lotions for the. oily skin, and should be used after the massage with alcohol. This is another formula frequent ly given in this column, but I will be glad to furnish a copy of it on receipt of the customary stamped and self-addressed envelope. Where the skin has a tendency to be both oily and yellow, the following toilet water should be added to the hot water in cleansing the face. Use a spoonful to a basin of warm water: Tincture of - benzoin, one ounce; tinc ture of musk, two drachms; tincture of ambergris, four drachms; rectified spirits, five ounces; orange flower water, one and three-fourth pints. Add the tinctures to Cleansing of Clogged Skins although some of the gray and White silks are seen in "pin stripes"' and give forth rather a silvery sheen .that is ex ceedingly pretty. The colorings of these foulards are soft the glaring blues and pinks being a thing of the past. I almost fear to say it, yet. brown Is still to be seen, and on good authority I state that it is here for another year at least. The smartest models in foulards are made up in soft brown and white silks, trimmed with just a little Irish or filet lace and if they are the right khaile of brown they are charming. The risht shade is not a red brown. It is i-ather the coppery or golden tint that in certain lights takes on a glow of the rose. The mushroom hat will not he with us for another season. Let us all give thanfcs for tills one blessing. In the place of the1 butterbowl shapes that fell around our' faces and cast unbecoming shadows ovcrj our .cheeks, we are to have hats built i very high at the left side. Large hatsi these, with much trimming, but all ofl them raised a goodly bit, with soft feath-l ers and bows next to the hair. In toques) we have little shapes that fit closely to' the huir, flat wings on either side andl brilliant buckles to fasten on each wing. These latter hats to be worn with the tailor costume. The newest evening clothes seem to bo! made of dark materials mado over white! silk slips. Brown chiffon, tea-green mar-j quisette. black net. all should bo made over white for evening. And let me re-j mind my reatlers that the reason these glaring stripes have come in and can ho I successfully worn this year is that women I have no hips.' This may seem a swerj-1 ing assertion, but it is the truth. I grant! that they used to have them, -but not so 1 now. If you have. hips, you must get rid' of them. The proper corset will hclpr you more than anything, but you must 1 realize that to wear broad stripes anil large dots you must have a supple, wll-' lowy figure. . ; The ornate shirt waist has given way I to one of great simplicity, with just a1 little hand-cmLroidcry down the front, and about the cuffs. Fine materials are used, but the waist with 20 yards of in sertion set in it at almost as many an gles, is out of .date. In place, of that 20 yards of cheap lace costing about $i wo see a very sheer lawn waist with a "V" yoke of real Irish lace that cost tl. Veils are still dotted, and most of tlicm are edged with tiny velvet ribbon. White gloves will be worn with all smart, dressy costumes, and brown and tans for rougher street wear. MARY DEAN. Creeping Blanket for Babies. If baby is just beginning to creep get the whole family at work on a bright creeping blanket for him. Buy a bis sheet of cream-colored blanket material of firm consistency so that it lies as flat as a rug. Embroider with a scattering of gay-colored worsted animals and birds. Birds and animals are drawn on any scale and aro placed at generous dis tances apart to Invite a creep from baby from one to the other. If one hasn't time to embroider, the animals may be cut from bright-colored flannels, and sewed on. A center space Is left for baby's nam in easy flowing script. The animals should be In the fast, brightly contrasting worsted colors that endear toys to baby's heart, for, of course, the bli-nket neuds many cleanings. The delight babies take In these blank ets justifies the work upon them. They pat and rub the vlvid-hued animals with absorbed interest or crows of glee. "The blanket has saved me no end of efforts," says a mother. "It always de lights baby and keeps her busy for an hour at a time when I can get a deal of mending done while she is patting and scolding her embroidered pets." the spirits, then mix them with the per fumed water. This Is cooling and re freshing to the skin, acting like a tonic. If the perfumes are of the best and purest quality, and they should be, the lotion will have a milky appearance. Many women employed in offices and stores write to me regarding the . an noyance which they suffer during work ing hours because they have no means of cleansing the oily pores. For these wom en I would suggest cleansing the face' occasionally .with the following lotion, i which can be kept in the desk In a small j bottle and applied with antiseptic gauze:: Pulverized borax, one ounce; pure gly- cerine, two ounces; camphor water (not' spirits of camphor), two quarts. . ' Coarse powders, particularly talcum: powders, are bad for the oily skin. Far better is a liquid white, formula for which! is given herewith: i Pure oxide of- zinc, one ounce; glycer ine, one drachm; rosewater, four ounces; essence of rose, 15 drops. Sift the zinc, dissolving it In Just enough of the rosewater to cover it, then add the glycerine, next the remainder of the rosewater. Shake well and apply with a piece of antiseptic gauze. The face must be well wiped oft before It dries,, or It will be streaked. Veils Bad for Eyes. Woman and her oculist are still "on the outs" on the subject of veil wearing.' "My hair Is a sight without a veil," says the former. "Your eyes will soon be without sight with one," growls back the vision special ist. As a rule the last word is with the woman. , Her veil she will have, so the only thing is to try to educate her into the least injurious kind. White and red veils are trying to the eyes, so are dotted designs and heavy meshed nets. Blue and green veils, if the least be coming, are also the least harmful to the eyes; next to these comes brown. Fancy Hose Protection. The worst of fancy hose is that they tear out at the top where the hose sup porters grip them. This may be avoided even with the finest silk and lisle thread hose by sewing two pieces of stout ribbon about two inches square to the hem of each stock ing, one on either side. The strain is then no longer on the hose, but on tho; ribbon, into which are fastened the clasps of the supporters. The beauty of this simple device is that one can draw one's hose up as tight as one wishes and feel perfectly safe from "runs." which ruin so many fine stockings. Tape may be mod instead of ribbon on the plainer hose.