6
THE SUNDAY OREGONIAX. PORTLAND, JANUARY . 1908.
Military Effect in Mid-Winter Suits
WITH the advancing season, mili
tary effects in women's raiment
are more and more pronounced.
There are various reasons for this.
First, the Louis coat. This elegant gar
ment, designed especially for reception
and calling costumes, and made from
the most supple of velvets and cloths,
with brocaded or embroidered or braided
vest, lace jabot and feather-laden hat, is
quite beyond the purse and the needs
of the average American woman. Yet
its lines are so becoming, it gives such
au air of distinction to the woman of
even ordinary ligure, that the American
woman of moderate means insisted upon
having it in a modified form, better
suited to church going, simpler calls and
even ordinary street wear.
Wherefore the pattern-makers evolved
a coat of medium length, rather more
tight fitting than the Louis coat pure
and simple, with a snug vest, high collar,
sleeves either full length or three-quarter,
and much soutache braid. Some
times the coat is fitted closely to the
figure, demanding the very perfection of
the tailor's art. Again It is semi-fitting,
and In the case of velvet, it is almost as
loose as a kimono coat.
In the case of the tight-fitting coat,
the vest is narrow and almost as long
as the coat proper, but almost invari
ably of a "MUrasting color. A stunning
rxdei in this line was in a rich Au
tumnal brown, heavily braided in self
tone, and a vest of yellowish-ecru suede.
Another model was In sage-green cloth,
with a vest of rich cream-white broad
cloth, braided in sage-green soutache. '
The skirts for wear with these tailored
military coats are generally pleated and
trimmed around the bottom with gradu
ated bands of braid: With the more
dressy coats, loose fitting and three
quarter sleeves, the circular skirt, with
much fine braiding, is the correct combi
nation. With all the tailored coats along mili
tary lines, the very high straight collar
appears, and this Is trimmed heavily
with soutache braid. In some of the
fancy braids a touch of gold appears
and many buttons, either all-gilt or en
ameled with a touch of gilt, appear.
The design showing the tight-fitting,
three-quarter military jacket was devel
oped in a Copenhagen blue broadcloth,
with a vest of ivory broadcloth braided
with the Copenhagen blue and silver, a
harming combination. Tills makes a
distinctly tailored effect, but for dressy
wear It can be developed in black velvet,
the sleeves changed to three-quarter ki
mono design, witli the vest of brocaded
Ilk, showing delicate pink, blue and yel
low roses of a shadowy design, and a
jabot of lace to match the flounces in the
sleeves.
A shorter coat is also shown with a
derided military front, a high military
collar and less of the T.ouis effect. This
Is semi-lltting and the generally loose
yet smart lines are improved by over
laying all seams with flat braid. The
sleeves are the plain coat design, and
the entire garment one that can be de
veloped at home. It is particularly
suited to the new striped and checked
broadcloths and English worsteds with
flat applications of braid, and, to com
plete the military effect, a couple of
heavy frogs down the front. Fancy
sleeves are entirely out of place on such
a coat, which can be made from 24
yards of material 44 inches wide.
Incidentally, the woman who dons the
military coat must be discreet in select
ing the hat to be worn with it. Float
ing plumes, flowers In Winter colorings,
fluttering ends of any sort, are distinct
ly out of place, the correct combination
being a felt hat on stiff lines with trim
ming of wings, quills or coque feathers.
For the girl of medium height, the coque
pompom, six or seven Inches high, forms
an excellent trimming on a hat to be
worn with a military coat.
For Miss Sixteen the military jacket
Is almost ideal, as it hides every angle.
A very smart design is snown in a hip
length military jacket, with braid in
two widths, wide and narrow. This
covers both side and back seams and t!ie
front and lower edges of the coat. In
the two widths it would set off most
fetrhingly any of the pleated skirts
which are worn by young girls this sea
son. The ruffs and collar on this Jacket
are distinctly military. Frogs may be
added, though for ordinary wear the
average giri would rather they were
omitted. A hat decked simply with
broad, stiff bows of taffeta ribbon and a
largo buckle or quill, should be worn
with this jacket, while dogskin gloves
are a better combination than the finer,
softer kids.
The last illustration shows R fanry
vest which ran bo used to make over
last year's coat. This means cutting
over a straight, semi-fitting, hip-length
or three-quarter coat, facing the front
pieces bark with silk or satin, finishing
the front edges with flat braid and wear
ing the coat over the vest. The double
vested or single-breasted style may ' be
selected, and if the outer coat is plain
cloth, then the vest may be selected,
and if the outer coat is plain cloth, then
the vest may be of figured or braided
cloth. Vice versa, a fancy outer coat,
siirh as check or stripe, demands the
plain vest. Buttons art an important
feature of any vest, and should be se
lected with care. It pays to put a lit
tle extra money in these, nit they set
off tho little garment as nothing else
will.
The new long storm coats with fnr
llnlng or fur collars and turn-back cuffs
The Right and the Wrong
HUNDREDS of women mar a charm
ing costume by the addition of an
inappropriats belt or girdle. A belt
that does not harmonize with a gown, a
girdle that clashes in color, no matter
how exquisite the material, will spoil the
handsomest costume that any woman
ever wore. This "hurry-up" age In which
we live Is largely responsible for such
discordant combinations, against which
every woman should light.
With a filllor-made suit consisting of
skirt and jacket, there is only one proper
belt If you wish your jacket to set well
and your entire costume to look right.
That belt, made of a piece of the goods.
Is not over an inch in width and is
stitched all around until the entire belt
Is covered with stitching. This belt
should be tacked on the back of the skirt
and be fastened in front with a tiny hook
and eye. It Is always ready, and with
out exception is the one and only ap
propriate belt to wear with a stiff tai
lored dress.
Take, for instance, a brown broadcloth
suit, such as is now so much worn.
With this is worn either a brown silk
blouse or one of net. Now picture to
yourself two women one with a light
blue crushed girdle, shirred in front and
boned in the back. Of course, this cannot
be fastened to the skirt, so it is pinned
down in the back with a large gilt pin
and is always riding up in front. Look
TIGHT FITTING THREE-QUARTER Mill TART JACKET.
nearly all show a military touch In the
frogs used for the finish. Military lines
are also shown on some house dresses,
and many of the sheath-like boleros
and jackets worn over house frocks are
heavily braided.
The skirt cut four inches from the
at the other woman, with her neatly
stitched belt of brown cloth sewed on
the skirt and fastened trimly in front.
No pins are necessary, and . the belt
seems to be part of the skirt. Which
woman are you?
Leather belts and elastic belts of vari
ous colors are still seen in the shops;
hence, women must be still wearing them,
bitt. believe me, nothing looks worse than
a soiled white leather belt on a colored
dress. A black leather belt on a colored
dress is not quite so bad, but . should
never be worn with anything except a
black skirt. A brown leather belt, worn
with a white shirt waist and black
walking skirt, is a combination often
seen. There Is no excuse for such a dis
figuring combination. Brown belts with
brown skirts; black belts with blac'.t
skirts; light blue girdles with light blue
dresses this is the rule which leads to
artistic effect in frocks.
The beautiful Dresden ribbons which
are flooding the counters are bewildering
In their exquisite coloring, and the most
fashionable dressmakers are using them
for girdles and bows. But you must se
lect a Dresden ribbon .that harmonizes
In coloring with your gown. A ribbon
with a black satin edge with blue flowers
In the center cannot be worn on a pink
evening gown; the dress fabric must be
blue, or else the tones of the ribbon pink.
Brown is the color par excellence for
gowns this season and the Dresden rib
bons come in gorgeous shade of brown.
ground is worn almost exclusively with
the severe military jacket by younger
women, and this means smartly-built
if somewhat heavy shoes, of which the
tans, in shades varying from yellowish
to almost brown,, lead.
MARY DEAN.
Belt to Wear
tan and biscuit coloring to combine with
the gowns. Years ago we used to think
that all brown dresses should be relieved
with a touch of color, generally pink or
blue. Not so today. All trimmings.
girdles and belts must be of blending
tones, with perhaps a touch of gilt braid
to relieve them.
Many women, and almost all young
girls, wear lingerie dresses in the house
all winter. Do not mar one of these
dainty gowns with a soiled belt of faded
ribbon. The most favored way of join
ing belt, waist and skirt is to use a piece
of insertion at the waisC line, sewing
waist and skirt onto it. Sash ribbons
around the waist line of lingerie dresses
are seldom seen on the well-dressed wo
man. Occasionally a bow Is worn at the
back or at one side, but not around the
waist.
So, I say once more to you. be careful
and wear the right belt with the right
dress, and with every skirt that you
have made', have also a little belt of the
same material. Else match it exactly in
a plain ribbon of heavy texture, which is
the next best thing. For your evening
gowns, have your girdles of soft silk or
Dresden ribbon, always harmonizing with
the dress itself.
Bracelet Bass.
'The bracelet bag is the newest thing
In wrist bags. Its handles give it its
name.
Th ara two rings of silver or &Uv
gilt big enough to slip easily over the
most heavily gloved hand. To these han
dles the sides of a flat full pocket in
brocade or soft leather are attached.
. For all the models the stem of the
bracelet handles is round, but the stem
varies In thickness and ornamentation.
Practically all the different styles of
round stem bangle, bracelets appear in
these handles, from the plain to the most
ornate. Some of the more elaborate
handles are studded with semi-precious
Btones.
An effective model has heavy handles
in chased silver gilt set with amethysts.
The bag is made of purple leather in
smooth finish. Another style has brace
lets in frosted silver set with moon
stones. The bag is of brocade in, silvery
gray.
Bracelet bags come In practical dark
colors for everyday use as well as in
delicate hues for festal occasions.
The bag is opened by simply drawing
tho bracelets apart. The inside of the
bag is lined with silk.
A silk covered pocketbook with snap
clasp in metal to match the bracelet
handles runs across the bag. dividing it
Into two pockets. Little accessories, such
as toilet mirror, powder box, memoranda
card, come to match the bags.
The handsomer bracelet bags cost from
J30 to JCO.
EGG RECIPE
mf EAT prices have soared so high that
1 1 few people are serving It more than
once a day, and that Is generally for din
ner. Many families, however, like rather
a heaVty breakfast, and the plain boiled
cr fried egg soon palls on the early
morning appetite. Here are some sug
gestions for cooking eggs tastefully:
Sciambled Eggs With Celery Take
four, or five pieces of crisp white celery,
cut into small dice, wash and drain.
Place in a saucepan with a pint of cold
water, salt well and boll for twenty
minutes. Remove from the fire and drain
through colander. Break six or eight
eggs in a bowl, season with salt and
pepper and add a scant half cup of milk.
Beat this well together. Heat a table
spoon of butter in a saucepan, drop in
the eggs and celery, thoroughly mix with
a wooden spoon and cook for five or six
minutes. Serve on a hot platter, gar
nished with celery tips.
Omelette With Sausages Take six or
eight fresh eggs and separate yolks and
whites. Add to the yolks a scant half
cup of milk, salt and pepper, beat well
together and then beat the whites toKa
stiff froth. Cut four skinned sausages
into quarter-inch pieces, place in a fry
ing pan with a tablespoon of butter and
fry for five minutes, tossing them occa
sionally. Add half a teaspoon of finely
chopped parsley. Mix whites and yolks
together, pour over the sausages, and
mix for a moment. When brown, fold
over half way. Turn on a hot dish and
serve.
To Bo Fresh and Rosy.
A woman doctor out in Iowa declares
that appendicitis would die a natural
death if people would freely partake of
olive oil.
According to the fcmlnne apostle of
healing, olive oil is a regular jack of
all trades It aids digestion, builds tis
sue, renovates nerves and does a gen
eral purifying and healing business.
.."The skeleton frame Calls for it," she
declares: "the starved nerves demand
It. the sluggish blood stream needs a
lubricant, the pale cheeks need a rosy
hue, the dead scalp calls for new life,
and all these can be obtained by Intro
ducing pure olive oil into the daily ra
tions. "A pint or more a week with food
may be used with nothing but good re
sults. Not only make your salad dress
ing almost entirely of . oil, but put It
Into everything you eat. Then as an
extra, take a dessert spoonful before
every meal.
"If you find it hard to take It clear
you can add lemon or other fruit juices,
milk or salt But after a while you
will find it palatable when taken quite
clear.
"How many drawn, wrinkled, drled
up faces we see which are " all the
ghastlier for the wretched attempt at
an occasional smile. They need oil.
Try It as an article of diet and see the
freshness return to such faces.
"But do not expect the miracle of an
immediate fresh face. You have been
drying up for years and it will require
months to complete the lubricating;
process."
Let People Know About It.
Chicago Record-Herald.
If you have done a splendid thing
Get on the roof and shout It:
Don't fail to make the welkin ring.
Let people know about It;
Don't merely sit around and wait
For other men to sound your praise;
They'll never know that you are great
Unless the hubbub which you raise
Convinces those wbo doubt It
If yoa have talent don't neglect
To draw attention to it;
Don't wait in silence and expect
That some one else will do It;
Get out and boast; a few may say
That you are o'ersupplled with gall.
But don't forget that even they
Will, talking of you. after all.
."C ' utfcn t J,rAul f
Etiquette of
THIS is the season of the year when
afternoon entertainments for women
are at their height. They are of
two distinct classes, formal and infor
mal. All of us are human enough really
to prefer the latter, yet few of us de
cline invitations to the former. The
woman who sits at home and mopes,
complaining to her husband at night that
she is bored and lonely, has only herself
to blame.' Let her ask a half dozen
friends in for the afternoon to play cards
or to make clothes for some hospital
anything to occupy their hands while
their tongues are busy. Then let her
serve a cup of rich chocolate, or even tea,
with dainty sandwiches. She will find
that her friends had such a good time
that they, in turn, will have a little
MILITARY COAT AND COAT WITH HIGH MILITARY COLLAR-
1
"afternoon," and thus a jolly if informal
circle will result.
When you give an informal affair your
Invitations should be simple little notes
written in the first person, or given over
the telephone, or delivered personally if
you happen to meet a friend in the street.
An hour should always be set for -the af
fair, no matter how informal. The Win
ter ' afternoons are short, so ask your
guests to come at half-past two. They,
of course, will be expected to remove
their hats and coats at these little affairs.
Double and Single-Breasted Vests.
If the guest, do not sit all afternoon with
your hat on, saying to your hostess that
you did not have time to comb your hair.
Wear a neat little shirtwaist or simple
dress, have your hands well manicured
and your hair neatly combed.
If you are the hostess at such an in
formal gathering, be quite sure you do
not invite two women who are not friend
ly. At a large gathering this would not
matter much, but in a room where there
are only five or ten people, the situation
would be most embarrassing to all the
guests, as well as yourself, thus putting
a damper on an otherwise pleasant after
noon. Without doubt, one of the greatest
secrets of a successful hostess is her
ability to get the right people together.
A question that has always been more
or less under discussion is whether or
not you owe your hostess a call after an
informal affair an afternoon at cards, a
tea, etc I think no definite answer has
yet been given, but it Is well to be on
the safe side and drop in on your friend
Informally some morning or early after
noon. Do not make a fashionable call,
dressed in your most gorgeous raiment,
but pay her a call in the same informal
spirit as the occasion was given.
With formal receptions and large after
noon teas, the rules are quite different.
Although men are invited to these festivi
ties, they do not go in anything like th-
Afternoon Entertainment
numbers that the women do. Most men
have to be about their business while
their wives are gossiping over their tea
and wafers. A married woman should
leave her husband's card when she at
tends such a function. A tray for this
purpose is generally found in the hall or
some convenient place.
You do not remove either your hat or
your gloves at a formal afternoon tea.
If your wraps are heavy, you can take
them off in a room provided for that
purpose. Do not enter the parlor with a
veil over your face. If you have hand
some furs, the neckpiece you can keep
on, but a muff Is always a burden in a
room, where you are called upon to shake
hands and to hold a plate while you eat.
It should be left in the dressing-room
with your veil and wraps. The muff is
responsible for more accidents in the tea
room than any other article of .apparel.
Often a women trying to manipulate a
fork and hold a plate and ft muff at the
same time is so overburdened that some
thing is bound to be spilled.
At formal teas and receptions you
should stay only a short time. Some
times a hundred or more invitations
have been' sent out, the hostess knowing
that only a few women will be present
at a time. If you meet several friends
and want to chat with them a few mo
ments, you should not let that chat run
into a visit. Even when you know the
hostess very well, half an hour -is long
enough to stay at any formal function
of this sort.
Here, again, the question arises, "Do I
owe that woman a call?" And again my
answer is as before. Drop in some after-
' ' '
Softening Angles and Curves
IT seems almost Inconsistent in this
season, when the hipless woman Is
In high favor, to write an article
for women who long for curves. There
are many women, notably dressmakers,
who will protest that no woman de
sires to possess curves since the Louis
coat and the Paquin sheath-like skirt
are in vogue. But the fact remains
that hundreds of women all over the
country do write to me bewailing their
angles and the seeming Impossibility
of covering them with firm, curving
flesh.
The most common causes of thinness
unattractive thinness, not slenderness
are indigestion or malassimllation of
food.-and extreme nervousness or the
habit of worrying. The woman who
eats, but does not secure any strength
from her food, will never take on any
flesh. This means tnat a diet should
be ordered by the family physician
and some special tonic or appetizer
given. A successful French beauty doc
tor advises this appetizer for the nerv
ous, thin, fussy woman:
Tincture of star-anise, 3 grams; tinc
ture of ruhbarb, 2 grams; tincture of
dux vomica, 3 grams.
Take six to ten drops in a spoonful
of water just before meals.
If it Is a case of nervousness and
worry, the faculty of taking every
thing in the hardestvay and fretting
about the unavoidable thing, then no
tonic, no appetizer, no cream or emol
lient or skin food can work a cure.
The cure lies within the mind of the
woman. She must stop fussing and
worrying.
For a general skin food, to be used
to feed either flabby skin or actual hol
lows, there is nothing better than this:
Tannin, grain; lanoline, 80 grams;
oil of sweet almonds, 20 grams.
To get best results from this mas
sage cream, take a warm bath and,
when the pores are open, rub the
cream In wherever hollows are found.
If only the breasts have turned
flabby or atrophied, the flesh can be
fed externally with the above lotion
and then the patient may take inter
nally the following potion:
Liquid extract of galega (goatsrue),
10 grams; lacto-phosphate of lime, 10
grams; tincture of fennel, 10 grains;
simple syrup, 400 grams.
This can be prepared by any -druggist.
It is to be taken Interally, two
soupspoonsful with water before each
meal. Keep the bowels open and drink
extract of malt or ale with your meals
Instead of water.
A very simple flesh food, especially
gortfa for the woman whose skin is dry
andtiarsh. a condition which often ex
ists in connection with extreme thin
ness, is this:
Fresh lard, 100 grams; alcohol (SO
per cent), 20 grams; essence of rose
mary, 11 drops; essence of bergamot, 11
drops.
These Ingredients can be purchased
at any drugstore. Be Bure that the
lard is pure. Melt In a double boiler
and add a tiny bit of gum camphor.
Strain, and beat Into this the alcohol.
noon and pay her a short call, leaving
your own and your husband's card.
Card parties are sometimes given with
great .formality-. This is often done as a
means of returning many social obliga
tions at one time. Invitations to surh an
affair should be sent out two weeks in
advance; they should be either written
in a formal manner or engraved cards, if
you can afford them. The hour should
be set. At a card party of this character
ladies do not remove their hats, but, of
course, must take off their wraps and
gloves. Refreshments are served at the
finish of the game, at the individual ta
bles where the guests are seated.
The giving of booby prizes has been
discontinued, and a third prizo generally
given instead. Personal articles are now
given to women as prizes at afternoon
gatherings silk stockings, feather boas,
gloves, etc. Such prizes are acceptable
to either the single girl or married
woman, while bric-a-brac, table linen,
etc., are often of the "not wanted" class
of prizes.
There is no question as to whether you
owe this hostess a call or not. The
answer is most emphatically "yes," and
it should bo paid within two weeks after
the card party. As your husband was
not Invited to the affair, you need not
leave his card. But the call must be
made promptly and not put off from day
to day, until, when you do call, your
whole time is spent in explaining why
you have not called before.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
Fads and Fancies of AVomen.
Fancy color effects In shoes for day
wear are gaining in popularity.
Banana brown- and cinnamon form a
favored combination of coloring in many
costumes.
Patent leather shoes are being worn
this season, decorated with little folded
bows of leather.
A trig little red English morocco bag
is fitted with folding opera glasses, pow
der puff, and mirror.
An applied cloak tuck, three inches .
wide, furnishes a tunic effect on many of
the longcloth skirts.
For handsome gowns matrons are wear
ing black or dark, rich colored silks,
brocaded in velvet.
Lovely are the evening bags of white
Irish crochet, lined with white silk and
mounted in gold frames
Some of the Winter muffs are made of
tippet pieces, laid on flatly and hanging
like a flap.
. One of the most striking gowns seen
at a recent Wedding was of bottle green
satin trimmed with green lace and yel
low panne.
A chic departure in theater waists is
the separate waist in chiffon, generally
black, and worn over a pale colored or
white foundation.
When the Frenchwoman wants her de
collete gown for restaurant or theater
wear she add3 a transparent gufmpe ol
white tulle and a tiny cravat of fur.
A new fad is the evening cloak of tho
same color of the gown, especially to
wear at little theater and restaurant
functions.
The return of the tight skirt is perhaps
the harbinger of, tight sleeves and waists
that have been banished so long, to
say nothing of the waistline and its nat
ural position.
Chic to the limit is one of the rolling
brim mousquetaire hats of black velvet,
faced with khaki colored satin and swept
by khaki plumes, caught by a yellow
leather covered buckle.
The new sleeve, called the "step lad
der," is an outgrowth of the kimono
Bleeve. and consists of a succession of
deep folds, one over the other, narrow
ing in as they reach below the elbow.
Serges aire going into tailor-mades.
With the serge there is always apt to ar
rive the vogue for velvet trimmings, or
at least for velvet In collar and cuffs,
and this is no exception tfiis Fall. ,
and Just before the cream hardens or
congeals, add the essences.
Massage the skin with this every
day, doing the work slowly, firmly and
conscientiously. Spasmodic treatment
of fcither"too much flesh or a shortage
In flesh will secure no 'results what
ever. Best of all for the thin woman are
.the deep breathing exercises so often
mentioned in these columns. I will be
glad to send these exerciss, together
with any advico for individual cases of
thinness, on receipt of a stamped and
addressed envelope.
KATHERINE MORTON.
Exgr Recipe.
Eggs with Rice. Plunge a quarter
of a cup of rice Into a pint of boiling
water and cook for thirty minutes,
thoroughly drain, then place In a bak
ing dish and add a scant cup of cream
or rich milk, a tablespoon of butter, a
saltspr.on of salt, cayenne pepper and
grated nutmeg. A dash of curry pow
der is liked by some, but can b'e added
or omitted at will. Mix this well to
gether, let come to a boil, then crack
over it eight or ten eggs, set In oven
for ten minutes, remove and serve.
The Laborer and His Hire.
Catholic Standard and Times.
Hallo! Slgnor. I atn't see you
For manny, manny day.
I wondra moocha w'at you do-
All time you was away.
All deesa seexa mont' or more
Dot you are cod' from home.
I spose you went out West. Stgnor k
Eh? No? You was een Rome?
An' Parees, too? Wal, wal, my fraud.
Wat Joy you musta feel .
To see all done so granda land
Where you have been. But steel
Tou musta worka, longa while t
For swa da mon' to go.
Eh? Deal een stocks ees mak your pile?
Excuse! I deed not know.
X weesh dat dere was soocha treep
For Dagoman like me;
Ees manny now dat taka sheep
For home een Eetaly
Eh ? w'at ees dat ? You say decs men
Are mean as dirt een street
For com' an' maka mon' an' den
To run back home weeth eet?
I am su'prlse weeth you, Hignor.
For hear you talk like dees.
Da mon we gat by workin for
We do weeth as we pleas.
You say dey leave no theeng bayhlnd
For deesa mon dey mak' :
Escuse, Slgnor. but you weell find
Dey pay for all dey tak.
Dey pay for eet weeth harda toll,
Weeth goods road an' street.
Weeth crops Oat spreengft, from da soil
An' geeve you food for eat,
Wcth wheat dat mak' your bread so goodt
Weeth grape dat mak' your wines.
An. yes, dey pay eet weeth delr blood
On railroads, een da mines!
Wat deed you geeve for w'at you mak
Een deesa stocks deal?
Not wan good theeng for all you tak.
Not wan. Slgnor, but steel! ,
You say dees men no gotta right
To do da theeng dey do.
Escusa me for gat excite'.
I would ehak' hands weeth you.
Ees Crees mas-time, so let us be
Good 'Mericana men.
Shak' bands! 'Eet ees a Joy to ma
Far WW SfroQ.