THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, JANUARY 3. 1908.
HERE -IS SAD NEWS : THE DISHPAN HAT IS DOOMED !
PHYSICIANS DECLARE AGAINST IT IN NEW YORK AND THE MILLINERS HAVE BECOME MELANCHOLY
THE "dishpan" liat is doomed.
The great sweeping brim of vel
vet, its weight of drooping ostrich
.plumes tumbling over its inverted, down
the-back rim, has been declared against
by physicians In New York, that great
distributing point for fads and fashions
imported from the continent, and the so
ciety women and fashion leaders of
Gotham have reluctantly given way to
the edict, regretfully returning their ex
pensive and alluring "dishpan' hats to
the bandbox.
Ordinarily the. woman who is the for
tunate possessor of1 a ?75 or $MK "perfect
love of a liat" does not hasten to heed
the frown of the physician, and the whim
of a mere medical man usually counts
little against anything alluringly orna
mental; but this time the doctors win,
for not only is the heavy, backward
tmnging, down-pulling "dishpan hats"
declared to be merely injurions to the
health, but In addition, produces eondi-
New Year's Day With' F. X. Matthieu
George H. Himes Has Interesting Ohat With Veteran Patriot Who Helped Save Oregon Country to United States.
PORTLAND, Jan. 4. (To the Editor.)
It was the good fortune of the
writer to be able to spend New
Year's day, 1908, with a notable pioneer
of J842, lion. F. X. Matthieu, at his hos
pitable home, near Buttevllle, Marion
County. The squatter's right to the 640
acres he now owns Vas acquired in 1846.
and the title was confirmed to him as a
donation land claim under the provisions
. of the act of September 27, 1S50, and this
place has been his home for more than
61 years. Mr. Matthieu has now entered
the last quarter of his HOth year, and
aside from failing eyesight, which afflic
tion did not begin to be noticeable until
a few months ago, he is a remarkably
well preserved man. He Is a treasure
house of Information regarding affairs" in
the Willamette Valley from the date of
his arrivel at Oregon City, September 25,
1842, up to within a few years ago, when
he ceased to take an active interest in
public affairs.
Mr. Matthieu was born in' Montreal,
Canada, of French parents. April 2, 1818,
and on this account it has been supposed
hy some that he came to Oregon as an
employe of the Hudson's Bay Company.
On the contrary, he was a French
rob-l. and made his way to the United
States across the Canadian border in
1S37-3S. when it would have been decidedly
uncomfortable for him had he been
caught, and he first made himself known
In the United States at . Albany, N. Y.
Hero he worked at the carpenter's trade
for awhile, lie went to Chicago in 1S39,
and soon afterwards to St. loiiis. There
he formed the acquaintance of the elder
Vlerre Chouteau, - head of the American
Kur Company, and was employed as a
clerk for three years on the frontier in
charge- of parties of trappers and traders
among the Indians of the plains, notably
the Sioux, the most warlike and formid
able of the native races west of the Mis
souri Hiver.
Being instinctively a fair-minded man.
with a willingness to give every one a
sinare deal." an Indian as- well as a
white man. Mr. Matthieu had no diffi
culty in securing the confidence of all
the tribes he mot. and this inured to the
benefit of the company which employed
him. In large measure. And not only
that when he decided to leave the Amer
ican Fur Company's employ, early in the
Spring uf 1M2. his fair treatment of the
Indians was of great advantage to the
company of 100 or more immigrants
bound for Oregon under the leadership of
lr. Elijah White. In fact, judging from
the opinions expressed by different mem
bers of that company to the writer many
years apo. It is quite probable that had
it not been for Mr. Matthieu's knowledge
of the Indian dialects in the country
through which the westward-bound
homeseekers were traveling, there would
have been serious difficulty at least,
with a strong probability that the entire
?1 M:
: $ VsnV i s I
: v
: .i . v -I :
i ' i
I 'nMtimftiih, I
K. X. lntttalcu, rioneer of 1S42.
tions, such as eye-strain," St. Vitus'
dance, and a tendency to hysteria, which
constitute a menace to facial beauty and
endanger the lines of the figure. Against
such threats, even the most becoming
and most enticingly luxurious of feminine
adornments must beat ignominious re
treat, and so the great, sweeping brims
of velvet, with their fetching down-the-back
dip, are being doffed and reluctant
ly laid away.
Incidentally, the milliners are sad. The
physicians, they declare, are nasty, mean
things, bent upon ruining business and
quibbling over inconsequential trifles. In
every velvety Inch of the flaring "dish
pan" hat there was beauty and profit.
That is why the milliners. are so melan
choly. The making .of hats, and the
manipulation of a few yards of velvet
and a mere handful of $20 ostrich plumes,
company of whites would have been cut
off.
The first person that Mr. Matthieu
met after arriving at Oregon City on the
date above given was Rev. Alvan F.
Waller, who was doing missionary work
there in the Interest of the Methodist
Church. After a few preliminaries, the
minister Invited Mr. Matthieu to dinner:
the" latter, being roughly clad, declined
at first, but finally accepted the invita
tion, after repeated and most pressing re
newals. This was the first time that lie
had had the privilege of being seated
with a family, or even in a boarding
house, for more than two years: and as
he looked over the table laden with nicely
cooked food, particularly a large dish
full of steaming baked potatoes, none of
which he had seen for more than two
years, his desire to eat became almost
uncontrollable, and he nearly forgot the
formalities customary at a clergyman's
table. After an unusually long blessing
upon the meal, as it seemed to him, Mr.
Matthieu appeased his appetite as only a
man can who emerges from years in the
wilderness. At length he felt 'satisfied,'
and endured with great composure the
prayer which followed the dinner. After
the lapse of more than 65 years tn Ore
THE 9IUORG
I
' . - OPENED. . ,
SEATTLE, Wash., Jan. 4. tSpecial.) Wit it thf opening of the new Moore Theater, at Second avenue
and Virginia streets in Seattle, on December 2S, this city now claims the ownership of the finest thea
ter on the Pacific Coast. Incidentally the attraction to which the new showhouse threw open its doors
was distinctly a Seattle play. "The Alaskan," wiich was seen in Portland last November, and which was
written by two Seattle men Joseph Blethen, son of the editor of the Seattle Times, and Harry Girard.
The handsome new edifice Is- -the fruit of years of planning on the part of John Cort, the
veteral theatrical manager of the Northwest, who two years ago prevailed upon James A. Moore, one
of the wealthiest Seattle lumbermen, the need of a new and more elaborate theater than possessed by
the Puget Sound metropolis. The erection of the new theater was undertaken about eight months ago. E.
E. Hougiiton. the architect who designed and built the new playhouse, has formulated the plans of a large
number of the newest" skyscrapers in Seattle, notably the New Arcade and Lowman buildings. The cost of
the building Is J400.000. ' -
While the finishing touches had not yet been placed on the new theater by the opening night, it was
nevertheless a most attractive and cozy appearing house of amusement. The Blethen-GIrard play was re
ceived most enthusiastically by a representative Seattle audience of a trifle over 30)0 people. Society was
out in force, and from behind the footlights the gathering presented a most brilliant appearance.
Governor Albert E. Mead, of Washington; Mayor William Hickman Moore, of Seattle; John Cort, man
ager and lessee of the theater;-Calvin Heilig, president of the Northwest Theatrical Association, and James
A. Moore, builder of the handsome home of theatricals, each made short and appropriate addresses com
memorating the occasion. . - '
tu rrTj or rr com&wgp "asftpry j&zr
so that the result is almost universally
becoming, the milliners declare, is a work
of art (and incidentally fine for busi
ness), and now comes Mr. Saw-Bones,
and spoils it all! What if the hat is a
little heavy on "Ht head, and what if
it does null down a trifle hard at the
back? "Who would not suffer these trifles
for the bewitching effect of the great
velvet frame about her face, and tfte
perfectly darling droop of the great, un
curled plumes over the brim at the rear?
So argues the milliner, but in vain. The
"dishpan" ehapeau has met its "Waterloo,
and gone down. The ache at the base of
the brain, the consequent eye-strain, and
the bad shoulder-lines that come of a
heavy, down-pulling weight worn at the
back of the head, are not conducive to
beauty, and when the family doctor told
the nevre-racked wearer" of the "dish
gon. Mr. Matthieu looks back upon that
September day at Oregon City as one of
the brightest spots in his long life.
As may be remembered. Mr. Matthieu
"Was present at Champoeg May 2, 1843,
ind his vote, with that of Etlenne Lucier,
Cave the victory, by a majority of two,
to those who were in favor of estab
lishing American civil government on
-he Pacific Coast the -first in what is
ow the territory of the United States
west of the Rocky Mountains. Of the
102 persons present on that memorable
occasion, he is the only survivor.
In the organization .of the provision
al government, Mr. Matthieu served
for a time as a Justice of the peace.
In this capacity he performed all the
functions of a justice of the peace,
circuit and supreme judge, and .from
his decision there was no appeal. Once
a man was arraigned before him for
making "blue ruin," a vile intoxicat
ing drink distilled from the , poorest
Hudson Bay Company's molasses. The
culprit was convicted, fined heavily
and his plant destroyed. Before many
months it was found that he was In
the distilling business again. He was
accordingly arrested again. fined
heavier than before, the plant de
SEATTLE NOW HAS A HANDSOME NEW THEATER
THEATER AT SECONU AVU-MK AXU VIRGINIA STREETS,
pan hat that it was the. cause of all her
troubles, all the artfulness of the Gotham
milliner was wasted. he laid the hat
away, and told all her friends about it;
they laid theirs away, or took them back
to the milliner to be ruthlessly bobbed off
at the back and unballasted. They put
heads together, and found that they had
all; by reason of the down-dragging rear
of the heavy hat, been walking with
their shoulders drawn together, and their
chest and lungs hunched up, so that they
could not breathe properly; some of them
had contracted a little, hacking, dis
agreeable cough: others had acquired bad
shoulder lines; the complexions of still
others has faded under the strain, and
nervousness of the eyes were complained
of generally.
So . passed the "dishpan" bat in Xew
York. Now the news is spreading West
stroyed the second time, and the fol
lowing was the parting admonition of
Judge Matthieu: "Tne next time you
are arrested, brought before me and
convicted, I'll order you hanged." That
settled the business of making "blue
ruin" for that time, as the guilty
party left the cquntry and' was never
heard of again. Such summary pro
ceedings might improve some of the
conditions that people have to endure
nowadays. There Were but few law
yers then.
Mr. Matthieu was married to Miss
Rose Osent. on French Prairie, in 1844,
and removed to his present plaice In
1846, as already stated. H'e has been
the father of 15 children, eight of
whom are now living. Besides these,
there are 40 grandchildren and four
great-grandchildren. Mrs. Matthieu
died February 12, 190U aged 73 years.
Mr. Matthieu took the first degree in
Mosanry in 1855 in Multnomah Lodge No.
1, Oregon City the first Masonic Lodge
instituted on the Pacific Coast, which in
the beginning was known as No. f4,
under the jurisdiction of the Grand
Lodge of Missouri and the second and
third degrees in Champoeg Lodge. In
recognition of his long service as a good
citizen, the Masonic Grand Lodge of
Oregon, at its annual meeting on June
13, 1901. made Mr. Matthieu an honorary
past grand master a distinction bestowed
in Oregon for the first time. .
The spirit of independence which has
characterized Mr. Matthieu throughout
WHICH
-MAS RECENTLY
ward, and .Western milliners are vexed.
Splendid creations of velvet and plumes,
in. the richest of shades and of the most
enticing variations, must lie on their
shelves untouched, or perch vainly on the
stands In the display windows. Many of
the milliners customers, too, are sad, or
soon will be, for they have already made
their midwiner purchase and been proud
in the possession of the widest possible
of velvet brims and the largest heaviest
possible. of ostrich plumes.' Now these
must be discarded.
Two types of the "dishpan" hat are
shown in pictures No. 1 and No. 3. In
one of these is shown the condemned
combination of heavy .velvet and weighty
ostrich plumes. The other shows the
slightly less objectionable combination of
velvet brim with a wreath of velvet and
silken flowers. What is known as the
"compromise" hat (the , largest and
heaviest to which the physicians give
their endorsement) is shown in No. 2.
This shows the smart, backward dip
ruthlessly bobbed off, and the condemned
backward tilt remedied by several de
grees. ' " ' ; '
his long life, was manifested when he
first took the degrees in Masonry: He
was waited upon and remonstrated with
by the Catholic priest of the , parish in
which he was then living and informed
that to join secret societies was to vio
late the rules of the church. After
listening patiently for a time to the rep
resentations of the priest Mr. Matthieu
said: "I have joined the Masonic fra
ternity with my eyes open, and know
very well what the rules of the church
are in the premises. All I have to say
is this: If yoUj do not like what I have
done, you may expell me from the
church." But he has not yet been ex
pelled. Notwithstanding Mr.' Matthieu's ad
vanced age, he is deeply interested in
the events of the day, and there is no
apparent breaking down of his mental
faculties. In all of his experiences on
the frontier in the westward march from
ocean to ocean, beginning TO years ago,
the severest trial he has had, aside 'from
the losses by death of members of his
family, he is rfHw undergoing, in that he
cannot read any ' more on account of
failing eyesight. While this Is true, he
accepts the situation with composure
with a feeling of thankfulness that his
eyesight has been spared so long: and
his last words to me were: "Give all my
friends a Happy New Year greeting, and
tell them that we are going to have the
best celebration we ever-had at Cham
poeg on the second day of next May."
GEORGE- H. HIMES.
WHERE IS HIS LICENSE?
AV. H. 'Barry Asks Why Heney
"Butts' In" In "Oregon Politics.
PORTLAND, Or., Dec. 30. 1907. (To
the Editor.) Recently I have noticed
among the news items , in your paper
articles headed "Heney Opposes Ful.
ton," and "Heney Takes a Fling at
Fulton," and, as a high private in the
rear ranks of the Republican party in
Oregon, I desire to ask where does Mr.
Heney get his license to "butt in" in
Oregon politics, for this he is certainly
trying to do. He is doing his best to
blacken the reputation of Senator C. W.
Fulton and poison the minds of the
people . of Oregon against him, with
the assertion (in one of ' his inter-
Second Great Specials
IN OUR DISSOLUTION OF PARTNERSHIP SALE
Suit Values up to
'Mm'
mm w j. m f i i mmwt
MATTHEW GEVURTZ 'SSftSr
Successor to Gevurtz & Worrell "New Store With Little Prices"
views, self-sought, most likely) that
'what he knows about Fulton will
come cur tn the Hall trial." It seems
to me that if he had anything against
the Senator he would have broken his
neck to bring it out at the trials last
year, when he was putting forth every
effort to "land the big ones."
I will admit that Mr. Heney has been
a tireless worker in breaking up the
land ring in Oregon and putting out of
office and into Jail the grafters in San
Francisco, but this good work does not
give him the, right to besmirch our of
ficials just as it pleases him.
Heney was lucky in being selected
by "somebody" to prosecute the land
fraud cases. Just lucky, that is all
He did no more than any of our clever
criminal lawyers could have . done if
they had been given the support,
morally and financially, of the people
at Washington that Heney received, to
gether with an army of sleuths to
gather evidence and- bulldoze wit
nesses. Ever since the newspapers dubbed
him the "Great Prosecutor" he has been
strutting around like a peacock. Re
porters interview him and write up
stories of his early life, his great abil
ity as a prosecutor, etc., until they
have him so swelled up over his im
portance that he thinks he is the
savior-of the -whole Pacific Coast.
But. nevertheless, he did good work
in Oregon. He convicted toe guilty,
besmirched some good names, let the
arch-conspirator. "Sad" Puter. wax fat
in the County Jail, while those who
were guilty in a lesser degree were
sent to McNeils Island. Methinks
"Justice" has queer notions In her head.
Pure vindlctiveness prompts his attack
on Senator Fulton, nothing else. If he
had a chance to do it. he would have
dragged the Senator into the courts
last year when the land-fraud trials
were on. He wanted all the "big
ones" then. But the Senator's skirts
were clean and the Great Prosecutor
was unable to land his man.
Now that the primaries are near at
hand- and Mr. Fulton has made known
his desire to succeed himself, the
Great Prosecutor sees a chance to
blacken his good name by insinuating
that there - is something wrong with
the Senator, but- the people of this
state want evidence, and "clean" evi
dence at that, that Mr. Fulton is not
a fit person to represent them in Con
gress, and 1 believe, by their votes In
June next, will show Mr. Heney that
they, are opposed to outside interfer
ence from the great or near-great who
seek to pour out their spleen "to get
even" on a man, who. though unfor
tunately was surrounded with muck,
through' respect for himself and party,
kept clear of ail entanglements.
Some reader may ask why should
Mr. Heney feel vindictive toward Mr.
Fulton. To those I will say look up
the newspaper files of the period when
Heney first arrived, or when his ap
pointment was first mentioned, and
you will readily grasp the reason.
Mr. Fulton's election will not bring
me anything. I was always opposed to
his faction in politics, but I am prompt
ed to write this communication
through a spirit of fairness, since the
"peacock." with a belly full of goat's
milk thinks he will "butt in" like as
not, and inasmuch as there is no di
vision in the Republican party today,
and Mr. Fulton being the logical candi
date, I will do all I can to give him a
boost, and know of others who were
not with him before Heney joined the
anvil chorus, that are for him now,
tooth and nail.
WILLIAM H. BARRT,
785 East Taylor Street.
MISSION OF A NEWSPAPER
A Subscriber Voices His Apprecia
' tlon of The Orcgonlan.
ANACONDA. Mont., Jan. 3. (To the
Editor.) U has long been a cause of Joy
to me that in The Oregonian the plain,
common people have one great newspaper
that is sincerely devoted to their inter
ests, and is also sane in judgment and
fearless in the -expression of opinions
necessary to be expressed, if the public is
to be illuminated and instructed, and not
merely flattered and exploited by certain
"yellow" newspapers.
How necessary, that word "sane" has
become of late, to express a meaning
that no other word will quite satisfy. It
is very suggestive. Conditions are becom
ing such that only those who are utterly
fearless, as our fearless and strenuous
President is so fond of saying, are fit for
positions such as are occupied by fearless
newspaper editors. He who speaks ' to
the public with the prestige which at
great public organ or high position gives
incurs now, it seems to me, a greater
responsibility than- ever before. The less
responsive and more critical attitude of
the public doesn't release him (the edi
tor) from responsibility and give htm li
cense to play the demagogue, faker or
clown. It increases his responsibility and
exalts his position. It Is glorious to in
struct, enlighten . and lead manly, self
reliant, critical men. A mere brute can
lead a submissive clientage.
The sincerity, toleration and sanity of
The Oregonian commands my profound
respect, and the industry, comprehensive
knowledge and breadth of view evinced
in its daily articles abundantly testify to
the high character of the paper. The
Oregonian has not only kept abreast of
the times, but it is especially character
ized by one quality .that I fail to notice
In such a striking degree in any other
of our great dailies growth of the right
sort coming to the paper that ip fearless.
$25 Special $11.45
All Suits, in every
. style . and color, re
duced for this great
sale.
COATS Every
style and length, re
duced from $5.00 to
$15.00.
BLACK SILK PET
TICOATS Values
to $10.00, s p e c i a lr
$4.45.
'All Umbrellas, Bags,
Coats and Sweaters
reduced this week.
Diamond
M Rings and
m Earrings Reduced v
After the Christinas rush
we find we have too many
of these rinsrs left and too
much invested e a p i t a 1
idle, and to reduce our
stock and secure the cash,
we will sell fine color, per
fectly cut, Tiffany Setting
Diamond Rings:
$500 Rings $400
$350 Rings ....... .9275
$300 Rings $225
$275 Rings .$235
$200 Rings $150
$150 Rine-s .$110
$125 Rings . ... S 97
P-luu xviuga v
$ 50 Rings . $37.50
$500 Earrings .....$400
$auu .Earrings 4U
$250 Earriners $200
$175 Earrings .....$128
$150 Earrings . . . . .$115
$125 Earrings,... ..$ 96
A-t ri t-i . fly
$1UU XjcUTUIgS
$ 75 Earriners 4
$ 50 Earrings $ 38
Scud for our Catalogues of fine
Diamond Jewelry, Iiinjrs,
Bracelets, Watches aud Dia
monds.
Leffert s
Jewelers and Opticians.
272 WASHINGTON ST.
Telephone Main 7520. Portland, Or.
J
tireless and sincere and has lofty faith.
A happy New Year.'
J: LEWIS.
INDIANS DO NOT GET LAND
Errors In Survey Necessitate Relo
cating Allotments.
OREGONIAN NEWS BUREAU,v"ash
ington, Jan. 4. Complaints innumer
able have come to Congressman Jones
from time to. time from settlers on
landsIn the north half of the Colville
Indian Reservation that they were un
able to get title to their lands. This
was because'of the fact that owing tJf
defective surveying originally and in
allotting lands to the Indians entries
did not correspond to the land upon
which the entryman was located.
To correct this the Land Office has
been, for a year or two resurvcying
and relocating the allotments to the
Indians and at various times during
this, period Mr. Jones has accelerated
the naturally slow action of the offfce
by several well-directed prods. He
has again taken up the matter and
has been assured -that the office hopes
to have the whole matter adjusted
within a very few weeks.
Blue Room Good for Xervcs.
- Indianapolis News.
Blue surroundings, the doctor also
declares, are good for nervous affec
tions. Patients placed in a blue room,
where light, hangings, furniture, and
all are blue, are soothed from nervous
tension, and pass into a pleasant slum
ber. " The expression, "a fit of the'
blues." thiiA loses its meaning.
,S
aK y.