THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, NOVEMBER 10, 1907.
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The Broken I -en re. By Herbert Quick.
Illustrated. The Bobbs-Merrill Compiw,
Indianapolis, Ind.
! Seriously, it Is a welcome change from
the sensational novels which too often
bear the Bobhs-Merrill Imprint, to dip
Into such an intellectual, altruistic atmos
phere as that met with in "The Broken
Lance. Next to the title page Is a quo
tation from George Macdonald, and It
would seem that a beam of light from the
great Scotch philosopher or la It from
Geora-e Eliot or Mrs. Humphrey Ward?
lives again among Mr. Quick' charac
ters. A school scene is first ushered in, and
then the hero. Emerson Courtwrtght. rives
the little lecture on singing to Olive
' Doarwester: "You must use your
throat muscles aud you must practice
. every day before a mirror, ao a to hare
a pleasant expression Instead of that
colicky look some sinters have. Breath
from, the diaphragm and keep looking
at the back of your mouth In the glass
to see that you carry your 'da. me, nl,
po. tu. la. be, da" e'ear from your lowest
tone to high C without moving tha aoft
palate a bit."
The central not of the novel, how
ever, is not singing but the doctrine enun
ciated by Rev. Mr. Courtwright that the
world needs the democracy of Jesus, that
the latter meant to found an earthly king
dom, and that if Jesus' precepts were
followed today they would ameliorate
all social conditions. Mr. Cartwrtght was
pastor of the First Church of Lattl
- more and had by his socialistic altruistic
preaching a tempestuous ministry. His
wife divorces him, and he Is married to
Olive by a farmer justice of the peace
who says: "Glad to meet yeh, ladles
an' gentlemen. An' now, If yeh'H pleas
fetch the parties before me as soon as
ye kin. I'd like to git back to my per
taters." Courtright's ultimate martyr
career Is presented with almost the
grandeur of stage settings.
Mrs. Dearweater is another Mrs. Wiggs.
and is skillfully drawn. Says she. In
, speaking of pious hypocrisy In church
life: Don't break the fact too suddenly that
the church Is nothing but a social clue
I've seen the church I attended controllea
by greed and avarice, until -1 stow sick
of the thought of what I used to think.
I've knelt at the communion-rail and taken
the bread and wine from the Oncers ot
men that cringed to all the robbery and
theft ot this day all that happened to b
in their congregation with a whole row or
folks kneeling by the side of me that you
couldn't for your life tell, not with a mas
nlfylng glass, by the way they did business
or loved their fellow-men. from the folka
that were off at picnics or doing other
worldly things out In the world.
The atory also switches to labor
troubles In Chicago and will ba remem
bered as being of more than passing
moment. Its Americanism is refresh
ing. The Bald en Prosperity. By Chancellor
Pay. Price, S1.50. D. Applston Co..
New Tork.
For sometime past sundry mutter
ings have been proceeding out ot the
pastern sky that on James Rosco Day,
D. D., L-L. . D., chancellor of the
Standard OH Syracuse University, N. T.,
was threatening to write a book in
which he was to express his contempt
for Americans in general, and satisfaction
with Standard Oil and hlmsalf, In par
ticular. Here is the DOOk, ot ioi page.
And it's dry reading.
Chancellor Pay has tried to scar up a
bogey and has failed. He again shows
nis unreasonable dislike for President
Itoosevelt and his sympathy for corpora
tions and swollen fortunes. Portions of
the 30 chapters hsve already appeared In
Van Norden's Magasin and Leslie's
Weekly, according to Chancellor Day's
own statement, and he Insists that the
subjects he discusses in his book h pro
nounced himself upon for th most part.
l years ago. Chancellor Day talks wall
for his employers.
A few extracts from the book:
A law-making, court-controlling executlv
department, a government by commission,
a personal construction of th ConstltuUoa
is not a republic.
When a President deelares that no man
will be permitted to succeed him who ts
not in sympathy with "his policy.' upon
what does he base this assumption but this
fart, that there are In the Held, subject t
his civil-service Influence, thousands of men
who are the servants of his administration
and of his ambitions.
The danaer of concentrated sovereignty
. . . of tha possibility that the people
will allow their local affairs to be admin
istered by "prefects" from Washington.
D. C.
It is useless to look te the Democrats
for a change back to the Constitution.
The Standard Oil Company that cor
poration which has been the so Meet ot tn
fiercest attacks because In a flela of tn
sharpest competition has been en ot tn
greatest benefactors our country ever has
known, whether viewed as the laboring
man's friend from hi day wag to th
lamp in his cottage, or as th producer or
a civilizing force, world-wide.
The only safety lie in government by
constitutional law aad wis statutes. lm
which is mixed th controlling and predom
inating element of common law.
The Lion's Share. By Octsve Thsnst. Illus
trated. Th Bebbe-Msrrlll Company, Xa
dlanapolls, Ind.
Octave Thanst has been quick to aeis
upon a theme that has pulsating interest
just now the ruthlessnesa ef a captain of
finance to engineer a world-coup. In tha
novel the frensied financier's nam is
given as Edwin 8. Keateham "th fourth
richest man la th United States." and
at the same time the portrait might b
that of B. H. Harriman. Th tale races
up and down San Francisco streets, and
the hero-colonel says, on pat K. "San
Francisco is no place for an Innocent
kid even to tak the safest-looking
walk. What sort of police system have
you, anyhow?"
The San Francisco earthquake is briefly
referred to as if it were a passing inci
dent, and the usual excoriation of Wall
street is throttled out. There's an echo
nf Earle Ashley Waleott's "Blindfolded,"
in "The Lion's Share" which is an in
teresting stock exchange novel of gallop
ing Interest. It opens with a suicid and
mystery is piled on mytry.
Th Heart Uae. By Gelett Burcess. Illus
trated. The Bobbs-MerriU Company. In
dianapolis. Ind.
Above everything else this story pic
tures the "fast' set of San Francisco, its
fakers, bogus spiritualists and fortune
tellers, but does not seem to be an ad
vertisement of that city as a place of
happv residence. Zola might have writ
ten it, so much "realism" or rather dirt
is there.
The boldest drawn character is that of
Miss Fancy Grey, a young woman whose
hair had changed from brown to red.
and whose complexion was probably
bleached. She loves a vicious life and is
pictured as a crushed butterfly, but she
calls herself" a "drifter." She ogles you
as If from a French novel, and ultimately,
on psg 55, sh tragically says: "Well,
there's nothing In the rac but th
, mmm mmm n"
ORETorSTS5r
OltEOON LOOOIN6 CAMP
finish! This Is where I get off!" And then
she drowns herself in San Francisco Bay.
Cheap and sensational, "The Heart
Lin" would be Improved by a chloride of
Urn bath.
Th Franklin aad Lincoln Year Books.
Compiled by Wallace Rice. Illustrated.
Price, tl each. A. C. MeClurg Co..
Attractively bound, printed and pictured,
these two separata volumes one chronic
ling the sayings of Benjamin Franklin
and the other Abraham Lincoln are very
suitable for gifts In the approaching
Santa Claus season. The books have a
apace for each day in the year, the said
space being adorned by a sample of
Franklin or Lincoln wisdom. . A capital
Idea, well arranged.
jory Oort. By Alice and' Claude Askew.
Price, 11.60. Brentano', New Tork.
Mr. and Mrs. Askew have written In
this English story a strong study of tem
perament affecting a young girl's life. It
is not happy, but it appeals to the in
tellect. The novel should be called
"Lucy, the Weak," as the heroine Is no
toriously lacking in backbone.
His Wife. By Warren Cheney. The Bobbs
Merrlll Company, Indianapolis, Ind.
In a sympathetic, strongly-featured
character study of life in a Russian gov
Vox wo. u. J -
Oregon Railway and Nav. no.
VoyBillXo tfjJLfl ',. ,, from ZmCAuUC-
fttflHItE Of FIRST THROUGH WAf
JaV This blank to b uud only for N. P. through,
Above is reproduced a facsimile of the waybill for the first through shipment from the Pacific Coast over tho Northern Pacific Railroad. Tha "merchandise" was one buggy hors
owned by John Mulr. the general traffic manager of the VUlard lines, with headquarters in St. Paul. In 1883 the actual Western terminus of the Northern Pacific was at Wallula Junction,
where closest connection was made with the O. R. & N. just as now with the Oregon Short Line at Huntington. All freight west of Wallula, of course, originated with the O. R. & N. This
grotesquely decorated souvenir was published and sold for tho benefit of the Western Union operators who went on a strike in 1883. I. C. Cary, now agent of the Southern Pacific a Lafay
ette, Or., bought a copy and has kept it framed ever since.
WL M fefetf spr
h4j SJ5 ;:-&W-
ernment post In Alaska, a readable tale
Is unfolded. A double love story evolved
from the bed-rock of primal instinct, the
literary treatment of "His -Wife" re
calls the touch of Ibsen without the lat
ter's morbidness. The women . of the
novel appeal because they are ruggedly
original. ,
Laid Lp In lavender. By Stanley J.-tV'ey-man.
Longmans, Green & Co.. New York.
As the commanding leader in the ! re
cent revival of the historical romantic
novel, Mr. Weyman is universally known,
but not so much as a writer of excellent
short stories. Here are one dozen of
first-class English tales told with all
the brilliance that the name of Weyman
naturally recalls.
The Making of a Successful Husband. By
Casper S. Yost. Q. W. Dillingham. Com
pany. NeW York.
Consists of a welcome reprint of al
ready admired letters of a happily mar
ried man, John Sneed, to his son. The
book opens with the son's engagement
to Miss Anna May Jackson, and the ad
vice given Is amusing, often delicately
cynical, and always worth reading.
The Trddyssey, by Otho Cushing. Illus
trated $1. Life Publishing Co.. New
York City.
It is surely given to other people than
T"
. C2x N
Bill ISSUER BY N.P. R.R:
V
4 ) (i!m- rr I B V - A II . III I , 1 1 , i ma i i ' 1 .
r , Totals. & r T
When rat is nted which is not according to pubjishedtariff, sot in last columa
FIRST THROCGH WAYBILL EVER ISSUED IX
billing.
artists to appreciate drawings and car
icature. This" being so. Mr. Cushing's
most laughable book should have a sale
beyond art circles, for It Is caricature in
its hst form, and while It abounds In
goodatured fun, it Is entirely respect
ful to Its subject. Experts say that Mr.
CuBhmg's" skill as a draughtsman In al
most pure line. Is freely recognised both
in this country and abroad.
In this attractive book of 36 pages,
bound in boards with clever cover de
sign, Mr. Cushing records 4n outline draw
ing President Roosevelt's various ac
complishments and experiences, but pat
terned after a classical style In much the
same manner In which Homer made
famous the wanderings of the wily
Ulysses. The exploits pictured Include
the President's hunting experiences, the
battle of San Juan Hill, the victorious re
turn from the war In Cuba, and his elec
tion to the Presidency. The book will
especially appeal to enthusiastic collec
tors of Rooseveltiana,
J. M. Q.
NEW BOOKS RECEIVED.
"Grit." Mrs. Beatrice Mantle's new novel
of an Oregon lumber camp, was reviewed
last week In these columns.
Carolyn Wells has written a series of
quaint and humorous verses, which sh calls
"The Happychaps." which will run through
several number of St. Nicholas. They will
have plenty of pictures, made lly Harrison
Cady, the artist who has beeif illustrating
Mrs. Burnett's "Queen Silver-bell" stories.
.
These books were received through til
courtesy of the J. K. Gill Company : "Th
Rock of Chickamausa." "Devoia." "Garri
son's Finish," "Where , the Red Volleye
Poured." "Pinafore Palace," "The Wagner
Stories," "The Rival Campers Ashore," "Tn
Bandman," "The Doctor's Little Girl."
Tleminttna's Highwayman," "Billy's Prin
cess" and "Th Making of a Successful
Husband.".
e
A new edition Is announced of Ralph
Waldo Trlne's "In Tune With the Infinite."
completing 100,000 copies. This Is a re
markable record for a work other than fic
tion, and Is surely an encouraging sign of
the reaiins time. To date, over 800.000
copies of th Trine "Life Book" to which
the above volume belongs have been is
sued in this country and England: while
several translations of them have also been
made.
'
Traveling men will be interested to know
that early next month will be published a
book entitled "Men Who Sell Things." y
Walter D. Moody, well known in Chicago for
his energetic work In connection with organ
ising the Association of Commerce, and tn
head of the selling force of one ot tb
largest wholesale houses in the city. Tn
volume presents th experiences and theories
of a practical man who has spent Ms lit
studying the ' problems that confront th
average seller of goods.
A quaint little volume that will delight
all lovers of artistic book-making will be
found In "Th New England Primer: Re
fashioned In the Spirit of New England To
day." prepared by Edwin M. Bacon. With
unique type ornaments, decorative borders,
line cuts and Illustrations, with, binding in
colonlan boards and paper label, the reader
can easily Imagine himself- transported to
the earlier period which witnessed such
extensive use of the historic original.
'
A unique Idea In the method of making
an anthology was adopted in the preparation
of "The Parnassu ot English Verse." In
order to eliminate the personal equation
which often bears so prominent a paxt in
the compilation of any group of poems, tho
seven best anthologies of English verse were
made to contribute to this anthology of
anthologies, but only to the extent of tak
ing those poems which appeared In at least
four out of the seven. The book is a' beauti
fully made one of convenient 16-mo sise
in every way & very companionable volume.
. -
- A seventh printing la announced of 10,000
copies of "Aunt Jane of Kentucky," by Elisa
-Whose C72-J-
trf Artiest--
CoIt ica. rur oeAXty
A
T otals,
THE TALE OF Ttf OJtfQOtf MARE fl
Calvert Hall; a lth printing of "The Wood
carver of Lympus." by Mary E. Waller; an
Ighth printing of "A Prince of Sinners," by
E. Phillips Oppenhelm. and a fourth print
ing of "The Betrayal," by the same authon
a second printing of "Susan Clegg and a
Man In the House." by Anne Warner;
a' third printing, in advance of publication,
of "The Nether Millstone." by Fred H.
White; and a second printing of "Judy," a
new Fall juvenilj, by Temple Bailey,
v
The special talent of the Castles ha
rarely appeared to better advantage than
In their latest book, "My Merry Rock
hurst." . .It is not a novel, but rather a
collection of stories, all dealing with the
same character and presenting a series of
pictures of life in one of the most roman
tio periods In English hlBtory. , All of
them have to do with Lord Rockhurst, a
typical Castle hero the Intimate friend
and faithful follower of th Second Charles
of Englanl, the Ideal of a olever, gallant
gentleman, so reckless and daring that the
popular designation of him Is "Rakehell
Rockhurst," so cynical and saturnine In de
meanor that his king has bestowed on him
in mockery the title "My Merry Rockhurst."
ewe
Ther Is in preparation a little book called
"Beppo," a humorous and fantaetio tale
of a little ros-eolored monkey, translated
from the Italian by Walter S Cramp. It
relates the monkey's unexpected and some
Simes peculiar adventures, which children
will follow with delight, both sympathising
with Beppo In his predicaments and rejoic
ing with him In his escapes. From the
time Beppo leave his forest home of "Guess
It" until he starts upon a trip around the
world (which may be written about some
day In another book), his mischievous
monkey propensities get him Into all sorts
of scrapes; but h Is a resourceful fellow
and Anally triumphs over all his difficulties.
Th pictures, some full page and others
running along the margin, share the whimsi
cal notion or tn story ana aad not a little
to th fun of th text.
Lafaytt HcUwi, the author if "Tha
Welding." a new American novel dealing
with th welding of the Nation after civil
strife, la an experienced writer vnon
Southern training and affiliations have ar
forded rather unusual opportunities for tn
tudy of conditions in that section. Lafay
ette McLaw is the daughter of General La
fayette Mr-Laws, of Georgia, and a native
of Augusta. Her mother was Mis Taylor,
of Lexington, Kj., a niece of Zachary Tay
lor. After the death of her parents. Miss
McLawa resided with tb lat Mrs. Jeffer
son Davis In New York City; who looked
upon her as her ward. Those who reran
that th llrst. wife of Jefferson Davis wa
the daughter ot Zachary Taylor, and now
of the devotion of th' second Mrs. Davis .to
her husband's memory, will readily under
stand why th latter would tak a special
Interest In this Southern author. "Too
Welding" ia published In Boston. sl
"Where th Red Volleys Poured." by
Charles W. Dahllnger; "Garrison's Finish."
by W. B. M. Ferguson: "Devota." by Au
gusta Evans Wilson; "Th Rock of Chlck
amauga," br General Charlea King (Dil
lingham Company).
"Plnafor Palace, a Book of Rhymes."
edited by Kate Douglas Wlggln and Nora
Archibald Smith; "The Wagner Stories," by
Fllson Young (McClure's).
"The Optimist's Good Morning," bv Flor
ence Hobart Pertn:-$i.ao. (Little-Brown.)
Goldsmith's "Vicar of Wakefleld" ana
"Deserted Village," edited by Jame. Arthur
Tufts. 45 cent; Cooper's "Adventures ot
Deerslayer." adapted by Margaret N.
Haight, 35 cents; "Explorers and Founders
of America," by Anna Elizabeth Foote and
Avery Warner Skinner. 60 cents. (Ameri
can Book Company.)
"The Rival Campers Ashore," bv Ruei
Perley Smith; "The Sandman His Ship
Stories," by William J. Hopkins; "The Doc
tor's Little Girl." by Marion James Tag
gart. and "Clemintina's Highwayman." by
Robert N. Stephens and George H. Westley,
each, $1.50; "Billy's Princess." by Helen E.
Haskel (Page & Co.)
"What Robin Did Then," by Marian War
ner Wlldman. 11.50 (Dana-Eitesi.
"A Book of Joys," . by Lucy Fitch Per
kins (MoClurg).
"Comrade John," by Merwin Webster,
gt.SO (Macmlllan).
"A King In Rags," by Cleveland MoITet.
and "The Medusa Emerald," by George
GKTbs. each tl.SO ( Applaton's).
&ckCaora Local CWpt " Prepaid,
'4c, f PC 2jA
ALA yL,
A - w
data and number ot special rat.
PORTLAND.
- y.
Fashions for the Men
AUTUMN and "Winter ordinarily
bring to the fore the more sober
colors in men's dress, but the pres
ent season is an exception. Not only in
clothing, but in the accessories, shirts,
eravfcts and linen, the trend ts markedly
toward more color, says the New Tork
Sun.
Brown predominates for business and
ordinary wear brown in natural Autumn
tone, rich and mellow, warm and cheer
ful and often In wonderfully rich combi
nations. Greens and olives are also be
ing worn by men who seek to dress dif
ferently from -Aie general mass.
Blues and gTays, too, are worn, but in
combination with stripes and checks Of
different colors or tones of the same color.
Thus the brown stripes are overlaid on
blue fabrics and green or brown on gray
and two tones of gray or two of blue are
used tog-ether, one for the body, the other
for the pattern.
Stripes are seen everywhere, varying
from hairlines to the broad and bold, and
a few checks are also seen.
Soft unfinished worsteds are favorites
for coats and trousers, but cheviots are
undoubtedly coming In rapidly and many
well-dressed men are wearing them, prob
ably because they surpass all other ma
terials for wearing qualities, hold their
shape better and crease loss.
For Fall and Winter overcoats brown, of
course, predominates as In suits. Plain
weaves and herringbone patterns are fa
vored and many of the patterns ordinarily
used Tor suits are being made into over
coats for Fall.
The Newmarket or paletot, the) favorite
Fall overcoat, is made in more lively pat
terns and colors than heretofore, especi
ally in cheviots.
The changes In men's fsshlons. moving
forward in their cycle, have brought again
to the fore the moderate garments which
suit the average man. The sack coat, the
almost universal business garment of the
American man, can be beat described by
the expression common sense.
The sense Is displayed in the lack of
striving for effect and the moderate lines
of the garment. The coat reaching almost
to the knee has gone the way of all fads;
the exaggerated shoulder, built up out of
all proportion, has disappeared and fash
Ion dictates moderation in all directions.
The shoulders are of natural width and
by the-.-t of the tailor show a square
effect without padding. The length is
Just Tight, neither long nor short.
Fashionable Coat Loose. .
The distinguishing mark of tha fashion
able coats for Fall and Winter Is loose
ness. In England, as is well known, th
master's clothes are loose and baggy, th
man's tight. In America, while few well
dressed men would affect the baggy Eng
lish clothes, the looseness has been bor
rowed and all the best garments for the
season are roomy and comfortable, such
as the American business man demands.
The coats are cut from two to four
inches larger over the chest than the act
ual breast measure, and the rest of the
garment In proportion. The sack coat Is
slightly ehaped at the back and sides and
hangs straight from the shoulders, the
surplus material draped in the proper
place by the art of the tailor. ,
The exaggeration varies with the
type of man. tha tall, slender figure
suiting; the larger garment, while the
short, stocky Individual must have
Boat,
Total M Ttj
KEstARXa.
?l
! t 0 -
V
TVocd Jul
tr
s
more tightly fitting coats to keep tha
balance. ...
. With such a coat some ornamenta
tion may be allowed, and fancy sleeve
cuffs, patched pockets, novel pocket
flaps and concave collars and lapels
are added according to the taste of the
customer.
In the Fall coat the long lapels have
a soft roll, so that all the buttons may
be fastened or only the lowest, and
th lapels will adjust themselves to the
varying conditions. They are never
ironed flat The slit in the back seam
Is added or- not, as the customer dic
tates, much being left to his discre
tion. The three - button single - breasted
sack coat meets the requirements of
most business men and Is the preferred
model. It Is cut with long- peaked
lapels, and th opening is made to ex
tend to the lower end of the breast
bone. .
The waistcoat should have an equal
opening if of the same material as the
coat, but Is worn slightly higher when
of fancy material, to show in the open
ing above the coat. The front edges
are straight, with only a slight cut
away below the lower button and with
slightly rounded corners.
The four-button eack coat is entirely
a matter of personal taste. If It is
worn the buttons are nearer together
than in the three-button coat. '
The double-breasted sack coat will
be vorn by the athletic individuals ,
who forego a topcoat. It does not set 1
well under an overcoat. Is clumsy and
cumbersome, and is losing Its vogue '
for city wear.
The double-breasted coata follow in '
looseness the single-breasted models, '
but are an inch longer. The lapels are
wide, peaked and soft rolled, not
Ironed down. The front 1 straight,
with no cutaway, and closes with
three buttons, the top pslr of buttons
one inch further apart than the bot
ora pair. v
Skirt Coats fop Professional Men.
Profeselonal men. such as doctors
and lawyers and the higher office men.
are turning more and more to the skirt
coat for business. This preferenoe Is
due to the desire to wear something
out of the ordinary, in cut as well as
in color.
Two designs of skirt coats are worn
thta Fall the so-called English walk
ing coat, slightly longer than a sack
coat, but fitting in the back with a
skirt, and th morning coat, built on
the same general lines as a single
breasted frock coat, but cut away in
the. front.
Th morning frock reaches nearly to.
the bend of, the knee. Both of thes
coats, while' fitted In the back, have
the loose, comfortable look that marks
the season's styles. They are made
from the prevailing colors, or black.
The black coat, if it follows the morn
ing coat model, is flat braided on the
front edges, collar and lapels.
Vogue of the Fancy Waistcoat.
The vogue of the fancy waistcoat
still continues unabated. Its use gives
that note of color for which men seem
to be striving, and for business makes
attractive a costume otherwise neu
tral. In colors and patterns there is diffi
culty In choosing, the variety for
choice being practically unlimited.
Flannel is the favorite material, stripes
or small figures the preferred pat
terns. As In skirts and cravats, a
man's taste must govern; there Is no
hard-and-fast rule to follow.
Fancy waistcoats are either single or
double breasted, opening just high
enough to show when the coat is but
toned. The single breasted have a
notched collar, close with five buttons,
and the points below the bottom but
ton are 3V4 Inches long.
The double breasted are cut to show
points in front as do the single breast
ed. close with three buttons, the top
pair one Inch further apart than the
lowest.
If a waistcoat of the same material
as the coat to worn. It has a collar and
lapels to match those of the coat, and
closes with flv buttons.
Notwithstanding efforts to bring back
into favor trousers of different ma
terial from the coat, men who follow
the fashion continue to wear coat and
trousers of the same cloth and pat
tern. The greater wear of the trousers
to provided for by buying extra trous
ers. Trousers fbr Fall and Winter are cut
closer In the leg than has been the
custom, but are easy over the seat.
They are short enough to hsng
straight and avoid the break over the
ankle, but are finished at the bottom
without a cuff.
Overcoats.
The business overcoat for Autumn and
Winter Is the single breasted fly front
Chesterfield, popular for so many years
as a general utility coat, or the paletot,
a skirt coat cut on frock lines. While
It Is true that the short overcoat, the
paletot and the Chesterfield will all be
worn, each of them has its definite place,
as sharply defined as the custom for tha
dress coat or the double-breasted frock.
The covert coat Is used by well-dresjed
men solely as a coat for riding or driv
ing. Its shortness and lack of tails fit It
admirably for Its place on the back of a
horse, or getting Into or out of a dog
cart.
The paletot is being worn for Autumn
by well-dressed men. Its use requires all
the other parts of the costume to be In
harmony with It. It makes up well In
tha lighter or medium weights of wool
ens, but Is difficult to tailor in heavy
goods.
It is long, falling to the middle of th
calf and Is close fitting tn the back In
the usual frock style. The breast la ex
aggerated, while the waist is trim, and
the skirts have a decided flare from the
waist over the hips. It may be single or
double-breasted as preferred, and is fin
ished with buttons made from the same
material as the coat, or, it single breast
ed, with a fly front
There are many men who, from their
physical conformation, cannot wear a
Newmarket with distinction, and for
these the Chesterfield Is produced. The
correct sack or Chesterfield top coat is
exceedingly roomy and loose. It is not
at all body fitting and falls straight from
the shoulders, both front and back, in
what Is known as the box back style.
It reaches to about two Inches below
the knee, and has a long slit In the cen
ter seam of the back. The coat closes
with a fly covering three buttons. The
Autumn Chesterfield has a collar of the
same material as the body of the cost,
while th Winter weights, darker in color
and more conservative as to pattern, are
finished with a velvet collar.
Following closely the colors in a-ar-
ments the accessories shirts, ties, linen
display more color, not the lighter
snaaes nut tne brighter and warmer
shades of the darker colors.
In. One Family, Anyhow.
London Globe.
It is probable that the portions of the
Cullinan diamond removed In cutting It
for presentation by the Transvaal to
King Eld ward may be used to make a
necklace for Queen Alexandra. The dia
mond is 3032 karats uncut, and It is said
that one of the cut portions will - be al
most as large as the Koh-i-noor in lis)
cut form, 106 karats.