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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 3, 1907)
7 Frocks for the Sweet Sixteens Ghats With Half-Grown-Ups THE SUNDAY OKEWIMAX. I'OKTLAJJD. NOVEMBER 3, 1907. 11101 KKE5rQnpmc Dvcc f fAsniH5 & Peaoty lOlll The title cf "sweet sixteen" has to sne always been sadly misplaced. Pretty twenty-one would be , much truer, for In reality there Is no age more trying than sixteen. Girls who have reached that number of years are either too young to do one thing;, or too old to do the other. It may be a sweet ago to study, but to actually live through, i think every girl looks back to It as a nightmare. And mm Afternoon Gonm, mothers are often sorely perplexed with the question of what style Is proper for a miss of that ag-e. Per haps these few suggestions will be welcome to such mothers. At least we hope co."' The very popular Peter Thompson suli, which, in reality is merly a type of sailor suit, is always to be pur chased ready-made, but the price is high and the style rather severe. To day we are showing one of the newest sailor suit models. Blouses are anionic the mcst practical and becoming, mod els for a girl whose figure is as yet unformed, and for outing and school no better style could be suggested. To make a dress of this model for a miss of sixteen would require five yards of double-width goods. Solid colors make up best, and a gray French serge trimmed with red braid, red belt and tie is a most effective combination. Tan and brown are also popular. Another problem that confronts the mothers is what style of goods to use for the afternoon and church gown. As to fabrics, they are manifold, but cheapest and most effective among them are the henrlettas, cashmeres and wool batistes. Oftentimes the miss of sixteen is "lanky," and a dress that has a few tiny ruffles on it will set the skirt out and relieve her of that How to Get WHILE the long sleeve will doubt less be worn on all outdoor gar ments this season, -ery short sleeves are to be seen on all house and evening dresses, making pretty, well rounded arms almost a necessity. So many of my correspondents write to me for information on this subject that these bints may be timely. To begin with, red hands and arms are caused by poor circulation nine times out of ten, and hence to reduce the color you must reach the seat of the disorder. The circulation can be greatly assisted by bathing and massaging. Many women will spend plenty of time on their faces and utterly disregard their arms, which. In these days, are almost as Conspicuous. As a rule hot water should be used with a god plain soap, and your arms need much rubbing with a rough Turk ish towel or other towed with rough fin ish. This rubbing tends to keep the flesh smooth and soft, keeping down any eruptions that might show themselves. If the skin is rough and easily irritated, I would suggest the use of oatmeal or bran bags, always rubbing the flesh dry with the rough towel until the skin is rosy red. Regarding discolorations of the ' arm, ; home remedies are really better than any amount of prepared bleaches. The toilet tables of some beauty parlors look like a veritable vegetable garden. They are laden with lemons, tomatoes, cucum bers, and even lettuce. All of these are for bleaching purposes. Perhaps none of them are more valuable than the lemon. If the skin on the arms and hands has become discolored through exposure or housework, nothing will clear It better than the constant application of lemon Juice. Cut a lemon in . half and rub the arms well every night and morning. Fresh ripe tomatoes are also good for this purpose, while a milk made from the Juice of fresh cucumbers is also excellent. Many women have a very rough elbow, and this affliction can be greatly relieved by rubbing with a cake of pumice stone every night. The rubbing should be gen tli and gradual, not vlsorous and violent. The greatest evil that presents itself on the arms Is the superabundance of hair a trouble common to many women. These, of course, can be taken off by means of electricity, but the expense is great and the process very painful and slow. There is, however, a proprietary article that has worked wonderful re sults, and I shall be glad to recommend this depilatory to any readers who hava this trouble to contend with. At this season of the year women are very apt to slip a loose garment over their short-sleeve blouse and run across to a neighbor's. This practice will chap the hands and arms and leave them in a bad condition. One of the best pomades for chapped hands and arms is made as follows: Cocoa butter. 1 ounce: oil of street almonds. 1 ounce: oxide of zinc. 1 drachm: borax, 1 drachm; oil of bcrgamot. 6 drops. Heat the cocoa butter and oil of almonds In a double boiler and when thoroughly mixed add to them the zinc and borax. Stir until it Is quite cool and then add the bcrgamot. The oxide of zinc in this pomade is very healing. Hub it well into the bands and arms at tall and thin appearance. while touches of velvet about the bodice will always make any dress becoming to the girl who is burdened with a sallow skin. Styles for misses should be chosen as those for their mothers, and that is according to their respective figures. The girl who is slim should select a skirt with some fullness about the hips. This little afternoon frock Is essentially one for the young girl without hips, as there is sufficient full ness both in the skirt and blouse to jrive her an easy, graceful effect, and the epaulets give her breadth of shoul der line. It would require seven yards of cashmere or henrietta to make this ilross with the ruffles. A word ns to colors for these house dresses. Avoid bright reds they are of the long ago, and today we see in their stead soft browns, shading from mustard and topaz down to the rich seal brown: innumerable blues that are rich In tone with silvery sheens, dull greens that can be livened up with vel vet and lace, but no bright, flaring shades to dazzle the eye. Indeed, all colors have almost a faded appear ance, so soft are they in tone. A neat and practical utility suit is also pictured, and made of dark blue serge nothing could be more useful and glvo better results for a little expendi ture of money. A feature about this particular model' is that it buttons close to the throat and thus eliminates the need of furs except in very severe weather. It is an exceptionally stylish model for school wear, and could be developed In such goods as cheviot, tweeds or any novelty suiting. Cordu roy makes a charming dress of this model, and for the girl who is. out of doors- much the goods is highly com mended, it will stand the test of many storms and any amount of hard usage to which every school girl submits her clothes. A suggestion which might help out would be to make it up of copper brown homespun material. Have straps made of brown taffeta of a darker shade, while the collar might be evolved from velvet of a shade matching the taffeta bands. Silk braid might also be used instead of taffeta for strappings, with velvet buttons for combination. With a coat suit one needs many waists, or at the very least two are required, one of dark goods and one of softer and daintier material. The pret ty shirtwaist shown today was made of white china silk. The fullness is laid in pleats and breadth is given to" the blouse by extending the trimming over the shoulder. Young girls are not as careful with their clothes as those of us who are older, and hence a'ma terial that will stand an occasional visit to the tub is to be commended. The model could be made up In dark silk, trimmed with Persian trimming, which is much used and very attractive for a utility waist Many young girls are made absolute ly unhappy because their parents never seem to think they have ideas of their own. It really matters very Jittle to the average mother whether her young daughter wears a brown or a green dress, while to the average ejrl it is a vital question. I knew a girl who was 24 years old before she was allowed to select a dress of the color and style she wanted, and that dress was to her an event. Give the young folks a chance to say at least what color they want, and humor their little fancies as much as you can with in reason for things that to us seem mere trifles are to them mountains of disappointments. Pretty Arms night if they are chapped, and you will have good results. Many simple exercises are good for the development of the forearm 1 staple pulley rigged up on the back of your w?re LSuh7,800d' and such "ercises were published several weeks ago. One size o'f8,'81 meth,dS f '""'"g tne extend t0"'" ls t0 stand ect and the hnJ OUt 8tra'sht. closing the hand tightly over some object like a IJL IS . thi" extenled raise the fore ?h !rJ. ? AOUCQ.th .moulder and Dositlon tm . 6 r'Sl outstretched tovV nr 7 , '? reaIIy on o th best was of developing the muscles of both ex. IT8 a."d Upper arms- Another simple back oSfe the nvClaSP,the hands -t thai the neck- working the two elbows theL m4Ch. " P'le. Both of! i. exercles huld be taken in a! beenerfm,ovedand i Some women . much flesh on the forea and to them with h," y S,ay that c"tant scrubbing with hot water and a rough brush will help them more than anything hrn.T.i ng" the flesh is also veVJ bfnef.cUl as" ea8v?nm8,hebreak,UP th5 Palc7es fat! dUlon Th T mre pllable con dition. The woman who has a verv ?itt?n,a,rm BhUM al5 aV0W tightly fitting sleeves, as thev nni attention to the .leofhrarm 1 sleeve will hide the size Ind "elieXe th redness very much. relieve the In connection with the cr timeClShn, tha a luCc"haonughPtr0aPnea time should of course be given to ihZ hands and nails, for they are vlry tapor tant adjuncts to a woman's beauty T in deed schools are now established which Ind , WKmen to Use tnelr ha" Properly and to help remold the shape of both th. hand and each individual finger. i WIH take-up the care of the hand In a fVure Tasty Dishes From Cheap Meats IN this day of soaring meat prices tha housewife must summon all her in genuity to stretch her usual allowance for meat over the seven days of the week. Many women who have a really comfortable income now serve meat on the table but once a day, and if Kthe menus are properly planned, very attrac tive breakfasts and luncheons can be served without meat, which is reserved for dinner. So-called vegetable and Italian paste dishes, enriched with meat stock, or beef essence, are also served In the place of a regulation meat dish. Many women who once depended upon steaks, chops and other choice pieces of beef meat easy to prepare, have been obliged of late to fall back on cheaper cuts. Herein lies the danger for tha fam- lly palate. Cheap cuts must be prepared with Infinite care or they are flavorless and unpalatable. Slow cooking over a low Are, with carefully selected flavor ing Is the secret of success in handling all cheap cuts of meat. Here are some suggestions worth following: Beef Stew with Vegetables Buy lean beef, cut from the rump or round, or cross rib, without any bones and Just a little fat. Cut these in pieces about three Inches long and an inch wide and thick. Roll in a mixture of flpur, pepper and salt; have ready In a hot skillet plenty of drippings slice into this a small onion, cook until golden brown. Lay in the beef carefully so that you can turn it as It browns. When it is a rich brown color on all sides, remove to a kettle, add an equal amount of raw potatoes and carrots (that is, as much carrots and potatoes together as you have meat). The potatoes and carrots should be cut in good-sized dice, not too small. Now In the skillet you should have left some drippings. If there are not enough to cover the bottom of the pan, add a little butter, rub into this all the flour the drippings will absorb, add slowly milk and water, half and half, to make a thin creamy gravy, pour this over the meat potatoes and carrots (there should be enough to completely cover the meat and vegetables), set far back on the stove and simmer gently for two or three hours, adding at the finish some finely chopped parsley, and If you have any cold vegetables like peas or beans, cut them fine and add. Also, If you have It on hand you can use soup stock Instead of the milk and water, which makes a far more nourishing dish. A tablespoon ful of good wine added Just before serv ing gives it a snappy flavor suggestive of restaurant fare. Beefsteak with tomatoes, a new way of utilizing rump steak. Select rump steak one inch and a half thick, open a can of tomatoes and turn them gently Into a co lander. The Juice will run through Into a stewpan set under the colander and leave some large pieces of tomatoes in the upper vessel. Spread your rump steak on a platter or meat board and gently lift the large pieces of tomatoes SKW AMD PRACTIIA1, fcTII.ITV SLIT. from the colander and arrange them on the steak like a filling. Scatter over this salt, pepper and bits of butter. Now roll it up and tie firmly with a cord, lay it in the pan, spread bits of butter on top or overlay It with very thin slices of bacon or salt pork. Pour around the pan the tomato Juice that drained from the colander, some meat stock If you have it, bits of butter, and over all dredge lightly a little flour. Bake at least an hour longer if the steak is very large, basting frequently. . Minced Meat Buy two pounds of veal, lean beef or mutton, cut out bone. Simmer gently In only enough water to cover it, with sliced onions and carrots to give it a flavor. Remove the meat from the broth, run through a meat chopper or mince finely. This should make about one pint of solid meat. Season with pepper and salt, add one pint of finely-chopped raw potatoes," pour off and strain a cup of the water in which the meat was cooked. Add this to the mixture of meat and pota toes, turn Into a baklng-dlsh, scatter bread crumbs over the top and bake In a moderate oven for one hour. A noted Pennsylvania cook varies this recipe as follows: She butters a deep baking-pan, places in the bottom a lay er of mushed potatoes, one of chopped meat, one of canned tomatoes, chopped so that there are no big pieces. Then comes another layer of meat, another of tomatoes with mashed potatoes on top. This she bakes a golden brown In the oven. Mock Duck. Pound well a round steak that ls cut about half an inch thick. Spread over It a dressing as follows: Put In a frying-pan a lump of butter the size of an egg, a tea spoonful of grated onion and a pinch of sage. Mix well a pint of bread crumbs, moistened with one egg. When the butter is very hot put it in, stir and turn slightly brown. Spread the Bteak, roll up and fasten with a few etltches. Stick with strips of fat ba con, dredge with pepper, salt and flour. Put in a dripping-pan with a little water and baste frequently. Bake an hour In a moderate oven and serve with a gravy made of the water in the pan thickened with flour. Slice this with out unrolling. , Gloves. They're mostly long. White ls not dead. Suede rivals the glace. ' As a rule gloves match. They match dresses of pretty colors. At- times they match the accessories. But don't wear bright green gloves, whatever they match. In many Instances black or tan gloves to match shoes and hat are stunning. A report received at Pekln from Chang Ting Tang, the Chinese resident of Lhassa, tells of the eatabliahinent of a native news paper. ,the first one aver printed 1 1" lia Thibetan language. IT IS quite natural that youth should . feel intolerant of age. Youth has every possibility ap parently within Its grasp. Age has either wasted, lost or exhausted the same possibilities. Youth thinks that It has the world at Its feet but it is a very bad idea to make "public announce ment of the fact until you have a firm grip on the world's throat, so to speak. Every youth ls a modern edition of Monte Crlsto, in crying, "The world is mine," but unfortunately his feet stand, not on the rock of accomplishment, but upon the slippery sands of fair , hopes. Quite generally age smiles tolerant ly upon youth and its claims. Some times, however, youth by action rather than by words, becomes so offensive that tolerance would be a crime. All this as a preface to a little story. The other evening in New York City, where half the theater-going world uses a subway railway to go home after the play, one of the stations was crowded with well-dressed men and women, yonng, middle-aged and old, who had been enjoying the even ing at various theaters. Into this or derly, quiet crowd plunged a hundred or more freshmen and sophomores from a local college. They had been across the river on some sort of a college lark In which the sophomores had been badly worsted. The freshmen were Jubilant- As the train drew into the station the young men. every one nearer 20 than 16, formed a flying wedge and scattered the theater-goers, capturing the most desirable seats on the train. One particularly broad-shouldered man in evening clothes, accompanied by a well-gowned young woman, resented the conduct of the flying wedge and putting his broad Bhoulders against part of it, literally carried his lady fair Into the car, while other theater goers fell back in dismay. One of the college youths stumbled, caught his feet in the train of the woman's gown and there was a rip, a crash, and a resounding slap on the collegian's face. i Of course, it very nearly ended in a riot, and even some of the older theater-goers said the man was wrong to make so futile and spectacular a stand against the college crowd. But, after all, why did he not have some rights on that train? Why should those monkeyed youths In rough sweaters, mud-covered shoes, silly caps and reeking pipes pre-empt a train for which orderly men and wom en had paid their fares before the arrival of the college crowd? Was there anything courteous, chlv alric or gentlemanly in their conduct? Were they a credit to their alma mater? The next morning papers, whose re porters had heard the story, roasted the collegians, but did the lesson carry any weight? Not at all. The boys seemed rather proud of being exploited as having captured a theater train like the 20th century bandits they are. At a matinee performance of a pop ular play, ' I noticed two parties of young girls. One consisted of eight pupils from a fashionable school in the suburbs, attended by a school chap eron. They were quietly dressed, had seatB In the body of the house, and filed in orderly fashion down the aisle. During the intermissions they chatted quietly In their seats and left the house as quietly as they had come, without attracting the least attention. The other party of ten girls filled two boxes. Instead of coming together they met in the lobby of the theater, arriving one or two at a time.. They fluttered about like a group of gay plumaged birds. , They wore all sorts of flowers, from violets to American Beauty roses. They had boxes upon boxes of bon bons. They leaned across The Secrets of M Y HIPS are too large," "My bust is too high," "I am so short-walsted!" "I cannot wear my corsets In the house, as they hurt me." Such are the cries that reach me in numbers every day. And to all these writers I can only cay the same thing your corsets afe all wrong. It is a most remarkable fact that women will save and pinch on the most important article of their ward robe, an article that will make or mar their whole appearance, and that most important article of dress is nothing more nor less than a properly fitted cor set. A corset that fits you represents the correct foundation for modish gowns and gives to every woman a style, ease and grace that no amount of good clothes could give to her if worn over an ill-fltting corset that pinches In one place and bulges in another. Nine out of ten women will go Into a shop and say, "Give me a white cor set, size 26-inch." ana then take the one that an indifferent clerk puts be fore them at a reasonable price. There are today hundreds of models on the market, and no matter what your fig ure is, you can be fitted. If you are tall and thin, then you want a long walsted corset, with a high bust that will make the most of what you have. If Nature has not blessed you with any hips, then buy a corset that is cut high In the hip line, which will give full play to whatv little you have. The stout woman should wear a cor set boned with real whalebone, made with bias seams and ample gores; a long model that will reduce any ab dominal protuberance, with twe sets of garters on them. One set must be sewed on immediately in front, and the other set directly over the hips. These garters should be of the strong est elastic, about an inch and a half wide and buttoned onto the stockings. Many stout women find best results from the corset that laces In front, and such models are to be purchased for 5 up. From ? to 15 is little enough for a stout woman to pay for a corset, for she must have it made of good material and real bones. If you pay that amount of money for a corset the shop will nt. it to you, taking in and letting out In places where any alterations may be necessary. I wish I might impress upon my readers the vital necessity of this investment if they wish to have their clothes look well and keep their figures trim. It is an Idle boast to say "I've worn this make of corset ever since I was a girl." Your flgur has changed, the styles have been Improved and you should take advantage of the oppor tunity to Improve with the age. Stick to the friends you made when you were a girl, read the books that were writ ten then, but buy the most up-to-date corset that the shops offer, and have It fitted to your figure. Many stout women take their corsets the railings of the boxes and made audible comments during the perform ance, and between the acts they prom enaded all over the theater. They sent the ushers on errands and Joked with the little lad who served ice-water. Now, if you had been in that theater, which one of these parties would you have selected as the girls accustomed to matinee parties? Which group of girls would you really have admired? Loud dressing, loud talking and loud ew Sailor Model. - laughing are the trade-marks of the Ill-bred girl. It may "be a pleasant sensation to discover that you are the center of interest in a theater, on a crowded train, or in a restaurant, but I wonder if you would find the sensa tion so pleasant if in addition to see ing the interested faces around you, you might hear what the owners of the faces were saying to their compan ions? "Too bad such a pretty girl should be so underbred, isn't it?" "The youth of today is a trifle too exuberant, don't you think so? Like a vividly-colored chromo, which jars on the nerves." Happiness agleam In bright eyes, pleasure and animal spirits rippling to the surface In quiet laughter, strength and enthusiasm expressed in good carriage, brisk steps, animated conversation, these are not offensive, to any one, but talking at the top of your voice in hopes that your remarks will amuse an entire car full of peo ple, laughter that Is strident and forced. Just so that the world may know what a good time you are hav ing, shoving your way to the most conspicuous place in a public convey ance or theater or restaurant these are evidences not of happy youth, but of ungentle breeding, bad home train ing and a hopeless lack of naturally high ideals and instincts. a Good Figure off when in the house, and nothing will Increase flesh more than such a practice. "But they hurt me," they argue. No corset that fits you ever hurts you. It is a support that you would never go without if you could but realize it. A corset that fits you will rest you, and you will never want to remove it except as you go to bed at night. I will be glad to suggest models for various figures to any of my readers upon a request and in closed stamp and self-addressed en velope, and believe me, it is the most Important factor towards making your clothes look well and giving you a modish figure. MARY DEAN. , Is Mnn Beautiful? Artists say he is. They say he's woman's peer. Let's write that peer thus: p-eer. It Is hinted his shape is much better. It ls declared his face is more beautiful. Of his figure one pleads Innocence, not having been inclined to haunt the beach during bathing hours. But his face there's no pleading ignor ance about that more or less exposed part of his anatomy. And how he does pamper It! Is he chlnless? Then he goes In for a moat virile Vandyke beard. Is his mouth cruel or weak? Why, all he has to do is to drape It with the most becamlng cut of mustache. Is the lower part of his face out of th beauty race? That doesn't phase him. H , grows a patriarchal beard. And all this isn't meantlonlng his hair. Ah, the poetic possibilities of lengthy tresses that tempt sympathetic fingers as well as the breezes. Shear these oft and the feminine followers of many an Idol would flee. Acroits the Land. Baltimore Sun. Across the land at morn he went whom We had watched and kept. So like a Illy when ahe woke, a rose leal when she slept; Across the land when nlfrht had flown and all the skies were still. She passed Into the light that lay upon the wakening hill: Across the land at morn she went whom we had failed to keep. So like a glory when awake, a shadow when asleep: No breath of moaning or distress, but soft as step of dawn The rustle of the wings of white her spirit had put on! Across the land at morn she went, nor had we any thought Of such a change, of such a strange, sad difference it wrought; For. dumb we look across the land whose glory was cur light As If the day had changed to gra.y and noon were as the night! Across the land at morn she went, and morn is morn no more. The dawn, the dew, the bird, the bloom. not as they were before; Across the land at morn she went, and with her went the gleam That filled our home, that filled our hearts, with Joy and song and dream! The Siamese regard uneven numbers as very unlucky.