THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN. PORTLAND. OCTOBER 27, 1907.
Ill 1 (f-ST0 &PtMJTf :
SUPPLENESS THE KEY NOTE OF THE GOWN FOR FALL WEAR
THE word suppleness scarcely does
justice to the new models, par
ticularly the skirts. They must
cling to the figure, and the woman who
wears them must have no hips: The
house and evening gown must be long,
so long, indeed, that it falls on the floor
at least two inches in front and several
more in the immediate back. It is so
cut that it has little fullness at the top,
and that little is laid In very flatly
stitched pleats, and as it, descends it
widens, but does not flare, falling in soft
straight folds. Under the skirts only
one petticoat of thin material is allowed
In addition to the drop skirt which forms
the lining, and, indeed, many of these
drop linings are made of soft satin held
back by elastics, allowing little or no
fullness until well below the knees.
The gown of a slight princess effect
Is still popular, and one in rather modi
fled lines is shown today. The soft drap
ing of the waist lends becoming lines to
the thin girl, and the model combines
the new musquetalre sleeve now so much
worn. To give our readers an idea of
the amount of material needed for such
a dress I would say that for a woman of
medium size It would require About 15
yards of silk, 18 inches wide, for the
body of the dress, while for the drapery
n the waist and sleeves it would re
quire about three- yeards of double-width
chiffon or net. You cannot make a gown
In these days with a small pattern. It is
essentially a season of elaborateness and
detatl, both of which consume goods. A
short pattern will make you a stinted
dress that will look passe the first time
you put it on.
The reign of the jumper has been long,
and while we are told that the kimono
sleeve will last, we welcome something
that la a relief from the regulation cut,
and one which will still give us the long
shoulder effect. Bretelles of .various de
signs bid fair to become popular, and they
have the double advantage of being fash
ionable and at the same time becoming.
In these days of hand embroidery they
give the girl who is clever w:lth her needle
a splendid chance to put some of her
fancy work to practical advantage. Made
in panne velvet with embroidery or braid
ing, the effect Is beautiful. The model
which is pictured today was of old blue
chiffon, wlille the bretelles were of very
dark blue panne velvet, braided with
soutache braids in soft shades of blue,
harmonlxlng with the waist, and a little
yoke was Inset of real filet lace, the rose
pattern outlined with filo floss of the
same shades.
The evening gowns of today are so
elaborate that every woman needs must
have a long loose coat to cover them.
Those of the Japanese effect are, both
practical and becoming. They are very
easily made at home, as there is practi
cally no fitting to be done. For general
evening wear white broadcloth is to be
commended, and the model shown per
mits of as much elaboration as your purse
will allow. This style coat Is also splen
did for any extra outside garment for
street wear, and for such purpose should
be made up in dark-colored cloth.
It seems incredible that brown, after
having been worn for over a year, should
still be by far the most popular color of
the season. We see it everywhere, in
all gowns from the smartest tallorrhade
to the most elaborate of evening gowns.
The new striped goods with brown and
black alternating give one a sort of zebra
like effect, yet withal the combination Is
very stunning and popular for walking
costumes. House dresses of brown cash
meres in old gold and copper brown are
most useful and becoming, while some of
the most gorgeous theater dresses are
made up of dark brown chiffon over
white foundation, trimmed with gold lace,
brown embroidery and hand embroidered
laces. The newest shade of brown seen
within the last two or three weeks is
CHATS WITH HALF-GROWN-UPS
TO THE girl or boy whose education
In table manners has been neg
lected, the first Invitation to break
bread with a household whose good man
ners are oftlmes confounded with "style,"
Is Indeed fraught with terror.
"Knives, forks and spoons never looked
o formidable to me as they did at my
.first dinner at college," said a young
womkn now occupying a position In a
fashionable private school. 'I was a
country-bred girl, whose one idea of an
education consisted of books and their
contents. I earned my college money,
and no examination ever caused me the
sinking sensation within that the sight
of that pretty dining-room did on the
night of my first day in the college.
Believe me, for a few .weeks I considered
the study of knives, forks and spoons
more Important than Greek, Latin or
mathematics."
So many young people neglect man
ners for what they deem more impor
tant matters, that their table manners
are really as offensive as inexcusable.
First, after having received your in--vltation,
answer it promptly. If you ac
cept, ascertain whether It is a dinner
with the family alone, and if so, whether
It Is their custom to dress elaborately
for dinner. If this is the case, a man
must wear evening clothes, a girl a
pretty frock, skirt and blouse the same,
with at least a Dutch neck, something
dainty and airy preferred. A shirtwaist
or a tailored silk blpuse is an insult to
your hostess.
If the 'dinner Is formal, a girl must
wear a frock with a slight train, a low
cut neck and gloves.
In some homes at very formal dinners
you receive cards indicating who is to
be your dinner partner. In this case the
man addresses his partner after greeting
his hostess, and offers his arm when din
ner is announced. However, this is a
formal custom which-is not generally ob
served. A few -words from the hostess
are sufficient to indicate which girl the
man is to escort to dinner, the arm is not
offered, but the guests follow the hostess
to the dinning room, where plate cards
indicate the seats.
The manner of sitting at the table is
most important. Thanks to some clever
illustrators, the habit of sitting with el
bows on the table is generally condoned,
but this does not mean that you can sit
with your chair rather far from the table
and your back in a bow. Sit moderately
close to the table and hold yourself erect.
Between courses and with the coffee ser
vice one often leans on the table, but not
In exaggerated fashion.
Never offer to pass anything, save
salted nuts or similar dishes, at a table
where a maid or butler serves.
Do not play, with your knife, fork,
spoon or the salt cellars, etc. 'If you are
nervous and must fiddle with your
lingers, roll a corner of your napkin
where It is out of sight on your lap. This
may sound absurd to the experienced
. diner-out, but I know girls and men who
'have been saved agonies of nervousness
by recourse to this very trick. Physical
movement la often a safety-valve .for
known as "dust," and combined with
trimmings of yellowish tinge, the effect
is beautiful.
The fitted cutaway coat seems to have
replaced the Beml-fitted coat that was
worn so much during the Spring and
strained nerves, and to the uninitiated
the strain of a first formal dinner Is ter
rific. By the handling of their knives, forks
and spoons are young people often
Judged. There are two ways of holding
a fork, and two only. First, if you are
cutting meat or anything that requires
the use of both knife and fork, you turn
the fork with the points downward, hold
ing It on the upper part of the handle,
never In the middle or near the prongs.
The knife must also be held near the end
of the handle. If you are using your
fork to raise food to your Hps, then it
must be turned over with the prongs up
ward. If you are eating from the fork,
peas, potatoe-. or any other vegetable
(and Just now nearly all vegetables are
eaten with a fork instead of a spoon),
you must take them from the side of the
fork, never, never thrusting the end of
the fork Into your mouth. Salad is cut
with the side of the fork, and then eaten
from the side of the fork. Fish, soft'
entres, and, in fact, anything that does
not absolutely demand the use of a knife,
are separated Into small . pieces by the
use of the fork, which is most excellent,
as the knife, at Its best. Is a most un
gainly utensil.
Never mash your food with your fork
Nourishing School Luncheons
I BELIEVE my nervous breakdown at
school was the result of nothing more
nor less than dried beef Bandwiches," said
a high school pupil who was recuperating
at a sanitarium. "Ourmaid never seemed
to have time to make any sort of sand
wiches except dried beef, the supply of
which never failed."
How many girls have paid just such a
price for monotonous carelessly-prepared
school luncheons! And not always Is the
maid to .blame. Mothers are very care
less In this matter, and when a mother Is
very busy she should train the daughter
to take a little time each morning for
the preparation of her luncheon, as time
thus spent Is a good investment.
All girls and boys going to school
crave something sweet, and unless it is
supplied by the home luncheon, they will
buy it from cheap confectionery shops,
peddlers, etc. Old cups that have no
handles can be used to hold little pud
dings, and these will serve as an ap
.petlzlng sweet in any lunch basket.
Ginger bread of the soft kind Is nourish
ing and liked by all children, while ba
nanas are perhaps the most nourishing
fruit that can be purchased. They should
be ripe, however, and not have any
green ends.
A good molasses ginger bread is made
as follows:
One cup of .molasses, one cup or su
gar, two tablespoons butter melted and
mixed with the molasses,' one cup of
boiling water, one heaping teaspoon soda,
dissolved In the water. Let the water
cool before adding to the molasses; three
Summer, and the woman of good figure
should welcome the fashion, as it shows
her to best advantage. The stouter
woman should cling to the eton in modi
fled lines, while the extremely thin girl
should select a loose jacket on. the kimono
and never sit with your fork or knife
upraised like a telegraph pole. When
not in use, either knife or fork must be
laid on the plate at one side. Never tilt
your fork and knife on the sides of your
plate, that is with the handle on the
tablecloth on either side and the tips on
the edge of -the plate. Every time' a
course Is removed, lay the knife, fork
or spoon used in the eating it on the
side of the plate. Do not cross knife and
fork on the plate, bat lay them side by
side.
In eating soup, custard, fruit, or any
dish which demands a spoon, be sure you
sip the food noiselessly from the side of
the spoon, never from the tip. Never
dip your individual fork pr spoon into a
dish that Is passed to you, but always
employ the .fork or spoon which .will be
found on the tray beside the dish, or on
the dish itself.
All sorts of small relishes, like radishes,
olives, salted nuts and bon-bons, are
eaten from the Angers, but this must be
done very daintily. '
cups of flour and one teaspoonful ginger.
Make a rice pudding without eggs and
add raisins to it and bake In old cups
instead of a large pudding dish, and you
will find that tne school children will
be delighted to take one In their lunch
basket. Make" a bread pudding with
raisins and an egg to give It a semblance
of custard, and bake this in the cups.
A nice cup custard can be made also,
receipt for which is given herewith.
Beat up four eggs and one small cup
of sugar and pour over one quart of
warm milk, flavor with lemon, and If
nutmeg is liked grate a little on top.
Fill cups and stand in a pan of boiling
water and bake about 15 minutes.
Avoid the dried-beef sandwich. If there
is no cold meat In the house left over
from last night's dinner, then try a
few of the- following receipts. Nuts are
very nourishing, and combined with
something else are very appetising. You
must cater to the children Just as you
do to the elders, for their health is a
matter of no small, concern, and their
nervous little bodies should be well fed.
Just as much as those of the tired
parents.
New Ham Sandwiches. Mince finely
some cold boiled ham and add to it
about half the quantity of finely-chopped
peanuts. For every cupful of ham add
a tablespoonful of chopped pickles, and
If convenient a little chopped celery. Mix
to a good paste with salad dressing and
spread on thin slices of white bread.
Nut and Date. Sandwiches. Wash, pit
and finely chop one pound of dates and
add to them an equal amount of chipped
nuts. Any kind that you have will
order. It is really a great art to know
Just what style is becoming to your par
ticular figure, and this comes only-from
experience. One of the best dressed
women of New York never wears any
thing but a toque that is very high on
answer. Wet with a little lemon Juice
or sour cherry Juice and spread on bread.
Don'ts tot This Season.
Don't buy a purple dress, however
the fashionable color may appeal to
your fancy, if you have a sallow skin.
Purple brings out every complexion defect
unmercifully. Better get a delicate tint
with a "bit of purple in the trimming.
Don't buy a huge mushroom hat, with
rim turned down in a circle, if you have
a moon-shaped face. Better far to give
your hat an upward 'tilt on one side and
a droop on the other, breaking the round
effect.
Don't buy a' feather-trimmed hat if
you can afford but one piece of dressy
headgear. A hat trimmed with coque
sprays, peacock aigretties or something
of that sort is. better than feathers for
the single hat.
Don't Jump straight from your round
toed, commonsense shoes into the new
pin-point shoes. Make the change
gradually if to pin-point shoes you must
come, and be sure to stuff the points
with cotton or tissue paper.
Don't buy a plaid silk Just because
it looks lovely in the shop window. A
big plaid makes the stout woman look
larger, and she must fall back on a small,
almost invisible check for her tailored
suit and have that finished only with
stitching.
Don't buy a lot of cheap trimming
for your best frock. Trimmings this sea
son are extremely handsome or extremely
dowdy. .Select. the handsome trimming,
and use only a little of it on your blouse
or bodice, leaving the skirt, plain and
with good lines.
Don't forget that the Jeweled button
is in great demand this season. Imita
tion amethysts are used on purple and
mauve gowns, topazes on browns, em
eralds on green, sapphires on blue, and
rhinestones or pearls on black and white,
MARY DEAN.
Exaltation of Mary Ann.
Lurana'W. Sheldon.
When our friendship first began
Her name was simply Mary Ann.
In childish flights we used to soar
Beyond each homely farmhouse door
But that, you know, was long before
Her dad grew rich.
When our courtship first began
She was still plain Mary Ann,
Then our youthful fancies flew
Par from all our childhood knew
This before her daddy grew
Still richer.
When our silence first began
She became Miss Marie Anne.
Now no more our visions blend
All my hopes are at an end
I am a forgotten friend
Pa's made his pile.
A Welcome.
. McLandburgh Wilson.
Though your pranks on some occasions
Were quite bad.
To the gayety of nations
You will add.
Though too personal your questions
Oft would get.
Roosevelt would regulate us
Closer yet.
Thus Immured,' your little drawbacks
May go hang.
And you are sersona grata,
Wu Ting-Faug.
one side and falls very low on the fore
head. She is a woman who has millions
at her command, but says that she has
tried every known style of millinery and
this is the only one that becomes her,
and hence she never changes just to be in
BEAUTIES
IN these days. It is an exploded the
ory to think that a pretty mouth
and lovely teeth are a matter of
foreordinatlon. It takes time, I grant
you, and perhaps the expenditure of
several dollars, but the time is well
spent and the money well invested In
such a cause. It is around the mouth
that age shows first in a woman, and
hence that Is the part of the face that
should be .well cared for.
Cultivate smiles, for these keep the
lines softened and help to hide old age.
Habitual pouting enlarge and coarsens
the under lip, and all the unconscious
tricks of facial expressions Increase
and deepen the lines. In positive mal
formations, of course, a surgeon
should be consulted, but the slight de
fects can be largely relieved at home.
Stand before a mirror and "try on"
present expression just as you would
a new bonnet. Try and try again, al
ways looking in the glass. Strive to
attain a smile that , shows your teeth,
for the whiteness of them will lend
brightness to an otherwise dull face.
All this may seem very foolish, but
a well: practiced and sweet smile will
conquer many Ills and take years off
a hardened, much troubled face. Foi
those who are troubled with very thick
Hps an astringent pomade should ba
used, and I will gladly send such a
formula to any of my readers upon, re
quest, while those women who have
rather thin lips should coax them by
rubbing In glycerine and rosewater
the best lotion that I know of for that
purpose.
The teeth must be pretty if the
smile is to be an effective one, and too
much care cannot be given them. No
matter how ugly your teeth are by
nature' it Is only a matter of a few
dollars and cents to make fhem beau
tiful, for dentistry has accomplished
great things In the past few years.
In advising a woman how to keep
her mouth .-young, I would say, mas
sage is the easiest cure obtainable.
For this there are simple exercises.
Always press outward and upward at
the corners of the mouth, pressing the
thumbs at the opposite corners of the
mouth and gently pushing upward, thus
helping to form the cupid's bow so
much desired. Another very good
movement is to place three fingers of
each 'hand upon the tip of your chin,
pressing hard "into the flesh and grad
ually but firmly work them upward
and outward up to the middle of your
cheeks.
One point not to be neglected by
women of 30 and , over is to prevent
the corners of the mouth from sag
ging. At that age the muscles are apt
to relax, and this should be guarded
against. A simple exercise to prevent
this fault. is holding water in the mouth
for a few moments, while another is
filling the mouth with air and holding
it. Both of these exercises discipline
the muscles. Yawning is also very
good for stiffened muscles.
A letter from one of my correspon
dents tells me that she has been using
pumice stone on her teeth every day
fashion at the cost of her beauty. It is
a good general rule to go by. Select
things that are becoming rather than
those at the height of fashion, always
keeping within bounds of general styles.
In these days of many models this is
OF MOUTH AND TEETH
for four months, and yet they are not
white. Nothing can be worse than
such heroic treatment. Her yellow
teeth are probably caused by some or
ganic trouble, and that must be cured
before the whiteness returns to the
teeth. Make a practice of going to
the dentist twice a year and have him
Clean your teeth "with pumice and re
move all the tartar, and then brush
them yourself morning and evening
with hot water and a good dentifrice
which your dentist will be glad to rec
ommend. Going over your teeth with
a little peroxide in the water will make
them shine, and nothing Is prettier
than a set of glistening teeth between
two rosy . Hps. If glycerine and rose
water do not agree with your lips, then
try pure almond oil. Some very tender
lips cannot stand the effect of glycer
ine. Artificial dimples are not easily se
cured, though in Paris where greater
risks are taken by the women who
want to be beautiful, they do it every
day. Cutting a dimple in the chin is
rather a simple process, and little risk
is taken. With the cheeks, however,
it is quite a different story. The op
eration leaves a scar almost as often
as it produces the desired dimple, and
hence the practice is to be avoided.
Dimples come naturally in plump
cheeks, and the thing to do is to mas
sage your cheeks and try to fatten
Ideas in New
THE woman, that is fashionable to
day has no hips. The tall', thin
girl is the fad for the moment,
and those of us who are burdened with
flesh below the waist line must bend
all energies toward reducing it. How
to . do this is the vital question. First
of all, see that you wear a proper cor
set, one that fits you, one that holds
down the over-abundant flesh, and then
look well to your undergarments, par
ticularly your petticoats.
For the woman who is very stout a
tight-fitting Jersey petticoat is the only
style permissible. The top of the skirt
should be cut circular fashion, and made
to fit perfectly, without a wrinkle or
pleat of any kind. Have it rather large
in the waist line, so that it falls about
an inch or two below the band of your
outer skirt. On the Jersey top you can
sew a ruffle of silk of any desired shade
or combination of colors. Let the Jersey
portion come to the top of our shoes
and then add your silk ruffle.
Even the thin girl must try to look slim
about the hip line, and she con wear her
all-silk pettcoats on the street with very
full ruffles below the knees, but up .at
the top they must fit without fullness. If
you buy them ready made, then have
them fitted at home, so that there Is no
fullness about the Jiips. Then, too, some
girls cling to the old-fashioned habit of
wearing two skirts, and this is no longer
permissible. If one skirt is not warm
easily accomplished, for the long grace
ful lines now In prevalence are generally
becoming. A woman must spend only a
little time and thought on the selection
of that particular cut most becoming to
a particular figure.
Home, Sweet Home.
L. 8. Waterhouse.
After many hours of roaming I was seated
in the gloaming
In that place of places dearest to the in
most soul of man;
There was hardly air for breathing, but my
good cipar was wreathing;
Rings of pleasure the slncerest whan
the trouble first began.
In the middle of my dreaming; I was wak
ened by the screaming
Of a woman up above me In apartment
number nine;
She was trilling- In falsetto, sharper than a
new stlUeto,
Spmethlng similar to "Love me and thl
universe Is mine."
Next there came an awful bellow from thai
phonographic fellow
Who announces In staccato all tha tor
tures of the year:
Then the braxen horn got started, and the
agony Imparted
Had a fiddle obligato by some nuisance
In the rear.
While this bedlam still was raging; two big;
feline got to waging
Lively war upon some topic that required
much vocal power.
And .three husky pianolas loosened up their
Ivory molars.
While an' Infant, microscopic, howled In
concert for an hour.
After I had closed each casement in an
effort at efface men t
And Inserted numerous digits far within
my frenzied ears,
A cometlst just below me started merrily to
show me
How a man' can get the fidgets and be
liquified to tears.
But the one who knocked me senseless and
Just left me there defenseless
Was the urchlri who got busy with the
paper and a comb
For he added to that racket just as hard
as he could crack it
Jn a ragtime, weird and dizzy, that old
chestnut. "Home, Sweet Home."
Earth, the Beautiful.
Ninette M. Lowater In the New Toik Pun.
I watched alone the wonder of the. night '
The frozen moon, with lustrous, borrowed
light.
Trailing upon the lake her silver bars;
I saw the varying radiance if the stars
Pet jewellike In the great avure arch.
Tet ever moving with majestic march
To great Arcturus. throned upon the sky.
Viewing processions of the worlds wheel by.
And wondered If with equal, far seen grace.
Our planet In these mighty ranks keeps
place.
t
I saw the lesser beauties of the night
The fireflies, with their evanescent light,
Great moths, like pale hued. floating flowers
adrift.
Dense darkness where the columned trees
uplift
From earth their spreading canopies of
shade.
Where weak wild things may shelter un
afraid; Wide spreading fields, set diamondlike with
dew.
Marked with white roads like ribbons wind
ing through. .
And felt the touch of soft, sweet winds that
pass
So lightly that they scarcely bend the grass.
i
I heart! the tender voices of the night
The hum of creatures whom the day
affright;
The querulous katydid's incessant note.
The nutellke call from the shy Hyla'a
throat.
From the far ponds a faint, unchanging
drone.
To other sounds a eadenced undertone;
My heart grew faint and I felt tears arise.
So great the beauty of the earth and skies;
If there are worlds beyond for us to share.
If we forget not, will they seem more fair?
them, and then nature will send the
desired dimple.
The old saying is that dimples and
flushes go together, but old sayings
are not always true. Blushing is
largely a matter of practice and a re
sult of a good healthy skin. The worn,
an who lets her skin grow dull and
thick, with hardened musoles and the
corners of her mouth saggng, will
never find herself blushing; while th
girl who looks well to her' complexion
and her general health will And the
rosy flushes come easily.
Laugh as much as you can. Better
have a few tiny wrinkles about the.
eyes that massage will eliminate, than
to go about with a pouting face and
sagging mouth, and when you smile,
don't do It In an absent-minded man
ner. It Is one of woman's greatest
and strongest attraction that of - a
pleasant smile. Look at the person
you smile at, and practice showing
your teeth. There is quite a trick in
lifting the upper Hp, allowng the teeth
to s..ow. Stand in front of the glass
and practice it until you get Just th
right smile that will show two rowi
of glistening teeth,
Style Petticoats
enough, then you must line the top ol
your silk foundation with a lightweight
albatross nearly the color of your silk.
If, the silk petticoat lined with the
wool albatross is not sufficiently warm,
then you must get wool tights, but fllan
nel petticoats, with fullness about the
hips, are tabooed for this year at least.
For evening wear and all dressy oc
casions, the white lingerie petticoat has
taken the place of silk ones. These
dainty white skirts are made with lawn
tops fitting the figure perfectly, and
from the knee down they are elaborate in
the extreme, with frill upon frill of lace.
Insertion and handsome medallions. If
bought at the shop, the cost a fabulous
sum, but the clever home sewer can make
them for much less. Some of these
lingerie petticoats have a colored silk
flounce buttoned on under the lace
flounce, showing the color through. This
ruffle corresponds in color with the eve
ning gown worn. This Is a new idea just
brought over from Paris. ,
For morning wear with the short walk
ing skirt nothing is more serviceable
than mohair or moreen. Either of these
skirts can be purchased ready-made for
quite as little money as they could be
made up at home,, and by spending an
hour in refitting them at the top they
answer every purpose. On a rainy day
do" not wear a silk petticoat. Rather put
on a perfectly plain white muslin one that
can be thrown into the tub when soiled.
MfRY DEAN.