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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 27, 1907)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN. PORTLAND. OCTOBER 27, 1907. Ill 1 (f-ST0 &PtMJTf : SUPPLENESS THE KEY NOTE OF THE GOWN FOR FALL WEAR THE word suppleness scarcely does justice to the new models, par ticularly the skirts. They must cling to the figure, and the woman who wears them must have no hips: The house and evening gown must be long, so long, indeed, that it falls on the floor at least two inches in front and several more in the immediate back. It is so cut that it has little fullness at the top, and that little is laid In very flatly stitched pleats, and as it, descends it widens, but does not flare, falling in soft straight folds. Under the skirts only one petticoat of thin material is allowed In addition to the drop skirt which forms the lining, and, indeed, many of these drop linings are made of soft satin held back by elastics, allowing little or no fullness until well below the knees. The gown of a slight princess effect Is still popular, and one in rather modi fled lines is shown today. The soft drap ing of the waist lends becoming lines to the thin girl, and the model combines the new musquetalre sleeve now so much worn. To give our readers an idea of the amount of material needed for such a dress I would say that for a woman of medium size It would require About 15 yards of silk, 18 inches wide, for the body of the dress, while for the drapery n the waist and sleeves it would re quire about three- yeards of double-width chiffon or net. You cannot make a gown In these days with a small pattern. It is essentially a season of elaborateness and detatl, both of which consume goods. A short pattern will make you a stinted dress that will look passe the first time you put it on. The reign of the jumper has been long, and while we are told that the kimono sleeve will last, we welcome something that la a relief from the regulation cut, and one which will still give us the long shoulder effect. Bretelles of .various de signs bid fair to become popular, and they have the double advantage of being fash ionable and at the same time becoming. In these days of hand embroidery they give the girl who is clever w:lth her needle a splendid chance to put some of her fancy work to practical advantage. Made in panne velvet with embroidery or braid ing, the effect Is beautiful. The model which is pictured today was of old blue chiffon, wlille the bretelles were of very dark blue panne velvet, braided with soutache braids in soft shades of blue, harmonlxlng with the waist, and a little yoke was Inset of real filet lace, the rose pattern outlined with filo floss of the same shades. The evening gowns of today are so elaborate that every woman needs must have a long loose coat to cover them. Those of the Japanese effect are, both practical and becoming. They are very easily made at home, as there is practi cally no fitting to be done. For general evening wear white broadcloth is to be commended, and the model shown per mits of as much elaboration as your purse will allow. This style coat Is also splen did for any extra outside garment for street wear, and for such purpose should be made up in dark-colored cloth. It seems incredible that brown, after having been worn for over a year, should still be by far the most popular color of the season. We see it everywhere, in all gowns from the smartest tallorrhade to the most elaborate of evening gowns. The new striped goods with brown and black alternating give one a sort of zebra like effect, yet withal the combination Is very stunning and popular for walking costumes. House dresses of brown cash meres in old gold and copper brown are most useful and becoming, while some of the most gorgeous theater dresses are made up of dark brown chiffon over white foundation, trimmed with gold lace, brown embroidery and hand embroidered laces. The newest shade of brown seen within the last two or three weeks is CHATS WITH HALF-GROWN-UPS TO THE girl or boy whose education In table manners has been neg lected, the first Invitation to break bread with a household whose good man ners are oftlmes confounded with "style," Is Indeed fraught with terror. "Knives, forks and spoons never looked o formidable to me as they did at my .first dinner at college," said a young womkn now occupying a position In a fashionable private school. 'I was a country-bred girl, whose one idea of an education consisted of books and their contents. I earned my college money, and no examination ever caused me the sinking sensation within that the sight of that pretty dining-room did on the night of my first day in the college. Believe me, for a few .weeks I considered the study of knives, forks and spoons more Important than Greek, Latin or mathematics." So many young people neglect man ners for what they deem more impor tant matters, that their table manners are really as offensive as inexcusable. First, after having received your in--vltation, answer it promptly. If you ac cept, ascertain whether It is a dinner with the family alone, and if so, whether It Is their custom to dress elaborately for dinner. If this is the case, a man must wear evening clothes, a girl a pretty frock, skirt and blouse the same, with at least a Dutch neck, something dainty and airy preferred. A shirtwaist or a tailored silk blpuse is an insult to your hostess. If the 'dinner Is formal, a girl must wear a frock with a slight train, a low cut neck and gloves. In some homes at very formal dinners you receive cards indicating who is to be your dinner partner. In this case the man addresses his partner after greeting his hostess, and offers his arm when din ner is announced. However, this is a formal custom which-is not generally ob served. A few -words from the hostess are sufficient to indicate which girl the man is to escort to dinner, the arm is not offered, but the guests follow the hostess to the dinning room, where plate cards indicate the seats. The manner of sitting at the table is most important. Thanks to some clever illustrators, the habit of sitting with el bows on the table is generally condoned, but this does not mean that you can sit with your chair rather far from the table and your back in a bow. Sit moderately close to the table and hold yourself erect. Between courses and with the coffee ser vice one often leans on the table, but not In exaggerated fashion. Never offer to pass anything, save salted nuts or similar dishes, at a table where a maid or butler serves. Do not play, with your knife, fork, spoon or the salt cellars, etc. 'If you are nervous and must fiddle with your lingers, roll a corner of your napkin where It is out of sight on your lap. This may sound absurd to the experienced . diner-out, but I know girls and men who 'have been saved agonies of nervousness by recourse to this very trick. Physical movement la often a safety-valve .for known as "dust," and combined with trimmings of yellowish tinge, the effect is beautiful. The fitted cutaway coat seems to have replaced the Beml-fitted coat that was worn so much during the Spring and strained nerves, and to the uninitiated the strain of a first formal dinner Is ter rific. By the handling of their knives, forks and spoons are young people often Judged. There are two ways of holding a fork, and two only. First, if you are cutting meat or anything that requires the use of both knife and fork, you turn the fork with the points downward, hold ing It on the upper part of the handle, never In the middle or near the prongs. The knife must also be held near the end of the handle. If you are using your fork to raise food to your Hps, then it must be turned over with the prongs up ward. If you are eating from the fork, peas, potatoe-. or any other vegetable (and Just now nearly all vegetables are eaten with a fork instead of a spoon), you must take them from the side of the fork, never, never thrusting the end of the fork Into your mouth. Salad is cut with the side of the fork, and then eaten from the side of the fork. Fish, soft' entres, and, in fact, anything that does not absolutely demand the use of a knife, are separated Into small . pieces by the use of the fork, which is most excellent, as the knife, at Its best. Is a most un gainly utensil. Never mash your food with your fork Nourishing School Luncheons I BELIEVE my nervous breakdown at school was the result of nothing more nor less than dried beef Bandwiches," said a high school pupil who was recuperating at a sanitarium. "Ourmaid never seemed to have time to make any sort of sand wiches except dried beef, the supply of which never failed." How many girls have paid just such a price for monotonous carelessly-prepared school luncheons! And not always Is the maid to .blame. Mothers are very care less In this matter, and when a mother Is very busy she should train the daughter to take a little time each morning for the preparation of her luncheon, as time thus spent Is a good investment. All girls and boys going to school crave something sweet, and unless it is supplied by the home luncheon, they will buy it from cheap confectionery shops, peddlers, etc. Old cups that have no handles can be used to hold little pud dings, and these will serve as an ap .petlzlng sweet in any lunch basket. Ginger bread of the soft kind Is nourish ing and liked by all children, while ba nanas are perhaps the most nourishing fruit that can be purchased. They should be ripe, however, and not have any green ends. A good molasses ginger bread is made as follows: One cup of .molasses, one cup or su gar, two tablespoons butter melted and mixed with the molasses,' one cup of boiling water, one heaping teaspoon soda, dissolved In the water. Let the water cool before adding to the molasses; three Summer, and the woman of good figure should welcome the fashion, as it shows her to best advantage. The stouter woman should cling to the eton in modi fled lines, while the extremely thin girl should select a loose jacket on. the kimono and never sit with your fork or knife upraised like a telegraph pole. When not in use, either knife or fork must be laid on the plate at one side. Never tilt your fork and knife on the sides of your plate, that is with the handle on the tablecloth on either side and the tips on the edge of -the plate. Every time' a course Is removed, lay the knife, fork or spoon used in the eating it on the side of the plate. Do not cross knife and fork on the plate, bat lay them side by side. In eating soup, custard, fruit, or any dish which demands a spoon, be sure you sip the food noiselessly from the side of the spoon, never from the tip. Never dip your individual fork pr spoon into a dish that Is passed to you, but always employ the .fork or spoon which .will be found on the tray beside the dish, or on the dish itself. All sorts of small relishes, like radishes, olives, salted nuts and bon-bons, are eaten from the Angers, but this must be done very daintily. ' cups of flour and one teaspoonful ginger. Make a rice pudding without eggs and add raisins to it and bake In old cups instead of a large pudding dish, and you will find that tne school children will be delighted to take one In their lunch basket. Make" a bread pudding with raisins and an egg to give It a semblance of custard, and bake this in the cups. A nice cup custard can be made also, receipt for which is given herewith. Beat up four eggs and one small cup of sugar and pour over one quart of warm milk, flavor with lemon, and If nutmeg is liked grate a little on top. Fill cups and stand in a pan of boiling water and bake about 15 minutes. Avoid the dried-beef sandwich. If there is no cold meat In the house left over from last night's dinner, then try a few of the- following receipts. Nuts are very nourishing, and combined with something else are very appetising. You must cater to the children Just as you do to the elders, for their health is a matter of no small, concern, and their nervous little bodies should be well fed. Just as much as those of the tired parents. New Ham Sandwiches. Mince finely some cold boiled ham and add to it about half the quantity of finely-chopped peanuts. For every cupful of ham add a tablespoonful of chopped pickles, and If convenient a little chopped celery. Mix to a good paste with salad dressing and spread on thin slices of white bread. Nut and Date. Sandwiches. Wash, pit and finely chop one pound of dates and add to them an equal amount of chipped nuts. Any kind that you have will order. It is really a great art to know Just what style is becoming to your par ticular figure, and this comes only-from experience. One of the best dressed women of New York never wears any thing but a toque that is very high on answer. Wet with a little lemon Juice or sour cherry Juice and spread on bread. Don'ts tot This Season. Don't buy a purple dress, however the fashionable color may appeal to your fancy, if you have a sallow skin. Purple brings out every complexion defect unmercifully. Better get a delicate tint with a "bit of purple in the trimming. Don't buy a huge mushroom hat, with rim turned down in a circle, if you have a moon-shaped face. Better far to give your hat an upward 'tilt on one side and a droop on the other, breaking the round effect. Don't buy a' feather-trimmed hat if you can afford but one piece of dressy headgear. A hat trimmed with coque sprays, peacock aigretties or something of that sort is. better than feathers for the single hat. Don't Jump straight from your round toed, commonsense shoes into the new pin-point shoes. Make the change gradually if to pin-point shoes you must come, and be sure to stuff the points with cotton or tissue paper. Don't buy a plaid silk Just because it looks lovely in the shop window. A big plaid makes the stout woman look larger, and she must fall back on a small, almost invisible check for her tailored suit and have that finished only with stitching. Don't buy a lot of cheap trimming for your best frock. Trimmings this sea son are extremely handsome or extremely dowdy. .Select. the handsome trimming, and use only a little of it on your blouse or bodice, leaving the skirt, plain and with good lines. Don't forget that the Jeweled button is in great demand this season. Imita tion amethysts are used on purple and mauve gowns, topazes on browns, em eralds on green, sapphires on blue, and rhinestones or pearls on black and white, MARY DEAN. Exaltation of Mary Ann. Lurana'W. Sheldon. When our friendship first began Her name was simply Mary Ann. In childish flights we used to soar Beyond each homely farmhouse door But that, you know, was long before Her dad grew rich. When our courtship first began She was still plain Mary Ann, Then our youthful fancies flew Par from all our childhood knew This before her daddy grew Still richer. When our silence first began She became Miss Marie Anne. Now no more our visions blend All my hopes are at an end I am a forgotten friend Pa's made his pile. A Welcome. . McLandburgh Wilson. Though your pranks on some occasions Were quite bad. To the gayety of nations You will add. Though too personal your questions Oft would get. Roosevelt would regulate us Closer yet. Thus Immured,' your little drawbacks May go hang. And you are sersona grata, Wu Ting-Faug. one side and falls very low on the fore head. She is a woman who has millions at her command, but says that she has tried every known style of millinery and this is the only one that becomes her, and hence she never changes just to be in BEAUTIES IN these days. It is an exploded the ory to think that a pretty mouth and lovely teeth are a matter of foreordinatlon. It takes time, I grant you, and perhaps the expenditure of several dollars, but the time is well spent and the money well invested In such a cause. It is around the mouth that age shows first in a woman, and hence that Is the part of the face that should be .well cared for. Cultivate smiles, for these keep the lines softened and help to hide old age. Habitual pouting enlarge and coarsens the under lip, and all the unconscious tricks of facial expressions Increase and deepen the lines. In positive mal formations, of course, a surgeon should be consulted, but the slight de fects can be largely relieved at home. Stand before a mirror and "try on" present expression just as you would a new bonnet. Try and try again, al ways looking in the glass. Strive to attain a smile that , shows your teeth, for the whiteness of them will lend brightness to an otherwise dull face. All this may seem very foolish, but a well: practiced and sweet smile will conquer many Ills and take years off a hardened, much troubled face. Foi those who are troubled with very thick Hps an astringent pomade should ba used, and I will gladly send such a formula to any of my readers upon, re quest, while those women who have rather thin lips should coax them by rubbing In glycerine and rosewater the best lotion that I know of for that purpose. The teeth must be pretty if the smile is to be an effective one, and too much care cannot be given them. No matter how ugly your teeth are by nature' it Is only a matter of a few dollars and cents to make fhem beau tiful, for dentistry has accomplished great things In the past few years. In advising a woman how to keep her mouth .-young, I would say, mas sage is the easiest cure obtainable. For this there are simple exercises. Always press outward and upward at the corners of the mouth, pressing the thumbs at the opposite corners of the mouth and gently pushing upward, thus helping to form the cupid's bow so much desired. Another very good movement is to place three fingers of each 'hand upon the tip of your chin, pressing hard "into the flesh and grad ually but firmly work them upward and outward up to the middle of your cheeks. One point not to be neglected by women of 30 and , over is to prevent the corners of the mouth from sag ging. At that age the muscles are apt to relax, and this should be guarded against. A simple exercise to prevent this fault. is holding water in the mouth for a few moments, while another is filling the mouth with air and holding it. Both of these exercises discipline the muscles. Yawning is also very good for stiffened muscles. A letter from one of my correspon dents tells me that she has been using pumice stone on her teeth every day fashion at the cost of her beauty. It is a good general rule to go by. Select things that are becoming rather than those at the height of fashion, always keeping within bounds of general styles. In these days of many models this is OF MOUTH AND TEETH for four months, and yet they are not white. Nothing can be worse than such heroic treatment. Her yellow teeth are probably caused by some or ganic trouble, and that must be cured before the whiteness returns to the teeth. Make a practice of going to the dentist twice a year and have him Clean your teeth "with pumice and re move all the tartar, and then brush them yourself morning and evening with hot water and a good dentifrice which your dentist will be glad to rec ommend. Going over your teeth with a little peroxide in the water will make them shine, and nothing Is prettier than a set of glistening teeth between two rosy . Hps. If glycerine and rose water do not agree with your lips, then try pure almond oil. Some very tender lips cannot stand the effect of glycer ine. Artificial dimples are not easily se cured, though in Paris where greater risks are taken by the women who want to be beautiful, they do it every day. Cutting a dimple in the chin is rather a simple process, and little risk is taken. With the cheeks, however, it is quite a different story. The op eration leaves a scar almost as often as it produces the desired dimple, and hence the practice is to be avoided. Dimples come naturally in plump cheeks, and the thing to do is to mas sage your cheeks and try to fatten Ideas in New THE woman, that is fashionable to day has no hips. The tall', thin girl is the fad for the moment, and those of us who are burdened with flesh below the waist line must bend all energies toward reducing it. How to . do this is the vital question. First of all, see that you wear a proper cor set, one that fits you, one that holds down the over-abundant flesh, and then look well to your undergarments, par ticularly your petticoats. For the woman who is very stout a tight-fitting Jersey petticoat is the only style permissible. The top of the skirt should be cut circular fashion, and made to fit perfectly, without a wrinkle or pleat of any kind. Have it rather large in the waist line, so that it falls about an inch or two below the band of your outer skirt. On the Jersey top you can sew a ruffle of silk of any desired shade or combination of colors. Let the Jersey portion come to the top of our shoes and then add your silk ruffle. Even the thin girl must try to look slim about the hip line, and she con wear her all-silk pettcoats on the street with very full ruffles below the knees, but up .at the top they must fit without fullness. If you buy them ready made, then have them fitted at home, so that there Is no fullness about the Jiips. Then, too, some girls cling to the old-fashioned habit of wearing two skirts, and this is no longer permissible. If one skirt is not warm easily accomplished, for the long grace ful lines now In prevalence are generally becoming. A woman must spend only a little time and thought on the selection of that particular cut most becoming to a particular figure. Home, Sweet Home. L. 8. Waterhouse. After many hours of roaming I was seated in the gloaming In that place of places dearest to the in most soul of man; There was hardly air for breathing, but my good cipar was wreathing; Rings of pleasure the slncerest whan the trouble first began. In the middle of my dreaming; I was wak ened by the screaming Of a woman up above me In apartment number nine; She was trilling- In falsetto, sharper than a new stlUeto, Spmethlng similar to "Love me and thl universe Is mine." Next there came an awful bellow from thai phonographic fellow Who announces In staccato all tha tor tures of the year: Then the braxen horn got started, and the agony Imparted Had a fiddle obligato by some nuisance In the rear. While this bedlam still was raging; two big; feline got to waging Lively war upon some topic that required much vocal power. And .three husky pianolas loosened up their Ivory molars. While an' Infant, microscopic, howled In concert for an hour. After I had closed each casement in an effort at efface men t And Inserted numerous digits far within my frenzied ears, A cometlst just below me started merrily to show me How a man' can get the fidgets and be liquified to tears. But the one who knocked me senseless and Just left me there defenseless Was the urchlri who got busy with the paper and a comb For he added to that racket just as hard as he could crack it Jn a ragtime, weird and dizzy, that old chestnut. "Home, Sweet Home." Earth, the Beautiful. Ninette M. Lowater In the New Toik Pun. I watched alone the wonder of the. night ' The frozen moon, with lustrous, borrowed light. Trailing upon the lake her silver bars; I saw the varying radiance if the stars Pet jewellike In the great avure arch. Tet ever moving with majestic march To great Arcturus. throned upon the sky. Viewing processions of the worlds wheel by. And wondered If with equal, far seen grace. Our planet In these mighty ranks keeps place. t I saw the lesser beauties of the night The fireflies, with their evanescent light, Great moths, like pale hued. floating flowers adrift. Dense darkness where the columned trees uplift From earth their spreading canopies of shade. Where weak wild things may shelter un afraid; Wide spreading fields, set diamondlike with dew. Marked with white roads like ribbons wind ing through. . And felt the touch of soft, sweet winds that pass So lightly that they scarcely bend the grass. i I heart! the tender voices of the night The hum of creatures whom the day affright; The querulous katydid's incessant note. The nutellke call from the shy Hyla'a throat. From the far ponds a faint, unchanging drone. To other sounds a eadenced undertone; My heart grew faint and I felt tears arise. So great the beauty of the earth and skies; If there are worlds beyond for us to share. If we forget not, will they seem more fair? them, and then nature will send the desired dimple. The old saying is that dimples and flushes go together, but old sayings are not always true. Blushing is largely a matter of practice and a re sult of a good healthy skin. The worn, an who lets her skin grow dull and thick, with hardened musoles and the corners of her mouth saggng, will never find herself blushing; while th girl who looks well to her' complexion and her general health will And the rosy flushes come easily. Laugh as much as you can. Better have a few tiny wrinkles about the. eyes that massage will eliminate, than to go about with a pouting face and sagging mouth, and when you smile, don't do It In an absent-minded man ner. It Is one of woman's greatest and strongest attraction that of - a pleasant smile. Look at the person you smile at, and practice showing your teeth. There is quite a trick in lifting the upper Hp, allowng the teeth to s..ow. Stand in front of the glass and practice it until you get Just th right smile that will show two rowi of glistening teeth, Style Petticoats enough, then you must line the top ol your silk foundation with a lightweight albatross nearly the color of your silk. If, the silk petticoat lined with the wool albatross is not sufficiently warm, then you must get wool tights, but fllan nel petticoats, with fullness about the hips, are tabooed for this year at least. For evening wear and all dressy oc casions, the white lingerie petticoat has taken the place of silk ones. These dainty white skirts are made with lawn tops fitting the figure perfectly, and from the knee down they are elaborate in the extreme, with frill upon frill of lace. Insertion and handsome medallions. If bought at the shop, the cost a fabulous sum, but the clever home sewer can make them for much less. Some of these lingerie petticoats have a colored silk flounce buttoned on under the lace flounce, showing the color through. This ruffle corresponds in color with the eve ning gown worn. This Is a new idea just brought over from Paris. , For morning wear with the short walk ing skirt nothing is more serviceable than mohair or moreen. Either of these skirts can be purchased ready-made for quite as little money as they could be made up at home,, and by spending an hour in refitting them at the top they answer every purpose. On a rainy day do" not wear a silk petticoat. Rather put on a perfectly plain white muslin one that can be thrown into the tub when soiled. MfRY DEAN.