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T1IE SUNDAY QREGONIAN, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 27, 1907.
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King Edward, Despite the Fact That
He is Slightly RnockrKneed, Wears
the Highland Costume and Thus
Adds to His Popularity in Scotland
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TWtf- EDWAAb, GARBEt V
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PMVCE AND PfACSS OF WALES AV0 FAATL V,
tYrw THE PRAtCE AAO H5 V SCOTCH
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r-V-f BALMORAL. HIGHLANDERS PARADING- WITH THEIR FAMOUS
CQCHAQER AXS.
mfr INQ EDWARD VII. of England. Is
determined to keep Scotland aa
Scotch, as her people want her to
be.
In this he shows his capacity as a dip
lomat and adds to his already tremen
dous popularity throughout the British
Empire.
It Is all a question of skirts, or rather
"kilts," as the Scotch term their gay and
picturesque National garb.
Many years ago in 1745, to be exact
' the gallant Highland Clans, who had
been flgtitlng more or less with England
for several centuries, joined the rebellion
raised by the Jacobites, the name given
to the adherents of the male line of the
House of Stuart. When the troop of the
.Englih crown overthrew the young Pre
tender at Culloden in 1716, the Jacobite
cause was crushed and an era of pun
ishment was Inaugurated. England felt
especially wroth with Scotland for the
Highlanders' part in the uprising.. So
as a drastic measure of reproof, the
crown suppressed the Scotch language
and customs Including the wearing of the
famous kilt.
Of course, these harsh measures were
modified later and finally repealed, and
Scotch kilts became as familiar among
"the hills and heather" as oat cakes and
Scotch whisky.
But even' as the "Marseillaise" and the
trl-color are Inseparably associated by
the French people with their struggle for
liberty, so the kilt and the cherished
customs of their land will always recall
to the Scotch memories of their old-time
heroes. It Is with this thought In mind
that King Edward, trusting the loyalty
o the sturdy Scot, has encouraged ( a
wave of revival of old Scotch customs
which seem to be sweeping the land of
Robert Burns.
Desire to Restore Old' Manners.
All over Scotland the desire to restore
the ways and manners of old is ap
parent. The younger generatipn Is tak
ing to the kilt and tartan, and many
are learning to play the bagpipes. Then,
too, there Is a noticeable increase among
the . rising generation of those who want
to learn Gaelic.
The movement .is particularly marked
in the Deeside highlands, whore its ex
istence forms a curiotls comment on his
tory, inasmuch as It was in these same
laea of Mar, now so loyal to the Eng
lish crown, that tho standard of the
Jacobites was raised over a century and I their retainers they . appear on various
a half ago. The King's tenants at Bal- I festal occasions in highland garb, car
moral have an organization known , as I rying their Lochaber axes, emblems of
"The Balmoral Highlanders," and with 1 the Pretender's days. Recently they
marched led by the King's own commis
sioner. Now King Edward ' has not only en
couraged these revivals, but he and other
members of the royal family take pains
to be seen in kilts and full Scotch cos
tume on many occasions. Recently he
had posed for a number of portraits In
highland costume, while the Prince of
Wales and his children take pains to
stand before the camera clothed In simi
lar garb. Of course, being photographed
In kilts is not a new experience for the
King, but the fact that he and his son
have posed for a number of these pic
tures recently s worthy of note. All of
this is appreciated by the Scotch, who
love their land . dearly, and stick tena
ciously to their customs.
There Is an interesting little sidelight
on thls whlch serves as additional evi
dence to show the King's desire to
express his love for his Scotch- subjects.
It is said that the King: does not take
very kindly to short trousers. His Maj
esty feeling that his legs are not meant
by nature for this sort of garb.
Casual observers of the royal limbs
see nothing wrong with them,' but King
-Edward thinks he has a slight tendency
to be knock-kneed, and therefore he
prefers long trousers.
Indeed, It was said not long ago that
the King, who sets fashions for Eng
land, If not for the world, favored the
idea of men adopting knee breeches
for evening dress, but that owing to his
aversion to appearing that way; de
clined to set the example.
Now kilts expose Just as much of the
lower extremities as knickerbockers, so
it is doubly evident that King Edward
makes some sacrifice of personal pride
at least to demonstrate his regard for
Scotland by posing In Highland dress.
Besides the King many members of
the nobility are wearing kilts upon oc
casion. Even women of note affect the
garb, particularly at fancy dress balls.
Lady Constance MacKenzIe, whose ath
letic performances have made her fa
raous, is notable among the British
women who sometimes wear the kilt.
The Scotch plaids or tartans, as they
are called, are popular combinations of
bright color all over te world. Each
Scotch Clan has Its peculiar tartan, and
the wearer of the colors Is easily iden
tified. In addition to his title of King and
Emperor, Edward has a number of
Scotch titles, signifying his authority
In this part of his Empire. He' is
"Grand Steward of Scotland, Duke of
Rothesay, Earl of Carrlck, Baron of
Renfrew, and Lord of the Isles."
Scotland Is most loyal, and the King
gets a hearty welcome every time he
takes a trip north. . Despite the fact
that it is a country absolutely separate
and distinct from England in the man
ners, traditions, customs and general
make-up of its people, it appears to be
thoroughly contented In Its relationship
with the English Crown.
The King, who Is being recognized
more and more as a consummate diplo
mat, is anxious that this tranquillity of
the political atmosphere remain undis
turbed, and fpr that reason he is glad
to encourage all Scotchmen who want
to be thoroughly Scotch.
RARE PERFUMES RULE
Modern London Loves Sweet Scent of Garden Flowers.
LONDON perfumes, ; oh, ' how vulgar
these are! There are only a few of the
old. prim, Puritanical guard of feminine
creatures who are still capable of mak
ing such an exclamation which a dozen
or 15 years ago was much heard. But do
you not receive enjoyment through the
sense of smell? one asks of them. That
is at least a harmless and unforbidden
sensuality. Of course, they answer, we
love the perfume of flowers, but that is
very different, and with that they draw
aside their skirts, sniff, and so miss what
the luxury-loving woman of today re
gards as one of her greatest sources of
enjoyment.
According to the fashionable perfum
ers with whom I have talked, the pres
ent vogue of the perfumed bath in Lon
don is of comparatively recent origin,
dating back not more than five or six
years.
"There have always been persona from
the time of the Romans who have enjoyed
luxury of this sort,", said one, "but you
would be surprised to know how much
the Introduction Into London houses of
the modern bathing convenience has had
to do with the growth of the present fad,
or call it what you will. There are many
fine old London houses which never knew
any other batn tub than the old-fashioned
portable tin affair until within the last
few years. Many of them now have the
most modern plumbing and fixtures. Bath
ing has in consequence developed from a
duty conscientiously performed Into a
source of the keenest enjoyment,
"London water is very hard. If It is
cold you can never be certain that your
face is quite free from dirt. The primi
tive method was to heat it or soften it
with a little borax or something else of
an alkaline nature, and the more fastid
ious would perhaps add violet water.
The perfumer finally hit upon the Idea of.
combining the two, and now we have the
bath powder and crystals which have
leaped Into such tremendous favor."
The way in which the number of 'fash
ionable perfumers' shops In London has
increased during the last few' years
strikes the observer as remarkable. Not
only have such long established houses as
fthat of .Florls, in Tnrmvn rt increased
their business tremendously, but many
Krench firms have one or more branch
houses here. Besides these almost every
chemist and hairdresser in the West End
makes a display In his windows of per
fumes and bath powders, most of the lat
ter being in very ornate boxes and af
fording such a variety of choice that one
might gather that in London bathing con
stituted the principal means of enjoy
ment. "Nowadays every lady Insists that the
water in which she is to bathe shall be
as carefully prepared and scented as if it
were to be used on the face," said a
representative of a company which has
several shops in London. "She has come
to realize that to be lasting perfume
should be of the best quality, and that ia
why the demand is principally for the
better. grades. Fashion changes in per
fumes as well as in hats and clothes, and
for that reason the perfumer has to bring
out one or more new perfumes every sea
son. In addition to the. bath crystals,
bath powder and toilet . water, another
method of treating the water for the bath
is to throw into it a new perfumed soap,
which is made to look like leaves of pa
per and which, dissolving, furnishes both
perfume and the necessary softening for
the water."
There ls no one In London better
qualified to discuss the subject of per
fumes than J. Florls, the court perfumer,
of Jermyn street.
"Of the finer perfumes," said M.
Floris, "there are two principal classes
bouquet and single flower perfumes. Paris
might be called the home of the former.
London of the latter, j-ouquets. have been
in vogue, but flower perfumes can always
hold their own. The public generally does
not appreciate what an amount of labor
and care is necessary In the preparation
of these. In some of the finer grades as
many as twelve or .fifteen flavors some
times enter, and It takes a long time . to
mlnple.them as one wishes.
"This blending is just as necessary "in
making flower perfumes as in the bouquet,
for In making ordinary ffower perfume
the extract has to be strengthened and
made lasting. Of course, most of the
cheaper perfumes nowadays are - made
from coal tax oroducts. Good ones, how
ever, are still made from the leaves of
flowers, and Grasse Is still the center of
the perfume Industry. There essential oils
are obtained by putting fat and flower
leaves together, and these are imported
In that state Into other countries or
worked out with spirits into finished er
fumes there. i
"The use of . perfume in England is cer
tainly on the Increase, -and there has been
great progress in the manufacture of" per
fumes in this country. It is true that per
fumes are becoming more costly, and
that is due largely to the Increase In the
price of essential oils. This Is due in
turn to a shortage of the crops and the
increase in the cost of labor In the flower
centers, especially Sicily, whence come
bergamot, lemon and orange flower, and
also thhe success of the big manufactur
ers In cornering lavender, which is so
much used in perfumes, and raising the
price has further contributed to this.
"You would be surprised at the number
of persons who have their own especial
perfumes made to order. We have a num
ber of customers for whom we make a
particular perfume on condition that they
engage to- take a certain quantity. Some
are very keen about this, but the luxury
of having one's private perfume Is some
thing that not everybody can enjoy.
"Most of the fashionable ladles who are
among our customers prefer to change
their perfume with each season, and in
consequence we get out a new one each
Spring, for the perfume season is the Lon
don season, and we sometimes bring out
another at Christmas."
"What are . now considered the most
fashionable perfumes?" I asked.
"Though there Is still a vogue for
strong bouquets, of which . our 'Royal
Arms' might be taken as the type," said
Mr. Floris, "flower perfumes with their
more delicate and characteristic odors
are always very highly esteemed. While
a much greater Interest Is shown of late
years in the cultivation of sweet peas and
their increased use for floral decoration
has grown with the corresponding de
mand for the perfume they exhale, with
no heavy base of gums or animal per
fumes to overweight them, their frag
rance appeals to all English-speaking
people as' a breath from a garden which
has lost none of Its freshness.
"By the way. the tea rose Is again
braeking away from the Patchouli tradi
tions' associated with the older white
roses and. losing perhaps a little in pun
gency and permanency, gains in favor by
Its more delicate and realistic appeal.'
I The Malmalson, already an established
favorite, has yet to enjoy its full sun
shine of prosperity, the more so as Its
name and character are perpetuated in
such essentials of the toilet table and
bathroom as soap powder, bath crystals
and toilet water.
"In the Queen of Violets we have the
queen of the only perfume that Is never
out of fashion. Lily of the valley, lilac,
narcissus and various bouquets have
their rage, but the violet can h'de itself
modestly under its leaves and bide its
time; It will never be banished from pub
lic favor. Despite all talk about artificial
essences the flower plantations and per
fume factories of the Riviera are still
thriving and busy, for the best results
of the perfumer's art must ever be de
pendent on nature's blooms, the volatile
fragrance of which he seeks to secure and
condenses." London Dispatch to the
New York Herald.
Paris Barefoot Brigade.
London Echo.
A barefoot brigade is trying to make
converts in Paris. Their chief is a painter
of some renown, who believes that going
barefooted Is absolutely essential for the
health. In his studio he wears no foot
covering of any kind, and when he is out
he wears specially made boots which
are perforated so as to allow free access
to the air,' water and snow.
You
The Poet's Pleacantrr.
I.a Touche Hancock,
man of shreds and patches, needle.
thread.
Won't you please come another day?
These dunning visits drive me off my head;
' Reflect did you e'er know a poet pay?
Why bother me. you butcher, grocer why?
The a&e of miracles Is long since o'er.
Can-dollars from an empty pocket fly?
How many times I've told you that before.
Pierian pebbles will not yield you blood
The Muse's mint is drained to its extent.
And what I earn I spend on daily food.
; For even bards must have some nutri
ment. You've other customers more prompt than I;
I'm sure they'd pay if you made request,"
On them I think you misrht as well rely
And let a hardworked poet have a rest.
Yet some good faith I'd really like to show
By writing eaoh of you a tripping rhyme.
Which way why, what's your hurry must
you go ?
Good-bye! I'll see you, p'raps, some other
time!
TO MEASURE EMOTIONS
College Professor Invents a Machine for This Purpose.
PROFESSOR PETERSON, of Colum
bia College, New York, has In
vented a machine which measures the
emotions. This device, called a gal
vanometer, has not been thoroughly
perfected, but it gives promise of be
ing exceedingly useful to police author
ities in examining persons suspected of
crime.
"With the galvanometer as an auxil
iary the detective will find It possible
to dispense with that racking inquisi
tion called "sweating" and the "third
degree." By simply asking a few
straightforward questions the police of
ficial will be able to tell by the rec
ords of the machine whether or not
the person examined betrays those emo
tions which would signify connection
with the case.
So uncanny is the galvanometer that
as soon as the subject Is told that he is
about to be experimented upon "the ef
fects of expectation" are recorded upon
the receiving plate by the indicating
pen. Dr. Peterson's descriptions of ex
periments upon normal individuals and
cases of insanity show clearly that the
galvanometer is a marvelous thing,
bordering on the miraculous.
"We employed first," he says, "a
series of tests to stimulate the patient."
Frequently the test person was in an
adjoining room at some distance from
the recording apparatus.-
The following tests, among others, were
put to the patient:
A loud whistle.
Fall of a heavy weight with a loud
noise.
Multiply 8 by 12.
Where do you live?
What is the capital of Switzerland?
How old are you?
Are you married?
Were you engaged once before?
Threat with the prick of a needle
after counting 1, 2, 5.
What is the first name of your, wife?
Is she pretty?
"As soon as these questions sink Into
the mind of the subject his sensations
are recorded on the sensitized plate of
the apparatus.
"How far this method of study with
galvanometer and word association
may prove useful in attaining to a
knowledge of hidden matters in the
minds of neurasthetics,, hysterics, the
Insane, and criminals," says Dr. Peter
son, "it is Impossible to foresee; but
that It is a new and valuable method
of exploration in psychology is already
beyond question."
If the question put to the subject is of
little consequence to him, and his mind
accordingly is unagitated, the recording
needle simply draws a straight line:
Thus, if an innocent man is arrested
for the murder of (say) Mr. A, the
following scrap of cross-examination
(in the presence of the galvanometer)
would establish his innocence in a mo
ment. Of course he might have known
Mr. A., buthe might lie for self-preservation:
Question: Did you know Mr. A?
Witness: No.
Galvanometer (Jerkily): ? ? ? ?
Question (with suspicion now fully
aroused): Are you guilty or not guilty
of his murder?
Witness: Not guilty.
Galvanometer (placidly):
On the other hand, were the real
murderer arrested, one question to him
would settle the matter. His perturbed
miiid would act with convincing results
upon the recording needle, no matter
how much he prevaricated, and he
would be condemned not out of his
own mouth, but out or his own mind.
He would "get the needle" badly.
At the lord.
' Archibald Sullivan in the Smart Set.
Whrn the rose means nothing but a roae;
When storms are storms not clouds on
blue.
And rain means naught but cold and chill.
Not tears of angels drifting through;
When grief means grief and nothing more.
When sorrow's kiss is like a blow.
And when there is no hope of Spring
Beneath the earth's baptism of snow
It will be age .not faithlessness.
That stills the music In my throat.
Forget not how. when 1 was young.
I knew my song and trilled each note.