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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 20, 1907)
THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN. PORTLAND. OCTOBER 20, 1907. 0?rorittlAce! fas (&PEAOTT niM5 Si ECONOMY AND CHARM IN JUVENILE RAIMENT GOOD news for mothers who must reduce economy to a science! This is to be an apron season for young people, very young, and sweet slxteens, too. Every mother knows that the .use of aprons for school and home wear reduces expenditures for frocks, and stretches the dress allowance for the family most ' Joyously. Not that aprons are being worn because they are sensible and economical, but because the mothers of the very rich have set the styles by announcing that the demure, domestically inclined maiden Is the very properest figure in the juven ile world. And what the very rich an nounce, the middle class confirm, and so aprons it will be. At first Miss Ten-year-old will feel her dignity somewhat impaired by the news that she is to wear aprons to school dally, but if rebellion threatens, just take her for a walk past some fashionable school where young heiresses to millions are ac quiring learning, or past some brown stone mansion where the youngsters of the family loll In the broad windows and there she will see windows and win dows of aprons. Also she will see them In the smartest shops, and you may be sure that smart shops are not showing aprons as mere window decorations. "But," says some busy mother who does her own work, "laundering white cambric aprons is such a task." Well, who said that all the aprons were of white- cambric? Personallly, I have seen, in shops which specialize juvenile raiment, some perfectly stunning aprons which were not of white cambric. They are in colors and such colors 1 For In stance, fine zephyrs and Scotch ginghams and chambrays in Dutch or Delft blue and white stripes; natural coloreu Hol land and natural colored linen, pique and batiste figured with dots, rings, fluer de lis, cubes and other geometrical 'forms In fascinating blues, browns, scarlets, etc. Then there are new American made gala tea cloths for the hoydenlsh little maiden, which wear and launder splendidly, though a trifle heavy on a dainty little girl. Quite generally the blue and white aprons are trimmed with flat, white, washable braid or strong white embroid ery, the natural colored aprons are made without trimming or with natural colored embroidery, which, however. Is not cheap. A very good thing to avoid Is braid or colored embroidery of any sort. In using either of these, you take grave chances of their running into the goods. French percales at 25 cents a yard 'are nearly 36 Inches in width and they wash finely. Popllnette and lightweight pique make good plain aprons, and the new calicoes, which, alas, have risen to 10 cents a yard, show some lovely, clean looking patterns. For plain .white, I have always found either a good quality of long cloth, ' barred muslin or lawn preferable to the ordinary cambric, which Is not easy to launder. It washes well, but has a trick of wrinkling In Ironing. A light weight, sheer longcloth must be used for this purpose and for the cross-bar muslin select rather a heavy-weight with a de cided pattern. Do not waste time putting very cheap materials like dotted Swiss, ten-cent lawns, etc., into aprons for reg ular wear. . Avoid the shapeless apron. I do not blame . the child who rebels against the apron shaped like a meal sack. It is Just as easy to shape the gores careful ly, and fit the yoke or bands l.dily to the little figure, as to throw . the apron together without a single fitting. And above ail things do not permit the apron to sag over the shoulders. This will give the child a trick of shrugging or hunching her shoulders in a fruitless ef fort to keep the apron In place. If you are afraid of shrinking, rinse out the material and Iron before making It up. Or If you want It worn first In all Its pristine freshness, then make It loose, allowing for shrinkage and fasten on the shoulders with pretty bar pins. Hlven the little checked.- all-enveloping CHATS WITH HALF-GROWN-UPS PLEASE tell me what Is the right thing to do at a dinner party. I have an invitation where I know there will be considerable style, and 1 want to do 'be right thing " And then comes cuch a formidable list of questions that I fairly tremble for the writer's first appearance at a well-appointed dinner table. And what is more, I get so many letters of just this Sort from girls and young men who live 'n boarding-houses and they wind up their pathetic ap peals with some such remark, as "and you know how careless one gets in boarding-house life," and from other girls and boys who write, "we are sort of careless around home, and mother is obliged to do her own work, and father is always in a hurry." The place to lay the foundation of company manners Is at home. The place to learn how to pass through the ordeal of a formal dinner with flying colors Is at that much despised boarding-house dinner table. It never pays to have two sets of manners every day, home manners and company man ners. Some of these times you are quite sure to get them mixed, and at the worst possible moment for such a mlx-up. We will discuss first the problem of the girl or man who boards and the big cities are full of these bees from factories, stores and offices, who pay reasonably good rates for board and have the right to decent table service. And what is more they could have It, 'If only they would show by their own bearing that they would appreciate it. For instance, how do you enter the dining-room, dear Miss Stenographer? In the morning you lie abed until the very last minute, and come rushing down with only a few minutes for breakfast. 'You lay your coat across a chair, push up your veil and lay your mall beside your plate. "An orange, Maggie; and do be quick. I am late again. You rip open a letter with a hatpin, and then suddenly discover that you came down without cleaning your finger nails. So you use your lap and the table cloth as an apology for a screen and actually clean your finger nails during the wait for the orange. This over, you take the half of an orange In one hand and your home letter In the other and suck tne orange as you, absorb the home news. Is It any wonder that Maggie brings you a dish of oatmeal with some of the cereal running over one side of the sauce dish? Is it any wonder that she slaps down your cup of coffee and spills some into the saucer? What sort of an example. In table manners do you set to the girl who earns less than half what you do, and who looks upon you as her superior? Now you want a piece of bread, and Maggie Is not there, and the man across the table Is burled in his paper. Short Skirt Effect. aprons for house wear can be made trig 1 and attractive if they are well fitted at throat and wrists. For example, here is ' as you in your mall. So you take up your fork and poke the bread-plate to ward you. Just as you are finishing your bacon and eggs a clock strikes In the kitchen and you spring to your feet, leaving your knife and fork cling ing to opposite sides of your plate. In stead of laid neatly side by side in the center or on the same side of the plate. And at night It. is but a repetition of the breakfast scene. You stop on the corner to chat with a friend, come In late, sit down to dinner with your hat on, your office waist showing marks of the day's toil, perhaps your cuffs soiled, and certainly your face In sad need of powder or washing. The dinner has no charms for you, partly because you are so tired, and you shove back your various courses discontent edly, dipping into one before Its pre decessor has been removed, crumbling your bread in untidly little piles, slash ing into your, salad with knife and fork when you should use the fork alone, and otherwise acting as If you did not have to be polite or ever, wo manly, just because you have to board! Now, suppose you try a new regime at meals. Get up a litter earlier in the morning and leave your hat and wraps upstairs. Try to forget you are a working girl, whose first Instinct Is to bolt her food. Make sure that your toilet is complete before you leave your room. Do not come dwnstalrs fastening the packet of your skirt or settling your necktie. ' Lay aside your mall and make the eating of even your commonplace breakfast a womanly art. Scoop out the half orange that Maggie brings you with a teaspoon, eat your oatmeal noiselessly from the side, not the point, of the spoon; ask Maggie to pass you the bread (for she will prob ably be watchlng you in more or less amazement, insted of retiring to the kitchen to complain of impatient board ers), or if Maggie is getting your coffee, ask the' young man with the paper if he will kindly pass the bread. He may have an attack of heart disease at the word "please" in an unhappy boarding-house circle, or he may lose his place in the paper, but he will pass the bread, and the next time he may glance up to see whether there Is any thing on his side of the table that you do need. Maggie may be only a three-dollar-a-week scullery maid, but she knows which boarder leave crumbs for her to clean up, spills soup on the table cloth, and drops her knives and forks, where they leave ugly spots. And when she finds that you make the least work for her, she will prove your adoring slave and give you cheerfully the service which you think Is at the command only of the fortunate girl who eats at high-priced hotels, or In brownstone mansions. Then for dinner, reach home in time to change from your office waist to something fresh and restful. The psy chological influence of clean clothes Is simply wonderful. They exert a charm over the wearer as well as those who n''jS ' Box ' Plaited Deslarn. a suggestion for a Dlay-aDron with loose front and plain, half-fitted back. Note how much more effective Is the shirring look upon the wearer wit.t new in terest. A waist of challio or nun's veiling or any other inexpensive ma terial, cut with a Dutch neck, filled in with lace or tulle or worn bare with a band of black velvet around the throat is more effective, and exerts a good Influence over the entire boarding-house circle. It somehow speaks of hopes and pleasanter days. Don't wear tawdry, soiled, party waists but what you can call, however, simply they ar made, your dinner waists. And a dinner waist means freshly brushed hair, clean hands and face, and the restful feeling . which comes with mere cleanliness. Now, Maggie is going to wait on you a little more attentively if only to see how you hair Is dressed or your waist is made, and the young man across the table will pass things wl.ere you used to "spear" them, because he is vaguely grateful to you .for brightening up the dinner circle. And then some day when you have an invitation to a-real dinner party, the mere service of a well trained maid will hold no terrors for you. In our next talk we will take up some of the -little mistakes Inexperi enced diners make, the right uteusils to use at table and the order ir which dinners are served. To Smoke or Not To. Literary Digest. The father of Governor Hughes, of New York, Is a Baptist minister. When he was a young man in college, and even after entering the ministry, he smoked considerably, but finally decided that for a preacher to smoke was not proper. After numerous attempts to limit his in dulgence he concluded that the only way was to give It up entirely. How he came to this decision Is told In his own words, quoted .in the New York Advocate. We read there: "I began to smoke when I was 16 or 17. and during my college life I indulged much. We had our college prayer-meetings at 6 o'clock in those days. Before each meeting and before I went to my classes I had to have my smoke. "After my ordination into the ministry I thought that It was incongruous for a minister to set the example of smoking to the young men of his congregation. I gave It up again and again, but I always returned to it, because I had tried to give It up of my own strength. "Finally I had promised my congregation I would give up smoking except with my friends. Some time after this my father-in-law came to visit us, and I was very glad Indeed, because I could sit down and smoke three times a day with him. One day I went upstairs, expecting my father-in-law, who was downstairs, to follow me at neck and wrist, then a plain band. For the sash could be substituted , a plain stitched band, finished with a button. In shortly. I filled my pipe and began to smoke, but my father-in-law didn't come. "I smoked on and on, expecting him, but feeling rather uneasy about smoking while he was downstairs. I sat down with the open Bible near me. While I was filling my pipe mechanically, my eye came upon a verse in the Bible. It was: 'Whatsoever ye do, whether ye eat, or drink, do all for the glory of God.' "It came like a voice from heaven to me. I put my pipe back Into the box and knelt down In prayer. I said, 'I don't smoke for the glory of God." I had never realized that smoking was a sin. I know that it is a sin now. I vowed I would never touch tobacco again until I could do it for the glory of God. I have never had the slightest desire for tobacco from that day to this." Houses to Be Fireproof. Chicago Evening Post. Fireproof houses are the newest thing in Oak Park. Charles E. White, Jr., is the architect who Is drawing the plans for the building, which he says "simply can't burn." "There won't be anything in the houses that con burn," said Mr. White In telling of them. "The only wood used will be for the doors, window frames and the top floors. Hollow tile Is the material of which the houses will be built. For the exterior a coat of plaster will be used. "In time undoubtedly a tile so orna mental that It needs no covering will be manufactured, but at present there Is not sufficient demand for such tile. The floors will be concrete, covered with wood. It would be Impossible for that layer of wood to burn. "Fireproof residences are just beginning to be planned. I believe there are a few of the great country houses In the Bast that are fireproof, and the new Ogden Armour house at Lake Forest, I have been told. Is to be fireproof. The princi ple on which they are built is the same as that used for office buildings. In a few years I believe few houses that aren't, fireproof will be built. The origi nal cost Is about one-third more, but it Is economy in the end. Insurance will be unnecessary, and so will repairs." Making the Modern. Coat. Charities and Corrections. Coats used to be made by tailors. A skilled tailor made the entire garment. If that were the method of manufacture today there would be plenty of tailors, apprentice-trained, to do the work; but the method of manufacture has changed; it no longer takes a tailor to make a coat, and therefore those who are to work In the clothing trades need not serve the old-fashioned tailor's apprenticeship. Ac cording to Pope's The Clothing Industry In New York, there are now 38 different occupations comprised in the manufacture of a coat, in a shop where specialization has reached its highest development tinder the factory system. This means that the skill and labor of the tailor are not merely supplanted somewhat by machin ery, but that they are also subdivided into 39 parts. During- one month recently a aing-la ma chinery manufacturing company of Kt 1 Louis shipped 653 cars of machinery. I fact, I think the average child prefers I bands to sashes every time. Make the all-over apron large and full In the HOW TO REACH SKIN YOUNG people, both girls and lads, write me most pathetic letters concerning disfiguring ailments of the skin. Many of them add: "Moth er says not to worry, I will soon out grow It; but I am getting so I cannot bear to look at myself In the glass.' There ta no more foolish fallacy than this for a woman of years and expe rience to attempt to comfort a child, stive her own purse and salve her ma ternal conscience by saying that a skin disease is outgrown. Any sort of an eruption Indicates dis' order beneath the skin, and should be regarded as a danger signal. Further more, aside from mere questions of health, the boy or girl who has an unsightly eruption on the face and Is neglected, generally develops into a sloven In later years, careless as to personal appearance, dress and man ners, and who can blame him for slid-, lng Into a veritable slough of de spond. Eruptions Indicate various internal ailments Impoverished blood, indiges tion and mal-assimiTrxtton of food, kid ney disease and bad blood, In vwhlch some decided disease germ lurks. The child should be flret taken to a physi cian and the cause of the eruption ascertained, and properly, scientifically treated. It is not within my province to set forth any regime of medicine in this column, but I would like to make some general -suggestions for the diet. Anyone afflicted with a skin eruption should drink quantities of cool, not Iced water, between meals. Start the day by drinking a big glassful before breakfast, and during the day that is between breakfast and lunch, and lunch and dinner drink at least eight glasses more. The last thing before re tiring, drink a glass of very hot water with unsweetened lemon juice In it. Eat quantities of oranges, three or four a day if you can afford it. Avoid all pork, veal and rich pastries, and eat as much rare, lean beef as your purse will permit. Eat dry toasted bread or Zwelback instead of hot biscuits and pan cakes. Substitute lemonade and orange Juice for coffee and tea. If you have what you call a "muggy" complexion and many young people find that a most expressive term bear In mind that -your night ablutions are the most Important of the day. Allow plenty of time to prepare for sleep, and make sure that the skin which has been sub jected all day to dust, grime, wind, etc., is thoroughly cleansed. I am. giving here a treatment for pimples, acne, blackheads and generally muddy condi tions of the skin, which are the most common skin aliments. Have plenty of hot water at your command, soft towels fold tablecloths or napkins are even better), a deep, enam eled basin, and what is known as a comedone extractor, which is shaped not arm's-eye, as that is where the heaviest train comes. For this design, In a size for a 4-year-old, about two yards of ma terial 36 Inches wide will be required. Another simple but effective little apron follows Mother Hubbard or Kate Oreenaway lines, and you will find it developed very prettily In natural col ored linen or batiste with a scarlet circle and dot design. The grace of this little apron depends entirely upon the well fitted yoke-bands and the fullness of the skirt section. Never "skimp" a Kate Greenaway pattern, especially if the gar ment Is to be worn by an angular, slen der girl. This apron may be edged around yoke and arm's-eye with em broidery, strong torchon lace or frills of the material, but with well-stltched and properly fitted bands it Is quite as ef fective and easier to iron. To turn this Into a dressier apron, fin ish the yoke band with a deep bertha of embroidery or material, with insertions of embroidery. Suoh an addition to a simple apron of white lawn or barred muslin will make It quite pretty enough for afternoon wear. For the plain apron. Intended for wear by a ft-year-old. about four yards of 27-lnch material will be required. An apron which gives something the effect of the above pattern, but which is really made- with box pleats to fit more snugly, is shown In the next Illustration. This design Is fitted over the shoulders, and the effect of the yoke bands Is sim ulated by the use of embroidered trim ming. It can be made with or without the frills of embroidery ever the shoul der, and will require about three yards of material for a child of eight years. The last apron shown for girlies sug gests the French dress with Its short skirt effect and bloused waist section. This design Is particularly suited to the awkward age, making . a break in the long, lank figure. The yoke-bands form shoulder straps and may be of the same material as the other parts of the apron. or embroidery may be substituted. This model can be worn by girls from four to 12 years of age, and pleases them all. Even their older sisters are going In for aprons this season, and some lovely little conceits are being turned out by the girl who Is learning that to be do mestic Is to charm especially young men with moderate Incomes. A young daughter of a fairly well-to-do family was showing me only the other day some aprons which she has made to wear when helping her mother about the house. She had picked up a five-yard remnant of dotted Swiss of good quality at a bargain, and from this she had evolved three lovely little aprons to wear when dusting, setting table, sweeping the porch, etc. The aprons are cut quite square, but are set into V-shaped bands, which give a trim, pointed effect at the walst-llne. The bottom of the apron Is finished with tucks and a ruffle, but the sides are hemmed. The sash ends are rather broad, ending in a point, outlined with a narrow ruffle. To wear with this while dusting she has made a cunning mop cap of the Swiss, trimmed with lace, which she says does not look like the flat cap worn by a parlor maid, yet It protects her hair from dust. One apron she Intends to finish with lace, edging the ruffles and adding a tiny, lace-edged pocket for a bit of coquetry. Her kitchen aprons are more practical, following In lines the Kate Oreenaway aprons on this page, as designed for her youiiger sister. The yoke band of this work apron Is fitted snugly, but the arm holes are large, to allow of free move ment. The skirt is very full, and finished with a deep hem. These aprons are of natural-colored linen and are most be coming to the brown-haired, brown-eyed girl. She has the sleeves of her morning gowns plain and full, finished at the wrist with elastic, so that she can roll them up when needed without the use of pins. For the slender girl who likes a dressy trimmed apron to wear when she Is' set ting the tea table, or using the chafing dish, or doing light housework In an af ternoon frock, I am giving today unlike a watch key and is used for press ing out blackheads and opening pimples. Start your nightly ablutions by remov ing every trace of grime from your face and neck tfy the use of cleansing cream made as follows: Orange flower water, 4 ounces; oil of sweet almonds. 4 ounces; white wax, 2 ounces. Melt the wax and oil in a double boiler. Remove from the fire and beat In the orange flower water. Beat until cool. Keep In stone Jars, not in tin. Apply this with a rotary movement with the tips of the fingers. When It Is thoroughly worked into the skin, wipe oft with a piece of old linen or toweling, and you will be shocked at the grime which has been driven into the pores of your skin. Now wash the face thorough ly with very hot water ,as hot as you can bear, using a soft Turkish wash rag, or. If you prefer, a camel's hair face brush. Pat the face dry with old linen and apply one of the two following lo tions: Pimple lotion Precipitate sulphur, 1 dram; spirits of camphor, 1 dram; gly cerine, 1 dram; rose water, 4 ounces. Blackhead lotion Boraclc acid, 1 dram; alcohol, 1 ounce; rosewater, 2 ounces. If you have pimples, touch each pim ple with a bit of the pimple lotion. If ydu have blackheads, apply the ' black head lotion only. Leave these on until morning, and on arising wash your face first with hot then with cold water. In which a few drops of benzoin have been poured, "Do you believe in pies?" -sked a prlm-Iooklng student of an up-to date cooking teacher. "Yes," returned the teacher prompt ly, "for those who can digest them." , And the philosophy of a pie diet lies in her answer. Pies will not hurt the man or woman who has a perfect di gestion and leads an active life, par ticularly the active, outdoor life. They are lead on the stomach of the man or woman who lives a sedentary life and who has never known what perfect health is. And as there are as many men and women, in cities and outside, who have good digestions, despite the prev alence of nervous prostration and pre dlgested health foods, why not give them an occasional pie as a special treat? First as to pastry for the foundation. If you want good old-fashioned crust with a slight aid to digestion added, try this recipe In which baking powder Is introduced: Three cups sifted flour, 1-2 cup of lard, 1 1-2 cups butter, 1-2 teaspoon of baking powder, 1 cup cold water. Sift the baking powder Into the flour, cut Old-Fashioned Pie Recipes a rather fanciful design in fig ured lawn, with trimmings of Insertion and a bertha effect over the sleeves. One and three-fourths yards of material are required for the foundation of this apron and trimming may be bought as desired. It Is Women Who Count Most Clayton Hamilton in the Forum. Victor Hugo, in his preface to Ruy Bias), divides the theater audience into three classes the thinkers, who demand char acterization; the women, who demand passion; and the mob, who demand action and insists that every great play must appeal to all three classes at once. Cer tainly Ruy Bias itself fulfills this deslr eratura, and is great In the breadth of its appeal.' Tet although all three of the necessary elements appear in the play, it has more action than passion and more passion than characterization And this fact leads us to the statement, omitted by Victor Hugo from his preface, that the mob Is more Important than the women and the women more Important than the thinkers,. In the average theater audience. Indeed, a deeper consideration of the sub ject almost leads us to discard the think ers as a psychologic force and to obliter ate the distinction between the women, and the mob. It 1s to an unthinking and over-feminine mob that the dramatist must first of all appeal; and this leads us to believe that action with passion for Its motive is the prime essential for a play. For, nowadays at least, it Is most essential-that the drama should appeal to a mob of women. Practically speaking, our matinee audiences are composed en tirely of women, and our evening audi ences are composed chiefly of women and the men that they have brought with them. Very few men go to the theater unattached; and these few are not Im portant enough, from the theoretic stand point, to alter the psychologic aspect of the audience. The influence of this fact upon the dramatist is very potent. First of all, as I have said. It forces htm to deal chiefly in action with passion for its motive. And this necessity accounts for the preponderance of female characters over male In the large majority of the greatest modern plays. Notice "Nora Helmer," "Mrs. Alvlng." "Hedda Gab ler," "Hilda Wangel;" notice "Magda" and "Camllle:" notice "Mrs. Tanqueray," "Mrs. EJbbsmlth." "Iris," and "Letty" to cite, only a few examples. Fashion Don'ts Don't wear vividly tinted gloves, pur ple, blue or green to match your new frock. Select a shade of tan, or mode which will harmonize with the gown. Don't wear a long, trailing veil with ...II , I . . 1 . . V. , a. luuureu null, uu uio bliut-i. x ho iuii, i flnntlnfir enrin are a nrettv adlunct to the riding or motoring hat, but are unsightly for general wear on the street. For trav eling the ends should be crossed In the back and tied nuiiny under tne cmn. Don't fall to get out your heirlooms In the way of Jewelry. Old-fashioned coral . and garnet pins, brooches, ear-rings and v necklaces, plain or surrounded with, ' pearls, are In great demand. Don't buy a round, short feather boa If you are small or stout. If you must wear a necii piece ul mis sun, hiooi h. perfectly flat stole which comes to the bottom of your dress 'and gives you height. ' Short stoles and boas out off the ngurs ana renuce neignt. DISORDERS Once a week steam your face over a basin of boiling water. Fill your deep, basin with the water after It comes to a boll, bend over the basin and have some member of the family wrap a thick towel over your head and shoulders to prevent the escape of the steam, which should , open the pores of your skin. Pat the face dry ana tnen wun a comeaone extraator remove any blackheads or press the yel low matter out of the pimples. Then massage the face with massage cream as follows: 4 Rosewater, 4 ounces; almond oil, 4 ounces; spermaceti, 1 ounce; white wax, 1 ounce. The addition of 1 dram of tinc ture of benzoin will Insure the cream from becoming rancid, and It should be kept in small Jars that can be tightly closed to exclude the air. Remove all the cream from the face, bathe with toilet water, powder very lightly with the best grade of rlce-pow-. der and your skin will feel delightfully cool and refreshed. This treatment must not be spasmodic. It will do no good to wash your face one night and go to bed the next with the pores filled with grime. Persevered in for six1 months, this treatment will give you a new skin and more pleasure in living. the lard into the flour with a silver ' knife, and mix it into a smooth paste with the water. Set away on ice for fifteen minutes. Press the milk and salt out of the butter with a clean, cold, wet towel, and flour It lightly. Now roll out your dough on a well-floured board, lay the butter on It. fold over and roll out until It Is half an inch thick. Turn It over, fold each end Into the middle, flour lightly and roll out again. Repeat this process at least three times, and the butter will be worked into the flour without a touch of your warm hands. Heat makes pastry heavy. This pastry Is better if it remains on Ice for half a day or more before using. CRANBERRY PIE. Line your pie tins with paste with crimped edges. Stew three cups of cranberries with m cups sugar. Run through sieve or fine col ander and fill the lower crust moderately full with the fruit mixture. Wet edges of pie crust and cover the top with nar row strips of pastry, forming diamond shaped openings. Each atrip is pinched to the rim of the pie to hold It firmly,. Wash the top with an egg beaten in a lit tle Ice-cold water. Bake in a quick oven. The egg gives the top of the pie a bril liant glare.