V. Y MARY 11 KA N
Xlio m:iii- ssliort leiiBtha of prott- ma-t.-rijils
the rtliop sales are now- offering
may. with ciuvuil homo nnkiiiK. ncrom-
Itli.h very --levant' hodlcps. KPRinninc
nbout tiie lire! of Jiinun ry thene barga Ins
In winter remnants K,J on until the pprinsr,
The assort men t is hi lengths, .ser.crally,
ti'Oiii 14 "ird and ii half to fl ."e yards. . but
i- sh;trply contrasting are many effects
cvt'u the tiniest bit of luce or
v5maot tFFEmlN Pdactical Bodices
cheeked or plaid silk may he put to sty l -
Ish account.
PTothinjr Is plain any more. tullesa it
is a Manuel waist for pure comfort ; and
?o since odd fragments come cheaper than
fl simile- material all in one. it comes about
FrtiiK-linir-s that the dresssler bodice Is after
nil the least cxpeiini ve. Some lovely silks
seen hail tie-on reduced from ft.w to o3
cents a yard.
t"i" J'nicM ion I Waislh. .
For practical waists, flannel, a'paca, de-
i
Inlne and checked and plaid silk.s are all
deflrable textures. Fiv yards are? p;-n -e
rally rco, Hired for a bodice which is only
fliShtly trimmed, and whatever its mute-
rial or color it may show a. garniture of
i Ik In black or white check or Home gay
plaid.
These trimniiiiRS are Renernlly put on
in tiny bias pipings, at the edge of bands
made by the waist material, thouijh some
times i lie check or plaid will he cut in
Marrow muses, which art- put on In flat
rows sliu-hod at each Bide.
A dark blue flannel waist had n very or
namental yoke and Innp. closely fitting
cuffs marie entirely by narrow biases of
blue plaid silk.
Lcrt Over- Triiimii iAr I tiliztvl.
Tlit more (forty spun llemilos braids.
especially In black, are also sometimes
w
evere
oman
BY EER.THA DEN'ISON.
JjTp HIS is my problem Just now.'" the
I gin began as she tooK the steam-
ing. fragrant cup of tea her hostess hand-
-tI her-: ""I -wa i t to umIc u. business 1'avor
of a married man, and I want to do It
in tho miwt effective way.''
"As e 1 1 as the ri g ht wax , sa Id the
woi.im n.
"Yon see," continued the girl, "this man
Is too busy and too important a man
for me to take up his office time in tell
ing him all I want to about the project.
If I went to see him there, I'd feci nerv
ous, 1 know, and not half do my subject
justice. 1 can't ask him to dinner be
cause he would be bored to death by my
hoarding-house table. Besides he's mar
ried, hs I said. I knew him before he
acquired a wife."
"Can you give me any idea of what
this favor you want to ask Is concerned
Willi? Is it a purely personal favor?"
"Oh, no; It is connected With a certain
municipal reform. Not a forlorn-hope sort
of reform, either. It's a thing that's in
evitably groin? to be done and there will
he a lut of credit given to the man who
hacks it, after everybody sees how neces
sary it is. If this man only knew how
much good he would get out of doing this
favor for me he'd think I was doing
him the favor in givinp: him the chance
to do it.'
Make His Wife Your stroiiR All..
"1 see.'' said the woman. "I'll tell you
whHt I should do. if I were you.
'.Make his wife your strong- ally. In
terest her in the scheme and make her
feel that her husband is the one and
only man who could undertake the
-work.'
"You mean," said the plrl, "that if she
thinks there is money in it 'She won't
wunt to let the chance slip; if she thinks
the thins-: will give him an enviable fan
prestige in the community, she won't
want to let some other man have that.
She will imagine how his name will look
in the headlines of the local papers, set
forth in fla tiering phrases, and she w
thrill in anticipation of the honors that
will come to him."
r mean something better than that.
answered her friend. "You will have two
friends for your project Instead of one.
Her influence may be valuable in a Rood
many other ways after she has won over
her husband.
"That all sounds ideal.-' the girl said,
"but, vou see, I don't know tho wife."
"No? Then write him a note, addressed
to his bouse. asking if you may call
Home evening to talk to him about some
used upon a. flannel or silk waist, and
little tailor buttons of blark silk or velvet.
may form ornamental clusters tit the
front of another and upon the sleeves.
So remember If a few yards of black
braid or a. dozen or more little buttons
are left over from the street dress5, they
may prove most modish ornaments for
the otic! WHlst.
Small scraps of black taffetas, too, may
be utilized with smart effect, for scarcely
a waist is seen without some slight touch
of hlack.
Sometimes it is only used as an emphasizing-
line at the top of a. lace stock.
and at the bottom of the sleeves; but
aea in there will be considerable . black
UHed. and taffias eem the most reward
ing texture for the simpler materials.
Two Uses for Hemmed Bias Bits.
tTonniderinff alone t he fragments of
taffetas left over from a skirt lining: here
are two valuable uses for hemmed bias
bits.
Three separate nieces may form the sir
die, which begins with a. plain V gore at
the hack. To this slilrr two lengths suf
ficiently long to encircle the watst. and
under the at bering of them put whale
bones for stiffness.
Have tiie part which comes at the front
loose at the lower edge to effect the slight
drop a graceful waist line requires. Last
ly consider a side fastening; for the belt.
and put there a small- upstanding how
with ends, which may be made of four
separate pieces, also bias.
A well-fittiiiR belt is a very Important
detail with tiie smart bodice, and for a
ready made one of this costless sort, from
Sl..rt to $.'! is asked.
WiWi the tinier seraps of black taffetas
shape a little cravat for the throat, taking
cure to make the bow that is cut on the
straight of the silk without ends. A
Gl
s
eann:
touse
you will be glad to have thia opportunity,
of meeting his wife.
"Let me warn you of one thing; when
you talk to them both the event ng you
cull be careful not to make the wife
feel that she is 'second fiddle'; appeal to
her as much as you do to him. even
though you may - feel that she is not
almost nothing a woman resents so much
as being 'talked down to by another
woman, especially tr her husband is there.
"Don't" fail to follow up your first call
by other means of keeping her interested.
Call on her again send her and him.
too whatever printed matter you have
that reinforces your statements. Write
her a letter or two; perhaps you can take
her out to luncheon.
"Tn other words. ' use every way you
can think of to make her feel that It Is
an opportunity her husband ought not to
let slip. All this will take patience, per
severance and tact, but that's what makes
success."
"One of the saddest failures to get a
favor from a married men that I know
A Mistress of
BY ELEANOR CLAPP.
THE girl for general housework who
under a careless mistress quickly
degenerates into a mere sloppy house
hold druse will under a systematic
housekeeper become a faithful and ef
ficient servant.
There never was a greater truth than
the well-known saying, that bad mis
tresses make bad servants.
How can a servant be expected to
take proper interest in her work If she
never knows what she is to do from
one day to the next? If before she
has had time to- properly finish her
sweeping- she is called a Wn y to iron
a frock for the baby; or before the
breakfast dishes are washed she is ex
pected to make a cake?
The poor woman becomes worried
and nervous, flies from one task to
nnothor, feeling that nothing is really
finished, - is discontented, cross and
finally "prives notice" at tiie moat con
venient season for her mistress.
I'lan Your Work.
Plan your work, find out. just how
long it takes to accomplish a certain
household task and allow plenty of
time to do it in.
'Chen, wnether you do your own
work or have It done for you by serv
TIIE SUNDAY OKEGOMAX, PORTLAND, JANUARY 13, 1007.
, Mary Deqn Tells How Short Lengths and Left
over Trimmings May Be Utilised.
bodice pictured shows this stylish, square
neck finish. f
'I" lie Ready Mae liin in?.
As to making the waist itself, all ex
perienced home sewers l.(-;ree that to' buy
a lining ready made is a great saving of
time. For this they get the under bodices
of coarse black or whine muslin, which
may be found in the sholpsifrom 35 cents
up. '
Tne proper bust measure is carefully
sought for, and since all waists are fairly
loose, with a right-sized pattern for the
material to be put over this, a lit la as
sured at the outset.
After the bodice Is fitted over this lining,
tack the two together, and. put them over
tne dresa form, which of poll rse should
be of tile dimensions of the figure. If
there is a lace yoke the lining should be
white, and fit this detail always while
the bodice is on the form.
- 1'iittliig in ttie Sleeves.
For getting the sleeves at the first trial
at the proper points, nnd drawing the
bodice itwelf into trim lines at the wakt.
these stutTefl dummies are invaluable. AH
home dressmakers of any expertness use
them, and not only do they save con
stant trying on, but they allow the tria.1
of many ways of. trimming before the
right one is chosen.
To keep the bodice
in place on the
about wag that of a girl who wanted an j
appointment in the town library. She
went to see the man whose influence she
needed at his house one evening-, talcing
with her a girl friend.
"Neither of them had met his wife.
though they bad known him ' for some
time. "He had been recently m arrleil.
Soon after he came into the parlor he
said; Wouldn't you liKe to meet Mrs,
Blank? I'll send for her to come down.'
"What did the foolish girls do but" say:
Oh. no; . don't ' bother Mrs. Blank. "We
want to talk to you on business, which
would probably bore her.' After such a
rebuff the man could not well send for
hl wife. The girls stayed on and on
until the v call, which should not have
taken more than half an hour, stretched
Itself out to ,two hours.
'The wife, sitting upstairs, could hardly
intrude when she hadn't been asked, for.
But the longer she waited for those two
girls to leave the more indignant she
prrew. By the time the girls departed they
had made her their wrathful enemy. Of
course she soon convinced her husband
that to appoint anyone with so little tact
or courtesy or even common sense to a
position in the public -library would be a
great mistake. -The girl lost her chance
and to this day doesn't know why'
Henceforth.- said the girl as she took
her leave, 'T shall always try to take the
wife into my confidence when I have
' favors to ask of married men
the Kitchen
ants, the machinery of the household
will not be invariably just a little bit
behind time and everything bustle and
confusion in consequence.
Women Replaced, by Men.
Years ago nearly all the great hotels
in the country had tvomen housekeep
ers who man aged the staff of servants
and saw that everything was kept in
apple-pie orjer. .;
But where are they today?
Their places have with very few ex -
ceptions been Ailed by men.
And why? Simply because, as the
manager of a world-famous hotel de
clared not lon sinoe, women, lack sys
tem. The majority of, women will not plan
their work ahead." both for themselves
and their subordinates, as a competent
man is willing to do and consequently
are not ns efficient managers.
There are plenty of women workers
now in hotels, but not in positions of
importance.
So it is no use talking about the
general incompetency of servants, the
high price of provisions, fuel and all
the necessities of life as an excuse for
a badly conducted household.
For nine times out of ten the con
fusion is wholly due to a deplorable
lack of systum o-n the part of the mis-trcs,w.
s
Jmserm
dummy pin it to the figure at the neek
line, arm holes, and waist. Also remem
ber that any smartly adjusted bodice
should be fitted with Its band of ribbon-
belting, basted In the beginning at the
proper waist' line, for carefully fitted
waists require this to hold them down.
XI ic Model of Hie 1'raetical KotUce.
The model of the practical bodice has
generally a front opening and plain
French back. Sleeves come to the wrist
or a little above it, and a smart collar
of Home sort replaces the fancy stock ele-
where used. Turn-back, or flat band cuffs
trimmed with the gerniture elsewhere em
ployed, are jaunty details. ,i
So many combinations are to bo seen
in the blouse, beautiful the - bodice for
strictly dressy persons that ' a girl must
be dull indeed not to find use for almost
any pretty scrap of lace or delicately tint
ed silk she may pick up on a counter.
or find In her scrap bag.' Tn fact, a half
a dozen different laces may 'go toward one
waist, and several, yards of plain net In
different degrees of fineness as well;
Other things in the flotsam and Jetsam
of trade "all to the good." as the vulgar
put it, are one or' two paste buttons, ball
yard lengths of delicately colored ribbon.
or what, and even a. damaged artificial
To Refresh an Artificial Roiie.
To renew the charms of this last, trim
Revival of Old-Fashioned
. Canvas WorK
S'Jia ana biacK, tne ttitcn is a lung wave
and then a short one.
The stitches are six holes long and the
longest wave. 12 stitches shortest, fix..
Begin with the black, make 12 stitches,
each stitch beginning In the third hole
of the ne-t row. then three, the first be
ginning in the third hole of the next row,
then three, the first beginning the next
row higher, then three in a row. three
up again and then six.
Then, three in a row. three again. 12
and so on. Then the nve shades begin
ning with the darkest.
Only the front pieee is Florentine, the
rest being
moire silk the color of the
MNN mm
all the edges of. the petals with sharp
scissors, and if there are green leaves,
trim those as well. . .
Then straighten bent wire?, press the
fresh heart "of the .'rose open so that It
has a full blown look, and plaVe the flower
at the left bust of a low evening bodice.
in some thin material.
Brand new. the corsage rose costs from
$2.50 up to anything; . but with the rain
and dew of careful pruninjr a 25-cent bar
gain may burst upon the eye like nature s
own.
With yard lengths of rose, pale pink and
blue or yellow slllc or satin, make one of
the high bone girdles which are so smart
with fancy white bodices.
Out of the tiny pieces left over also
shape a rosette or two for the wait trim
ming, or cover minute buttons with them,
or cut them out in round moons or bi
squares, and applique them, with a gen
erous sprinkling of French knots, all over
a net waist.
A Theater Waist. .
One high-girdled theater bodice with the
moon treatment bad been made of three
yards of pale blue silk and five of bis
holed white net. the silk costing 50 cents
a. yard and the net 35 cents.
The result of this achievement, whicli
with linings and findings had eot but So,
was delightfully expensive, for, of course.
hrst shade, and bind with gold braid.
The portfolio Is the 'same stitch as the
frame, only making two rows of " black,
nve boles apart, and, filling in with the
sixth shade.
Five shades of green are .used, the
darkest on each side of the black, shad
ins to light, then black, lightest, blaek
and light shading to dark. The portfolio
measure, 10x13, the other cover being or
green moire, the lining the same shade in
a thin silk or satin.
A Gravy' for Beer or Mutton.
tiY -FRANCES MORGAN.
One-half cup walnut catsup. 1 small
cup . tomato catsup, 1 small cup sherry
(may be omitted), 1 tablcspoonlul butter,
rubbed smooth with flour; 1 small onion,
chopped very fine:- 1 teaspoon currant
jellv. Salt and pepper.
When thoroughly -mixed lay slices of
the meat in a dish, pour the gravy over,
then set dish in the oven until all is
well heated through. Serve. --
garment
would bring it anywhere in the 2U region.
Tiie Vscful liBce l$oxIic-c-.
:
But the most useful fancy bodices of
the season are without doubt the ones all
white, or else t iiose .showing only a modi-
cum of color, and for thee lace or net
are favorite materials.
A very clever laire Imitation of baby
Jrlsh. which is sold nmsi reawnably. is
much employed in comblnaunn wnn
coarser imitations of the same lace.
Again the finer sort may be used alone.
this even forming the bertha and . sleeve
falls like border lace, for a stitched rib-
bon binding makes the cut lace suitable
for these details.
Fur a mixture of coa rse and fine net
Cluny lace is a delightful blouse decking,
this forming against the lilmy bark
ground, many pretty yoke .and suspender
effects and striping the t hree-quarter or
elbow sleeves at the outside arm.
Miort Sleeves Are Essential.
Concerning these last, the Winter has
certai x I y proven that one ca n no l be
"dressed" 1n the evening with long
sleeves. The arm covering must stop
short enough - to show long wrinkled
gloves, and far as the home dressmaker
is concerned this is a happy mode, wrist
length sleeves requiring a 'much more
careful fit than short ones. .
- I'or I a Ut ii sr tlit- Kn-nt-y Iol it-e.
For the making of the fancy hodiee,
which means something for t heater, con
certs, receptions, evenings at home and
what not let the home sewer remember
that all transparent materials must be
doubled With silk.
The flimsieat qualities. swell as line
many ready-made waists may be . em-
ployed, but between this and the outside
lace or net there is an interlining- of chif-
the outside making of such
at a. Baby Most Needs
A
useful garment for tiie baby in cold
weather. beinjr an ef f it-ient safeguard
against drautrritn while he is k - i 1 1 -:tr-
ried from one room to another. At other j
seasons of the war It can bo worn as
an outdoor wrap when he is taken for an ,
airing In tne yard or on the piazza. "
To make It taKe a square of flannel or
any soft woolen material measuring a yard
or a yard and a quarter each way. and
round on? one corner to form the cap por-
tion. Mark the edge of the shawl nil
around into scallops and work with white
embroidery silk-in button, bole stitch.
Next run a double line of shirring
around the cap portion to fit around the
face, and across the corner to draw the
cap to the size and shape of the neck.
Strengthen the shirrings on the under
side with inch wide white ribhon and at
tach ribbon strings to the neck.
if a. lining is desired for the cap white
China silk may be used, but it will not
be really necessary if the material select
ed for developing the garment is as soft
and warm as it should be.
When a more elaborate effect is sought
the shawl may beornamented with em
broidery in, each of the corners, but for
ordinary uses the plain buttonholed edge
la in better taste, besides being more
easily laundered.
Tiie Nervous Baby.
When a mot tier observes, anx iuusly,
that her baby is a "bundle of nerves'
she is nearer the truth than she some
times realizes. t
A baby's nerves are much more, delicate
and sensitive, in proportion to his size,
than those of a grown person, and the
foundation of an adult life of acute suf
fering is often thoughtlessly laid out for
him while he is as yet too 3-oung ami
hnlpless to protect himself. '
Heedless slamming of doors, boisterous
talk or laughter, and. in fact, sudden or
unexpected demonstrations of any sort
are all disturbing to the baby's nervous
system, and all produce ill effects that are
more or less lastin-?.
Quite as much harm is done, however,
by injudicious efforts to amuse the help
less little mortal. Bouncing him aloft
and swinging him In the arms are as bad
for his nerves as for his stomach and
especially at bedtime, when excitement
of any sort is bound to result either in
wakefulness or uneasy slumber.
He should travel as little as possible hi
street cars and trains, and not at all in
motor cars; for rapid motion is a menace.
not to his eyes only, but to his lungs
and brain.
It seems hardly believable that in this
fon tn soften the li:inl look any silk alone
niclifsi in tlio lovolk'st HKht i!U on the
other lmml require only muslin lining,
ami for tlicso tin1 same roaily-maile nn-
tlerbotl it-rK tnlk..il aWoiu m:ty lie ii'Jeil. will
diirts tjiK--n in thfi fruni for Hie w1im!-
lwncs ii trimly lit ted silk w.H.-n scum-llmcs
requires.
I !-( t v .'o-U Cut"
I'reuv neck nit fur the cIitsmt fancy
' I
bodice show shallow siiiaivc, ami a flight
round which is quite little sirl In pretti-
Tlie.se are mostlv
for social or hor
for trie high trim? pn rem stuck Is thought
in lietter tusle for the pnblle Riltlierlns?.
For til.'
riM?nt'd home newer knows liow to ar-
ritnse drooping bertha effects, for thfl
front, the same -will take off ten good
the week's pleturcs, shows this bertha
treatment tn :i deep square. Pale pink
ribbon, white net and French lace are ma
terials. A Cliiu'miii;: Low Corsage.
A second waLst in this picture deserves
to be pointed out. for it represents -a
charming low.comige which may be got
up at a moment's notice. That is if a girl
has inherited two matching lace collars
from a fairy godmother, or can afford two
In a pretty Imitation. Put over the shoul
ders in this quaint fashion.' with the endrt
meeting back and front, two smart deep
collars would almost make a costume.
Anyway, copy the pHttern for a bertha
treatment of any little ai Ik. organdy or
swiss gown, using either the gown mn -terial
or dotted swlus or t nckd net t ir
the shoulder flounce. Narrow Va lend en-
nes. gathered in a frill, makes a pretty
edge.
enl ii?ri tened ae;e any Rrown oerson could
be lillotic t-noiiBh to make hltleous grim-
aces for a little child's "amusement," or
to simulate bears and "bogies" and other
moiiHters, or to resort to any one of the
n it in berless xtupld and cruel devices with
which nearly all childhood Is, unhappily.
I familiar: yet thero can be no Question
whatever as to its being the actual truth.
' Nor Is the offender always an ignorant
nursemaid, either.
Many little .children are rendered nerv-
ous: and irritable nowadaws by too great
a number and diversity of toys.
"The fewer tilings a babj- has to play wit hi
the better, and there should be nothing
that is not of the simplest construction.
A "Teddy" Bear" is the idcnl plaything,
for it 13 at once life-like. oft and warm
for baby to hug and fondle, and eapablo
of performing all sorts of quietly amus
ing antics.
Mechanical toys, on the other hand, are
well enough for children of the school
age. but not for the babies, whose tender
brains are easily tired.
There is no more serious mistake than
that of stimulating a baby to "take no
tice.' Nature has her own wise method
of attending to all such matters, and to
hurry her along is simpiy to open the
way for inevitable disaster.
Hints For Thursday.
In the forenoon the bedrooms shouM
be thoroughly cleaned.
Sweep the Hoors and dust the furniture.
Wipe off the mirrors and picture g! asses
with a cloth dampened in ammonia water.
Also wic off the baseboards with am
monia water.
Tf a white iron bed is used it can be
wonderfully freshened by , being washed
with scouring soap.
Households keeping a servant should
give her this "afternoon out." She shi-iM
prepare as much of the dinner as possinK;
before going' out.
She can get the vegetables ready, for
cooking, prepare the desert and set' th
tablf.
After dinner it is best to wash the silver.
The dishes should he scraped and piled
neatly together for to be washed the next
morning.
Ginger Pound Cuke.
BY KHANv'RS MORHAX.
One-half pound butter, pound sugar,
4 pound Hour, 1 teacup .sour cream, 4
eggs, J- pint molasses, in which dissolve
1 teaspoon soda ; 1 teaspoon ginger. Add
of a nutmeg. spoon cinnamon.
Cream the butter and sugar. Add tlm
eggs, well beaten, then the molasses,
spices, cream and flour.
Bake nearly an hour In .. moderate
oven.