The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, October 28, 1906, PART FOUR, Page 47, Image 47

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    THE tailored coat, striking everywhere
from the hips to the bottom of the
skirt, is just now much exploited by
good makers. Generally it Is part of a
costume with a sweeping1 skirt for the
shorter jackets are much more practica
ble with walking lengths, but not infre
quently one will be seen with a trattoir
gown. Made in plain cloth and other suit
able "Winter materials, such costumes
have a special dignity and smartness.
Figures of good carriage bear them off
with great distinction, and the models
give much opportunity for elegance of de
tail. The coats are loose, half loose and
tight-fitting, and more than one suggests
.the Empire modes in some trimming ar
rangement or cut of the upper part. The
thort-waisted look will he suggested by
braids, strapped bands, embroidery or
velvet this producing the effect of a lit
tle coat; or ome thinnlsh material may
be gathered at a high waist line, shirring
the back and sides of the coat quaintly,
while the fronts hang loose. Again a
semi-Empire look is given by underbust
trimmings, which shorten the waist at
these points, and leave it elswhere at the
usual quarter. The thing seems to be, in
fact, merely to suggest the Empire effect,
and this is so artfully done that the neg
ligee look of the entire- Empire thing is
happily absent.
Such coats as follow the usual lines of
the figure, with side seams smartly and
yet slightly sinking Into the waist, are
often made with a seamless back. ''Pale
tot is the name Importers give such a
garment, which, however, smartened as
it Is with trimming, goes with a plainly
gored or untrlmmed pleated skirt. One
slight exception is seen, though this touch
can scarcely be called trimming: and that
Is a wide braid, such as may be used on
the coat, put under the hem of the skirt
The Ostrich Vice of the Nagging Woman
TT CLEVER woman once described nag
ging as "the ostrich vice." On be
ing asked for an explanation of the
phrase she sai1: "The ostrich, you know,
thinks he's hiddon If his head is In the
sand. We laugh at his stupid blindness,
but he Is no more stupid nor blind than
are nine out of ten women, every one of
whom will complacently declare that if
there's one fault she is guiltless of it's
nagging. Whereas the truth is that nine
women out of ten do nag."
The apparent cynicism of this state
ment is equalled only by its truth. Every
bride makes up her mind firmly, oh, so
firmly, on that question of nagging. She
may fall into other faults, she Is ready to
admit: she may lack good judgment, she
may develop selfishness, she may become
extravagant, she may fall to be resource
ful in a crisis, but there is just one thing
she knows she'll never do she will never,
never be guilty of nagging.
But with an insidiousness that suggests
lu descent from the serpent of Eden the
habit of nagging creeps slyly into the
best regulated families. And it almost
always comes by way of Eve rather than
Adam. If Adam had kept a diary of the
" dally or hourly events of that first house
hold tinder the vine and fig tree and if
we could find it, we should without doubt
tie able to discover that it was by per
sistent nagging that Eve won her point
on the fatal apple question. Erudition
may yet go so fur as to reveal the fact
that the phrase "the woman tempted me''
may be rendered "the woman nagged
me." This could lie authorized by the
discovery of the following conversation
rerorted in Adam's diary:
Eve You haven't tasted that apple yet,
have you?
Adam No, Eve, I don't intend to.
Eve But I want you to do so.
Adam Please don't bother me.
Eve Well, you'll be sorry if you don't.
Fifteen minutes later the serpent whis
pers to Eve, "Ask hinf again."
Eve Adam, have you tasted that apple
yet?
Adam No. Eve.
Eve How many times will I have to
ask you?
Adam Don't bother me.
An hour later the serpent says: "Ask
him again." Eve follows his advice.
Another half hour passes and Eve re
news the attack. An hour later she
repeats her question. Another 15 min
utes go by and Eve makes another.
At last poor Adam's resistance is worn
to a frazzle and he yields. The result
we all know only too well.
It is small wonder, then, that the
feminine failing come so naturally to
"
J Empire Modes Suggested in
ss J
to show only in a narrow edge or with
movement of the kiltings. When black is
used with color, this is a smart note for
the short skirt, and so helpful is It that
any trimming used upon the coat may
be employed In this dust-trimming way.
Marked and stylish features of all the
best coat sleeves, and especially those
with some Empire suggestion, are the
deep upturned cuffs, which In some in
stances are extremely wide. The sleeves
are three-quarter length, and below the
cuffs hang deckinga of lace, biases of
contrasting cloth or velet, or tiny un
dersleeves of ruffled and puffed silk have
a delightfully home-made air. A few of
the smart coat gowns are made with
long sleeves, but as the shorter lengths
are far more elegant thoy are likely to
continue through the Winter. Heavy
glace gloves and big muffs will help to
soften their chilly possibilities, though as
to that, the matter of comfort is sup
posed to be secondary to Fashion. "Pride
keeps us warm" is the unprlnted label
which might go with these short-sleeved
styles; and doubtless the exhilaration of
prettiness has something to do with the
fact that they are not conducive to pneu
monia. The coat costumes pictured by the
week's drawings display three distinctive
and elegant models. The long skirt gowns
are supposed to be for carriage wear, as it
is no longer the smart thing to lift a
skirt in walking; but somewhere, some
how, the sweeping skirt gets In a chance
to show Its graceful possibilities.
A handsome toilette of deep gray cloth
is for any use other than purely prac
tical ones. The plain skirt of this has
the round full sweep of jupes which ex
ceed the trottoir lengths, and the deep
cuffs In the same shade, forms a square
low vest in tucks and bands. The band
bust trimmings are made in the same
way, the two materials also forming the
quaint ruffled undersleeves. The large
even the best of women. They call it
by all sorts of names so as to disguise
its real character from themselves. It
is "reminding," "suggesting," "keep
ing an eye on," "looking after," any
thing but the hideous habit of "nag
ging." A curious thing about the habit
is that it most often arises from a gen
uine desire to Improve existing condi
tions. The husband who begins to
grow round-shouldered does not, natur
ally enough, realize this growng habit,
because when he stands in front of the
mirror he Instinctively assumes an
Apollo pose. It is the observant eye of
the wife that catches sight of the
stooping shoulders when his vanity is
ofT its guard. She begins by telling"
him gently that he is growing careless
about his figure. He makes a feeble
effort now and then to straighten up,
but the habit grows and the wife
speaks more and more frequently about
it. She means to be tactful and to speak
very gently, but In spite of her best
Intentions an acerbity creeps into her
tone. Before she realizes it she is say
ing with exasperating frequency: "Do
hold your shoulders straighter!" or
"Don't stoop over so!" or "If you only
knew how badly you look or if you
cared about my feelings you wouldn't
let yourself get so round-shouldered!"
Multiply one day's such "reminding"
by 300 days in the year, and the re
sult well deserves the epithet of nag
ging. If a husband does not comply
with the first few requests to change
any personal habt which the wife ob
jects to, the critical but wise wife will
quietly give up the fight. When neither
his vanity nor his desire to please his
wife is strong enough to make him re
form the habit, whatever It is, it is no
use for the wife to keep on talking.
Instead of being irritated when she
sees the erstwhile noble figure of her
husband falling into ungraceful habits,
sprawling in a chair instead of sitting
upright, becoming stoop-shouldered or
projecting itself abdominally into
space, she will convince herself that
he is Just as lovable and dear as he
ever was. She will discipline her
tongue by imagining how she would
feel if he were 'continually reminding
her that her figure was losing its
sylph-like charm or that she ought not
to allow those little lines to get a foot
hold around the corners of her eyes.
She will paraphrase the Scripture text
and say to herself, "Speak unto others
as you would that others should speak
unto you" if she is a wise wife.
One woman who had virtuously an
nounced at a luncheon party that nag
ging was one fault she thanked heaven
she was free from said a few minutes
later: "Yes, I do approve of eggs lor
THE SUNDAY OKEGOXIAN, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 28, 1906.
hat is of gray felt with feathers shading
from gray to black, and velvet toned in
the same way.
French lady's cloth in a rich shade of
blue, forms the trottoir dress, whose long
vest of white moire is embroidered with
blue and black. At the back and sides of
the coat is the short waisted Empire gath
ering; the sleeves are elbow length and
the kilted skirt shows the smartness how
exacted by Fashion for short jupes.
The smart headpiece with this costume
displays one of the season's desirable
walking hats.
Still another Empire effect Is shown by
the third gown, which is of dull prune
cloth with an all but invisible stripe.
Tiny tucks fit the coat of this into the
figure, shaded prune braid, with a thread
of tinsel, outlining a little jacket effect
above this treatment. The long vest,
which is of white cloth with a neck and
front outlining of the braid beyond a vel
vet edges, gives a graceful sweep to the
coat, whose sleeves are three-quarter
length with braid trimmed cuffs. The plain
skirt has the under dust trimming of
braid and velvet described.
An Egllsh walking hat of prune colored
felt and velvet with an odd white plume
of "doctored" paradise tops this smart
toilette appropriately.
Of course, if one cannot afford a fur
coat a warm coat-gown is dndispensable;
for unless it is of fur, the odd coat will
have little place in Fashion's catalogue
of elegancies. Jackets of skins namable
and othewise for strange pelts are turned
out by man's art are seen without num
ber, delightful little matching toques go
ing with 3ome. and others displaying a
muff as well, gay with some of the coat
trimmings. One oddity is make up mink
in such a way as to show off the stripes
ornamentally; these going over the fronts
and back of the garment Is a smart bias,
and then bordering the coat all round in a
breakfast: I always have one, but my
husband never w;ill eat them. I try my
best to get him to take one. Every morn
ing I say to hira, 'Dick," do have an egg
please try one! It would be so good for
you: won't you have one?" But the very
thought of it seems to exasperate him!"
This sweet little woman never dreamed
that she -was nagging her husband about
that precious egg. It is safe, however,
to say that the husband had no such
illusions on the subject.
Annoying habits of untidiness are a
faithful cause of nagging. The man who
was never brought up to be careful or
orderly in the care of his clothes will not
be likely to change these haphazard ways
Just because his wife takes him to task.
"As the twig is bent, the tree's inclined,"
is an adage every woman who marries
a man over 30 ought to keep In mind. At
first he will soon begin to call it nagging,
to himself, at least. When a man feels
that he has a right to apply that op
probrious term to the "reminding" of his
wife, she has lost a certain part of the
admiration she loves to claim from him.
An old lady whose married life had been
conspicuous for its serenity was asked
The Craze for Fancy Hatpins
Cf I T ,19 the perfect love of a hat, Mad
I a me Louise, but there is no place for
my hatpins," said a well-dressed woman
sitting before a mirror at the milliner's.
The milliner shrugged her shoulders.
"It is true," she admitted, turning the hat
around critically, "but well, we might
arrange this bow to make room for one
pin on this side."
The woman looked doubtfully at the
bow and then at the two exquisite hatpins
on the table before her. "No," she said,
reluctantly, "I'm afraid it would spoil
the smart touch that bow gives the whole
hat to move it. I'll look further. Thank
you, bo much." And she put on her own
hat and swept out.
Such is the craze for novel and elabor
ate hatpins that milady now buys a hat
to tone with her pins, that is. unless her
purse is unusually well filled and she may
satisfy her taste In hatpins to go with
each bat.
Jewelers have had many orders recently
to set odd old stones family heirlooms,
perhaps into hatpins. Some of the most
expensive pins have been made from large
uncut rubles, chunks of opal or Jade, ham
mered bits of gold and specimens of in
laid tortoise shell.
A favorite hatpin of Scotland is the
the Trimming
rp c
straight line. Short models are preferred
for the fur Jackets, which must be jaunty
In line to offset the clumsiness of the ani
mal skin. The modelB range from the
waist-length pony styles to boleros above
the belt; while any skin sufficiently pliable
to be fashioned into a blouse will have
the comfort of great snugness, for deep
belts hold these into the figure all round.
Embroidered cloth In rich colors such as
a touch of deep blue on brown, gray or
yellow or green or coral with black is
a rewarding garniture. A modicum of vel
vet and glistening black braid will also be
used, while Jeweled buttons of fabulous
bigness and splendor will set off a smart
little cravat or the fronts in some way.
The very melanges cf skins employei.are
in themselves ornamental, for the most
widely differing pelts will be put together.
A mink pony coat seen and which, by the
way, is here illustrated was trimmed
with ermine, a charming little ermine and
mink hat going with this. With chinchilla
coats gray chiffon furbishings are in keep
ing, while there may be a vest with tin
sel embroideries carrying out the same
silvery scheme. A few smart little Etons
of seal, made gay with cloth edges, braids,
fine buttons and lace cravats, suggest
charming ways of doing over old sealskin
coats. For like Persian lamb, good seal
by a bride for the secret of her happi
ness. "I often think, my dear, that it
is because I never formed the habit of
nagging. My girlhood was spent in a
household where there was constant bick
ering and so I determined that there
should never be that spirit in my home.
When I was a bride I had a serious talk
with my husband, in which I told him
my desire not to get into the habit of
continually reminding him of the things
it was his business to look after. I told
him that I should never speak to him
about a neglected duty more than three
times, no matter how serious the conse
quences were."
"But did he always attend to the re
quest with only three 'remindings?' ' the
bride asked Incredulously.
"Tes. because he learned by bitter ex
perience. Once he lost a considerable sum
of money because he did not heed my
three warnings that -It was time to turn
in certain claim papers. When he re
proached me for not having told him to
attend to the matter I replied -that I had
spoken three times and that now he must
realize that when I said, 'This Is the
third time I have spoken about this: I
shall not speak of it again,' the time
had come for prompt action. I was care
ful not to bother him with trifling re
quests, for I knew that he bore the bur
den of the bread-winner. The result of
my resolution that there should not be
the irritating repetition of requests is the
beautiful piece of our life."
thistle, the flower of the country, fash
ioned of gold and amethysts or gold and
topaz. Another odd hatpin of that coun
try 1b made from a number of Scotch peb
bles Inlaid in old silver. A conspicuous
detail of the British pin is the strength
and firmness of the pin itself; it is a veri
table stiletto.
One ingenious woman who has returned
from a trip through various parts of Can
ada has had two souvenirs which were
given her during her travels set on hat
pins. One was a small gold dog and the
other was a pin with the Canadian arms
in gold enamel. They are not as pretty
as some of the pins in the shop windows
or the Jeweler's showcases, but they are
odd and Interesting and It is one method
of disposing, usefully of the souvenirs.
Some of the imitation stones or amber
or coral tops are eo heavily set as to be
almost topheavy, but worn with the right
hat they add a very effective touch to the
trimming.
A large cameo pin was made over into a
hatpin and used in a hat of gray soft felt
trimmed with slate-colored ostrich feath
ers and I'elvet ribbon In two tones of gray.
The cameo In its delicate pink tints was
the only color on the chapeau. and the
effect was dainty and quaint, yet entirely
up to date.
or Cut of Latest Garments
" C r
may be redyed and made over to almost
its last hour, and the more contrast of
trimming the better the effect of this
rather commonplace fur.
Little jackets of Persian or baby lamb
are very useful purchases, for black goes
with everything, and the unborn qualities
of this skin have a special vogue for ele
gance. The skin of the grown animal Is
more durable, the skin is easily matched
and its wearing qualities endless. Two
little coats of Persian and baby lamb, in
new and smart styles, are shown by the
week's cuts; a deep green cloth with
gold and black "braid forming the trim
ming of the blouse one.
As to the smart fur of the season,
there is really no favorite. All the old
friends are seen, and so liberal is Fashion
on the score of pelts that the most pat
ently imitation thing passes smart muster
if it is made up in good style. Everything
from hide of the opossum to the skin of
the innocent Jackrabblt is seen, but a
great deal of art is shown In matching
furs with just the right costume. For
example, with a plainish' tailor gown of
black cloth, rough serge or tweed, the
longer-haired furs are found to give the
best effects. Huge sets of fox, or any
thing which imitates fox, will be decked
City Kitchens to Supply an
A CO-OPERATIVE kitchen in the .
middle of every New York City
Block to serve all the residents of that
block is the latest solution offered for the
eternal problem that faces every house
keeper. Co-operative colonies, from long before
the days of Brook farms down to the
latest experiment by Upton Sinclair, have
devoted time, energy and money to the
solution of these exasperating but not to '
be dodged factors in home life, but they
all involved getting away from the city
and founding a place apart, where all the
manifold kinks in the individual home
could be straightened out and the path
of the housekeeper made free from bumps
and easy of travel. This idea has, of
course, left out of consideration the thou
sands of those who, while agreeing with
the thought underlying the movement,
have been utterly unable, from financial
reasons, to join forces with the seekers
after freedom from worry, and it is to
those who have to remain in town year
in and year out ana keep the wheels
moving that the plan advanced by Charles
R. Lamb, president of. the Municipal Art
Society, will commend itself for consid
eration. Mr. Lamb said:
"If the artists can get together as they
have done in the new Art Club studios
and lfave their meals cooked in one
kitchen: if the great hotels can feed
thousands and thousands with entire sat
isfaction day after day; If the Summer
resorts can cater to throngs, care free of
the questions of supply and cooking; if
on an ocean steamer a small cityful of
people are fed with regularity and ease
far beyond the base of supplies, is it not
folly for the people who make up the
rectangle of an average city block to go
on with the heat, dirt, discomfort, mental
as well as physical, to say nothing of
the almost criminal waste involved In the
present system of having the cooking for
each individual house carried on in each
house when it might just as well. In fact,
much better, be done for all hands in a
central kitchen?
"Just see how many of the things which
go to make the life of the average house
keeper one long string of annoyances
would be done away with by having in
the center of a city block a well-equipped,
carefully conducted kitchen. A steward,
a chef and the necessary complement of
cooks and handlers of dishes would not
take anywhere near the aggregate, em
ployed for these purposes under the in
dividual system, and the saving in that
Item alone would mean a considerable
sum in a year. Then the saving brought
about by buying in bulk the maps of food
which would be required is no small sum,
lor it is well known that the difference
7 tXFM
,
with fluffy tails, the long fluffy boas and
fat muffs showing besides a generous
sprinkling of heads with glittering bead
eyes and half-open mouths painted a vivid
red. The little unstiftened feet of the
animal dangle also wistfully from these
stylish trappings, so that fair woman will
go about with much the look of the suc
cessful hunter. Lastly, mole has a fresh
ened vogue, and so smart is this soft
brown color that many dashing walking
frocks are seen in it with very short kilt
ed skirts and the jaunty Jacket trimmed
sometimes with the skin. A charming
mole-tinted get-up seen displayed this col
or from the hat to the spats of the little
patent leather shoes. The gown material
was the ever-prevailing plain cloth, for
however many fancy textures there are
in the market, cloth has by far the most
modish prestige. The new sorts are heav
ier than the qualities worn last Winter,
and with some dim artistic shades of blue,
mole,-dull gray and prune color create
stylish effects. Glistening soutache braid
is put upon everything, this is black gen
erally, but sometimes a cloth toilette in
one color will show stitched bands and
little tailor buttons, put on in close rows
with very decorative effect.
The success of the short gown Is de
cidedly Influencing the petticoat, and not
in price and" weight between wholesale j
buying and retail selling has meant more
than one fortune in New York City alone.
"Another question to be considered is
that of fuel and its consumption and
handling. Coal is supplied and burned
and the ashes removed for each house in
the block, and each of these processes j
means dust, dirt and expense. 1
"Now, supposing you take from the six
yards in the center of the block enough
ground on which to erect a two-story
building, on one side of which would be
an entrance for teams with supplies,
reached by a passageway the width of one
house, from one of the two crosstown
streets. This building should be a par
allelogram, and from each end a cov
ered passageway would touch every yard
in the block, having a door for every
house plot. Here could be established
the necessary force for supplying the
whole block with food, cooked under the
most favorable conditions, in a way to
satisfy an infinite variety of individual
tastes, served promptly and in any style
demanded and purchased at a minimum
of cost. The problem is really no more
difficult of solution than that of catering
to the needs of the inhabitants of any one
of the great apartment houses or hotels
wiich have made the city famous. The
cost of the land taken could be settled
by competent appraisers and paid for out
of the profits of the big kitchen, which
could be divided at any time agreed upon
among the customers of the kitchen.
This may seem a radical change from
the present method of keeping house, but
would it not do away at a stroke with a
whole lot of evils?"
"Would not the food cost more, supplied
to households In that manner?" Mr. Lamb
was asked.
"Possibly it might, but I doubt It. when
you add to the present first cost of a
family's food, as represented by the mar
ket and grocery bills, the expense of
ranges to cook it on, fuel to cook it with,
and the wages of servants, to say noth
ing of the results of their wasteful meth
ods and their propensity to desert at
short notice, or none at all. And, besides,
see how much cooler and cleaner and
I more comfortable a house would be with
out cooking, save that which might be
done at a chafing-dish party or over an
alcohol lamp, when there was sickness
which called for special measures. The
economies which present themselves at a
first glance would seem to overcome, or
rather answer, your question, but my idea
would carry, in addition to the points
outlined, the employment of a bookkeep
er, whose accounts would be audited by
a committee of housekeepers, and this
committee, holding, say. for a year, could
easily check any waste or extravagance
and the profits for there would be profits
i
nearly so many fussy silk ones are worn
as formerly. To give the slim girlish
look the short gown requires the under
skirt is necessarily skimpy and restrained
In trimming. Black taffeta with a tucked
or corded flounce and the skirt made with
a deer., closely fitting hip yoke, forms
many short-skirt petticoats. Headgear for
such gowns Is equally influenced, for it
must be kept within bounds to keep with
in the generally slim and jaunty schemes.
The best millinery for walking use Is com
pact, with trimmings put on with a tail
ored trimness, and wings, quills and bird
heads taking the place of the elegant
feathers used elsewhere.
But let the buyer of a hat with quills
see to it that they are neither too wide
nor too long, for otherwise they behave
much like the arms of a windmill, veer
ing about with strong breezes in a very
ungainly way. For so lightfully is smart
millinery made that It Is virtually glued
together, and quills above all resist a
solid fastening. To create the properly
careless effect, they must look as If Just
stuck In which is almost carried out to
the letter. Neat little turbans which
. stand wind and rain anything in fact
are made of folded felt with fluffy side
choux of velvet. On children's millinery
and everf on grown-up sorts, tufts of
marabout are also used.
Entire Block
if it were properly handled would he re
turned to the householders, to offset any;
Increase in the cost of food supplied."
Mr. Lamb's sketch gives a suggestion
of his idea of a central cooking station,
and he said that, while the Municipal
Art Society had not formally taken up
the subject, there was a strong feeling
that if one block in the city could be
equipped with such a building under com
petent management it would speedily be
lonowea Dy otners. ami me buiuuuu ul
one of the most important questions of
city housekeeping would be In sight.
The Abandoned Cottage.
New York Times.
Just close the little house up tight.
Let all the blinds be drawn;
She well, she doesn't miss the. light
Of day where she is gone.
You'd better nail the gate tight shut.
Make fast the shutters, too;
I may come back I don't know bat
Not soon, If e'er I do. '
No! Leave the things Just as they are)
Inside she had them so.
Just lock the place up tight and bar
The doors, and then we'll go. ,
I'm not much of a hand for 'dreamsj
I know It's foolish when
She's gone but. do you know, it seems
She might come back again?
When every picture on the wall
Speaks In Its voiceless way
And her voice seems to call and eall-4
No! No! I couldn't stay.
Just close the house up tight I must
Forget It all, somehow;
So let things molder in the dust
Dust that's all left me now.
We'll close the little place up tight.
It doesn't matter now;
I've got my foe of grief to fight,
I'll master him somehow.
But here no. no! We'll close the door
And pass out reverently
Seek to forget what's gone before
And face what is to be.
Don't move a book, a vase, a chair;
Those flowers let them lie;
She left things as they are in there.
So leave them now and aye.
I'm not much of a hand for dreams
I know it's foolish when
She's gone, but somehow well, it seem
She might come back again.
Song of the Opal.
Appleton's.
I am a whirl of ruddy Are, where lies ft
whisper of the moon.
I am the ghost of some pale roue that
breaks its perfumed heart too soon;
A rift of blue, a snatch of cloud, a garden
full of Fummer kies.
And, changing like a truant flight of rest
less pilgrim butterflies.
Upon white arms I He at rest, upon whit
fingers burn and glow.
As If some master hand had lit my colored
fires amid the enow.