THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 7, 1906. 43 I".-----.- ... jt m ii ii ii -ev ii ii it ii i or a vi TOILETTES WITH EI.EGAXT ACCESSORIES. BT MARY DEAN. STREET styles for young girls seem very closely related to the costumes trottolr their mammas are wearing; The box or side pleated, or smartly gored skirts are a shade shorter, the Eton or bolero Jackets " or cape bodice effect a shade less trimmed. But fundamentally the trig little frocks are the same the identical odd mushroom walking hats often accompanying them. But it is the mamma who copies her daughter, of course, for to be genuinely the thing the best gowns must effect this simple youth fulness. With hats it is different, and with these girls from 18 up are only too often preco cious, for burdensome trimmings and co quettish woman-shapes are her privilege. Mothers who have any say In the matter, and know the fitness of things, wisely taboo these sophisticated headpieces, for certainly ostrich feathers, massed bows and full blown roses do not add to the fresh charm of sweet 16. When It comes to party frocks or those for specially dressy functions, young, girl's styles are perfect, for then, childish frillB, sweetly simple little bertha- effects and sashes have full play. To get up a proper girl wardrobe at any time of the year Is a far easier mat ter than formerly. All of the big shops cater to maiden ages, and since a mea sure of restraint must always be shown, It comes febout often that misses' styles are more- generally desirable than any others. Just' at this moment' toilettes for school ages are much to the fore, hats, coats and costumes for practical purposes naturally outnumbering dress ier things. The little coat gowns of cloth, serge, voile, flannel and other suit able materials are very smart, many shades, of brown, running from dead leaf to a " bright rosewood, being seen. R;d", too. In rich, dull tones, is much ex ploited, and unnumbered effects are dis played In shadow checks and plaids. A smart combination' with black and whit check, or stripe,-is the use of gay plaid silks, which, are used at the front of the coats and bottoms of three-quarter sleeves in flowing ties and undero eleeve effects. The skirt, whatever Its model, displays none of this, for It la only the Jacket which Is glct-lfled. Serge Is a specially smart street material, and there are two distinct sorts, one In a herringbone of glossy fineness, the other so coarse as to raise large ridges. Sou tache braids are thought smart embel lishments for these stuffs, and the cos tume Is invariably In trim coat style, though a dainty vest and ornamental col lars and cuffs may give it a very smart air. The most desirable of the little gown coats hang loosely no farther than the waist, and the French pony styles, showing many odd departures from usual lines. These may be slashed at the bot tom and hung underneath with quillings of silk and velvet, and sometimes there is a hood effect at the back, ornamented with a long tassel. Sleeves of these are in scant three-quarter glgots, or else in full puffs of the same length, the cuff trimming matching that used about the neck. One very .smart neck finish for a coat of this description was a shawl collar, which, folding far over at the left bust, rose high at the neck in cosy winter way: Blue velvet formed this a faded shade somewhat on the tone of Saxe the gown material being a fancy wool In black and white checks. Other coats are col larless or with revers so made as to be there only for ornament, braids, embroid eries and what not outlining the round or slightly squared necks. Many close fit ting Etons with wrist length sleeves are seen, and these upon the right figure are quite smart, besides presenting the ad vantage of being more facile to acquire. For. despite the immense desirability of the loose Jackets over all others, . such styles are only presented as copies of high-priced Imported models, and. besides being rarer, they are more expensive than "I the close cuts. Plain cloth, with a high satiny finish, Is much employed for the dressier- cos tumes, and with this narrow stitched bands combined with rows of little orna mental buttons are frequent deckings. The veilings and silk gowns for smartest wear (for silk is worn by all ages) show unnumbered daintinesses; small collars and cuffs of beautiful. lacex show-. 1ng often upon pony or blouse coats, which cuts, being more elegant than the plainer Etons, are more often employed for smart toggery. Under the coats are worn lingerie bodices of Ideal fineness, jmarl street omris- ior young guns and delicacy of treatment: hand-embroidery or limited quantities ot fine Valenciennes trimming these. Some times the blouse la of silk, though, in white or the color of the gown, orlse in little checks or broad plaids which may harmonize with the- gown color. A modish finish for the neck of these is a high turnover linen collar worn with a narrow string tie though the same -high collar effects are -often made of white satin, stiff with hand-embroidery.- Colored plaid shirt waists, with circu lar skirts In black Panama, compose a neat classroom get up, much affected by tasteful schoolgirls. Again th$ shirt waist will be in plain taffetas black or color and the skirt of plaid or checked wool, with narrow baby velvet smartly trimming the two. Velvet ribbon in bright plaid is a very smart school girl trimming and when properly applied to a shirtwaist in black taffetas the result is as dashing as durable. Odd coats for young girls have the looseness now approved, ' the models hanging from smart long shoulder yokes, or In box or side pleats from the neck Itself. Very wisely the sleeves of these are wrist length, and the coat may fall anywhere from the hips to the skirt bot tom. Tan, brown, gray, . green and red cloths are the materials of these, with a touch of velvet or braid for the neck and sleeve finish. Storm coats are numerous, and some In bold plaid wools with odd brass but tons have a dashing traveling air. These are loose or half-fitting, the skirts of some of the more shapeless ones going out at the bottom with an immense flare. Beautiful coats and cape cloaks for even ing wear are in white, pale blue and rose colored cloth, charming gowns, cut out slightly at the neck of soft pale ellk going with these, as well as fluffy feather sets and big hats with fly-away ribbon bows, or else with ostrich feathers immensely long and rich. Apropos of feathers, the downy marabout is Immensely in favor. The oddest combinations are made with the .muffs and tippets, plumage in one color showing tinted tips in another, and tufts lightening the ends of hat quills or else manipulated in some way to form an upstanding aigrette. A pretty girl with a white marabout set, and an even ing coat trimmed with it, is like a big bird and the eye unaccustomed to such elegancies stares with some of the won der one showers on the rare feathered creature. In departments purely millinery, quills have dashing place. and some are so long, so wide that they slant In hats like swords. For ordinary use sailor hats with these deckings put on at the side with huge ribbon or velvet bows are much seen. Girls with Jauntier tastes affect slde tllted shapes trimmed with wings, which, like the quills reproduce effects never seen in Nature. A flat brim hat of woolly felt, garnished solely with wide ribbon or vel vet in elaborate child way is a. very usual headpiece for the younger ages. As to the sailor hats, they have grown In size, which Is a happy change, for the little bob-tailed English sorts were by no means always becoming. Especially upon young girls did they seem foolish, for the masses of undertrimming required more of a coiffure than is permitted the maiden head. ' Descriptions of cuts are as follows: A street gown for a girl from 16 to 18 is of deep green cloth with a white vest and green and black braid on the Jacket. This Is one of the oddest and prettiest of the season's Etons, a cross trimming at the bottom of the shoulder pleats giving some of the full short-walsted look now desired. The skirt, which has a princess cut at the top, Is fastened with black but tons down the left side. A deep tuck In the flaring bottom for the top is cut to fit the hips closely simulates an overskirt. A high linen collar is worn with as black satin bow cravat. Another Eton dress for the same age is of blue diagonal wool, with the stuff cut bias and employed upon the loose fronted Jacket as stoles. Tiny pointed revers of white cloth set at the bust and held by blue and black buttons are smart features, to which a square lace collar gives an elegant touch. A wide girdle of soft black liberty is the line of union with the plain skirt. Pale " sweetgum colored cloth, with narrow soutache and tiny silk covered buttons In the same shade are the ma terials of a smart afternoon frock. This Is made with a belted blouse Jacket, fitted ' at the shoulders with Gibson pleats; the braid and buttons, which are put on the full skirt in a big uneven block effect,, trims it sparsely. . A narrow belt of ribbon belting in the same pale brown, fas tened with an ornamental buckle, gir dles the waist. The fourth gown ' in this picture, which is the larger one of the two, shows one of the phases of the French pony coat. Dull red cloth Is the mate rial of this, a scarf of soft black silk, falling at the front with a bow and tasseled ends threading through the slashed bottom of the coat In a novel way. The shoulder cut of the coat gives the long effect, which Is again approved, and the small collar is topped by pointed skirt of white satin held with black buttons. The pleated skirt Is fitted closely at the blps, with the flare approved beginning above the knees.' All the sleeves In these cuts are described elsewhere, with trimmings to accord in each individual case. In the smaller picture the daintiness of batiste and white silk are exploited in elegant bodice trimmings. A gown of pale gray voile shows the silk, which Is tucked and puffed for the bodice yoke and undersleeves. The bodice, which Is gathered full, has the effect of a low neck, stitched band of the voile and small gray silk buttons outlining It. The cap sleeves are made to cross at the outer arm, and are elaborate with tucks, stitched bands and buttons, falling short over the puffed and tucked silk undersleeves. A modicum of lace la used on the stock, at the front of which is a lad der of little bows in narrow green velvet. Bias green velvet girdles the waist, and above a plain hem effect the skirt Is trimmed with a tupked puff, edged with stitched bands .of the gown material. ' '. The second dress of this picture has one of the new quaint cape effects on the bodice. A novelty wool, in a dim green with a silk thread. Is the ma terial of this, with very dark green velvet ribbon and French mercerized lace for trimmings. On the waist of the costume this forms a yoke Inside the cape oneof the cloth, the velvet outlining- this, and trimming the belt and sleeves. A dainty detail is a front frill gathered at the -center of the lace, running down from the neck to the belt. The three-quarter puff sleeves have turn-back cuffs edged with the velvet. The hats shown with all ' these drawings are the sophisticated sorts allowed young' girls this season. The most sensible of the -collection is the sailor shape, which Is heavily trimmed at tho back with wide ribbon. - Making Candy for Winter Evenings A PLATE of home-made candy on the reading-table when the family is assembled after dinner on cool even ings adds a touch of homeliness and shows that some one In the circle has taken genuine personal Interest In the pleasure of her children, or brothers and sisters. An hour, maybe less, given to the little task of making it will be repaid by the pleasure of seeing family and friends enjoy It. . v " Many cooks make the mistake of using the common granulated sugar when mak lng any sort of candy. Here is a recipe for nut-fudge which, when sea sugar Is used. Is really a delicious confection: Not Fudge. Three cupsful of sea sugar and a -cup and a half either of water or milk. Boil very slowly until perfect drops form when a- little Is dropped Into cold water. Remove from fire and add a large tablespoonful of butter and some flavor ing If preferred, though the delicate flavor of the sugar is delicious when combined with the nuts. Beat until, very thick and add a cupful of your favorite nuts broken Into small bits. Turn Into well-buttered plate and mark in squares while still warm. It will break evenly when cool. The famous Everton taffy of Scotland Is made very simply, and is one of the most wholesome of sweets for children. Take one pound of whiie sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter and about a half a cup of water. Boil in a heavy pan on a very slow fire and stir onlv when neces sary to prevent sticking to the pan. Test in cold water, and when drops become hard it Is ready to be poured Into a well buttered tin. Do not use a plate. Cocoamrt Carmels. For these grind in your meat grinder a package, of cocoa nut very fine. Put a pound of granu lated sugar and a half a cup of water into a saucepan and stir until the sugar 1b dissolved. Wipe down the sides of the saucepan and boil until It spins a thread. Lift a little with a spoon and drop-It Into Ice water. If you can roll U into a little bnll in your fingers it Is sufficiently boiled. Take it carefully from the fire and allow it to stand a little while, then add a teaspoonful of vanilla and- the chopped cocoanut. Turn it into a square butted pan and pat it out into the thick ness of an inch. While It Is still warm mark It into squares. When cold, break , It Roll each bit in waxed paper for fa cilitating' its eating in the drawing-room. Walnut Layer. This is a delicious taffy. Take one and osre-half pints of walnut kernels and pound them very fine, one and a half pounds of brown sugar mixed with three-fourths of a cup of vinegar, and one-half a teaspoonful of gelatine dissolved in a little hot water. Place over a slow fire and cook until still. Pour half of the candy Into a buttered tin, then spread the chopped walnuts over the ton evenly and add the remaining half of the candy to the layers. Mark into, squares and break when cool. Candied nuts or fruit are very popular and very easily made. Put a pound of loaf sugar Into a cup and a half of water and boll quickly. . Take tVe shelled nuts or prepared fruit on the end of a meat skewer and dip them Into the syrup and place on buttered plate. If cherries or any stony fruit are used, they are much nicer If the stones are removed. Peanut Bar. Two pounds of white sugar and a large pinch (7f cream of tar tar dissolved in two gills of cold water. Cook over moderate fire until brittle, stir ring In about a half an ounce of butter. If the Inner skin of the peanuts . is re moved as well, as the shell, they are much more palatable. Put a thick layer Into a well-buttered tin and pour the candy over, then leave .to cool. Cut the bars about two inches long to half an inch wide. Almost every one is fond of a plain cream candy. Here is a verjr easy and popular recipe: Two pounds of lump sugar, one teaculful of water, one tablespoonful of butter, two table spoonfuls of vinegar. Boll for 20 minutes.- Just before taking- from the fire add a little flavoring, either- vanilla or lemon. Pour into a dish and stir until cold, when It is ready to eat. Chocolate Bonbons Put a half pound of chocolate into a sugar boiler and leave until soft. Mix with this an ounce of gum arable dissolved In a tablespoonful and a half of hot water. Stir this until -it Is very smooth and then add in two ounces -of - fine Icing sugar, mix well and drop the choco late from the spout of the sugar boiler and cut oft with wire to a, desirable size. When the candy is dry it is ready to eat. ... Almond tablets are an' English sweet end very tasty and will keep fresh 6for a long time If packed In tins. Put Into the sugar boiler seven pounds of sugar with one Quart of water and, I boll until it would crack if dropped into cold water. Turn it on a buttered board and work in four pounds of al monds. Then roll it up and put it aside to. cool and cut into slices. Sour Drops Three pounds of loaf sugar, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, three cupfuls of water. . Put these Into a sugar boiler and boll un til hard if dropped In water. Aftei taking- from the fire stir in a few drops of essence of lemon, pour the mixture onto a buttered board, sprin kle over and then mix in one table spoonful of tartaric acid, powdered. Put It on an oiled tin and keep warm. A little at a time take it and make into a thin roll and cut into small bits; then roll them in the palm of the hand and sprinkla with powdered sugar. Fruit drops are also a good confec tionery to keep packed away until wanted. Press a pound or so of rasp berries, strawberries or some fresh fruit through a fine hair sieve, then mix in some sugar; put this into a pan with a spout or lip to it and stir it over the fire- until boiling; make drops by letting the paste fall slowly from the pan; be careful not to crowd the drops. When ' cold, put the drops on a bleve and allow to dry. If you exercise care you can make a very palatable taffy from plain white sugar. Put about three cupfuls of sugar in a heavy pan and watch it carefully over a slow fire until it is a syrup;-then add a. tablespoonful of butter, which gives a. delicate flavor. Stir the candy as little as possible but- do not Iet.it scorch. .Cook until brittle when dropped into a glass of water. This If boiled the proper length - of ' time will be Just a little harder than caramels when cool. Candled popcorn is wholesome for children and very easily prepared. Put a quantity of granulated sugar in a large-sized kettle Just moistened with water and add a large tablespoonful of butter. Cook until crisp in water if dropped in; remove from fire for the moment as you- pour in as much popped corn as you think your amount of sugar will take. Put back on the very slow Are and stir briskly until sugar is all taken up and dried and each particle of corn Is again separ ate. Sugared popcorn should not be sticky when made properly. To sugar flowers, boil white sugar until fine threads will form If a little is raised on the end of a fork; put in the flowers and put the mixture Into tiny oiled dishes to cool. Turn out and serve. The Last Warrior. Beside a river of the West, 8hut In. by snowy mountain's crest. An aged Indian warrior stood Last of & vanished brotherhood And gazed with radiant eyes aglow Acroea the distant spires of anow. And dreamed of nght in dusky glade. Where .last stand 'gainst .fate wur made. And brooded o'er tha , wrongs hla .race Had suffered from the smooth paleface. Within his velna the blood of bate Ran swifter than tha tides of fate, And his forbears in days of yore In alnsle-handed combat tore Tba reeking; scalp from paleface head And flaunted - It above the dead. Once all the land he gazed upon: The mountains where the deer anon Grew fat and sleek, were all his own, Where care and want were never known; Where pappoose laugh, when twilight fell, Waa beard from every bosky' dell, And campflrei. In whose radiant slow. Grew pictures of the ions aro, When life was fair and earth was young And sword of Damocles ne'er hung By tenuous hair o'er Indian's head, A specter of the night to dread. While gazing o'er the landscape wide - A thousand warriors seemed to slide Across his view, and tepees stood.: Homes of that savage brotherhood. A smile lit up his ruK-ged face: - In fancy he could see his race Sweep from their land -each paleface foe. And hear their piteous cries of woe. But, casting; down his eyes' again, He heard the bitter cry of pain. And knew that. all hls'hopes and'fears Had vanished with the passing- years. - Troon the hilts where once the 'deer Had gamboled in tha moonlight clear The white man's schoolhouse boldly stood. The white man's ax had swept the wood From off the land; the white- man's plow " Had pierced the soil; the white man's vow Had been 'fulfilled and all his race Had passed away, dissolved In soace. Where once had burned the council Are Uplifted now the tall church spire. And where the dusky maidens Sana The cow bells of the white man ran-f Along- the Indian's lonely trail Kan now the white man's steel and rail. And where a thousand- tepees stood Naught could' he see and call it good. With aching- - heart he turned away. Too sad of soul to try to.-ara--- To Sah-Ie -Tye of the plain. ' " -. For to his clansmen ne'er again Would come the happy days of yore The Indian's race of -Ufa was o'er. ' Then on a last walling cry was heard As comes from some low-nesting bird When hawk sweeps down from heights serene And clutches It with talons keen. He turned hla copper-colored face. Drew one long sigh, gave up the race. And hastening from the place he stood. Plunged wildly, in tbe raging flood. The purling waves closed o'er the brave. In stream ha loved ha found his grave. B. A. CHJLDERS. The Fall Coiffure and Its Accessories THE new Autumn coiffures afford to .every woman the opportunity to make herself attractive If she will. The word "coiffures" Is used advisedly. for Fashion no longer demands that worn en of all types and degrees of loveliness and even those of no apparent loveliness at. all shall slavishly follow one mode, whether it is becoming; or not. That sort of "fashlonableness" was so flagrantly overdone in the case of the exaggerated pompadour that nowadays the really modish woman is distinguished less by her close adherence to the fashion of the moment than by her ingenious adaptation of it to her own individual requirements. In only one essential detail is Madame la Mode at all arbitrary, and that Is in the matter of waving the hair. It is not good form to be so palpably Marceled as to suggest Involuntary thoughts of the curling iron to every beholder; but one simply must display a wealth of softly waving locks this season, or submit to be considered hopelessly out of date. All the new millinery seems to have been mod eled for youthful faces and luxuriant tresses, and the outlook would be distinct ly dreary for the woman who cannot lay claim to either asset were It not possible to assume a virtue even though one have it not. Fortunately, however, a becoming ar rangement of the hair will go a long way toward Investing the face with youthful ness and charm. If not with 'actual beauty. The moderately high coiffure will pre vail during the coming Winter with out door toilettes, while the fashion of wear ing the hair low on the neck will be pop-, ular for evening and Indoor dress among the younger women. -. The low coiffure, though charming, is not at any season of the year adapted for the street ; but with the Winter costume it is simply unthinkable. In fact, no matter how well the hair Is cared for, constant contact with it will Inevitably result in a greasy looking spot on the collar of gown or coat, while a fur collar or boa will quickly assume a mangy ap pearance; that Is, to say the least, un lovely. Moreover, It is virtually impos sible to keep the modern hat securely In place when the hair is dressed low, while there Is invariably a hiatus between the hat trimmings and the coll of hair that Is not only inartistic, but distressingly un tidy. In the high coiffure the hair is waved softly and gathered into a loose coll on the crown of the head, the front arrange ment being managed with a view to forming a becoming frame for the face. A youthful effect Is produced by the sim ple addition of a smart ribbon bow, placed a little on one side. Just where the coll and the front hair meet. Large tortoise shell pins are used for fastening the coil, and the loose locks are secured with In visible wire pins. False curls are no longer worn by women of taste. Occasionally a Jeweled barette is used for keeping in place the stray nape locks. Side combs are quite out of date, but one really handsome high comb of Span ish or Empire design Is often worn at the back, partly as a support and partly as a finish to the coll. Without some such addition, the - high coiffure looks rather Incomplete, and Is apt to slip out of place. When worn with a low chlffure the comb Is placed Immediately above the coll or braid. Usually, however, the comb Is omitted when the hair Is dressed low. With the latter style of hair dressing the front hair may either be parted Madonna wise or on the side, after the fashion of L'Aiglon, or it may be waved back loose ly from the face without parting. Among the new hair ornaments are so many dainty and artistic devices that the woman with a weakness for looking her best will find it hard to resist them. Ex ceptionally pretty for evening wear are the glittering moths and dragon flies of spangled gauze, one of which apparently poised- lightly on the halrt but in reality fastened invisibly with a shell hairpin imparts a charming piquancy to the sim plest toilette. Then there are coquettish little bows of Louis Seize design, made of wired- gauze or ribbon and sparkling with tiny iridescent sequins; and these almost any dexterous needlewoman might dupli cate for herself at small cost. The favorite colors in these dainty tri fles are the various shades of rose, helio trope and mauve; but the same ornaments-are charmingly duplicated in black, with glittering sequins of Jet These lat-, tor may -. appropriately be worn with mourning toilettes. though they are adapted to any occasion. A novel Jet or nament for a -high coiffure consists of a narrow coronet with a Mercury wing on either side. On a golden-haired beauty of statuesque proportions and perfect pro file this unique ornament would be sim ply stunning. One involuntarily recalls the words of the old song, "She Wore a Wreath of Roses," when one glances at the ex-i qulsite flower wreaths included" among the late Importations from Paris. These are not always made of roses, however, being quite as often composed of a seinlr coronet of maidenhair fern, with a sin gle orchid in the center. Some pretty wreaths display clusters of tiny "button" roses, made of sarin ribbon and comhln'ed with sprays of artificial fern. Wreaths of heather and forget-me-not are entranc Ingly pretty, and bid fair to becomo ex tremely popular; but It should be borne in mind that these floral chapiets can- bo appropriately worn only by- 'debutantes and the younger women. .i I)a Faith, of Aunta Rosa, T. A. Daly, in the Cathollo Standard ani Times. ' Tou know my Aunta RosaT Not I weesha dat you could; She Wat you call "da leevln" saint, " , Baycause she ees so good; She got so greats, strongs faith. She don'ta nevva care For floin anytheeng at all - But Juata say her prayer. She Justa - pray, an' pray, an' pray. An work so hard at. dat. . Tou theenk aha would get gattln' thae Eenstead for gat so fat. O! my. she gat so vera fat, - Da doctor ha eea scare', . An com' one day to her an say: " "You male' too moocha prayer; Ees better do lorn' udder work An tak' som exercise." My -Aunta Rosa ehak' her head An' Justa leeft her eyes, ' An' say: "I gotta faith eo strong i Dat I weell Jus baygeen For pray .dat I may loose, da fat, An' soon I weell be fheen." So, den, she Justa seat an' pray, ' ', - So greata faith she feel. An' nevva stop for anytheeng . .-. Excep' for taka meal. An' some' .time, too, she seet an, mtd. Da noise so loud an deep. Eet sounds vera mooch as f She prayln' een her.slea-j. So Aunta Rosa pray an pray, . But steel she gat mora fat, ... . 'So fat she no can walk at alle le 0, what you theenka dat? Mus ba som troubla een da sky, Mus' be ees som'theeng- wrong! Baycause eef Aunta Rosa got Da faith so great an' strpng, An' pray so hard dat eat eea all She gatla time to do. X like som'body tal me why Her prayer sea no com' true I i