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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 2, 1906)
THIS SUNDAY OJIEGOXIAN, rORTLAKD, SEPTEMBER 2, 1906. 45 IRESSY THINGS FOR SMALLER TOTS. modish, a certain picturesque severity distinguishing: the former, which Is often drawn to the left in a-lobse puff and; tied there in a butterfly bow. Parted locks may 'be tied on each side with bows, and if the hair is straight there is a square cropping- of the back, which-falls no farther than the nape of frock of white batiste, is 'hand-embroidered all over with the handle bas kets of the Louis periods. Narrow Va lenciennes lace and embroidered bands are other details of this charming dress. Allover Hamburg embroidery is used for the second frock, a deep flounce. BY MART DBAS. THERE are no costumes for children more suggestive of Infantile charm than those made of white lingerie materials. These dainty washable toil ettes show many exquisite details, and in the well-heated American houses they are often carried over all Winter for house wear. Undersltps of tinted or white flannel, or maybe of silk, make them possible for the-coldest days, and there is an elegance about them that nonwash able stuffs, however rich, never could achieve. So' dmired are these costumes, in fact, that of late seasons it has been the thing to make up many lightweight Winter tex tiles on lingerie lines. Wash embroideries and laces are employed with thin lawn for the samps of low frocks, this white, fresh noie giving a most pleasing touch. And with-handrun tucks, puffings, shir rings and- all the ornamental stitchery used on. th.. wash things, the more win try textiles still present a look of baby sweetness. . . The white, lingerie styles are usually for girls between the baby age and seven, and French challles, delaine, wash silk, merino, cashmere and French flannel are durable and rewarding materials. Many little wash ginghims are also used, in brighter plaids thin those for Summer wear, and among these the Scotch sorts and those with a sllc warp are especially adaptable to handsome and durable re sults. For smart afternooi wear the most summery Swisses and fine linens over silk are largely employed, Swiss needlework or lace, with garnishing! of gay ribbon, constituting the trimming pf these. Such gay little gowns are indispensable for smart children: the afterncon child party, at which there is dancing games or a birthday spread requires lestive attire. Even small boys need to be begayed for the occasion, and so their sailor and Russian suits are of handsome white wash linen and white and tinted cloths of great richness. The models for the tinier miids, those between two and four, are very simple. A little Mother Hubbard slip, made dressy with a smart yoke and sh rt tucks or insets above a 'Wid ..hem ' is the one or Insets above a wide" hem Is the one material,-may be only elbow length, or those for a hardy. child may even be in the shortest puff, ; which style goes ad mirably with the dimpled bare legs that emrge from the short socks worn with strap slippers or haelless kid boots. The throat of many a little frock may likewise be cut square or round, but un less the child is tempered to such expos ing raiment it is best to have a high-long-sleeved gamp to wear with the dress. Bare legs do not seem to matter, but only the hardiest children can stand exposure of the throat once Winter winds have begun. , A one-piece frock wtth a long or short- waisted bodice is the model used after four years,- the sleeves of these wrist or, elbow length, and the skirt . cut short enough to show the ball of the knee. The French styles for the smallest girls are always piquantly short in the sklrf, and this fashion, together with the huge shirred hats and big bonnets worn, gives a delightful doll-baby look. ' A Paris journal writes: "All the smart children, especially the baby ones, ; are dressed en poupee after the manner of dolls. An exaggerated ' childishness per vades their little toilets; and when they are seen- in the Champs Elyseee, seated solemnly before the Guignol Punch and Judy shows, they are adorably like their waxen presentments." Further down a word is said as to the adoption , of lingerie styles "after the mode Americalne" for house use: for. singular as It may seem, America, gives many ideas as to children's clothes to the city of line dress. But to- return to Winter house things. The accomplishment of a bodice Is often made by shirring in a loose slip, at the waist line chosen. This effect is charm ing for tho short Empire body line, which goes most prettily with sleeves in short shoulder puffs. From the neck bf the body, which has a square, round or point ed yoke, hang many handsome bertha effects, some of which are merely half circles put on in two pieces. A gamp dress is prettiest for any smart material, such as silk, challie, French merino, etc. A narrow satin rib- rSDOOR RAIMENT BC1LT OX LINGERIE LINES. bon In a matching or contrasting shade also trim these prettily, this put on-the skirt In narrow rows above a wide hem and trimming the bertha, belt and sleeve edges. Shlrrlngs, puffs and -tucks .are trimmings for silk and delicate wools, but wash textiles must be confined, to pleats, tucks and flounces. '.''.- The colored gingham frocks - have . for the most part white yokes, cuffs and belts of wash embroidery. ; and there may even be some little trimming or other of this upon the skirt. As to this detail, there are no, gored skirts amongthe lingerie styles. Jupes fall with an un gored fullness, for straight breadths are mainly used, the shaping being made by lessening the gathers at .the front. Some of the long body frocks ' have the bodice laid in heavy side pleats, turning from a double box one at the front; or the bodice may be trimmed down with tucks and embroidery, or with rows of needlework between' stitching. Smocking accomplishes a very smart and distinctive look with wash momie cloth, challie and thin silk, and not in frequently with white momie a red thread will be used for the honeycomb ing. A row or more of the red stitchery, done in some appropriate pattern, trims the skirt or such neat frocks. For girls of 7 or more a costume In a smart texture, such as silk or voile, will often be knife-pleated all over. Knife pleated frills, edged again with lace, trim the -skirts , of; these and often shape a bolero effect on the' bodice, this. In turn being overlaid with handsome revers of lace or embroidery. ... - The cashmere and other delicate lairies which, have border trimmings: of English eyelet are most valuable finds, for here the trimming is assured-without thought. Generally there is a wide and narrow bor der, the first sort being used, for'-the bo lero and the last for the skirt: though not uncommonly' there is a bertha fall of the deep embroidery on the bodice. This deep cape-like fall is especially the. -privilege of the smaller girls, , the frill produc ing the effect of a deep cape. Charming suspender styles are seen for girls of suitable age, for girls must be quite 7 before they can adopt such mod els. These are seen 1n wash materials," in soft wools and silk, with often the suspender part accomplishing quite the look of a skeleton body. A white gamp of wool, silk or lawn is worn underneath,' and generally the frock has its own belt, which may be trimmed with the braid, embroidery or ribbon elsewhere used. The' styles in house aprons are num berless, and they are made in every ma terial, from heavy linen to dotted Swiss. The last styles are of a very ornamental nature,, of course, and with pretty lace edges and knots of baby ribbon, such an elegant little apron may even smartly top a silk gown. Wide Peter Pan collars are also fast replacing the sailor cuts, and odd ones of fine linen and lawn dis play often the most beautiful embroider ies. Deep mate-hlng cuffs go with some, and so universal are such eetsrthat small boys may wear them as well as girls. In footwear elegant house styles are influenced by French fashions, which exploit adorable little, strap slippers, black patent leather boots, with white kid uppers and many styles in tinted kid. -For girls too old to wear socks there are also stockings woven with a sock portion, this last part showing all the standard colors and black, with white uppers. But all white is consid ered generally' the most; elegant stock ing, and for very smart costumes the silk or lisle ones may be handsomely openworked. With all this dessertation on indoor wear, a word anent the house coiffure is not amiss. Children's hairdressing styles are very defined, and with locks as fresh and feathery as soap and water can make them heads must show their full complement-'of ribbon deck ings. Straight hair and curls are both the "neck. Hair that curls naturally may bo parted at one side and worn without ribbon, but generally the bob bing butterfly bow is in evidence, with white taffetas favorite over ribbons of color. The small boy's hair Is cropped across the forehead after the manner of the old-time bang, the hair here be ing much longer than is worn at the sides and back. The pictures represent gown and suit styles for both sexes. A dress for a girl of 8 is of dull blue rajah, with a pointed yoke of he same In opun embroidery. A sash of the knotted silk girdles this smart long bodiced . dress at the side, and the sleeves are .short-elbow affairs in tine kilting; and embroidery. Dull red cashmere with a yoke of white silk, braided and embroidered in red, accomplishes another smart gown for the same age.' The very short skirt of this 'is in scallops - above the frill fall, a. band : of braid and embroidery outlining the scallops. An Empire bodice is simulated by the shirring of the bodice, this then-edge with a double fril). The long sleeves are shirred at the forearm and in puffs above. The younger, maids wear lingerie toilettes of rare loveliness. One. a point edged, forming- the skirt. A square yoke and very short sleeves are features of the blouslng bodice. Two dresses for girls from 3 to 5 are built on Mother Hubbard lines. One of pale blue liberty, cut square at the neck and worn with a gamp of shirred net, has a 8U3pender arrangement in' puffs. The other little dress Is of red and white challie, a red ribbon quilling, forming braces over the square lace yoke. . Still - another smart little frock has fine stitchery and narrow black ribbon for ornament. This is of India silk in a dim rose, the model comprising an in finitesimal skirt, with a long-waisted, short-sleeved and square-necked bod ice. ';. The two boys' suits are of heavy linen and cloth. Both are in rich shades of cream white, and with tiie cloth one is worn a sash of scarlet wool, fringed at the ends. Apropos of fringe, a last word. Some of the French sashes for girls also come fringed at the ends. Others are. sometimes treated to delicate little trimmings, such as several rows of bias frills about a round finish. Or there may be a ruchlng of baby lace put on a round or bias end. But such elegan cies, of course, are - for the smartest get-up. Genuine Courtesy Rare Among Women HY do I admire her so much?" repeated the man who had jast spoken of a very plain woman, with o style at all. as a "queen of women." . "Because in all the 20 years I've know her I've never seen her fail to be ex quisitely courteous to other women. You don't see anything remarkable in that, ch? Thought every lady, every real lady, wag always courteous? My 'dear fellow, you don't know 'em. Study their tricks and manners for 40 years as I have done and then you'll agree with me. "Of course, women are polite in many superficial ways; they must be or there couldn't be any social intercourse. Real courtesy goes deeper -than the veneer of politeness. It comes right from the heart, while most politeness is only skin deep. Some o the meanest' little tricks I ever saw women do were really under the disguise of politeness. Did you ever notice how embarrassed a woman gets when another woman calls her attention to the fact that there is something wrong about her costume, a button un fastened, or a string showing, or the back of her skirt open? Woman num ber one will say to woman number two, Oh, my dear, your skirt needs fasten ing: do let me help you!' Now she fan cies that her dulcet tones and officious manner are making a great Impression on the men around, but 'not for mine!' I always want to say 'Me-o-o-u-ow! when I see such catty kindness. For if woman number one really wanted to do the decent thing she'd speak in the most unobtrusive way to the other wom an and let her make her own repairs. True courtesy never plays to the gallery or tries to get into the limelight. "This woman you were so surprised to hear me call a queen of women always goes about her kindnesses In the quiet est sort of way. One of the most gra cious things I ever saw her do happened in her own house one afternoon. "A woman who- really was her dearest enemy came in and Joined the circle around the tea table. She took a chair that faced a most trying light. I no-' ticed at once that she looked every min ute of her age, for the lisrht left no chance for illusions. She takes precious mod care to achieve such illusions, too, and succeeds so well that though I've known her some time I was shocked to see how old she really looked. "Now, the hostess had every reason to be glad to show her up in . an unfavor able light, for there was an ancient feud between them in which the hostess had been unfairly treated. If she had been polite in merely the ordinary way she would have said, 'Oh, Mrs. Dash, that light is so trying! Do take this other eat!' thereby focusing. the attention of fie circle on the revelations the light as making. Instead, she exclaimed, 'Ch, Mrsi Dash. I do want you to see mj- new water color over the piano. Won't you sit here so that you can get a letter light on it?" "By this move the guest took her seat in the shadow of a rose-colored curtain and immediately looked 15 years younger. I tell you I almost lovej the plain little -hostess for. the grac:ousness of this maneuver and I know at least two other men in the circle who felt as I did. That's only o.ne fostah.ee of her exquisite tact. I could tell you of lots of others. Do you wonder that this - woman has scores of loyal, admiring friends? Talk about "man's inhumanity to man' mak ing the - angels weep; woman's cour tesy to woman must make them sing whenever hey get a chance to see it." The man was unfortunately only too truthful In Sis observations. So many women fall xo'Iive up to the best they are capable of in their relations to other women. They will show jealousy and spite faintly covered up by little politenesses and think that because they kept the form of the social re quirements they have been beyond re proach. How few girls there are who gener ously share their men friends with other girls! Many of them think, if they don't say it: "Oh, I wouldn't have George meet Ethel and really come to know her well for anything. It would be all over with my chances!" This is a very short-sighted policy,; she may not have serious designs upon George, but if she had she only knows by this ungenerous attitude a Quality of char acter that will do her -more harm than good In the opinion of the said George.' Moreover, though she never realizes this, it shows a lamentable lack of confidence in her own attractions.. And confidence, whether in the jsld of bat tle or of love, 'is the first requisite for success. ' - ' - Nine out of ten women ' will smile sweetly on the man whom' they' crowd past in the narrow aisle of a car and seem genuinely " sorry for the annoy ance they are giving. But there are not such sweet "Beg pardons" when they are "crowding each other. Instead, there are. scornful glares and muttered remarks, far from complimentary. When a woman thinks that these little discourtesies are not noticed by any except their unfortunate victims, they are as much mistaken as the ostrich is who is sure he is invisible when his head is in the sand. Men do notice these things and they count a whole lot against a girl. Sometimes to be truly courteous in stead of pleasantly polite takes a deal of courage, moral courage. It is so easy to say the thing one knows is ex pected rather than the thing that will ultimately be the kindest. Suppose a woman asks a friend to tell her whether a certain color is becoming to her and says: "How do you like this new frock? It cost a lot of money. I do hope it's becoming!" How much easier it is for the. friend to reply sweetly, "Why, yes. you look lovely; the gown is charming!" than to say, "If I were you I should never wear that color." It takes courage to speak the truth Under such circumstances, but -true courtesy will shrink from hypocrisy. ' As for the meanness which leads one girl to tell- another that she looks "awfully stunning in yellow, sueff an artistic color you know," when really the misguided creature looks as if she were in the throes of jaundice, this cannot even pose as a polite fib it deserves to be called by its real name, an u-Uustifiable lie. In a Pullman car the other day a wom an who looked as if she ought to' know better 'deliberately planted her feet on top of a handsome traveling bag belonging to a young girl in the next chair. The sup ply of footstools had given out, most of the occupants of the car being women, and she wanted 'one: the bag was square and of convenient height: therefore she coolly appropriated it and made a foot stool of it. Naturally the young girl was indignant when she discovered what was being done to her bag. But even In her wrath she was more courteous, than the woman, who merely pushed, the bag to ward its owner without a word of apology. , At a house party recently a young wom an was urged to play the piano: the re quest was started by one of her friends and of course the other guests politely joined in and begged , her to play. The hostess, however, not only remained si lent, but skillfully turned the subject by a counter diversion. A guest who knew her well enough to take her to task asked her afterward why she had been so rude. "My dear, I may have seemed rude, but I was really kind." was the answer. "The girl plays atrociously. Everybody else in the room except the girl and her friends was, musical, so thoroughly musical that her playing' would have made her seem like a fool. The kindest thing I could do for everybody was to keep her away from the piano." According to the definition of courtesy in one of our best dictionaries which says "Courtesy, especial politeness springing from a kindly feeling," this woman was most truly courteous. Cucumbers and Tomatoes. Pare and cut some nice cucumbers in half-Inch crosswise slices. Slice equal amounts of firm tomatoes and medium-sized white onions. Flour and fry together the cucumbers and onions, using a little Bait pork or butter. When brown lay in the- tomatoes, add -one tablespoonful of flour rubbed to a paste with a little extra fat. Stir in a half pint of water or weak stock- If on hand; when smoothly thickened, add a teaspoonful of salt, pepper to taste and simmer, covered for one hour. Just . before serving add one tablespoonful of walnut catsup. A Bite for Guest Who Gomes Unexpectedly Little Corn Puddings. Score the raw corn and with a dull knife scrape all pulp from the ears. To one pint of this pulp add three tablespoonfuls of flour, one pint of milk, four eggs, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, one teaspoonful of salt and one-third of a teaspoonful of pep per. ' Scoop the centers from firm to matoes, sprinkle with salt and let them drain for. an hour. Fill with the mix ture, stand in a flat buttered pan and bake in a quick oven until firm in the center; this will take about half an hour. THE HOUSEKEEPER who may have unlooked-for calls upon her hospi tality should keep certain helpful and suggestive articles always in the larder. Meats, - for instance, may be lacking for the sudden demand, but such supplies as canned shrimps, sardines, salmon and pimentos, pate de foi gras, olives, nuts, canned pineapples are materials to con jure with. ' If in addition there are fresh peppers, mint and parsley and eggs always eggs almost any result may be' achieved. The Spanish pepper, the pimento, ex cellent for flavoring and garnish, and capable for use in many ways, becomes when stuffed with well-boiled rice, not only good, but beautiful. The omelette, too, may cease to be mere omelette and gain infinite variety. It may be placed in a bed of broiled mushrooms and tomatoes or with gen erous use of chopped mint from the garden turned from yellow into green. A can of pate de fole gras may further alter It, or grated parmesan cheese. - Sardines The commonplace can of sardines may be made ' delightful by broiling. Drop the . sardines into hot butter until they are well- browned, then lift out onto prepared strips of toast and, in the butter from which they have been taken, make a sauce as follows: Lemon, a sifting of paprika and a bit of mustard should be rubbed Into a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce and last, a few chopped olives stirred into the whole. Pour over each sardine its portion of sauce. Simple Dessert Bananas in a perfect state of ripeness are skinned and scraped free from the loose stringy layer. Make a syrup from a cupful of hot water and a half cup of sugar, season with a lit tle orange and lemon juice mixed. Put the bananas in a porcelain-lined dish and pour over them the syrup. Bake in a fairly hot oven about 25 minutes, turning the fruit over and basting frequently with the syrup. The banana is done when it has a clean, transparent look. Remove the fruit from the syrup and let the latter cook down to a jelly. Pour over the bananas, serv ing the whole chilled, but not frozen. What to Do With the Canned Pine-, apples To a can of shredded pineapple add the Juice of two oranges and two lemons and a small Jar of maraschino cherries, and sugar as may be needed. This may -be varied by tho addition of other fruits, grapes or bananas. Chill and serve this In punch cups. Some Luncheon Suggestions Soups: A simple Fall or Spring soup may be made from sorrel or spinach. Thoroughly wash and drain one peck of spinach or the sorrel, and put into a kettle. Add a teaspoonful of salt and cover with a pint -of boiling water. Boil hard 10 minutes without covering the kettle. Take from the kettle and chop very fine, then press through a sieve. Scald one quart of rich milk, rub together one table spoonful of butter and two of flour until smooth. Add to the scalded milk the flour and butter and stir constantly until it thickens. Add this to the sorrel, stirring all the while. Press it again through the sieve, that the soup may be perfectly smooth, returning it to the boiler to reheat. Season with one drop of onion extract and salt and pepper to taste. If the soup is not the desired shade of green, deepen with green color paste. Two ways of treating eggs Eggs - a l'ltalienne: Boil a few bits of garlic for ten minutes; take them from the. water, mash them with two tablespoonfuls of caper, two anchovies, salt and pepper, adding a little vinegar and oil to make the sauce. Put this sauce into a flat dish and lay in it the hard-boiled eggs cut In quarters lengthwise. Creamed eggs Hard-boil four eggs, chop the white and cook in a cream sauce made with one large cup of milk in which a white onion has been boiled. Take out the onion when soft and thicken with a roux made of a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour. Add a seasoning of salt and pepper and heat the whites of the eggs in this. When hot, pour over very thin pieces of toast, grate the yolks on top of all. and add a large spoonful of finely chopped parsley. Sandwiched A thin, tasty little sand wich is always easy to make out of something to be found in the Icebox, and for the emergency meal It is a good filler-ln. There is everything, however, in the way it is made and served. A ragged sandwich or a thick, humpy one is never palatable. Tomato sandwiches are made by dipping slices of tomato into French dressing of oil, vinegar, salt, pep per and mustard. Let the slices drain and put them between thin slices of brown-bread, thinly buttered: cut in half, and lay on a platter of crisp lettuce 1 , :1 V" a Pnnlimhlrl n u tin In U same way as filling for sandwiches. . . To utilize potatoes Potato nests are a mi vi v. i 1 1 wiui annual nil Y 1 1 1 1 V . HIM) they are not difficult to prepare, as there are always potatoes In the, house. Wasp thoroughly and then bake In an oven some carefully selected potatoes of equal size, and when tender cut a slice off the top ot cavil unc mill reniuve him inxirif.. r-nr Tim potato through a fine sieve and mix IL. with an ounce of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and a tablespoonful of cream. Put the whole in a pan and stir it over the fire. When it has become hot. stir in the beaten whites of one or two eggs and fill the potato skins with this mix---ture. Put a little butter on the ton of each, and serve on a dish on a folded, napkin. Stewed potatoes-are easy to prepare witli butter, a little onion, some milk and cream, salt and pepper, and when served with cold sliced meat and something green, perhaps, they make the main course of a luncheon for the unexpected guest. Sweet potatoes, if they happen to be In.' tnA lim.aA . . P . . 1 oil I I . ' quarter or an inch thick and fried in white fat, so that they cook without eilh- -er coloring or getting hard, and then let drain for a few minutes, they are a pal atable addition to almost any meal. Teachers for Children's Gardens. New York Herald. A course which is designed to fit teach ers to conduct children's gardens is pre sented in the Summer school of the Nef York University. There are several gar dens laid out for the use of pupils In and around New York City, but the authori ties are at a loss to find men or women trained to conduct them. The phenom-. enal growth and success of this work In Philadelphia has led to an extension of school gardening In many cities. Cucumbers, Brown Sauce. Pare and slice lengthwise some firm cucumbers. Salt and pepper each piece, flour well and fry quickly in a little. putter, to tne rat remaining in the pan add one tablespoonful of flour, stir " v - . " - " - - . . . . ... , I..I-. IVI 1 vUUilll III water or stock and stir until smoothly thickened. Season to taste and pour round the cucumbers. Young squash may becooked the same way.