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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 17, 1906)
mMW ' IliiiiillC jililiitf .AMI? 7f Mpl fi KVKR overload little ones with too many clothes in Summer," say doctors. "Keep them' coo!. The shops offer every .maunex of flimsy fabric for making up. the little garments with which to keep the children cool, and all manner of ready-made garments are Khown in the same shops, all the way from a complete layette, varyina; in price from a trille over iM o something over a thousand each, to clothing worn by girls and hoys until they cast aside childish things forever. Clothing is so cheap that It hardly pays to make tip the little frocks and underwear for the babies unless one really has the time. When time is no consideration It more than pays to make the things at home. Better materials ran ' be had for the same amount of money and often for lews insuring bet ter wear and better looks. Then, too, the garments made at home are fitted to the child and have the charm of per fect fit often, but not always, secured In ready-made clothing. The babies will want a number of sim ple nainsook and dimity slips for morn ing wear, with just a bit of fine needle work around the neck and sleeves and a hand-made hem. In the afternoon finer grades of the same materials with sheer linen lawns make tin charming infants' Th e lvionev rroDiems or tne No. 3 W ise K.-tpenditure for Summer Clodies; Fabrics for Hot Weather NO ONE is as insistently confronted by tho problem of how to dress well upon next to nothing a year as is the woman who goes out to business. "Whether she be old or young, it becomes nece.ssary for her to dress -becomingly, suitably and inexpensively. She has no time to sew and furbish up things for herself save such time as she may steal from needed hours of rest and relaxa tion. In the ease of an elderly woman the matter is simplified. She may dress in conspicuously in black and seldom get a new gown and little notice will be paid to her if lier gown Is well made and neat. The young woman, however, must dress well or she will be talked about dispar agingly by other girls and, perhaps, by young men whom she seeks to please by Iter dress. She wants to enjoy the pleas ures of social life and she likes to look well snd feels unhappy If she can not do so. She hasn't time to search from shop to shop for those things which her lim ited income may buy, yet she must have them. One of the most sensible dresses that a.l "business woman can get in Summer is a dark blue lawn or muslin of some kind. They appear with various sizes of dots and figures and vary In price from 5 cents to 12 cents a yard. They are cool, inconspicuous, do not get soiled and are Invariably neat and becoming. A girl who paid To cents for such a dress was admired wherever she went. Men and women thought her gown must have cost a good deal because it was so dainty and becoming. She trimmed the yoke with a little narrow lace Inserting, sewed rows of It around the bottom of her sleeve, al ternating with groups of small tucks, and trimmed the bottom of her skirt with more rows of inserting, put on in a wavy pattern above two narrow frills of the material, one of which edged the dress. ,The lace was bought in a bunch, the hunches selling from 25 to 35 cents each, and Just enough was used to lighten the dress without making it appear conspicu ous. A little lace around the top of the collar, aud a white and dark blue hat complete a costume which was always smart looking, because well made and be coming. Dark blue lawn; selected with discre tion, always looks much more expensive than it really is. This makes a good business shit for hot days, and the waist may be made a mere framework worn over a thin white shirtwaist, if one wants to look "dressed up." For cooler days and bad weather the business woman will find a suit of bril liantine. siclllienne, mohair, or alpaca all about the same thing under different names extremely useful. Alpaca usually has a smoother surface and it sheds dust and water with equal Impartiality. It Is a cheap, yet nice looking fabric, and makes up into charming pleated sRirts as well as the gored skirts with seams stitched on the outside a little way in from the edges. Circular skirts should be avoided by the business woman. They always sag and require the constant at tention of a dressmaker to keep them even around the bottom. Alpaca and its kindred fabrics do not mkj up well into all sorts of blouses. -Yl. W - HW 1K -VL: I'Wl - nfl y&s J v ;.. x- i, . f i il f ' Bf . , I M I " oest wear uic luiKb isiiuuiu ut- iidiniw uluu mvu t anu buhh-.iihh.-9 ' J 1 111 ? ' Jf v 11 11 I V J Simplicity is the keynote ( rt g M ,n W . : f , ,H V V V J SSfninh.pCh VSV i" -rTe.r vis.tin, ad afternoon wear the V j v 7k. V 1 I orate the style and arransemem of trim- "ttie ladles Iook very sweet In frocks 1IUV J ytft' ' ' W Q1B0HK: 9 I mmn i M nimnte that nw t not struck of white lawn, nainsook, cambric and Jir - -f , V. WWl dresses, trimmed with groups of tiny tucks ' and insertings of delicate wash able lace. Medallions of very fine swiss or batiste embroidery set in the fronts or down each side the fronts of infants' dresses add much to their beauty. They should be bordered with narrow insert ing or with fine feather-stitchinjr or herring-boning. Dresses made in this style and of these materials may be worn by a child of from three weeks to three years of age. Another and more general s.tyl-5 of dress for children varying In age from '-' to 12 years is the attached waist and skirt. It is made very long walsted, the belt of the dress coming to the hips In dresses for very little children, and at the waist line for older ones. This style of dress is very easily made. It requires tucks at the shoulders, both in tho back and front, or else a yoke. If the dres is The smart, cool Summer waist should be Just a low bottom of a waist, reach ing as far as the bust and cut In an ir regular shape at the top in the way most becoming to the wearer. It should be trimmed around the top and have side pieces, like wide and daintily shaped sus penders, trimmed to match the top of the dress, and with bits of trimmed pieces for sleeves hanging from the shoulder. This, attached to a trimmed belt, makes a cool and dainty waist to wear over a white shirtwaist. "With this dress should be a coat reaching to the waist and with coat sleeves reaching to the wrist. Both coat and bodice might be trimmed with stitched bias folds of the material and buttons to match it in color. The coat should button high up the front. Such coats can be smartly made and serve ad mirably in wet weather as a protection against rain as well as being Just the thing for. cool Summer days. If the cost of laundering shirtwaists is a consideration, a bodice of the dress ma terial may be made partly fitting, with short sieves and a square or round neck. It might be finished off with piped panels of the material In front, and trimmed with buttons there and on the sleeves. This would only require a bit of lace in the neck and bare arms or lace sleeve lets. These may be washed at home and patted out with the hands if one does not care to iron them. .A dress like this will be serviceable from early Spring till late in the Autumn and would do for a "Win ter house dress as well. Black is the best color for such a gown, since it may then be worn with various coats and waists, but next to black, dark blues, greens, grays and browns are pretty in these materials. Gray is not as good as the other colors named. A belt of leather, or of the dress mate rial, or of silk, may be worn with a sin gle frame buckle of brass or silver. These two costumes would serve a girl through all the warm months of the year for business, but she will need a dress to wear to the theater and to attend dances and dinners in, since recreation la an ab solute necessity to the woman who works. Foulard makes a most admirable theater and going-out gown. It is more dressy than pongee, never crushes, is suitable for many occasions, and wears admirably. It can be worn Summer and Winter and happens. Just now. to be in high favor. Very pretty satin foulards can be had for 60 cents a yard, and there are cheaper varieties. The material is wide and stands cleaning, and even washing. Have the skirt made simply, so that change of style will not affect its smart appearance, . and have the bodice made quite prettily, with lace In the neck and cuffs and perhaps a bit upon the bodice, although that is by no means necessary. It may have the neck and sleeve, bot toms so constructed that they may be taken out, and a simple edging of lace upon a short sleeve and slightly open neck will make the dress suitable for an informal dinner or evenings in a hotel at some resort. A foulard gown will cost about $6 for the material, and there are plenty of good dressmakers who sew for $2 a day and can make up such a gown in two days. Some can almost make it in one ."HE SUNDAY for best wear the tucks should be narrow and interspersed with lace or enibroldory inserting. Simplicity is the keynote of smart dressing in children and even where the workmanship upon a dress is very elab orate the style and arrangement of trim mings is so simple .that one is not struck by any effect of overdress and merely admires the dainty finish of the dress. 1 Many mothers make for children of from 6 to 13 years of age and sometimes for older girls, as well little shirtwa:sts which have dainty yokes and deep cuffs of lace, or lingeries or fine embroidery. The rest of the waist is perfectly plain and straight. Over these is slipped a little dress cut low In the neck and made with short sleeves. The dress may be of plain pique, linen, pongee, voile or even calico, but the dainty guimpe ami neatly finisihed white sleeves give a pretty touch to the dress and save it many a laundering, since a child always soils the neck and sleeves of a dress first. The little white guimpe may be worn with any sort of dress. Sometimes it has no trimming beyond a few tucks ana an edge of lace In the neck and cuffs. For morning and school wear little ginghams and linens are the nicest things possible. Pique is good, except for really hot days, and simple mus lins are excellent all Summer. It is smart to make a deep hem upon Ljirl in Dusmess That Give a Becoming Kffect. day and leave the finishing touches to the business woman to put in at night. Veilings and nets are popular for gowns of this kind, but they are not practical. Veiling soils quickly and requires expen sive cleaning, and It also crushes. Net crushes, tears and never wears well. For dances several kinds of gowns sug gest themselves. Very delicate organ dies make up charmingly for simple even ing wear, and may be worn over slips of the cheapest cambric, instead of silk, without betraying the difference. At tractive sashes or silk belts can be made of good silk or satin, dainty slippers and gloves may.be added, and the whole outfit come to a mere trifle. Organdies cost from 12 to 25 cents a yard for very pretty qualities. This is a price at which more expensive qualities may be purchased if one only takes the trouble to look over bargain sales. Gowns do not require as much material this season as they did last, and such an evening gown, with its trimmings of Valenciennes lace, will cost very little. The business woman who can afford a more elaborate evening gown than organ die will find figured lace net of good qual ity very useful, or one of the liberty sat ins, or voile or crepe de chine. The latter fabric is associated with afternoon and house gowns, so that it Is not easy to make up a really -smart-looking evening gown of crepe de chine. The other mate rials make up well, however, and clean and wear well. The net must be of good quality, and either white or cream color. It should be hung up, since net is apt to crush in folding, and great care must al ways be taken of a net gown in order to preserve its freshness. Liberty satin can actually be washed and ironed at home without showing any ill effects from such treatment, so that it makes a very durable gown where one wants something that will wear a long time, stand making over, and, eventually, dyeing. Pongees also recommend themselves to the business woman, because they may be made so prettily, and also so simply. They wash and wear well, and are cool and light. Pongees serve all sorts of purposes, according to the color of the gown and for other silk gowns and voiles pongee makes up into the most useful possible separate coats. The business woman who owns a smart afternoon gown of light wool, silk or crepe de chine is confronted by the prob lem of requiring shoes the color of her gown. This is an extravagance which few can afford. It is possible, however, to have spats made Of pieces of the dress, and these may be worn with black or white slippers and serve as dressy-looking footwear. As to stockings, lisle thread hose wear well and are cooler than any other sort. Nice qualities of lisle thread look about as well as silk, and in simple colors, worn inconspicuously, they will do for any gown. Neckwear is so important a considera tion with the business woman that she cannot pay too much attention to it. There are many tempting displays of neckwear, and the wise woman will se lect lace of a washable kind, for she knows that she can always launder lace, while embroidery requires more attention than she can give it. A narrow edge of white net. pleated or laid in a fold at the tops of stocks, OKEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, the little skirt and sometimes to fin ish the hem with fancy stitches, if the material is of a nice quality and the dress is white or light in color. Kor visiting and afternoon wear the little ladies look very sweet in frocks of white lawn, nainsook, cambric and soft, sheer linens. The skirts may be pleated, box-pleated or gathered to a narrow waistband of beading, through Which ribbon mayrbe run. If . desired. The bottom of the skirt is smart if embroidered by hand in some delicate trailing flower design ending in scal lops at the bottom. The scallops show beneath them a frill of lace. Another fetching method of trim ming little skirts is to form small panels around the bottom by Inserting lace in regular lines at the sides of the panels and with pointed or scalloped effects at the bottom. If a bit of em broidery is made in the middle of each panel so much the better. At the bot tom of the skirt a lace ruffle should finish the hem. Vf ry simple ways of trimming dressy skirts is to Insert rows of lace above a hem or ruffle, or else to make the entire skirt of a wide piece of embroidered flouncing. In this case the flounce around the shoulders of trhe yokes should be of the same flouncing, cut narrower, of course. It is still prettier If the flouncing is shaped so will keep them clean for some time, since the net may be replaced, and lace edges are saved in this manner.. It Is quite smart to wear narrow folds of net or chiffon above the edges of stocks. Narrow tabs and butterfly ends, as well as shaped tabs of lace, are all smart methods of finishing off lace stocks. It will be found necessary, also, to sew lit tle upright bones in them in order to keep them neat. , Stocks made of two kinds of lace a;e smart, and bits of left over lace may be utilized in this manner. If a dainty piece of neckwear is needed a boa may be made of knotted loops of ribbon sewed all over a wide strip of lined satin just long enough to pass around the neck. This kind of boa will wear better than any other sort, and will always look pretty. It may be made of cheap ribbon and furnish pleasant em ployment for an evening at home. The working woman's gloves are a con sideration. She will find black and white lisle thread or silk the best for Summer wear, but she will need to keep them forever mended and washed in order to have her hands look always neat and at tractive. Plain gloves are always in better taste than fancy ones. A woman's Winter garments should be of good material, and so she should con sider how she may save upon her Sum mer wardrobe, which need never be of expensive materials In order to look well. By, selecting materials with judgment, a business woman may procure a number of thin Summer dresses. But cleaning should be considered before any are made up, since upon their freshness depends their beauty. "The Xantucket Sleighride." New England Magazine. For the young American of means, who has sporting blood in his veins and longs to try a new and novel form of hunting, there is a great chance now to engage in one of the oldest forms of big game hunt ing known, and in a field which has not been fittingly exploited by .the amateur. To the man who has exhausted even the delight of the 60-mile-an-hour automo bile, there is an unlimited field. The chances are if he once gets an opportu nity to taste the unbridled and terrific pleasure of a "Nantucket sleigh ride," he will view his auto machine as a tame thing ever afterward. The Nantucket sleigh ride is so common an experience with whalers that they are prone to speak of it in disappointing, matter-of-fact language. Bui, for all that, there isn't an old whaler of them all whose nostrils will not dilate with zest when he thinks upon It, and the landsman who ever has had the rare fortune to experi ence one is not likely to find anything else in all the rest of his life that will not seem tame compared with It. Few landsmen ever have the opportunity. When a while-boat lowers to fight a 60 foot whale,, the business is too Important to encumber the craft with unskilled pas sengers. And not many landsmen would really care to go, even if they could, when they behold, wallowing in the sea, the huge thing that is to be attacked, , Remembered the Date. Chicago Tribune. Striking Coincidence Mr. Gotsum Maria, how long has that young Smooth ley been coming here to see Nellie? Mrs. Gotsum Let me see. Tou remem ber when the papers published that story about your having sold a gold mine for half a million? Yes? Well, as nearly as I recall it, that's the time when he be gan coming. sort, sheer linens. l nc sKtrts may oe lilts .r ; N. . - ' sr "S i llll 1 JUNE 17, 1906. as to bo' quite deep In front and back and narrower over the top of tho sleeves and around the shoulder. Square drapery, like little boleros, may also be fashioned out of this wide flounc ing around the blouse -of a child's dress. In any case It is always pretty to have lace in the neck. When the H oneymoon IT IS never agreeable, and it is often painful, to be brought suddenly down from the seventh heaven of ecs tatic bliss to the sordid level of this prosaic old earth. Thus the return from a wedding journey sometimes marks the beginning of a tragedy whose climax is the annihilation of love. In any event it draws the dividing line between poetry and prose. But alas for the newly mated husband and wife who lay aside their rose-colored glasses for good and all when they come face to face with the stern reali ties! The honeymoon trip may be nec essarily brief, but the honeymoon should end only with life Itself. It is not until the "ice cream and cake and kisses" part of the matri monial programme is over that tne newly married pair begin to see each other through, clear, unprejudiced eyes. For the furtherance of his nefarious schemes Cupid throws a strange glamor over his victims when first he ensnares them. But once they are married he turns his attention to fresher game and concerns himself with them no further. So sooner or later the spell of his enchantment Is broken. It is when the inevitable moment of awakening comes that the measure of the awakened is taken for all time. If love be strong enough to stand the sharp test of disillusion and still re main steadfast, and true, there is little to fear Tor the future. The world was, on the whole, a hap pier world before it acquired the wed ding trip habit; when the young people went straight from the altar to the peaceful seclusion of their own roof tree and began their married life In the genial atmosphere of borne and the sweet spirit of mutual helpfulness. There were not so many frills about getting married in those times, either. Nowadays much of the sacred signifi cance' of marriage is lost in the fuss and worry of preparation. A vast amount of money and vital energy are frittered away in meaningless display, and the newly wedded pair are hustled oft immediately after the ceremony to begin their life together amid unfa miliar scenes, and with nervous sys tems quivering on the brink of abso lute wreck. ' Wrhen they finally return to take up the routine of ordinary life fortunate if they have not meanwhile bored each other almost to extinction it is gen erally to find themselves marooned on a desert island of brand new f urnitUTe and hopelessly useless wedding pres ents. There is not a redeeming taint of faultlness anywhere to relieve the deadly monotony of glossy veneer and silken upholstery. During their brief absence the bride's over-anxious mamma has thoughtfully, if also unwisely, provided for all pos sible and impossible contingencies in the way of housekeeping. The house or flat is as clean and fresh and dainty as expert bands and loving thought could make it. Indeed., its glaring fault Is that it is too fresh and clean and dainty. Moreover, its air of absolute newness scw&2v?v'r A simple and "easy way In which to make a dress for a child of almost any age is to-run two or three rows of Valenciennes inserting around the lower part of a lawn skirt above a deep hem. Run similar, rows around a plain blouse and make a flounce of this sort for the shoulders. Gather the top and completeness is distinctly irritat ing, for it makes It perfectly manifest to the owners that there Is nothing whatever in It for them to do. All of which is essentially and griev ously wrong, for idleness is inevitably a breeder of discontent. A siege of housecleanlng and "getting to rights," with the turtle doves roughing it for a while like ordinary mortals, is just the thing to bridge over the gulf that yawns between the romantic past and the prosaic future. There Is nothing like the mutual in Cost of New TubD rapenes IN THE new washablo table covers and house draperies a note has been struck which phould bring joy to the heart of the woman of aesthetic tastes and slen der means. Nothing could be more at tractive to the eye or more suitable for general Summer use In town or country than the table, lounge and pillow covers of heavy Austrian cretonne, showing large and striking designs printed in vivid, red, quaint Dutch blue or a charming olive green on a pure white ground. For the Summer dining-room they are precise ly what Is needed to impart the desired air of combined coolness ' and comfort which Is bo often lacking. These goods, which are warranted fast color and will stand almost any amount of ordinary wear and tear, are to be obtained at a price which practically places them within the reach of all. A table cover two and a half yards square costs about $2.50. while a tea table cover which is somewhat smaller and is stamped in an appropriate Japanese pattern in red and blue costs rather less. Lounge covers come at $3.75, and pillow cases of average size at 4S cents. Full length window hangings to match these being equally suitable for portieres, may be purchased at $3.75 a pair. As all of these articles will, with ordinary care and proper laundering, last two or three seasons, they cannot reasonably be con sidered in the light of extravagance. At the prices quoted, however, the goods must be hemmed or otherwise ' finished at home. - Pure linen covers of heavy grade, print ed in less flaring colors on an ecru ground and carefully finished in every detail, ere more expensive, but also more distinctly artistic. The designs In these specimens are va ried, showing in some the conventional ized fruit and flowers of the pre-Raphael. ite school of art, and in others the small arabesques and geometrical figures seen on an old-time sampler. Taffeta cretonne, mercerized taffeta and carnation cloth are new washable fabrics designed exclusively for drapery purposes, end all are extremely handsome, the silky finish giving to the surface a luster and richness which are highly effective. Por tieres of these materials are made chiefly in cream white or the art shades, among the latter the popular Alice blue and reseda predominating. In some instances they are printed In a conventional all over design, but the choicer specimens are made of the plain material with bor of the flounce several times so that it may lay flat, like a round-cut yoke. ow around the neck. The rest of tue flounce should hang loosely, forming a fancy finish to the top of the dress. Kdge the neck with a frill of lace and finish short sleeves with a lace frill below an inserting of the same sort of lace. This style of dress is very cool and may be worn without a guimpe on hot days. Pongee dresses are pretty and use ful for little folk and the skirts are seldom trimmed at all, unless by some fancy stitching above the hem. The blouse), on the contrary, are trimmed with drawnwork, lace and little gal- ' loons, both inserted and applied, and the sleeves and belt make up in elab oration for any plainness in the skirts. Shoes and stockings should match pon gee dresses, both in colored and white vai leties. Tongees wash well and wear well, but nothing ever looks quite as sweet upon a child or feels as cool as a tub dress of some thin Summer fabric. Little coats of pique or linen, trimmed to match the lace on little white dresses, are smart and useful for the child, and the thicker white coats may be braided In some attrac tive design. Pongee coats are smart with pongee dresses and should al ways be provided where the climate is as changeable as ours. Sashes have come Into style for little folk, but they are intended for even ing wear. Day belts are very simple, being mostly of white or black glossy leather, while most drtsses merely have i narrow belt braided or feather stitched, or else a strip of embroidery or lace beading. KATHARINE ANDERSON. Trip Is Over terest In pails and scrubbing brushes, in the opening of packing cases and the hanging of pictures, in the laying down of carpets and the putting up of curtains, for successfully starting a. lifelong comradeship. Compared with the blissful period which preceded it, it may seem somewhat unpoetlc, but, like the cold spray after a warm bath. It Is a splendid bracer. - Also, as bal anced against the fledgeling house wife's culinary failures which every body expects it possesses the rarer and more alluring charm of novelty. ders printed In an exquisite Dresden pat tern and edged with fancy silk braid. Striped and flowered jute Is a pretty and serviceable medium for Summer dra peries, or for living-room and bedroom use the year around. It also makes a most artistic wall covering, applied in the same way as denim or cartridge paper. It is seen oftenest in charming Watteau designs, printed in the sofest and loveliest tones imaginable. It costs So cents a yard and is just the right width for a portiere. If employed- for this purpose, the edge. should be finished with a narrow fancv braid. In line with the popular demand for linens and cotton is the revival of th fad for Bulgarian embrodleries in the way of table covers, centerpieces, bureau scarfs and pillow covers. These embroid eries, the best of which are the work of Bulgarian peasant women, though many are but machine-made Imitations, are wrought In red and blue or brown linen crash. The designs, which are mosUy arabesques, are massive and striking. All of these articles are inexpensive, and a they are worked in fast-colored cottons, and so can be easily laundered, they form a very desirable addition to the store of fancy household linens. Never Trouble Trouble. Anna R. Henderson In Leslie'- Weekly. There's a cheery little proverb It is very well t-j heed. In a world where pain and sorrow Are quite plentiful Indeed. .If you would not have them double. Then keep this well In view. To never trouble trouble . Until trouble troubles you. Don't think when torm-cloua inner You are certain to be drowned; The very darkest tempest May quirkly blow around-. And up above the blackness ' Shine evermore the blue; So never trouble trouble Until trouble trouble you. Ofttime a gloomy morning Preredvs a sunny day: So. without word of waminc. Our trials !lp away. , "What pangs we oft have suffered From ills we never knew! So never trouble trouble Until trouble troubles you. Quit counting all the brioyes You mav never have to crorM. Quit ellmhln-t all the ridces of future pain and loss. Trud-fe on and do your duty. To God. and ronoene true. And never-trouble trouble Until trouble troubles you.
