42
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EQUATION'S and BylloBisms occupy far
less of the attention of the glrl Brad
.uate at comenccment time than the
et of her commrncement frock and its
beeomlnKness to her style of beauty; und
the fond mother takes far more thought
upon how her frlrl will look when she oc
cupies the center of Che BtaKe and reads
her valedictory than she does upon the
pearls of wisdom which flow from the
valedictory Itself.
There are materials which are smart
for graduation gowns, and fabrics that
"will do." People obliged to make up. the
latter atyles endeavor to make the needle
work so fine that the gown will look as
well as some extravagant creation which
will appear beside It.
Batiste, fine linen lawns, mulls and or
gandie carry with them a suggestion, of
glrllshness and youth which makes them
particularly acceptable as gowns for
young girls. Moreover, If net Is desired
new nets simulating old-fashioned point
lace, with little holes all over the fabric,
may be made up over silken slips veiled
In chiffon. It Is unwise to .buy a new
gown of net, however, unless one may
have an unlimited supply of gowns and
can cast aside one when its vogue dies
out.
Chiffon and expensive mulls and ba
tistes, delicately and richly embroidered,
lead as favorites for graduation gowns,
and these are made up in three smart
styles: the princess, the empire and the
skirt and blouse costume with Its pretty
sash or belt of white or colored silk.
What a picture some dainty blonde
makes In her quaintly fashioned gown of
embroidered 'mull made In empire lines.
The upper part will be entirely of em
broidery resting upon a yoke of fine Val
enciennes lace. The short puffed sleeves
will bo plain, finished with a border of
embroidery that rests upon a fitted cuff of
Valenciennes that reaches to the elbow.
On the Making of an Ordinary Cook
, Tea and Coffee, by Miss Lillian E. Tingle, Director Portland School of Domestic Science.
SEVERAL correspondents have recent
ly reminded me that while many
kinds of eatables have been dis
cussed, the drinkables have been some
what neglected.
"Tell us how to make good coffee," says
one. "What do you consider the best
kind of tea?" says another. "Why isn't
my chocolate as good as what I get away
from home?" says a third. The last ques
tion is not very easy to answer as it
stands, but perhaps something helpful
can be 6aid about the other two.
First, about coffee: Buy a good grade
of coffee and don't be afraid of paying a
fair price. If cost is an object, serve
coffee less frequently, but let it be worth
drinking when you do have it. Most peo
Vfe like a mixture of two parts Java to
one part Mocha, but you can vary it to
suit your particular taste. Buy rather
pmall quantities at a time, so as to se
cure Its being freshly roasted. If you
grind It yourself (it Is, of course, best
when fresh ground), heat the berries a
little in the oven, if posslhlo, just before
placing them in the grinder. Grind It
very finely. Ask for "pulverized coffee,"
if you do not grind it at home. The fine
division of the coffee enables you to ex
tract the acomatic and agreeably stimu
lating material from the coffee without
boiling," and you are thus less likely to
injure your digestion with the unwished
for tannin which boiling extracts from the
berry. Boiled coffee is responsible for
much of the blame that some people cast
on coffee in general; but. of course, you
must beware of excess in drinking even
the finest of filtered coffee or of anything
else, for that matter.
For ordinary breakfast coffee, where a
comparatively small amount of cream Is
to be used, most people like an allow
ance of two level tablespoonfuls (or one
"rounded" spoonful) to every cup of hot
water. For "after-dinner" or black cof
tre. or where you serve French, "cafe au
sut" U'oftoe and hot milk In equal parts,
r one part' coffee to two parts milk), you
may uye as much as four level tablespoon
fuls (one ounce) of coffee to every cup
of hot water. Never use a tin coffee pot
or a worn nickal one if you value fine
flavor. Earthenware pots are best, and
granltcware next best. Of course, there
are many patent coffee machines on the
market that give very excellent results,
but you can make first-class coffee with
an ordinary whiteware pitcher and a
small muslin sack. Whatever kind of
coffee pot you use, remember -to scald
and air It dally, and tlf of granlteware)
use a solution of sal-soda on it occa
sionally. A double boiler makes an ex
cellent coffee machine. Have a muslin
bag hung on a bit of wire to the side of
the pitcher, coffee pot, or boiler In which
you make your coffee. Put the fine
ground coffee In this, after rinsing the pot
with hot water to warm it. Pour slowly
over the coffee the necessary amount of
boiling water and let it infuse and drip
tlirout'i the cuffee. The got fuay be sat
Her moiifiquetaire gloves of kid. Kiiede-or
silk roll up upon the lace cuff. The fluffy
hair Is tied with a big white taffeta bow
Just back of the pompadour and again
lower upon the back of the head, or two
side bows decorate the coiffure low upon
the back where the braids or coils of
nair are girusmy arranged.
- The short-walsted bodice will be encir
cled by soft folds of sa.sh ribbon that wil
knot at the back and hang in long ends
to the hem of the dress, and all the lower
part of the gown will be of embroidery
with the irregular outline of the embroid
ery showing a lace flounce upon the under
skirt beneath. .
In another gown, embroidered batiste
will have soft panelB of fullness in the
bodice held In shape by appliques of lace,
which inserted pieces and appliques of lace
will give a princess shaping to the lower
part of the bodice and upper part of the
skirt. Prom here continuations, of lace
and gracefully arranged appliques con
ceal the beginning of the fullness of the
skirt which falls In simple lines, ending
In an embroidered lower portion over a
sheer underskirt elaborately trimmed with
lace. Simple outlines are necessary In
graduation gowns, but richness in material
and In fine needlework are a considera
tion. Ruffles are to be avoided, and where
parallel trimmings are employed a quaint,
smart and girlish style of decorating a
skirt is in folds edged with lace frills, or
In tucks edged with lace. Trimmings for
graduation gowns should always observe
simpler outlines than are used upon gowns
lor the girl who is "out."
In skirt and suit costumes chiffon (or
sheer wash fabrics instead) is quite ador
in hot water to keep hot (hence the use
of a dpuble boiler), or kept on an as
bestos mat on the stove, but should not
be allowed to boll. If the strained coffee
is sent to table in a more ornamental pot,
this also should be thoroughly heated with
boiling water before It receives the coffee,
and it may be kept hot in an old-fashioned
wadded "English cosy." Whatever else
it is or Is not. coffee must be hot. Good
cream is essential for good coffee. If the
supply is limited, or if it is altogether
lacking, make "cafe au lait"; that Is,
have your coffee extra strong and dilute
It with scalded milk. Or try using, in
place of cream, scalded milk poured oyer
a beaten egg yolk one yolk to every
cup of milk. This will prevent the blueish
tinge and tinny taste of creamless coffee.
For coffee "Vienna style," floating
whipped cream is' needed as well as the
cream for mixing. A little beaten egg
white is often used with the former to
make It lighter and more foamy, as well
as to economize cream.
Tea is quicker and easier to make than
coffee, but is even more, often badly made.
In choosing tea, remember that green
teas, although they look weaker and more
innocent, are really more likely to cause
"nervousness" than the stronger looking
black teas. I find that many people not
particularly fond of ordinary green, Japan
or "English Breakfast" teas succumb to
the charms of fine Ceylon tea, properly
made, and find It most refreshing, espe
cially in hot weather. Just as coffee Is
best taken at the end of a meal, so tea
is least haripful if taken apart from food,
simply as a mild stimulant, when one is
specially tired, cold or overheated. Tea
acts on the skin and promotes perspira
tion, hence its value in hot weather.
To make it, have freshly boiling water.
Water that has boiled for some time be
fore being used gives flat-tasting tea or
coffee, owing to the lack of air in it.
Heat your earthen ' teapot (metal tea
pots are generally abominations) with hot
Dazzling 'Array in Summer Fancy Work
THIS Is to be the season of dazzling
embroideries, and there will be a
perfect riot of . color on the hotel
piazza when the fancy work brigade is in
session. All the new embroideries are
brilliant in hue and daring in design, the
flaring red flowers'of the field poppy and
the vivid crimson blooms of the Ameri
can Beauty rose being first favorites 1
the scheme of decoration. True, here
and there one may see a spray of wild
roses or a tangled mass af Parma vio
lets, or even a delicate wreath of sweet
peas, but -these quieter effects are the
exception rather than the rule.
Center-pieces and sofa pillows seem ' to
divide the honors of the season equally
between them, perhaps because no woman
was ever known to have enough of either.
The flower embroidered center-piece of
today is a thiug pX beauty and Uia mak
THE SUNDAY
able made with a skirt whose fullness,
is added to as it nears the hem by means I
of applied tucks edged with filmy lace. I
Untrimmed tucks are also smart. These
are interspersed with irregular rows of
inserting, and the flat lines are more
youthful than they would be if the tucks
were shirred or corded. The top of the
skirt may be put on -the belt in box
pleats, small tucks, lace bordered panels
or with gathers. The bodice carries out
this scheme of. decoration, being made
with parallel tucks, arranged as they are
upon the skirt, and so planned 4 hat the
loose lower tuck will give a bolero effect
above the wide belt or sash. The yoke
should be of lace, without a collar, and
either in a square or round shape at the
neck. The same sort of lace should trim
the short puffed sleeves above the elbow,
and might be put on in cuff shape or in
little frills.
Sashes and belts of ribbon are wide
and round in shape. They are much sim
pler in make than formerly, holding their
shape over whalebone stays. Ixmg plain
ends are smarter than decorated ones for
the girl graduate, and the top may end in
knots, a bow or rosette.
Soft taffeta and a ribbon of heavier
weave corresponding to soft taffeta are
best for hair ribbons, both in white and
black, and these should be wide, except
when of velvet. In this case bows for
water before put'ting in the tea. A tea
spoonful per cup is the average allow
ance. If you infuse the tea In the pot,
pour on the boiling water, and allow to
stand three minutes. Some people prefer
five minutes. Six minutes is the extreme
limit for the leaves to remain in the in
fusion, even for those who like very strong
tea. Use more tea if you can't get it
strong enough with three minutes steep
ing. Pour it off the leaves into a second
pot if you want to provide a second cup
as good as the first. The English cozy
already mentioned is useful in kepeing it
hot, but is a thing of evil when placed
over a pot containing the leaves. Of
course tea must never be boiled (though
I bave seen misguided people do so), and
long steeping not only destroys the fine
flavor but brings out. the injurious tanin
into the solution. The use of a tea-ball
avoids this. Or for a small quantity of
tea the water may be slowly poured over
the tea held in a little strainer. The
strainer should be of silver or china, as a
tin strainer is likely to injure the flavor
a little, besides becoming blackened and
unsightly itself. In making tea to be
served iced or In punch, the same rules
must be followed: never use for such pur
poses tea that has been allowed to go
cold on the leaves. Make it fresh, strain
it, and set it away to cool before icing.
Hot tea, "English style." is served with
cream and sugar; "Russian style," with
lemon, sugar, and sometimes a liquer.
"American style" means usually that the
tea has maraschino cherries for its ac
companiment. Owing to the short time required for In
fusion and the ease with which the deli
cacy of its flavor Is spoiled, it is preferable
whenever possible to use an alcohol lamp
and make tea at table, rather than in the
kitchen. Those who have the necessary
coffee machine generally prefer to make
coffee also at table, both enjoying sense
of home and hospitality which the mak
ing or watching the making gives, and
missing nothing of the seductive aroma.
LILIAN a TINGLE.
ing of it should fill the soul of the ar
tistic needlewoman with joy. Its founda
tion consists of a circle of linen, grass
cloth or scrim, ecru being preferred to
white. This is usually completed with a
two-inch edging of Torchon or' Maltese
lace. ' . .
In most of these floral embroideries
there is a vast amount of work, for the
blossoms are invariably large, and us
ually are worked m solid embroidery, the
natural shading of the flower being ac
curately copied. The crewel stitch is
generally employed, but occasionally satin
stitch is used effectively. The former
work is done with crewel needles, using
fllo silk for the blossoms and Roman floss
for the stems. A striking feature of all
the new embroideries is the great variety
of stitches used in combination.
Things are not always what they seem,
h.owevw4 in fancy. worlSj tor some ol .tae
OREGOXIAX, PORTLAM),
the hair are of medium wide velvet, and
there are times when this finish to the
young girl's coiffure is most effective and
becoming.
Satin, Bilk and suede slippeVs are in
equally good form with the frocks just
described, and white siik stockings might
be either delicately embroidered in small
blossoms or be of the lacelike variety,
with simple lace stripes in -the weave.
There are two styles. of hats particular
richest effects of solid embroidery are ob
tained with the aid of fancy braids. For
example, a? very striking center-piece in
white linen, showing a handsome raised
design of wheat ears, seems almost be
yond the capabilities of the ordinary em
broideress until the discovery is made
that the ears are cleverly simulated with
rice braid sewrt on with little trouble.
Another seemingly intricate design is
worked out in the identical Vandyke braid
that was used when we grown-ups were
little folks, in making crocheted edging.
Nowadays it Is appliqued on linen and
used as a basis for an endless variety of
lace stitches. Fancy braids of silk, gen
erally picot-edged, are often used in color
embroideries, and always in such a way
as to suggest a great deal more work'
than Is actually bestowed.
The new ribbon embroideries are charm
ing. They are wrought on scrim chiefly,
and are executed in a variety of ways.
In one design of La France roses, the
flowers are made of puffed pieces of
shaded silk, the foliage and stems being
worked in baby ribbon. Jn another, show
ing a spray of dog roses, the flowers are
formed of ribbon rosettes, the pistils being
simulated with French knots of yellow
floss. In still another of forget-me-nots
and maidenhair fern, the whole design is
wrought in baby ribbon with the excep
tion of the stems, which are etched in
floss.
Among the handsomest center-pieces are
those having a wide border of Renaissance
lace around a small circle of scrim, with
sprays of roses and foliage wrought in
natural colors in ribbon embroidery, trail
ing over both. In sofa cushions of ribbon
embroidery, the Empire designs are the
most popular. And there is a perfect
furor for shaded effects from the scrim
foundation to the triple ruffles of ribbon
or scrim that serve as a border.
Just One Hundred Years Ago.
Our Dumb Animals.
. Few persons today stop to realize how
different things were in this country a
century ago. Here are a few things to
think of:
Merchants wrote their letters with quill
pens. Sand was used to dry the ink, as
there was no blotting paper. There were
no street letter boxes: letters had to be
carried to the postofflce. It cost 18H
cents to send a letter from Boston to
New York, and 25 cents from Boston to
Philadelphia.
Every man Washington, for example
wore a queue; many powdered their
hair.
Imprisonment for" debt was common.
Virginia contained a fifth of the whole
population of the country.
The Mississippi Valley was not so well
known as the heart of Africa now is.
Two stage coaches' carried all the trav
elers between New York and Boston, and
six days were required for the Journey.
There was not a public library in the
United States. A day laborer received
two shillings a day.
Stoves were unknown. All cooking was
done at an open fireplace.
Many of the streets were unnamed, and
houses were not numbered.
Heard on the Train.
' Leslie's Weekly.
Passenger Are your sandwiches
fresh?
Sandwich boy I don't know, mister;
I'yg Paly, been here three days,
MAX 27, 1906.
ly adapted to the girl graduate, the Leg
horn and the lingerie. Other Btraws of
this season are either too yellow or too
dressy for a young girl, while Leghorn
has about it a simplicity and youthful
ness that is charming. Few people under
stand the charm of exquisite simplicity
in a young girl's hat, and we see numbers
of girls of all ages in hats made of the
materials worn by their mothers and old
er sisters. A Leghorn simply trimmed
Keeping CJour Feet Cool
NOTHING tires one more than an
overheated foot in Summer and
few things occasion more colds than
chilled feet in Winter. Common sense
in dressing the feet not only leads the
way to comfort, but also to good health.
Colored shoes are cooler than black
ones, and patent leather shoes are like
well-heated ovens upon tender feet.
It is said that the treatment of black
shoes prevents the ventilation which
colored shoes of the same thickness
possess, and we all know- that a
black color concentrates, attracts and
holds neat which would be diffused in
light colors as light. Instead of heat.
We have our vogue for light shoes,,
therefore, resting upon a sound basis
of common sense, and it might be as
well to dwell upon that fact and neg
lect tc consider some of the foolish
lengths to which our present fashions
in footgear lead us.
Unless one dresses in black, colored
shoes are an absolute necessity to
every woman. The wealthy may buy
anything they please, no matter how
perishable it may be, and it is to the
practical woman who is not wealthy
that the following suggestions as - to
economy in smart tootwear are ad
dressed. All gowns may be matched with
calfskin shoes,- frequently called
"pumps," tinted in smart colors. They
are strong, durable, keep their color
well and may be easily cleaned with
a rag dipped in equal portions of milk
and water. - Tan shoes are cleaned in
the same manner. An admirable mix
ture is sold, however, by big shoe
shops which cleanses colored leather
shoes like a charm.
The linen, silk and light wool gown
should be matched with shoes of col
ored leather, and these - are provided
with spats of leather buttoned with
self-tinted or contrasting buttons.
Belts, too, of the same leather . and
hue may be had in the shoe depart
ment, for it is very smart, indeed, to
match the shoes with belt and hat
trimming and a little touch of the
color upon the bodice of the gown.
Lingerie and white linen gowns will
be features of the Summer worn with
these fetching accompaniments.
Three other very smart " styles of
shoes are provided for Summer use.
These are of linen, of silk and of can
vas. Never buy a really cheap shoe
In these materials with any. idea that
it will Veep its Fhape and look and
wear well for long.
Shoes of this character are made
with the flat leather and silk bows of
the pumps, and also with a short rib
bon lacing to match the shoe. There
are also low shoes with side lacings
of ribbon that are very . attractive
with their coquettish bows UDOn the
,.t,l M.nv 1! .. .. J .-ill- i
niUVO. ..JC.11J. . HI- Illicit ClliU Oil JV j
pumps and shoes are embroidered in I
small figures over the toes, with cot
ton and, siDs emjirpid.ery, . flpas! . go.Xt.jL
with a wreath of flowers and a drooping
brim; or with short ends of ribbon and a
cluster of flowers, is girlish to a degree
and invariably becoming to a young face.
Panamas and Porto Rican straws may
be classed with Leghorns, since they are
of the same type, only of almost everlast
ing quality.
The girl graduate often plans her ward
robe for the Summer following her gradu
ation at the time when1 her commence-
silk frowns have shoes made of the
same kind of soft silk in a heavier
weave, and cotton and linen gowns
are worn with the linen and canvas
shoes, which, like silk shoes, may be
procured in every color or made to
order from pieces of the gown. They
are just as . reasonable in price as a
black shoe of the same make would
be. Black shoes, with spats made
from pieces of a gown, are both eco
nomical and smart."
All the dainty colored shoes are in
tended for day wear, as well as many
of the exquisitely made suede pumps
and shoes, which are frequently em
broidered upon the toe with appliques
of cloth put on with tiny beads, as
well as with embroidery in tiny beads.
Evening and house slippers of fancy
silk and satin are particularly smart
when trimmed with appliques of
cloth worked out with tiny beads.
This form of decoration lias entirely
With the Children
"H
ERE are roses for love, and rue
for remembrance." Into up
turned faces a mother looked tenderly
as she put into each little hand roses
and rue to be placed upon the graves
on Decoration Day. She had told the
children all about Decoration Day;
about the soldiers who had died glori
ously for their country; the philanthro
pists whose good deads lived on to per
petuate their memory, and the poor and
unknown dead whose loved ones were
far away or dwelling in saddest pover
ty, and who rested beneath low, un
kempt mounds beyond the boundaries
of the private cemetery, with none but
God to decorate their humble graves
with waving grass and occasional wild
flowers.
The children were very young, but
they had understood. Very quickly,
too, they comprehended when their
mother laid shining palm leaves into
their baskets of flowers. Those repre
sented glory and honor and victory,
they knew. Were not three palm
leaves, bound with royal purple, laid
upon the breasts o heroes who were
carried to their last rest?
To these children the lesson of Dec
oration Day came strong and sweet.
It was not merely a holiday when
men marched to the cemeteries with
banners furled and solemn music; when
families adorned their burial plots with
floral emblems and all the ways of con
secrated grounds were bright with
flowers the day meant more than
that. To them It meant a greeting
from the living to the dead. A calling
out in the radiant, tender language of
flowers, in this their blossom time- of
the year; a message of love, of remem
brance and of confidence that their
llyeSj like ...the rejuveniUed. Xa.ce pf na
ment gowns are purchased. She will need
a number of Kuimpes. and these should
be of a flat character and not shirred and
fluffed, as many have been in years past.
The lace should be transparent and wash
hie and may be mingled with embroidery.
Some guimpes may be made without col
lars, and others with a boned stork &l
lace. Fine embroideries also make up
charming guimpes.
For her lingerie frocks the young girl
will want an assortment of colored silk
and leather belts, with shoes, hosiery, ties
and hair ribbons-to match, since it will
be smart to have these touches of color
in white or pale costumes. For her flow
ered lawn and organdy gowns she will
want belts and sashes of plain color,
and flowered or embroidered ones will
prove effective with her white frocks.
Colored handkerchiefs, too, will prove a
necessity with colored gowns, and with
those worn with some color scheme, while
simple parasols to match her hats or
frocks will be among the necessities of
the Summer.
Gloves of silk and kid, of the colors of
her belts and gowns, must be provided,
only that instead of white gloves she
will get pale yellow ones to take their
place.
For visiting frocks she may choose be
tween flowered and plain, chiffons, thin
veilings, soft Bilks and wash fabrics of a
sheer, soft character,, while house and in
formal gowns made of flowered lawns and
organdies are always bewitching upon a
young girl, and are worn with ribbons
matching the dominant color in the gown.
Sporting, outdoor and motoring frocks
are in good form made of linen of some
pale or neutral tint, with dainty acces
sories to give that touch of completeness
and cachet which Is necessary to the
smart dress of today.
KATHERINE ANDERSON.
in Summer
superseded the old styles of embroid
ery upon shoes and - slippers.
It is good form to have the slippers
just as elaborate as a fancy arrange
ment of straps, open embroidery and
tiny beadwork can make them, while
gold, silver and colored slippers shot
with gold and silver threads take
their places In the ranks of necessary
smart footgear.
Patent leather pumps finished with
edges and heels of green, red, white
and gold are having a vogue, and so
are evening slippers decorated with
silver and gold bows and flowers.
The cunning little bedroom mule has
a short vamp, this season, and is made
of any flowered silk or satin, with
small wired flowers set on one side of
the toe.
Stockings match shoes in color and
are invariably of lisle or silk, with a
preference for simple styles worked in
small figures in silk.
on Memorial Day
ture, flowered in sweeter and greater
perfection beyond the portals of the
grave.
Child nature is intensely sympathet
ic, intensely impressionable, and upon
their plastic young minds impressions
become indelible. The lessons of Dec
oration Day are invaulable fo the de
velopment of child nature. Children
learn honor for the1 brave and rever
ence for the good, that must go on
forever after those who inspire such
homage have departed. They learn
that love is not bound within the con
fines of the visible world, and that re
membrance enters Into vales of mys
tery and carries with it messages of
affection and of cheer that forge links
continually between the world visible
and the world invisible.
Then, too, the child learns to apply
our universal lesson of immortality. It
sees the newly springing grass and
bourgeoning trees, and learns that hu
man beings cast off the sere envelop
ments of blighted mortal life ana are
clothed upon with immortality. This
lesson in immortality, learned on Dec
orfation Day by the child, means a
depth of faith that helps them through
doubts that assail fn later years.
These children, with their baskets of
flowers, walked with reverent, won
dering exaltation among the graves
they decorated. In their baskets only
some roses and rue remained. They
looked beyond the borders of the cem
etery to the humble graves on oPtter's
Field and touched their mother's hand.
"We want to take them some love
and remembrance," they said.
AVlth Help of Marie Corelli.
Atchison Globe.
In talking about the many worth
less husbands, do the women prop
erly appreciate the few. good, pnea?