4t
i r l K4f . ;
V M '!
EMBROIDERY is the hall-mark of
all stylish garb this Summer.
From tub frock t filmiest chiffon
creations, fancy needlework of deftest
design relieves the plain fabric founda
tions and stamps as distinctly modish
all raiment which shows signs of
genuine or simulated hand embroidery.
The same is true also of every possi
ble dress accessory which completes
the well equipped wardrobe of even
,.the moderately wealthy woman, until
.one pauses to wonder if we will ever
again return to simple, unadorned
wearing apparel.
" For ' the woman who is handy at
' picking up new kinds of fancy work,
this craze for embroidered attire has
; an ever-increasing . fascination. No
sooner does she become fairly skilled
In one new stitch than another kind
of embroidery presents itself, and the
last one Is even prettier and more del
icately decorative than the one which
it follows.
For Instance, the very attractive
eyelet work so popular last Summer is
rendered still lovelier this year by its
combination with the Italian embroid
ery known as Reticella (pronounced
retiachella) lace. The latter gives the
effect of small Insets of lace mingling
with the cut-out designs of the eyelet
work. The insets, however, are merely
cut-out designs of different shapes
from the Madeira work, buttonholed
around the edges, and then filled In
by thread and needle with dainty lace
'patterns.
Another emhroldery that is combined
this year with eyelet work is the Dan
ish cut work.:: The cut-out designs
tliow tiny crescent and wedge shapes
and are closely overhanded as are the
eyelet pa tterns. Cross bars of button-.
hole stitch sometimes fill In the wee
open spaces.
For the beginner these combinations
of embroidery can be employed' most
charmingly to effect the small -accessories
of dress. The lingerie belt re
turns again with, a renewed vogue, and
rmbellished with either of these new
stitches it has an irreproachable style
and beauty. Then there is the lingerie
bertha to be worn with yoke bodices
and the linen revcrs and collars to set
tiff Jackets and boleros. These, like
wise, strike the very last note of ele
gant attire when they display bits of
3anlsh or Reticella embroidery, and
the handy girl finds In them an added
THE MAKING OF AN 0RDINA-Rg COOK
More About Frozen Dainties, by Lilian E. Tingle,
Director of Portland School of Domestic Science.
ALWAYS thought cold victual nice:
I My choice would be vanilla Ice."
says Oliver "Wendell Holmes in his
poem, 'fontentment." If you agree with
him In this respect (or even If strawberry,
or chocolate happens to be your "choice")
you have a still further selection to make
as to the kind of Ice cream, apart from
liavor. Philadelphia cream, custard mix
tures junket cream, mousses and par
fails, might all be- classed as "vanilla
ice." although there is a very considerable
difference in their cost and composition.
1. "Philadelphia" cream Is one of the
simplest and most delicious. You Just
take plain cream, not too thick, sweeten,
flavor and freeze It. Perhaps the safer
method is to ar&ld the cream, cooking it
in a double boiler until little bubbles rise:
then add the sugtvr and, after cooling, a
tablespoonful of good vanilla extract to
every quart of cream. This gives cream
of a more velvety texture than that
froien without heating, but 1b of course
rattier more troublesome.
2. "Plain" ice cream Is mad when
cream la not sufficiently rich or plentiful.
Kgrc yolks are very well beaten with the
necessary sugar, and are then added to
rich milk or thin cream, cooked like a
b.Mled custard, cooled, flavored and frosen.
Six to ten egg yoiks may be allowed per
quart. Whole etrsts are sometimes used
ion whole egg counting as two e?g yolks)
but the result Is not so rich and smooth.
If you use the yolks only rhe whites can
so Into an angel cake to accompany the
finished product.
In order to economise on eggs the cus
tard is sometimes thickened with a little
flour or cornstarch (preferably the for
mer! mixed with a little cold milk and
then cooked thoroughly In the hot milk.
Remember to cook the starchy part of
uch a mixture before adding any eggs,
since tbe latter would "curdle" at the
temperature necessary for cooking the
starch.
3. Junket Ice cream has the advan
tage of requiring little cream and no
heat. You take one Junket tablet dis
solved In a apoonful of cold water for
?p A-WaT M AAAf
allurement in the way of Summer
porch work.
Au embroidered accessory which
seems almost to have. passed out of the
realm of handwork, so elaborate has
it become, Ja the lingerie hat. In its
simple but becoming guise of a year
ago, It promised better things, but
this Bummer it has overleaped all
bounds and even Parisian milliners
deign to give it the mark of their ap
proval by chic and inimitable trim
mings, far removed from lingerie ef
fects. Of the two lingerie hats Illustrated,
the nstty sailor Is a distinct innova
tion of the Summer, and with its side
trimmings of American beauty roses,
no lovelier headgear with delicate
warm weather frocks could possibly
be asked for. The other lingerie
chapeau is also one of the season's
newest models, and because of its wide
drooping brim It is admirably suited
to the woman whose eyes suffer from
the glare of strong sunlight.
Both hats, however, with any kind
of hard wear, require that their em
broidered, coverings shall be frequent
ly laundered, and the woman who in
dulges in headgear of this sort must
bear in mind at Just what angle the
trimmings are adjusted, so that they
can be replaced . easily when she has
the linen foundation removed for clean
ing. Other examples of the lingerie
hat show beautiful maline and feather
trimmings. One model seen In a fancy
work shop displayed a linen founda
tion, s'amped for satin stitched em
broidery and shaped to fit a light buck
ram hat frame that had an extremely
Frenchy, saucer-like curve to the brim.
The completed model was built up at
the back with masses of maline, while
every quart of fresh rich milk, or milk
and cream, sweetened with one cup of
sugar and flavored to taste. The milk
should be Just "new milk warm," and
must not be boiled. Leave it until a
Jelly-like mass has been formed by
the action of the rennet in the tablet,
then freeze. Fruit creams, may.be
made by any of the above methods. The
chosen fruit should be picked over,
washed and mashed to a pulp, mixed
with syrup or sugar and a little lemon
Juice, and then allowed to. stand an
hour or so. It should be added to the
cream when, nearly frozen. It Is per
haps rather less troublesome and takes
less fruit to serve the crushed fruit
feither fresh or preserved) as a sauce
to vanilla Ice cream.
Chocolate; If used as flavoring,
should be scraped and cooked In a few
spoonfuls of hot water until smooth
and glossy, then added to the cream,
custard, or Junket. Strong black cof
fee, caramel, maple sugar or the syrup
from preserved ginger are all good
flavors for a change. Vanilla should
be added with the first three, and a lit
tle lemon rind infused in the cream
for the last.
A correspondent asks me for a re
ceipt for hot chocoiate sauce to serve
with Ice cream. I have found the fol
lowing one quite satisfactory ' and
easily made:
I4 cups water: I cup (level) aufrar: I
tablespoon cornstarch or arrowroot: 2 table
spoons cocoa (or rather more If - melted
chocolate Is used);. 1 teaspoon va&llla: a
ploch of salt.
Boil the water and sugar for two
minutes, add the starch mixed in a
little cold water; boil until clear. Add
cocoa (mixed with two. tablespoons of
water) , and salt; boll three . minutes
longer." Remove from the Are, and add
the vanilla. Sabayou, coffee, claret or
orange sauce might be used in a sim
ilar manner, and there are endless
"fancy Ices" that you can think out
for yourself with, nuts, fruit syrups
and fruits.
4. A mousso differs from ordinary Ice
THE SUNDAY OKKliOIAX, PORTLAND, MAY 13, 1900.
moss roses and ribbon coquettishly
decked the top. "'Straw hats with em
broidered lingerie brim'. are another
modish novelty, and to accompany them
come lingerie parasols patterned and
embroidered that match perfectly.
In the matter of embroidered robes,
their magnificence and costliness place
most of them so far out of reach -of
the average woman's wardrobe .that
they are to be admired rather than se
riously considered. The Princess frock
and the bolero suit pictured, however,
are among the very simplest of the
hand embroidered costumes. The one
made severely plain as to cut and fit.
Is embroidered from throat to ankle In
the most delicately designed Enfellsh
eyelet work, and shows a deep pointed
yoke and cuffs of Irish lace.
The other costume, a durable coat
and skirt of heavy white linen, is
simply but handsomely trimmed with
yards of hand-wrought scalloping on
its deep ruffles, while Insertions of
baby Irish lace still further increase
its unpretentious elegance. The plain
corselet portion of the skirt is shaped
with finest pin tucks to the lines of
the waist and hips.
Aside from the entire gown of hand
embroidery, there are separate parts
of a frock which show embroidered
motifs, and these can be bought
stamped ready for working. For this
cream in that it Is not stirred while
freezing, and retains the light texture of
the whipped cream which forms its main
Ingredient. A little gelatine is often
used (as in Bavarian creams) to stiffen
the cream slightly. Generally one pint
of double cream may be allowed to one
cup of fruit Juice or pulp and three
quarters of a cup of powdered sugar. If
gelatine is used one teaspoonful should be
enough. The cream must be whipped
very light and the' mixture folded to
gether. It is then turned into a chilled
mold and packed in equal parts of ice
and salt for three hours. This is a con
venient frozen dessert to make when you
have no freezer. The mold for a mousse
is sometimes lined with water ice, sherbet
or jelly.
5. A parfalt is similar to a mousse,
but usually contains beaten egg whites
as well as cream and has no gelatine.
Sunshine parfait is made by boiling one
cup sugar and one-quarter cup water to
a thread and pouring . over six well
beaten egg yolks. These are beaten as
for frosting, . then combined with one pint
cream (whipped stiff), flavored to taste
and molded like a mousse. Coffee parfalt
is made in the same way, using strong
coffee instead of water. Other flavorings
can be used and the name changed to
suit. Anfcel parfalt Is made with the
whites of two eggs Instead, of the six
yolks, but the method is Just the same.
6. 'Frozen puddings are usually less
appreciated than the creams- Generally
a rich custard, is thickened lth cake
crumbs, chestnut puree or crushed macv
caroons, together with chopped nuts or
preserved . fruits, and the whole molded
and frozen like a mousse. Boston brown
bread crumbs sifted and soaked In cream
or custard make a simple but good frozen
pudding. LILIAN E. TINGLE.
Benefits of Food Adulteration.
' Technical World Magazine.
Professor Still man, of Stevens Insti
tute, who recently gave a dinner at
which most of the viands were manu
factured by chemical means, believes
that much food adulteration is not
really harmful. "I sent my boy to the
store to buy a pound of the cheapest
li
X if
the French satin stitch is a noticeable
favorite, though It is frequently, re
lieved by touches of eyelet work, or
perhaps insets of Irish point braid
wrought by hand into mcdalion design.
Noteworthy among these separate
parts of a garment, is the shaped
panel or box pleat for the linen skirt,
stamped or worked ready to be ad
Justed lengthwise over or In the seams.
Still, another . embroidered emplace
ment is an epaulet intended to bo: fas
tened jori the. shoulders . of .-.lingerie
waists. . This is an. oblong piece or oval
shaped- piece- of . muslin. -It may be
merely-caught at the neck and allowed
to fair loosely over the ., 'top of the.
sleeve; or. If preferred, tacked ligijtly
to the material -of I the bodice. '. ,
As Summer advances, the vogue for
colored embroideries and embroideries
on colored fabrics is rapidly increase
Ing. . Among the heavier tub materials!
waists of crash in line blue, rose, or
lavender, show - self tone or . white
scroll-work - designs done -. in satin
stitch. These are most practical and
stunning for general eveYy day- wear.
Popular also are the linen boleros In
colors. . These, finish white costumes
with or without delicately colored lin
ings. Both the lapels, and -cuffs and
the, bolero Itself partake of the craze
for embroidered effects. ' .
KATHERINE ANDERSON.
raspberry Jelly," said Professor : Still
man, by way of explaining his beliefs.
"The boy ' brought back something
which looked and tastecHike raspberry
jelly, but which never saw. a bery.. It
cost .12 cents. The cheapest -possible
cost for raspberry Jelly it has rbeeii
computed would be 30 cents, a -pound
the real, raspberry jelly, ' I mean".
That represents the bedrock cost,raslde
from the labor costs and the ,proflts.
Now I analyzed that raspbe'ry Jelly and
found it was made of apple pulp after
the cider -was squeezed out, 'glucose,
and a few other materials.. It is true
that it would not appeal to the'edu"-cated-palate,
but it brings the luxury
of raspberry jelly within the reach of
the very poor. It was entirely harm
less; it was nourishing. The only harm
was the fact-that.it was labeled rasp
berry Jam, when it should' haveJbeen
labeled as an Imitation. ' I- could give
you many-other instances -of a similar
kind; but to .no' different purpose."
'Adventures of Mlss: Muffet.
' ' r. T ' '
Denver Republican. '
When along . cane a -spider. '
And sat down beside her.
' And frightened' Miss MutTet away.
,' . Mother Goose."'
When first she fled' from the spider drad,
i Miss Muffet was trembling with fright;
But soon she said; as she tossed her head;
."Such childishness cannot be right:
I must conquer my fear of this insect queer.
and with femtnlne squeamlshness cope;
I must seiae on this chance to my knowledge
enhance, with the ald'of a microscope."
So she poked and peered, while the spider
leered at her dinner of curds and whey.
And she wrote and wrote and took endless
note of the thing that before her lay;
And when the repast had ended at last, and
the spider had climbed up his rope.
Miss - Mnffet sat down. In her brand-new
gown, and wrote out a booklet of dope.
Now it chanced to pass that this brainy lass,
who had worked while the spider fed,
Waa a collere maid, and professors paid
much heed to this shrewd co-ed;
And her Insect lore thev all talked o'er' as
worthy of high degree.
So her medaled breast looked like Sousa's
vest, and her handle waa LL-D.
Yes.-the moral is this like our learned Miss,
you should stand - and be - brave, my
dears;
Just rise In yoor might and. conquer your
.fright, and see what is causing 'your
fears; ,
And no bogies you'll see. and trlumphanc
you'll be, and wfll silence each would
be derider.
Like courageous Miss Muffet. who marched
to her turret and studied that bluffing
-old spider.
. -.i. ,i.,..,,WMH,11 -IUI.JMBJBWO.IPJI
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I ,M
EeONOMieAL D&SSE-RTS
OF FHUIT
TH fruit again in f season, the
. housewife: can find no, more reason
able and palatable dessert than the
dumpling.' It is easily made also.' and if
-the dough Is handled with a light touch
it will be as delicious as pie- crust, with
none of the uncomfortable 'after-effects.
Especially with berries' of ail sorts, the
dumpling is an unusually economical and
tasty sweet. . . .
Three -Ways to ; Make the Foundation
for Dumplings:; ;No- 1-Mix' thoroughly
with one quart of flour three teaspoonfuls
of baking powder ' and , one small tea-spoonful-of
salt. Rub in a piece of butter
or. lard the size of, an egg, and then add
one medium-sized potato, grating It into
the flour.r After the butter is well mixed
stir in. sufficient milk to. knead to the
consistency- of biscuit dough. Break off
pieces of -the dough, fill with strawberries,
raspberries' or blackberries, and' steam in
an earthen dish -until the dough is cooked
through. Serve with .brandy sauce.
No. 2 Grease six cups and line with a
dough made- as described above. Wet the
edges, fill with fruit and sugar and cover
with the paste. Put in shallow stewpan
with boiling water reaching half way up
the sides of the cups. Stew thus 45 min
utes. Turn out on a heated. dish, sprinkle
with powdered sugar, and serye with a
spice sauce.
No. 3 Make the following paste: Three
cups of sifted flour, two cups of butter,
one yolk of an egg and a little salt. Have
the Ingredients thoroughly cold. Sift
flour on a pastry board and form it into
a ring with the back of the hand. Place
the yolk of the egg in the center and the
salt. Add a small quantity of ice water
and from the Inside of the ring grad
ually take the flour, adding more ice
water, little at a time, as may be neces
sary, making a cupful altogether, until
the paste is smooth, light and tenacious.
Place in an ice box 15 minutes and then
roll - out to the size of a dinner plate.
Next lay the butter on it and wrap over
the edges of the dough. Turn -upside
down and roll out very thin. Turn again,
fold over three times and roll again. Re
peat this three times, placing in a thin
tin on ice for a few minutes between each
, -m
rolling. -Roll out the paste thin for the
last time, cut into eight squaies of four
Inches each, lay on two tablespoonfuls of
berries and the same amount of sugar
and bring the four corners over the top.
Wet them slightly so they will stick to
gether. Sift with sugar and lay In a
baking tin. cooking in a hot oven for 25
minutes. Serve with hard sauce.
Rice Dumplings-Wash half a pint of
rice in several cold water's and throw Into
plenty of boiling water. Cook quickly for
20 minutes and pour off the water. Have
ready six squares of perfectly clean
cheese cloth, and lay some rice on the
center of each to the thickness of half an
inch. In the center of this place half a
canned pear, peach or apricot from which
the Juice has been removed. Fill the
place from which the stone has been
taken with rice, put over this the other
half of the peach, and gathering up the
cheese cloth, tie together tightly with a
piece of thread. As soon as all are made,
throw into a kettle of boiling water and
cook for 15 minutes'. When done remove
the cloths, pile the dumplings on a dish
and serve with the juice of the peaches
or pears, whichever may have been used.
Currant Dumplings Chop fine half a
pound of beef suet. Put in a basin with
four tablespoonfuls of flour, one pound of
bread crumbs, half a pound of sugar and
half a pound of cleaned currants. Mix
these together well and stir in three cups
of milk. Dip the center of a pudding
cloth In boiling water, wring out and
dredge with flour. Now spread the floured
cloth over the top of a basin, pour the
dumpling Into it, tie up with a piece of
strong twine and throw In boiling water.
The water must be boiling furiously be
fore the pudding Is thrown in. and half
a tablespoonful of salt added. Cook
steadily and evenly for three hours.
When done remove from the cloth and
serve on a hot dish.
Lemon Dupmplings. Chop one-half
pound of beef suet very fine. Mix it
with half a pound of grated bread
crumbs, a quarter of a pound of sugar
and the grated peel of one lemon. Stif
together well with two beaten eggs. Tie
in separate dumpling cloths and cock
for three-quarters of an hour.
English Dumplings Mix and sift one
: v.
pint of flour with one teaspoonful of
baking powder and one teaspoonful of
salt. Add one cup of finely chopped suet
and mix to a ,flrm dough with iced
water. Knead two minutes and roll out
half an inch thick. Put a floured cloth
over a bowl and spread' the crust on It.
Fill with gooseberries and their weight
of sugar. Tie the cloth up, leaving plenty
of room to swell and boll for two hours,
being sure the water is kept at a fast,
even heat. Serve with very thick cream
and powdered sugar.
Farina Dumplings Bring one quart of
milk to a boll, stir in ten ounces of
farina and boll until done, stirring con
stantly. Allow this to cool and add one
tablespoonful of fresh butter melted, to
gether with three eggs well beaten. Last
ly, add one-half pound of sifted flour, one
and a half teaspoonfuls of baking powder
and one teaspoonful of salt. Drop a
tablespoonful at a time into boiling salted
water, cooking each spoonful 20 minutes.
Take out with skimmer and serve with
strawberries mashed together and well
sweetened.
Something New for
the June Bride
H3RE is a bewitching new gift,
girls, which is Just the .thing to
present to that dear friend who
has set her wedding day for the com
ing month, and no June bride could
possibly wish for a more exquisite
parting remembrance from a school
girl chum.
Fairy scarfs we have had for a year
or more, and they have Increased from
season to season in beauty and loveli
ness. Scarfs spangled, scarfs hand
painted, scarfs feather trimmed and
scarfs entirely of splendid lace, have
each seemed to surpass the other as
choice and beautifying shoulder orna
ments. -But now cdmes to us from
Paris a scarf that is even more charm
ing still in its makeup, with the fur
ther attraction that a girl can make It
herself. , . .
It is the fancy scarf for -wear, with
gauzy muslin and organdie gowns.
Sheerest batiste, finest maline or one
of the chiffon silks, such as liberty or
moussellne, axe combined with lace in
sertions to effect this dainty acces
sory, and as a purest white ot pale
colored confection it forms a veritable
cloud about throat and shoulders of
the pretty miss who is fartunate
enough to possess one.
The scarf itself is two yards and a
half or three yards long, and varies in
width from 12 to 18 Inches, though
when made of tulle the width of the
net is employed, the effect produced
being that of an old-fashioned fichu.
Noteworthy is one of the latter
scarfs in fine dotted net, which is
somewhat firmer than the maline, and
therefore is not built double. A wide'
strip of the snowdrop material Is
edged on all sides by a ruffle six to
eight inches in width,- which in turn
shows a finish of narrow Valenciennes
lace. Concealing the Juncture of scarf
and. raffle is a ruching of double-edged
Valenciennes lace, gathered through
the center.
Another of these Summer scarfs U
a mass of the finest white muslin.
Sheer batiste also might be used with
a muslin foundation the desired width
of the scarf. For the upper portion
the entire width of batiste or muslin
Is employed, and at Intervals of two
Inches, folds of the material an inch
deep are caught up and gathered at
their base; so that the fullness Is all
brought within the wtdth of the found
ation. The result is a flat stole show
ing numberless short full headings ex
tending crosswise down its length, and
having a couple of wider folds termi
nating either end.
Scarfs similar to this will be used
on every occasion during the warm
months. At the Summer hop they will
serve as an Indispensable -protection
for bare neck and arms after the heat
of the' dance. At garden fetes and af
ternoon teas they will appear as a
beautifying accessory to complete airy
toilettes, and, most unique and fas
cinating of all, one June bride has
chosen' them as the - finishing adorn
ment for her maids' lavender frocks.
Scarfs of palest blue muslin, bouffant
with ruffles of the material and of
lace, will be thrown stole-like about
their necks, while huge muffs built to
match will be carried Instead of flow
ers. As a final touch to their Summer
loveliness, many of these light scarfs
are set off by a single artificial floa'er
pinned Just at the throat. An Amer
ican Beauty rose, a- cluster of yellow
primroses or a spray of lavender wis
taria, lends its posy brightness ' to the
cloud-like softness of these delight
fully feminine adornments. .
. They Can Stand. 1U
Atchison Globe.
When a man makes a failure of his life
a late popular excuse is to blame it oa
the trusts.