4
45
EEAOH year the value of Summer silk
as a practical Summer fabric Im
presses itself most strongly on
the feminine, nund. It is bo clean and
cool, and withal comfortable, that not
even the. new chiffon Panamas and mo
hairs can In any way rival It for warm
lveather -wear, and this season, -with
every promise of an exceptionally hot
Summer, the woman who looks on the
sensible as well as the fashionable Aide
of costuming is choosing silk garments
In preference to. either cloth or lingerie
effects.
SHk Is employed, too. for every con
ceivable costume from the street suit tp
the lounging robe, while the season's
stunningly patterned veilings and voiles
are Invariably supplemented by silken
' linings with flutings and quillings of silk
serving In all sorts of ways as the most
approved trimming. In fact, so neces
sary Is silk to the perfection of these
mil-transparent fabrics that without it
all the beauty of their sheer weaves,
whether cheap or costly, la completely
lost.
For practical purposes, though, H Is the
plain silk costume which finds greatest
favor as hot weather approaches, and of
. nil the weaves the Shantung pongees
' meet with most general approval. Their
durability and modishnesa alike commend
them to popular fancy and the woman
of moderate income can find no Summer
fabric which will give her quite as much
serviceas this rough, shaggy silk. The
very latest weaves show small designs
Interwoven in self-tone, and are lenown
: as Hindoo silks. Aside from their nov
THE MAKING OF AN ORDINARY COOK
Tror.on Mixtures, by Miss Lilian E. Tingle, Director of the Portland
GliNKRALLY SPEAKING, the easiest
and quickest way to make water
Ices, sherbets or ice creams, is to
prepare the: mixture t be frozen, 'while
an active-and intelligent man or boy
pounds - the ice nto small pieces, ' pre
pares the freezer, -and later turns the
crank. Most men. even stupid ones, can
p be trained to do this,, if you catch them
'r". young enough,, and are pajlent with their
mistakes. '. Kctncmber that as a rule in
i,: training all; kinds of animals, kindness. Is
v" better than a club. Don't omit an extra
dish of ice cream for the one who does
: the freezing especially if you should
have to do it yourself. If you do it all
yourself, and have no ice shaved; you
' probably know enough to use a gunny
sack and mallet in crushing the ice. I3o
you know, however, that where only a
small quantity of broken lee is needed
and the avoidance of noise is desirable (as
In preparing ice for a single cup of frozen
mixture for an Invalid or for other sick
room purposes), a darning needle properly
applied will splinter ice quietly and ef
fectively? Use the crushed rock salt that conies
for the purpose. The salt melts the ice
to unite with It. and in turn dissolves in
the water.' The change from solid to
liquid requires a large amount of heat,
and this heat-is abstracted from the mix
ture which is enclosed in a metal pall
In the Ice and salt. Metal is used for
this purpose because it Is a good con
ductor and easily allows the heat to pass
out. A bad conductor, sucn as wood or
wood fiber. Is used for the outer pail, so
that as Uttlo heat as possible may be
obtained from the air. and floor, but all
from the mixture to be frozen.
t
A friend of mine recently listened to
instructions on how to prepare an Inva
lid's ration of ice-cream, with a cocoa"
can surrounded by ice and salt in a lard
pall, hv failed to grasp lu.s principle.
She' oue in distress to say that the
method was -no good, "The bothersome
old. thing simply wouldn't freese." On
inquiry it appeared that she had taken
a glass to hold her mixture, as being
"daintier" than a tin; and as glass is
such a poor conductor of heat, of course
the result was unsatisfactory. In filling
your freezer (or saucepan or lard pail,
, if you have no freezer and are making
only, tk small guantity, as suggested.
8&
elty, however, they are nof nearly so
attractive as the plain weaves, which
this year are displayed most commonly
in peculiar faded shades of blu'e, yellow
and red.
As an example of the practical use of
Shantung,' the corset skirted suit' pic
tured has a style and usefulness which
only the woman who lias been worried
with cloth suits on sultry days in Sum
mer can appreciate. Cut In such a way
as' to give the least possible weight to
both skirt aud bolero, each piece Is given
sufficient firmness to keep its shape by a
very smart trimming of stitched bands of
satin applied In tailored fashion. Built
In one of the fashionable colors of Shan
tung, the suit likewise is dressy enough
to serve not only for every day wear,
but for second best as well, and the wom
an who is obliged to be in the shopping
or business districts In hot weather will
find such a costume absolutely Invalu
able. Another favorite use of Shantung silk
Is in the shirtwaist dress for cool Sum
mer days. In this guise it is handled
very much as are the various wash ma
terials. The illustration reveals a youth
ful shopping frock, the sole trimming of
which Is a smocking of the material to
form a yoke on blouse and skirt. Other
shirtwaist suits in this knotted silk are
relieved solely by pin tucks and fine shir
rings. This effects a simplicity especially
desirable, for a morning .dress, at the
same time 'giving it, very much'-the look
of the' popularitub shirtwaist frock.
The third rand last . practical - use of
Shantung ' pongee : Is . in( loose, separate
wraps, t: whleh ' the weir dressed" woman
above), use a 'saucer,' and measure In 3
saucerfuls of Ice to 1 of salt. This is the
best proportion for ice creams and sher
bets that are ' to be smooth and ne
grained. For frappe, which should be
half frozen and granular, use 2 parts ice
to 1 of salt, as you want the freezing to
proceed with greater rapidity. In pack
ing a mousse or parfait you may-even use
equal parts of ice and salt, while for
packing Ice cream, after It Is fully frozen;
not less than 4 parts Ice to 1 of salt
may be used.
.
The' freezer should be turned slowly at
first, in order to secure smoothness and
a fine grain. When the mixture becomes
mushy is the time to add any whipped
cream or stiff beaten eggs (if such are
called for) or the lemon Juice belonging
to a milk sherbet. After this, the freezer
may be turned rapidly. When the mix
ture Is solid, remove the' dasher, smooth
down solid with a spoon, "and replace the
lid. Draw off superfluous water, and. re
pack the pall if necessary, and let stand
until the happy moment of eating arrives.
If you are to mould the mixture, have
the mould chilled beforehand,' pack it to
overflowing with the mixture,, put a but
tered paper over the top (hanging over
the sides) and squeeze the lid .over this.
This ought not to let in the salt water;
but. If you are fearful,' you may wrap
up the whole thing in more greased pa
per, or put a striprof muslin dipped in
hot lard round the opening. Then pack in
ice and salt.
If you are using two kinds of mixture
one for lining and one for center pack
the lining with a spoon first, and have
the mold resting on the ice and salt while
you do H. Large baking powder cans,
or "bombe'" or "Melon" pudding molds
can be used if you don't possess a regular
Ice cream mold.
But what about the mixture to be
frozen? . This depends upon your taste,
your pocket and your imagination.
Remember that water ices and sherbets
are both cheaper and more cooling than
ice cream, are usually less trouble to pre
pare, and are often better liked. Ice
cream contains a good deal of nourish
ment, especially when made with eggs
as well as cream and sugar, and this
should be remembered both in planning
its use in -'a meal or in eating It between
meals. Water ices, -of course.- contains
much less ' nourishment, and in eating
these on a hot day you are not adding
so much fuel to your internal fires. .
I will begla xriib Ibe waer. mix-.
THE SUNDAY 'OREGO?sIAX, PORTLAND,
if JS V -V
r 1
finds indispensable in thin Summer
dresses. The maiorlty of these coats arc
built on Empire lines and reach half way
below the kneo, while the season's color
is Alice blue in preference to the natural
colored Shantung, which has enjoyed a
vogue the past two years. There are, of
course, certain objections to tne decided
color which, render it not, altogether de
sirable for all' round use, but in most in
stances it Is relieved by scroll work de
signs of black satin cord. For the wom
an to whom blue is unbecoming the pale
yellow Shantung, somewhat brighter
than champagne, has the added advan
tage of being not only smart, but suited
to almost all complexions, and it har
monizes with nearly every costume.
Taffetas for suits seem to be less in
evidence than in seasons past; that is,
the stiff, rustling taffetas. Supple quali
ties appear quite as much as formerly,
and black and white effects reign su
preme. Stripes, polka dots large and
small, and very stunning plaids, blending
the black and white In numberless silvery
lights, all carry out the fad for gray
which has been so marked, throughout
the Spring. These colorless effects have
an exceedingly spruce look and they lend
to their wearer a swagger air character
istic of the woman whose gowns come
direct from the French modiste.
School of Domestic Science.
tures 'and leave the creams and richer
frozen puddings until the next lesson.
Kor sweetening .you should use syrup,
not sugar. Make a quantity of syrup,
using one quart of water to every pound
of sugar and boiling 20 minutes. This
syrup can be botttled and kept ready for
use in Summer drinks as well as in ices.
For plain water ices you simply combine
strained fruit Juice or . pulp with the
cooked syrup until you have a mixture
rather stronger and sweeter than you
would want to drink at ordinary tempera
tures. - This is to compensate for the loss
of flavor that results from the action of
cold on the organs' of taste. A' syrup
gauge is useful In determining the proper
density of the mixture,- but your palate
is a fairly good guide. If you have too
heavy a- syrup it will not freeze so read
ily, and if It is too thin it will be coarse
grained and flavorless. ' Almost any kind
of fruit juice is improved by the addition
of a little lemon to Increase the accidity
and heighten the individual fruit flavor.
'
In making 'a mixed fruit frappe or a
fruit punch .without wine or liquor, you
can safely begin, with a foundation of
strong, sweet lemonado and then add
strawberry, orange, pineapple or other
fruit juices until it "tastes good." Black
tea. infused not more than five minutes,
then poured off the leaves and cooled, is
a refreshing addition to a mixed punch,'
either a frozen one or a merely iced
drink. The extra Juice from canned
fruits Is useful, and a little of the spiced
vinegar from sweet pickles gives a pleas
ant mystery to a fruit combination. I put
some of this into the frappe for a large
party held in a prohibition state. Sev
eral housekeepers approached me next
day for the receipt, and looked very know
ing and unbelieving when I denied the
presence of wine or liquor of any kind
One small boy drank 18 glasses of it in
the hope that he .would "begin to feel
funny." I think he did. but not Just-in
the way he was expecting. fc
... '
Water ices and sherbets should be
frozen stiff enough to eat with a spoon,
but frappe should, of course, be thin
enough to sip; and, 'as I said before, it
should be rather granular in. texture.
Sherbets are usually given, smoothness
and consistency by the addition of dis
solved gelatine a teaspoonful of granu
lated gelatine to a quart of sweetened
fruit juice is a medium proportion or
some of the ready prepared Jelly mix
tures can be used, thinned out with fruit
Juice and syrup.
Such a sherbet should be served in cups
with whipped cream pn top,.
14
'
iv
Another form of sherbet calls for one or
two egg whites to every quart of fruit
mixture. The egg whites may be beaten
with hot syrup (like frosting) or simply
whipped very stiff and added when the
sherbet is half frozen. Be sure to leave
room in the freezer for extra expansion
when egg whites are used.
Don't try to freeze whole strawberries
or other small fruits in sherbet or ice
cream. It sounds good and inexperienced
cooks are always attempting It, but only
hard, flavorless bullets result when the
fruit Is thus frozen. Fruit must be
mashed to a pulp or added after freez
ing. Preserved fruits (in liquor or strong
syrup which prevents their complete
hardening) may sometimes be introduced
with success, but even these are better
as accompaniments rather than ingredi
ents of sherbet or ice cream.
LILIAN E. TINGLE.
Dollars in Art.
r American Art News.
The first evening's sale of 75 paintings
belonging to the estate of the late Mrs. E.
M. Curtis and Mrs. J. -W. Brown, with
additions from Mrs. L. W. Haggin's. at
the American Art Galleries, New York
City, recently, brought a total of J8760.
The top price of the evening was JS00,
given by Fred C. Brown for "Cattle," by
Otto De Thoren. Mr, Brown also took
"Lake Windermere, England," by J. W.
Casilear, at J370.'
The Japanese and Chinese art objects,
from the collection of Kiehigoro Suzuki.,
of Toklo. brought a total of $3214. The
highest price of the second evening's' sale
was J2S00, paid by Otto Burnett, as agent,
for "The Connoisseurs," by Vibert. A.
Madras, "The- Convalescent," went to
George A. Dowden at $1125. C. M. War
ner, of Syracuse, took two canvasses by
Inness,-"A Glowing Sunset" and "Dela
ware Water-- Gap." at $900 and $S00.
Mauve's "The Harrow" brought only
$1500,? paid by Knoedler & Co., who also
took a small Schreyer, "Storm Bound,"
at $1800. The total for the evening was
$29,950, which, with the corrected total
for the first evening's sale, makes a
grand total of $37,430.
' Moltke the. Silent.
Exchange.
Count von Moltke. the great Prussian
General, was a fine chess player and once
wished to try his strength against a fa
mous professional. A match was ar
ranged, but the professional .was -warned
not to be talkative, as Moltke hated peo
ple who had a lot to say. Whether
Moltke overheard this warning to the
professional or not is not told. At any
rate, the match came off and the profes
sional, was very careful not to utter a
word. At last, however, he took the lib
erty of saying one ominous word, "mate."
Moltke rose,' went to the door, opened it
and before going out turned around and
said; "Confounded chatterbox.."-
MAY G, 1906.
HAM: A SAVORY MEAT FOR SUMMER
Various AYays for Preparing the Meat So That It Will 'Have a Perfect Flavor.
THE decided salty flavor of ham ren
ders - it one of the most palatable
meats that can be served during the
hot months. When the fresh meats be
gin to pall and seem heavy, ham, either
alone or In combination with chicken,
veal or sweetbreads, can be so prepared
as to Just "touch the spot." The buying
and. cooking of the various cuts, how
ever, have much to do with its tarsty
and appetizing qualities, and the house
wife who would have the service of ham
greeted with welcome must study the
best methods of offering it in Inviting
ways.
. To hake a ham so that it will have
a perfect flavor, an Enirlish recipe Is un
equaled. Soak the ham as for boiling
and after wiping it quite dry, cover en
tirely with a thick paste made of flour
and water. Then wrap it In. a greased
paper, tying it In several places to pre
vent the paper from slipping oft. Place
the ham in a baking tin and cook in
a well heated oven, basting It frequently
over the fire with hot drippings. If the
paper shows evidences of becoming burnt,
place another sheet over it. A ham of
five pounds will require four hours in
the oven. As soon as it Is done remove
the paper and the paste and while , still
hot rip off' the rind. When the ham Is
cool, brush it over with several coats
of glaze and put It away to get thor
oughly cold. This is only when the ham
is to be kept for cold meat. It is very
delicious also served hot. and if any of
the leg remains after the meal the glaz
ing can be done later.
Baked Stuffed Ham Boll a ham until
the skin can be removed easily and gash
it to the bone in several places. Fill
these grooves with the following stuff
ing: A small quantity of sifted bread
crumbs, a pinch of thyme, finely chopped
parsley, seasoned with salt and pepper
and enough butter to mix these ingre
dients to a paste. Brush the ham with
the well beaten yolks of two eggs, dust
it with some - more of the sifted bread
crumbs and bake until done.
Broiled Ham for Sunday Breakfast or
Tea Have the butcher cut two or three
slices of ham, each being only a little
over the thickness of sliced bacon. You
will doubtless have to pay a few cents
extra over the cost of the weight, as
butchers seldom like to cut the meat in
this way. Before broiling place in a
saucepan of cold water and bring to a
boil to remove the saltiness. Now wipe
dry, put between, the bars of a gridiron
'tis-
For the woman who walks a great
deal the taffeta silk skirt offers won
drous advantages. Favored particu
larly because of Its feathery lightness,
it still must be made with an extra
amount of fullness if it is to hang
gracefully and allow of perfect free
dom in walking. For this reason the
butterfly skirt is foremost among the
silk models, and an example in us
most attractive form js shown on tins
page. The corslet girdle effect is
shirred from bust to hip line, doinff
away with the need of a belt, while at
the same time giving a very trim,
shapelv look to the waist-line. To be
a success, by the way, these corslet
girdles must be well boned, and many
dressmakers, in order that they may
retain their shape, line tliem with hair
cloth as well as boning them. The
little lingerie waist which accompanies
the skirt ends . just below the bust,
thus permitting the girdle to fit the
figure snugly, free from any bulkiness
underneath.
Somewhat on the same order, though
for wear in cooler weather, are the
"Jumper" frocks that give the princess
waist-line and are caried up over the
shoulders by suspenders and bretelles,
revealing dainty full blouses under
neath. These are especially valuable
w-here a woman has a number of half
worn lingerie blouses, the embroidered
tops and sleeves of which will stand
considerable more wear. The "jumper"
frock, as well as most of the separate
silk skirts, are finished around the
bottom by three or four wide tucks,
and if any other trimming is employed,
it usually takes the form of satin
bands in a slightly deeper tone than
the silk.
Coats of taffeta In black or light
colors are most often seen in the form
and brown slightly on both sides.- Butter
and serve with hot graham bread and
some kind of chow-chow.
Ham and CWCken Pie Remove the
skin- from cold cooked chicken, cut the
meat into small pieces and mix with
the same quantity of finely chopped ham
and a little chopped onion. Season with
salt, pepper, mace and pour In about two
tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Butter
a deep baking dish, line the edges with a
light paste and put in the meat mixture.
Cover with a thick puff paste, punch a
hole in the top and bake in a moderate
oven. When cooked pour a half cup of
thickened milk seasoned with butter and
salt into the hole in the top of the paste,
and after remaining in the oven long
enough to heat, serve Immediately.
Service of Cold Cooked Ham.
Mousse of Ham, with Cherry Salad
Pass a pound of lean cooked ham
through a fine mincer. Place In a deep
bowl witn two . tablespoonfuls of cream.
Rub to a paste and pass through a fine
wire sieve. Place half a cup of aspic Jelly
in a saucepan with a glass of white wine.
Warm these together and add the sieved
ham, beating with a wooden spoon. Take
the pan from the stove, season with
pepper and grated nutmeg and stand
away to cool. Whip a pint of cream, add
It by degrees to the prepared ham, fill
Into a mold and put away In the icebox
until thoroughly set. For the salad, stone
ripe red. cherries, cover with a light
French salad dressing, mix with a little
chopped parsley and set on ice until ready
to serve.
Ham, With Madeira Sauce Cut some
slices of medium thickness from a tender,
nicely flavored boiled ham. Trim these
so they are the same size and remove
part of the fat. Put in a well-buttered
stewpan, cover with buttered paper and
cook in a moderate oven for a quarter of
an hour.. Then put a pint of madeira wine
in with the ham slices and reduce it by
quick boiling until a little more than
half the original quantity remains. Stir
in half a pint of thick brown sauce and
let It simmer for five minutes. Arrange
the slices of ham neatly down the middle
of a hot platter, pour the sauce over
them and surround with freshly cooked
young peas.
Ham Salads Line a mold with a coat
ing of aspic jelly and cover with small
cooked peas from which ail the juice has
been drained off. When this has set,
add another layer of the jelly and put
in a cold place until the latter Is firm.
Pound eight ounces or half a pound of
lean cooked ham iia heavy bowl and rub
It through, a .sieved basin. Season wiUi
of lace trimmed boleros, or. more mod
ish still, cut on the flowing lines of
the season's pony- jacket. Lace gen
erally sets off this .latter separate
wrap, and in some instances rosette
of chiffon, with scarf ends, are at
tached at the bust line and fall with
the loose fronts.
Manifold as are the practical uses of
taffeta and shantung, and their near
neighbor, satin-finished messaline (an
other silk very much in demand this
season), thin white silks, such as ha
butal and the very sheer Japanese
wash silks, have an inexpressible value
for hot weather service. Both admit
of constant tubbing, and the ease with
which they are .iroued renders them in
valuable to the woman who has a
fondness for the all-white dress. On
the other hand, they retain their fresh
ness Just twice as ions as the white
lingerie frock.
As a material for the separate waist
they have achieved a remarkable
vogue. Insertions of fine lace and ap
plications of embroidered- taffetas
finish them most daintily and help to
make the thin silk bodice a worthy
rival of the most costly and fanciful
lawn and batiste waist which becomes
so easily mussed as soon aa the very
hot days begin.
For entire dresses these thin white
silks -are combined charmingly with
very fine dotted nets. .Mechlin Inser
tions, too, mingle with countless pin
tucks in effecting these dainty little
Summer gowns. On one Parisian
model the spider web network of the
lace and net trimmings was em
bellished by the tiniest imaginable
flowers wrought from very narrow
ribbon in the jewel embroidery tints
of pink, yellow, blue and green. -
KATHERINB ANDERSON.
a tablespoonful of cream if handy, -some
celery salt, salt, pepper and -nutmeg, and
whip until it is stiff. Now stir in a.
tablespoonful of aspic jetly, a teaspoon
ful of vinegar and put the mixture into
the aspic lined mold, leaving a hollow
space In the middle vfor the following
salad: Use the leftovers of cooked meats,
chopped celery and chopped' chicken
blended with a little French dressing and
seasoned with capers. Any cold vegetables
can be made into a salad to serve wttli
the minced ham, and if desired the aspic,
both to line the mold and to season the
ham, may be omitted.
Let Women Drive. j
Country Life in America.
It is not many years ago that any
thing in the shape of a horse was sup
poised to be good enough for a woman.
It was the popular idea among those
who knew that given a good horse a
woman could ruin it in less than a
year. All this has changed amang the
intelligent women, however. Nowa
days the women know how to han
dle a horse that is, those who use
their brains and have watched the real
horseman at his work, so this question
of sex is not as important as it was at
one time. Of course there are thou
sands of women who know little or
nothing about the "horse, but-with the
great number of horse .shows all over
the country their education is pro
gressing fast, and' it will not be long
before almost any horse with a reason
able disposition can be- safely trusted
to a woman and be driven .or ridden
without damage. At the. same time
there are ladles' and men's horses, not
due to the fact that the animals will
be handled by the different sixes, but
because they require different charac
teristics according to the persons in
charge of them.
The Move to Town Jdfe.
Exchange.
Of the modern tendency to flock to
the cities, a writer Bays: "In 1801 not
more than 86 per. cent of the entire
population of England lived In towns
and embarked in urban Industries; to
day they who dwell in cities form more
than 66 per cent of the whole. On the
other hand, in 1801 the percentage of
the nation who lived in strictly rural
districts and were occupied in agricul
tural and rural pursuits amounted to
52 per cent of the whole popukition;
today it has descended to the alarmlna;
level of not more than 18 per cent."
i