4.
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THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, JANUARY 14, 1006.
43
PRACTICAL HINTS FOR JANUARY SHOPPERS p'Sfr"
t '
CRARMTNG MODELf
COPYING.
CHAK-MING MODES FOR COI'VISG.
rlTIT the tremendous cuts in
prices, which Invariably distin
guish this season, some of the
loveliest effects of the Winter are
being presented at enormous reduc
tions. The made-up gowns and hats
and wraps, when in good condition,
command still a large price. But the
unmade thing, in all directions, is vir
tually going for a song.
Everywhere may be found short,
marked-down lengths of Beautiful tin
seled tissues and bits of gold and sil
ver embroideries, which have made the
season so dazzling, and wmch, com
mingled properly with other, materi
als, are invariably beautifiers."
Hat shapes are greatly reduced, and
with a careful study of the trimmed
hats of the shops the woman of any
degree of cleverness knows what to do
with them. In fact, it Is with hats and
smart bodices that the moBt brilliant
economics may be achieved, for almost
everything dopends upon these, and
the style of putting innumerable ma
terials and colors together gives op
portunity for much individuality. So
those who, up to this period, have been
denied the more charming fashions
may now look forward to .them.
To the woman of any social setting
whatever, several costumes for con
cert, lecture, reception and matinee
wear arc indispensable. All of these
likewise must express a degree of ele
gance, be kept looking fresh, and suit
in every instance the occasion upon
which they arc worn. On the other
band, if only one toilette can be af
forded, let it be a new and well-made
tailor gown, for by a change of hats
and waists and a little smartening of
accessories the costume tailleur is al
ways acceptable.
Considering the question of dressy
bodices for any of the functions men
tioned, if a girl goes about much she
cannot have too many. A waist in
some soft material, topped by a little
bolero effect, is always pretty, for
those short jacket cuts are still much
worn and they lend tbemselves to very
elaborate results. Again, a fancy Eton
to be worn as an outside wrap, in
braided and embroidered cloth or silk,
will be found a treasure, and no gar
ment of really rich effect could be
more easily fashioned. To get up one
without a great expenditure for the
embroidery a brocaded silk could be
used. Instead of plain material. But
the figures of this must be outlined
with tinsel and touched up perhaps
with plain black. "When such a coat
is well made and finished with a fur or
lace collar, it will present the appear
ance of being something really splen
did. The fancy Etons of imported sort,
which one is lucky to even see In this
country, are all extravagantly dear.
And. since the majority have no ac
quaintance with them, they gain a new
value by their very exclusivencss.
A cloth bolero without sleeves, top
ping a silk waist and worn' with a
cloth skirt In the same color, achieves
at once a costume look, which in these
days of sequence between waist and
skirt is most valuable. Again, since
a velvet bodice and a cloth skirt or
silk skirt may go together and some
of the velvet bodices are the tiniest
affairs a three or fourjyard length of
velvet. In a good color Is something
not to bo passed by. Odd lengths of
lace in several patterns are likewise
good investments, as are also bolts of
shaded ribbon for embroidery, upon
lace or net. and pieces of handsomely
colored taffeta silk in sizes' big enough
to cover or trim a hat.
Some of the smartest hats of the
season arc made of buckram frames
covered plainly with taffeta. The
Fronch sailor, which turns up at the
back and Is mounted still higher by an
enormous bandeau, is a favorite mod
el, and a number of these for evening
wear are trimmed simply with tulle
and a tall nsprey. The most gorgeous
of these last splendid deckings cost
from $5 to $G apiece. But the silk
which covers the "hat may be only
$1.50. the tulle $l and the frame 2S
cents, so that a chapeau with a 530
look can be obtained for $7.75.
Girls who have acquired some of the
tricks of millinery and who must make
their own chapeaux understand tho
enormous value of a good hat shape
when they see it. The better styles
are rarely offered in untrimmed form,
and to get some of the genuine mil
liner look almost all of the frames
need to be built out, reshaped or
cocked up differently. The high ban
deaux which are employed for lifting
them from the head may bo bought
ready made for 25 cents. But as they
are the simplest crescents " of wired
, buckrams, a similar crescent of paste
hoard, which costs nothing at all, Is
often utilized. '
bow; X-ith this -ni-sliimaju-. .
few examplos may be given of what
can be done with economical means In
these directions.
No. 1. This drossy waist may be
found at the bottom of the drawing
labeled "charming models for copy
ing." (It is of plain cream net, maltesc
lace and azure taffetas. A quality of
cream silk at 35 cents the yard may
form, the lining. Over this Is hung a
blouse of the net, with three-quarter
puff sleeves and an elaborate shirring
at the front, and over the blouse Is a
sleeveless jacket of the lace, with a
tucked collar, sleeve caps and vest of
the azure silk. Simulated buttonholes
and buttons covered with the blue silk
deck the vest.
This waist Is worn with a plain skirt
of pale azure ca,shmere. and the hat
has a blue velvet crown and a plain
blue taffeta brim, under which at the
loft Is hung a wide blue feather.
The very admixture of materials here
used, as well as the fact that they are
all fairly inexpensive, make this get
up very easy to accomplish. It will be
more suited to a girl of slim figure
and fair complexion.
No. 2. One of the decant hral.lrnl .m.i
embroidered etons described Is here dem
onstrated. It is of brocaded silk in splen
did olives and black, worked over in the
way discussed witn dull gold thread and
black silk. A collar of black lynx Is here
used and a stunnlntr lvnx mnn" tarriiA
The skirt may be of olive green or black.
jn mis instance it is oi green cloth, a
wide belt of black satin nlvlnir pliarmlnr-
distinction to the under blouse of white
tucked net and silk.
The hat is made of a plateau of long-
SL'GGESTIOXS FOK NEW AND OLD.
haired beaver which can be bought now.
for 73 cents? with a folded edge of black
velvet and a white osprcy at the side.
For this coat, which requires a slight
interlining for warmth, silk at a dollar
a yard could be used. Five yards would
be necessary and a fancy collar employed
instead of the fur one if desired. A
charming finish at the neck and front of
a little French .coat was a rever collar
of black satin, embroidered in slip stitch
with, flcur de lye, and edged with ruches
of white and tan valendcnncs. An inner
stitch in the embroidery matched this
soft brown.
No. 3. This little get-up is to illustrate
the costume look, which a skirt and
bolcto of cloth and a silk blouse can be
made to effect admirably If they arc well
put together. Here brown cloth In a
cheap quality is used, ten yards being re
quired for the skirt and bolero. FIvc
yards arc needed for the silk waist, which
is of faintly spotted brown taffetas. The
cravat and belt of the coat, which has
tails at the back, are of black velvet.
Other combinations for this dainty little
get-up might he cashmere in any accept-
able shade of blue or green, and a plaid I
waist in which a handsome green might
predominate. A patterned taffeta la much
more effective than a plain one, and the
shops now show $2.50 qualities at 59 cents.
In getting up such a frock the wisest
thing to do would be to buy the waist
first, for the oddness of some of the rem
nants require very careful matching. A
colored silk which show? black to any
extent Is always handsome when com
bined with black.
No. 4. For thio very fetching little
street hat the girl who knows how to
make her own mill inery need expend no
more than ?4 or $30 at the utmost. The
Tarn shape Is made by a big brown plat
eau o'f lons-halred beaver, finished with a
head band of brown velvet. The sole
trimming: is black ostrich feathers placed
at the left. Individual prices for mate
rials for this hat nu- run as follows:
Frame. 23 centi", pieatcau. from 75 cents
to $1.50; velvet. 25 cents, and feathers.
No. 5. A chapeau de luxe this would
be denominated by a French milliner, for
the materials of this hat restrict It to
very dressy, even evening use. It is
made on a net and buckram frame of
gold tissue, white tulle and gold roses.
A ravishing feature of these beautiful
flowers Is a substitution of ordinary
green leaves for the gold ones most mil
liners employ. This bring? the price of
the flowers down considerably and gives
an extra cachet to the hat. Two dollars
and fifty cent? will buy a very beautiful
pair of Imported gold roses, which are
again to be found In quantities. The
green leaves are very cheap 10 cents a
spray, usually and the plain gold tissue
which binds the edge of the hat may bo
found anywhere greatly reduced. The
white tulle or niallnes. which drapes the
top of the hat. is the usual milliner
thing at 29 cents the yard.
In the second drawing, suggestions for
both the new and the old are given, two
hints as to mart and practical garments
which will soon be needed, and two for
the making over of old materials.
No. fi. A street gown of dark blue
cloth, trimmed only with stitching and
collars and cuffs of dim 'green velvet,
edged with a flat gold braid. This gown,
which is definitely premonitory of
Spring, several tailors of reliable reputa
tion agree to furnish out and out for $15.
This, all things considered. Is a small
price. Indeed, for a dashing suit.
No. 7. This very dashing visiting toil
ette is composed of a bodice of gray vel
vet and a skirt of soft gray lalne. The
Immensely high belt Is of black satin and
the lace vest and sleeve ruffles are tinted
a deep saffron.
For the fashioning of a similar toilette
two old gowns could be combined, with
silk or satin, in place of velvet for the
bodice. If the material used is black, the
skirt could be of soft wool in any color,
with perhaps fearhcrs in the same tint
decking the black hat.
No. S. Silk velvet and cashmere com
pose this beautiful gown, which reccntly
appeared at a smart wedding. The colors
In that Instance were shades of rose, ex
quisitely blended; a Swiss ruffle In what
seemed a very coarse quality shaping the
vest ruffle.
To reproduce such a toilette. let it be
HaiYdressing for the Small Daughters Has Become an Art
supposed that a girl has several old even
ing frocks worth dyeing. So If they are
all in light colors or white, the ripped
up pieces may be tinted the same shade,
with wool for the skirt, velvet for the
trimming and silk for the bodice. Again
It is often worth while to buy remnants
of new material and have them redyed.
which is often done by smart dressers,
who wish some scheme otherwise unob
tainable. No. 9. Street coat of pale gray cloth in
advanced Spring model. This coat, which
could be made by any good tailor for $33.
would be an admirable purchase for a
girl who could afford few toilettes. If
made of black cloth, with a matching
skirt. It would achieve a stunning street
get-up. with the added advantage that the
coat could be used In the evening as a
wrap.
In conclusion, a word should be said for
the hats in this drawing. They have been
specially chosen as models for the home
milliner, as all arc made of yard mate
rials over buckram frames. If the cover
ing of the hat Is difficult, any milliner
of modest clientele will do it for 75 cents.
MARY DEAN.
Bangs Again in Vogue for Child With High Forehead;
Care of the Hair and Scalp. '
HAIR dressing for the little girl be
tween the ages of 4 and 14 has be
come an art. Tightly plastered locks
and starched pig-tails belong to the child
of the past. Miss Up-o-Datc. with clear
complexion and rosy ch&eks, has her face
set In the softest frame of fluffy tresses
and her mother" has no small task to
keep them light and glossy.
In the first place the care of'thc hair
itself has developed into a duty of no
small magnitude. When a child's scalp
is healthy, the hair should be washed
once a week with pure castile soap and
luke-warm water. This gives it the loose,
fluffy look that is so essential. The best
and quickest method of shampooing is to
shave a small piece of the soap Into very
hot water and allow It to become thor
oughly dissolved. Temper the water grad
ually until it does not burn the back of
the wrist. Then, with the aid of a soft
nail brush, which Is kept expressly for
the purpose. It Is only a matter of Ave
or ten minutes work for a mother to
cleanse the scalp and hair.
Whatever the age of the .child, this
simple shampoo Is most effectual. Care
should be taken, however, that the hair
and scalp are thoroughly dried, using'
Plenty or dry towels and fanning vigor
ously at the end. To prevent any dan
ger of colds, many mothers wash a
child's head Just before putting her to
bed.
Should the scalp show any signs of
dandruff or if It is naturally dry. re
liable tonic should be applied regularlv
and the weekly shampoo continued as
above. Borax or ammonia should be
diligently avoided In these frequent
washings if the hair Is to be permitted
to grow long and luxuriant, as they dry
out all natural secretions.
As patent as this shampooing process
may seem, it is . unquestionably the se
cret of the extremely pretty hair of the
little girl of today and lays the founda
tion for beautiful silken tresses when she
grows to womanhood.
In the matter of the daily dressing of
the hair, mothers have no end of little
girl coiffeurs from which to choose. For
the child with perfectly straight locks,
the Russian style, cut short and bobbing
around the cars and neck, has long been
a general favorite. Practical and com
fortable as it unquestionably is. the
one objection to It is the extremely
boyish look which it gives.
The latter is relieved somewhat by a
slight pompadour effected by parting the
hair on either side of the head at the
front and tying the Intervening locks at
the left of the head. Or for the very
young child the hair is parted on a per
fectly straight line with the nose. Several
strands on cither side of the forehead
are caught each in a small bunchy bow
of soft ribbon. This style of hair dressing
Is becoming only to a child with rather
low; brow.
The particular cliarm in either of these
rather severe styles, lies in the fresh
ness and brightness of the bow or
bows that set them off. The modern
little girl has to have hair ribbons galore
and a fancy basket kept especially for
' jj
them is the only means by which they
can be preserved witli any kind of
smoothness. Even then they must be
folded over the fingers every time they
are taken off, and the same ribbon should
not be worn oftcner than twice a week.
With constant, handling a ribbon loses
its dressing very quickly. One young
miss, who has a large supply of hair rib
bons, received most of them from her
aunts and uncles on various birthdays
and Christmas day3. She is proud of her
pretty head of hair and even more par
ticular that it shall be prettily arranged
and tied, so whenever questioned as to
what she would like, her answer Is al
ways some special color and kind of hair
ribbon.
, Unless a child's hair has a wiry
stralghtncss. many mothers prefer that
It should be tied or braided loosely and
then pulled out in soft, fluffy curves
around the face. For the little girl who
Is blessed with -curly locks, this coiffure
Is a very simple matter, as the hair falls
naturally Into graceful lines. The new
est and smartest way of fastening the
locks in place Is with a huge bow at
the side of the face. If a child is very
small, while a larger girl has the back
locks held together at the nape of the
neck by a silver gilt ornament In the form
of a snake. This winds In and out among
the hair and holds it tightly in place, so
that stray ends cannot work out easily
and fly In untidy fashion in front of the
eyes. To arrange long, straight hair, how
ever. Is a much more difficult problem,
but the mother who takes pride In her
little girl's appearance solves it by nican.s
of rag curlers at night. Locks of hair
dampened slightly by running them
through a hand which has been dipped
gently in water, are wound securely
around strips of cotton cloth four inche?
in width. Each rag Is tied In a hard
knot around the wad of hair, and when
wornlng comes the tresses have a splen
did wave. Should the hair have a ten
dency of its own to be curly, these waves
are brushed around a curling stick and
made to look like genuine corkscrews.
The child with a very high forehead
should have It concealed by bangs,
which arc again returning to favor.
They are cut with a horseshoe curve
that slopes up on either side. If the
bangs are short, the hair behind tho
crosswise part is puffed up underneath
to relieve a flat look on top of tho
head. If tho head has quite a decided
bump on top. the part is made well
back, thus effecting a very long bang.
A last and important point about
children's hair Is that the very short
locks at the side of tho ears should
be trained to grow up. If a mother is
troubled with their fringing down on
the cheek, they should be soaped in
place each night. In a few months
time they will stay in place of themselves.
How to Dress the Neck Gracefully
THERE is an infinite charm about a
well-shaped neck, and she is a wise
woman who learns how to dress her
throat not only becomingly, but grace
fully as well. The beauty and con
tour of a face can be changed almost
entirely by the outline of the neck,
and when graceless necks fail to yield'
to massago and vigorous exercises.
Miladl, who aspires to be beautiful, has
ribbons and ornaments as a final sav
ing grace.
And a saving sace they are, too, for
they can be made to give quite as tell
ing an effect as a single line In an
otherwise incomplete drawing. Fat
necks can be made to look thin and
short necks long, with a chic little bow
pinned here or a fancy chain hung
there. As an Instance of this, no one
who has eyer seen a picture of Con
auelo Vanderbllt. now Duchess of Marl
borough, has failed to note the band of
soft black tulle which she Invariably
wears about her throat. Delicate and
unusual as is the fashion, it la not
without Ita use as well. Unadorned by
this black tulle, the neck Is long and
thin. With it her slender white throat
Is nothing If not patrician In curve.
On a short neck, tulle bows and bands
have to he applied, with very careful
hand. Just as 'they serve to shorten
a long neck, so they can reduce a
short, chubby neck almost to nothlng-
n v fhmiV nf tiilta at thpi franlr nr
jMaillif tlJ nck axe paly for Blender
throats, while, on the other hand, the
bow of maline fastened directly in
front is becoming only to a woman
with short neck, though she must
wear it well down on the collar bone.
Thin collars boned very high cither
a.t the back or front give a decidedly
choked look to a fat neck. A lace
band of very medium height, with a
scant Valenciennes frill, alone becomes
the clyibby threat. Necklaces or chains
worn with these low bands should en
circle them midway, and have a pen
dant attachment to give a long effect
In front, or they should fall well be
low the collar bone. A slender throat
looks best with an ornament or chain
at the top of the collar.
An ungainly innovation of the past
Summer were the Jeweled stock sup
porters for holding In place delicate
collars on lingerie blouses. However,
they do give the neck a very tidy ap
pearance, and for that reason the wo
man who wears them must be careful
to adjust them slantwise in the lace
or lawn bands, or have thcn come at
a place In the collar where they will
not entirely destroy the naturally
graceful curves of a neck.
The woman who wears a low-cut
bodice has to be even more particular
about the way in which she adorns her
neck. Tho artist says that the line
from the top of the bodice to the chin
should be the same length as from the
chin to the beginning of the- coiffure