Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 31, 1905)
' ' j ' ''j t "j V ''' ' BY CATHARINE ANDERSON'. OU' that the busy woman has learned the value of a tailored suit,, no other way of dressing can be made to seem qulto so practical nor so comfortable 9o after four months of planning elaborate costumes and one piece frocks, there comes' an emphatic call to tho leaders of fashion for waists to complete the all-popular coat and skirt. And the call is answered by a host of dainty, soft creations, beside which even Empire and Princess gowns lose their fascination. Separate waists for the New Year are man-els of intricate beauty and handi work. J.ices heavy and delicate mingle bewildering dosign. Tho loveliest of silks and satins are lost bonoath Inser tions, appliques and myriad stltcherles, while velvets of the most supple texture have thlr inherent splendor almost eclipsed by the exquisitoness of their col ors and patterns. The very smartest waist of the season is that built entirely of lace, and a prac tical revival of several years back is the bodice of all-over Cluny. No other lace has quite the durability of this. With careful handling: it can be laundored an endless number of times and come out looking as fresh as new. To. he really effective and dressy, the lace bodice must be made up over some soft silk or a satin messaline, and In many cases chiffon lining Is employed between these to soften the coarse threads of heavy laces. A charming ox ample of the new models in Cluny is lined in this way. while a semi-fitted lining of liberty satin In oyster white gives It a warm foundation. Wide strips of the late are joined at the shoulder line, the inside strips forming a V-shape at the waistline and thus leaving a V-openlng at the nock. Into the spaces left by the lace are Inserted narrow Mechlin edgings fagoted together in fan-shape, the large part of which gives the fullness at the waistline. Small medallions of baby Irish lace trim the collar and front of the bodice as well as the puffed sleex'es. The- latter also show strips of Cluny lace held together by fagoted Mechlin edging. Dainty, Wholesome Breakfast Dishes Most Important Meal of Day, and the Morning Repast Should Be Served in Tempting Form OEND the family off to business in the morning on a good breakfast." is the advice of a cltv mother tvhnsn grown children are as strong and .rugged 1 booking as if they had been brought up ! country lanes. "It is the most Im portant meal of the day. and if a person's appetite Is not keen for a substantial rnal so early in the morning, the break fast dishes should be prepared In delicate and, tempting guise-' The following are suggestions for dainty breakfast dishes which contain as much nourishment as he heavier foods, without being so diffi cult to digest: Carried Fish Croquettes. Melt one and a half tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan and fry to a golden brown two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onion. Add one desertspoonful of curry powder and one and a half teaspoonfuls of flour. Pour in nearly a cup of boiling water or soup stock and let the sauce boil and thicken. Have ready one pound of white lish .from which the bones and skin have been removed. Divide this into flakes, and add to the curry sauce, together with a little salt and grated nutmeg, and a large teaspoonful of lemon juice. Draw the pan to the side of the stove and let the fish simmer for ten minutes. Beat an egg two or three times with a fork, add it to the fish mixture and, after remov ing the pan from the stove, spread the contents out on a flat dish. As soon as tho fish is cold, take a small quantity at a flirie and roll Into an oval croquette on a floured board. Dip these croquettes in beaten egg and bread crumbs and fry In a wire basket plunged into boiling fat until they are a golden brown. These can be served with or without slices of raw tomato. Codfish Souffle With the fingers pick 'o jdeccs one-half pound of salt cod and wash Urcll in cold water. Now cover with boiling water and allow It to stand for half an hour, when the water should be drained oft and the fish pressed dry. JlaVe ready two cupfuls of cold or warm mashed potato. Beat this with a fork until it i light, and stir in the codfish. Add ono saltspoonful of pepper, the yolks of two cygs, and lastly o"M la tb well- Another practical lace waist which more than rupays for Its Initial expense by the longth of time it can be worn. Ls built of Imitation baby Irish. In Ivory white, an effective afternoon bodice shows a fitted foundation of cream messaline silk, over Which the lace ls laid rather scantily, both front and back. Tucked chiffon Inset with narrow Insertions of Chantllly lace form a collar and vest at the front. Bows of orange velvet In a delicate shade trim the vest below the bust, while a band and bow "knot of the velvet finishes the elbow sleeves and a deep girdle of velvet encircles the waist. Sharing popularity with the all-lace waist ls the seml-fltted bodice of supple liberty satin, in white or very soft color lings For wear with a cinnamon brown suit, a satin blouse showing the faintest blush of rose pink has a simple charm all Its own. Narrow insertions of lace, dyed to match the satin, effect a geo metrical design at the front, and are In tercepted occasionally by medallions of Chantllly lace. The distinctive feature Is beaten whites. Bake in a quick oven until a golden brown. Scalloped Fish. Make some thick white sauce with one cupful of milk, one table spoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of flour. Add to this a sprinkling of chopped parsley and a dusting of cayenne popper. Into this sauce tlr cooked white fish which has been picked in j IHrcvn, xnu mi me mixture into small china cups that have been buttered. Pour a small quantity of melted butter over the top and cover with fine dried bread crumbs that have been .seasoned with celery salt and pepper. Bake in a quick oven until the crumbs are evenly j browned. Deviled Kidneys. Fry half of a small onion in half a tablespoonful of butter for a few minutes. Then add half a tablespoonful of flour, and finally three quarters of a cup of boiling water. As soon as this thickens stir in half a small teaspoonful of mustard, the same quan tity of chill vinegar and half a toaspoon ful of chutney. Strain the sauce and keep hot until required. Skin some kid neys, spilt them In the usual way and take out the cores. Dip into warm butter and dust with flour which has been sea soned with salt, pepper and a little curry powder. Fry the kidneys in hot butter, first on one side and then on the other. Remove from the pan directly they are done and place each on a square of but tered toast. Fill the middle of the kid neys with the prepared sauce. Servo with these rice croquettes, made as follows: Boil half a tcacupful of rice In one cup of milk and one cup of water until the kernels arc thoroughly swelled and soft. While still hot add a piece of butter the sire of a walnut, half a tablespoonful of sugar, one egg well beat en and the juice and grated rind of half a lemon. Mix thoroughly together and set aside to cool. Form into small cro quettes. Dip In egg and breadcrumbs and fry in smoking hot fat. Serve at once Scrambled Eggs and Bacon. Break four eggs into a bowl and beat to a stiff froth. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and add a dessertspoonful of tomato catsup and two tablespoonfuls of cooked bacon which has been cut up finely with a sharp knife Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter In a small saucepan, and as soon as It ls thoroughly hot pour In the prepared egjfs and stir until they begin to thicken. When this takes place, clear away the thickened THE SUNDAY. OREGOXiAtf. PORTLAND. DECEMBER 31, 1905, the sleeve, shirred over the elbow and ter minating in a ruffle of the satin that hangs In a deep point, shaped by medal lions and insertions of lace These ruf fles, which add so much grace to a short sleeve, arc a very noticeable feature of all the mid-Winter blouses. In grllsh effect Is a bodice or Alice blue liberty silk that closes at the back. Across the front In curves, bands of Valenciennes Insertion with edgings to mutch are applied at Intervals below the bust line and add a fullness becoming to a slight figure 1-nrgc medallions of heavier lace, fastened, one below the cen ter of the collar, both front and back, and one on each shoulder, are encircled at the edges by the Valenciennes Insertion and edging, and complete a petal-like yoke. Similar circular medallion trimming adorns the outer breadth of each short sleeve. Still a third 4lberty satin waist is unkiue because of Its bertha, which pro duces W broad and quaintly old-fashioned ' look. A long yoke of heavy and egg from the sides of the pan and stir the mixture for a few seconds more taking care to remove it from the stove when it is creamy. Have ready some small cups which have been lightly buttered and made hot In the oven. Fill the cups with the egg mixture, scatter fried bread crumbs over the top and serve at once Japanese Eggs. Boll six 'eggs for 15 mlH utes and drop Immediately Into cold wa ter. Pour this off and crack each shell before starting to remove the entire shell, though this must be done Immediately afterward. Boll one cup of rice carefully, and when full and flaky drain and heap in the center of a large platter. Cut the eggs through the center into halves and press them down into the rice. Pour over all this one cup of cream sauce made from one cup of milk, one tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of flour. Tomato sauce may be used If desired in stead of the cream sauce. NEW YEAR SHOPPING RULES NOW what you want before you 1 start out to the shops, and what Is the most you can afford to pay for It. Also, it ls better to pay les.i than you had planned, rather than mdre. Never buy a bargain unless it Is some thing you really need or have wanted for a long time. Do not buy anything in a great hurry because you think you may lose It by waiting. You can always find something to take its place that will serve the purpose quite as well. It Is a poor policy to buy one expen sive article and thereby force yourself to go without many little accessories that are necessary. Have whatever you wear In keeping with every other part of your costume and you will never appear shabby. It paj-s to buy expensive materials for the street suit- Evening and houe frocks ser-e their purpose quite as well If made of cheaper good. Cheap gloves arc always aa uuatlsfae tery laves Umiat. In trying on shoes, do not put iaipllcit trust is the salesman. Be quite saticAed " fine lace, deftly blended, fills In the neck. Caught at the center of the front below this, a circular piece of satin has the fullness fastened under large .satin-covered buttons, and then spreads out and Tomato Sauce Strain one cup of canned tomatoes, add one teaspoontul of'lcmon juice, half a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper. Bub together one table spoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of flour and stir in the tomatoes: When these begin to boil, stand over boiling water for ten minutes, strain and serve. Eggs in Cups. Put one tablespoonful of cream sauce In the bottom of each of six small cups. On top of the sauce drop one raw egg. Sprinkle with grated cheese and cover with one mora tablespoonful of cream sauce. Place the half a dozen cups In a pan of boiling water and bake in a moderate oven for five minutes. Serve In the dishes In which they are cooked. Spanish Omelet. Beat six eggs without separating until light. Season with one level teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper and one cup of stewed or canned toma toes. Place one tablespoonful of butter In an omelet pan. and when melted turn In the egg mixture Draw the pan over the hottest part of the fire and shake the pan so that the omelet moves back ward and forward. With a spatula or knife lift the omelet at the edge, allowing the thin portion to run underneath. Con tinue this process until the omelet Is set, and turn at once onto a healed platter. yourself that they are sufficiently long to allow your feet to slip forward a little without hitting against the toe of the shoe, and remember that slices are al ways tighter at home than they were In the store. Do not try to carry colors in your mind's eye. There is but one woman In MOO who can do it. and even with a sample, dif ferent shades must be compared In day light rather than In artificial store light. If a saleswoman' tells you how perfect ly charming you look In a hat. It ls well to keep In, mind that that ls her busi ness, and not purchase against your bet ter judgment. Hold the clasp of your pocketbook with in the palm of your hand. Bags .that dangle from the arm on long chains are a temptation to nimble Angers. Loosen your wraps when you enter a store The shop are apt te. be close and overheated, while the fatigue of shop pi n-g renders you a good subject for cold geraet. Finally, never start out on a stepping toer without fcavtac eala a seed break fast, asd give ywrsetf lime eegli la the mWdte of the fey for & substantial, ottr isMmg lunch. curves gradually to the shoulders, where it is lost In the shoulder seams. Accordion-pleated chiffon edges this bertha, as well as the elbow sleeves. An outcome of the Empire modes is an Tell-Tale of the Latest Feminine Tastes The More Refined a Woman's Tendencies, the More Care She Displays in Choosing Her Handkerchiefs IF ONE feminine accessory speaks more clearly than another of a woman's per sonal tastes It is her handkerchief. This essential square, be it of linen, lace or silk, tells many a tale of tidiness, dainti ness or elegance which more conspicuous parts of the. attire fail to disclose. And the more refined a woman's tendencies, the more care docs she display in choos ing her handkerchiefs. - For this reason the daintiness and ap propriateness of the small sized mou cholr which made Its appearance early In the Fall, have caused It to gain a re markable vogue The old-fashioned ten Inch squares of muslin are being sold out as fast as ' bargain-counter sales will dispose of them, and all the new hand kerchiefs measure not over six or eight Inches at the most. Aside from this welcome decrease In size, sheerness and delicacy of weave and pattern will characterize the moucholr ol 1S0S. Handkerchiefs for ordinary use show very narrow hems, and initials are vers' much less in evidence than they have been for several years. Tiny designs of French handwork adorn one or all of the four corners instead. Dragon files', bees. Autumn leaves, etc., are outlined In almost a thread line by satin stitch, and are embroidered with such exquisite fine ness that they seem almost to be woven into the linen. Fastidious women, however, continue to have a small, plain initial or mono gram embroidered In one corner of each handkerchief. Not a few bachelor maids who pride themselves on their cxcluslve ness In dress order their moucholrs by the dozen semi-annually from England.- These little: articles- are then sent to France to have the initials worked by peasant women, and are finally dispatched to America, where the edges are finished with s narrow border of delicate Arme nian" lace. The handkerchiefs, when de livered In America, are as choice bits of "linen as any woman could wish to own. A pretty fancy for the holiday season in white moucholrs shows the entire; sur face of the linen square sprinkled, with embroidered diets. On others the tiny design is woven Into the lines. butterSle, fleur-de-lis, shamrocks, eta, appearing at Interval of two. Inefcef ever the entire handkerchief InoMe t&e narrow teas. Heavier threads C lUtea intercept these little patterns and give a faefekinabU; lat afternoon blouse of white crepe de chine with very deep girdle of sapphire blue velvet. Falling from the shoulders to the top Qf the girdle are shaped pieces of crepe de chine edged with very wide in tice-work effect. One charming little handkerchief looks for all the world like a piece of dotted swlss sprinkled with miniature iris1, and is most delicate and unusual. Moucholrs with softly, colored borders have retained their vogue in spite of all predictions to the contrary. Silhouette ef fects are the most sought after, and for these all the small flowers In pastel shades are employed to grace the edges of the white muslin squares. Often when no other color appears on a handkerchief an embroidered motif in one corner will inclose a small nouveau .art design In pas tel blue, lavender or gray. The more expensive colored moucholrs NOVELTY IN yr NEW piece of fancywork for the a deft needleworker is the scrap basket or better, the scrapbox. for the latest receptacle for waste bits has but slight resemblance to a "basket- With a foundation of stiff pasteboard, the covering- for these useful hoxes matches I the furnishings of a room for which they are intended. Tapestries, durable denims, flowered cretonnes and heavy silks serve for this purpose, while em broidery In bold designs enhances the unique effect. The most stunning of these novelty boxes, and a very serviceable one as well, is built "In cylindrical shape. The covering; a coars tan crash. Is adorned on one side with a Turkish emblem. Cross-stitch embroidery in Old World blues, reds and brown gives the crash an Oriental appearance, and In addi tion to the. mysterious monogram, out line a geometrical, border two inches deep, around both the top and bottom of the box. In the same high, round shape, an other scrapbox shows a covering; of green denial. An -Egyptian fringe de sign famishes the ornamentation near the upper edge. This is worked in floss silk with brown and green shadings, while pendant motifs that drop from it are embroidered in various Jewel coVer fays, sapphire, ruby., emerald, etc. Strip f brown leather Wmi the upper ami lower; ee of the box,- and a sertions of embroidered net and dotted with tiny rosettes of sapphire velvet having a rhincstone button at the center of each. A deep pointed vest of net dis plays tabs of velvet with rosettes at the center. The drooping puffed elbow .sleeves arc similarly trimmed. Amonff a number of charming black waists which never fall to And favor with the girl of blonde hair is a full baby bodice of accordion pleated motts sellne" de sole. A deep circular yoke of ivory satin spangled In roses with jet paillettes forms the only trimming, aside from a band of the same jetted satin that terminates the puffed sleeve. A fancy of the up-to-date girl is to wear dainty scarfs with the more elab orate of the afternoon waists, which, have transparent yokes. The scarfs have a, fairy loveliness both in color and in diaphanous weave. One artistic drapery of, this sort comprised a scarf of white net edged with artificial rose petals, four rows of which were applied to the under fold of the ret. All sorts of picturesque ef fects ari obtained by the various way3 In which these delicate shawls are. thrown over the shoulders or allowed to drop about the arms. There is. however, a word to be said for the plain shirtwaist. It has by no means lost its vogue, and in the new chiffon velvets and wonderfully pattern ed French flannels, separate bodices In severe cuts are very much worn as a thoroughly practical garment. Their per fect fit is most essential. Stocks for wear with these should be decidedly tailor made, with stiff bows and embroideretl linen turnovers. Girdles are very deep, hence there Is but little fulness in tho front of the waist, and any blouse effect has entirely disappeared. Sleeves are mannish shirt sleeves, and fasten with two large pearl buttons. display Irregular borders formed by flow ers In pastel shades of muslin closely button-holed around the outer petals. In mercerized cotton these odd effect-1 show to particularly good advantage. Tho rage for color schemes makes them, ex ceptionally modish just now. and wpmen. as well as men. consider them essential to a smart get-up. Genuine silk hand kerchiefs, which are. used for mufflers, are woven in all the Wonderfully subtla colorings of the season. Many are fin ished with hems of a contrasting shade, and one little gem with a center of roso pink silk has the cream-white border beautified by tiny rosebuds embroidered In silk floss to match the center. SCRAP BOXES heavy piece of leather also forms a substantial bottom. Stout brown paper, showing a brilliant smooth finish, lines the interior and finishes a receptacle that is worthy to grace the most hand somely furnished room. The more elegant of these scrapboxes are covered with moire silk to, match delicate colorings of boudoir fittings, pale blue rose or lavender moire in a long, wide strip is embroidered with, peony or iris bloom In crinkled split silk showing pastel colorings. Only ono of the single blossoms Is employed, but sprinkled In among them, leaves and tiny flowers of Louis embroidery worked in narrow pastel ribhons ren der such a covering a rare piece of hand work. The moire, stretched tightly over a square foundation of pasteboard, has the raw edges concealed beneath a bluo and pink gimn run with threads, of gold. While a box of this sort is most elaborate and suitable only for an ex quisitely decorated boudoir, it , Another hand-maae scrap box whleli deserves to be mentioned with the new embroidered ones. Is built of heavy cream paper laid in regular narrow folds, like accordion pleating. The paper is then fastened in trumpet shape, that is. flaring out at the top. to a circular pasteboard bottom. A dull gold gimp finishes either edge' of tho paper 'awl forms a scroll-work effect around a tap estry or haad-painted medallion, ihat is fastened on at the middle of one. sWe. These medallions, showing quaint, M-. f as 1 toned pictures, can be bought ready for use at vany fancy-work" counter.