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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 8, 1905)
THIS SUA'UAX OKEGOiNlAX, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 8, 1905 45 PARISIAN TOUCHES IN THE FALL WARDROBES TUNIC EFFECT HAS TAKEN THE FEMININE WORLD BY STORM GOWNS IX MODISH TARTANS. THE interlude In fashion-making Is about over, and the smart things which set off show windows no longer arc advertised as for the "trade." In the garments and fabrics which re place the earlier displays are seen the gems of the Fall opening.moired and, plain stuffs, which look dellclously antiquated, rubbing elbows with the novelties dis tinctly twentieth century. In general effect the lines of garments are not greatly changed, skirts remain ing the two lengths of the Summer, and bodices continuing the look of coquetry which the fussy short sleeves and dainty vest effects give. But there are new "touches" without number, and perhaps the most important of these Is the revival of the draped skirt. Many tunic effects are observed and some are so suggestive of the old time overskirt as to need the merest looping of the sides to be one. The model of one consists of a gored lin ing, finished with a shaped flounce, and hung with a round tunic of circular cut. The tunic fits at the back without pleats and the bottom, which may be hemmed or trimmed, reaches to the top of the flounce. The effect of. the skirt, therefore, is that of a double flounce, and the model is In two lengths, one trained, the other quite short Other skirts are draped only at the sides, with a shaped flounce, maybe, fin ishing the drop there, and the skirt fall ing voluminously all around. In fact there are few skirt models which show a medium course. They are either short enough to display In Its entirety the most dapper footwear or else the fall upon the floor is exaggeratedly long. Hap pily, American women have learned at last the proper handling of such petti coats. In Paris, no matter how long the skirt, it Is never lifted in the street, trail ing flounces swimming across sidewalks with a delicious unconcern. Only one thing is considered the sun must shine when such folderols are worn. Another quite important feature of the new styles is tho empire coat for tailor gowns. Made of plain satin cloth,, strapped or plainly stitched, or of English or Scotch tweeds, such empire coat frocks are very dashing, though the style seems more to suit plain cloth and velvet than the less elegant materials. The skirts of the long coat are very full,, but no mat ter how solid the texture of the gown," the sleeves follow the prevailing elbow cuts. These short sleeves, a well-known French maker of styles gives out, ""are so elegant and graceful that they must necessarily distinguish the smartest Win ter costumes. When they are Anally re placed, it may be for the long wrinkled Theodora sleeve, which Bernhardt mads fashionable. We use the Theodora contin ually for tea gowns and all sorts of graceful house toilettes." In textures, moire corduroy Is a novel material, which presents a ploasing silki ness to the eye, and in soft shades of brown It Is beautifully effective with sable and mink furs. These skins, by the way, with a revival of chinchilla. In combination with splendid laces for eve ning use. are again to be the Winter favorites, and since muffs are enor mously big, and a number of the boas prodigiously long. It naturally follows that furs will be dear. Chinchilla skins are especially scarce, and only those which show the velvety markings are approved. With some of the smaller made-up sets there is again a tondency to employ milliner trimmings lace falls, ribbon ruches, rosettes, etc with the ends of the neckpiece treated with a fussy grace of ribbon. Many of the long boas finish with a single great tail, a rosette of lace and an artificial rose showing In some cases at the left bust. Such boas will' again be worn to a great extent around the shoulders, man tilla fashion. A deep fall of black lace over white distinguished tho shoulder portion of a splendid, boa In silver. -Sox, the fronts of which had quite a man tilla grace, crossing-at the waist, where black and white rosettes were placed. Dressmakers' use of broadtail this Fall is quite remarkable. This tender and silky skin, which Is as expensive as it is delicate, is extravagantly employed for elaborate wraps and even whole gowns. One wonderful French costume seen had WEWC0AT3 AND DRAPED OVNS NEW COATS AND D RATED GOWNS. a silk drop hung with two deep flounces of the broadtail, the top one achieving the effect of a iunlc The jacket was a fancy bolero over a rich whlto lace blouse, the waist finishing with a deep girdle of apple green silk and chiffon. The lining of the skirt flounces was also in this rich green, each flounce being finished at the Inside with pipings of the chiffon. At the front of the charming little Jacket were placed rosette ornaments, built over tho old-fashioned wooden button molds, covered and niched with green silk. These In turn were set In a nest of white lace. . But,, notwithstanding the elaborate sound of all this, the effect of the little toilette was one of delightful simplicity. A price by no means simple, however, was asked for It something near a thou sand dollars! So, for the greater part"bf the feminine world, the report Is worth onlythe sat isfaction of knowing what fashion Is do ing with this precious skin, which without lace and color has an elderly air. "Count less "old lady" wraps are seen of broad tail, many of which are In the dolman forms of last season, with modifications and improvements to suit the moment. Another caprice of the stylish dress maker Is a rooted objection to the, con ventional forms qf The ready-made trim mings which come by the yard. The gal loons and gimps of the shops are cut up and worked over in a way to seem scarcely recognizable and any hand-made garniture which may be evolved from narrow ribbons and velvets Is preferred to the machine-made things. A little band trimming on a gown ot plaid moire poplin in beautiful shades of violet .gave acharming'and Inexpensive hint, for home -dressmaking. It was made of graduated -widths of ribbon velvet. In the three shades of violet, the velvets put one on top of the other, so that the shadings came at the bottom line. Bright and pale violet, fashion authori ties declare, will be much used this Win ter in relieving touches. A sort of crude young salad green will also be employed with widely dissimilar colors, as well as cerise, orange and the softer Oriental tints. The shade In cerise which seems to have found favor with the manufac turers very nearly approaches the old magenta. In thin millinery velvet, this color may trim a brown hat. the velvet shirred In elaborate crown puffs, and into cachepeigne flounces and deckings. One bit of millinery In the two colors bad a cerise velvet crown and brown felt brim, which turned up sharply at one side, where a vast brown owl head and wings were placed. The use of materials by the yard for millinery purposes" Is growing. Some vel vet models show a compfete tucking or shirring over cords, the trimming being to a great extent made up of wide, fringy ostrich feathers. Such evening shapes as are solidly covered by pale moire silks are made superb with these fringing plumes, which. In exquisite and unusual colors, hang as far down and as delicately at the back of a hat as a lace or chif fon drop. A "tall" of some sort. In fact, is the newest feature in millinery, and a beautifully draped veil of chiffon or lace shapes it as often as anything else. In the accompanying drawings are shown some of the effects' discussed. The larger picture displays the back and front of an Empire coat costume, and an afternoon dress with a draped skirt. The coat gown Is of pale olive satin cloth, with black taffeta collars and cuffs edged with a gilt galloon. Embroidery in rich and varied hues shapes the little vest pieces, and the enormously high belt wurn with the white muslin bodice Is of folded black taffeta. The hat Is of wedgewood blue felt with an olive feather and huge pink rose. Violet cloth is the material of the draped gown, which with one figure Is worn with a hat of olive felt with purple roses and olive and purple feathers. A very new model Is shown by the little bolero which is shirred at the back, and which hangs short enough to display the deep violet velvet belt all round. The game velvet forms the vest and directolre collar and cuffs of the bolero, with soutache braid for further ornament. The second picture gives some modest walking frocks In the new tartan stuffs. The Eton dress Is In shades of green, trimmed with a tartan braid In cerise blue3 and greens. The bolt and jacket facings are of green velvet, and the hat Us of violet felt braid, with eerlse trim mings. Beautiful shades of dark blue and green distinguish the next frock, which Is of English homespun. The smart little Nor folk coat, with lt3 brown velvet belt and collar, is m a mouej lately expiouea as a. Jaunty loose effect suitable for young matrons. Plain white cloth shapes the cuffs and edges the collar. The hat flowers and all is In a single rich scheme of purple. As may be gathered from these de scriptions, hats which contrast sharply from the color of gowns will be one fea ture of the Winter styles. Cashmere and merino, too, are charm ing old materials which are to have a vogue. Already word comes from Paris that some of the flrst evening wraps are being made of these gracefully hanging stuffs, which arc lined with silks and satins as soft as themselves. One man telette was described as being of Ivory cashmere, with borders of swansdown, set in thick quillings of tulle. Tulle, the smart modistes say. is to trim everything. MARY DEAN. Cozy Coverings for the Cold Winter Nights New Beauties of the Down. Quilt; Bed Ijinen Now Shows French Embroidery. THE advance of cold nights already necessitates the consideration of warm coverings for the bed. Feather beds and woolen sheets have never had a place In the city household, but even In country homes their use no longer is thought essential, except in the north ernmost provinces. Cozy comfortables and blankets are mucn more practical, for our changeable climate, and they certainly are much more attractive to the housekeeper with an eye to the beautiful. Down comfortables, especially, ' offer no end of variety both In price and artistic effect. Dealers have brought these delightfully warm coverings of feathery lightness within tho reach of the most modest purse. Printed sllka lines in the daintiest patterns and col orings vie with costly silks and satins to glvo the huge squares of tufted down a festive appearance, and are quite as serviceable for the economical house wife. If a comfortable neltner of silkallne, nor yet entirely of silk, is desirable, .tho upper side will be of silk, with edg ings of satin, while a soft percaline, or near silk, of exactly the same color will line the under side. Huge flower de signs adorn the' newest coverings, both in silk and cotton, and show much the same patterns displayed in wall papers. Fantastic nouveau art designs of water lilies or lotus flowers are particularly popular, and one quaint old-fashlohed pattern has wild roses of pink ming ling with festoons of blue ribbon. Col orings aro seldom brilliant, and if pos sible match the principal tint of a bed room. For holding these comfortables, as well as extra pIUws, during the daytime, a new chiffonier Is built with a deep chest at the top above several drawers. Almost a rival of the down comfort able this Fall is the silky slumber robe. It is extremely supple, and when only a light extra covering Is required, it Is decidedly less clumsy to handle than. me yown quilt. A glossy rur.-llkc fin ish causes them to resemble closely a genuine silk blanket, and their deep rich colorings allow of their being In uso during tho daytime on couch cr chair. , Blankets for constant use on the bed gain each year In softness and fleecl ness, and the manufacturers have add ed it touch of loveliness this Fall in bindings for the edges of unusually wide ribbon. Even the ordinary Cali fornia blankets show this wide ribbon finish in delicate pink, blue cr lavea der. to match tho stripes that border them. But it is on the exquisite single blankets of wool that the wide silk or satin ribbon gives a finish of simple elegance. These broad coverlets are woven In palest colorings contrasting with whlto to show scroll or checker board designs. Finished with a double face, the blanket has a directly con-' trary. weave on the upper and under side. For instance, a white ground with baby blue scrolls will bo a blue ground with white scrolls on the under side, and white and blue liberty silk ribbon will finish either end. Of all seasons of the year this Is the best In which to buy bed linen, for Its newness renders it warm, and by the time Summer, comes -it will be washed fairly thin for use on hot nights. In bed linen, also, thero Is an Innovation thi-j FalL Handwork, which plays such a part In fashion's realm, is also employed on sheets and pillow cases. Very simple designs of violets or star flowers In French embroidery orna ment the linen or cotton just above the plain deep hems. Fine Hamburg Is also used to sot off bed linen, being inserted above the hem. and quite a new wrinkle Is a line of narrow, triple tucks outlining the head of the hem. Less elaborate "linen shows pretty hemstitching and can be purchased al most as cheaply as plain sheets and pillow cases. White Marseilles and honeycomb bedspreads are keeping pace with the renaissance lace and net coverlets, which have had such a long vogue. The former now show huge rings of flowers in soft colors, and a design of the same adorns the center. Printed pique bedspreads arc also adorned with daintily colored patterns. To prevent these pretty' coverings fron soillng-qulckly, they are removed at night and a thin, almost transparent muslin sheet substituted to protect dainty wool blankets. He 3Iay Kepcnt. , New York Globe. Mr. Bryan assumes a tremendous, re sponsibility by leaving the country for a year to Its fate, and he may be com pelled to repent In sackcloth and ashes that he permitted his curiosity to be hold strange lands and people to lure him from his place on the watchtower. It is not recorded that either of the Gracchi left Home while the crisis was still on. k riusrARiNG rox night. Rudeness in American Homes S'POSE you fink yo'u know It all 1 'cause you's a man," walled the wee maid in pink chambray to her sailor-suited brother, as they played at housekeeping In a shady corner of the porch. He of the sailor suit slammed a top cup viciously on the tissue paper table cloth and announced: "Well, all wom ens know Is to spend the money we men earn." ."Bless my soul, what are you two talk ing about?" Inquired the pretty young woman who had come to call on their mother. "Oh, we're playing keep house. She's mamma and I'm papa." Tho guest laughed gaily, but their mother, who had Just stepped out on the porch, blushed furiously and began to talk about the weather. "Oh, say, quit it," said a youth who had Just reached the Smart Aleck age to his mother, who was reproving him for smoking cigarettes. " You're about 30 years behind tho times, you know a regular fogy." "What do you mean, sir, by speaking to your mothecllko that!" roared his father, who had just stepped Into the room. "Well, that's what you said to her last night when she jumped onto you about Joining the ward club,'k was tho boy's sullen reply. "Go to your room, sir," shouted his father, with face purpling, "and don't come out ot it again this evening." Then, as the lad slouched from the room, ho continued: "A nice lot the children of today are. I never would have spoken to my par ents like that" "Perhaps your father never called your mother an old fogy, or, worse still, a fool, before his children," said hi3 wife quietly, as she gathered up her sewing and left him to the empty sitting-room and his thoughts. Children forget precepts, but follow ex amples. The most beautiful Illuminated motto, "Home, Sweet Home," hung on the walls will not leaven perpetual nagging and harshness of speech in the family circle The man who buries himself In tho newspaper morning after morning at tho breakfast table will not lay aside that paper when his son's fiancee arrives for a visit or his daughter 13 entertaining her chum from college. The lad who is not taught to .sjraw out a dining-room chair for his sister or mother will hardly, think to do so when the family entertains some guest to whom they desire to show spe cial, honors. A ten-minute coaching In table manners given just before some particularly eligible gueflj. arrives will not undo the mischief of careless eating when the family Is alone. Americans rather prido themselves on their bluntness, which by courtesy they call simplicity and honesty. They speak with scorn of the suave but Insincere Frenchman and the demure but not guileless English debutante. But, after aiL la bluntness or brusqueness, under the name of honesty, really worth while? Wouldn't It be Just as well If mothers today Inculcated polltness In the family circle along with sincerity and honesty? And could not the growing boy be taught that time spent In being polite Is not actually -wasted? Is It the greI for gold or Just lack of training in th family circles that makes the rising gen eration of Americans so rude? Up-to-Date Button Trimmings THE good old-fashioned purpose ot the button that Is, the utilitarian duty of fastening garments has disappeared this season in the mazo of modes in which It appears as trimming. From tho Kato Grecnaway clothes of little Miss Four-Year-Old to the demure dresses of her picturesque, grandmamma. It forms tho principal garniture, but its novelty this season lies In the manner In which It 1$ applied rather than in Its own brllllans or unique beauty. On children's clothes especially tha but ton appears in most unusual ways. Ona llttlo garment Is characterized by huga discs covered with black satin ornament ing bands of white broadcloth. These bands of black buttons extend abound th neck and wrists, while one long band holds in the fullness at tho back ot tha bobbing knee jacket close to the edge. For an older girl a one-piece school dress has the square yoke and front box plait outlined with round button molds, covered to match the principal color hi the gay-hued plaid. Similar buttons finish the waist belt, and a line of buttons on a stitched strap trims the sleeves from wrist to elbow. Lapels both on long and short coats fasten back with simulated or real but tonholes on rows of pearl or cloth discs which extend from the neck to tho bot tom of the skirt. "Vests of plaid or striped goods gain a double-breasted effect from tvo rows of enameled buttons, which match tho material of the coat. If the coat is of mixed goods, buttons covered with the same will ornament a plain vest. Each pocket, too, must have at least one button garniture, while tha edge of a collar is often encircled with small discs met by cross straps of braid. A triumph of the tailor's art was a cloth suit with two-inch straps of braid ending In flat, round molds covered with cloth of the- same color. These were ap pllqued at short Intervals around the en tire front and postilion back. a3 well as the cuffs of. the sleeves. On the skirt three row3 of four-Inch straps ending In buttons, each separated by an Inch, formed the heading of a deep hem with stunning and unique effect. Simulated oversklrts or panels have cloth-covered buttons fastening their edges over tho lower flounce or ruffle, the appearance of a buttonhole being effected by short loops of narrow braid. Evening frocks aro no less favored than tailored-looking costumes. Rhinestones and Imitation buttons follow some vine or scroll design In lace meshes and give tha effect of jeweled lace. Delicately hand painted discs hold sleeves in pretty pufto. Ik