THE SUNDAY OBEGOIS1A2Sr, PORTIAKD, OCTOBER 1, 1905.
2:
43
I SUMPTUOUS ATTIRE FOR EVENING WEAR I SZXZS&S? I
l I "
THE growing habit or dining, as
the French call It, cn vlllo in
public restaurants, hotels, etc.
makes the smart, high-necked dinner
dress quite a modern necessity. And
since the theater generally follows a
gay dinner away from home, the cos
tumes mado for this purpose have much
of the light toning and gay essence of
playhouse wear.
New modes call still for the palest
evening tones or else black, -and while
white lace is pre-eminently the fine ma
terial, and Is to be employed In vast
quantities, it will to a great extent be
blended with other textures. There are
all lace skirts and all lace coats or bed
Ices, but the gown entirely of laco
seems to achieve, somehow, only a look
of clumsiness. Two sorts or more, with
the addition sometimes of several spe
cies of net, are likewise sometimes em
ployed to give the lace garment a look
rtf grace and lightness. Especiallj is
this done with bodices, whose vests and
undersleeves need to be very airy; but
the lace skirt may only show additional
little ruches of net or tulle, or applica
tions of silk cloth or velvet.
Applications of thin cloth upon a rich
lace background make a novel and ef
fective treatment which will be em
ployed for toilettes of a specially
dressy nature. The skirt of such a
gown jnay be made of the lace, and the
entire Jacket of the clolh, and if silk
is used Instead of the cloth the color
ing may be delicately toned, or else in
a most vivid shade.
One gown In this last combination
for dinner and theater wear, and of
remarkable beauty, had a lace skirt In
deep cream, and a Jacket and skirt ap
plication of chiffon taffotas in a superb
blue.
The newest shades in blue are of
great brilliancy, those bordering on
the peacock tones, setting off -whites
and creams with magnificent effect,
and such enameled buttons or girdle
ornaments as are used repeat these
splendid colors!
In fact, coloring is to. play a subtle
part with late- Autumn and "Winter
modes, or the blending of very opposlto
colors will be one feature, and much
will depend upon the right tones -used.
This treatment of colors will Teplace
tie shaded effects, which have Tolgncd
for a season or more, soft shades of
brown going with violet, pale pinks
with 'gray mauves and yellow with
brownish grays.
Returning to lace gowns In their en
tirety, a novelty in the field Is domes
tic hand-crochet, which. In coarse
white and cream cottons, shapes entire
gowns. The old-fashioned "tidy" look
of these seems odd in these days of
over-sophistication, for the great stiff
old roses and split shells and button
hole rings of the tidy are seen, as well
as the commonest and plainest crochet
stitches. Nevertheless, this modest
medium evolves models of remarkable
pretension tho skirts, some of which
are made with flounces, following tho
elaborate cuts of the day, and the
humble needle doing. Wonders In shap
ing short and longish jackets.
To obtain lightness, the best of these
gowns are lined with thin lawn, and if
the crochet pattern is very open, chif
fon is put over the lawn. But at Its
best the hand crochet of the country
can never have an extended vogue, for
the lace part of such garments has
none of the subtlety of tho Irish thing.
Notwithstanding, smart makers are
giving gowns in this a place in their
showrooms.
Two dinner and theater gowns illus
trated show In one an elaborate uso of
lace, and in both smart coat cuts. The
first has a skirt of mauve chiffon and
taffeta heavily embroidered and appli
qued with lace in samo color. The
oddly shaped Jacket is of mauve panne.
lined with silk In the same tono and
with 'a neavy silk fringe finishing tho
ends at the hips and back- White chif
fon taffeta forms the waistcoat, with
pure white laco for tho chemisette and
sleeve frills. The hat is of pale mauve
felt, with white chrysanthemums and
deep purple velvet loops. Long gloves
of mauve suede are worn with this
gown.
The second costume is of embroi
dered and plain taffetas in the new
blue. Chiffon velvet forms a very dec
orative garniture, and while a heavy
embroidery trims the silk waistcoat,
tho chemisette, which has a ladder of
prim little blue, bows. Is of plain white
mull. The sleeve frills are of the samo
with a narrow blue ribbon edge.
The thinner and less expensive quali
ties of cloth will be much used for
these high "Winter evening dresses In
the various shades of white and in tho
delicate flower tones. Velvet will also
be seen again, but only In the supplest
qualities, and In rare dim, green,
mauve, gray, blue and black, it will
shape toilettes of a very picturesque
quality. Black is likely to be much
Been, and. since color and white have
for seasons been so much to the front,
dressmakers predict for all black cos
tumes quite an extended vogue.
Tho slightly decollcto evening gown
which Is accompanied by a hat will also
be worn, and If the growing shortness
of sleovos is any Indication of future pros
pect, one may expect at no very distant
period some degree of decollotnge for all
evening gowns. Even tho majority of the
high ones arc only so in name, for guimpes
aro almost entirely trans parents the film
of chiffon which backstbe beautiful laces
never .affording much solidity.
The ensemble of all of these outdoor
evening gowns is one of extreme coquetry.
The short fus5T sleeves'and" dainty finish
of the necks and fronts of bodices glve
all the smart frocks quite a party air,
while the present limp fall of skirts adds
a notch every -tlraefto grac. .
Evening" half wllf bir "rich In coloring
and splendid with ostrich feathers, while
thin silks and velvets will be'employed to
produce many novel effects. Several be
wildering hats seen depended, .In fact, en
tirely upon the manner in which yard ma
terials were shirred and tucked-with their
dashing ale One hat of marked plctu
rcsqueness was of gray white felt, with
a deep shirred flounce of black velvet
forming the under trimming at the back.
Tho shape also turned smartly up at the
left front and against this lift were
placed two huge .round buckles of the
shirred velvet, the stem of a wide, black
ostrich feather holding the two and the
plume Itself dancing in the air.
More than gorgeousness of trimming is
this subtle hand manipulation of .stuffs
observed with flno' headgear,. so that a hat
overcrowded with the usual inllllnery gew
gaws is at a discount beside such sorts.
Upon white felts many shades of pale
pink and rose velvet are employed with
beautiful effect, andlf several shades aro
used upon one hat, the feathers may like
wise be ombre d.
The Summer trick of a laco or chiffon
drop at the back is also carried over in
some scattered Instances,, these fluttering
tails providing a very softening quality to
shapes which might otherwise seem too
small and angular. But for the matter
of that, the heavy underdecking of all
hats continues to be the point invariably
most In evidence.
In direct, contrast to the elaborate qual
ity of outdoor evening wear, some of tho
little dinner and dance frocks are of a
surpassing simplicity. Many very modest
textures aro also used for these, quantl.
ties of tho little patterned silks and flow
ered muslins employed being of quite an
Inexpensive eort. and ribbon and silk vel
vets shaping trimmings In many pretty
forms. A point with quite the lowest
gown Is that the sleeves are very nearly
If not entirely elbow length, and this cut,
with the long .gloves worn, has a special
glrllshness.
In fact, the look the modern woman as
pires to Is csscsntlally youthful, tho re
straining quality of the best-made gowns
accpmpllshlng this, as well as tho sllm
ness madamc must acquire to appear well
dressed. Three pretty Httlo evening
gowns display the prevailing simplicities.
In modish Autumn and Winter materials.
A very girlish dres3 of pink embroidered
moussellno is effectively decked with plain
pink taffeta ribbon, put on the bodice in
suspenders and upon the skirt In long
pieces finished with. bows.
The second gown is of white chiffon taf
feta with French lace and imperial blue
velvet, and the third costumo is a box
robe frock of spangled and embroidered
white net. Green chiffon-taffeta shapes
tho high belt of this, the samo color ap
pearing In tho embroideries upon the
skirt.
Gloves lit suede to match the color of
the gown will continue a point for- "Winter
evening dress. The enormous length of
some of the now gloves also indicates the
excessive dccolletage which some of tha
bodices will show, for a number of tha
opera and ball gowns will barely be held
upon the Bhoulders with the narrowest
wisps of trimming.
Spangles and gilt embroideries will bo
employed upon tho more elaborate even
ing confections, whose traceries will take
many novel forms. One marvelously
beautiful gown seen, however, was of
great simplicity, pearl-white tulle run with
a gilt thread being the material used. The
skirt, which trained slightly, was made
with an enormously deep hem, above
which went 15 rows of tho delicate gilt
threading. A little ruche hemmed with
the gilt trimmed the neck of tho tiny
little baby body, which was held oyer
each shoulder by three bands of gilt
braid; the deep skeleton girdle was also
gilt braid, and gilt slippers and a wreath
of gilt wheat ears were matchless ac
cessories. The opera and theater evening wraps
the smart world Is considering are of
exaggerated looseness and fancy capes,
with novel sleeves In tho folds, are much
moro to the fore than -coats. The coat
models likewise strive for as much width
as possible, the empire models showing
very wide skirts, which may be deckel
almost as elaborately as dress skirts.
"With lace, satin and velvet and cloth in
white and pale tones, ermlno and whlto
fox fur Is used in limited quantities, gen
erally In the form of a.- collar or stolo
and In cuff bands.
One wonderful wrap of bandana yellow
satin, shirred at the shoulders and at tho
bottoms of tho wldo sleeves, had a fichu
drapery and undersleeves of. whlto span
gled net.
Plain cloth In rich, pinks, grays, sreens,
azure and all tho shades of white Is a
popular texture, the newer cloths show
ing a little suggestion of woollness.
The satin smooth ones, however, aro
still In great demand, and ono very In
expensive revival for this la the old-fashioned
pinking for new edges.
"Tho new pinking, 'however." writes a
French correspondent, "is all points -saw's
tejjth.' as the sewing folk them
selves put the sort used."
MARY DEAN.
Brilliant Combs for Fall Coiffures
UNQUESTIONABLY the girl of the
present day arranges her own hair
more artistically and becomingly
than any of her sisters of past decades.
She has mastered the art of picturesque
hair - dressing and she has attained this
coveted end not by the aid of a hairdress
er. The once insignificant and despised
side comb is the medium to her success.
It accomplishes for the up-to-date girl
what only an expert coiffure has been
able to effect previously. "With it, no
matter how unwieldy her hair, she shapes
the locks into, a fairy frame for her face,
and- a meaningless mass of hair becomes
a cap of crowning glory.
But the side comb is no longer by any
means Insignificant. It has taken unto it
self various forms, and Its glittering em
bellishments rank It as a member of tho
Jewel-box family.. The season's minia
ture hats bring It into particular prom
inence this Fall and Mlladl must look
well to the crescent or circle of shell or
brilliant stones which adorns the back
of her coiffure.
"When simple side combs of shell are
worn they must match as closely as pos
sible, the color of tho hair. For the blonde
there come many shades of amber with
a shell of palest hue for flaxen or gray
locks. Rich brown tortoise colorings are
for dark ialr, and Jet side combs and or
naments stand out like polished gems
among auburn tresses.
In shape the newest importations are
larger than ever before and side combs
are unusually long. All, however, are
straight, the curved comb having proved
thoroughly impractical. For tho back of
the coiffure the deep, old-fashioned comb
will-be very much in evidence tnis "Winter.
It is, however, the fancy comb both for
the sides and back of the hair which has
won the affections of the up-to-date girl.
Cut steel is to bo quite the smart thing,
and wide bands of this shiny gray metal
rest in a semi-circle at tho back of the
head, giving no evidence of the shell
ccmbs which hold them in place. In fact,
this is a feature of all the newest jew
eled combs. They form merely an In
visible support for brilliant stones or
gold and silver filigrees, which have the
appearance of being pinned lightly in tha
hair or of effecting a Grecian bandeau. -
Both, straight and winding bars of gold
adorn the tops of side and back combs.
The -newest gold bands are from half to
two-thirds of an inch In width and many
of them show a girl's monogram very
delicately chased at the center of each
band.
Another popular comb is edged with
a band of Jewels. Tiny rhlnestones have
served In this capacity for several years.
This season large rhlnestones will alter
nate "with imitation sapphires, rubles,
etc, cut In similar shape and size.' The
stones are -not set against the shell as
formerly, but rest in ring sockets so that
light penetrating them from behind gives
an added brilliance.
Email-size rhlnestones outline diminu
tive birds in flight, Egyptian scarab or
MeTcury wings. These are attached to
combs or three-pronged shell pins by tiny
hinges.
Large single gems .are set alone in the
center of a wide band of gold" or silver
filigree. Especially handsome is a pale
sapphire almost an inch square held In
position by a delicate winding of rhlnestones.
Huge cat's eyes of coral or jade also
adorn gold or silver bars. Very quaint Is
a curving band of hammered gold at the
head of a deep back comb. Three tiny
pinkish cameos are sot into the bar and
effect an exceptionally artistic hair orna
ment. A fad of the season arc the balls or but
terflies of Jet or tortoise shell for stick
ing in around the coiffure -In the fashion
of Japanese women. These are attached
to large hairpins or bars of shell. The
shell barctto which keeps refractory
scolding locks In placo, has likewise be
come a Jeweled accesssory and matches
the side and back combs in Its ornamentation.
As Tilings Go.
Mother (to( small boy) Darling, I wish
you would try to eat a little more.
Darling You should never press chil
dren to eat, mother. I read that in a
book called "Hints to Parents." London
Punch. ' l
NEW COIFFCKE COXKS-
New Dress Trimmings
CONTRAST sounds tho keynote In tha
symphony of "Winter trimmings. A
thousand harmonics of hand-embroidery,
appllquo and machlne-mada
braids and bindings, which simulate hand
work, will set off tho rich-tone housa and
street gowns for 1905-1D06.
The fad for English eyelet work, which
raged so furiously on Summer linens, re
appears In both broadcloth and silk trim
mings. "Whero somber hems once finished j
broadcloth skirts and coats, tho more
festive scallop ln.self-tone or a direct con-
trast, is the "Winter's approved finish,
ahd If Inside each scallop appears a bit
of the eyelet work, the gown has the
final touch of smartness.
The puffy bouillons which made last
season's "Winter raiment so bunglosome
havo given place almost entirely In wool
fabrics to the broderle Anglais bands,
and many of the box patterns In popular
tones of broadcloth show machine eyelet
work which defies all but the export in
Dame Fashion's decrees.
. Jeweled effects, decidedly reminiscent
of altar cloths, aro frequently introduced
Into this handwork on cloth costumes,
and they are particularly striking when
done on the rich purple and plum shad
ings which arc features of the season.
In applique, self-tono velvet set off by
embroidered designs interweaving colored
silks and soutache braids will bo used.
For Instance, a long box coat in a pecu
liar rich shade of tan, will havo collar,
cuffs and pockot flaps of a deeper brown
velvet set off by fleur-de-lis or military
ornaments In gold bullion.
But It is In tho broadcloth appliques
upon broadcloth that tho wondrously har
monious contrasts are shown. As an ex
ample of this, & brown cloth suit will
havo a deep trimming of harmonious
green broadcloth appliques, held In place
by handwork of bronze silk which shades
alternately Into the green and the brown.
Odd browns aro appllqued upon brilliant
reds, Persian and Chineso blues, blend
exquisitely subtle greens, and gold and
white are combined riotously on reception,
house and evening frocks aa well as on
dressy coats of all sorts.
A most brilliant effect Is secured by
combining machine-wrought braids witn
heavily encrusted appliques In nouveau
art design. A house grown of old rose
supplo broadcloth shows a heavy border
In modified Greek design of black silk
novelty braid, tad rising from each square
appears an applique In soft Persian col
orings, rose, green, blue and yellow, clev
erly dono by machine.
A trimming popular for vests is a heavy
machlno embroidery so thick as to sug
gest fur or plush. This 13 In colors con
trasting with tho gown and set off by
more delicately embroidered scroll work.
Cream lace and even deeper tones shad
ing to ecru have supplanted the dea4
white In voguo for Summer dresses. An
Argentine lace showing lattice work with
medallions Inset, Is extremely popular.
Cluny laco appears on wraps and cloth
dresses, while a lace which Is really
mallne net overlaid with lace patterns w;.l
enjoy a voguo for evening. Rose chiffon
Is an exquisite new candidate for favor
which promises to bo too delicate to be
come very common.
In trimmings to be made at home quill
ings and ruchlng3 will still be used. Lacs
medallions, of which tha French know
tho great possibilities, will appear oa
evening and dressy frocks. These require
Insertion, beading and lace edging to give,
the full French effect, as the Parisian,
worker never Joins tho edging and Inser
tion except with a dividing line of tha
beading. Medallions aro further beauti
fied by outlining a principle motif or tig-
ure with most delicate colorings.
Woman's Sigh for a Pocket.
Toronto Mall and Empire.
How dear to this heart are tho old-fasa
loned dresses,
"When fond recollection presents them to
view!
In fancy I see tho old -wardrobe and presses
Which held the loved gowns that la girl-
hood T knew,
Tho wide-spreading mohair, the silk thaC
hung by it;
The straw-colored satin with trimmings o
brown;
Tho ruffled foulard, the pink org&ndle nigh;
It;
But oh. for the pocket that hung In escH
gown;
Tho old-fashioned pocket, tho obsolete
pockot.
The praiseworthy pocket that hung U5
each gown.
The dear, roomy pocket I'd hall as x treas
ure. Could I but behold It in gowns of today;
I'd find It tha source of an exquisite pleas-
ure.
But alt my modistes sternly answer rao
"Nay!"
Twould be so convenient, when going out
shopping.
'Twould hold my small purchases com Ins
from town;
And always my purse or my 'erchlef I'rrt
dropping
Oh, met for the pocket that hung In my
gown!
Tho old-fashioned pocket, tho obsoleto
pocket.
The praiseworthy pocket that hung In my
gown.
A gown with a pocket! how fondly T(S
guard It!
Each day ere I'd don It I'd brush it wlta
care;
Not a full Paris costume could make mt
discard it.
Though trimmed witn the laces an Era
pressnlght wear;
But I have no hope, for the fashion ta
banished:
Tho tear of regret will my fond vision
drownl
As fancy reverts to the days that bars
vanished.
I sigh for the pocket that hung in ox
gown
The old-fashioned pocket, the obsolete
pocket.
The praiseworthy pocket that hung in mj
gown.