Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 24, 1905)
MIDSEASON COSTUMES FOR COUNTRY WEAR
. - .
Some-Suggestions for the Woman Who Spends the
Fall Days in Town.
SUITABLE COUNTRY HOUSE GOWNS.
S3IART SPORTING GARMENTS.
BY far Uio most effective clothes to
bo goon at present are the dos
latmoc coats a,nd hats worn at coun
try keusc gatherings. Autumn is the
b for country ontertalnlng, but
it fc net till late In September that
nywt life is In fall swing-, and yoar by
Jar the invitations are givon for a
later and later period. In fact, the
fiera sousen virtually opens smart so
cial lfo In town, so it has come to be
Ute tiling- for woarers of fine
ctothos to extend their country visit
teg apd ontortainlng far Into Novem
W. Moh of the costuming seen has a
Sttramer air, for naturally fine Sum
mer garments aro worn till the last
moment, and, anyway, the end of Sep
tember is too oarly to appear in full
Fall feather. But slnoe Summer splen
dors are frequently In bad condition
by this time, lots of dainty intermedi
ate things are also made up, which,
while following the latest cuts, yet to
a groat degree affect a little country
air which is quite charming. Tramp
lag gowns are especially seen among
Uiose new things. Very dashing sport
ing toggery is also in order, for au
toraoblllng and horseback riding are
among the sportB offered: and if the
bowse puny continues Into the bunt
ing season, howevor small the game, a
hunting: get-up forms part of the fine
Any and overy excuse is seizod to
affect, a new and becoming toilette,
and Co entirely are all the moments of
country houHe life taken up that it
may truthfully be said that no other
smart form of existence offers more
opportunities for fetching attire.
Following the English Yashlon. manv
hostesses have breakfast an informal
meal, served at any moment that the
straggler comes in. dressed for the
A stunning little frock seen at one
of these morning: moments was a
short-skirted "field" dress of red and
black Scotch wool. Tho skirt was
plaited to leave the apron plain, the
latter being shaped in a box plait
widening at the bottom. The little
Teltcd Jacket was in Norfolk style,
with the sloeves almost -tight and the
belt of the gown material. At the
nock the jacket -turned back with
small revers over a chemisette of
white tucked linen, set off by a red
linen tie. The hat was an 'automobile
tam of rod Jeather swathed In a long
rod chiffon veil, dotted with velvet,
and with the smart get up high lace
boots of dull red Russia leather were
Another very smart tramping frock
was of striped covert. In brown and
greenish tan, the model consisting of
a short circular skirt and a little hlp
length box coat. A plain brown straw
sailor ha and brown boots were worn
with this very useful frock, which
would also bo suited to town woar,
and with the addition of a coat would
serve admirably for practical autom-oblllng.-
The day. frocks worn at country
house gatherings, as long as the
weather is fine, are gcnorally.of this
sporty description. The rainy days
which are spent Indoors are celebrated
by the softer frills of femininity, many
very charming tea gowns and delight
ful little house frocks of Parisian de
scription being then seen. Soft; and
really inexpensive wools shape ajjum.
ber of these gowns, which are In the
delicate shades of the season, and to
a large extent trimmed with plain
velvet or ribbon bands. Should tho
sudden notion come for. a drive or auto
run. tho driving or auto raincoat is
slipped over the house get-up, a veil
draped driving hat making the toilette
complete. Much independence. Indeed,
is shown by country house pressors,
though the effort Is always made to
achlevo a dashing effect, and slnco
brilliancy of coloring and garments
for individual sports are In order this
Is npt difficult. The long chiffon veils
which surround driving hats are as
brilliant as the plumage of tropical
birds, and the silk and cloth and leath
er motor-coats are not a whit behind
in brightness. A new kink in rain
coats Is a shower-proof silk, trimmed
with thin leather bands in the same
tint. Such a coat In a very beautiful
GUARD BABY FROM. DRAUGHT
Tho Modern Cradle Is a Stationary Basket YVlt.h Adjustable Hood.
, A MODERN CRADLE.
UP to 3 years of age, baby's sniffling
colds are "a another's constant an
noyance from tho time Autumn days
bogta until tho balmy month of May
brtags warm sunshine and life in the
open air. A draught whllo the tender lit
tle body Is getting Its growth in 'sleep, a
cfclH from too light clothing when taking
the daily airing, achange of temperature
ImWveen one room and -another, and the
fond mamma has a paroxysm of fear over
her baby's wheozing "and sneezing.
Here are several suggestions for dainty
accessories that holp to secure tho very
young child from the influences of draught
and cold. One mother, whose first baby
taught her many lessons about colds and
draughts, has made for her second son
a basket with a folding wicker hood at
one end. This nroreets thn iittin nri
from any unwelcome breezes and can be J
"ujuiitu i several angles tO Keep out
light. Dotted swiss covers the basket,
which is the modern baby's cradle, and
double ruffles trim both sides, as well -as
the edges of the hood. The latter has
its semi-circular hoops of wicker covered
first with cotton cloth, and then with a
ehaped piece of s-nlss, which is fastened
over tho entire hood, holding the hoops
In position. Light blue sateen lines the
wicker bed and butterfly bows of blue
ribbon deck all the corners and niches.
Beautifully adorned baskets of this sort
lire sold at smart shops, but a woman
can buy the hood-top wicker basket and
trim it herself at much le6s cost.
ICo end of fascinating little knitted gar
ments to keep the baby from catching
cold have made their appearance this
FalL The most novel of these la- the
infant's sweater, knitted of white wool,
tho clinging Jersey collar of which
emerges from a square mlnlaturo yoke
and is held close about the neck by a
wide white silk tape. Around tho cuffs
and waist the .same close stitch makes a
shapely, tight-fitting band and insertions
of tape adjust them to various degrees of
Another knitted .comfort which Is -particularly
bewitching to the young mother
is a carriage or cradle blanket built
from squares. The entlro long rug is a
series of knitted squares, the most deli
cate shade of blue wool alternating '-with
a square of white wool having pink
moss rosebud at Its center. A border
crocheted in blue wool completes this
exquisite cover for keeping baby warm.
Another knitted robe is built from long
strips altcrnatlnc sale lemon rni'nr nr.1
-white, with yellow roses running the
jengin oi me wjute stripe.
Crocheted Jackets to protect baby from
a damp, chilly room show only the most
delicate colorings combined with white.
The -ren newest designs have lapels of
contrasting shades turned back In the
same manner as the" lapels of a woman's
klmona, and the tiny .sleeves Are finished
with a similar turnback cuff. -
Th. crocheted Jacket, however, has
rather given place to flannel and elder
down coats. This Is largely because tho
latter are so easily laundered, though
doting aunties and mothers have a ten
dency to make even the flannel Jacket too
elaborate for anything but dry cleaning.
Ribbon embroidery In myriad coloring
and eyelet work are the season's vogue
in adorning baby's cosy garments. Very
dainty is a flannel nightingale, with cape
fileeves that fasten at the side of the
arms by tiny ribbons. The jacket Is cut
on circular lines and falls in billowy folds
about the tiny body, closing under the
arms with ribbon bows. Fine arrowhead
shade of blue ls shown In the -smaller
Motoring has done much to set the
horse aside, but any sport which
brings the noble animal Into play the
smart woman welcomes, counting es
pecially j upon the dapper equestrian
suits, which 'give the plainest, woman
a certain distinction.
Riding habits have of late years
reached a point as nearly perfect- as
could be desired, for, while consider
ing looks, everything is done for the
safety of the rider. The smartest hab
itf to"be seen are unquestionably those
of EntrHsTi maVc. Tho i-zinio rt unftt.
Skirls oTSvhle a welf-known London"
tailor offers- 12- distinct styles, la rapidly-Increasing,
while there Is also
much demand for the divided skirt,
riding astride being- now done consid
erably out of town, .
A very smart wfety habit Is of the now
striped cloth In dark gray and black. The
coat, which Is cut away at the front, is
one of the latest of the English models,
and It Is said to promote a very stylish
look In the saddle. The safety element
of the skirt consists in a division at the
back, which arrangement practically di
vides the skirt Into two wide legs, for the
front apron Is only buttoned on. In walk
ing an invisible buttoning also covers the
back opening, the groom arranging the
skirt after the rider Is seated. With the
apron' left off this Is really a divided mod
el. "With all the buttoning done it has
tho appearance of any smart walking
EKin. Tne last feature Is a great point
SCallODln? finishes thn edr-PR while nma
mentlng the border .t tho center of the
back and the two front pieces are gar-
ju.im.1 oi .Ltouu emDroidery worked with
the finest blue and pink ribbon.
An eiderdown wrap, which is splendid
ior me young Daoy, consists of a long,
full cape without sleeves, whoro it ia
gathered In at the neck a jlain hood Is
oiKiuiru, ana tne enure garment Is
edged with tiny ball-tassels showing the
same colors as tho pattern of the elder-
Ribbon flowers trim separate caps and
hoods.- One pretty tJght-flttIng cap with
warm'llninEr has a"wrent"h of mi mmriin.
in blue ribbon encircling the face. Quite
a umque is a nooa tor a child of 2,
bulltrof supple felt bent and twisted. into
a wee poke bonnet that' covers the ears.
Ribbon roses fill in the scoop of the
cjown and cover the fastening of the
with1 a-country habit, for the cross coun
try' riding which Is often done means fre
quently an entire day and evening In the
getup, and the usual riding skirt Is
neither graceful nor becoming when afoot.
A long coat in covert or lightweight
tweed is an Indispensable "garment for
Autumn out-of-town wear. Then, ir ho
other driving coat can be afforded, the
loose wool raglan or ulster may be made
to do doable service, worn over .a Hht-
To stretch out Summer " millinery over
,the Intermediate season Is more difficult
than to tide over with gowns for, being
.more perishable,, hats arqsooner out of
commission than any other article in the
wardrobe. But many Summer hats war
rant retrimmlng. and often the substitu
tion of a bird or wings for faded flowers
will do wonders in freshening, while quite
a new look Is given if all the trimmings
are taken off and put back In some new
way after pressing and cleaning.
The woman who knows how to visit al
ways carries a number of little things
along with her for refurbishing, for with
j correct toilette necessary for every mo
ment of the day the best wardrobe may
give out sometimes-. Especially, also, are
dainty neck fixings required, veils of va
rious sorts, dressy and. slmplo belts and a
pretty shawl of fancy flchu of some
A fichu arrangement, which would do
wonders for the- freshening, of a frlppe
frock. Is called the capuchin. One worn
with a low white taffeta, silk d
of white, moussellne. with the puffed cape
portion trimmed with two close quillings
of French lace. Two long scarfs of plain
moussellne. hemmed and tucked at the
bottom, finished the narrow shoulder por
tion of the capuchin. The style permits
that these scarfs be worn either hanging
straight orcrossed at the bust and tied
at the back of the waist in a big bow.
Any sort of a detached ribbon and lace
bertha fixing comes Into valuable use at
a country house In the evening, for at the
least pretentious places enlng dress Is
expected. The little dinner and dance
gowns seen, however, unless some great
ball Is to be given, are of a very simple
description. Flowered and striped silks
are much to be seen, with Swiss or plain
moussellne or chiffon trimmings and high
belts of velvet and panne. The usual dec
olletage Is never very low, a pretty Mar
guerite square, an oval cut. or a V-shaped
by a fichu drapery being the usual thing,
while the average sleeve Is elbow-length.
The prettiest skirts, and especially those
made with an eye to dancing, are round
and trimmed girlishly with bands and
frills, and a number show charming un
der qulllniga- in lingerie materials. These
dust ruffles or "sweepers" are, of course,
displayed with e-ery movement as would
be a fussy petticoat flounce, ami with
brack gowns they are sometimes In a bril
liantly colored silk.
Apropos of black gowns, a-bretelle ar
rangement Including a deep girdle with
fancy sash ends. Is one means' of mak
ing a somber frock gay for evening use.
A low black net gown recently worn was
topped by this device In scarlet chiffon
taffeta. The rounded sash ends, as well
as the bretelles.'were finished with double
qulltlngs, the former reaching almost to
the skirt bottom. A gown In white net
showed the same very beautifying ar
rangement In tourmaline velyet.
The two dainty little evening frocks In
the larger drawing both display pretty
shoulder trimmings, upon the smartness
and becomlngness of which the air of aa
evening gown largely depends.
The first toilette is of white silk deli
cately patterned with pink. The little
flounces used upon the bodice and skirt
are of white moussellne. and the belt 13
of pink panne.
The second frock is of blue and white
silk muslin with trimmings of French
lace and blue taffeta ribbon.
Some extracts from a French letter give
further data concerning country house
"Country house parties are Ju3t now
enormously In vogue, and It3 the fad
for the youthful mondalne to dress with
exaggerated simplicity. She Is almost
fermlere (farmer's wife) In her slmply
made little silk frocks and runabout
dresses, some of which show horsy little
leather vests In gay colors. Only In the
evening are any Jewels worn, and then
dowagers sport them In profusion. At
some of the older chateaux ecarte Is
played Instead of bridge, especially at the
costume card parties which are fre
quently given. But this grandeur Is only
for night, and all day long, madame,
whether visitor or chatelaine, goes about
with her sporty field or house simplici
ties. MARY DEAN.
GOOD WAYS TO COOK PORK
Xo Meat Quite So- Appetizing When Properly Served.
WHBX properly prepared and served
with suitable vegetables, there Is
no meat quite so appetizing as pork. Se
verely tabooed as Its use has been by
xnodorn cooks, it still -has a place on the
household bill of fare: and now that pool
weather has setjn. the housewife can
saieiy oner it once a week. Not only will
It be welcome-to the family, but Jt will
greatly help In "reducing the meat bills,
which have crept up so, gradually the
past year. Like many other kinds of
food, ' Its -digestibility depends largely
upon tne care with which It is cooked and
tne discretion with which It is eaten.
A very tasty roast and one that makes
the finest cold meat. Id a leg of pork.
Choose one that is young, which can.be
determined by pinching the lean part
smooth so that It breaks. The skin shouW
also break and dent. Cut a slit in the
knuckle with a sharp knife and fill the
grooves with sage and onion chonned.
and a seasoning cf pepper and salt. When
naii roasted, score the skin In' strips, but
do not cut deeper than the outer rind.
Serve with the following sauce:
Put one pint of milk Into a double boil
er. Aaa one good-sized, onion chopped.
After removing evtrv nartt.? nt mf
rub phesjialf pound of stale bread crumbs
in the hand until very fine and add them
tO the milk. Allow thf -cvntrr In thn lnw.r
part of the boiler to ateam for five mln-
uies. aacn uua one saitspoqniul of
ground - mace, one-half saltspoonful of
paprica and one level tcasDoonful of salt.
Whip with an eggbcater until" quite
smooth and stir In one tablcspoonful of
butter. Baked pumpkin, cold, slaw or
cauliflower should be offered -with
Pork Tenderloins These may be broiled
or fried. When broiled they should be
well buttered after placing on a platter
for BPrvinc- To frr thorn 1im a cm.1l
bit of lard and turn them constantly In
It .until thoroughly cooked. Serve with
oyster sauce, sweet potatoes and fried
Oyster Sauce-rDraln and- wash 25 oys
ters and stir In- a saucepan until the glll3
curl. Drain and save the liquor, to which
add. One-haJf Clin of mlllr. Thlotron ttrltVi
one tablespoonful of butter rubbed to
gether with onn -tnhlnnoTifMl of Ann.
and add one teaspoonful of onion Juice.
Stir, until hotline Rnotnn villi nn. .nU.
spoonful of pepper and a level tcaspoon-
mi oi zaic
- Pork Ctltlnt "nrith r1rr B,t..i T.j,
the chops and sprinkle with salt and pep
per, uip mem nrsi in Deaten egg and
then In a mixture of bread rrnmh
minced, onion and sage. Fry 30 or 30
minutes in hot lard and serve with apple
sauce and th following- tmw TVn Vi
a bunch of celery and cut green tops
ana au into pieces, cook in water or
Btook until tfnAfr. T-iji thrnn)i o
ander. "Rtib on tiUt'irwinfitl nf
and one tablespoonful ef flour t&fttbtr.
Add to the celery pulp with one pint of
water. Stir until it bolls and season
with salt and pepper to taste. If the
cream Is at hand, add six tablespoonfufs.
vPork Pot PleScald thoroughly with hot
water pieces of the rib of lean salt pork
and a Slice Or tWO Of thfr fat of salt nnrlr
'Bo -careful that no briny taste fa left In
the meat. Cover with cold water, season
with pepper and boll for an hour. Then
add six potatoes cut Into quarters. When
all begin to boll drop in dumpllng3 made
One Dint sour milk, two n-n wull hmf.
en. one teaspoonful of salt and a level
teaspoonful of soda. Make a stiff batter
wiui oreaa nour. jjrop -tnis into tne ket
tie of pork by spoonfuls and cook 10 mln
Utes with the cover on.
Sausage ChoD one nound of lean nork
very fine. -season with one teaspoonful of
sage, the same of salt and a dash of
pepper, anape into nat cakes and cook
qulck4y In an Iron pan, browning on both
sides. Then shove over to the side of the
stove, where they can cook slowly for 15
Two Receipts for Baked Ham.
Soak a whole ham In cold water over
night. Remove and cover the lean side
with a naate of sTnoothltr'mlT-arf flm- nnri
water, taking care' that It Is of sufficient
micKness to Keep in an tne meat Juice.
Bake In a. moderate oven, allowing 25
minutes tii ewrv .nonnr? Rnmrwa Vi
casing and akin and cover with bread
"U1HU3. rut in tne oven until it Becomes
a golden brown.
No. 2 Put the ham In a granlto kettle,
cover with cold water and let it come
alowly to a bolL Pour oft the water and
cover agalnr When it arrives at the boll-
lntT DOlnt- T)Ut In a hltndfllt of hnv toor.oa
and one teasnoonful of -n.-hft r-ln"o Tf
y. dou ior two nours. Remove the skin
and put into an open dripping pan with
one pint of 'water and one pint of cher
ry wine. Cover the top with bread
crumbs and bake- until tnrir iimr
freOUentlV. Serve -with frlod cm-eat- -nn-
tatocs and Brussels sprouts or spinach.
der sauce gives baked ham Just the
desired sham flavor. -Roll one nint nt
cider rapidly for five minutes. Add two
wnoio cioves, one tablespoonful of
chopped onion, six peppercorns crushed,
One tableSDOOnful Of chonned relerv ond a
bay leaf. When the cider is reduced to
nan us original quanxity, strain and
Vlrelnln. Rarbepned TTnm Put mn- li.m
In. thin slices and. soak In scalding water
one-half hour. Take them out and lay
them, in a frrlnsr nan. Pennsr enrh Tf
and spread on one-fourth teaspoonful of
maue rausiaro. .cry in vinegar, one-half
teaspoonful to each slice, turning often.
'A delicious breakfast dfoh with wni-v
Is scrappel. Take the head, heart and
any jean scraps of pork and boll until the
flesh slios from the: banes. Hmni' oil
.fat, gristle and bones, and chop fine.
nea coic remove- tne rat from the sur
face of tie Jlquor in which the meat was
keUeft and return to the fire., As soon a
It bolls, put on the chopped meat and,
pepper and salt to. taste. Allow it to
come to a boil again and thicken with
corn meal, letting the meal slip through
the fingers slowly to prevent lumps. Cook
an hour, stirring very often, and then
push back on the stove to boll gently for
another" hour. Mold in a shallow, square
pan, and. when cold fry in slices, tha
same as you do cold mush.
3Iy Little Baby Girl.
J. ir. Lewis In Houston Post.
Ob, tor shade and Just a hammock
Not near big enough for three.
Just to hold a maid I know of.
Just a little maid ana me.
Where the crass Is soft as velvet
'Neath an an overhanging tree!
Just a hammock by a river
With a. little teentsy girl;
Just a breeze to whisper softly
And to stir the yellow curl
That- lies soft against her forehead
And a sky of blue and peirL
Just a little girl with ribbons.
Each one bigger than a rose.
Puced In fluffy, puffy bunches,
Soft and coaxy sort of bows
On' each side of her glad vlsags.
And the-whole world la repose I
Then her laughing eyes wide opwt.
Then her red lips pouting, too;
Ups the color og her ribbons.
Eyes the color of the blue
That the sky is, then her laughter
And: her cry of "Peek-a-bool"
Then a -scramble from the hammock
Just as glad as glad can bet
Then the dodging, running-, hidiryr.
Playing tag around a tree
And-two dimpled hands outreachlng
la excitement after me.
That's all; Just two fluffy bunches
Of red ribbons. Just & curl.
Tellow gold, on her white forehead.
Just a laughing, dashing whirl.
Just the tilting laugh of triumph
Of my little baby girl!
He Asked Too 3Iuch.
It a fairy said to me,
"Friend, where would you rather V.
On the -high, cool mountains or-
At the white and hot seashore?"
I would answer. I would say.
"Let me only git away
Get where neither strife nor noise
Beats abotit the peace envoys.
Get where- neither noise nor strife
Rages o'er the simple life.
'Where no father of eighteen
O'er race suicide Is keen.
And a sudden, painful death
. Falls, on whosoever salth
Tainted money.' 'Fads and fancies,
Frenzied systems and finances
'Hyde, .'Dcpew or Tellow Jack'
For to me, alack! alack 1
Such like topics tedious are.
And to 'scape thera Pd go far. ,-"
Prithee, fairy, take me whera-
They are never in the air."
The fairy, frowning, shook hc-li.
"Ch, 1jbjm1U. afc aaML.