Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 24, 1905)
MIDSEASON COSTUMES FOR COUNTRY WEAR . - . Some-Suggestions for the Woman Who Spends the Fall Days in Town. SUITABLE COUNTRY HOUSE GOWNS. S3IART SPORTING GARMENTS. BY far Uio most effective clothes to bo goon at present are the dos latmoc coats a,nd hats worn at coun try keusc gatherings. Autumn is the b for country ontertalnlng, but it fc net till late In September that nywt life is In fall swing-, and yoar by Jar the invitations are givon for a later and later period. In fact, the fiera sousen virtually opens smart so cial lfo In town, so it has come to be Ute tiling- for woarers of fine ctothos to extend their country visit teg apd ontortainlng far Into Novem W. Moh of the costuming seen has a Sttramer air, for naturally fine Sum mer garments aro worn till the last moment, and, anyway, the end of Sep tember is too oarly to appear in full Fall feather. But slnoe Summer splen dors are frequently In bad condition by this time, lots of dainty intermedi ate things are also made up, which, while following the latest cuts, yet to a groat degree affect a little country air which is quite charming. Tramp lag gowns are especially seen among Uiose new things. Very dashing sport ing toggery is also in order, for au toraoblllng and horseback riding are among the sportB offered: and if the bowse puny continues Into the bunt ing season, howevor small the game, a hunting: get-up forms part of the fine wardrobe. Any and overy excuse is seizod to affect, a new and becoming toilette, and Co entirely are all the moments of country houHe life taken up that it may truthfully be said that no other smart form of existence offers more opportunities for fetching attire. Following the English Yashlon. manv hostesses have breakfast an informal meal, served at any moment that the straggler comes in. dressed for the morning's Jauntings. A stunning little frock seen at one of these morning: moments was a short-skirted "field" dress of red and black Scotch wool. Tho skirt was plaited to leave the apron plain, the latter being shaped in a box plait widening at the bottom. The little Teltcd Jacket was in Norfolk style, with the sloeves almost -tight and the belt of the gown material. At the nock the jacket -turned back with small revers over a chemisette of white tucked linen, set off by a red linen tie. The hat was an 'automobile tam of rod Jeather swathed In a long rod chiffon veil, dotted with velvet, and with the smart get up high lace boots of dull red Russia leather were worn. Another very smart tramping frock was of striped covert. In brown and greenish tan, the model consisting of a short circular skirt and a little hlp length box coat. A plain brown straw sailor ha and brown boots were worn with this very useful frock, which would also bo suited to town woar, and with the addition of a coat would serve admirably for practical autom-oblllng.- . The day. frocks worn at country house gatherings, as long as the weather is fine, are gcnorally.of this sporty description. The rainy days which are spent Indoors are celebrated by the softer frills of femininity, many very charming tea gowns and delight ful little house frocks of Parisian de scription being then seen. Soft; and really inexpensive wools shape ajjum. ber of these gowns, which are In the delicate shades of the season, and to a large extent trimmed with plain velvet or ribbon bands. Should tho sudden notion come for. a drive or auto run. tho driving or auto raincoat is slipped over the house get-up, a veil draped driving hat making the toilette complete. Much independence. Indeed, is shown by country house pressors, though the effort Is always made to achlevo a dashing effect, and slnco brilliancy of coloring and garments for individual sports are In order this Is npt difficult. The long chiffon veils which surround driving hats are as brilliant as the plumage of tropical birds, and the silk and cloth and leath er motor-coats are not a whit behind in brightness. A new kink in rain coats Is a shower-proof silk, trimmed with thin leather bands in the same tint. Such a coat In a very beautiful GUARD BABY FROM. DRAUGHT Tho Modern Cradle Is a Stationary Basket YVlt.h Adjustable Hood. , . , A MODERN CRADLE. UP to 3 years of age, baby's sniffling colds are "a another's constant an noyance from tho time Autumn days bogta until tho balmy month of May brtags warm sunshine and life in the open air. A draught whllo the tender lit tle body Is getting Its growth in 'sleep, a cfclH from too light clothing when taking the daily airing, achange of temperature ImWveen one room and -another, and the fond mamma has a paroxysm of fear over her baby's wheozing "and sneezing. Here are several suggestions for dainty accessories that holp to secure tho very young child from the influences of draught and cold. One mother, whose first baby taught her many lessons about colds and draughts, has made for her second son a basket with a folding wicker hood at one end. This nroreets thn iittin nri from any unwelcome breezes and can be J "ujuiitu i several angles tO Keep out light. Dotted swiss covers the basket, which is the modern baby's cradle, and double ruffles trim both sides, as well -as the edges of the hood. The latter has its semi-circular hoops of wicker covered first with cotton cloth, and then with a ehaped piece of s-nlss, which is fastened over tho entire hood, holding the hoops In position. Light blue sateen lines the wicker bed and butterfly bows of blue ribbon deck all the corners and niches. Beautifully adorned baskets of this sort lire sold at smart shops, but a woman can buy the hood-top wicker basket and trim it herself at much le6s cost. ICo end of fascinating little knitted gar ments to keep the baby from catching cold have made their appearance this FalL The most novel of these la- the infant's sweater, knitted of white wool, tho clinging Jersey collar of which emerges from a square mlnlaturo yoke and is held close about the neck by a wide white silk tape. Around tho cuffs and waist the .same close stitch makes a shapely, tight-fitting band and insertions of tape adjust them to various degrees of plumpness. Another knitted .comfort which Is -particularly bewitching to the young mother is a carriage or cradle blanket built from squares. The entlro long rug is a series of knitted squares, the most deli cate shade of blue wool alternating '-with a square of white wool having pink moss rosebud at Its center. A border crocheted in blue wool completes this exquisite cover for keeping baby warm. Another knitted robe is built from long strips altcrnatlnc sale lemon rni'nr nr.1 -white, with yellow roses running the jengin oi me wjute stripe. Crocheted Jackets to protect baby from a damp, chilly room show only the most delicate colorings combined with white. The -ren newest designs have lapels of contrasting shades turned back In the same manner as the" lapels of a woman's klmona, and the tiny .sleeves Are finished with a similar turnback cuff. - Th. crocheted Jacket, however, has rather given place to flannel and elder down coats. This Is largely because tho latter are so easily laundered, though doting aunties and mothers have a ten dency to make even the flannel Jacket too elaborate for anything but dry cleaning. Ribbon embroidery In myriad coloring and eyelet work are the season's vogue in adorning baby's cosy garments. Very dainty is a flannel nightingale, with cape fileeves that fasten at the side of the arms by tiny ribbons. The jacket Is cut on circular lines and falls in billowy folds about the tiny body, closing under the arms with ribbon bows. Fine arrowhead shade of blue ls shown In the -smaller drawing. Motoring has done much to set the horse aside, but any sport which brings the noble animal Into play the smart woman welcomes, counting es pecially j upon the dapper equestrian suits, which 'give the plainest, woman a certain distinction. Riding habits have of late years reached a point as nearly perfect- as could be desired, for, while consider ing looks, everything is done for the safety of the rider. The smartest hab itf to"be seen are unquestionably those of EntrHsTi maVc. Tho i-zinio rt unftt. Skirls oTSvhle a welf-known London" tailor offers- 12- distinct styles, la rapidly-Increasing, while there Is also much demand for the divided skirt, riding astride being- now done consid erably out of town, . A very smart wfety habit Is of the now striped cloth In dark gray and black. The coat, which Is cut away at the front, is one of the latest of the English models, and It Is said to promote a very stylish look In the saddle. The safety element of the skirt consists in a division at the back, which arrangement practically di vides the skirt Into two wide legs, for the front apron Is only buttoned on. In walk ing an invisible buttoning also covers the back opening, the groom arranging the skirt after the rider Is seated. With the apron' left off this Is really a divided mod el. "With all the buttoning done it has tho appearance of any smart walking EKin. Tne last feature Is a great point SCallODln? finishes thn edr-PR while nma mentlng the border .t tho center of the back and the two front pieces are gar- ju.im.1 oi .Ltouu emDroidery worked with the finest blue and pink ribbon. An eiderdown wrap, which is splendid ior me young Daoy, consists of a long, full cape without sleeves, whoro it ia gathered In at the neck a jlain hood Is oiKiuiru, ana tne enure garment Is edged with tiny ball-tassels showing the same colors as tho pattern of the elder- down. Ribbon flowers trim separate caps and hoods.- One pretty tJght-flttIng cap with warm'llninEr has a"wrent"h of mi mmriin. in blue ribbon encircling the face. Quite a umque is a nooa tor a child of 2, bulltrof supple felt bent and twisted. into a wee poke bonnet that' covers the ears. Ribbon roses fill in the scoop of the cjown and cover the fastening of the iiiwoa lies. with1 a-country habit, for the cross coun try' riding which Is often done means fre quently an entire day and evening In the getup, and the usual riding skirt Is neither graceful nor becoming when afoot. A long coat in covert or lightweight tweed is an Indispensable "garment for Autumn out-of-town wear. Then, ir ho other driving coat can be afforded, the loose wool raglan or ulster may be made to do doable service, worn over .a Hht- weight sweater. To stretch out Summer " millinery over ,the Intermediate season Is more difficult than to tide over with gowns for, being .more perishable,, hats arqsooner out of commission than any other article in the wardrobe. But many Summer hats war rant retrimmlng. and often the substitu tion of a bird or wings for faded flowers will do wonders in freshening, while quite a new look Is given if all the trimmings are taken off and put back In some new way after pressing and cleaning. The woman who knows how to visit al ways carries a number of little things along with her for refurbishing, for with j correct toilette necessary for every mo ment of the day the best wardrobe may give out sometimes-. Especially, also, are dainty neck fixings required, veils of va rious sorts, dressy and. slmplo belts and a pretty shawl of fancy flchu of some sort. A fichu arrangement, which would do wonders for the- freshening, of a frlppe frock. Is called the capuchin. One worn with a low white taffeta, silk d of white, moussellne. with the puffed cape portion trimmed with two close quillings of French lace. Two long scarfs of plain moussellne. hemmed and tucked at the bottom, finished the narrow shoulder por tion of the capuchin. The style permits that these scarfs be worn either hanging straight orcrossed at the bust and tied at the back of the waist in a big bow. Any sort of a detached ribbon and lace bertha fixing comes Into valuable use at a country house In the evening, for at the least pretentious places enlng dress Is expected. The little dinner and dance gowns seen, however, unless some great ball Is to be given, are of a very simple description. Flowered and striped silks are much to be seen, with Swiss or plain moussellne or chiffon trimmings and high belts of velvet and panne. The usual dec olletage Is never very low, a pretty Mar guerite square, an oval cut. or a V-shaped by a fichu drapery being the usual thing, while the average sleeve Is elbow-length. The prettiest skirts, and especially those made with an eye to dancing, are round and trimmed girlishly with bands and frills, and a number show charming un der qulllniga- in lingerie materials. These dust ruffles or "sweepers" are, of course, displayed with e-ery movement as would be a fussy petticoat flounce, ami with brack gowns they are sometimes In a bril liantly colored silk. Apropos of black gowns, a-bretelle ar rangement Including a deep girdle with fancy sash ends. Is one means' of mak ing a somber frock gay for evening use. A low black net gown recently worn was topped by this device In scarlet chiffon taffeta. The rounded sash ends, as well as the bretelles.'were finished with double qulltlngs, the former reaching almost to the skirt bottom. A gown In white net showed the same very beautifying ar rangement In tourmaline velyet. The two dainty little evening frocks In the larger drawing both display pretty shoulder trimmings, upon the smartness and becomlngness of which the air of aa evening gown largely depends. The first toilette is of white silk deli cately patterned with pink. The little flounces used upon the bodice and skirt are of white moussellne. and the belt 13 of pink panne. The second frock is of blue and white silk muslin with trimmings of French lace and blue taffeta ribbon. Some extracts from a French letter give further data concerning country house wear: "Country house parties are Ju3t now enormously In vogue, and It3 the fad for the youthful mondalne to dress with exaggerated simplicity. She Is almost fermlere (farmer's wife) In her slmply made little silk frocks and runabout dresses, some of which show horsy little leather vests In gay colors. Only In the evening are any Jewels worn, and then dowagers sport them In profusion. At some of the older chateaux ecarte Is played Instead of bridge, especially at the costume card parties which are fre quently given. But this grandeur Is only for night, and all day long, madame, whether visitor or chatelaine, goes about with her sporty field or house simplici ties. MARY DEAN. COStrORT. -1 roRxAsr GOOD WAYS TO COOK PORK Xo Meat Quite So- Appetizing When Properly Served. WHBX properly prepared and served with suitable vegetables, there Is no meat quite so appetizing as pork. Se verely tabooed as Its use has been by xnodorn cooks, it still -has a place on the household bill of fare: and now that pool weather has setjn. the housewife can saieiy oner it once a week. Not only will It be welcome-to the family, but Jt will greatly help In "reducing the meat bills, which have crept up so, gradually the past year. Like many other kinds of food, ' Its -digestibility depends largely upon tne care with which It is cooked and tne discretion with which It is eaten. A very tasty roast and one that makes the finest cold meat. Id a leg of pork. Choose one that is young, which can.be determined by pinching the lean part smooth so that It breaks. The skin shouW also break and dent. Cut a slit in the knuckle with a sharp knife and fill the grooves with sage and onion chonned. and a seasoning cf pepper and salt. When naii roasted, score the skin In' strips, but do not cut deeper than the outer rind. Serve with the following sauce: Put one pint of milk Into a double boil er. Aaa one good-sized, onion chopped. After removing evtrv nartt.? nt mf rub phesjialf pound of stale bread crumbs in the hand until very fine and add them tO the milk. Allow thf -cvntrr In thn lnw.r part of the boiler to ateam for five mln- uies. aacn uua one saitspoqniul of ground - mace, one-half saltspoonful of paprica and one level tcasDoonful of salt. Whip with an eggbcater until" quite smooth and stir In one tablcspoonful of butter. Baked pumpkin, cold, slaw or cauliflower should be offered -with .pork.. Pork Tenderloins These may be broiled or fried. When broiled they should be well buttered after placing on a platter for BPrvinc- To frr thorn 1im a cm.1l bit of lard and turn them constantly In It .until thoroughly cooked. Serve with oyster sauce, sweet potatoes and fried hominy. Oyster Sauce-rDraln and- wash 25 oys ters and stir In- a saucepan until the glll3 curl. Drain and save the liquor, to which add. One-haJf Clin of mlllr. Thlotron ttrltVi one tablespoonful of butter rubbed to gether with onn -tnhlnnoTifMl of Ann. and add one teaspoonful of onion Juice. Stir, until hotline Rnotnn villi nn. .nU. spoonful of pepper and a level tcaspoon- mi oi zaic - Pork Ctltlnt "nrith r1rr B,t..i T.j, the chops and sprinkle with salt and pep per, uip mem nrsi in Deaten egg and then In a mixture of bread rrnmh minced, onion and sage. Fry 30 or 30 minutes in hot lard and serve with apple sauce and th following- tmw TVn Vi a bunch of celery and cut green tops ana au into pieces, cook in water or Btook until tfnAfr. T-iji thrnn)i o ander. "Rtib on tiUt'irwinfitl nf and one tablespoonful ef flour t&fttbtr. Add to the celery pulp with one pint of water. Stir until it bolls and season with salt and pepper to taste. If the cream Is at hand, add six tablespoonfufs. vPork Pot PleScald thoroughly with hot water pieces of the rib of lean salt pork and a Slice Or tWO Of thfr fat of salt nnrlr 'Bo -careful that no briny taste fa left In the meat. Cover with cold water, season with pepper and boll for an hour. Then add six potatoes cut Into quarters. When all begin to boll drop in dumpllng3 made as follows: One Dint sour milk, two n-n wull hmf. en. one teaspoonful of salt and a level teaspoonful of soda. Make a stiff batter wiui oreaa nour. jjrop -tnis into tne ket tie of pork by spoonfuls and cook 10 mln Utes with the cover on. Sausage ChoD one nound of lean nork very fine. -season with one teaspoonful of sage, the same of salt and a dash of pepper, anape into nat cakes and cook qulck4y In an Iron pan, browning on both sides. Then shove over to the side of the stove, where they can cook slowly for 15 minutes. Two Receipts for Baked Ham. Soak a whole ham In cold water over night. Remove and cover the lean side with a naate of sTnoothltr'mlT-arf flm- nnri water, taking care' that It Is of sufficient micKness to Keep in an tne meat Juice. Bake In a. moderate oven, allowing 25 minutes tii ewrv .nonnr? Rnmrwa Vi casing and akin and cover with bread "U1HU3. rut in tne oven until it Becomes a golden brown. No. 2 Put the ham In a granlto kettle, cover with cold water and let it come alowly to a bolL Pour oft the water and cover agalnr When it arrives at the boll- lntT DOlnt- T)Ut In a hltndfllt of hnv toor.oa and one teasnoonful of -n.-hft r-ln"o Tf y. dou ior two nours. Remove the skin and put into an open dripping pan with one pint of 'water and one pint of cher ry wine. Cover the top with bread crumbs and bake- until tnrir iimr freOUentlV. Serve -with frlod cm-eat- -nn- tatocs and Brussels sprouts or spinach. der sauce gives baked ham Just the desired sham flavor. -Roll one nint nt cider rapidly for five minutes. Add two wnoio cioves, one tablespoonful of chopped onion, six peppercorns crushed, One tableSDOOnful Of chonned relerv ond a bay leaf. When the cider is reduced to nan us original quanxity, strain and serve. Vlrelnln. Rarbepned TTnm Put mn- li.m In. thin slices and. soak In scalding water one-half hour. Take them out and lay them, in a frrlnsr nan. Pennsr enrh Tf and spread on one-fourth teaspoonful of maue rausiaro. .cry in vinegar, one-half teaspoonful to each slice, turning often. 'A delicious breakfast dfoh with wni-v Is scrappel. Take the head, heart and any jean scraps of pork and boll until the flesh slios from the: banes. Hmni' oil .fat, gristle and bones, and chop fine. nea coic remove- tne rat from the sur face of tie Jlquor in which the meat was keUeft and return to the fire., As soon a It bolls, put on the chopped meat and, pepper and salt to. taste. Allow it to come to a boil again and thicken with corn meal, letting the meal slip through the fingers slowly to prevent lumps. Cook an hour, stirring very often, and then push back on the stove to boll gently for another" hour. Mold in a shallow, square pan, and. when cold fry in slices, tha same as you do cold mush. 3Iy Little Baby Girl. J. ir. Lewis In Houston Post. Ob, tor shade and Just a hammock Not near big enough for three. Just to hold a maid I know of. Just a little maid ana me. Where the crass Is soft as velvet 'Neath an an overhanging tree! Just a hammock by a river With a. little teentsy girl; Just a breeze to whisper softly And to stir the yellow curl That- lies soft against her forehead And a sky of blue and peirL Just a little girl with ribbons. Each one bigger than a rose. Puced In fluffy, puffy bunches, Soft and coaxy sort of bows On' each side of her glad vlsags. And the-whole world la repose I Then her laughing eyes wide opwt. Then her red lips pouting, too; Ups the color og her ribbons. Eyes the color of the blue That the sky is, then her laughter And: her cry of "Peek-a-bool" Then a -scramble from the hammock Just as glad as glad can bet Then the dodging, running-, hidiryr. Playing tag around a tree And-two dimpled hands outreachlng la excitement after me. That's all; Just two fluffy bunches Of red ribbons. Just & curl. Tellow gold, on her white forehead. Just a laughing, dashing whirl. Just the tilting laugh of triumph Of my little baby girl! He Asked Too 3Iuch. It a fairy said to me, "Friend, where would you rather V. On the -high, cool mountains or- At the white and hot seashore?" I would answer. I would say. "Let me only git away Get where neither strife nor noise Beats abotit the peace envoys. Get where- neither noise nor strife Rages o'er the simple life. 'Where no father of eighteen O'er race suicide Is keen. And a sudden, painful death . Falls, on whosoever salth Tainted money.' 'Fads and fancies, Frenzied systems and finances 'Hyde, .'Dcpew or Tellow Jack' For to me, alack! alack 1 Such like topics tedious are. And to 'scape thera Pd go far. ,-" Prithee, fairy, take me whera- They are never in the air." The fairy, frowning, shook hc-li. "Ch, 1jbjm1U. afc aaML.