The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, September 03, 1905, PART FOUR, Page 43, Image 43

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THERE Is no diminution in the pres
tige of tho separate waist. That ad
mirable little garment, which can be
made to suit all times and seasons, is
as much exploited as ever among the new
styles. If anything, it may bo said to
have achieved a more enviable position,
for nowadays the odd bodice which Is
merely an odd bodice, is scracely counted
in the calendar of fashion. The waist,
different from the skirt, strives for a
modish individuality, and the liner hand
made sorts, even in lingerie, might almost
appear at court without challenge.
The first thing noticed about the new
odd bodice is their marked departure
from the old blousing lines. There is only
the slightest bagging of the front, and
this change, with the high girdling and
dressy sleeve effects, promotes, in proper
materials, a most elegant look. There is
a tendency with many dressy models to
lengthen the shoulders, through either
the trimming or cut. and the back fasten
ings most generally employed seem ju
venile in the extreme. For this rear
fastening is not. confined to the youthful
mammas, maiden aunts and even
grandmammas going by with the proper
complement of back buttons. -
Another point with - the ultra-stylish
waist is that it fits everywhere more
snugly than formerly, and so much is
this tautnoss a modish feature that
women who buy ready-made bodices now
find it necessary to get smaller sizes.
For example, wearers who formely took
a 3S bust now get 38, and if the bodice is
properly made this is amply large.
In everyday effects, such waists as fol
low shirtwaist lines and are made in
shirtwaist materials, tho gigot sleeve is
much exploited. This is wrist or three
quarter length, with the fullnoss f the
top put in with box or side ploats. The
sleeve may be in one, or thore may be an
uhder-arm piece, and with quite a num
ber of the models there is an extra full
ness at the elbow, which gives the effect
of a top puff and tight forearm.
The smaller drawing displays two smart
everyday effects with gigot sleeves in
the two lengths. The drossioi model is
of French flannel, in the new St. Pat
rick's blue, with quillings of narrow black
satin ribbon. This is put on the front at
tlie edges of the button pleat and to edge
two wide side tucks which border It.
The ribbon also prettily trims the stock
and the double cuffs of the three-quarter
sleeves. The girdle is of black satin, with
a blue and black metal buckle, and the
round buttons are in the same material.
The second waist, which is of white
wool albatross, continues through a red
and white plaid, braid a sort of continuity
of costume, for the skirt is entirely of red
and white plaid wool. A highly orna
mental yoke effect is outlined by the
braid, the same design and plain bands
appearing upon the sleeves.
All sorts of soft wool textures vie with
soft-finished linens among tho Jatest shirt
materials offered, for without a doubt
shirtwaists in wash llnem and cottons
will be worn the "Winter through. The
tub models, which continue to show a
marvelous nicety of finish, and hand em
broideries and braidings of Indescribable
beauty, are undeniably the best Invest
ments. These waists, which .are invari
ably In white, may be worn with skirts
of any color, and the -degree of Immacu
late freshness thoy must display gives al
ways a look of .bandbox neatnes. For
yokes are cut In the garment, but trim
mings shape many pointed, round and
square yoke effects, and while buttoning
at the back, a number of the dressier
bodices are trimmed down the front with
a vest look
In the matter of the drossy bodices,
their scope Is unlimited, and though pre
sumably odd models, with the. colored
one?, effort Is always made to carry out
J a look of continuity with the skirts worn.
The white waist, whatever Its material,
i is at home "with a skirt of any color, bat
the bodice with red. blue, rose or green,
needs a skirt which at' least repeats, a
tpuph' of ojio of those colors, or tee ' the
get-up seems very patchy- For fhisroa
sori, perhaps, black and wlilteC" waists,
which may be worn with smart Waok
skirts, have come to represent the very
topmost notch of style. Such bodices,
which are In liberty, satin, mcssallne, and
other soft silks, open frequently ovor
chomlsettcs of white embroidered ba
tiste, with the delicate unllned stock of
these lightly fcatherboned and fitting as
tight-as skin. Sometimes there arc also
undersleeves of embroidered batiste, they
and the guimpe showing tiny ruches of
Valenciennes lace, and such a set often
offering Itself detached from the bodice,
and flaunting a price mark extravagantly
high. For the point with these dainty de
tails is the faultndss fashion In which
thoy are constructed. So there Is nothing
for the girl of small means but to get
busy and make her own chemisettes and
undersleeves. for In all likelihood these
protty trappings will be much worn all
Wiriter. .r
. The . drawing showing five bodices dla.
pktys some new effects and materials for
drcFsy odd waists.
The plaid model at the right of the row
of sitting maidens is perhaps- the most
novel- of all, for the pattern In this is
made by a bluo and black plaid sllklln
lng, 'over which blue silk mouseline Is
placed. Tho shirred guimpe and under
puffs of the elbow sleeves are of white
silk, mousscline; tho girdle and aleevo
puffs bjue panne, and .the Jabotand
sieeve inns 01 me wn11e-.Riourscime.4em-broidoraL.
With such a bodice, which la
suited to any elegant Autumn and Winter
service, a blue silk or velvet skirt would
be In-keeping.
A stunning waist for a white cloth, skirt
Is white rajah silk, with a handsome yoke
and cuffs of deep cream guipure.
The third bodice is made quaintly long
shouldered by three tiny ruffles of silk,
which trim the shoulders In a way to ac
complish the effect of a bertha. The el
bow sleeves with their silk and lace ruffles
are very Jaunty, and the front of the lit
tle garment shows the ladder of prim
bows long used. The yoko Is of French
lace, the bows of black and the waist
materials proper of black silk, fish net
and electric blue messallne.
Black Is everywhere a contrasting- note
in the new styles, which brings black vel
vet ribbon again to the fore as a valuable
waist trimming. And the old fashion of
contrasting rich shades of blue with black
looks, from the many evidences seen, as
If this is to be one of the Winter fads.
Watteau pink grog-grain silk shapes the
fourth waist, whose black velvet girdle
and front bows would create the neces
sary harmony for a black skirt. Bands
of the silk embroidered with black evolve
the rest of the effective garniture.
The fifth waist Is the most partlfied and
likely to be admired of all. It represents
one of the r.ew season's daintiest exploits
in lace, taffeta silk, and moussellne. all
.Othese. materials being combined In: a
way to .accomplish a very diaphanous and
delicate appearance. The foundation of
the bodice Is of apple-blossom pink taf
feta silk, over which a complete bodice of
pink silk moussellne is put. Over this
again is hung white lace applied in a
novel yet simple way, with pink, taffeta,
and the girdle may be of the same ma
terial or of panne.
The cut, fit and bccomlngness of the
girdle is a very serious point with all
dressy waists, for the girdle is in many
Instances the main feature. Fashioned
upon zone forms or whalebone In these
shapes, tire liveliest high belts are still
seen of gorgeous ribbons, made even more
fiowcrllke with the shirrfngs or rosettes
at the rear, and with a splendid buckle of
some sort at the front. Such a girdle is
extremely becoming to slim figures, and to
get tho high modish line without the
shortening tendency of ho close belts,
stouter figures sometimes have them
made In skeleton form, of very narrow
black velvet ribbon.
A se't consisting of girdle, collar and
cuff pieces may also sometimes be found
In the shops, made up in a highly orna
mental way. These aid the homo dress
maker tremendously In the construction
of a bodice, and the linen sets which show
colored embroideries are really stunning.
For very fino waists jeweled buttons
will again be a feature of the Wlntor, and
the more splendid of these will be In the
form of a large single stone set simply In
a rim of metal. On a bodice of green
place were buttons of genuine Montana
sapphires in a paler shade, which seemed
as glorious as diamonds.
The short neck chains of huge beads,
made of composition materials to look
like, wood, will also bo worn, in matching
colors, with the smartest bodices; $3.50
is the price of such necklaces In their best
shapes, and they are seen in all of the,
delicate colors as well as white and
black. The finish is dull thU3 giving a
Roman pearl look to the tender, pinks
and. bluos.
Apropos of very fine bodices,, authori
tative advices state that a number of
the waists for gauze and lace evening
frocks will be made with habit tails. One
of Irish lace, with tiny revcrs, was de
scribed as worn over a rosercolored che
misette caught in at the- waist with a
corselet belt of soft willow green, with
three tails of the green alternating with
tails of lace. Irish lace butterflies, with
green silky bodies, decked tho front of the
moussellne vest In lieu of buttons.
The shortness of the fino bodice sleeves
has also revived the taste for bracelets,
which are to be worn in enormous num
bers. The new styles In these include
many coin bangle sorts, and pliable gold
hoops, set brooch fashion the oval or
round ornament often showing a single
brilliant stone.
The modish glove for the short-sleeved
bodice Is pre-eminently black, whatever
the color of the waist. Some Imported
blaok lace gloves seen were stitched at
the back with colors. There was also a
little bias finish of colored kid at the top.
Skeleton Wraps for Deft Fingers
EVERY woman feels tho need of some
sort of an outer wrap as soon as Fall
sets in. The fitted jacket, however, is
still too warm, and when worn usually
means ruination to the delicate bodice
underneath. So Dame Fashion has
stepped in this year with the most charm
ing skoleton jackets, picturesque capes
and becoming ruches to protect mlladl's
neck and shoulders from chill Autumn
So simple are these smart little acces
sories that the home needlewoman can
fashion them quite as easily as the fash
ionable modiste, and with much less ex
pense. The most unique of those light wraps is
a- skeleton jacket which matches the
gown with which it is worn, or lends to
it a harmonious contrasts Its vogue is
largely due to the continued popularity
of the costume dress; that is, the dress
built with skirt and waist of the samo
material. With this chic wrap the effect
of the frock is not lost, as it is when the
bodice is hidden beneath a tailored coat.
Most stunning among these skeleton
jackets is a silk affair built in peau de
sole of supple liberty texture. At the
back two broad pieces of the silk are
gathered from the top of the arm-size
half way across the shoulder seam, end
extend to the center of the waist line,
where they cross. Two large, silk-covered
buttons secure the Junction and the silk
widths end in long, pointed tabs effect
ing a postilion. Similar widths of the silk
falling from the shoulder seams in front,
cross at the oust line and pass around tho
waist, fastening under the silk buttons.
The sleeves ( are Bhort, full jsuffs of the
material reaching halt way to the elbow,
where they are finished with a circle of
silk edged in sawtooth points and orna
mented by a button to match those at the
Sleeves are not essential to these skel
eton wraps. One distinctive garment
which can bo made with or without them
is built of pearl-gray voile lined with
taffeta In self-tone. A double collarette
finished in square corners opens at the
throat in a very small V. From beneath
the lower collar falls a double box-pleat
of the silk-lined voile, fastening blindly
down the front and ending at the waist
line. If sleeves arc desired, the lower col
lar extends squarely out over the shoul
der line and conceals the gatherings of
two short, bobbing ripples of voile which
form the. elbow sleeves. Velvet collar in
delicate Sevres blue, and square silk ro
vers piped with velvet, finish tho neck of
this smart wrap.
Equally as natty are two shoulder capes
of broadcloth. One In thrush brown has
a full gathering of the material dropping
over the shoulders, front and back, in
jabot points It is attached to a pointed
yoke, and is trimmed round the V-shaped
neck and across the bottom of the full
capes, as Troll'as In shaped bands over the
shoulders, with silk Hercules braid.
The other cape is of white broadcloth.
and Is "built on pelerine lines. Two pieces
of the material form short, circular capes
at the back and droop over the shoulders.
Tapering to points at the waist line, they
braid or black volvot. which is fastened
at tho sido with a gilt ring button. Gold
braid or velvet bands terminating in large
ring buttons trim the neck, and a piping
of white lawn or mallne protocts the- deli
cate collar of the frock bonoath. If a
long-walstcd effect is desired, the pointed
ends of the cape should be allowed to
hang straight down like a stole. In this
case a strip of gold or velvet ribbon
emerges from beneath the upper cape at
the bust line on either side. This covers
the onds of the cape, and Is itself finished
with tiny crochet buttons to give It a
smart effect.
Light wraps for more dressy occasions
are built of laco, mallne or chiffon. Par
ticularly etching is a large cape with ool
larless yoke of fagoted taffeta bands.
Around this is gathered very full a short
ruffle of the silk with wide lace Insertion
and heavy lace edging. A band of the
taffota passes over each should or to the
edge of the lace: both front and back is
adorned with a jeweled button at each of
its forked ends.
No less smart for Fall wear are Queen
Elizabeth ruches of mallne. Thoy are not
becomln- however, to a woman with a
short nock. The daintiest of the ruchos
are built from double widths of shaded
mallne laid into stiff box pleats. Many
lengths of inch-wide velvet ribbon in
shadings to match the mallne dangle from
either ond of the ruohe. They are tied at
intervals in loose knots and terminate in
a knot with many loops.
, How to Clean Leather.
The following directions are said to be
very good for cleaning and. polishing
leather: Dip a soft woolen cloth in boil
ing hot milk and wipe tho leather with
this, rubbing gently until' all the dirt is
removed. Then wipe dry with a soft flan
nel. When the leather Is clean go over
the surface with a piece of v flannel on
which is spread a tiny piece of prepared
wax. The wax should be spread over the
cloth as thinly as possible. A'ftor the
waxing go over the -leatherlwlth a clean
soft flannel, rubbing briskly, bet not too
A recipe for this wax Is as follows: Put
two ounces of beeswax cut In small bits
into a bowl. Place the bowl in a pan of
hot wator on the "back of the range.
When the wax is quite soft beat into it
after taking It off the stove a quarter of
a cupful of turpentine and half a tea
spoonful of paraffin oil. It Is ready for
Immediate use.
Gauzy Ruches Used as Trimmings
X important item in the dress allow
ance for tho Fall will be ruchings
and footings for finishing off coats and
blouses. Rumors have been whispered
that they would bo retired, especially as
trimming for neckwear. Far from losing
in favor, however, now that heat docs
not wilt their freshness in one wearing,
they are more in evidence than ever: The
field of their use also has been greatly
widened, and they play a part in ev
erything that pertains to the upper por
tion .of a woman's, costume.
Their particular charm lies in tho soft
ening effect which they lend to the face.
They add the same youthful appearance
to a woman or girl that embroidered and
lace niffllngs do to tho little child.
As a means of titivating a rather worn
J -r
and shabby-looking suit, thoy are a
girl's first and great resource With a
few yards of footing or lingerie quilling
she can transform a halfworn Jacket
into a smart coat, which will make her
look as though she had just stepped from
the proverbial bandbox.
Lawn or linen quillings are the most
appropriate to set off an outside tailored
garment. At the shops these are of
fered In bewildering and tempting ar
ray, but the clever girl evolves them for
herself, making them her fancy work
for odd moments. Widths of sheer,
white linen from two to four inches are
daintily hemstitched by hand. Others
show a rolled hem or a narrow hem
headed by one or two miniature tucks
with perhaps a line of lace beading be
tween. In gatherings of fine knife pleat
lngs, tho quilling is then attached to a
tape or secured inside a llttlo fold or
linen. Folded lightly in a box.- they aro
kept fresh until Just before they are' to
be worn, when they are tacked loosely
undeitho edge of the coat collar, cuffs or
sleeves, and any capes or straps which
may serve as trimming, to the Jacket.
If the quillings aro tacked on the outer
surface of the coat or' cuff they are at
tached to narrow bands of tucking which
runs the width rather than the length of
the ruffling. These seemingly unimpor
tant touches make a girl tho acmo of
triraness when she dons her street cos- j
tume for shopping or calling. '
Ajnore elaborate bit of work for the
girl who uses her needle ia to finish these
teachings with arrowhead points. The
rounding, almost V-shaped scallops are
buttonholed very delicately in mercerizea
cotton or linen thread of spider web fine
ness. Muslin, linen or handkerchief
lawn is employed for the foundation, and
one girl has worked several lengths of
material with scallops of pale blue, pink
and lavender respectively.
Footings of machine and hand embroid
ery will bo used with lavish hand to adorn
plain tailored waists, as well as- tailored
coats. When built of machine embroid
ery, it is a waste of time for a girl to
attempt to make them.- They are sold
for a mere song, and in as pretty pat
terns as anyone could wish for. In the
more expensive qualities they Imitate
hand embroidery perfectly.
Bands of broderle Anglais, or shadow
embroidery, machine made, form the cen
ter of the footing, while the choicest of
Hamburg edging or lace-trimmed muslin
Is gatheied or laid In plaits on either side.
Messallne. organdie and chiffon footings,
lace Inserted and edged, have accordion
pleated ruffles to match, and are charm
ingly gauzy- and fluffy, but extremely per
ishable. A waist needs no other trim
ming than a band of .footing about necx
and sleeves and a single strap down tho
center of the front On a coat, the foot
ing adorns cuffs and collarless neck, and
sometimes conceals vest or edges wide re
vere. .
But the tailore dsuit is only one part
of the wardrobe which requires innumer
able lingerie frllHngs- Medallions, braid
ing and all sorts of appllqued trimmings
on fancy blouses are edged with ruch
ings. Various kinds of laces appear very
generally in the make-up of these softer
frills. -Organdie, mallne net and muslin
de sole form the foundation, finished oft
by Valendermes or Cluny edgings from
a sixtenth to an Inch and a half in width.
These peep from beneath the edges of
embroidered bands or Irregular laco mo
tifs like bits of down, and give the blouse
a touch of exquisite daintiness.
Lastly, no bodice should be without a
band of Immaculate niching about the
neck. (Boxes of half a dozen different
kinds are sold for 23c. These, of course,
are very simple in their makeup. But
there is no end to the lovely, filmy edg
, ins which are employed for the samo
purpose. Vnlencicnnes lace will be used
a great deal. Bias bands of chiffon or
crepe de chine, countless little feathery
puffs and rolls of organdie and veilings,
headed by silk floss and showing all tho
pastel colorings as well as white and
shades of cream, are tacked and pinched
Into fantastic edgings. Black and whito
ruchings show innumerable variations,
one particular edging being a puffing of
black and white plaid.
Things You Ought to
THE word "banquet" formerly meant'
California oranges are now sold extent
sively In London.
Pottery is the oldest and most widely,
known of the human arts.
The total number of bqoks In the world,
is estimated at 4.000.000,000.
In one year this country turns out 1500
books of fiction alone.
Russia leads the world in planting for,
csts; America In devastating them.
The total number of men in the United"
States liable to military service is 11
The Japanese are not good horsemen;
the Russians excel in the cavalry di
Tho naval militias of the several states
comprise 443 ofltcers and 4740 enlisted men.
The total authorized strength of tho
militias of the severalf states Is 17S,7ST
There are 8,SI0,7S9 negroes in the-United'
States, but enly 577 persons of African,
A distinguished scientist estimates tho
ova nf -iViA wnrlrt flt oTvitif !W fYY fVYY voam
The earth weighs, according to scientific;
estimates, 4,613,000,000,000,000 tons avoir
dupois. There are 273 cities and towns in tho
United States having a population of 5000
or more.
Iceland, which is a republic In the lit
eral sense of the word, has no prisons and
no policemen.
In England an engine, after running
50,000 miles in 15 months, is sent to the
"railway hospital" for overhauling.
Peru and Bolivia have the richest silver
mines in the world, there having been
taken over $650,000,000 from the Potosl
mines. In Bolivia alone. -
The salany of the Governor-General of
Canada Is $30,000 a year. Each member,
of the Cabinet is paid $7000 a year except
the Premier, who receives $S0OO.
j. ne Baltimore & Ohio and Pennsylvania,
Railway Companies are spending $14,000,
000 to give Washington city one of the
finest union railway stations in the world.
In 1S00 the center of population in the
United States was six miles southeast of
Columbus, Ind. In 1S0O, 100 "years before,.
It was 18 miles west of Baltimore, Md.
New Orleans has an area of 196 square
miles which is the largest of any city in
the United States except New York. Tho
later has an area of 326-i square miles.
In active service in the United States
Navy there are 1377 commissioned and 463
warrant officers and a force of 23,644 en
listed men. The Marine Corps has 222 of
ficers and 6S21 men.
Railroad property In the United States
has a commercial value of $U,244,852;00O.
Pennsylvania is" at the head of the list,
with a railroad valuation of $1,420,608,000.
Alaskan . railroads have a valuation o
only $100,000.
cross and are attached to & belt of rojd