THE STUSTDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTIA20), SE?TE3EBER 3, 1905. FALL SUGGESTIONS FOR SEPARATE WAISTS THERE'S NO BLOUSE EFFECT THIS SEASON IN THE NEW ODD BODICES ELEGANT STYLES IX SEPARATE WAISTS. SMART EYEItr-DAY EFFECTS. THERE Is no diminution in the pres tige of tho separate waist. That ad mirable little garment, which can be made to suit all times and seasons, is as much exploited as ever among the new styles. If anything, it may bo said to have achieved a more enviable position, for nowadays the odd bodice which Is merely an odd bodice, is scracely counted in the calendar of fashion. The waist, different from the skirt, strives for a modish individuality, and the liner hand made sorts, even in lingerie, might almost appear at court without challenge. The first thing noticed about the new odd bodice is their marked departure from the old blousing lines. There is only the slightest bagging of the front, and this change, with the high girdling and dressy sleeve effects, promotes, in proper materials, a most elegant look. There is a tendency with many dressy models to lengthen the shoulders, through either the trimming or cut. and the back fasten ings most generally employed seem ju venile in the extreme. For this rear fastening is not. confined to the youthful mammas, maiden aunts and even grandmammas going by with the proper complement of back buttons. - Another point with - the ultra-stylish waist is that it fits everywhere more snugly than formerly, and so much is this tautnoss a modish feature that women who buy ready-made bodices now find it necessary to get smaller sizes. For example, wearers who formely took a 3S bust now get 38, and if the bodice is properly made this is amply large. In everyday effects, such waists as fol low shirtwaist lines and are made in shirtwaist materials, tho gigot sleeve is much exploited. This is wrist or three quarter length, with the fullnoss f the top put in with box or side ploats. The sleeve may be in one, or thore may be an uhder-arm piece, and with quite a num ber of the models there is an extra full ness at the elbow, which gives the effect of a top puff and tight forearm. The smaller drawing displays two smart everyday effects with gigot sleeves in the two lengths. The drossioi model is of French flannel, in the new St. Pat rick's blue, with quillings of narrow black satin ribbon. This is put on the front at tlie edges of the button pleat and to edge two wide side tucks which border It. The ribbon also prettily trims the stock and the double cuffs of the three-quarter sleeves. The girdle is of black satin, with a blue and black metal buckle, and the round buttons are in the same material. The second waist, which is of white wool albatross, continues through a red and white plaid, braid a sort of continuity of costume, for the skirt is entirely of red and white plaid wool. A highly orna mental yoke effect is outlined by the braid, the same design and plain bands appearing upon the sleeves. All sorts of soft wool textures vie with soft-finished linens among tho Jatest shirt materials offered, for without a doubt shirtwaists in wash llnem and cottons will be worn the "Winter through. The tub models, which continue to show a marvelous nicety of finish, and hand em broideries and braidings of Indescribable beauty, are undeniably the best Invest ments. These waists, which .are invari ably In white, may be worn with skirts of any color, and the -degree of Immacu late freshness thoy must display gives al ways a look of .bandbox neatnes. For yokes are cut In the garment, but trim mings shape many pointed, round and square yoke effects, and while buttoning at the back, a number of the dressier bodices are trimmed down the front with a vest look In the matter of the drossy bodices, their scope Is unlimited, and though pre sumably odd models, with the. colored one?, effort Is always made to carry out J a look of continuity with the skirts worn. The white waist, whatever Its material, i is at home "with a skirt of any color, bat the bodice with red. blue, rose or green, needs a skirt which at' least repeats, a tpuph' of ojio of those colors, or tee ' the get-up seems very patchy- For fhisroa sori, perhaps, black and wlilteC" waists, which may be worn with smart Waok skirts, have come to represent the very topmost notch of style. Such bodices, which are In liberty, satin, mcssallne, and other soft silks, open frequently ovor chomlsettcs of white embroidered ba tiste, with the delicate unllned stock of these lightly fcatherboned and fitting as tight-as skin. Sometimes there arc also undersleeves of embroidered batiste, they and the guimpe showing tiny ruches of Valenciennes lace, and such a set often offering Itself detached from the bodice, and flaunting a price mark extravagantly high. For the point with these dainty de tails is the faultndss fashion In which thoy are constructed. So there Is nothing for the girl of small means but to get busy and make her own chemisettes and undersleeves. for In all likelihood these protty trappings will be much worn all Wiriter. .r . The . drawing showing five bodices dla. pktys some new effects and materials for drcFsy odd waists. The plaid model at the right of the row of sitting maidens is perhaps- the most novel- of all, for the pattern In this is made by a bluo and black plaid sllklln lng, 'over which blue silk mouseline Is placed. Tho shirred guimpe and under puffs of the elbow sleeves are of white silk, mousscline; tho girdle and aleevo puffs bjue panne, and .the Jabotand sieeve inns 01 me wn11e-.Riourscime.4em-broidoraL. With such a bodice, which la suited to any elegant Autumn and Winter service, a blue silk or velvet skirt would be In-keeping. A stunning waist for a white cloth, skirt Is white rajah silk, with a handsome yoke and cuffs of deep cream guipure. The third bodice is made quaintly long shouldered by three tiny ruffles of silk, which trim the shoulders In a way to ac complish the effect of a bertha. The el bow sleeves with their silk and lace ruffles are very Jaunty, and the front of the lit tle garment shows the ladder of prim bows long used. The yoko Is of French lace, the bows of black and the waist materials proper of black silk, fish net and electric blue messallne. Black Is everywhere a contrasting- note in the new styles, which brings black vel vet ribbon again to the fore as a valuable waist trimming. And the old fashion of contrasting rich shades of blue with black looks, from the many evidences seen, as If this is to be one of the Winter fads. Watteau pink grog-grain silk shapes the fourth waist, whose black velvet girdle and front bows would create the neces sary harmony for a black skirt. Bands of the silk embroidered with black evolve the rest of the effective garniture. The fifth waist Is the most partlfied and likely to be admired of all. It represents one of the r.ew season's daintiest exploits in lace, taffeta silk, and moussellne. all .Othese. materials being combined In: a way to .accomplish a very diaphanous and delicate appearance. The foundation of the bodice Is of apple-blossom pink taf feta silk, over which a complete bodice of pink silk moussellne is put. Over this again is hung white lace applied in a novel yet simple way, with pink, taffeta, and the girdle may be of the same ma terial or of panne. The cut, fit and bccomlngness of the girdle is a very serious point with all dressy waists, for the girdle is in many Instances the main feature. Fashioned upon zone forms or whalebone In these shapes, tire liveliest high belts are still seen of gorgeous ribbons, made even more fiowcrllke with the shirrfngs or rosettes at the rear, and with a splendid buckle of some sort at the front. Such a girdle is extremely becoming to slim figures, and to get tho high modish line without the shortening tendency of ho close belts, stouter figures sometimes have them made In skeleton form, of very narrow black velvet ribbon. A se't consisting of girdle, collar and cuff pieces may also sometimes be found In the shops, made up in a highly orna mental way. These aid the homo dress maker tremendously In the construction of a bodice, and the linen sets which show colored embroideries are really stunning. For very fino waists jeweled buttons will again be a feature of the Wlntor, and the more splendid of these will be In the form of a large single stone set simply In a rim of metal. On a bodice of green place were buttons of genuine Montana sapphires in a paler shade, which seemed as glorious as diamonds. The short neck chains of huge beads, made of composition materials to look like, wood, will also bo worn, in matching colors, with the smartest bodices; $3.50 is the price of such necklaces In their best shapes, and they are seen in all of the, delicate colors as well as white and black. The finish is dull thU3 giving a Roman pearl look to the tender, pinks and. bluos. Apropos of very fine bodices,, authori tative advices state that a number of the waists for gauze and lace evening frocks will be made with habit tails. One of Irish lace, with tiny revcrs, was de scribed as worn over a rosercolored che misette caught in at the- waist with a corselet belt of soft willow green, with three tails of the green alternating with tails of lace. Irish lace butterflies, with green silky bodies, decked tho front of the moussellne vest In lieu of buttons. The shortness of the fino bodice sleeves has also revived the taste for bracelets, which are to be worn in enormous num bers. The new styles In these include many coin bangle sorts, and pliable gold hoops, set brooch fashion the oval or round ornament often showing a single brilliant stone. The modish glove for the short-sleeved bodice Is pre-eminently black, whatever the color of the waist. Some Imported blaok lace gloves seen were stitched at the back with colors. There was also a little bias finish of colored kid at the top. MARY DEAN. T" Skeleton Wraps for Deft Fingers EVERY woman feels tho need of some sort of an outer wrap as soon as Fall sets in. The fitted jacket, however, is still too warm, and when worn usually means ruination to the delicate bodice underneath. So Dame Fashion has stepped in this year with the most charm ing skoleton jackets, picturesque capes and becoming ruches to protect mlladl's neck and shoulders from chill Autumn winds. So simple are these smart little acces sories that the home needlewoman can fashion them quite as easily as the fash ionable modiste, and with much less ex pense. The most unique of those light wraps is a- skeleton jacket which matches the gown with which it is worn, or lends to it a harmonious contrasts Its vogue is largely due to the continued popularity of the costume dress; that is, the dress built with skirt and waist of the samo material. With this chic wrap the effect of the frock is not lost, as it is when the bodice is hidden beneath a tailored coat. Most stunning among these skeleton jackets is a silk affair built in peau de sole of supple liberty texture. At the back two broad pieces of the silk are gathered from the top of the arm-size half way across the shoulder seam, end extend to the center of the waist line, where they cross. Two large, silk-covered buttons secure the Junction and the silk widths end in long, pointed tabs effect ing a postilion. Similar widths of the silk falling from the shoulder seams in front, cross at the oust line and pass around tho waist, fastening under the silk buttons. The sleeves ( are Bhort, full jsuffs of the material reaching halt way to the elbow, where they are finished with a circle of silk edged in sawtooth points and orna mented by a button to match those at the back. Sleeves are not essential to these skel eton wraps. One distinctive garment which can bo made with or without them is built of pearl-gray voile lined with taffeta In self-tone. A double collarette finished in square corners opens at the throat in a very small V. From beneath the lower collar falls a double box-pleat of the silk-lined voile, fastening blindly down the front and ending at the waist line. If sleeves arc desired, the lower col lar extends squarely out over the shoul der line and conceals the gatherings of two short, bobbing ripples of voile which form the. elbow sleeves. Velvet collar in delicate Sevres blue, and square silk ro vers piped with velvet, finish tho neck of this smart wrap. Equally as natty are two shoulder capes of broadcloth. One In thrush brown has a full gathering of the material dropping over the shoulders, front and back, in jabot points It is attached to a pointed yoke, and is trimmed round the V-shaped neck and across the bottom of the full capes, as Troll'as In shaped bands over the shoulders, with silk Hercules braid. The other cape is of white broadcloth. and Is "built on pelerine lines. Two pieces of the material form short, circular capes at the back and droop over the shoulders. Tapering to points at the waist line, they braid or black volvot. which is fastened at tho sido with a gilt ring button. Gold braid or velvet bands terminating in large ring buttons trim the neck, and a piping of white lawn or mallne protocts the- deli cate collar of the frock bonoath. If a long-walstcd effect is desired, the pointed ends of the cape should be allowed to hang straight down like a stole. In this case a strip of gold or velvet ribbon emerges from beneath the upper cape at the bust line on either side. This covers the onds of the cape, and Is itself finished with tiny crochet buttons to give It a smart effect. Light wraps for more dressy occasions are built of laco, mallne or chiffon. Par ticularly etching is a large cape with ool larless yoke of fagoted taffeta bands. Around this is gathered very full a short ruffle of the silk with wide lace Insertion and heavy lace edging. A band of the taffota passes over each should or to the edge of the lace: both front and back is adorned with a jeweled button at each of its forked ends. No less smart for Fall wear are Queen Elizabeth ruches of mallne. Thoy are not becomln- however, to a woman with a short nock. The daintiest of the ruchos are built from double widths of shaded mallne laid into stiff box pleats. Many lengths of inch-wide velvet ribbon in shadings to match the mallne dangle from either ond of the ruohe. They are tied at intervals in loose knots and terminate in a knot with many loops. , How to Clean Leather. The following directions are said to be very good for cleaning and. polishing leather: Dip a soft woolen cloth in boil ing hot milk and wipe tho leather with this, rubbing gently until' all the dirt is removed. Then wipe dry with a soft flan nel. When the leather Is clean go over the surface with a piece of v flannel on which is spread a tiny piece of prepared wax. The wax should be spread over the cloth as thinly as possible. A'ftor the waxing go over the -leatherlwlth a clean soft flannel, rubbing briskly, bet not too hard. A recipe for this wax Is as follows: Put two ounces of beeswax cut In small bits into a bowl. Place the bowl in a pan of hot wator on the "back of the range. When the wax is quite soft beat into it after taking It off the stove a quarter of a cupful of turpentine and half a tea spoonful of paraffin oil. It Is ready for Immediate use. Gauzy Ruches Used as Trimmings A: X important item in the dress allow ance for tho Fall will be ruchings and footings for finishing off coats and blouses. Rumors have been whispered that they would bo retired, especially as trimming for neckwear. Far from losing in favor, however, now that heat docs not wilt their freshness in one wearing, they are more in evidence than ever: The field of their use also has been greatly widened, and they play a part in ev erything that pertains to the upper por tion .of a woman's, costume. Their particular charm lies in tho soft ening effect which they lend to the face. They add the same youthful appearance to a woman or girl that embroidered and lace niffllngs do to tho little child. As a means of titivating a rather worn "3 J -r SKELETON" WRAFS TOR FALL DATS and shabby-looking suit, thoy are a girl's first and great resource With a few yards of footing or lingerie quilling she can transform a halfworn Jacket into a smart coat, which will make her look as though she had just stepped from the proverbial bandbox. Lawn or linen quillings are the most appropriate to set off an outside tailored garment. At the shops these are of fered In bewildering and tempting ar ray, but the clever girl evolves them for herself, making them her fancy work for odd moments. Widths of sheer, white linen from two to four inches are daintily hemstitched by hand. Others show a rolled hem or a narrow hem headed by one or two miniature tucks with perhaps a line of lace beading be tween. In gatherings of fine knife pleat lngs, tho quilling is then attached to a tape or secured inside a llttlo fold or linen. Folded lightly in a box.- they aro kept fresh until Just before they are' to be worn, when they are tacked loosely undeitho edge of the coat collar, cuffs or sleeves, and any capes or straps which may serve as trimming, to the Jacket. If the quillings aro tacked on the outer surface of the coat or' cuff they are at tached to narrow bands of tucking which runs the width rather than the length of the ruffling. These seemingly unimpor tant touches make a girl tho acmo of triraness when she dons her street cos- j tume for shopping or calling. ' Ajnore elaborate bit of work for the girl who uses her needle ia to finish these teachings with arrowhead points. The rounding, almost V-shaped scallops are buttonholed very delicately in mercerizea cotton or linen thread of spider web fine ness. Muslin, linen or handkerchief lawn is employed for the foundation, and one girl has worked several lengths of material with scallops of pale blue, pink and lavender respectively. Footings of machine and hand embroid ery will bo used with lavish hand to adorn plain tailored waists, as well as- tailored coats. When built of machine embroid ery, it is a waste of time for a girl to attempt to make them.- They are sold for a mere song, and in as pretty pat terns as anyone could wish for. In the more expensive qualities they Imitate hand embroidery perfectly. Bands of broderle Anglais, or shadow embroidery, machine made, form the cen ter of the footing, while the choicest of Hamburg edging or lace-trimmed muslin Is gatheied or laid In plaits on either side. Messallne. organdie and chiffon footings, lace Inserted and edged, have accordion pleated ruffles to match, and are charm ingly gauzy- and fluffy, but extremely per ishable. A waist needs no other trim ming than a band of .footing about necx and sleeves and a single strap down tho center of the front On a coat, the foot ing adorns cuffs and collarless neck, and sometimes conceals vest or edges wide re vere. . But the tailore dsuit is only one part of the wardrobe which requires innumer able lingerie frllHngs- Medallions, braid ing and all sorts of appllqued trimmings on fancy blouses are edged with ruch ings. Various kinds of laces appear very generally in the make-up of these softer frills. -Organdie, mallne net and muslin de sole form the foundation, finished oft by Valendermes or Cluny edgings from a sixtenth to an Inch and a half in width. These peep from beneath the edges of embroidered bands or Irregular laco mo tifs like bits of down, and give the blouse a touch of exquisite daintiness. Lastly, no bodice should be without a band of Immaculate niching about the neck. (Boxes of half a dozen different kinds are sold for 23c. These, of course, are very simple in their makeup. But there is no end to the lovely, filmy edg , ins which are employed for the samo purpose. Vnlencicnnes lace will be used a great deal. Bias bands of chiffon or crepe de chine, countless little feathery puffs and rolls of organdie and veilings, headed by silk floss and showing all tho pastel colorings as well as white and shades of cream, are tacked and pinched Into fantastic edgings. Black and whito ruchings show innumerable variations, one particular edging being a puffing of black and white plaid. Things You Ought to Know THE word "banquet" formerly meant' dessert. California oranges are now sold extent sively In London. Pottery is the oldest and most widely, known of the human arts. The total number of bqoks In the world, is estimated at 4.000.000,000. In one year this country turns out 1500 books of fiction alone. Russia leads the world in planting for, csts; America In devastating them. The total number of men in the United" States liable to military service is 11 126750. The Japanese are not good horsemen; the Russians excel in the cavalry di vision. Tho naval militias of the several states comprise 443 ofltcers and 4740 enlisted men. The total authorized strength of tho militias of the severalf states Is 17S,7ST men. There are 8,SI0,7S9 negroes in the-United' States, but enly 577 persons of African, birth. A distinguished scientist estimates tho ova nf -iViA wnrlrt flt oTvitif !W fYY fVYY voam The earth weighs, according to scientific; estimates, 4,613,000,000,000,000 tons avoir dupois. There are 273 cities and towns in tho United States having a population of 5000 or more. Iceland, which is a republic In the lit eral sense of the word, has no prisons and no policemen. In England an engine, after running 50,000 miles in 15 months, is sent to the "railway hospital" for overhauling. Peru and Bolivia have the richest silver mines in the world, there having been taken over $650,000,000 from the Potosl mines. In Bolivia alone. - The salany of the Governor-General of Canada Is $30,000 a year. Each member, of the Cabinet is paid $7000 a year except the Premier, who receives $S0OO. j. ne Baltimore & Ohio and Pennsylvania, Railway Companies are spending $14,000, 000 to give Washington city one of the finest union railway stations in the world. In 1S00 the center of population in the United States was six miles southeast of Columbus, Ind. In 1S0O, 100 "years before,. It was 18 miles west of Baltimore, Md. New Orleans has an area of 196 square miles which is the largest of any city in the United States except New York. Tho later has an area of 326-i square miles. In active service in the United States Navy there are 1377 commissioned and 463 warrant officers and a force of 23,644 en listed men. The Marine Corps has 222 of ficers and 6S21 men. Railroad property In the United States has a commercial value of $U,244,852;00O. Pennsylvania is" at the head of the list, with a railroad valuation of $1,420,608,000. Alaskan . railroads have a valuation o only $100,000. cross and are attached to & belt of rojd