The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, September 03, 1905, PART FOUR, Page 42, Image 42

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P'RST cool dns at fashionable Autumn
resorts bring out n end of stunning
suits straight from Parisian tailors.
.Exquisite In the rich tones of falling
leaves and changing rfirwbbery, Vschoee
of these smart garments roach Mlladi
'who has returned to city life and rouse i
her to the realization; that Fall and
fashions are once more at hand.
The tailored suit is of flrst considera
tl6n in the wardrobe, and it he the goftn
above all others which determines n
woman's smart appearance. Otlmr
frocks may be unsatisfactory or oven
fail to materialise because of tightonlng
purse-strings, but a weil-ftUted, up-to-date
coat and skirt makes a wraan feoi
that she is properly dreoeed for any and
all occasions.
4ust at present details of this all im
portant costume are what most concern
the feminine world. What is to be the
length of the coat? Are the skirts to
remain at a comfortable walking length,
and is the short sleeve to be retired for
Fall wear? First fashion breezes from
Paris have settled many of these ques
tions. The coat for the tailored suit will Uko
onepf two extremes. It will be cither
very ohort or very long on redingote
lines. Boleros with fancy vests will be
worn much in the early Fall days, but
the woman who is choosing: hor suit to
last All "Winter should select a snug
flttlng Jacket, finished with either pos
tilion back or rippling peplum, or with
a skirt attached which roaches to the
ankles. Postilion tails are docidedly in
evidence on the latest modols. Fitted
girdles seen on last season's coats ex
tend bolow the short jacket and give the
long-walsted effect so much sought
after.
Stunning as is the redingote on a state
ly figure, the majority of women should
think twice before selecting one. They
will be especially trying this Fall because
of the extra fullness in the skirt. TwoH
models stand out noticeably as being
fashioned on the approved lines. Ono is
a Princess effect with bolero outlined in
braid, and the other bears tho 'stamp of
the Summer's silk redingote. From the
bust lino it is shaped snugly to the figure
TPHE average housewife ''has little use
1 for the late garden vegetables, chiefly
because she does not know how to offer
them In tempting guise. They shrivel up
in tho September sun or are packed away
by the market gardener to be sold in mid
winter, when, with some care in their
preparation, they could be made quite as
toothsome as the other Summer vege
tables, while they aro iu season.
Most uninviting among Fall legumes are
turnips. They arc watery when cooked
alone and have very little taste. Several
potatoes boiled and mashed together with
them, however, change their flavor and
render them a most palatable dish.
Cooked after a Gorman recipe they are
even more delicious. Cut .tho turnips' Into
dice and wash them carefully after they
have been neeled. Heat two tables nonn-
fuls of oil in a frying-pan, put in the"!
turnips and shako over the fire until they
are a golden brown. Dump them into
another saucepan, cover with soup stock
mutton stock preferred and boll for half
an hour, "When tender, allow the turnip
dice to drain on a colander while pre
paring the following sauce: To a pint
of the stock In which they were boiled,
add a paste made from two tablcspoon
fuls of butter and two tablespoonfuls of
flour. As soon as the stock comes to a
boll, add a teaspoonful of salt and a
dash of pepper.
Swedish turnips or rutabagas arc most
tasty when beaten and mashed together
with sweet potatoes. Pare and slice two
turnips and cook in uncalled water until
perfect'y tender, not allowing the water
to reach the bohlng point. -Now remove
the centers fronv four baked sweet pota
toes, add them to the turnips and season
wltn one tablespoonful of butter, a salt
spoonful of salt and a dash of pepper.
"Whip the ingredients until very light and
brewn in a quick oven for 20 minutes.
As a separate course, turnips are pared
How to Cook the Late Vegetables
by Inverted plaits, which open out Just
below the hips into a ?err full skirt.
The style of the sleeve is no less pro
nounced than the coat which it finishes.
Leg-o'-mutton effects, pliited and tucked
and strapped to do away 'with any extra
fullness, are unquestionably the sleeves
for tlie tailored coat. Forevery-day wear
Jackets show a tlght-fittlig cuff from el
bow to wrist, 4built as snugly as the
under sleeve will allow. Elbow sleeves
arc worn with the more dressy style of
coat, although the plain jacket has a
simulated short sleeve ending In a tight
cufT.
In the matter of skirls, the very much
plaited Jupe has by nq means gone out
of favor. Short skirts particularly dis
play plaited effects, many of them being
stitched down half way to the knees,
while others are pressed iij stiff box plaits
quite to the edge of the skirt. AH are
shaped snugly around the hips and have
no sign of any opening at the baclc There
is no doubt, howevor, that the very smart
est skirts are cut on circular lines and
rest slightly on the flooj Carefully fitted
darts shape them tightly in at the waist
line, and they are flnlshid at the back
with side plaits, closing down the front
or at the side of the " frpnt in a scam
concealed beneath straps. or plaits. The
double-flounce skirt has, a place also in
"Winter fashions, but lfko tho; redingote,
it is distinctly for the tat woman. Fin
ished in deep scallops. he upper flounce
reaches almost .to the, hem of a full
under-fiounce and simulates a tunic
Two of the most popular materials for
and sliced a quarter -! an inch thick,
and cooked in unsaltcd water until they
are as transparent as glass. Arrange on
a flat dl&h with one slice overlapping the
other. Serve with tht 'following thick
sauce: For half a do:cn small turnips
allow a tablespoonful bf flour and one
of butter. Bring to a boil in a cup of
hot water. Remove from the fire and
beat in the yolks of tst-o eggs. Season
with a small onion, otb bay leaf, four
tablespoonfuls of vlnega.a. tablespoonful
of salt and a dash of p '-j. which have
been boiled rapidly to mE" their quan
tity one-half. Allow thc'stSice to thicken
oer the firo a few moments before add
ing tiie seasoning. '
The big yellow pumpkin Is seldom used
except in making pies. It furnishes a
splendid variant. howoTer, to the other
Fall vegetables when properly cooked.
Timbale of Pumpkld.--One pint of
stewed and sifted pumpkin, one table
spoonful of butter, four eggs beaen. half
a cuprul of sugar, one-fourth teaspoonful
of ginger, half a teaspoonful of cinna
mon and half a pint of milk. Pour into
buttered molds. Set in a pan of water
in a moderate oven until firm. When the
tuubales are cold., unmold and serve with
whlppod cream.
To bake pumpkin, cut 'a 'large gourd in
half and remove the setds from one side,
leaving the other for some future use.
Lay in a pan. skin sldq- down and bake
for three-quarters of ran hour. Care
should be taken that the Oven is not hot
enough to discolor tho skin. Cut In small
pieces and serve with butter, salt and
pepper. This dish is especially -delicious
when the pumpkin has been picked fresh
from the garden. '
A near relative of. the, imoipldn is tho
"Winter squash, though ? it lends Itself
more toothsomely to a vcgetaVio course.
Panned -Squash. Bemofc the rind from
a squash, cut into oblong pieces and boll
slowly for 20 minutes. Place on a colan
der until they are thoroughly drained
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN; PORTLAM), SEPTEMBER- 3, 1905.
THE COAT WILL BE EITHERJERY
cwr tfZLOcm
the first of the season will be heavy,
rough pongcos and English mohairs.
Broadcloth Is more silky than tivcr In
weavos as supple as liberty satin. In
fact, all the now materials are so soft
and pliable that they are spoken of under
their own name, preceded by the word
chiffon. ChlfTon velour Is the velvet for
the Winter, and It partakes of the sup
pleness and pliability of the broadcloth.
The girl of moderate Income, however.
and then put them in layers on a baking
dish. Cover each layer with a dusting
of sugar and tiny hits of butter. Pour
half a cup of water Into the bottom of
the dish, fasten on the cover and bake
slowly for an hour. The squash should
be transparent when it is done.
Baked squash Is delicious rolled into
balls and friend In fat. Tho gourd is
baked according to recipe given for pump
kin. As soon as the pulp is quite tonder
press through a colander. To this mash
add half a cup of soft bread crumbs, one
loaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper and
one tablespoonful of butter. Stir the in
gredients together woll over the fire and
turn out to cool. Form into halls, roll In
cracker crumbs and fry in boiling fat.
Stuffed Cabbage. Cleanse, soak and boll
a large, ilrm heau of cabbage until ten
der. Scrape out the inside, leaving enough
for a solid outer wall. "With tho scrap
ings mix a cup of fine bread crumbs, a
little salt, pepper and celery seed and
one small onion cut fine. Beat this up
with a tablespoonful of butter and three
eggs. Fill tho cabbage with stuffing, tie
around It a strip of cloth and bake until
brown.
Cold Slaw with Sour Cream Sauce Cut
a small, sound head Of cabbage in halves
and chop very fine. Soak In cold water
for an hour to remove any insects that
zany be between the leaves. When thor
ouhgly cleansed, drain and serve with the
following sauce: Bring two tablespoon
fuls of vinegar to the boiling point jilx
half a cup of sour cream with the well
beaten whites of two eggs. Stir this into
the vinegar with one tablespoonful of
butter and allow it to thicken. Season
with salt and peppor. pour over the cab
bage and stand it aside to cool.
Cabbage en Casserole. Chop one head
of cabbage fine, clean It thoroughly and
boil in salted water for 20 minutes. When
cooked spread it out to dry. Make half
a pint of sauce with butter, milk and
Hour. Spread a layer of cabbage In the
ON
arrap 'czwww
should choose a good quality of velveteen
rather than the more expensive and less
durable velours. Serges, cheviots and
Irish frteze arc rough in texture and
appear in unpretentious plaids and checks
in two tones
Browns, especially thrush and cinnamon
brown, will be favorite colors. Gray con
tinues its vogue of the Spring, and rich
shades of mahogany and fucttMa red will
be worn by women whose dresses are
casserole, then a layer of sauce, 'and
sprinkle over it some grated cheese. Con
tinue these layers, finishing off the. top
of tho dish with several tablespoonfuls
of bread crumbs. Bake for 20 minutes
&tu sorve In the casserole.
Carrots in combination with turnips are
served in the following way: Scrape two
carrots and cut Into dice. Boll until ten
dor. Pare one turnip, slice and boll until
tender. Sorve the carrots and turnips
mixed together with this sauce: Boll to
gether one bay leaf and a tablespoonful
of chopped onion In two tablespoonfuls
of vinegar. Strain and add to a gravy
made from two tablespoonfuls of butter
and one of flour mixed with half a pint
of boiling water. Remove from the fire
and beat in the yolks of two eggs. Heat
once more an3 season with salt and pep
per and finely chopped parsley.
Green Corn Salad.
The possibilities of green corn as a
salad do not seem to be known to many
restaurants or housekeepers, hut properly
prepared nothing la more palatable. The
corn should first be boiled until well
done -and then cut from the cob with a
sharp knife and allowed to cool. When
thoroughly cold, mix. with sliced cucum
bers, string beans, finely sliced young
onions and asparagus tips. Mix thor
oughly with a French dressing and put
Into a bowl lined with lettuce leaves.
Corn and apples mixed together make a
delicious salad, and the cold corn alone
with letture hearts Is very appetizing
served with mayonnaise. A succotash
salad of corn and beans .with a French
dressing made with tarragon vinegar
makes a fine relish for a Summer meaL
London's 3rornlnt Crowd.
. Exchange.
In the London morning rush hours, be
fore 10:30 o'clock, the number of persons
who entered Hhe city by train and omni
bus from the suburbs on a recent day
when they were officially counted was:
From the west, 77.S9S; from the north,
115.109; from the east, 121,179; from the
southeast. 113.S5; from the southwest,
S2.S37. Total, 516,175. - '
Or THD TMLrOR
REDINGOTE
not intended for more than one season.
An imported suit of cheviot in light
mahogany embraces many of the dis
tinctive features of the-smart coat and
skirt. The double skirt has a tight-fitting
tunic overskirt which falls sir Inches
above tho.hem of the under flounce. This
tunic opens down the front In four grad
uated folds of the material on either side,
which come to sharp corners at the foot
of the tunic and encircle its lower edge.
Similar folds are set in nt the bust lino
of a short, tight-fitting basque and also
rhape a point at' the top of scant leg-o'-mutton
sleeves. Finishing the back and
sides of the jacket, a abort-fitted" peplum
ON returning to town after a Summer
outing everything about a home
seems cramped and crowded. The walls
of the little apartment or city house
seem to have contracted and the furni
ture grown more bulky after -the free
dom of outdoor life, or perhaps tho room
iness of a big farmhouse in the country
Dresses are ripped, coats torn and tem
pers badly disarranged because the fam
ily has got out of the habit of living
by checkerboard rules moving one king
to make way foe another.
A wonderful boon to persons who must
conform to these smaller quarters are
the numberloss new devices in condensed
furniture which have made their appear
ance this Fall. Thero Is an especial
wealth of variety In foldlngbeds. One
late model shows a box couch with high
back, luxuriously upholstered in leather
or tapestry. When ready for uso at night,
the back, of the couch slides to the op
posite side, bringing up a double bed with
comfortable mattress and sheets and
blankets neatly spread and tucked In.
Putting the pillows into place and rais
ing head and foot railings converts the
couch into an Iron bedstead.
Another foldlngbed has the head and'
foot of Iron bars which close up like a
streetcar gate. The mattress and springs
tie up flatly against the wall and are
covered by a pretty denim or sllkollne
curtain. Still a third bed has a sideboard
and writing desk combined with it. Dur
ing the day a large glass cabinet sur
mounts what looks to be a broad chest,
of which a panel drops down, showing
pigeonholes, etc At night the chest pulls
straight out, without any lifting or haul
ing, and spreads forth a comfortable bed
on strong springs. The new condensed
Iron cots are also a splendid way of
gaining space in the daytime when beds
are not 'in use.
Aside from these novel foldlngbedi,
Odd Furnishings for Small Homes
SHORT OR. VERY
LINE:
curves gracefully up to the under arm
seams. A low-cut vest of silk inside
rolling revcrs of braided white broadcloth
closes the basque while stitched straps
of the material with cloth-covered but
tons outline the length of the sleeves.
For a middle-aged woman a becoming
jacket with rippling peplum Is built of
gunmeteal broadcloth. Bishop sleeves
terminate at the elbow in tight-fitting
cuffs. Both tho front of the jacket and
the skirt show inverted box plaits. A
shaped belt of the broadcloth accentuates
the waist line and is trimmed with motifs
and buttons built from soutache braid,
which also ornaments a short shoulder
cape ami Beam at the back -of the jacket.
Silk military braid In double rows finishes
the bottom of the skirt and the fichu
ends of the Jacket-cape at the front.
A striking- example of a long-skirted
coat is in silver gray broadcloth. Very
fine shlrrings of this supplo fabric give a
Princess effect to the redingote, the full
ness being released at the hips to fall in
graceful ripples over the long skirt of the
suit. Let in at the shoulder seams are
gatherings of broadcloth edged on either
side by silk Hercules braid In silver gray.
They form the only decoration for the
front of the coat and terminate at the
waist line in cocardes of gray silk with
an antique silver button at the heart ot
each. Silk braid and rosette buttons finish
the coat sleeves.
Tremendously .chic for a youthful1 figure
is a coat, and skirt of blue-and -white
chests of drawers, hatracks, etc., are built
long to stand snugly against the wall.
They have very little width and no bulg
ing fronts. On this order is a rack of
dark oak with beveled mirror In square
frame supporting many books,- while un
derneath Is a series of shelves wide
enough to receive a hat, shut In by two
folding doors.
A more decorative rack incloses the
hooks in a case of leaded glass. The
lower part Is a huge settee, the seat of
which lifts to disclose an enormous box
for rubbers, gaiters, etc. Where closet
room is lacking In a house; these con
densed racks 'for the hall will hold many
outer garments. Box settees, without
Some Prolific Writers of Sacred Songs
WONDER Is always expressed and
doubts arise when the statement Is
made that the Rev. Charles Wesley? a
clergyman .of the Church of England,
actually wrote 7000 hymns during his life
time. This statement is verified by the
publication over his own signature of 39
books of poetry, sacred ana secular. It
Is doubtful if there, exists a hymn book
adopted by any religious denomination
which does not contain several of his
sacred songs.
Thomas Moore wrote very few sacred
songs, but of these few one stands out
pre-eminent and will bo sung till time be
no more by the people of this whole
earth- The song that always reaches the
heart Is "Come, Ye Disconsolate," found
In almost every hymn book and never ac
credited to the author.
The Rev. Charles Wesley must have
fcten writing hymn air his life, and It Is
inADE
striped serge. At the head of the hem
of the Jupe are laid oblong motifs made
from strips of the material joined In
points at the middle. A band of this
same trimming outlines the collarless
neck and extends down to the left bust.
From this point tho jacket buttons diag
onally ovir to the right, each side of the
coat sfop'itg off to ihcunder-arm scam,
at the walit lire to eveal a pointed satin
girdle. A t.ght-fltting fieplum passes
around tl back and curves up gently to
meet the edges of the coat.
The velvet suit promises to be as much
of a favorite this year as last, and its
new suppleness renders It extremely de-.
sirable for Autumn wear. A model which
is suited to stout and thin alike has .a
coat of slightly blouslng bolero effect, en
tering a deep pointed girdle of satin.
At the- center of the back tho seam. qC
the bolero lengthens over the girdle Into
a plaited postilion that reaches nearly
half, way down the skirt. Light-colored
broadcloth embroidered in French knots
and soutache braid forms the vest and
also the wristband for a turnback velvet
cuff. Cordlngs of satin encircle the neck
and make a heading for tne hem of the
skirt.
No less jaunty is a su?t of cinnamon
brown velour. The skirt Is built with cir
cular yoke-whlch falls in a straight seam
to the bottom of the skirt In front. At
tached to this yoke and shaped over the
hips by double plaits, the Jupe hangs
very full about the feet, barely clearing
the ground. The short jacket opens with
graduated, stitched folds of the velvet on
either side. A satin girdle shapes it to
the waist and rings of soutache braid on
white broadcloth discs trim cuffs- and
Miliar TfATHRRTMR AN'nERHflK.
the upper rack, are also Indispensable
in the hall of a small city house or flat.
Bureaus of silver gray maple are con
structed on similar compact lines, so that'
they do not extend far out into the room.
A tall mirror surmounts one side of the
two long drawers, while a succession of
little drawers on the other side reaches
to tho top of .the beveled glass.
If a washstand 13 required In a bed
room, one very neat arrangement cjrm
blnes It with a desk. At the back a lank
of water docs away with the necessity of
a pitcher, and waste fails Into a pall
underneath the bowl. When not in use
as a washstand. the cover drops down
and makes an extremely attractive desk
of bird's-eye maple.
recorded of him that he wrote on horse
back, while traveling from place to place
upon his duties in the church. In those
days graphite pencils and flowing pens
were unknown." and he wrote w'ith a piece
of soft lead he always carried with him
on any old scrap of paper. He lived to
be 0 years of age, and was born in 1708.
The fact is that Wesley commenced
writing- his sacred hymns at the age of 29.
The Methodist hymn book in this coun
try, as well as the Wesleyan hymn book
In England, being so replete with the
hymns of Charles Wesley Is accounted for
by the fact that both Charles' and his
brother John were clergymen of the'
Church of England, but John, taking ex
ception to some part of the ritual of that
church, went but to preach to the multi
tudes, and after he had organized what
tudes, and after he had organized what
his brother Charles joined him and wrote
the hymnal, to which was added the fan
vorlte- hymns ofother sacred writers.