4:2
DEATH is no respecter of times nor
seasons. "When his gaunt ligure
stalks in at the door in the mldpt of
Summer gayetles, all plans for further
pleasures fiy out at the window. The
wardrobe whrch had been thought out so
carefully In Spring's promising woeks to
last well into the Fall no longer has any
value. The problem of forcing Winter
fashions confronts the bereaved woman.
In selecting mourning garb, the ques
tion of modes undoubtedly presents itself
In this year of 1905 as it never has be
fore. "Putting on black" no longer moans
donning stiff, unbecoming garments,
which make the wearer look as if the last
ray of hope hod departed forever. With
the new idea that friends do not leave us
-xhen they die, but that their gentle in
fluences are around us always, has come
!a new era In the method of showing
grief over mere physical separation.
Very deep mourning, as represented by
i crepe. Is worn only by the closest rela-
Itives. and then for a short interval.
Where crepe Is employed In any way, not
I one bit of brilliancy should be allowed to
appear in any part of the cqstume. Jf
silk or chiffon is worn, if must have an
extremely dull finish. . Gloves must be of
undressed kid. shoes of the dullest leathor.
and the only form of Jewelry permissi
ble Is the dead Jet. There Is but one' re-
lieving note for deep mourning and that Is
I white crepe. This is employed to .soften
an otherwise severe hat or to finish the
iccK and sleeves of a blouse.
Among some late models of graceful.
becoming hats and bonnets for the early
senoa of mourning is a wide-brimmed
shape evolved from fold UDon fold of
ater-proof crepe. Quills of crepe and
crepe bow adorn the front of the crown
md extend to the loft side, where they
neet the partially upturned brim. At the
sack of the hat the brim is shaped down
to the head, and from it falls two large
squares of silk net bordered by six-Inch
folds of crepe.
Another mourning hat Is built on th
torpedoboat shape, which has nroven to
(e so becoming to certain faces.. A wide.
... ami rosene oi crepe trims
he left side and an all-crepe veil, with
hignt-inch hem. falls from the cantr nt
Ehe crown over the back of the hat in
abot folds to the waistline.
Bonnets for holding homn. n
... O UCJIC VUilS
J re built on quite as becoming lines. A
i paiwr moaei lor an older woman is
ii me enape or a Marie Stuart toque.
I he UDtUrned "hrm nt ..iy.
IL, -vj;, nuiuu gives
he effect of a low diadem, and the rim
I uic uunnei, wnicn nts the head, arc
tudded with dead Jet beads as large as
Hot -Weather
i HIS is the month during which
physicians at Summer resorts, as
well as in town, reap the srreatest
Iroflts from the follies of the Summer
irL Many a girl can save herself an
oyance and suffering by stopping to
unK twice before she acts in tho ln-
tirest of what she calls pleasure. There
re also many trifling Summer ailments
finch a girl can treat without the aid
If the family physician, for many girls
gway from home do not like to consult
strange practitioner. ,
Perhaps the Summer ailment whlcix
xuses unhapplness to the largest
lumber of girls is excessive perspira-
!on. This may be divided into two
asses, odorless or natural persnira-
jon and the malodorous sort, which' is
piuvi a. uioccusB m juseji. or a symptom
-TSftfilness.
I Some girls are annoyed only by ex-
pslvc perspiration in the palm of tho
ind. Wiien this girl washes her hands
lie should uso bay rum or alcohol in
pe water, dry them thorouc-hK' .m.l
ten bathe them with' this lotion: Elgrft
rains tannic acid to four fluid ounces
nay rum. She snould never attempt
wear kid irloves in Summer, as .on
ppearance will ruin these irloves and
Inder them useless. White or tan
lored fabric rloves aro better for this
Irl than black silk, as she is peculiarly
toject to poisoning from the dye in
e black glove.
jThe girl whose feet perspire exces-
frexy .ana eimt an unpleasant odor
ould dust 'them with this powder
-W7TJ
uf
sir
the thumb-nail. For young widows both
hats and bonnets are faced with white
crepe, A striking example of an all
white mourning hat shows a wide brim
covered by two circular pieces of white
silk net edged with narrow folds of white
crepe. Bands of white crepe make up the
crown and a huge, wide-spreading bow ol
the crppe finishes it in front
Ailments and
after washing, rubbing it well between
the tees: Two scruples of salicylic
acid, one-half ounce of powdered
starch, two and one-half ounces of
powdered talcum. The feet should be
bathed night and morning with water
in which alum has been dissolved. They
should then bo dried thoroughly and
dusted with the powder whoso for
mula has been given above, or if there
is no odor merely excessive perspira
tion, the plain talcum or starch powder
may be used.
The stockings should bo changed at
least twice a day, and it is a very
easy matter for tho girl to rinse out
her stockings each time after they are
worn. She must have a variety of shoes
also, so that her footwear may be dry
and well aired. When the feet show a
tendency to swell and become tender,
these sensations can be relieved by a
nightly foot bath in tepid soda wator.
Excessive perspiration in the region
of the armpit causes many bitter tears
for the girl of dainty tastes. All the
talcum powder in the world would not
relieve this affliction. It must be treat
ed internallj'. and quite frequently it
can be traced to weakness, for which
a tonic prescribed by the family phy
sician should bo used.
Bathing the axilla or hollow under
tfie arm with a strong solution of bay
rum will give .temporary relief and
sometimes prevent staining' the under
wear. This affliction requires numer
ous changes In shields, and very often
the odor can be traced, not to exces
sive perspiration, bet to carelessness in
the us of .tho shield. Washable shields
cost a little more than tho cheaper
7
i 51
After laying- aside the cropc hat and
veil, a woman has the entire range of
fashionable phapes from which to choose
her black- chapeau, and- in reality many
women prefer to don a hat devoid of
crepe during the first period of mourning.
As all straw hats are being worn later
in the season each year, the woman who
must purchase black at this season will
Emergencies
brands, but are well worth the invest
ment to the girl who desires to be im
maculate. Carbolic soap is an alieviant
in case of excessive perspiration, and
the girl who seeks relief in the exces
sive ue of even the simplest toilet
powder takes grave chances of start
ing up .some annoying, skin disease by
choking up the pores with powder.
"Tho girl who never perspires" is en
vied by all her feminine friends and
complimented by members of the other
sex on her cool and comfortable appear
ance. In reality this girl is In greater
danger than her sister who perspires too
much. The absence of perspiration indi
cates a tendency to various diseases.
If such a girl Is languid she will do
well to take some active exercise during
hot Summer .weather and try to start up
the little glands which should give forth
perspiration, but which aro in a torpid
condition.
Another affliction, trifling in name, but
agonizing in sensation, is hives. This
usually Indicates overheating or too
thick blood, and the old-fashioned remedy
of pQlphur and molasses Is frequently
given for it by old-school mothers. The
bowels should be kept open by the use of
a gentle laxative, and if tho trouble can
be traced directly to the stomach, both
the stomach and the bowels should be
cleansed or flushed by the lavish use of
wajer.
Two goblets of hot water should be
taken before retiring and immediately on
rising in the morning, and during the
day, btMween meals," two quarts of cool
water, not Iced, should be drunk.
To. relieve local irritation, "apply a lo
tion made as follows: ' wo drams of
boracic add, half ounce of oxide of zinc
52.
.it ,
w ...
find that one of the new shapes of straw
In dull flnlrh will serve until late in No
vember. With this Id worn a fine mean
net 'cil. bordered by three or four folds of
crpe. or jdmply by several rows of .urah
I ribbon in graduated widths. More becom
1 ing than the plain meh Is, a net showing
J the squares of the meph meeting at in-
tcrvals in tiny black spot. This is called
Tuxedo net.
As soon as the problem of the hat is
settled, the article of most importance is
an all-black suit which will, do service
well Into the Fall. Various weaves of
mohair bid fair to be exceedingly popular
for the Autumn months, and the woman
who lg purchasing her mourning suit can
choois no material which will prove more
satisfactory than a mohair Sicilian in dull
black. Rumors from Paris say the fash
ionable length for the neV Jackets will be
to the hip rather than the three-quarter
length of last year's coat or the waist
length of the Summer's bolero. Skirts are
made simple, save for two or three wide
tucks at the knee line or above the hem.
Black skirts, however, should always
clear the ground, as they are so diiilcult
to keep clean. Trailing gowns are not
the up-to-date insignia of zrlef.
The proper waist for this tailored suit is
a china silk, simply made and finished
about the wrists and neck with hem
stitched cuffs and collars of white linen
laundered with very little starch.
It to in the houn gown, which has be
come Indispensable to the modem wo
man's wardrobe, that the all-black cos
tume shows the greatest innovations. The
black frock of the hour for house wear is
1 a marvel of fine handwork and delicate.
Hints for Relief of Excessive Perspiration 2i Home
Remedies for Summer Intestinal Troubles.
and half ounce of ointment of rose water.
Wdmen who are subject to hives say
that there is no underwear le.s irritating
than wash silk or nainsook. Both the
common gauze and muslin seem to Irritate,
this affliction. If the hives concentrate
around the waistline, corsets and tight
bands must be discarded unfll relief Is se
cured! Incidentally, the wise Summer girl al
ways has two corsets in 'Summer and
wears them alternately. The batiste cor
set is most sanitary because it can be
washed with the least trouble.
Summer traveling and the mild dissipa
tion of seaside and mountain resorts bring
about a great deal of stomach trouble.
Most of these ailments can be traced di
rectly to constipation, due to the change
of water and food. Castor oil is the best
of all cathartics, and it can be bought
by the dose at a drugstore, so cleverly
concealed in a soda mixture that It oc
casions no distaste on the part of the
patient The hot water remedy mentioned
above is excellent for reducing constipa
tion, and olive oil, taken a teaspoonful
night and morning, will stimulate yet
eoothe the bowels.
For bilious colic, cramps and diarrhea,
thopo horrors of the night-time, the treat
ment for an adult should be very much
llko that given to a baby afflicted with
Summer complalm. Castor oil will cleanse
and sootho the Intestines. A hot water
bag or bottle, or a mustard plaster, may
be applied to the bowels to relieve the
pain, and an enema of tepid water with
olive oil in the preparation (one teaspoon
ful of oil to a pint of water) should be
administered to cleanse and relieve the
inflamed intestines. The services of a
doctor should be secured in this case, as
P.
Ic3i
lace. In the matter of material, crepe do
Paris takes the lead, with henrietta cloth
as a close second,' and among women who
like clinging effects there is a lingering
fondness for voile and crepe de chine.
Wonderfully graceful was an afternoon
frock T.orn by a recently bereaved
matron. Dull black crepe de Paris formed t
an exceptionally full skirt laid in fine
pleats at the waistline, with a plain. '
shaped panel at the middle of the front.
A band of crop de Paris edged on either
side by a deep ruching of the same
finished the bottom of the skirt. Around
the V-shaped neck of the surplice bodice
was laid a fichu of fine India lawn, out
lined by double niched of the same. A
band edged with lawn ruches of the same
material finiphed the puff elbow sleeves
and a yoke of sheer Chnntilly lace filled
In the low-cut neck.
One of the smartest examples of the late
Summer fashions Is a tunic frock which
promises to enjoy a tremendous vogue
during the coming Winter. The skirt of
henrietta cloth showa the new circular cut
with a fesm dawn the center of the front
and a length which clears the ground by
almost two inch?. Over this ricirt to the
knees falls a tight-fitting princess turtle,
finished at the bottom In scallops edged
with tad taffeta ribbon. From the
waistline up the tunic forms a suspender
bodice to tho buot. with straps over the
shoulder holding full elbow s'.eeves. A
yoke of white lawn tucked In pin tuc!
very closa together and half sleevejbf
the same cover the neck and arms.
For evening wear a flno black act com
pletes the mourning outfit. Thjrdalntlept
of thse frocks are shirrred yifiany times
about the waist and finlnhpa with ruffles
and many ruchlngr of te same. A lun
terlesn black silk forms the foundation,
and ruchingi of dead black taffeta ribbon
with a wide sash of tho same give these
simple frocks a dressy appearance.
A becoming neck piece for mourning
wear Is an eight-inch fold of dull black
chiffon ahlrred with tiny headings at In
tervals of an inch and finished with a
deep fold at the ends. Sweet pea blos
soms made from the same chiffon dangle
from among the shlrrings.
KATHERINE ANDERSOX.
dread appendicitis or peritonitis may be
In store for the patient
The Summer cold is another ailment
not to bo trifled with. Physicians trace
numerous cases of catarrh, hay fever,
asthma and pneumonia directly to colds
acquired during the jaunt to mountain
or seaside. A persistent cold in the
head should be treated like Incipient
catarrh, with a laxative for the bow
els, a tonic for the entire system and
local douches of salt water. The girl
who is "subject to colds" should never
go out aftor nightfall, even in the
warmest weather, without protecting
head and shoulders; and the girl who
Is similarly liable to attacks of colic,
cramps, acute indigestion, etc., should
wear a lightweight abdominal bandage
of either flno all-wool or silk-and-wooL
This will provent the sudden chilling
of the Intestines.
The visitor at the seashore is pecu
liarly subject to Summer ailments. Do
not bathe the first day after your ar
rival. Give your system a chance to
accustom itself to Its new environment
Thls hint comes from an experienced
Summer resort physician. He also
states that the first bath should be
short, then increased dally, and at no
time should it be taken under three
hours after eating: a hearty meal.
The practice of "burning" the akin
abruptly- and excessively Is dangerous.
ATiealthy.naturai tan will be-acqaired
before the visitor roturns to the city,
but this does not satisfy some young
people, so they deliberately He down in
the sand and tinder the burning rays
of the sun after a dip in the ocean, to
brown the face, neck and arms. Then
another dip In the -water and a second
38
roast in the August sunlight. The re
sult is a blistered skin, the pain of
which Is borne for the sake of acquir
ing the correct seaside tan. When
there Is a latent tendency to cither ec
zema or erysipelas this is a sure way
to dovelop it. Many a case of these
afflictions has been traced to just such
causes by observing physicians.
The care of the ear Is most impor
tant when bathing. Many glrlH Imag
ine that If they stuff their ears wlth
cotton, all danger of trouble is averted.
These girls shoud watch, their young
brothers at the first swimming lesson.
It seems born in a boy to hold hl nose
when he dives into the water, and this
Is what every fair Summer girl should
do, cotton or no cottop. As long as the
head is under the wator, close the nos
trils firmly with the thumb and fore
finger. When swimming or floating with
tho head above water, this is not nec
essary, but It Is particularly essential
when diving through the surf or a
breaker. When the water i3 driven Into
the nose. It runs through the Eustach
ian tubo. causing an inflammation of
this delicate organism and of the inner
ear also. When the water rushes Into
the outer ear it drives the wax against
the-car drum. The result is temporary
or permanent deafness, due principally
to catarrhal conditions.
The Summer girl who can retain her
wits in time of emergency Is Invaluable
at hotel, or camp, on boat or on train,,
for much can be done before the serv
ices of a physician are secured. Here
are a few Invaluable, tips to the girl
who can think and act quickly:
Cinder or Foreign Body In the Eye-
Do not allow patient to rub It. nor use
a soiled handkerchief. Get a bit of sur
glca.1 gauze or absorbent cotton or a
clean camelshalr brush, evert the eye
lid with the left forefinger and remove
cinder with gauze In the right. If the
eyo becomes greatly Inflamed, reduce
tho fever by applying clenn compresses
dipped In Ice water and bathe the eye
at Intervals of nnour or two with a
vory weak solution of boracic acid.
Patients frequently suffer ten or 12
hours after a cinder has been removed.
Foreign Bodies In the Ear (a frequent
accident In camp where thero are chil
dren). Drop a few drop3 of warm olive
oil Into the car to prevent pain and take
the patient at once to a physician. Do
not attempt to remove the object. You
may only push It further against the
drum, while the oil will prent Its mak
ing further progress toaffrd the drum.
For Choking. BenjJthe patient for
ward, with face dn and slap violently
on the back. Jxcver pound the back
while the supffer Is in an upright posi
tion. Yourfierely increase his danger.
For Sulistroke. Remove the sufferer
THE first duty of every guest is to
adapt herself to her surroundings.
Get Into the spirit of the home where
you are being entertained. If the fam
ily is In the habit of getting up an hour
earlier than you are accustomed to,
don't turn over 'for another nap and get
to tho breakfast table Just as every one
else has finished. This Is the time of
year when flies are a pest, anc keeping
the breakfast warm delays the entire
day's work. .
If food is served that you do not care
for. try to eat it during your stay.
Nothing" troubles a hostess more than
to have a guest refuse what she offers
at table. .
Find some reading or sewing to oc
cupy your morning hours. This is the
time when your hostesses, both mothers
and daughters, have household duties
to perform. They have reserved the
afternoon and evening- for your enter
tainment, and If you are busy at some
thing, they will not feel they are neg
lecting on during the mornlne. Where
thero is no servant, open your own bed
beforo going to breakfast, and soon
after this meal return and tidy up the
room. Never allow clothes to He
around on chairs, and be- careful about
laying hair brush and comb on a spot
less bureau cover.
Two things cause the majority of
broken friendships which occur be
tween women during a visit. One Is
trying to suggest to the hostess any
changes, however slight. In her house
hold management No matter how
much you may discover going- to waste
or where confusion could be avoided by
a lfttle system, do not mention this to
l" the woman whose hospitality you. are
enjoying. She is doing everything in
her power to give you a good time, and
she will resent any such advice, wheth
er It Is asked or not.
The other cause of hard feeling is ar-gkment-
Each family has Us own. flxed
views, especially on religion. The home
is the place for them to be expressed
and talked over. The guest should re
spect this and keep her opinions and be
liefs for her owh home.
Never enter into a family disagree
ment If one sister wants to go pic
nicking and some other member of the
household insists upon staying- home to
play tennis, remain neutral until your
wishes are consulted. Should more
ominous , discussions arise', it is a
guest's duty to leave the room until the
Earn Title of Welcome Guest
Ch
m
Immediately to a shady place. Lay flat
with head on a level with the body and
loosen all tight clothing. Poul cold water
over the head and face and apply lee
bags qr cloths dipped In Ice water to the
body.
Fcr Fainting. Lay the patient flat,
loosen all bands, collar, etc.. and hold
back the bystanders. Air is all-essetll.
Bathe hands and face with coW water
and on revival administer tea or coffee,
but no alcoholic stimulant without the
consent of the patient's physician.
Hiccough. Severe cases demand dras
tic treatment, such a hot mustard plas
ters laid directly on the pit of the stom
ach. For milder cases cloths dipped ta
either hot vinegar, brandy or whisky
will sometimes eive Immediate relief.
Poison Attacks Peculiar to Eating Fish
or Canned Goods. Give an emetic such
as warm mustard water, a powerful pur
gative, such as a bis: dose of castor oil.
and after these have worked and the
reaction set In. give a stimulant sueh as
hot coffee or brand v or whisky.
For Sprains. If the ankle is sprained,
rest is all-Important. Bandage the part
and keep this bandage soaked with water
as hot as tho patient can bear. For a
sprained wrist, bathe with very hot wa
ter, then apply a padded splint and pt
the arm in a sling.
Nose-bleed. Lay sufferer on hi? bak
with arms elevated abox-e the head and
apply the coldest water obtainable to
nose, forehead and back of neck.
Bleeding From an Artery- This is in
dicated by spurting red blood, and not
an instant should be wastod. The most,
common accidents in camp and mouh-'
tain life occur to the arteries in arms
and legs, and the simplest tourniquet
used for stopping the flow of blood is
known as the Spanish windlass. This
is applied between the cut and, the heart,
from which the blood is coming; that is.
above the w?und and not below it. If
the artery is cut near the wrist apply
on the forearm: If the cut la above the
elbow, apply between the cut and the
shoulder. The same directions apply to
the leg always above the wound. The
windlass is made by placing a ball or a
."tone in a handkerchief and pressing this
directly on the artery, then bring the
ends of the handkerchief together to form
a loop. Through this loop thrust a strlck
and turn it repeatedly until the stone or
ball in the handkerchief sinks deep into
the artery and ho his back the flow of
bloofl. In this nositlon the patient may
be removed In safety to a physician or
may rest thus until a physician's serv
ices are secured. While waiting for the
surgeon. If possible, give warm drinlck of
tea. coffee or milk, but avoid alcohol. lt
Is absolutely rash to attempt to dress
pack such a wound.
SALLY CHAMBERLIJf.
storm has blown over, or to remain
quietly and appear totally uncon
cerned. Always go to a house well equipped
with little necessities and conveniences.
A guest should have her own writing
materials. Every member of the fam
ily may be asking for the library pen
and Ink Just when you want to write
your home letter. A miniature sewing
outfit and shoe polish rags, etc. are
essential also.
Do not go off with other guests on an
excursion of your own planning. Your
hostess has the first call on your time,
and it is her privilege to know just
where you are. and to have the pleas
ure of your society when she Is at lib
erty. Make a point always to take your
leave when the time Is up for which
you were invited. There may be other
guests following close on your heels,
and the continual urging to remain may
be simply a means of showing you that
the family has enjoyed your visit Let
them feel that they really want you to
come again.
Roosevelt's Ten JSLt. Tts.
ates conferred upon him recently. Theo
dore Roosevelt had a larger collection f
coHege degrees than any of his predeaes
sors in the oflice of President of the Uni
ted States. Including his B. A., taken in
his course at Harvard 23 years ago. ht
has now had bestowed upon him ten titles
to distinction of this kind and is privi
leged to write after his name eight LL.
D.'s and one L. H. D. The total Is just
twice the highest number of honorary de
grees given by the colleges of the country
to any of his predecessors. Washington.
Jefferson and McKlnley each received Ave
degrees. John Adams and Hayes eaoh
received four. Grant received three.
He Never Ate Dirt.
Ex-Senator William F. Sanders, of Mon
tana, who died Tecently In Helena, was a
noted character in territorial days. Ho
was never known to "take wator." and
was proud of the fact At the funeral of
a friend on one occasion he said to a fol
low pallbearer as they turned away from
the grave: "Some day they will bring
me out here and throw dirt on me, but
they can never say I ate any of it" He
once handed a rather tattered bill to
a railway conductor, who commented
on its dilapidated appearance. "Well,"
said Mr. Sanders, "if you don't like It
turn It, in to "the company." '