'42
, AME FASHION and her assistants.
the mode-makers of Paris. Vien
na, London and New York, are
devout students of girlology. Each
Summer they create a new vogue, not
only in gowns, but 1n girls, for truly
the gown makes a. girl In Summer time.
For this reason we had a Summer of
athletic girls, with everything sug
gesting tailored lines. Then came the
modified athletic girl, under the title
of the Christy maid, with her spotless
shirtwaists, trig skirts and chin-tilting
stocks. Last year we had the 1830 girl,
and this year it Is a revival of the 1860
girl.
One of the most convincing evidences
of Miss I860 Is the parasol boom. Never
have girls purchased them In such
large numbers and in such varieties of
colorings, and never have manufactur
ers offered them in such bewildering
loveliness and purse-pulling plctur
esqueness. It has almost reached that
point where the -up-to-date girl has a
) parasol for every gown, and be it
known that this is not because. she
means to go without a hat this Sum
iner. The fad for running about board
walks and mountain by-paths In "hat
less guise is now a thing of the past.
Hats will be worn very generally this
Summer, but the parasol is fully as essen
tial, because the hats which are enjoy
ing the largest sale are so absurdly
Email that they merely top an elabo
rately coiffed head and afford little or
no protection to the complexion.
There Is no reason, however, why the
girl of limited dress allowance should
feel helplessly discouraged over thfs
somewhat extravagant fad for many
parasols. The parasol of the hour is
much trimmed, and so much latitude is
permitted in the fashioning of "the
cover that a clever girl With nimble
fingers can take twer parasols of plain
color and with different tops. . like an
overskirt, and gain a variety of effects.
Some of these covers are tacked on
as loosely as the net and lace covers
of a perambulator .parasol, and there
are a thousand and one ways in-which
Dainty Service
IN the average household at this season
of the year the hew potato still re
mains a luxury. It may. be the special
vegetable feature of the Sunday dinner,
but for week-day meals the old potato
furnishes the standard dish. If kept in
the cellar in a damp, dark corner, the tu
ber Is now apt to catch the contagion of
Spring and send forth sprouts, which ren
der it less digestible and almost tasteless.
If old potatoes arc kept In the house In
lect potatoes of uniform size, small ones
no larger than an egg are the best for
this ptjrpose. Do not peel, but scrape and
throw them at once into cold water. They
should not be left to soak in this water
lor more than five minutes. Then drain
and drop them Into boiling water and
cook very rapidly for ten or 15 minutes,
according to the size. If you desire a
smooth, glace surface do not cover the
pan. as keeping the steam inside a pot
Is apt to rwult. in the potatoes bursting
and losing the smooth finish desirable in
the new potato. After they have cooked
for ten or 15 minutes drain and dust with
salt. Have ready a Bordclaisc sauce made
as follows:
Bordelalse Sauce. Melt a tablespoontul
of butter in an agateware pan. Rub in
smoothly one tablespoonful of flour and
add very slowly a cup of stock, a tea
spoonful of chopped onion and a bay leaf.
Bring this to the boiling point and add a
teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet and th
drained potatoes. Cover and stand on tht
back of the stove for a few minutes until
the flavors ot the sauce and the potatoes
have blended. If you have no stock at
hand make a plain cream sauce, adding
to the tablespoonful of butter and flour a
cup of sweet milk and the potatoes, with
quantities they must be watched carefully
during this month, and the sprouts be
nipped directly they make their appear
ance. New potatoes now are apt to be small
and high-priced. The best way to serve
them with the Sunday roast is with
sauce Bordelalse. or a cream sauce. Se
a few sprigs of fresh parsley and a dash
of pepper.
fbe gcofel-tm which ill .average Jiouse
I
this same deft girl can add a touch of
handwork to the simple taffeta parasol,
for which she pays anywhere from a
dollar to two dollars and a half. For
example, there Is now offered, on the
market an English parasol which com
mands a very high figure, but which
can be copied by a skillful home sewer
who uses the ordinary taffetas coach
ing parasol for a foundation. The
frame is rather large and the cover is
of forget-me-not blue taffetas with a
light wood handle. Around the edge
of the parasol is appllqued a series of
scallops about Ave inches wide and in
depth somewhat shallow. These are
made of taffetas the same shade as the
parasol cover, finished with a fiat,
pleated quilling of the silk and at
tached to the cover by the same sort
of quilling about an inch deep, stitched
through the -center to form a very flat
ruchlng. Below this quilling and as a
head to the scallop. Is fastened a triple
row of silk-covered buttons about
three"-elghths" of an Inch In diameter.
From the handle fall three snowballs
of the ribbon about three inches In
diameter, which depend from odd
lengths of the half-Inch ribbon.
These snowballs or round, chubby
rosettes of ribbon are extremely smart
for finishing off the handles of para
sols and 'must match in coloring the
parasol itself. For carrying with a
black and white checked suit, a
checked parasol is finished with a band
ot Dresden ribbon showing a cloudy
black and white pattern with a cardi
nal red edge. This is set off by tiny
red buttons.
A plain pongee coaching p'arasol was
made very smart by the application of
diamond-shaped pieces of Persian
binding stitched on very fiat to match
the embroidered bands of a pongee
afternoon gown.
A blue taffetas cover showed ap
pliques of tan color pongee in the form
of. large, five-petaled flowers In shape
not unlike wild roses. These were ap
plied with silk braid of tan color to
match the pongee and then outlined
with alternate rows of the same very
fine silk braid in pale blue and tan.
The heart of the flower was made from
pale blue and tan color French knots.
of Old Potatoes
keeper faces, however. Is how to make an
old potato palatable on the Spring table.
Plain baked or boiled potatoes are almost
tasteless at this season of the year, con
sequently it pays to serve them In the
form of made dishes.
Stuffed Potatoes. Select good-sized po
tatoes. i:xub them thoroughly and bake.
Cut lengthwise, leaving at least three
quarters of the potato for the shell. Scoop
out the shell and the lid and beat the
potato very light with butter, a little
cream, pepper and salt. Fill the lower
shell, heaping the beaten mixture up high.
Glaze with beaten white of egg and
brown In the oven. To add variety, grated
American cheese or Parmesan may be
scattered thickly over the top of the
beaten potato before It Is browned in the
oven.
Escalloped Potatoes. Slice the raw po
tatoes very thin and drop Into cold water.
Butter a low baking dish and cover the
bottom with a layer of the drained pota
toes. Season with, salt and pepper and
tiny scraps ot butter. Then add another
layer of potatoes and another of season
ing and so on until the dish Is filled, fin
ishing with the seasoning. Pour over this
sweet milk, in the proportion of one pint
of milk for a two-quart baking dish.
Bake 20 minutes with a ltd and then
brown quickly. If the flavor of onion is
liked, some very thin slices may be added
to the potatoes before baking.
Potatoes au Gratln. Cut cold boiled po
tatoes into cubes or slices. JHave ready a
cupful of sauce made according to the
recipe for creamed new potatoes given
first In this column. Stir the potatoes intoJ
this sauce and place the mixture in a
shallow baking dish. Scatter grated
cheese thickly over the top, with here and
there a scrap of butter and a dash of red
pepper. Bake in a quick oven Just long
enough to color it a golden brown. The
German cooks add onion to this combina
tion also, and some cooks cover the top
of the dleh with fine bread crumbs as well
as cheese. In either form It Is an ex
tremely delicious and nourishing dish.
J. Potato Puff. Melt two tablespoon fuls of
Sutter, but do not brown It. Beat two
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potatoes in a good-sized bowl; add alter
nately the beaten eggs and ono cup of
milk and the melted butter. Season with
salt and pepper and beat very hard and
light. This can be baked to a golden
brown in a shallow pudding dish, but It
Is much more attractive if baked in Indi
vidual molds. In the new brown and
white ware come small-handled cocottes,
which are really very low custard cups
with handles that make them extremely
convenient lor use in the oven.
German Potato Pancakes. Boil four
large potatoes and force them through a
vegetable press or sieve. Add one table
speenful ot butter, & dash of pepper, two
tablespoonful! of salt and eight abnoEis,
blanched and greand in a mortar or
chopped extremely fine. Beat the yolks
of four eggs very light and add these
with a tablespooBful of flour and beat
hard. Heat and grease a. medium-sized
skillet. Pour enough of the mixture in
this, skillet to caver the bottom lightly.
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Serve on a heated dinner plate. Dust with
pulverized sugar and pass with It mar
malade or preserves. This is a dish for
luncheon or supper, a sweet side dish.
Potato Border. For cooking this dish
you need a strong stoneware platter
which you do not mind browning in the
oven. Arrange around its edge a border
of mashed potatoes which have been
beaten light with butter, eggs and cream
or very rich milk, In the following propor
tions. For every pint of mashed potatoes
add one ounce or a tablespoonful of but
ter, half a cup of sweet milk or cream
and the yolks of four eggs beaten light.
The safest way to mix this is to place all
the ingredients in an agate or enamel pan
over the fire and heat thoroughly. Ar
range the border carefully on the platter
and brush this over with the white of an
egg. Brown It In a quick even until It
takes: on a golden brown coter. Have
ready creamed fish or a' cream stew,
which way be. made frers left-over
chicken, lamb or veal, cut into dice and
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MAY 7, 1905.
DEFT
in the center of the potato border with
this and serve Immediately. If the platter
Is not as sightly as you may desire, en
circle the border with parsley or cress.
Creamed fish is particularly delicious
served in the heart of a potato border,
and any white fish answers the purpose.
Expert cooks use a border mold for this
purpose. The result is more regular and
sightly, but not more palatable than the
simple home border.
Hashed Brown Potatoes. This is the
most palatable form of serving fried po
tatoes. Chop cold boiled potatoes very
fine. To two very large potatoes add a
dash of salt and pepper, and a quarter of
a. cup of sweet milk, or, better still, sweet
cream.
Have your omelette pan or skillet hot
and melt in it one tableepoeaful of but
ter, but do not allow it to brown. Add
the potatoes and pack them down tight
ly Into the pan. Cook, for a minute or
two over a quick fire, and then shove
them t the back of the sieve, where they
FINGBc
The girl who has a frame and handle
In good condition mav have the former
re-covered with silk to match any of
her gowns at prices varying from $2.50
to $3.50. according to the shop In which
the work Is done. Some beautiful par
asols are shown to match the silks to
be used In street frocks, particularly
the somewhat fanciful shirtwaist ef
fects. A charming example is shown
in golden brown barred with pale blue
satin stripes, crossed with gold. An
other fetching design shows a blue
shading to tan with a rosette around
the ferrule of pale blue, and a third
shows shaded taffetas toning from
lavender to green.
It requlresh the same talent for re
covering parasols at home that Is
needed for making the tailored gown:
that is. an eye for line and a gift of
accuracy. The homo sewer who would
make a new plain cover for a parasol
should rip off the old cover very care
fully and observe the grain of the silk
in cutting each new section to match
exactly the section ripped from the
parasol. It Is not a matter of mere
shape and size, but the set of the para
sol depends upon the angle of the
weave.
The most expensive parasols of the
season are the hand-painted articles.
These come in the most delicate of
pastel tints with enameled handles to'
match.
A white satin parasol with a white
enameled handle was exquisitely
painted with pink and white roses
which seemed to be falling to pieces,
so that stray petals were scattered
almost on the edge of the parasol. A
mother-of-pearl handle was topped by
a white satin cover in whose painting
was reproduced the tints of mother-of-pearl
shaded pinks, blues and greens
all in orchids.
A very pale violet parasol ot taffetas
was painted with loose sprays of -violets,
one on each section or gore, con
nected by Marie Antoinette garlands.
These shaded from the violet to a
shadowy gray. A white parasol paint
ed with yellow primroses had a handle
of white topped off by a golden bird's
head.
Next to the hand-painted parasol In
Color Revival in
H
AIL. to the colored handkerchief, most
persistent of eccentric accessories!
It refuses to be downed: After several
Summers of alternate appearance and dis
appearance. It bobs up this year In ra
diant. Irresistible guise. One reason for
Its enormous popularity this season Is
the . vogue for white linen gowns with
lapels, collars and cuffs of vivid or
pastel tints, such as lavender, turquoise
blue, old rose, pink or green.
The tailored or semi-tailored suit al
most demands the little colored hand
kerchief to match the cuffs and to peep
from the mere slit which serves as a
pocket. When the girl adds to this spats
of the same shade she is truly smart. Men
and women alike have both stopped to
admire this dauntless little article and
then to lay In a goodly supply to match
their gay-hued neck scarfs or daintily
colored linen frocks. This does not mean,
however, that the pure white kerchief
will be entirely neglected, merely that
it must look to its laurels and keep pace
with a most persistent and fascinating
rival.
The unpretentious handkerchief for ml
ladl'a Summer usg is seven or eight Inches
square, finished with a quarter-Inch hem
and having In one corner a single In
itial in script shaped by drawn threads.
The outline of the letter is secured by
buttonholing. Plain white handkerchiefs
for men are edged for two or three Inches
by the old-fashioned tape border from
an eighth to a quarter of an inch wide.
The corner monogram la the merest out
line of the two or three letters.
Embroidery for handkerchiefs partakes
of none of the florid effects so popular on
frocks and lingerie bodices. Hairline
scrolls or the tiniest forget-me-nots are
Is clewed inside the hem or send their
shooting tendrils part way into 'the cen
ter of the linen square. Clusters of wee
costliness and elegance is the parasol
decorated with Louis embroidery in.
tape ribbon showing the most exquisite
of pastel tints on a white ground. But
like the hand-painted parasol these are
fpr two classes of women, Miladl who
has an unlimited dress allowance, or
she who has a gift for artistic needle
work or painting.
The season's unquestioned novelty in
parasols is the lingerie effects. These
match the all-over eyelet work and
embroideries so popular for Summer
frocks and are especially charming for
wear with an all-white get-up.
The simplest form of making over
old parasols or trimming new ones is
the application of lace and chiffon, and
in this direction there is practically
no limit In designs and fashions. A
plain parasol of white taffetas with a
simple border of pompadour ribbon
wa3 rendered more elaborate by double
chiffon ruffles set on the hem. and an
application of shirred chiffon sur
rounding the ferule.
Another white . satin parasol was
trimmed with handkerchief ruffles of
mousseline and a mousseline ruchlng
around the ferule. Between the deep
flounces and the ruchlng were applied
glack guipure medallions In conven
tional pattern.
An eight-ribbed parasol of white
satin had each rib outlined by a boul
Jione of white chiffon, and each of
these was hidden by four large ap
pliques of black lace in a thistle de
sign. The edge of the parasol was
divided Into a geometrical pattern with
twisted garlands of the white mousse
line caught down with black lace gal
loons and black chenille cherries.
Eccentric handles show bird and ani
mal designs in beaten gold, but dearest
of all to the feminine heart is the
stubby handle of highly polished natu
ral wood or rustic effects finished with
a cap. Not Infrequently this cap opens
to disclose a hollow space which will
hold a fan or a powder puff and which.
In fact, corresponds to the vanity bag
of the "Winter girl. Sometimes these"
caps appear in the form of some pre
cious Jewels set In gold, silver or gun
metal.
KATHERINE ANDERSON.
Handkerchiefs
an Initial In their center by leaving an
unembroldered space.
Many of the exclusive shops are dis
playing squares of linen bordered with
narrow edgings of tatting in delicate star
designs. Narrow Cluny edgings are also
employed extensively on the more costly
handkerchiefs. But with all lace trim
ming, be it Valenciennes or tatting, net
or Cluny only the suggestion of a frill
is given by Its quarter-inch width.
Nevertheless, beside the beauties of the
new colored handkerchiefs even embroi
dered moucholrs lose their charm, and
one wonders how they could ever have
been so grossly neglected. But the col
ored kerchief of 1305 is only a distant
relative of the vivid printed handker
chief of previous years. It bears not
even a suggestion of red and blue bordered
handkerchiefs which were bought by the
pound for country trade.
The softest of linen colors are sil
houetted against white backgrounds in
petal designs or fantastic nouveau art
figures. Or on a colored ground are sil
houetted white effects. White handker
chiefs have borders of geometrical pat
terns, disks or Grecian designs, but the
pastel pinks and blues and tans bring out
these old patterns in new beauty. Laven
der handkerchiefs show tiny baskets of
flowers In white, or, vice versa, white
kerchiefs show lavender garlands and
bouquets. These are often outlined by a
single white thread. One very unusual
design shows a lavender basket filled with
small flowers in each corner, while scat
tered Inside the border are tiny butter
files In palest orange. On other kerchiefs
violets or star flowers, in pink or lavender
or blue, form the colored border and
have their petals buttonholed In silk of
the same color.
Silk handkerchiefs for men show soft
est pastel shaded crossed by white lines.
Contrasting colors are also combined in
this way, an old-blue ground showing
light tan lines or a gray ground crossed
by lavender lines. These always match'
the neck scarf. A very silky looking
handkerchief, which to a combination of
silk and linen, can be purchased in both
women's and jmea's sizes foe lees than
IS.