THE" STHSUXXt OEGO?sLN, POFHIAOT, TABCH 5, 1905. The New Sleeves How to Finish Off a Waist THE graceful sleeve that Is No. 6 of those shown in the upper halt of the page, expresses the newest modes in sleevedom, the fullness at the shoulder, the elbow length for afternoon wear, and the fashion able "Winter trimmings of fur and lace. For a Spring frock the fur would naturally give place o some other material, particularly the dress material 8 roper. The pattern is composed of three parts. The lining of the sleeve out along a straight line, the dots mark oft the under part of the sleeve. The second part ls'tho sleeve c ut In a straight line from a single piece on the line A B; the plaits are denoted by the indentures. The two cuts i'yr the small of the arm are shown by an indenture. The third part is the side cuff of the sleeve, with a notch showing where it is fastened "to the lining of the sleeve. The leg-o'-mutton sleeve "has been quite adopted, set ting in motion a series of causes which make it impossi ble to wear the boas which long have been necessities Muth the sloping-shouldered gowns. Furthermore, the drooping, sweeping hats havo been necessarily ostracized by this new fullness of sleeve near the neok. Hats finally have had to take upward lines, as If to flee from encroaching lines, perching an feminine heads 1'ke small crowns, or soemlng but the point where a paroche of waving plumes takes its hold. Sleeves, If not short, are at least an inoh or two above the wrist This in its turn means that four-button gloves are ao longer possible with afternoon gowns. The six and eight-button lengths are needed, with a bracelet If liked covering the bare space above the wrist. The pattern printed on this page is of the sleeve No. 6. No. 1 in the group is the new leg-o'-mutton sleeve of the now accepted shape. Nos. 2 and 3 the new evening eicctc. BuiiaoiB ior suK. velvet, etc., being an elbow EleeVe full at the tOT). anrl flttori mMfnllv ti below, -while its companion is intended for chiffon and its jwuurca ciJuuaBunmes, &tugea at tno inside or tne arm, and finished off with graduated kilted frills. No. 4 is a beautiful sleeve for blouses or dmi.innte further decorated by bands of fur, while a pointed cuff of guipure forms vIts completion; and No. 5 is a charming presentment qi ice rucjcea gisot. THERE are several ways of finishing off waists. As a rule, when there Is a tight-fitting lining this Is cut off at the waist, even though the outer material is car ried a little below it. The material should be left open at the side seams (and at the center of the back also where there Is no fullness at the -waist), and the edges hemmed and well pressed. A strip of linen binding should be laid along the waist over the raw edge of the linings and stitched on by both its edges. A nice method of finishing silk waists that are not to be laundered is to arrange the edge of the silk over an ordinary belting. t Tfje latter should be sot well down to the waist. This when basted must be stitched along the lower edge and a quarter of an .inch above that. On no account stitch It higher, as by leaving the band otherwise free of the bodice portion it will hold the whole garment nicely down in place, -which it will not do if not free in the manner described. One or three hooks and eyes should always bo ar ranged at the back to secure the skirt to the waist. The advantage of this plan is evident in having abso lutely nothing to sink below the waist. When the bodice Is worn outside the" skirt the lower edge should bo finished off with Tlbbon or binding, ac cording to the depth below the waist line. - When fitting first see that the hodlce Is setting well down to the waist at back. Next, pin the front linos together from the neck to the waist. , At the latter place do not let out If too tight, as by so doing you immediately altor the set of the darts and give a broad, sraight effect -which is unsightly. Make the required enlargement at the under-arm seam, throwing the front of bodice more forward. Make any required fitting at the waist before touch ing the upper part unless the bodice Is a little, short waisted. and by lowering the shoulder a little this may be rectified; in such a case, open the shoulders and pin them temporarily together, fitting them properly after fitting the waist. ... It too long-walstod. pin a tuck all round the waist line in the lining and stitch it along each piece when they are all separated. If there Is more fullness than is needed just in the front of the armhole an Interlining of fine French canvas, the best kind of padding, will mako it set quite smoothly. Or, take up a small dart from the armhole edge, taper, ing it off to nothing, at about the center or below the top of the back dart. For a figure which sinks in much at the armhole, it Is always a great improvement to put an interlining of fine French canvas in the fprm of a wide binder, and cut on the same way of the thread as the lining and material of bodice are. " It should be finely basted or stitched on to the lining in rows about an inch apart. It cannot be done simply by placing it in position with out securing it, as the result of so doing will only be much more decided creases than if no canvas had been used. .In altering a shoulder-seam and stretching the front edge, always place the armhole ends together and stitch it towards the neck end, where any surplus may be cut off. If this Is reversed, the armhole edge just in front of the shoulder-hone will stand out In a most unsatisfactory manner. i In fitting a sleeve, the elbow should first be exactly in the right place, and any difference in the lengths above and below made at cither end as required. To let out or take in a sleeve without altering the shape, 'do so at the outer seam. To take in the Inner seam makes a a straight sleeve and to let it out makes a more cured one. In fitting It to the armhole, the sleeve should' be placed so that It sets straight on the -upper arm, and when pinned in -will not draw if the arm Is raised and held forward. When it does so in the front the inner scam is too far under and requires moving forward. . The under edge of the sleeve should be stretched to the armhole; the upper part eased, gathered, or plaited, as fashion decrees. The surest way of fitting a sleeve In is to pin it to tfie bodice the whole way round while on the figure. In putting a collar on. see that Its lower edge sets ex actly -where a crease on the neck edge of the bodice indi cates the bend of the neck. . The collar must always be slightly larger to allow for Its being an outer one of two circles. The lines made by the pins down the center of the front must be carefully marked and all necessary edges and margins required for the arrangement of the fasten ings must be allowed outside those lines, -which must be exactly down the center when the bodice Is fastened. They should be placed so as to represent, respectively, the shank of tho button in a buttoned bodice or the exact edge In a hooked one. The Importance of Taste in Dress LET us be tasteful or hide. Today, -when the edicts of the fashion queen are lalssez faire edicts and graciously allow each subject to follow her own particular caprice, free and welcome rein Is given taste. Today we choosa-llko free women what we shall wear and are not tyrannically chosen for. It picture hats are not becoming we choose toques. If turbans do not suit we wear sailors. A lordly opportunity this to express our souls to vote, garmently speaking. Some -women of us, indeed, do look as If they had simply blossomed out of their inner consciousness into a beautiful toilet; others of us are the creatures of chance, and look as if their clothes had boon hurled at them by a tornado. Some of us, otherwise good and true, have a sort of inborn want of taste and wear too bright colors', too many glass beads, too much hair, and a combination at discord ant materials, which causes the heart of a good dresser to smart with anguish. This want of taste runs across the character like an intellectual bar sinister, forcing us to believe that, their conclusions arc anything- "but legitimate We know how it offends us to see a person in a dress which Is inappropriate. A Chief Justice in the war paint and feathers of an Indian chief would scarcely be listened to, even if his utterances were those of a Jay or a Marshal. It takes a great person, a courageous person, to bear the shame of unbecoming dress; and no doubt to a na ture shy, passionate, proud and poor the necessity for wearing poor or unbecoming clothes has done injury for life. He despised himself, for his weakness, but the weak ness remained. Perhaps to their taste In dress French women- owe much of their easy civility and their success In social politics, and herein women arc far more fortunate than men, for they can always ask, "Is It becoming?" and add the handkerchief, fan. muff or mantle for trembling hands. Neatness and simple elegance are the shibboleths of good taste, and after that one may be as expensive as one please If 'only at the right time. Vulgarity Is Teadily seen unfier the costliest garments. There should be harmony and fitness and suitability as to times and seasons and purposes. A gorgeously dressed woman in the proper place Is a fine sight. A tastefully dressed womaa Is she who understands "herself and her 'surroundings. r Some Beautiful Belt Novelties New Collars You Can Make