The Sunday Oregonian., March 05, 1905, PART FOUR, Page 39, Image 41

THE" STHSUXXt OEGO?sLN, POFHIAOT, TABCH 5, 1905.
The New Sleeves
How to Finish Off a Waist
THE graceful sleeve that Is No. 6 of those shown in
the upper halt of the page, expresses the newest
modes in sleevedom, the fullness at the shoulder,
the elbow length for afternoon wear, and the fashion
able "Winter trimmings of fur and lace.
For a Spring frock the fur would naturally give place
o some other material, particularly the dress material
8 roper.
The pattern is composed of three parts. The lining of
the sleeve out along a straight line, the dots mark oft the
under part of the sleeve. The second part ls'tho sleeve
c ut In a straight line from a single piece on the line A B;
the plaits are denoted by the indentures. The two cuts
i'yr the small of the arm are shown by an indenture.
The third part is the side cuff of the sleeve, with a
notch showing where it is fastened "to the lining of the
sleeve.
The leg-o'-mutton sleeve "has been quite adopted, set
ting in motion a series of causes which make it impossi
ble to wear the boas which long have been necessities
Muth the sloping-shouldered gowns.
Furthermore, the drooping, sweeping hats havo been
necessarily ostracized by this new fullness of sleeve near
the neok.
Hats finally have had to take upward lines, as If to
flee from encroaching lines, perching an feminine heads
1'ke small crowns, or soemlng but the point where a
paroche of waving plumes takes its hold.
Sleeves, If not short, are at least an inoh or two above
the wrist
This in its turn means that four-button gloves are ao
longer possible with afternoon gowns.
The six and eight-button lengths are needed, with a
bracelet If liked covering the bare space above the wrist.
The pattern printed on this page is of the sleeve No. 6.
No. 1 in the group is the new leg-o'-mutton sleeve of
the now accepted shape. Nos. 2 and 3 the new evening
eicctc. BuiiaoiB ior suK. velvet, etc., being an elbow
EleeVe full at the tOT). anrl flttori mMfnllv ti
below, -while its companion is intended for chiffon and its
jwuurca ciJuuaBunmes, &tugea at tno inside or tne arm,
and finished off with graduated kilted frills. No. 4 is a
beautiful sleeve for blouses or dmi.innte
further decorated by bands of fur, while a pointed cuff of
guipure forms vIts completion; and No. 5 is a charming
presentment qi ice rucjcea gisot.
THERE are several ways of finishing off waists. As a
rule, when there Is a tight-fitting lining this Is cut
off at the waist, even though the outer material is car
ried a little below it. The material should be left open
at the side seams (and at the center of the back also
where there Is no fullness at the -waist), and the edges
hemmed and well pressed.
A strip of linen binding should be laid along the waist
over the raw edge of the linings and stitched on by both
its edges.
A nice method of finishing silk waists that are not to
be laundered is to arrange the edge of the silk over an
ordinary belting. t
Tfje latter should be sot well down to the waist.
This when basted must be stitched along the lower
edge and a quarter of an .inch above that.
On no account stitch It higher, as by leaving the band
otherwise free of the bodice portion it will hold the whole
garment nicely down in place, -which it will not do if not
free in the manner described.
One or three hooks and eyes should always bo ar
ranged at the back to secure the skirt to the waist.
The advantage of this plan is evident in having abso
lutely nothing to sink below the waist.
When the bodice Is worn outside the" skirt the lower
edge should bo finished off with Tlbbon or binding, ac
cording to the depth below the waist line. -
When fitting first see that the hodlce Is setting well
down to the waist at back.
Next, pin the front linos together from the neck to the
waist. ,
At the latter place do not let out If too tight, as by so
doing you immediately altor the set of the darts and give
a broad, sraight effect -which is unsightly.
Make the required enlargement at the under-arm seam,
throwing the front of bodice more forward.
Make any required fitting at the waist before touch
ing the upper part unless the bodice Is a little, short
waisted. and by lowering the shoulder a little this may be
rectified; in such a case, open the shoulders and pin them
temporarily together, fitting them properly after fitting
the waist. ...
It too long-walstod. pin a tuck all round the waist line
in the lining and stitch it along each piece when they
are all separated.
If there Is more fullness than is needed just in the
front of the armhole an Interlining of fine French canvas,
the best kind of padding, will mako it set quite smoothly.
Or, take up a small dart from the armhole edge, taper,
ing it off to nothing, at about the center or below the top
of the back dart.
For a figure which sinks in much at the armhole, it Is
always a great improvement to put an interlining of fine
French canvas in the fprm of a wide binder, and cut on
the same way of the thread as the lining and material of
bodice are. "
It should be finely basted or stitched on to the lining in
rows about an inch apart.
It cannot be done simply by placing it in position with
out securing it, as the result of so doing will only be
much more decided creases than if no canvas had been
used.
.In altering a shoulder-seam and stretching the front
edge, always place the armhole ends together and stitch
it towards the neck end, where any surplus may be cut off.
If this Is reversed, the armhole edge just in front of
the shoulder-hone will stand out In a most unsatisfactory
manner. i
In fitting a sleeve, the elbow should first be exactly in
the right place, and any difference in the lengths above
and below made at cither end as required.
To let out or take in a sleeve without altering the
shape, 'do so at the outer seam.
To take in the Inner seam makes a a straight sleeve
and to let it out makes a more cured one.
In fitting It to the armhole, the sleeve should' be placed
so that It sets straight on the -upper arm, and when pinned
in -will not draw if the arm Is raised and held forward.
When it does so in the front the inner scam is too far
under and requires moving forward.
. The under edge of the sleeve should be stretched to the
armhole; the upper part eased, gathered, or plaited, as
fashion decrees.
The surest way of fitting a sleeve In is to pin it to tfie
bodice the whole way round while on the figure.
In putting a collar on. see that Its lower edge sets ex
actly -where a crease on the neck edge of the bodice indi
cates the bend of the neck. .
The collar must always be slightly larger to allow for
Its being an outer one of two circles.
The lines made by the pins down the center of the
front must be carefully marked and all necessary edges
and margins required for the arrangement of the fasten
ings must be allowed outside those lines, -which must be
exactly down the center when the bodice Is fastened.
They should be placed so as to represent, respectively,
the shank of tho button in a buttoned bodice or the exact
edge In a hooked one.
The Importance of Taste in Dress
LET us be tasteful or hide.
Today, -when the edicts of the fashion queen are
lalssez faire edicts and graciously allow each subject to
follow her own particular caprice, free and welcome rein
Is given taste.
Today we choosa-llko free women what we shall wear
and are not tyrannically chosen for.
It picture hats are not becoming we choose toques.
If turbans do not suit we wear sailors.
A lordly opportunity this to express our souls to vote,
garmently speaking.
Some -women of us, indeed, do look as If they had
simply blossomed out of their inner consciousness into a
beautiful toilet; others of us are the creatures of chance,
and look as if their clothes had boon hurled at them by
a tornado.
Some of us, otherwise good and true, have a sort of
inborn want of taste and wear too bright colors', too many
glass beads, too much hair, and a combination at discord
ant materials, which causes the heart of a good dresser
to smart with anguish.
This want of taste runs across the character like an
intellectual bar sinister, forcing us to believe that, their
conclusions arc anything- "but legitimate
We know how it offends us to see a person in a dress
which Is inappropriate.
A Chief Justice in the war paint and feathers of an
Indian chief would scarcely be listened to, even if his
utterances were those of a Jay or a Marshal.
It takes a great person, a courageous person, to bear
the shame of unbecoming dress; and no doubt to a na
ture shy, passionate, proud and poor the necessity for
wearing poor or unbecoming clothes has done injury for
life.
He despised himself, for his weakness, but the weak
ness remained.
Perhaps to their taste In dress French women- owe
much of their easy civility and their success In social
politics, and herein women arc far more fortunate than
men, for they can always ask, "Is It becoming?" and add
the handkerchief, fan. muff or mantle for trembling hands.
Neatness and simple elegance are the shibboleths of
good taste, and after that one may be as expensive as one
please If 'only at the right time.
Vulgarity Is Teadily seen unfier the costliest garments.
There should be harmony and fitness and suitability as
to times and seasons and purposes.
A gorgeously dressed woman in the proper place Is a
fine sight.
A tastefully dressed womaa Is she who understands
"herself and her 'surroundings.
r
Some Beautiful Belt Novelties
New Collars You Can Make