STANDING side by side the tailor
made girl of today and her sister of
three years ago -would not be recog
nised as- relatives, so vastly different are
they In appearance The term tailor
made, as applied to the femlnino "ward
robe, no longer suggests a severely man
nish gown as it once did, but a suit,
stitched. It is true, with tailored seams,
but rendered dressy and ornate with mod
ish trimmings of embroidery, bands, tabs
and buttons. Time -was -when a smartly
dressed -woman 'boasted one handsome tai
lored frock a year; now, she always has
two, and frequently three and more. Friv
olous little suits -with short Jackets, dig
nified, tight-fitting, long-coated garments,
and skirts and coats cut after half-length
models, are all classified -with tailor-mades
If finished -with the fine workmanship of
men's garments. And they are "worn in
the morning, at noon or In the evening.
Jaunty little short coats predominate
In the models displayed for early Spring
THE TIDY-GIRL PAPERS
AT TIMES tho Tidy Girl has puck
ered up her brow and questioned
the worth of her plecebag, won
dering whether it paid rent for the space
it occupied. Now, whenever he looks at
a fashion book, she gives the bag a men
tal hug and wonders how she ever doubt
ed its value. Never has a season pre
sented such possibilities for the plecebag
in its voguo for lace sleevelets, tuckers
and chemisettes, jabots, chiffon choux
and flowers, dangling cord and velvet
trimmings and mosaic-like applications.
The handy girl can put all sorts of fash
ionable touches to her,wardrobe from the
contents of her plecebag, and, if she is
also the Tidy Girl, sho has these same
contents wrapped neatly In Individual
bundles or pinned together carefully.
The plecebag is not necessarily a bag.
It may be a box or It may bo a drawer;
it may be even a small-sized trunk up
holstered and disguised as a window seat.
But it is in the inside, not the outside,
that the Tidy Girl rejoices, at present,
and at the end of tho season she is likely
to find her stock of odds and ends per
ceptibly depleted.
The girl who has her frocks and blouses
made at homo Is more likely to have a
well-filled plecebag than the girl who
buys her clothes ready made or has them
built by a dressmaker away from home.
True, the latter girl might not find such
possibilities in a piecebag, but neither
will she have so many pretty little hand
made accessories to her garments.
A well-filled hag has an endless variety
of bits of material, from plain white
muslin to scraps of finest silk, panne
velvet and broadcloth left over from the
tailored suit. It has bolts of edging and
Insertion picked up at sales, squares of
fancy silk, applique trimmings, cords and
tassels and laces, ribbons, feathers, flow
ers and buckles taken from dismantled
hats. Perhaps a few fur tails which havo
been In the family for years, or an old
laco scarf that belonged to grandmother,
a set of coral buttons, beaded fringe, bro
caded velvet squares, all these things are
found in the plecebag, and from them
may be fashioned innumerable dress ac
cessories demanded in the present vogue
for trimming.
Usually, the contents of the piecebag
are not fresh looking, as many of them
have been put away after having, been
ripped off a gown or waist or hat, and no
Tidy Girl ever uses a piece of material
or trimming without first freshening It up
wear, but there are still a great many
modish suits built with the long Jacket,
which has become eo dear to the heart
of the woman with commanding lines.
"When the woman who has beon wearing
the long coat for several seasons adopts
the short Jacket she feels that sho has
dropped a portion of her dignity, but she
will have to become accustomed to It If
she would be quite up to date. Some
times the short coat Is fitted, a 26 or 25
inch length, with a vest and cuffs of a
contrasting color, embroidered and
stitched; other models show loose fronts,
with bolero effect and trimmed with ruf
fles of lace in front and below the puff
of the sleeves.
All short Jackets in 1905 are termed
"blouse" coats, but only the fashion In
ventor who applied the name knows why
he did It; the garments hardly blouse at
all save in the easy lines Into which
they are drawn at the front of the girdle.
In the back a postillion of some variety
Invariably finishes the short coat, the pep
lum or basquine reaching well around
over the hips. The drooping shoulder has
given way to broad, artificial lines, which
The Piece Bag and Its Possibilities.
and pressing it to make it look as nearly
like new as possible. And the metal buc
kles or buttons must be polished and
brightened before they can be used. Steel
buttons or buckles, bo much used In fash
ionable Jackets and hats just now, may
bo brightened with silver polish and a
brush. Jet sometimes becomes dingy
looking, especially if it has been exposed
to salt sea air, and it may be cleaned
with a little sweet oil on a wad of cotton
and afterwards polished with an old glove.
So many of the embroideries on the
Spring gowns seem to bo of heavy cord
lace when, in rcalllty, it is not a lace but
a trimming made by tho handworkers in
tho dressmakers' establishments from
cord, sowed together and twisted and
curled into artistic designs. Any girl who
is at all handy with her needle may do
this with a few bolts of cord in the color
she desires. The girl who is artistic will
draw her own patterns on scrim or paper,
and apply the cord, although she may
have a pattern stamped at an embroid
ery shop.
Another form of trimming suits this
season Is with queer little applications,
which look ltke the tiles in tho fireplace
hearth, but which are made from bits of
broadcloth or other woolen fabric,
stitched on in squares, triangles or cir
cles like a crazy quilt and finished with
a narrow braid or cord, or even a piping
of the material. Fox Instance, a skirt of
navy blue broadcloth may have one of
these mosaic-like applications in the cen
ter of each gore as a trimming. The de
sign might be of two or three shades of
blue broadcloth applied in triangles of the
different shades and finished at the edges
with a black or dark blue cord.
Perhaps last Summer a girl had an em
broidered muslin gown, the blouse of
which is now worn beyond repair, but the
skirt of which Is comparatively good. If
she has decided that she does not want to
wear the skirt again with a waist to har
monize, she has. doubtless, put it away in
her plecebag, sans band, sans any sort
of shape, just the plain piece of soiled em
broidery. Now, when embroidered muslin,
hats are all-fashionable for Summer, she
may utilize this skirt for making one.
The material must bo washed In ' warm
water and a white soap with a touch of
bluing in the rinsing water, to take out
the yellowness, and carefully pressed.
Then it can be arranged over a hat frame
and trimmed with cream or pink roses
and maybe a black velvet bow.
Velvet Is sure to be among the con
tents of the plecebag, and it is Just as
sure to need Steaming if It has-been. used
the Sunday
XJ277f JS&ZJGATa'VS 2F.TLZAC
have been threatening to become fashion
able for some months.
The sleeve is of great Importance. The
tendency In the Spring fashion Is to em
phasize the small, round waist, and to this
end have the sleeves forfeited the grace
that has been theirs for seasons. Extra
layers of material, plcatings of crinoline
and cages of fine wire work and feather
bone are employed In broadening tho
shoulders, but all of these devices are
hidden so that the great sleeves stand
out, apparently, of their own free will.
The mere man who dares ask a young
woman what sort of cage sho has In her
sleevo will receivo a glance of scorn; that
Is her secret and her modiste's. But that
same man will have to stand obediently
by and shove tho overgrown, sleeves Into
a coat, for. they appear on blouses as
well as on Jackets.
The lighter weight fabrics are preferable
for early Spring gowns, as they may be
worn, off and on, all during the Summer
for water trips, mountain traveling and
before. To freshen up a small piece of
velvet, lay it down flat with a damp cloth
on the back, and apply a hot Iron to the
cloth. If It is a large piece it Is well to
fill a basin with boiling water and stretch
the velvet over It so that the steam may
push up through it and raise and brighten
the nap. Velvet ribbon Is treated in the
same way.
Occasionally a girl puts her old veils
away In her plecebag after she has worn
them until they are out of style or she
tires of them. If she wants to take them
out to wear again they are hopelessly
creased, and all the stiffness is gone. A
veil Is stiffened and made to look like
new by dipping It in water Into which
a little gum arable has been dissolved.
This is also a good way for stiffening
laces. Sweetened water serves the same
purpose for laces, and if an ecru tint 13
desired, sweetened coffee water is the so
lution Into which to dip them. Old laces
which are stained and greasy
should be put into sweet oil for several
hours, then taken out and sewed onto
white muslin, tacking every scallop and
point carefully, and wrapped about a roll-lng-pln
and hung over a kettle. Pour cold
soap suds made from a pure soap over
It, and boil until clean. Rinse the lace
without removing it from the muslin and
dry In the hot sun.
Soft leather and kid crush belts are be
ing worn with tailored shirtwaists, and
for these accessories there Is nothing so
serviceable as the skin purchased at a
glove store or furrier's. From a whole
skin, which can bo purchased either In
the natural color or dyed, for as low as
a dollar, several, girdles and turnover
cuffs and collar sets may be made. Soft
gray kid with the natural rough edge
makes a smart belt to wear with the gray
pedestrian skirts so much in vogue. Every
really complete .plecebag has some bits
of leather or kid.
So often a bit of material in the. piece
bag could be used If the Tidy Girl knew
how to take out the marks of machine
stitching. The cloth should be dampened
and allowed to dry, naturally, to permit
the threads to go back into place. Then
the goods should be smoothed out and
ironed with a slightly damp cloth over It
This will not always take out the stitch
marks, but it Is usually an effective
method.
From the bits of ribbon left over from
numerous stocks and collars, hats and
fancy work, the prettiest pf ribbon flowers
.may bo made to trim an .evening corsage
- amsasrEs,
cool evenings In the' country- Mohairs,
silk, homespuns, chiffon broadcloths,
Sicilian cloths and fine, thin worsteds
have found favor with the suitmaker for
Spring garments. And there is a decided
leaning toward hairline stripes, indefin
able plaids and shepherd's checks rather
than to the plain materials. Frequently
a coat is of plain cloth, with a vest and
cuffs of a checked fabric to correspond
with the skirt. Such a suit was among
the recent Importations, the checked skirt
In a mouse-gray and white, being strapped
with plain band? of broadcloth.
Kilted and plain box-plaited skirts have
been pushed a little to the background
and have been superceded by the model
with groups and clusters of plaits. Occa
sionally, deep set-on plaits Join a plain
back and front panel. Although eminent
ly unbecoming to the average woman, the
over skirt Is wedging Its unwelcome pres
ence into the fashionable world. It In
volves quantities of material, thus in
creasing tho cost of the gown, and it is a
heavy garment to wear. Only the tall
woman dares to don an ovcrsktrt, and she
usually does It Just to show her shorter
or for a hair spray. Even the old chiffon
veils In white or colors may be formed
into flowers with a little Ingenuity and
some milliner's leaves.
The plecebag affords unlimited oppor
tunities for pretty and inexpensive arti
cles of wearing apparel, as well as for
mending, but the ingenious girl does not
always disclose her secrets, she does not
always tell her friends that the new hat
they are admiring so extravagantly wat
made from her last Summer's party dress,
nor that her bolero was built from the
bits of ribbon and lace from the -hat of
two Summers ago. Neither does she tell
that the neat tailored kid turnover and
cuffs on her new shepherd's check shirt
waist suit are made out of the tops of
her discarded evening gloves. No; that
would be like the small boy whose new
suit was made of old curtains, and well,
the Tidy Girl doe) not exercise the small
boy's prerogative to tell. She just con
tinues to cling to her piecebag and to
watch the bargain sales for lace and rib
bons 'and buttons with which to replenish
it frdm time to time.
RUBY DOUGLAS.
To Serve With Meat and Fish.
Apple sauce, with roast pork.
Mint sauce, with roast lamb.
Oyster and chestnut dreslng, with
roast turkey.
"Walnut catsup, with venison.
Current Jelly, with roast goose.
Celery sauce, with quail.
Tart grape Jelly, with canvasback
duck.
Orange salad, with roast chicken.
Cream gravy, strawberry preserves,
with fried chicken.
Celery and onion dressing, with roast
duck.
Olives stuffed with cheese, with cold
tongue.
Chicken croquettes, with' sauce tar
tare. Olives stuffed with peppers, with fish
balls. '
Parmesan cheese, with beef and veal
sausage.
Tomato catsup, with pork sausage.
Horseradish and fried onions, with
liver.
Cucumber catsup, with corned beef.
Apple sauce, with pork croquettes.
Sauce tartare, with boiled lobster.
French dressing, with sardines.
"White sauce, hard boiled eggs and
parsley, with boiled salmon.
Sauce plquante, with baked shad.
Melted butter saacv. with mackerel.
Cream sauce, with sweetbreads.
Sfaltre d'hotel sauce, with steamed
oysters.
"Didn't thxt feurgter . take yens- briatb
awayT" "So. fc left Ut- It ni about
the only tklng dlta't take." Detrelt Free
ibgh jOms:
sisters that sho can and will bo fash
ionable. A pretty suit built with the double skirt
effect is of brown and white shepherd's
check mohair, with trimmings of grad
uated widths of brown velvet ribbon. Both
upper and underskirt are laid In shallow
plaits, stitched well down over the hips;
and each skirt Is edged with rows of the
velvet. The little coat is trimmed with
rows of the ribbon arranged in four right
angles pointing toward the center or the
garment. It is drawn easily Into the high
brown satin girdle. The sleeves come
Just below tho elbow, and they, too, are
trimmed with velvet ribbon. The neck
and fronts arc finished with pleating? of
muslin and lace.
Innumerable shades of blue are seen in
the shops and as many fancy names have
been attached to them 'by the importers.
The old question light blue, dark blue or
blue-blue Is no longer asked; it is Army
blue. Navy-blue, postman's blue, viollne,
Bky-bluo and a dozen other- names. A
model built from a blue light-weight wool
The Elbow -
GENUINELY beautiful arms are Na
ture's gift to few women. Neverthe
less, the up-to-date girl Is determined to
wear short-sleeved bodices, and sho has
resurrected the bracelet as a happy medi
um between brief arm coverings and
lanky or unsymmetrical arms. This brace
let sho wears on one arm only, either -the
right or left, as her choice may be. Grand
mother's heavy gold and cameo bracelets
are being brought from their satin cases,
where they have lain unused so many
years. Jewels, Imitation or real, are
linked almost Invisibly to form a brilliant
circlet, and silver and gold bands are a
favorite clasp to break the long stretch
of bare arm between wrist and sleeve.
Fantastic as many of the new bracelets
are In their design, flat, tight-fitting
bands are In highest favor. When of
rose gold these bands are delicately
carved in scroll pattern and often have
the owner's monogram or crest Inscribed
on them. They arc especially charming
when Inlaid with tiny variegated stones.
One pearl or an emerald Is sometimes
Bet into these broad bands, and they are
Earthenware for Kitchen
HOUSEWIVES, take counsel from your
English and French sisters! Do your
cooking with earthenware mixers and in
earthenware dishes, and keep your staple
cooking materials in earthenware jars.
They can be kept spotlessly clean, and
Ingredients are much more palatably
blended when cooked in their thick walls,
the cooking process continuing after a
dish Is removed from the fire. Crockery,
not being able to withstand the direct
blaze, can never be of unlimited service
In the kitchen, but it Is decreed by for
algn housewives, who have used It for
years, to be by far the most satisfactory
kind of utensil In every other way.
The casserole is the piece of crockery
which American women need most to
learn the value of. No one dish offers so
many possibilities for combining and serv
ing vegetables in an unrecognizable form
and for cooking meats In new and sav
ory guises. In the French ware casse
roles have a pretty light exterior, while
in German ware they have a dark brown
glaze. They are lined with the whitest
of porcelain, and may be bought In .in
dividual xecectaclea or in larga flishre.
en fabric has a tiny vest of a much light
er shade and cuffs to correspond. Strap
pings of silk are applied as trimming
both on the short coat and on the skirt.
The skirt is made with a flounce, which
i3 cut In one piece with the front panel.
It just escapes the ground.
Rough silks showing a bonretted weave
have found favor in tho redlngote styles
because of their almost imperceptible
weight. One model In a bluish purple
shade, popularly known as pale prune
color, has a skirt which falls, plain but
very full, to the hem, where it is held
out in crinoline fashion by means of
fcatherbone. Tho coat has broad hands
both in back and front, disposed surpllce
wise and edged with handsome Oriental
embroideries. Epaulettes and ornamenta
tions of hand-made twine laco are applied
to the coat and sleeves. The skirt por
tion lies In pressed plaits and Is open at
the side. The sleeve Is built out on the
shoulder, but not to an exaggerated de
gree, the puff being only moderately large.
Another attractive Spring model Is fash
ioned of gray broken-checked suiting, and
Sleeves Revive
worn half, way to tlra elbow, securely
clasped to prevent their slipping, and
giving the effect of the old-fashioned ban
gle. Silver bands have a birth stone
mounted in them, which' is effective when
surrounded by diamonds.
A bracelet to match the dog collar will
be a fad of wealthy women during the
coming season, and topaz will be a stone
greatly In evidence for both pieces of jew
elry. A necklace of large topaz has a
bracelet of these lustrous yellow stones
set In gold and linked .with tiny gold
rings. Six or eight strands of coral beads,
held together by bars of rhlnestones or
diamonds and clasped by a bar of the
brilliants, will accompany a dog collar of
coral. Jet beads are also joined by rhlne
stone bars to form bracelet and dog col
lar. And the very costly diamond neck
laces and dog collars have filigrees of
diamonds or diamonds and emeralds to
wear on the left arm.
Bands of .jet 'have jet icicles dangling
from them, and are worn with very short
sleeves in the middle of the upper arm.
A gold snake is wound in many colls
about the upper arm. and has the head
erect as though ready to spring, while
In either size they are sent to the table
just as they have been taken from the
stove, thus' keeping the contents piping
hot until It is served. Covers of the
large dishes often have a miniature rab-.
bit or brace of partridge molded on the
top Instead of a handle, the casserole
being a favorite way in which to cook
game and poultry of all sorts.'
Small shallow dishes with long handles
in this same earthenware furnish a most
satisfactory means of serving -shirred
eggs, as they retain their heat so long
when cooked In these individual recepta
cles. Individual pots for cooking and
serving beans are made of royal blue
crockery.
A kitchen never looks so tidy as when
its shelves are . covered with oilcloth
topped by white earthenware jars for
holding rice, raisins and all the small
staple goods needed in cooking, and which
are so often strewn around In mussy
looking bags. Both the large-sized jars
and smaller oneo for spices are attractive
in simple patterned delft ware? on which
the name of the contents Is printed In
blue
An. -entire outfit for preparing, ingre
is cut to clear the ground for street wear,
The blouse is built in tiers, and is
ished below the waist with a double pep
lum. The sleeves are puffed after a fa
vorite fashion of the hour, and the cuffs;
flare over the hand. Tho skirt shows tha
return of tho shaped flounce cut in ona
with the front breadth, a trick only ac
quired by the tailor of long experience.
A black and white checked suit mads
with the double skirt and short jacket 13
of lustrous mohair. The skirts lie in
plalt3 to the edge, where a four-Inch
band of black taffeta Is applied with rows
and rows of stitching. The coat is plait
ed into the narrow girdle of plain, black
taffeta and small revers of black are
trimmed with white braid, fancifully ar
ranged. Black Jet buttons add a touch
which Is decidedly jaunty. The sleeves
are plaited Into a flaring cuff of black.
Separate skirts for early Spring wear,
with the all-serviceable covert cloth jack
et, are made from the same materials
used In the seasonable suits, and show
much tho same style as the two-piece suit
skirts. Checks of all varieties are stitched
with plain bands of a harmonizing color,
and mohair and thin worsted materials
are most in favor. Separate skirts for
pedestrian purposes are made to clear the
ground perceptibly.
Girdles of the same color are worn with
the walking skirt, while with the dressy
blouses and skirts the girdle matches the
waist. KATHERLNB ANDERSON.
the Bracelet
some brilliant stone is set in the mouth.
These sinuous bracelets are also made of
small bands of gunmetal and are studded
with rhlnestones. A society woman of
eccentric tastes wears always on her
right arm, when in evening dress, a suc
cession of platinum bands, with a
haughty peacock of diamonds and emer
alds joining the bands on the outside of
the arm.
There is no prettier nor safer method
for carrying a watch than when it la
securely set Into a bracelet, which is
usually made of bars of gold or silver,
interlaced diagonally, as are the Iron bars
of a streetcar gate. These bars can be
opened wide or closed tightly so as to fit
snugly about any wrist. Another way for
carrying a watch Is to have it set in a
leather bracelet which buckles around tha
wrist.
Oriental effects show wonderfully ar
tistic workmanship. A bracelet In oxi
dized silver has a bunch of leaves and
grapes on either side of a big ruby. Each
grape Is represented by a wee pearl.
Large amethysts are linked Into a circlet,
and a succession of gold loop3 each, con
tains a peacock eye.
Utensils
dients for cooking is made of blue and
white delft ware, and. with the excep
tion of the rolling board, each article may
be suspended on the knobs of a wall
plaque which has a porcelain delft cen- '
ten The outfit contains a muddler oc
ball-shaped Crockery mixer, a crockery
strainer, , a rolling pin with wooden
bandies and porcelain cylinder, a cabbage
cutter with porcelain body and steel knife
edge, a pancake lifter, a meat beater, a
soup ladle and a potato masher. The
pastry board has a square porcelain cen
ter with wooden borders: Each article
shows some quaint Dutch scene in delft
blue, and the whole outfit costs just 57.87.
Another receptacle which no kitchen
should be without a stone water cooler.
This is in the form of a keg. and is
equipped with a-small faucet for draw
ing oft the water and a separate com
partment for ice.
Attractive flower pots for the kitchen
are of highly glazea. German ware, sau
cer and pot belnsr surrounded with wide
nickel bands.
Fred What do you think of" ray argu
ment? Will Sound: it Iscartalnly sound.
Fred And what else? WHI-Nothlng else
merely Bound.' 'Washington XJfe.