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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 5, 1905)
THE SUNDAY OBEGONIJl PORTLAlfD, MAEOH 5, 1905.
HOW THE OTHER HALF OF THE WORLD LIVES
Glimpse of City Life in Brussels d 150,000 Dogs as
Draft Animals i By G. W. Burton.
BRUSSELS Is In many -ways one or
the most interesting cities in Eu
rope. It Is called "Little Taxis,"
because of Its beauty. Its -wealth, its art.
anfl the gay life of the people. The city ;
numbers about 509.000 inhabitants, and Is I
divided Into the old city and the new.
Boulevards 250 feet wide occupy the place
vrhero the wall of the old city once Tan.
Outside of these lie the new additions,
which are In some respects suburbs of
the old city. Passing; through Brussels
one turns suddenly from one of these new
streets 250 feet wide, where the houses
have all been built within the last 50
years, some ,of them but just completed.
Into a street of the old city, a mere alley
20 feet wide, perhaps only 10 feet, with
sidewalks in the narrowest part only a
foot wide. Most of the retail business Is
done In this old city, and along some of
these narrowest streets. Others of these
eld alleys are veritably human beehives,
so packed are they with human beings.
They fairly swarm with children, who
roll along the sidewalks, and even Into
the streets. In many of these old nar
row street the bouses are as they stood
in the Middle Ages, when the Spaniards
ruled the Low Countries, and Charles V
of Spain was Emperor of Germany.
Hue de la Madeleine is one of the oldest
Btreets in.the city. It is 15 feet wide in
the roadway, with sidewalks two to three
feet wide. It is, in fact, three streets.
This Is one of the striking peculiarities of
Brussels. Mftst of the streets in parts
new or old run straight for only a few
blocks, and then go off at an angle any
where between 45 and ISO degrees from a
right line. At each turn, no matter
how slight, the name changes. And such
names as these Brussels streets have, Slx-loung'-Men
street, NIgbt-and-Day street.
Three-Heads street. Sugar street. Butter
street. In some instances the boule
vards bear one name onvone side and a
different one on the other side. The
stranger has more chances to lose him
self in ten minutes here than in any other
city I have ever seen. Boston is not to
be compared to Brussels. This Madeleine
street and its two extensions, zig-zag
many times in their course, and all along
is a compact line of small stores, such
little places to do business in. But they
do business. This street is alive with
humanity all the hours of the day and
far Into the night, crowding each other
off the narrow sidewalks into the hardly
lefss narrow streets. Down the street
come carriages gay in their trappings,
with coachmen and footmen In liveries as
brilliant as General Miles used to wear.
Tramcars that run- here, there and yon
der without rails, others on the rails,
come thundering down this alley pell
mell, or go up the hill with drivers yell
ing and whips cracking like pistol shots.
It is a case of suave qui peut If you get
in the way of any sort of vehicle and es
cape alive the driver will have you ar
rested for being in his way. If he runs
over you while you axe on the sidewalk
and you survive, you have your turn in
the courts against him.
A Vision of Babel.
These little "shops" are the most
artistic things I have ever seen. They
are gay with "picture hats," with rich
gowns and wraps, with skirts a- maze of
lace, with jewelry, with ornaments in
bronze. In bisque, in glass. In ivory. There
Its Social Side as
TANFORD UNIVERSITY;. CaL. Feb.
28. iSpcclal Correspondence of The
Sunday Oregonlan.) Stanford life Is
unique. This Is especially true of the life
of the Stanford woman, because of the
conditions imposed upon her. Only 500
women aro admitted. All of these have
entered on full standing, and none has
entered as special. A special Is a stu
dent over 21 years of age, who is taking
work on some special subject and Is not
striving for a degree. "The omission of
specials prevents many school teachers
from taking work at Stanford. These two
limitations imposed upon the entering
claeses of women raise the standard o"f
scholarship to a very high mark and pre
pare th6 way for an onthuslastlc alumni.
There are at present 4S3 women regis
tered at Stanford. Ninety of these live
at Roble Hall, the girls' dormitory: 30
at Madrone Hall, an annex to Roble;
about 100 at the six sorority houses on the
campus, and the rest are divided between
San Jose, Palo Alto and the private
dwellings on the rampus. Very few live
at San Jose, and make the one-half-hour
train trip morning and evening. Quite
a few live in Palo Alto, the university
town, which is only a mile from the cam
pus, and a number rent rooms at the
various faculty houses on the campus
and board at the dormitories.
Roble Hall Is the center of the woman's
world, as Enclna, the men's dormitory,
is the center of the men's world. Every
girl has a roommate, the upper classmen
being given choice of rooms and room
mates! As. a result, the fourth floor,
the last floor, usually contains a collec
tion of freshmen, who drive away the
first attack of homesickness by midnight
spreads and juvenile pranks.
, Roble has a matron at its head, to en
force the few rules that the faculty has
made, and to look out for the' welfare
of the girls. The rules, as above stated,
are very few. They are, first, all the
inmates must be Indoors at 10 o'clock
on week nights and 1030 on Fridays and
Saturdays; second, bicycles must not be
kept in the halls; third, kerosene must
not be used in the hall. Self-government
is the policy of Stanford University.
Never have the girls shown themselves
unworthy of the trust. They are all girls
from good families, with good, sensible
ideas, and a sense of honor.
Every evening after dinner the girls
gather In the parlor, the freshmen pull
up the rugs, some one plays the piano,
and an hour or so Is spent in dancing.
Spreads are very much in vogue, and
roommates are constantly entertaining
their friends. At 1030 P. M... when the
lights go out, candles are brought In. and
the fun, if not too boisterous, continues
till a late hour. The hostesses furnish
the "cats" and the guests provide amply
for the rest of the entertainment. Often
they come in fancy garb, and then the
fun waxes fast and furious. A sufficient
supply of mandolins, guitars and good
voices are always on hand, and when
Jokes lag, college songs fill up the gaps.
Dances and Fancy Dress Balls.
Roble gives two dances a year, one a
semester, in the girls gymnasium. For
days before the hills are fitted with girls
carrying home holly and greens for the
decorations. On Saturday, the day of the
dance, the hall is stripped of pillows,
rugs and pictures to beautify tho "gym."
The party closes at midnight as do all
university entertainments, and Roble re
tires Jrom the social whirl for another
Roble also gives a fancy dress ball to
are picture stores and furniture stores,
and of course the inevitable patisserie,
or cakeshop. These are everywhere, and.
such wonders in the way of cakes and
pies. Tarts they call pies. And these
stores are full from morning to night
with the fashion of Brussels, the ladies
shopping. Right and left from this Eu
ropean Broadway for that it is in spite
of its narrowness run old streets not
ten feet wide. They twist and zigzag
here and there, and swarm with urchins,
boys and girls, thick as (lies. One hears
French and Flemish. English and Ger
man, Italian and Swedish, as he passes
along. The idea of Babel presses on
A Vision of Beauty.
Tarn a little to the right from the
Madeleine, and" there arises before the
astonished eyes of a Western American
a vision of perfect beauty In the Cathedral
of St. Michael and 8t. Gudule. It is not
large, but exquisitely beautiful. The
church dates back to the early part of
the sixth century, when Spain held sway
in all the Low Countries. The architec
ture is medieval Gothic, much modified
by the Moorish, with its slender, grace -
Life of a Stanford Woman
Viewed by One of the Five Hundred Fair Students.
the university women once a semester.
These aro affairs of much anticipation.
Sorority and hall girls break down all
the so-called barriers and Join In one
Jolly good time. The dining-room is
cleared, every available "stunt" is given
and dancing goes on till midnight. At
about midnight Enclna serenades Roble
in its famous nightshirt parade. Each
man wears a nightshirt over his clothes,
and the long white line dances the ser
pentine around Roble, singing eomo foot
ball song, with the inevitable refrain,
"Down with the Gold and Blue."
Once a year Roble presents a farce to
the faculty. The actors are Roble girls
and a few members of the faculty. It
has always been a very successful af
fair, and every one who Is fortunate
enough to attend enjoys It.
Informal and Democratic.
Roble life is very informal and demo
cratic. The girl who makes her way by
washing dishes, waiting on table, or tak
ing care of children finds no discrimina
tion made in regard to her. She only
draws forth admiration for her inde
pendence. Life in a sorority house Is somewhat
different from that In Roble. There are
six sororities at Stanford all National.
They are. In order of establishment.
Kappa Alpha Theta, Kappa Kappa Gam
ma, Delta Gamma,' Alpha Phi, Gamma
Phi Beta and PI Beta Phi. Each con-
tains about 20 girls, and these have been
chosen by the complicated process of
"rushing." During the "rushing season."
which is ended by "bidding" day decided
upon by the sororities, - the sororities
"rush" or cntortaln the freshmen whom
they desire The freshman always has
a good time, especially If two or three
sororities "rush" and "bid" her. But
when she decides which sorority she pre
fers and pledges herself to that one by
putting on its pledge pin, her hilarious
times cease. She realizes that she Is the
youngest sister in every sense of tho
word, and that her older sisters will ex
tinguish every spark of conceit that has
sprung Into life during "rushing season."
She runs errands, answers the doorbell,
the telephone, and does the work In the
sorority house that every freshman has
doae la her dar. But shilso finds Jier
ful minarets rising all , along both sides.
The fretwork on these Is Hke lace, so
line is the design and so perfect in exe
cution. The windows are not 'so old as
the structure, but they are a wonder Of
brilliant colors, blended like the .har
monies in one of Beethoven's composi
tions. .Had we gone the other way, the road
would have led us to the Hotel do VlUe
or City Hall, another old Gotho-Moorish
building of the days of Spanish domina
tion, with a spire reaching far skyward,
as graceful as a pine tree on a mountain
top, and as lac el I ko as the foliage of a
fern. Opposite this. Is the King's House,
also of the medieval period, but massive
rather than fine fretwork, and gorgeous
as barbaric splendor in its gilded orna
mentation. The Draft Dogs of Brussels.
But to pass from things sublime to
something by no means ridiculous, but
strikingly strange to American eyes, the
draft dogs of Brussels furnish a feature
In the city life never to be forgotten.
They are everywhere, generally guided
by a woman or a child. The carts are
mostly two-wheeled, much heavier than
older sisters kind and careful for her
welfare. They guard her scholarship
jealously, for she must make a good
record her first year. They watch her
health and give her good advice when
It Is needed. So the sorority contains
girls who have been chosen for their
abilities and congeniality. There is not
that distinction between sorority and hall
that is so often emphasized, for the so
rority girl Is a Stanford girl first of all,
.and always wears her college pin above
her sorority pin. Sorority life is home
like. The' girls have their own house
mother, and they entertain as much as
they desire, and naturajly are the leaders
of the social world.
Attitude of the Men. .
Tho attitude of the Stanford man to
ward the Stanford girl Is interesting in
the development of coeducation. Co
education has come to stay at Stanford.
The man knows this. But the limit set
upon the number of girls admitted makes
him feel that man's position is assured.
Thus appeased, , he is glad the girl Is
there. He treats her with an air of good
comradeship that Is very wholesome and
helpful for both. An Eastern man, a
graduate from Columbia, recently re
marked that coeducation Is the only so
lution of the problem in the "West. In
the East, the old method Is better, for
the men get their social life at, home.
But in the "West, a large number of young
men come from small country towns and
ItOBKE, THE WOMEN'S DORMITORY, AT STANFORD.
get no social life unless it be at the uni
versity. Stanford girls arc enthusiasts in ath
letics, giving loyal support to the football,
baseball and track teams. They under
stand the games thoroughly, appreciate
the qualities of every player, and stand
by the team, be it winning or losing, and
give ample illustrations of the "Stan
ford spirit." so dear to every student.
What good times they have the day of
the big game "between Stanford and Cal
ifornia! (All go up to San Francisco on
a special train and watch the men as
they march up Market street singing:
Oh, there's a row on Market street the
force Is in despair
The cars are stepped for twenty blocks, the
boy are everywhere
TfTei've marched all over Berkeley tovn. .aad
aung hola lose and. laud.
one would suppose a dog. or even two
dogs, could pull. 'One sees these dogs
hitched 'single or double, the carts', full
of baskets of clothes going to or -from
the laundries, with bread and cakes, with
meat, beer or milk, going from door to
door to deliver the family supplies. These
dogs are not peculiar to Brussels: they
flourish all over Belgium. Thero are estimated-to
be 150,000 draft dogs in the
kingdom. They do farm, work, and work
In the villages and cities wherever one
goes. The first Impression made on an
American is a disagreeable one. Ho can
not help feeling' sorry for the most faith
ful of all animals to man. as he sees
him in this unaccustomed toll, tugging
with all his might at a big cart, while
his feet slip on the rough pavements, and
the pavements of Brussels are hard,
made almost entirely of trap-rock.
But doggie does not seem to be in so
bad a case after all. He is a peculiarly
strong dog, a cross between the old wolf
dog of the ancient - Gauls and the Great
Dane of Germany. Ho Is a stocky, heavy
animal, with broad chest, thick legs and
neck, short, massive head; broad back
and muscular loins and thighs. His
weight Is from SO to 1ST? pounds. These
Of the sad defeat of Hopper and o Captain
The women have their own athletics,
basketball and tennis. In which they are
working up a good deal of enthusiasm.
There are three associations composed
of -women, besides Roble Club and the
sororities. The Woman's League, com
posed of the entire number of women,
supports the efforts put forth by the
women to encourage the Independent life
already established. All the professors'
wives are members and they are brought
in close touch with the girls by means of
the league. The T. W. C A. performs
the same functions that it does ' In all
colleges. Pan-Hellenic is an organization
of the sororities, which forms the rush
ing contracts and promotes social inter
course between, the sorority women.
The cost of living is not exorbitant.
Twenty-seven dollars is the price paid
per month for board and room. Ko tui
tion Is charged. A registration fee of $10
a semester is charged to all students re
siding outside of California. Syllabus and
laboratory fees are charged to cover the
cost of materials used. There Is not much
work for girls who desire to make part
of their way. Work, such as mending,
answering the door at Roble, dishwash
ing, taking care of children, waiting on
table. Is available and pays 20 cents an
hour. But It is -not advisable for girls to
attempt to do more than their college
work. The average girl nearly always
breaks down under the strain.
LBNORE L. WILLIAMS.
Milk Saloons of Warsaw.
The town of Warsaw may bo called
the milk producers Eden, although the
milk 'consumers' Eden it certainly Is
not. There is probably nowhere such a
"milk town" as this. Restaurants are
but little frequented. On the other
hand, the public frequent the various
dairies In great numbers in order to
chat with friends or read tho news
papers, to the accompaniment of a
black or white coffee or a glas3 of cold
or warm milk. -To close a bargain or
to talk business, the milk saloon Is re
sorted to: chess and billiards axe like
wise to be played in these recognized
places of public resort. But, in spite
of this enormous consumption of milk,
the supply is of the most wretched, in
fact. It is indescribably bad.
Nothing wounda a feeuns mind more than
mite cnircatlT bettered, aa, aaothsr-snach.
dogs are not abused. There are strin
gent laws for their protection. To be.
used for draft purposes the dog must
come up to a certain standard of height,
length and weight. He must be properly
proportioned and tho cart and harness
must be in all respects suitable to the
dog. The load is limited. Fines and im
prisonment are imposed on those detected
maltreating the dogs.
Work for Master and Animal.
This is duo to a club of gentlemen In
Belgium who have taken up the cause of
the dog. In. a report made by this so
ciety the following language Is used: "In
certain countries, notably Belgium, Hol
land and Switzerland, draft dogs render
marked assistance to poor people, to
whom they are a real providence, second
ing with all their strength of muscle, all
their courage, their masters' efforts In
the .struggle for life, and, say what we
will, the draft dog which works for his
master is not always the most unfortu
nate of the two, but his owner, who goes
with him and aids him to pull the load,
often walks barefooted, poorly fed and
hardly clothed at all, and can make no
complaint. It is sure enough the poor
Joe Rankin's Famous Ride, for Rescue
Journey of . One .Hundred and Seventy Miles In Twenty-Four Hours.
AT," and the man from Wyoming
blew a heavy cloud of smoke Into
the air and watched it disappear,
"you fellows talk about your horseback
riding and the distances that you cover,
Just as if you were doing something that
was worth mentioning."
There was another long pause, during
which the man from Wyoming puffed
vigorously at his cigar, as if by its very
difference It reminded him of the old
"alkali fillers" that he used to smoke
down around Carbon and Rawlins. Some
of the youngsters had been telling about
their horseback rides, all unwitting that
they were stirring in the breast of the
TTnn from Wyoming some reminiscences
of rides that were rides. But they held
their peace when he spoke, for they knew
that his grouch would wear off and he'd
have something to tell them.
"You never knew Joe.Rankln, 1 reckon."
the rrtftn from Wyoming resumed when
he had rounded himself up and snubbed
himself chuck up to the fact that the boys
were not to blame the man from Wyo
ming occasionally forgets how old he Is
and that the "kids" can't be expected to
remember" what took place before they
were bid enough to know there was any
He Could Ride Some.
"Well, Joe Rankin could sure ride
some. He wasn't much for fancy, but he
was always thero with the goods when
they were needed. Those were the days
when they used to scrape up alkali dust
for baking powder and all the water .there
was In Carbon was brought there in little
tank cars that looked like the wind had
blown the sides out of a boxcar and let
the roof down on the floor. And that
water was the cause of but that has
nothing to do with' Joe Rankin.
"Joe Rankin lived In Rawlins then. He
had been plugging around on the frontier
ever since they shoved the line west from
the Missouri, and he knew more'n a lot of
the expert Indian fighters that they had
sent out to suppress the TJtea. These Utes
had been trying to stir up trouble for ten
years, and ty time they did it for sure.
The Indians were of the Saguache coun
try, and they turned loose in 1S73 and
killed a lot of settlqrs near their reserva
tion in Utah.
"Major Thornburg, with some of his
command, was sent to suppress the Utes,
and Rankin joined him as guide when he
reached Rawlins. Joe had been United
States Marshal and Sheriff and almost
everything .else around there, and he
knew the whole country.
Whites Almost Annihilated.
"Joe slipped up on his estimate of the
strength of the Indians, and at Milk
River, la Utah, the Utes closed in on
Thornburg's troops, and when the smoke
cleared up Major Thornburg and 13 of his
men were dead and every horse In the
command was- either killed or wounded.
"But Rankin made good, all right.
That night he volunteered to get through
tho Indians and take word to the railroad,
1T0 miles away. He took one of the
wounded horses and got through the In
dians on the far side of the camp. He
had to ride a long way around, and it
was morning before he struck the back
trail, seven miles from where the Utes
had the soldiers penned in. -
"His wounded horse soon gave out, and
he tried another that be got from a little
cattle camp, and this one, too, broke
down before he'd ridden far. He struck
out afoot and came to one of the supply
camps that Thornburg had left on the
trail, and the Captain there gave him a
new horse. This Captain tried to break
through to rescue the Major, but he lost
all his horses and some of his men.
"With the horse from tho supply camp
Rankin made the rest of the ride to Raw-
1 llntt whr&.was the ..nearest telegraph In
fellow has not the sole of the foot thick
enough nor callous enough, and his stom
ach Is often less full than that of his
dog: certainly we "can hope that the dogs
shall not go overloaded or overdriven nor
badly treated. But why should not these
animals toll? The struggle for life Is
tho same for all. The fortune of each
permits' him to buy. to aid him in gaining
a livelihood a horse, a pony or a dog. In
Belgium a dog may fall into the hands of
a cruel master; so may a horse."
Certainly this plea that the poor be
allowed to use the dog in this way Is
pathetic. The dogs' view of . the situa
tion is not yet translated into our lan
guage. Be it said he seems to take to
his work, although glad to lie down
in the street and rear, from time to
time. Ho is said to come with alacrity
in the morning to be harnessed for his
day's work. Be It further said in ref
erence to the condition of those who
use the dog. that women are sometimes
seen hitched to coal carts, with a strap
passed across their foreheads to aid
the hands in hauling the cart along
the streets, as they go from door to
door in the poorer sections of the city
and peddle coal to gain a living.
The 150,000 dogs in Belgium are es
timated to earn each a franc a day. It is
a large sum of money; 150,0001 a day,
that is nearly $30,000, and taking round
numbers 300 days the year, the total is
close to $1,000,000.
Draft dog fairs are held here, simi
lar to horse fairs, where exhibits of
the best strains are shown and prizes
offered for the best specimens. Regu
lar market days are atso held, when
those who have a dog to sell meet the
buyers and make a bargain.
The Horses of Belgium.
The other extreme pole of the social
scale is seen in the horses. There -are
a large number of rich people in Brus
sels. . Rockfellers. Goulds and Hunt
ingdons do not exist here. But there
are people of great wealth. At a little
seaside resort near Brussels. Branden
burgh. last August, one or the "smart
set" here tried to get accommodations.
Only one room was found In the place
for rent. It was a little room over a
butcher's shop. The rent was 1000
francs for a month ($200), and the rent
These wealthy people pride them
selves on their fine horses and fine
turnouts. Sunday afternoons at the
Bois de la Cambre, a, great park here,
a part of a primeval forest and very
beautiful, or at the races at Ixjng
champs, are seen all sorts of things on
wheels pulled by magnificent horses.
These are Ir. hundreds, and make a gay
scene in the evening, as they all come
tearing down one of the big- boule
vards In a string: miles long.
Scenes In the Park.
Another most Inspiring- scene here is
the park in the afternoon nearly every
day In the week. rot the Bois, or
great forest, which Is on the outskirts
of the city, but the park proper as
they call things here. In the very midst
of the city. A fine band appears there
every day about 3 P. M., and plays un
til about 5. The people come in hun
dreds to stroll thero for half an hour,
Bonnes trundling baby carriages,
young people making love while the
band plays, old couples still courting
up in tho '60s and '70s, and old fellows
all alone. But the most interesting
features of these afternoons- is the
schools. The children come in long
lines, flanked by one or two teachers
strument. 170 miles from the men he had
left. Ho had crossed three mountain
ranges, had led his 'Horses for miles whero
the trails were so rough that ho couldn't
rido In the dark or else when his horses
were too tired to carry him. That s what
he had done, and ha had dona it In 21
hours. Now, that's riding some."
Somebody wanted to know what became
of Thornburg's command, and tho man
from Wyoming waked up again. "What
became of them? What do you suppo.se?
They were saved, of course. Joe Rankin
just telegraphed from Rawlins, and be
fore daylight next morning Colonel Mer
rltt was moving with six companies to
entrain from Fort Russell- at Cheyenne.
Fort Steele, which la some east of Raw
lins, was reached before midnight. Joe
Rankin had rested himself and his horse,
and wa3 there to meet Colonel Merritt.
The soldiers rested a bit and then struck
out for Milk River across the country,
with Rankin guiding and setting the pace.
Desperate Ride of Troops.
"And they pounded over thoso 170 miles
at. a pace that would maker you young
sters drop out early in the game. The
troops carried light forage, with rations
for themselves, and their rests. were few
and short. The second night out found
them about 70 miles from the men they
were trying to reach. Horses and men
had been placed carefully, and when they
started on this last night ride over the
roughest kind of country they were ready
for the task.
"All night they rode, with only breath
ing spells for the horses, and at day
break Rankin signaled for a halt. He
pointed out the location of the camp be
yond a hill. Colonel Merritt ordered the
bugler to sound 'officers' call,' and the
command waited for an answer from the
besieged. None came and they all thought
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in charge. The very small ones are
mixed as tft sex, but at the age of S
or 9 they are segregated. The teach
ers select a portion of the park re
served for tho U3e of the schools, and
the big- Lilliputian army in corps, brig
ades and regiments, is turned loose to
play tops marbles, tag, to dance, turn
heels over head on the grass, and'hava
a right good time for about an hoUr;
then, like tho other famous army that
marched up the hill, this army marches
bac& in good order to the schools to
be sent home to the crowded, narrow
alleys of the old city. For these are
public schools and the children of the
poor. They are all well shod, decently
clad, and look happy as can be.
A Happy People.
Happy yes. This Is a light-hearted
people. Down the narrow alleys one may
encounter a band of women and girls,
some old, some mere children, golnff along
hand In hand, singing some tune, or per
haps something like a college cry In
America. They arc working women, em
ployed in some factory In one of these old
alleys, and they have been to a cheap cafo
where they have dispensed 10 to 20 cen
times (2 to 4 cents American), each for
a roll and a cup of coffee, and they are
going back- again to their toIL Their
day's work is perhaps 12 hours long.
their wages are 10 cents to 40 cents, their
whole wardrobe Is perhaps on their backs
no bonnets, and did not cost a big "dol
lar or our daddies, whose value Is guar
anteed by our great Uncle Samuel, that
Grandest Old Man of all grand old men.
But these women are happy, joyously
happy. Tho children are Ilka their par
ents. History Was Made Here.
Tho country near Brussels Is full of in
terest. Go back a thousand years, and
one la Just half way In tho history of
Belgium. It is full of historic and artistic
Interest. It is only 25 miles to Waterloo,
only 13 to Tervueren, where Carlotta
spent her days of madness after that
terrible experience in Mexico; only six
miles to Laeken, where the King's coun
try palace Is. Between here and Waterloo
lies Louvaln, where there are structures
reaching back beyond the Middle Ages to
the Roman times. Near there is Cast re,
that is, Castra, a camp of the Romans,
and here they still dig up relics of the
Roman occupation. They dig up relics at
"Waterloo, too, and I suppose they make
others to order for tourist consumption.
Al Ghent, to the west. Charles V of Spain
first saw the light. Near there Is Auden
arde, 'where old Jack Churchill, that rough
old butcher, who founded the present fam
ily of Marlborough, of which our own.
Consuelo "Vanderbilt Is so conspicuous an
ornament, defeated the French In one of
the four great battles which won for him
Memories crowd on the mind here. One
hears the echoes of that "Revelry by
night, when Belgium's capital was
gathered there, her beauty and her chiv
alry," according to Byron's vision of
"Waterloo. And one sees Julius Caesar
in his tent at Castre, as Anthony saw
him when he held up the bloody cloak
and said: "I remember the first time
ever Caesar put It on. It was in his tent.
That day ho overcame the Nervli." For
it was right hera near Louvaln that the
old Roman won that victory over the
great Teutonic army.
Oh, yes, and Rubens was of Antwerp.
The galleries here aro full of his pictures,
so they are of Rembrandt's and of "Van
Dyck8, and of Tenler's, and of Wouer
mann's, not to mention lesser lights of
other epochs. G. "W. BURTON.
their rlda had been too slow, but tha
bugle call was repeated, and, sure enough,
the reply came across the hill, showing
that the men were still there, and tha
ride, after all, hadn't been too slow.
Testimony of a Survivor.
"Ono of tho men in the Thornburg
company told me afterward a long tima
afterward, it was, too that he'd heard a
lot of flno music in hi3 life, but no band
or organ or anything else that plays ever
made such good music as that bugle did
when It sent tho 'ofllcers call' over tha
hill to say that Joe Rankin had got back
and was there for business.
"And I reckon he was right. We didn't
have so awful much water in Wyoming
those days, and the alkali and tho wind
sometimes made things kind of nasty, but
we got so we could get along first rta
without water, and we got so we didn't
mind the. alkali. And we sure had soma
fine men, and they could ride."
Wholesale Pearl Fishing.
X great pearl fishery will take
place at Marichchikkaddi, in the Island
of Ceylon, on or about February 20.
1905. The banks to be fl3hed aro tho
Southwest Chevai Paar. which is esti
mated to contain 3,500,000 oysters, suf
ficient to employ 200 boats for two
days; tho Mid-East Chevai Paar, esti
mated to contain 13,750,000 oysters, suf
ficient to employ 200 boats for seven,
days; the North and South Moderagam,
with 25,700,000 oysters, sufllcient to em
ploy 200 boats for 13 days; the Squth
Chevai Paar, estimated to contain 40,
220,000 oysters, sufficient to employ 200
boats for 20 days, each boat being' fully
manned with divers.
THE LUXURY OF :
MODERN LIVING t
FINDS FULLEST :
EXPRESSION IN :
THE USE OF :
ELECTRIC HEAT- :
ING DEVICES, t
AND ESPECIALLY t