1 QUAINT EFFECTS IN THE MID-WINTER GOWNS j ""- jyaJB?"
ft
IX. Itmii ataW lar ta aaatet W- i
IfCl. MM aalrm. Iktr at r
Jtlx-r af nW iMi
& Bar Maal 4 mm aMai
braaf mt n rtia aac
dMe Irw ta tiMir
lead
vri ad ltmma.it. nrntt i wfc M taa4
atone Vary aaitat ad
xv tk rf a)u. ta -fttacw natwat
aaa Jor tfc- itotrfr wiiiy tMwri eauMi
th it WttMai MMtbrvi
Wen raw rMMr t M-aat ad ttu
mm rtal ai atrn MirlniH rral
M-tV 9r a -MU I rif ar wr
Dorothy
5KUTH JtVlort lt 1mm. 15. M
ily Xma Smwmmr. If a
hmB 1mo flMtartMC mmmmr
hrmA Mir i i mtmt tat Wtftrr. mm mm
myrtiw It U m OapM te mm
lo in MwMt. gar mmu ta
4tti ii ajiiiiw all mmm i
H,
Mary. TV SmUm
re mtigmt 1 mm faaaafea; -
rttMmr
ramas ta Uatawu mm rim. fa taiMritai af
rfctiKwHX wMI aa arana Mi tfcr farta a aflka I Till I
aac ivwwiT fi.ilaliaa. VftaV tar naa , att M iW
d Strl w inn amiii aw aamaria: m laapir
j a kM j
iiwii Mar
M(M Ml fMa
wwdi M carrr bar aa
rvaaat ta raa r iiill
mmmmmm4 ta faary -
iiptfai raai a om aaraal Maaa .
In fact. It w mm aaaaaraMW vflatofc
mi 4c tfet (artin trmm atwrm I feaar
jturt wanaua aataMr mm
Waaa I niM aaataar taiHail av
laaaMaa. I Satttr iawa T MM
mf te tac Mr aaaOMa. mg mmtmtmf
S wXaBfwaatoatf M Vaa Oatf rare,
afea "1 Aim at m m l nli. Jnawrr
iMaaata af aaavaaaft auMt
ggmmmmm ailaac aaa Caac mm
ar if urtax war
jar Jtraaaa, A variaot if the
I afauiii n
1a aMfc. warm In
lld. Plata
M BNfci barter. Wat the
Mftwc Jtlvea wtace ta i;
waaao. K 14ch hat
yMMk. I ageta mi in-atai iu. teat to a atare
Kwr ,' wwar emwttmert fcs a gat la
ter. mm mmm m a Dm faddist
' aaaa a w4i m Ump vtaadard coor-taja-
F ta-awas aad at drams
I a lain aUmr ebarmrfr. it ta
aatiwra Mi f4taatr WH for cmaMaatleR
, wttB rarlati till iilgirr. Iar ana Mack
-tvi It m riliai i tMat ta awrrd
a bWMMT waavwa. sucm as
www win aa ta mm f taw extrm.
lMaiMir Imt rmmi am. waUratng lc
ar tk Ubt aiirtg rtfrt worn by
air ntimu - junaawmiiir Quirtrical
aatu rtw a-W V- ma4 bat HuV.
TV f-rt -arir ta Un saaaa ta Ih
truiani frtaw a a trtaiilas baa failed.
gf "Our Town" on
lalttjr at taaabaM am Jaaaary the 17th
t 1 - a'daek. Storaraiy ymmre.
-TXMW3THV OOODK--
Maratto. Hmim. Matca. tmorMf
aftrraaaa iaaa tnmm& lata Awta
mrmm&yum. fHJasIr anikyd l laacbeon
fraokK. aiarjurw ware vmU roa4etoUi.
faaaVy tflanaai mitt bi and cnatne
tafai. I war a ymaHar ahaae af Mae
lIiiK Dak ttw wntte fax set that mde
wi mm far CariftaMM.
Oa aaionai; Mm. Vaa Cau's big faare
JmUL a mmd a ylaiatat sarartre. far we
vrt atwinid ta aa add Hgyatlaa dan.
wanv wii warn tm a-altiag M take aat
mmtf avr wraac Mat farx. bat aar bats!
Of win, at baaM alway rcoave oar
mt at a laatawa. bat bere. with tfee
naM namhamg laaaly ta Ms date, avery
rfttax l aaa aaW4di aad farnwll)-. aad
ac Umr MMjartty af laarwnom and break
full wr m laid k aly our heavy
wntf a at a rtrftfaa. At Mrs. Drexel.
Smmtaf mmtUrt WeakteC the atber neoa
yum m aat eia tat aawa ta table. but
mmm4 mm im the Mmtmc-romm. to me Mrved
br b Men la atedf and after that
rhti4 a fw raoBMit and nHnoed
list "f at .i afttr'O' Tht
i.r rXfj.it wax la txvex of a young girl
THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, SAOTAEY 29, 1905.
save as it appears on the cads of scarfs
and aasfee. but heavy braids woven into
Jar waaiatmls and chenille appHques of
sli arta. together trith bunion trimming,
are aeea very generally.
An imported gown which shows many
of the features above mentioned is a
combination of prune mescaline and vel
vet with heavy braid trimming In self
toae. The skirt is built in panels, set
off br tiny hand-run tucks, each panel
b4nu edged with a fine fold of the velvet
and rmall velx'et buttons. The little vel
vet bolero has a V-shaped front crossing
at the waist line and defined by an ap
pMque of band embroidery in this same
toae, and the little garment is faced all
the way around with a tiny ruffle of silk
lace. The sleeve la overlaid with a caie
Mke emplecement. trimmed heavily with
pMrred cords to simulate braid. The
blouse in of white Bilk net. trimmed with
maay ruffles of Chantilly lace, and the
V-shaped point in the front is strapped
with shirred cordlngs of the satin. "With
tMs costume is worn a modltlcation of
the old-fashioned poke bonnot done in
white mousFellne and edged with silk
Manners & She
wha Iulh made a hit with a new book, and
is being lionized quite a bit by the smart
poaale.
Bat. to return to our luncheon. Mrs.
Van Cett and May both rose as we en
tered the drawing-room, and the latters
very colf-satlsfled. complacent look when
ihe effered us her hand, should have
araased our suspicions. Only buds, the
smartest in Aunt Eleanor's set, by the
way (forgive my modesty) were present,
fo aur innnocence may be forgiven.
" There Is one satisfying feature con
nected with entertaining in Kew York.
Guests, as a rule, are punctilious about
MTtviag or the minute. Unless a wheel
fWe off their carriage or they are ar
roMcd far raetor-scorching. they all reach
the borne of the hostess within ten min
utes of the hour named on the invitation,
sa there its no tiresome wait. Therefore,
at 1:30 exartly. when the last of the 14
buds cre&aed the threshold of the drawing-room,
the ail-wise butler appeared be
tween the curtains and said quietly:
"Luncheon 1 served."
Mr. Van Cott led the way to the dln-'.ng-room.
and as there was no guest of
.oner. rre took her place at what might
be termed the head of the round table.
lace to match that used on the bodice,
and here Is tucked a white silk rose.
White plumes and ties of mousscllne
caught with roses complete the pic
turesque chapeau.
Pleats are laid upon pleats to secure
picturesque effects and an immense sweep
at the foot of the gown. A Parisian
frock of moss-gray mousscllne and vel
vet is pleated in very thick and flat at
the waist line beneath a pointed bodice,
and falls in the dlrectoire folds to the
feet, lying on the ground several inches
all the way around. With this Is worn
an odd little Jacket which hangs in
similar pleats from the yoke piece hidden
by the revers, heavily braided with sli
ver bullion.
Of all the street garments, nothing can
compare for plcturesqueness with the vel
vet redlngote. which Is worn with cloth,
silk and velvet skirts. It fits tightly to
the figure at the back and sides, a full
basque being seamed on Just where the
waist terminates. Instead of over the
hips, while the sleeves are nearly always
Attends a Betrothal Luncheon and Tells All About the Function &
with May directly opposite, while wo
found our places between the two, on
cither side, by means of dainty plate
cards, hand-painted, with tiny love knots
and wreaths of roses. -
. By the way, I want to explain a clever
trick for altering the size of your round
table. The highly polished or Inlaid top Is
of regulation size and then you have made
to order several larger tops, from plain,
hard wood, around which may be seated
varying numbers cf guests. This is, of
course, hidden by the silence cloth and
gleaming damask. If a bore table with
open-work doylies Is desired, then the
smaller polished top must be used.
Mrs. Van Cotfs top cloth was of very
fine, plain linen with a deep border and
broad circular centerpiece of filet lace.
The only floral decoration was a slender
cut-glass Vase holding perfectly formed
pink rosebuds, not more than a dozen
blossoms. I imagine. There Is a marked
revival of simple, airy effects In table
decorations, and great ribbon bows, cor
rage bouquets or luncheon souvenirs are
considered bad form. The only touch
of color on Mrs. Van Coifs table were
the roses, candle shade? and bon bons,
all in delicate pink, while the paper
In the leg-o'-mutton form, with big,
turned-back gauntlet cuffs, and, perhaps,
a tight silk undercuff elaborately em
broidered. The coat generally opens over
one of the new low waistcoats, on which,
as often as not, are embroidered the most
elaborate sprays of flowers In shaded
silks or wools, or conventional designs
of all descriptions, while a binding of
old gold or silver braid or lace makes a
very effective finish. They are reminis
centthese little embroidered vests of
the days when men and women alike
wore the richest of lace Jabots out of
the priceless stores hidden away In old
mahogany bureaus, and the present de
mand for lace Is so great that It is
nearly as Important an Item today as it
was then.
Fur bands and rare lace are also used
for trimming these redlngotes. Draped
effects are much seen In evening coats
and look well on the woman who has
height and a good carriage. Sometimes
these long cape-like garments reach al
most to the feet and are draped pic
turesquely over the left shoulder. Again
the cape Is cut shorter and laid In close
cases in which the sweetbreads were
served, were precisely the same color.
The service was admirably handled by
the butler and a footman in house livery,
and two maids could have done It just
as well, though 16 of us were at table
The first course was the Inevitable grape
fruit with maraschino flavoring and cher
ries. The bouillon was served In low,
broad cups with double handles, and I am
planning to bring home a set of these for
our china closet They offer the daintiest
method of serving soup or broth, and
small, deep silver spoons come to use
with them.
The fish course I thought far too rich
for girls going the gastronomic pace we
arc. It was some sort of deviled shell
fishcrab, I think but very tasty when
served with thin, buttered slices of brown
bread. After this came a chicken patty,
and then sweetbreads in cases with
French peas. The process of digestion
was then halted with a sherbet colored
a delicate pink and served In high, slen
der glasses, which are just now enjoying
quite a vogue. After this, squabs with
heart of romaine salad and French dress
ing. Exquisitely delicate cakes were
served with the Ice cream, which came
fine pleats attached to a very short yoke,
which is hidden by ornate embroideries
or a bit of fur.
Cloth Is used for the more severe of
these capes and some stunning studies
are shown In the various shades of to
bacco brown. For opera wear these
garments are evolved from chlffon-vel-vet,
which pleats with remarkable soft
ness. A charming- example shows rose
pink velvet with a chenille collar and a
band of exquisite Irish crochet lace In
deep points headed by tiny ruchings of
the velvet. There Is a shallow yoke
which insures a smooth fit over the shoul
ders, and to this a sleeve cape Is applied
In deep shlrrings, so cleverly that the
presence of the sleeve Is not noticed un
til the arm Is raised.
For wear with the exquisite theater
gowns of net and mousseline come the
quaintest of poke bonnets adapted in
shape, of course, to the requirements of
he 20th-century belle, with Just enough
of the old-time flavor to make them
fascinating. Such a bonnet developed
in individual figures, miniature Cupids In
pale strawberry cream, carrying gilded
bows and arrows. This course prepared
us for the announcement which came
with the coffee, when Mrs. Van Cott said
very quietly, "It gives me great pleasure
to feel that you, who have shared with
my daughter the pleasures of her first
season in society, should be. also, tho
first to hear of her engagement to Mr.
John Douglas Cartwright. Their mar
riage will occur at Easter."
There was one of those trying, breath
less instants of utter amazement, and
ben we came out of the trance (for be
it known that May is one of the young
est debutantes) and wished her much joy.
As young Cartwright is enormously rich,
we thought Mrs. Van Cott should come
in for sincere congratulations, which we
offered in an eminently guarded fashion.
The Van Cott have more standing than
money, but I believe May Is really In
love with her gilded fiance. Anyhow, it
was a really jolly half-hour we spent In
the drawing-room, and May, with all her
blase ways, warmed up to us as she
never has before during the season.
And now I presume there will be a
succession of dinners and teas In honor
from shirred and plisse chiffon has st
crown of the fur back variety, with a
brim describing a graceful scoop. It sets
close to the head In the back and flares)
In the front to show frills of silk lace
and pole blush roses tucked against the
hair. The top of the hat is trimmed
with butterfly bows of pale pink liberty
satin ribbon, which Is drawn down In thar
tack and tied under the chin In bows.
With these poke bonrets are shown
marvelous neck pieces en suite, end for
the bonnet described above the suitable
boa should be made of the pink liberty
ribbon and mousseline combined witn the
rosae. As a rule the rpsas am made of
the ribbon, as the American woman haa
not yet taken the artificial flower to her
hoarr, save in millinery. The English im
portations, however, show boas, stoles
and muffs literally encrusted with the fa
miliar silk, muslin or chiffon flowers.
Thi del'cate colorings ore employed quite
generally when the hat, stole and muff
are en suite, and if the gown Is of vel
vet this fabric is introduced into the
muff at least.
KATHERINE AXDERSON.
of the pair until Lent breaks in upon us.
j Aunt Eleanor has decided to open tho
1 country place for Lent, rather than go
; South, for one can hardly escape the
She has written Dickey Fcrrall to spend
a fortnight with us at Idlecrest, and I
hope business will make it possible for
him to come. I may be getting a bit
homesick at any rate, I'll be glad to see
some one from home. With love.
DOROTHY".
Cleaning Carpets.
The following is a good receipt for a
compound which will clean carpetsr Make
a suds with a good white soap and hot
water, and add fuller's earth to this
until it Is the consistency of thin cream.
Have plenty of clean drying cloths, a
small scrubbing brush, a- large sponge
and a pall of fresh water. Put some of
the cleaning mixture In a bowl and dip
the brush in It. Brush a small piece
of the carpet with this, then wash with
the sponge and cold water. Dry as much
as possible with the sponge and finally
rub with the dry cloths. Continue this
until certain all the carpet is cleaned
and then let dry-