ss
1 UWlT JZMXJZff XJZUJtttfcJJf&AESCl -fc SS$& ' fe 7LKTr I mounted with the head toward the front,
L rAy&m' jr&&, - ' f I r, Jjl I and with the tails and little paws drop-
-Pi T r J ties of white chiffon fiiushed off this sim-
WISH -women on ?oswiouuay saies
bent, take heed to this tip from
Paris by London! "The fur hat is
no, longer the trade-mark of the faddist
in lashlons. It na been universally ac
cepted ihis season, and so becoming: has
it proven to the face feminine that it un-
edly will enjoy a. more pronounced I
"next Winter."
Chis means that bargains in small pieces
for hands should bo cleaned with en-
l-'fttnuAaem. A muff offered at a bis reduc
tion because it is a trifle shop-worn or
perhaps out of date in shape, will form
the foundation of a superb evening hat.
A remnant, of fur trimming:, seal, beaver,
T-lnV, cWpfffla- or ermine will be just
what Is required to form the brim of a hat
to be worn with a smart tailored suit.
Time was that the fur hat was built on
square and forbidding: lines, and only
the statuesque -woman of Imperial carri
age and perfect features ventured to wear
it. Now the fur is laid over such coquet
tish shapes, and combined so cleverly with
lace and the most diaphanous of fabrics
that it enhances all a woman's best points
and softens her harsher lines.
Some of the most effective of evening
lafts are tiroso which show a combination
of fur and feather. A perfect blonde re
cently seen at a fashionable playhouse
wore a turban, of chinchilla topped by
Receipts GleanedFrom Old Cookbooks
tt-y-HE:
RE is no denying," said a clev
New Xork woman recently re
turned from a pilgrimage among up
state relatives, "that we city house
wives are losing" our grip on good old
fashioned cooking. Never until I went
on this tour of family visits did I real
ice how much the delicatessen shop,
!the bakery and the restaurant have
VSone to draw us away from the sort of
fcookinfir our mothers used to do. Inci
dentally, as I went from family to fam
ily, I gathered up recipes of their fa
vorite dishes, and there will be a
change In our daily menu for awhile,
hi least."
Here are some- of the leaves from
2ier notebook:
Aunt Sally's "White Mountain Cuke.
'."Whites of eight eggs stiffly beaten, 1
pound nuigjir, 1 pound flour, 1 cup
iezfiaz milk, "-5 pound butter (scant),
leaspoonxui soaa, z teaspoonxuis cream
of tartar. Cream the butter and sugar
toad add slowly the milk with the soda
dissolved in tepid water. Sift the cream
of tartar with the flour and add the
flour alternately with the whites of
the eggs. Flavor with vanilla, bake in
ithick, square layers, and ice with pul
verized sugar beaten with, the white of
an egg and a drop or two of ice cold
water. The more this cake is beaten
The finer will be its grain, and confec
tioner's sugar may be substituted for
granulated sugar If desired.
Aunt Mary's Sand Tarts. 1 pound of
vgranuatcd sugar, 1 pound flour,
pound butter, 1 nutmeg grated into the
idough, yolks of 2 eggs, white of 1 egg,
pound almonds. Blanch almonds and
.slice very thin. Roll the dough thin
and cut into squares-or diamonds with
a steel cutter. Lay them in a greased
pan. "Wash them over with white of
gT, sprinkle lightly with cinnamon
and sugar, and then lay on the top the
almond halves, three to each tart.
Hickory nuts may be substituted for
the almonds. Bake quickly. These
llttlo cakes will be greatly improved
if the dough is mixed and then allowed
to stand over night.
Hetty's Fruit Cake. Two pounds of
raisins, 2 pounds currants, 4 pound
citron. 2 pounds sugar, 2 pounds flour.
1 pound butter, 1 dozen eggs, pint
milk, 1 tumbler thick preserved cher
ries, 1 pound figs, 1 tumbler thick pre
served strawberries, 1 pound dates,
cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg to taste.
Out the butter Into half a dozen pieces
and drop It into a bowl of warm water
moment. Now pour off the
water and beat the butter until it is
light and white. Add the sugar grad
ually and beat for fully 10 minutes.
Now add the eggs, yolks and whites
beaten together, and the flour. "When
smooth add the spices. Mix the fruit
and dust with half a cup of flour, chop
ping the figs and dates fine. Add the
fruit to the dough and bake in a fruit
cako pan lined with greased paper.
Bake two hours in a moderate oven,
and increase the heat during another
hour.
Sylvia's Sponge Cake. Eight eggs,
their weight in granulated sugar, half
their weight in flour, and the juice and
rind of 1 lemon. Beat tho eggs sep
wetely. Add sugar to the yolks and
beat hard to secure the fine grain. Then
ndd tho juice and rind of the lemon.
d last the flour alternately with the
aton whites'. Bake In a moderate
n 40 minutes.
s. Flemings Jumbles. One cup of
br, 2 cups granulated sugar, "i tea
rful soda. 2 egg.'. Juice lemon.
an apple-green feather. The feather coy- i
ered the crown of the hat and drooped
over the hair in the back.
Marabout is also much seen in combina
tion with chinchilla. An example espe
cially becoming to the girl "who has adopt
ed the Mary Stuart coiffure, shows a
toque with a slight dip in the center of'
the front, built entirely of chinchilla.
Around the crown are deftly-disposed
folds of -white tulle and chiffon, -which are
brought over the left side of the brim
through a buckle of cut steel. A little fur
ther to the front rises a fluffy aigrette of
white marabout tipped with palest gray,
and the stole to be worn with this bat
was built of lace and tulle, with orna
ments of chinchilla.
Unquestionably the most dressy fur for
evening wear is ermine, and even a little
of this will look smart. It is shown in
combination -with the most extravagant
of .real laces, flowers, ostrich feathers and
marabout. It is seen at its best in the
little tri corned which are so picturesque,
so Frenchy and so softening in their ef
fect. A continental turban, one of the forms
in which the tricorne appears, shows a
round and somewhat small crown of the
fur with the upstanding brim pincked at
a most becoming angle. The dead white
of the brim Is relieved by the familiar
black and canary colored markings, while
in the dent on the left side is tucked a
rind 1 lemon. Dissolve the soda in a
teaspoonful of hot water and mix
above ingredients together well. Add
a pinch of salt and flour enough to roll
out welL Roll the dough out thin, cut
round with hole in the center, and
bake in a quick oven.
Ginger Snaps. Heat to boiling one
cup of shortening (which may be half
butter and half clarified drippings, or
all butter if preferred), one cup mo
lasses, two cups brown sugar, one
tablespoonful ginger, one tablespoonful
cinnamon, one scant tablespoonful
soda. Take from the stove. Beat well.
Add 2 eggs and flour enough to make
a stiff dough. It will take about 6 cups
of flour to make the dough roll welL
Stand all night, and the following
morning roll thin, cut with round cut
ter and bake in quick oven.
Mrs. Seller's Calf's Head Terrapin.
Boll calf's head as for soup until bones
fall apart. Remove meat from bones
and set aside until perfectly cold.
Season with pepper and salt. Add two
blades of mace. Chop 4 hard-boiled
eggs and add them to a cup of the
broth in which head has been boiled.
together with one cup of cream, a scant
Vx. pound of butter and 2 tablespoonfuls
of browned flour. Let them all simmer
thoroughly. All teacupful of sherry,
and serve. Do not boil after adding
sherry.
Mrs. McCormick's Chicken Terrapin.
Cut a cold chicken into neat pices.
Put Into a pan with pint of cream
and pound of butter rubbed into 1
tablespoonful of flour. Add pepper and
salt to taste Chop 3 hard-boiled eggs
and add with 1 wineglassful of sherry
to the chicken mixture.
Cousin Kate's Croquettes. Twelve
ounces meat, 2 ounces butter, 2 table
spoonfuls flour, 1 cup cream. Mince
or grind meat fine. Rub butter and
New Receptacles
THIS Is the season of the year when
the average home-maker finds her
mantels, secretaries, chiffoniers and ta
bles overflowing with photographs, and
she yearns for the old-fashioned album
which some two or three years ago she
turned over to mollis and mice In attic
recesses.
Perhaps, in a suddon spasm of tidiness,
she dicldes to unearth the family photo
graph album and refill Its empty spaces,
or she may even think she will find some
thing new in albums and 60 she will
the moet hideous combinations in cellu
loid, plush or burnt wood, all built over
a music box which grinds out "Teasing"
or "Goodby, Little Girl, Goodby," as one
turns tho pages In search of familiar
faces.
But the good old-fashioned album,
bound in a desirable quality of leather,
is not to be found in department store
nor book shop. In its place has come
the box. or rather many boxes, supple-
j mented by pliable leather receptacles rc
I sembllng glove and handkerchief cases,
! and for unmounted photographs, the
j camera book.
Boxes for use In the drawingroom are
covered with exquisite silk tapestries. A
mauve tapestry, showing stripes of tiny
plnk roses, forms the cover for one. of
these boxefc. The edges arc bound with
mauve braid and bullion, and a large
square piece of gloss In the center of the
lid reveals ho contents of the receptacle.
.THE .SUXDAX. OBEGOXIAN, POETLAOT, JAStfAKT 22, 1906.
OVER
knot of roses in the faded pink so popular
for evening wear. The marabout feather;
which is the only other ornament on the
hat, I3 white tipped with the -pink of the
roses.
Another tricorne whose brim came to a
sharp point in the front, and which was
rolled high on the side, showed marvelous
blue roses creeping out between the brim
and the crown, reaching to the point in
the front A toque built ou modified tor
flour together and put in saucepan
over fire with the cream. Stir these
together until thick. Then add the
meat. As soon as mixed take off the
fire and do not cook. Season with salt,
pepper and nutmeg. Set In the refrig
erator to chill. Form Into pyramids,
dip in beaten egg and cracker crumbs
and fry In boiling hot lard.
Grandma's Chicken Soup. Skim well
3 pints of water in which a chicken
has been boiled. Boil hard 4 eggs, mash
the yolks with 1 cupful of bread
crumbs which have been moistened
with a little milk. Into this stir 1 pint
of heated cream. Add this mixture to
the chicken water and boll five mln
utes. Season to taste. The whites of
the eggs, chopped fine, may be added.
Mrs. McHugh's Escalloped Oysters.-
Draln the liquor from the oysters into
a dish. Look over the oysters to re
movo all shells or grit. Cover the bot
tom of a pudding dish with bread
crumbs. Put in a layer of oysters, sea
son with salt, pepper and a generous
bit of butter. Add another layer of
crumbs, and so on until the dish is
filled, leaving crumbs on top. Dot with
butter and bake. Take the oyster
liquor and a generous piece of butter.
and keep hot on tho stove to baste the
oysters with, should they become too
brown and dry on the top. This Is con
sidered better than adding moisture
in the first place. Milk or cream can
be mixed with the liquor if desired.
Aunt Mabel's Maple Mousse. Boll 1
largo cup of maple syrup until it ropes,
Pour slowly over the well-beaten yolks
of S .eggs, beating constantly until
smooth. Put into a double boiler and
scald, not letting It boil. Remove from
the fire and let it become cold, then stir
into one pint of whipped cream. Turn
into a freezer, pack well In Ice and salt,
and let it stand for three or four hours.
for the Photographs
These boxes are big enough to hold the
large size portrait photographs, and can
be ordered in silk or tapestry to match
the decoration of the side walls. In this
same size, but heavier and more costly,
are the boxes of beaten brass and bronze.
These have figures of cupids or pastoral
scenes carved In bold -relief on the sides
and lid and stand on four low carved
legs. A carved box plated with silver
showed the reclining figure of Father Nep
tune surrounded by water nymphs.
The housekeeper with scores of family
pictures to care for will appreciate a deep
leather box two feet In length. A par
ticularly handsome box of this sort has
a figure of St. George on a fiery .steed
carved on the hinged cover and outlined
In gold. 'Wonderfully artistic carving is
also shown on boxes of weathered oak
from which a rugged Indian's head, the
spreading antler of a deer or the figure
of a bear stands out as if molded In
bronze. The thistle la another favorite
design for carved wood.
More novel is an oblong frame of olive
wood an inch In width, from which Is
suspended a bag of green leather folded
like an accordion. When not in use this
case Is not more than two inches In thick
ness. The cover Is of olive wood fas
tened with a silver clasp and lined with
green suede. A loop of" the suede holds
a magnifying glass.
Long flexible leather cases contain two
pockets for photographs and arc tied with
a silk cord and tassel. Among the bride's
gifts was a gilded leather case carved
In flower design and lined with champagne-colored
moire silk. This was tied
with a satin ord and tassel In cham-
' pagne color. The corner of one side was
ANOTHER YEAR
pedo lines had for its sole trimming a
white osprey on the left side, held in place
by frosted gauze leaves.
An extremely brillant toque for even
ing wear had a pointed brim of chinchilla
with a draped crown of tangerine velvet.
j It fitted closely to the head In the back,
where it was nmsnea witn a porieci snow
' er of pinkish yellow roses, suggesting the
j fashionable sunset rose shown by the
smart florists.
decorated with a porcelain medallion
showing a girl in an 1830 gown, with a
sprightly beau in knickerbockers stand
ing against a background of pink apple
blossoms. Stalks of pale lavender and
white fleur-de-lis rose about their feet.
DAINTY SHOES
For Lazy Honrs
THE daintiness and comfort or tho
new bedroom slippers offer great
temptations to the American girl of 1S05
to adopt her English sister's commend
able habit of removing stiff walking
boots immediately on entering the house.
and slipping Into low, easy footwear.
Delicately tinted kid slippers with fluffy
tasseled rosettes and no heels please
Mlladl Dainty who likes silk dressing
gowns and lacy frills. She of more dig
nified tastes chooses high-heeled mules
of embroidered satin or leather. -The
girl who combines beauty and wonderful
coziness knits her own slippers from An
gora wool and colored silk, or .enjoys
solid comfort In soleleas eiderdown shoes
lined with tufted satin. Sandals In straw
or satin are the bedroom footwear fa
vored bv men. while low suede or alli
gator skin slippers make Ideal lounging
boots.
Nothing is more charming for boudoir
wear than loose gowns In white, and the
soft white kid slippers with huge downy
tassels of creamy silk are a fascination
to the most exacting fancy. These pliable
kid slippers are also very fetching in the
delicate shades of blue, pink and laven
der, with large, fluffy rosettes In self
tone. Mules or sandals with high heels make
the foot look small, and are stunning for
wear with tea rowns and handsome loose
robes. A dainty pair has the stiff black
satin vamps embroidered In blue forget-
me-nots and edged with tiny ruffling of
blue chiffon. Another pair In etla wnito
satin Is embroidered in gold beads. A pair
of mules In subdued gray suede are
edged with a band of gray fox fur. and
the toes are embroidered In cut steel.
For softness and comfort there Is no
hand-made slipper which compares with
the one knitted from silk and Angora
wool. A devoted mother recently knitted
a pair for her little dark-haired daugh
ter, using lavender crochet silk alternat
ing with silky white Angora wool for the
outside of the slippers. They were lined
with lavender china silk and the rolling
collars were tied with fluffy lavender
satin bows. All the knitted slippers this
"Winter show two-Inch turn-over collars
of the same shade as the "V-shaped piece
Inset in the toes, which is usually of a
contrasting color to the body of the sllp-
I per. A cozy-looking wrapper of tufted
Japanese auk in navy Diue unea wun scar
let has a pair of slippers to match knitted
from navy blue wool with scarlet collar
and tec. and ties of scarlet ribbon.
Slippers, known as foot warmers, are
built from two pieces of eiderdown cut
the shape of a shoe, but sewed together
at the bottom without a leather sole.
The edges are bound with satin ribbon
in self-tone. These come up high on the
ankles, and are often lined with tufted
satin or silk in the same shade, the satin
showing on the turn-over collar. One pair
accompanying a -white eiderdown robe
had the extreme pointed toe embroidered
with a rose In gold, and were tied with
a gold cord and tassel.
Chinamen's shoes heavily embroidered
In silk are worn with dressing gowns
made from the mandarin's silk coats.
Black silk shos show roses embroidered
In pink and blue. A pair of turquoise
blue shoes were embroidered with sap
phire blue roses, and the edges showed
scallops of sapphire blue silk.
"Pop" Tea. -ay wn." "What's the dll
Jerencs between a public servant and anr
other TelndT "Why. the public servant trle
to hold his Job longer than the other kind.
mj son. Yonkcra Stateftnaa.
"With the black markings omitted er
mine fur Is variously combined with other
pelts, la larger shapes. A theater hat
which created something of a sensation,
as worn by a stunning brunette, had the
familiar shepherdess shape and was cov
ered on top with pure white ermine, the
under brim being faced with a white chif
fon velvet. Into which Venetian guipure
was Inserted at intervals. The sole trim
ming on top was an entire sable skin
Filet Lace
THE girl who has a distaste for fine
sewing and delicate floss embroidery
and who chooses the darning of torn linen
and famli stockings, as her share of the
household duties, will find a real friend
In the new filet lace embroidery. 'In this
lace work the designs are woven into a
fine or coarse mesh net by darning instead
of by the cross-stitch, as in Russian
scrim embroider' In fact, the vogue for
cross-stitch embroidery has rather given
way to filet lace work, which closely re
sembles filet-guipure.
The real filet lace is enjoying a de
cided popularity for Insertions and edg
ings on table covers, centerpieces and
counterpanes. At a large dinner given
this month by a well-known society wo
man, the long table was covered with a
magnificent linen cloth. Oblong Insets of
filet lace In orchid design, set at regular
Intervals, formed a square In the center
of the cover, while the same oblong In
sertions outltned the edges of the table,
and a filet lace edging finished the bor
ders of the cloth.
TINSEL PICTURES ENJOY
TINSEL pictures arc among the curious
and interesting works of art now be
ing unearthed by the thousands of search
crsfor antiquities. The woman who Is
fortunate enough to have had some of
the possessions of her ancestors handed
down from the beginning of the last cen
tury w-lli find these pictures, with others
in which the figures are formed from
hair, framed In funny old moldings built
from acorn or tiny opalescent shells.
The tinsel plctue Is really a quaint
colored or steel engraving, decorated with
glittering spots of tinsel, while the gar
ments of the personages figuring therein
are treated to Insertions of silk, and satin
together with adornments of lace and
metallic thread.
A clever young woman in England has
recently revived this art, and her work Is
even finer than that seen In the very old
pictures. She employs genuine old
prints for her backgrounds, while the
gorgeous raiments of the figures are em
broidered and inset with every conceiva
ble form of silk, brocade. lace. net. velvet.
PERFUMES
THE man who enjoys a suggestion of
his favorite perfume about his linen
and neckwear Is no longer considered a
prig, while the up-to-date girl Is as par
ticular In the choice of the fragrance,
wblch permeates her clothing as she Is
in the selection of her shirtwaist ma
terial or the cut of her frock. Each year,
however, one certain perfume has a par
ticular vogue. Tho long popularity of the
violet's sweetness gave way last year to
the heavier odor of the clover, followed
this season by a decided tendency toward
the pungent fragrance of the carnation.
This spicy odor Is obtained from the
novelty French Mes Dellces. and is car
ried also by the lighter American per
fume Du Barry.
In spite ot the oppressive sweetness of
the Oriental perfumes, of which sandal
wood is Invariably the basis, they always
enjoy a certain vogue among persons who
revel in carved teakwood and massive
draperies. Edlol, Chr'ls, a lasting Ej-vp-JJan
cologne, and Geisha Flowers, a com
They Have Proven So Becoming That Fashion Will
Revive Them Next Season.
For wear with the dressy frock of velvet
or broadcloth, a hat trimmed in sable is
most effective. This does not necessarily
Imply the possession of a sweeping fur set
in the same expensive skin, for a stole
which Is adequate for wear with the sable
hat may be built of chiffon, lace and small
sable heads and tails. Or more stately
stoles show velvet appllqued on satin with
fur ornaments and tails for a finish. Some
times a bit of gold thread is employed In
appllqulng the velvet, but this must be
done with great care, as it either makes
the garment look extremely chic or Impos
sibly home-made.
A model which fends itself particularly
to Russian sable is a hat which is a clev
er combination of the turban and the
English walking hat with Its upturned
brim. Such a chapeau, if well shaped and
built of finest fur, needs no ornament save
a sweeping plume. Many colors are shown
In the plumes combined witl. sable, but a
long, white plume is the most effective
If the hat must lend Itself to both even
lng and day wear. Such a hat, if worn
with a black velvet dress, makes a woman
look almost regal, provided, of course.
that she carries herself properly.
A sealskin turban Intended for wear with
a green broadcloth suit, has a rather low
brim which comes to a point In the front.
Ij-oiqs 01 Drown lune, exacuy maicaiag me
pelt In tone, separate the brim and crown.
Work for Home Sewers
A square tea cloth seen recently at an
aftecnoon reception was built from ten
inch medallions of filet, alternating with
the same size squares of linen. The lace
showed lordly roosters and peacocks
silhouetted In white against the linen
mesh.
Collars and cuffs, medallions and bands
of filet lace will be much in evidence as
trimming for the shirtwaist and linen
frocks of the Summer girl of 1S05. The
girl who cannot afford the real guipure
can produce almost as striking effects in
darned lace, with the aid of her book of
cross-stitch designs. Colored laces seen
so much on evening frocks this "Winter
will be a feature of the washable dresses
for warm weather, and for these the
modish girl can embroider nets In the soft
shades of blue, pink, yellow and lavender.
In making filet lace the net should be
securely fastened to a piece of paper
cambric or thin oilcloth. The mesh Is so
easily puckered and drawn out of shape
' that It must be watched carefully, or the
results will be anything but satisfactory.
The weaving Is effected by a dull pointed
needle and mercerized cotton, silks or
crewels In self-tone, or contrasting shades
cloth of metal, and even Ivory and real i
jewels, the old-fashioned costumes al- j
lowing any amount or elaboration, sev
eral of her pictures have been brought
over by American tourists.
Copies of the old masters, such as Van
Dyck and Holbein, and prints of famous
early actresses furnish many of her back
grounds, though curious fashion plates of
the 1330 period present wonderful possi
bilities in this delicate but effective art
work.
Among the oldest engravings Is one
dated 1640, which shows the Mayoress of
London in calling costume. The back
ground is loft undecorated save for a
wash of water color on the stiff "Noah's
Ark" trees. The Mayoress, however, Is
arrayed In dead rose silk over green, her
brown and gold bodice being practlcally
concealed by a lace tippet, and her head
adorned by a silken hat.
An 1830 print shows Mrs. Andrew Jack
son in hooped skirt and voluminous
sleeves. The double flounced skirt of
pink silk has a front panel of satin bro
caded In pink velvet roses, and each
flounce is edged with gold thread In leaf
RARE AND SACHETS FAIR
bination of the Oriental odors, are new
and popular offerings. Vlorene Is an Ori
ental sachet with a suggestion of violet.
In marked contrast to these heavy
scents Is the exquisite delicacy of Enigma,
a blending of the sweetness of many
flowers, as the name implies. It is an
especial favorite with men because of
Its evasive fragrance.
The American housewife has not yet
learned to appreciate the value of lav
ender leaves as a means of keeping the
household linen fresh and sweet- English
women prefer the piquant sweetness of
I lavender to any other scent, and their
i cupboards and chests are always liberally
J supplied with bags of the fine Iea-es.
tu.jr lUllJ tur 11119 lUtJ: - l UK IUS.I
cushions, six or eight Inches square, fn
Japanese crepe paper, showing Oriental
scenes. Sandalwood sticks, an Inch
square and five inches long, arc handy
and useful for laying among curtains and
draperies.
A splendid powder for use In sachets
is composed of violet and carnation in
while a bird of Paradise In white, green
and yellow Is fastened on the. left side.
More or less of a prejudice has always
existed against the long-haired fur i:i
milliner,,, barring, of course, Russian sa
ble; but this year lynx has taken a sudden
spurt In fashionable favor, especially for
women who cling to the black hat. Made
up In the torpedo turban. It can be so
handled that there is no undue effect of
heaviness or shagginess. A very pleasing
model In lynx shows a crown In moire vel
vet with small black plumes draped over
It. The brim is of the black lynfi, and a
white camelia without foliage is set at
the left side la strong relief. In fact, the
camelia Is very much In evidence as trim
ming on the fur hat It is set softly
agalnst the crown, but isinot employed In
a crumpled condition against the ban
deau. Crush roses are preferred for the
latter use.
Another simple but effective mode of
trimming a fur hat Is the Spanish rosette.
Extremely rich laces are employed In these
rosettes when combined with sable. A
striking effect was produced by a tulle
rosette fastened on a squirrel akin bat.
The rosette was built of white tulle, and
Instead of the Jeweled ornament In the
center, there was a rosette of accordion
plaited gold ribbon.
A second squirrel hat had a bullion or
nament with a draped cord attached, the
tassels of which fell over the hair. If
gold or metal of any sort is employed
on a fur hat. It must be of excellent qual
ity for In no combination does near-gilt
show to such poor advantage,
i KATHERINE ANDERSON".
may be employed for the darning. The
needle is drawn over one thread of
the mesh and under the other, as In
the simple darning process, the holes
being filled in by two or three crossings
of the thread. Another method of filling
the holes Is to have the threads pass
diagonally over the tiny square, crossing
each other in the center. This gives a
more lacy effect than the straight stitch.
An extremely pretty insertion for shoul
der seams, cuffs, belt and chest straps of
a natural linen blouse shows a star pat
tern darned Into an ecru mesh with a
darker shade of mercerized cotton. Med
allions for a dimity shirtwaist should be
made from the sheerest mesh. An easy
design Is tho shamrock darned in diago
nal stitch with a finely twisted mercerized
cotton.
One clever girl who works out her own
designs has her dressing table covered
with heavy mesh net in ecru, over red
sateen. Each end of the scarf is inset
with an oblong medallion, showing the
figures of a Dutch boy and girl In darned
lace. The pln-cushlon !: covered with a
similar medallion.
A REVIVAL
design. Over these flounces, but not cov
ering the panel, is an all -lace skirt of
fine Brussels net finished with wide lace
edging. This net also covers the pink silk
sleeves and bodice, and forms a deep
circular bertha edged with gold thread
about the square, low neck. The big pic
ture bonnet is built of Brussels lace edg
ing, trimmed with tiny green and pirik
flowers and wee satin bowa. tied under
the chin with green satin streamers. Con
sidering that these prints are usually not
over IS Inches in length, their decoration
is a work of Infinite detail and marvelous
delicacy.
A portrait of Margaret of Valois shows
a background of green brocade against
which the red-haired woman In her pale
apricot dress, stands out with cameo-like
distinctness. The elaborate old lace form
ing the chemisette which covers the neck
is closely Jeweled In pearls and gold, a
string of the oyster gems also binding the
tresses. The sleeves are latticed In green
over cloth of gold, and are thickly set
with emeralds and pearls. The effect Is
most brilliant, real gems being used in
Some cases.
equal parts. It has an especially delicate
odor. Another favorite combination is
heliotrope and violet, and the girl who
prefers the simple violet scent will find
the sweetness of the powder more last
ing If she mixes It with orris root. Com
bined sachet powders retain their frag
rance longer if mixed at home.
To give a delicate fragrance to a bod
ice, tiny little bags made of china silk
and filled with sachet should be sewed
under each arm's eye. These sache.tbags
sprve also as padding for the under-arm
peam. or for the front of a bodice. Coat
hangers covered with silk are filled with
sachet powder and have 10 or 15 wee
sachet bags dangling from long narrow
ribbons on each end.
Dainty sachets for keeping lingerie and
neckwear sweet are square cushions of
satin, filled with three thicknesses of
sheet wadding and finished around the
edge with a silk cord. These are prettiest
when decorated with children la Dutch
costume.