3o
THE SUNDAY 0REG02J-IAN, PORTIAD, JUNE 14, 1Q03.
MTNMISr-T EFFECTS BANISH ED FROM MEW N E6KWEA"R
1
THE ETERNAL FEMININE ASSERTS ITSELF "IN THIS
SUMMER'S STOCKS, COLLARS AND TIES if if LINEN
COLLARS LOW AND ORNAMENTED
- -f "V-
MEXICAN HANDWORK TURNOVER IS EFFECTIVE OVER A BLACK STOCK. IACE AND FACiOTTED COLLAR WHICH HAS A SHALLOW TO KB. STOCK OF SATIN FOLDS AND LACE. A DUCHESSB LACE COLLAR WHICH GIVES LONG SHOULDER EFFECT.
I
THE choice of neckwear Is a sure in
dication of taste and an item of
dress potent to make or mar a cos
tume. The most charming coiffure, the
most aristocratic features, and the most
delicately rose-tinted complexion may be
coarsened by the Juxtaposition of slipshod
neck arrangement- On the other hand, a
dainty stock can redeem an entire toilette
from the crime of mediocrity.
Even the -woman whose tastes incline
toward masculine cut and finish in her
garments cannot resist the attractions of
dainty neckwear. The eternal feminine
asserts Itself In spite of education or en
vironment. The business woman who Is forced by
reason of economy or the rules of prac
ticability to adopt the plainest of garb,
finds In the stock her only outlet for the
love of the beautiful. With her. loo. the
taste for high mannish linen collars seems
to have passed away with the styles of
other seasons. The only stiff linen collars
which the shops are showing are low af
fairs with a turnover. Often this Is brok
en into rounded tabs, or ornamented by a
line of hemstitching or openwork cm
broidery. The old-time stillness Is en
tirely lost. A morning walk along the
boulevards shows that even these collars
are worn with thin, fluffy wash ties of
linen and lawn. The effect Is decidedly
feminine.
Cuffs come to match these linen collars,
and they are suitable for either morning
or shopping wear. The touch of white at
wrist and throat relieves the monotony
of the one-tone linen costumes. Often
the cuffs and collar are stitched In color
to match the gown. The effect Is very
good, and carries out the idea, so much
sought after this season that every article
of a toilette has been made with the dis
tinct purpose of matching. The Tule is an
old and valuable one In Paris, where the
humblest grlsette knows how to impart
individuality to her everyday dress. One
tone costumes, with perfect matching or
skillful contrast of colors. Is her max
im. Her example is now being followed
by the women of every nation, and this
Summer brings the stock particularly un
der its sway.
White is the most fashionable color for
the Summer stock, although colors arc
also used. -But in the latter cases the
stock or collar is only Intended for use
with a, particular gown.
A wealth of handwork Is expended on
the white stocks and collars. Drawn
work, lace applique and insertion and
hand embroidery make them things of
beauty.
In all the white collar and cuff sets per
haps the simplest are bands of fine linen
hemstitched on all sides. The Inner spaco
is often entirely filled by a drawn work
pattern. Beautiful models are coming
from Mexico, and clever fingers are imi
tating them in all countries. These are
intended to be worn over plain stocks and
cuffs of the dress material. They are
kept In place by small pins of gold or
silver, which come in sets of three for the
purpose. The less conspicuous the pin the
better.
Equally simple linen and lawn collars
and cuffs have fine pleats for their only
ornamentation. On some the fine pleats
run straight up and down, on others they
run around the collar, and still again they
are arranged diagonally. Pleated effects
obtain in the fine lawn "Judge" collar.
The long "Judge" stole Is finely pleated.
Small white pearl or linen crocheted but
tons make an effective garniture between
the pleats.
These "Judge" collars are but a recent
outgrowth of the popular stole collar.
In fact, the stole forms the motif of
nearly all the Summer collars. It Is mod
ified in shape and multiplied indefinitely
to such good purpose that one woman
may be possessed of an almost Innumer
able number of stocks and collars without
having a single duplicate.
The craze for coarse mesh lace, which
has pervaded every other article of dress,
seems powerless in the realm of neck
wear. If real lace Is shaped Into a turn
over or stock, it is of the finer thread va
rieties. Point de "Venise is a -favorite for
the turnovers. Many of the lace stocks
are continued down in tabs and points
to give the effect of a shallow yoke. This
fashion does away with the neck line, and
will prove a boom to the woman with
the short neck.
A still further development of the lace
collar Is the deep round or pointed yoke
collars which arc attached to a standing
collar. They give the long-shouldered ef
fect, which must be attained at all costs.
Sometimes they are woven In one piece of
point de Venise, guipure or Van Dyck
laces. More often they . are hand-made
from strips of lace Insertion, joined by
fagotting or other fancy stitching. A
pretty effect Is obtained by using colored
silk for the fagotting or stitching.
These deep cape collars, whether they
have a standing collar or not, are useful
for turning a decollete waist into one
suitable for street wear, in which case
they are fastened up the back with fancy
pins, or the collar may only serve Its
original purpose of adornment, and then
is merely fastened at the throat in front.
French cambric canvas, lawn and linen
form the foundations of those collars and
cuffs which are In some color or embroid
ered In color. Care must be taken that
the color suits the color scheme of the
gown with which they are to be worn.
An effective hand-embroidered collar
and cuff set has a belt to match. The
foundation is of a heavy white linen. The
hand-embroidery takes the form of dots,
embroidered in a solid color. The belt
has an inconspicuous harness buckle of
gilt.
French cambric forms the foundation of
an extremely dainty collar and cuff set.
The collars and cuffs are oddly curved la
art nouveau designs, with the edges but-toned-holed
in white. They are finely
worked with sprays of shamrock in the
natural colors. Other sets are ornament
ed with forget-me-nots, violets and but
tercups. For the linen colored gown nothing Is
prettier than hand collars and cuffs of
heavy blue or ecru canvas. They are
oddly shaped, and are button-holed and
embroidered in heavy flax thread. Other
dainty ecrue colored collars and cuffs aro
of grass linen, embroidered In white and
colors In small flower designs.
Real or imitation Bulgarian embroidery
is very effective on the canvas collars.
Coarse thread In bright blues, reds and
greens Is used. It also forms a striking
means of ornamenting the turnover col
lars of natural colored pongee. Silver
and gold threads are also Introduced with
good effect. A pongee collar is embroid
ered with butterflies, whose wings flash
all colors gleam with silver and gold.
White silk forms the foundation of
many of the daintiest turnovers. It lends
itself readily to drawn work, applique or
embroidery. A pretty white silk cross
tie has embroidered sky spots outlined
with black. It has a fine point de Venlsa
border and ends. A white silk turnoveV
which extends In a long tab down the
front Is embroidered In a spray design of
wistaria In natural colors. Others have
clusters of .fruit cherries, grapes or.
strawberries. HARRIET HAWLEY.
UP-TO-DATE G7VRB FOR AUTOMOBILISTS ANT) GOLFERS
THEY ARE FAR FROM BEAUTIFUL BUT THEY
ARE INDISPENSABLE FOR PROTECTION
EUROPEAN- fashions for sporting use
include so many "kinks," "wrinkles"
and conveniences that the get-up
seems almost a failure If these are not
provided.
In Paris the costume for automoblllng,
especially for long distances, presents a
muffled and swathed appearance, for In
this case the Parlslenne eschews the friv
olous for the practical. Lkjoso coats, cov
ering the gown from neck to heels, are
often worn. Their protectiveness Is their
chief virtue. A baggy hood envelops the
head, and under the brim of the plain hat
big goggles loom with a grotesque ugli
ness. If the goggles are not worn a com
bined mica mask and veil may be substi
tuted. When .the thoroughly disguised beauty
lifts her skirts in getting out of the
equipage, top boots of stout leather, al
most as clumsy as those worn by duck
hunters, are sometimes disclosed.
The gloves for "active service," as the
slang phrase is, are proportionately heavy,
with hygienic perforations at the doubled
palms and unstlffened gauntlet tops but
toning over tho sleeves.
Many little conveniences are to be had
separately, among them the Deslree, a
combined mica mask, veil and hood. This
adjusts Itself to any hat. the gathered top
fitting around the crown with a rubber
drawstring. Another drawstring pulls In
the neck of the hood, and a ruffled tall
gives further surety against grime and
grit. Shower-proof gloria in soft greens,
grays and browns are much used for
these cloaks and hoods, which, when re
moved, sometimes reveal costumes of a
finished elegance that contrasts delight
fully with the shell thrown off.
Thus emerging from her chrysalis, the
automobile butterfly Is ready for the
smart luncheon or breakfast given at the
country house or club to which she has
Journeyed.
In this country, though long trips are
frequently taken, automobile attire does
not go to such extremes, except In the
Smart and Inexpensive driving:
coat.
case of the ultra-fashionable. A silk rain
cloak, assumed only for; this occasion,
may display tthe ruffled hood, but the
coat generally worn takes to unnum
bered elegancies, and the hat above It
may show all the splendors of the season.
At the recent coaching parade in Paris
many largo hats turned up at the side dis
played a single wreath or more of tiny
flowers, disposed against the otherwise
bare brim, as if flung there. Two or three
of these dainty little wreaths, when or
namenting a hat, were Interlaced with
charming effect, the headpiece showing
no other flowers than these minute gar
lands of pale pink or blue.
Stunning coats seen on the occasion
were of cloth, in colors to suit the gown
which would be worn beneath, for, cu
rious to relate, during the Bols pageant
these coats were folded in narrow parcels
and laid over the knee. Some brilliant
tints were seen scarlet, pastel blue and
rose, and Hortensla violet among them.
In contrast with these exquisitely smooth
cloths, all sorts of airy textures composed
the gowns themselves.
Inexpensive and smart ready-made coats
to be had for automoulling and driving,
both abroad and in this country, are mado
of brilliantine and fancy tweed or chev
iot. An effective model in dark blue bril
liantine is handsomely trimmed with an
Oriental banding in black, red and .white.
This Is double-breasted, with flowing
sleeves, as are the majority of such coats,
but the heavier wool stuffs, especially If
in novel weaves, are more frequently
trimmed with plain cloth than anything
else.
Tourists Summering In France and Eng
land will do well to provide themselves
with one of these coats Immediately upon
arrival, as they are indispensable for
country Jaunts. The traveler who comes
in contact with the most entertaining
people on these excursions is always the
one who Is properly dressed. The notion
that anything wHl do for the "tramp
abroad" is a great mistake.
In Paris, especially, careful toilet is
always a necessity, for there are no peo
ple in the world who are so offended by
a bad one as are the French. Many are
the biting remarks the wearer of shabby,
unfashionable 'clothes will hear as she
passos alpng the street, and since to do
as the Romans do is everywhere a pro
tection, the wise woman will not Invite
the scoffs of tne world simply becauso
she is away from home.
Golf toggery presents no exception to
the rule of sporting things, and every
trifle that can be thought of is provided
for the girl jvho wields the stick. How
ever, the maid who is out of town all
The Rolf girl of taut effects.
-
THINGS WORN BY THE GIRL "WHO AFFECTS THE RURAL.
Summer will soon slip up In theV matter
of prescribed golf effects, and In the end
she may be met In tennis sfcoes and the
remnant of a gown never intended for the
links.
It was this growing Indifference to. golf
traditions which gave rise to the sun-
bonnet, assumed in the first instance
merely because it offered more protection
for the eyea than did -the cocky little bats.
The golf sunbonnet is a thing of heart
breaking prettine8s, and it would be. tak
ing no great risk to wager that Its present
mission Is one purely of bcatincauon
Indeed, It is sometimes a little stagy In
its effects, for the newest shapes are la
straw, somewhat on the old-lady scoop
order, and these are trimmed with mulls
ana riDDons in wnue or ormuiui wur.
Sunbonnets even prettier. If not so new.
are made of white or tinted lawns, after
the shirred models which plqunntly frame
the faceof the fashionable country child
of today.
Conventional golf headgear takes all the
Jaunty shapes displayed by "ready-to-wear"
millinery, but the small sailor and
the quill-trlmmed "Tam" are favorite
styles. The sailor may be either simply
banded or decked with flowers- ana mull.
Quite as many women play golf barehead
ed as with heads covered. It only de
pends on how long one has been nt the
game, and by .the- newness and correctness
of her eet-inyls the novice known.
A swagger dress recently worn on the
links consisted of the usual dark skirt and
contrasting shirtwaist. Made of black
French broadcloth, the side pleats of the
skirt were stitched at tne edges in me
present approved way. The dapper waist.
of white wool momle cloth spotted with
red. was cut out at the neck and -finished
flatly with a red embroidered band, ending
with a stole effect at the front. A red
straw sailor, red shoes and a red leather
belt completed the get-up.
Many black skirts aro seen for golf.
and contrasted with either white or col
ored waists they are charmingly effec
tive. But the skirts In dust colored
covert and those In Invisible gray gold
cloth, with which "white and colored waists
also combine prettily, are more practical.
Some ready-made pique salts are seen
for golfing purposes. These look swag
ger with re" accsMorie, for Ted J the
thing for the links this Summer. The
most vivid shade of scarlet is the one pre
ferred, which Is positively sparkling
against green background. A cloth-skirt
In this color had a white shirt to modify
It. and a floating white scarf for the red
hat.
Correct golf skirts, If the golfer wishes
to follow the latest caper, are made -with
habit backs and fasten at the left hip.
The apron gore is extremely narrow and
put in with plain seams. Instead of the
old double hems, with their Interminable
row? of stitching, the skirt bottom is often
made heavy with inch-wide tucks placed
close together.
The approved shirt-waist is in wash ma
terials. Stout linens and delicately fig
ured cheviots above all black and white
provide the most stylish effects.
Many old models are seen In the made-
to-order gowns, but the shops stand by the ,
conventional things, displaying suits with
the Eton coats seen this long while.
Other coats will be in belted blouse shape,
fastening at the left side and sometimes
trimmed there with a border band of
some sort. A border at the left side of
the skirt repeats this, and the turn-over
cuffs of the sleeves may display the same
trimming.
Nobody says anything about the golf
petticoat. There Is a good reason why.
The golf petticoat does not exist, wash
silk bloomers having taken its place, to
the Increased comfort and satisfaction
of everybody concerned. These are in
variably in the color of the skirt worn,
with flouncing frills sometimes put be
low the knee to simulate a petticoat. How
ever, there are more golf bloomers with
out the petticoat frills than there are with
them.
The. girl with true sporting blood In her
veins grows Indifferent to such small
things as old-fashioned traditions, for the
time was when a woman could not go
without her petticoat and be a woman
still. An occasional glimpse of the fem
inine leg is not a sin nowadays, any more
than It Is a sin to see a plump young
figure entirely without corsets.
Apropos of corsets, a pretty and com
fortable one for sporting purposes gets
a hint from the boned linen waists that
our grandmothers fashioned. The lower
part Is In distinct corset cover shape,
but the straps which go over the shoul
ders are of French tape elastic. Elastic
gussets. Inserted over the hlpsr insure
further ease of movement. For slight
figures no more desirable stays than theso
could be devised for Summer occasions.
MARY DEAN.
NEWEST FADS IN SUMMER PORCH PILLOWS
EVER has the assortment of Summer
sofa pillows been prettier than It Is
this season.
The warm weather pillow occupies a con
spicuous place In the furnishings for the
country house. Not only. Is It pretty and
artistic In design, but it is serviceable
and practical as well, and can endure
the hardest usage.
The most practical of all the cushions
Is the one with the button-on cover. Eith
er silk floss or down is used for filling un
der the white undercover but the outside
must be of a heavy wash goods, canvas,
linen crash or other firm fabric. On one
side must be a set of buttons and button
holes, so that the slip may be taken off
and washed whenever necessary.
Pretty designs in tan-colored linen crash
made in an oblong shape are to be large
ly used for hammocks this Summer. Many
of the cushions of this style are em
broidered in heavy linen with the names
of songs suggestive of warm weather. "In
the Good Old Summer Time" Is a popular
motto, as Is also, "Way Down Yonder
In de Corn Field."
Cretonne cushions are to be much used
with draperies to match. They are strong,
and with a cord about the edge will stand
all sorts of wind and weather.
The big, old-fashioned handkerchief pil
lows have come into vogue again. They
are not made simply with a handkerchief
on each side and perhaps a ruffle on the
edge, as they used to be. but are cut up
Into four pieces, with the borders turned
toward the center and forming a cross.
The moro elaborate are joined in the
PLAID SnC RAIX COAT A7D "BRILLIANTINE PALETOT FOR AUTO
MOBILE WEAR.
cross-center with a- heavy beading run
through with ribbon.
Cotton Oriental cushions are sometimes
too bizarre to be pretty, but they are soft
and comfortable and are being purchased
by a great many of the country residents
for use as pillows as well as sofa cush
ions. A heavy blue canvas pillow, rather flat
and small, will be utilized by the fisher
folk during the hot weather. It Is made
to fit in the back of a boat.
Slumber pillows of pine needles are
found everywhere. They are the least
comfortable head rests Imaginable. But
they are healthful and also pretty wffen
made of pongee embroidered in a deep
shade of brown silk.
The plain leather pillow will be used
to some extent on the veranda, but It is
too expensive to be practical for out-of-door
use. The round leather pillow, un
trimmed but merely laced together with
strips of leather, makes an attractive ad
dition to the wicker cozy corner of a
gpacious Summer porch.
The absence of silk pillows of any kind
is noticeable In the stock for sale in ths
sops. Heretofore, heavy Oriental silks
have made up a large portion of tho
cushion covers for Summer homes. Tho
craze for linen. canva3, crash and cre
tonnes of all textures for draperies has
extended even into the field of warm
weather cushions.
Tramp, Tramp, Tramp.
"Tramp, Tramp, Tramp," "There's Mu
sic In the Air," "Just Before the Battle.
Mother" and many other well-known
songs, came from the pen of George Fred
erick Root, born at Sheffield. Mass., Au
gust SO, 1S20; died on Bailey's Island.
Maine, August 6, 1K)5. All of Dr. Root's
long and active life was spent in the writ
ing, teaching and publishing of music Ha
accumulated much money, but the Chi
cago fire caused the loss of much of hi3
fortune. The words of the first-named
song.are as follows, the words and music
both" coming' from the prolific pen e Dr.
Root:
In the prison cell I sit.
Thinking mother, dear, o you.
And the bright and happy home so tar away.
And tbe tears they fill my eyes
Spits of all that I can do.
Though I try to cheer my comrades and be
gay-
CHORUS.
Tramp, tramp, tramp, the boys are marching.
Cheer ui. comrades, they will come;
And beneath tho starry flag
We shall breathe the air again
Of the tree land to our own beloved home.
In the battle front we stood
When their fiercest charge was made.
And they swept us off. a hundred men or
more.
But before we reached their lines.
They were beaten bacK dismayed.
And wb heard tbe cry of vlcfry o'er and o'er.
Bo within the prison, cell
We are waiting for tha day
That shall come to open -wide tbe Iroa door;
And the hollow eye grow bright.
And the poor hart almost gay,
As we think at seeing- home and tries: oace
JBore.