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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 14, 1903)
3o THE SUNDAY 0REG02J-IAN, PORTIAD, JUNE 14, 1Q03. MTNMISr-T EFFECTS BANISH ED FROM MEW N E6KWEA"R 1 THE ETERNAL FEMININE ASSERTS ITSELF "IN THIS SUMMER'S STOCKS, COLLARS AND TIES if if LINEN COLLARS LOW AND ORNAMENTED - -f "V- MEXICAN HANDWORK TURNOVER IS EFFECTIVE OVER A BLACK STOCK. IACE AND FACiOTTED COLLAR WHICH HAS A SHALLOW TO KB. STOCK OF SATIN FOLDS AND LACE. A DUCHESSB LACE COLLAR WHICH GIVES LONG SHOULDER EFFECT. I THE choice of neckwear Is a sure in dication of taste and an item of dress potent to make or mar a cos tume. The most charming coiffure, the most aristocratic features, and the most delicately rose-tinted complexion may be coarsened by the Juxtaposition of slipshod neck arrangement- On the other hand, a dainty stock can redeem an entire toilette from the crime of mediocrity. Even the -woman whose tastes incline toward masculine cut and finish in her garments cannot resist the attractions of dainty neckwear. The eternal feminine asserts Itself In spite of education or en vironment. The business woman who Is forced by reason of economy or the rules of prac ticability to adopt the plainest of garb, finds In the stock her only outlet for the love of the beautiful. With her. loo. the taste for high mannish linen collars seems to have passed away with the styles of other seasons. The only stiff linen collars which the shops are showing are low af fairs with a turnover. Often this Is brok en into rounded tabs, or ornamented by a line of hemstitching or openwork cm broidery. The old-time stillness Is en tirely lost. A morning walk along the boulevards shows that even these collars are worn with thin, fluffy wash ties of linen and lawn. The effect Is decidedly feminine. Cuffs come to match these linen collars, and they are suitable for either morning or shopping wear. The touch of white at wrist and throat relieves the monotony of the one-tone linen costumes. Often the cuffs and collar are stitched In color to match the gown. The effect Is very good, and carries out the idea, so much sought after this season that every article of a toilette has been made with the dis tinct purpose of matching. The Tule is an old and valuable one In Paris, where the humblest grlsette knows how to impart individuality to her everyday dress. One tone costumes, with perfect matching or skillful contrast of colors. Is her max im. Her example is now being followed by the women of every nation, and this Summer brings the stock particularly un der its sway. White is the most fashionable color for the Summer stock, although colors arc also used. -But in the latter cases the stock or collar is only Intended for use with a, particular gown. A wealth of handwork Is expended on the white stocks and collars. Drawn work, lace applique and insertion and hand embroidery make them things of beauty. In all the white collar and cuff sets per haps the simplest are bands of fine linen hemstitched on all sides. The Inner spaco is often entirely filled by a drawn work pattern. Beautiful models are coming from Mexico, and clever fingers are imi tating them in all countries. These are intended to be worn over plain stocks and cuffs of the dress material. They are kept In place by small pins of gold or silver, which come in sets of three for the purpose. The less conspicuous the pin the better. Equally simple linen and lawn collars and cuffs have fine pleats for their only ornamentation. On some the fine pleats run straight up and down, on others they run around the collar, and still again they are arranged diagonally. Pleated effects obtain in the fine lawn "Judge" collar. The long "Judge" stole Is finely pleated. Small white pearl or linen crocheted but tons make an effective garniture between the pleats. These "Judge" collars are but a recent outgrowth of the popular stole collar. In fact, the stole forms the motif of nearly all the Summer collars. It Is mod ified in shape and multiplied indefinitely to such good purpose that one woman may be possessed of an almost Innumer able number of stocks and collars without having a single duplicate. The craze for coarse mesh lace, which has pervaded every other article of dress, seems powerless in the realm of neck wear. If real lace Is shaped Into a turn over or stock, it is of the finer thread va rieties. Point de "Venise is a -favorite for the turnovers. Many of the lace stocks are continued down in tabs and points to give the effect of a shallow yoke. This fashion does away with the neck line, and will prove a boom to the woman with the short neck. A still further development of the lace collar Is the deep round or pointed yoke collars which arc attached to a standing collar. They give the long-shouldered ef fect, which must be attained at all costs. Sometimes they are woven In one piece of point de Venise, guipure or Van Dyck laces. More often they . are hand-made from strips of lace Insertion, joined by fagotting or other fancy stitching. A pretty effect Is obtained by using colored silk for the fagotting or stitching. These deep cape collars, whether they have a standing collar or not, are useful for turning a decollete waist into one suitable for street wear, in which case they are fastened up the back with fancy pins, or the collar may only serve Its original purpose of adornment, and then is merely fastened at the throat in front. French cambric canvas, lawn and linen form the foundations of those collars and cuffs which are In some color or embroid ered In color. Care must be taken that the color suits the color scheme of the gown with which they are to be worn. An effective hand-embroidered collar and cuff set has a belt to match. The foundation is of a heavy white linen. The hand-embroidery takes the form of dots, embroidered in a solid color. The belt has an inconspicuous harness buckle of gilt. French cambric forms the foundation of an extremely dainty collar and cuff set. The collars and cuffs are oddly curved la art nouveau designs, with the edges but-toned-holed in white. They are finely worked with sprays of shamrock in the natural colors. Other sets are ornament ed with forget-me-nots, violets and but tercups. For the linen colored gown nothing Is prettier than hand collars and cuffs of heavy blue or ecru canvas. They are oddly shaped, and are button-holed and embroidered in heavy flax thread. Other dainty ecrue colored collars and cuffs aro of grass linen, embroidered In white and colors In small flower designs. Real or imitation Bulgarian embroidery is very effective on the canvas collars. Coarse thread In bright blues, reds and greens Is used. It also forms a striking means of ornamenting the turnover col lars of natural colored pongee. Silver and gold threads are also Introduced with good effect. A pongee collar is embroid ered with butterflies, whose wings flash all colors gleam with silver and gold. White silk forms the foundation of many of the daintiest turnovers. It lends itself readily to drawn work, applique or embroidery. A pretty white silk cross tie has embroidered sky spots outlined with black. It has a fine point de Venlsa border and ends. A white silk turnoveV which extends In a long tab down the front Is embroidered In a spray design of wistaria In natural colors. Others have clusters of .fruit cherries, grapes or. strawberries. HARRIET HAWLEY. UP-TO-DATE G7VRB FOR AUTOMOBILISTS ANT) GOLFERS THEY ARE FAR FROM BEAUTIFUL BUT THEY ARE INDISPENSABLE FOR PROTECTION EUROPEAN- fashions for sporting use include so many "kinks," "wrinkles" and conveniences that the get-up seems almost a failure If these are not provided. In Paris the costume for automoblllng, especially for long distances, presents a muffled and swathed appearance, for In this case the Parlslenne eschews the friv olous for the practical. Lkjoso coats, cov ering the gown from neck to heels, are often worn. Their protectiveness Is their chief virtue. A baggy hood envelops the head, and under the brim of the plain hat big goggles loom with a grotesque ugli ness. If the goggles are not worn a com bined mica mask and veil may be substi tuted. When .the thoroughly disguised beauty lifts her skirts in getting out of the equipage, top boots of stout leather, al most as clumsy as those worn by duck hunters, are sometimes disclosed. The gloves for "active service," as the slang phrase is, are proportionately heavy, with hygienic perforations at the doubled palms and unstlffened gauntlet tops but toning over tho sleeves. Many little conveniences are to be had separately, among them the Deslree, a combined mica mask, veil and hood. This adjusts Itself to any hat. the gathered top fitting around the crown with a rubber drawstring. Another drawstring pulls In the neck of the hood, and a ruffled tall gives further surety against grime and grit. Shower-proof gloria in soft greens, grays and browns are much used for these cloaks and hoods, which, when re moved, sometimes reveal costumes of a finished elegance that contrasts delight fully with the shell thrown off. Thus emerging from her chrysalis, the automobile butterfly Is ready for the smart luncheon or breakfast given at the country house or club to which she has Journeyed. In this country, though long trips are frequently taken, automobile attire does not go to such extremes, except In the Smart and Inexpensive driving: coat. case of the ultra-fashionable. A silk rain cloak, assumed only for; this occasion, may display tthe ruffled hood, but the coat generally worn takes to unnum bered elegancies, and the hat above It may show all the splendors of the season. At the recent coaching parade in Paris many largo hats turned up at the side dis played a single wreath or more of tiny flowers, disposed against the otherwise bare brim, as if flung there. Two or three of these dainty little wreaths, when or namenting a hat, were Interlaced with charming effect, the headpiece showing no other flowers than these minute gar lands of pale pink or blue. Stunning coats seen on the occasion were of cloth, in colors to suit the gown which would be worn beneath, for, cu rious to relate, during the Bols pageant these coats were folded in narrow parcels and laid over the knee. Some brilliant tints were seen scarlet, pastel blue and rose, and Hortensla violet among them. In contrast with these exquisitely smooth cloths, all sorts of airy textures composed the gowns themselves. Inexpensive and smart ready-made coats to be had for automoulling and driving, both abroad and in this country, are mado of brilliantine and fancy tweed or chev iot. An effective model in dark blue bril liantine is handsomely trimmed with an Oriental banding in black, red and .white. This Is double-breasted, with flowing sleeves, as are the majority of such coats, but the heavier wool stuffs, especially If in novel weaves, are more frequently trimmed with plain cloth than anything else. Tourists Summering In France and Eng land will do well to provide themselves with one of these coats Immediately upon arrival, as they are indispensable for country Jaunts. The traveler who comes in contact with the most entertaining people on these excursions is always the one who Is properly dressed. The notion that anything wHl do for the "tramp abroad" is a great mistake. In Paris, especially, careful toilet is always a necessity, for there are no peo ple in the world who are so offended by a bad one as are the French. Many are the biting remarks the wearer of shabby, unfashionable 'clothes will hear as she passos alpng the street, and since to do as the Romans do is everywhere a pro tection, the wise woman will not Invite the scoffs of tne world simply becauso she is away from home. Golf toggery presents no exception to the rule of sporting things, and every trifle that can be thought of is provided for the girl jvho wields the stick. How ever, the maid who is out of town all The Rolf girl of taut effects. - THINGS WORN BY THE GIRL "WHO AFFECTS THE RURAL. Summer will soon slip up In theV matter of prescribed golf effects, and In the end she may be met In tennis sfcoes and the remnant of a gown never intended for the links. It was this growing Indifference to. golf traditions which gave rise to the sun- bonnet, assumed in the first instance merely because it offered more protection for the eyea than did -the cocky little bats. The golf sunbonnet is a thing of heart breaking prettine8s, and it would be. tak ing no great risk to wager that Its present mission Is one purely of bcatincauon Indeed, It is sometimes a little stagy In its effects, for the newest shapes are la straw, somewhat on the old-lady scoop order, and these are trimmed with mulls ana riDDons in wnue or ormuiui wur. Sunbonnets even prettier. If not so new. are made of white or tinted lawns, after the shirred models which plqunntly frame the faceof the fashionable country child of today. Conventional golf headgear takes all the Jaunty shapes displayed by "ready-to-wear" millinery, but the small sailor and the quill-trlmmed "Tam" are favorite styles. The sailor may be either simply banded or decked with flowers- ana mull. Quite as many women play golf barehead ed as with heads covered. It only de pends on how long one has been nt the game, and by .the- newness and correctness of her eet-inyls the novice known. A swagger dress recently worn on the links consisted of the usual dark skirt and contrasting shirtwaist. Made of black French broadcloth, the side pleats of the skirt were stitched at tne edges in me present approved way. The dapper waist. of white wool momle cloth spotted with red. was cut out at the neck and -finished flatly with a red embroidered band, ending with a stole effect at the front. A red straw sailor, red shoes and a red leather belt completed the get-up. Many black skirts aro seen for golf. and contrasted with either white or col ored waists they are charmingly effec tive. But the skirts In dust colored covert and those In Invisible gray gold cloth, with which "white and colored waists also combine prettily, are more practical. Some ready-made pique salts are seen for golfing purposes. These look swag ger with re" accsMorie, for Ted J the thing for the links this Summer. The most vivid shade of scarlet is the one pre ferred, which Is positively sparkling against green background. A cloth-skirt In this color had a white shirt to modify It. and a floating white scarf for the red hat. Correct golf skirts, If the golfer wishes to follow the latest caper, are made -with habit backs and fasten at the left hip. The apron gore is extremely narrow and put in with plain seams. Instead of the old double hems, with their Interminable row? of stitching, the skirt bottom is often made heavy with inch-wide tucks placed close together. The approved shirt-waist is in wash ma terials. Stout linens and delicately fig ured cheviots above all black and white provide the most stylish effects. Many old models are seen In the made- to-order gowns, but the shops stand by the , conventional things, displaying suits with the Eton coats seen this long while. Other coats will be in belted blouse shape, fastening at the left side and sometimes trimmed there with a border band of some sort. A border at the left side of the skirt repeats this, and the turn-over cuffs of the sleeves may display the same trimming. Nobody says anything about the golf petticoat. There Is a good reason why. The golf petticoat does not exist, wash silk bloomers having taken its place, to the Increased comfort and satisfaction of everybody concerned. These are in variably in the color of the skirt worn, with flouncing frills sometimes put be low the knee to simulate a petticoat. How ever, there are more golf bloomers with out the petticoat frills than there are with them. The. girl with true sporting blood In her veins grows Indifferent to such small things as old-fashioned traditions, for the time was when a woman could not go without her petticoat and be a woman still. An occasional glimpse of the fem inine leg is not a sin nowadays, any more than It Is a sin to see a plump young figure entirely without corsets. Apropos of corsets, a pretty and com fortable one for sporting purposes gets a hint from the boned linen waists that our grandmothers fashioned. The lower part Is In distinct corset cover shape, but the straps which go over the shoul ders are of French tape elastic. Elastic gussets. Inserted over the hlpsr insure further ease of movement. For slight figures no more desirable stays than theso could be devised for Summer occasions. MARY DEAN. NEWEST FADS IN SUMMER PORCH PILLOWS EVER has the assortment of Summer sofa pillows been prettier than It Is this season. The warm weather pillow occupies a con spicuous place In the furnishings for the country house. Not only. Is It pretty and artistic In design, but it is serviceable and practical as well, and can endure the hardest usage. The most practical of all the cushions Is the one with the button-on cover. Eith er silk floss or down is used for filling un der the white undercover but the outside must be of a heavy wash goods, canvas, linen crash or other firm fabric. On one side must be a set of buttons and button holes, so that the slip may be taken off and washed whenever necessary. Pretty designs in tan-colored linen crash made in an oblong shape are to be large ly used for hammocks this Summer. Many of the cushions of this style are em broidered in heavy linen with the names of songs suggestive of warm weather. "In the Good Old Summer Time" Is a popular motto, as Is also, "Way Down Yonder In de Corn Field." Cretonne cushions are to be much used with draperies to match. They are strong, and with a cord about the edge will stand all sorts of wind and weather. The big, old-fashioned handkerchief pil lows have come into vogue again. They are not made simply with a handkerchief on each side and perhaps a ruffle on the edge, as they used to be. but are cut up Into four pieces, with the borders turned toward the center and forming a cross. The moro elaborate are joined in the PLAID SnC RAIX COAT A7D "BRILLIANTINE PALETOT FOR AUTO MOBILE WEAR. cross-center with a- heavy beading run through with ribbon. Cotton Oriental cushions are sometimes too bizarre to be pretty, but they are soft and comfortable and are being purchased by a great many of the country residents for use as pillows as well as sofa cush ions. A heavy blue canvas pillow, rather flat and small, will be utilized by the fisher folk during the hot weather. It Is made to fit in the back of a boat. Slumber pillows of pine needles are found everywhere. They are the least comfortable head rests Imaginable. But they are healthful and also pretty wffen made of pongee embroidered in a deep shade of brown silk. The plain leather pillow will be used to some extent on the veranda, but It is too expensive to be practical for out-of-door use. The round leather pillow, un trimmed but merely laced together with strips of leather, makes an attractive ad dition to the wicker cozy corner of a gpacious Summer porch. The absence of silk pillows of any kind is noticeable In the stock for sale in ths sops. Heretofore, heavy Oriental silks have made up a large portion of tho cushion covers for Summer homes. Tho craze for linen. canva3, crash and cre tonnes of all textures for draperies has extended even into the field of warm weather cushions. Tramp, Tramp, Tramp. "Tramp, Tramp, Tramp," "There's Mu sic In the Air," "Just Before the Battle. Mother" and many other well-known songs, came from the pen of George Fred erick Root, born at Sheffield. Mass., Au gust SO, 1S20; died on Bailey's Island. Maine, August 6, 1K)5. All of Dr. Root's long and active life was spent in the writ ing, teaching and publishing of music Ha accumulated much money, but the Chi cago fire caused the loss of much of hi3 fortune. The words of the first-named song.are as follows, the words and music both" coming' from the prolific pen e Dr. Root: In the prison cell I sit. Thinking mother, dear, o you. And the bright and happy home so tar away. And tbe tears they fill my eyes Spits of all that I can do. Though I try to cheer my comrades and be gay- CHORUS. Tramp, tramp, tramp, the boys are marching. Cheer ui. comrades, they will come; And beneath tho starry flag We shall breathe the air again Of the tree land to our own beloved home. In the battle front we stood When their fiercest charge was made. And they swept us off. a hundred men or more. But before we reached their lines. They were beaten bacK dismayed. And wb heard tbe cry of vlcfry o'er and o'er. Bo within the prison, cell We are waiting for tha day That shall come to open -wide tbe Iroa door; And the hollow eye grow bright. And the poor hart almost gay, As we think at seeing- home and tries: oace JBore.
