PAKASOLS FO"R THE SC1MMER GIRL "fSg"1
TED custom of going bareheaded
promises to be. more than ever -widely
followed this season. It Is a
pretty fashion, for never does a woman
look more bcatiful and charming- than
when the Bummer wind blows her hair
In soft confusion around her forehead.
But she, who has some thought for her
complexion, will take a parasol In place
of the discarded hat. Freckles are not be
coming, nor Is a coat of tan a desirable
addition to an Autumn toilet.
Even apart from such considerations,
the Summer parasols are sufficiently al
luring. "What feminine eye can resist
their beauty of coloring or bewilderment
of ruffles? So Impossible is It to pick and
choose among them that It Is well that
the smart woman must have a number
to complete her toilet.
The silk coaching parasols are the
simplest, and, perhaps, the smartest. They
come in bright checks red and white, blue
and white, green and white, red and blue,
and many other combinations, with a
four-4nch border in solid color. Or the
etylo is reversed in a plain colored para
sol with border of the check. In the same
daes with these are the tartan plaids.
They are very striking with a border of
eoiid color. To match the pongee silk
frowns are parasols of the same material,
idther plain or with a border of narrow
(contrasting stripes. All of these silk
parasols are for rain as well as shine,
pand are, therefore, practicable for every
jfloy use.
Nor must the mercerized linen and cot
ton parasols be overlooked. They are
proving popular. Certainly they give the
last touch of elegance when made to
match a linen toilet. The exclusive
woman can be pretty sure that her para
sol will not be duplicated, and this alone
is balm to her spirit. These linen para
eols wear well, and are reasonable in
price, even when made to order.
Others of the unruffled silk parasols In
cline to Oriental or Japanese effect. They
,!bnt follow out the craze of the last
"Winter. A parasol in rich, creamy yel
low, which recalls the dus.ty minarets of
the East, has embroidered squares scat
tered over its surface. The embroidery
simulates an Arabic sign. A distinctively
THE WEALTH -G I VI NG
PERFUME acts as a beauty spelL
The woman who wishes to fascinate
begins by creating a pleasant atmos
phere. She perfumes her hair and im
fparts the odor of roses or of violets to
j&er skin by a more or less elaborate proc
ess. There is a practical as well as an es
thetic side, however, to this lavish use
of perfumes or flowers. Many kinds
mora particularly roses will quiet the
sierves, acting as a sedative. Inhaled in
stead of salts, a fragrant rose will often
soothe a headache. That a vinaigrette
may be displaced by a flower is a charm
fing fancy. For one thing, a woman looks
touch more picturesque when inhaling the
tperfume of flowers. A rose held in the
-mouth may keep away contagion. It is
fcertainly a more agreeable panacea than a
camphor bag. If the blues can be driven
rway by Spring flowers, as it is held, they
-certainly hove a mission which must be
-considered by the beauty-seeker.
To perfume the flesh, to make it soft,
elastic and pink like a baby's cheek, a
flower bath preceded by a milk bath, must
be taken.
If the 20 gallons of milk necessary for
bath cannot be obtained, the body may
be sponged off with milk slightly warmed.
The flower bath follows. If it is of roses,
a quantity of rose petals are put into a
bag and covered with boiling water. The
'water Js allowed to boll for ten minutes'.
Xt is then cooled and poured into the bath
tub, which must be half filled with tepid
-water.
The bather lies quietly in this for 15 or
ft minutes. After drying the body, a sham
poo of rose water is taken by means of an
Atomizer or a bath sprinkler.
This does not conclude the process
(known as a flower bath, for masses of
Ihe flower must be inhaled. The fragrance
pt many roses is strong and permeating.
i!By breathing in the perfume and burying
)the head in great clusters of the flower,
Che skin, with the pores open from the
fcwarm milk, readily absorbs It.
After beauties of olden times had bathed
In milk which contained the juice of
strawberries and raspberries, they took a
fbrisk rub with sponges soaked in per
umc9. The flower bath is the expression of the
tnodem maid's sybaritic longings, but the
tod is too costly for ordinary mortals' In
dulgence. There is a way of perfuming
MTnriiri
THE
Japanese parasol is of Bage green silk
and has a wide border of a vertical striped
bright blue and white. Silk ribbon niching
in the same metallic shade of blue out
lines the two elges of the "border.
The handle is an important factor of
the Oriental parasols. The most expen
sive come in bizarre designs in lacquer,
porcelain, bronze and carved ivoroy. Some
of the clolsome handles are charming with
their strange patterns and terra cotta
celestial blue, picked out in gleaming
silver wire. The bronze handles ore mostly
in the shape of strange beasts or birds,
grotesque figures, or hideous gods. They
the hair, however, which any one may try,
and. the result Is always satisfactory.
"With the tips of the Angers dipped in
rose water, the scalp is given a gentle
massage, then brushed with slow gliding
motion up and down, and to the right and
to the left. Then the extract of rose or (
violet, placed in an atomizer, made for the
purpose, is sprayed over the head. The at
omizer may be used without taking down
the hair or without disarranging a lock,
the perfume being sprayed through the
comb-like arrangement attached to the at
omizer. Queen Alexander uses heliotrope on her
hair.
The Queen of Portugal scents her hair
with violets.- Her hair Is brilliantly
glossy and always arranged in the height
of the mode.
Queen Christina of Spain and the young
King's sisters perfume their hair with a
Spanish extract that is much like rose.
Queen "Wilhelmlna also likes rose. Her
hair Is sprinkled and washed with rose
water daily, and several quarts of cologne
are used In her morning bath.
Queen Elizabeth perfumed her wigs with
Spanish leather steeped in musk.
The incroyable of the time of the Di
rectory recognized one another by the pe
culiar and secretly prepared odor, made
from nutmeg, in which their curled wigs
were steeped.
It was. Medea who discovered a flower
which could make the color of the hair
black or white. Much of her made oower
consisted In her skill as a perfumer and '
as an Inventor of warm vapor baths.
"When a heroine fainted in the pages of
the "Arabian Nights," she was always
brought to herself again by having per
fumed water dashed upon her face, and
then flowers were given her to smell.
i
Perfumes are associated with the great
beauties of the world and with many of
the greatest men. Helen of Troy owed
much of her loveliness to her knowledge
of sweet essences.
Matilda, wife of Henry I of England,
always kept rose water on her dining
table.
The Empress Josephine made lavish use
of cosmetics, which were perfumed with
the tropical flowers sent from her "West
Indian home. Napoleon was very suscep
tible to the action of perfumes, and made
lavish use of perfumed waters in the bath.
To such an extent was the love of per
fumes carried In ancient Greece and
Rome that each part of the body had its I
peculiar unguent. The neck and arms re
quired balsam, the cheeks and throat palm
oil. the hair sweet marjoram, the knees
wild thyme, and the feet sweet basil.
Cosmetics for tho use of young girls
REAL SUMMER GIRL NEVER WEARS
mm9 - t wmmmam
jjj
COACHING PARASOLS IX JAPANESE EFFECTS.
seem a strange accompaniment for a
beautiful woman. Perhaps their con
trast heightens her charm.
The carved Ivory handles are really
articles of virtue, fit to grace the cabinet
of a collector. One seen lately had a
delicate tracery of birds, flowering
branches, and butterflies entwining the
long ivory stick. The knob at the end
was formed of three tiny mice so faith
fully carved that one could almost see the
satin smoothness of the skins, the move
ment of their nimble feet.
With more elaborate costumes, however,
the shirred and ruffled parasols will be
carried, and they will vie with "the gown
in intricacy of detail.
POPEKTIES OF PERFUMES
I I il MI1IW 'Hi i Mi I I IHIIHH1 M Ml i II 111 ii II III
PERFUMING THE HAIR WITHOUT DISARRANGING IT. FLOWERS SOOTHE THE NERVES. INHALING THE PERFUME OF A ROSE TO CURE A HEADACHE
J
contained only one scent; for older women
the mixture was more complex, while a
Queen used an emollient containing no
less than 27 costly ingredients.
Scythian women, according to Herod
otus, would bruise under a stone wood of
cypress cedar and frankincense. Upon
this they poured a quantity of water and
A HAT.
For the garden party, parasols of pom
padour silk will be en regeie. They are
veiled by a shirring of net or chiffon,
through which the silk gleams with
charming effect. Net will be an even
greater favorite than chiffon for these
shirrlngs. Striped and dotted net and
allover lace will also be used. The shir
ring is generally finished off by a ruchlng
of the same material.
A recent parasol development Is shir
ring applied to the inside as well as the
outside. In fact, some parasols have
only the Inside shirrlngs. The effect Is
becoming to the face of the' Summer girl
then anointed the face and body to Impart
an agreeable odor and to make the skin
EOft and beautiful.
Of all scents, lavender Is particularly
suited to high strung temperaments. It
Is soothing as well as refreshing, without
being unduly stimulating. Jasmine should
always be used pure. Alone it tones and
braces the whole system, but In almost
all of Its compounds It Is singularly de
pressing. Combined with neroli, jasmine
In faint essence ls ihe scent of scents for
all who have hysterical tendencies.
All the citrene scents, neroli. bergamot
and orange-flower water, are stimulating.
An economical scent to use for perfum
ing the bath is made by adding one ounce
of bergamot to one pint of alcohol, or one
half ounce of essential oil of lavender and
one dram of cloves to one pint of alcohol.
Another aromatic water is composed of:
Attar of neroli A drs.
Attar ofM-osemary 2 drs.
Attar of orange zest 2 drs.
Attar of citron zest 3 drs.
Attar of bergamot ...4 drs.
Alcohol 1 qt.
Mix and stir well. Let it stand for a
few days before bottling.
Still another is made of
Extract of Tonquln be an 2 gills.
Extract of geranium ,2 sills.
Extract of oranga flowers 1 Kill.
Extract of rote flowers eill.
Extract of Jasmine ..t gill.
Rose -water 2 qta.
"Etolen Kisses" is the curious name of
an extract which was used by court la
dies in the reign of Louis XV.
The kfofes of a thousand flowers.
Stolen from them while they sleep.
It is made of
Extract of jonquil ; 1 or.
Extract of Tonquln bean ........1 03.
Extract of orris 1 or.
Extract of rose H or.
Extract of- acacia i oz.
Extract of amt.srgrls or.
Attar of cltrouella ...tfdr.
Attar of verbena dr.
Alcohol 1 qt.
May flowers, a frequent and refreshing
toilet water, is made of
Extract of rof $4 oz.
Extract of Jasmin .- 03.
Extract flem d'orange ox.
Extract of cale , or.
Extract of vanilla Vi oz.
Attar of almonds .."H dr.
Boas water 1 qt.
KATHERINE MORTON.
Tie People' Prayer.
God give us men! A time like this demands
Strong minds, great hearts, true faith and
ready hands;
Men whom the lust of office does not kill;
Men whom the spoils of office can not buy;
Men who possess opinions and a will;
Men who have honor; men who will not lie;
Men who can stand before a demagogue
And damn his treacherous flatteries without
winking;
Tall men, sun-crowned, who live steove the fog
In public duty and In private thinking.
For while the rabble with taelr UsHa&wera
creeds, " -
Their large profession and their little deeds.
Mingle in selfish strife, lot Freedom weepr,
"Wrens: rules the taa4, bA waiting Jastlee
sleep . J. G. HsJUsd.
A COUPLE
who Is wise enough to select It. .Some
times the shirring only extends as a
border half way up the parasol. The soft
ening effect is equally as good. This plan
may be followed on the outside of the
parasol as well for purposes of diversity.
Lace insertions and medallions are
much used on the most expensive para
sols. On these tbe ruffles are mote often
of lace. or if they are chiffon, they , are
edged with narrow lace. Some stunning
effects In black and white are thus ob
tained. A typical parasol has central shirring
of white chiffon extending' to a depth of
six Inches. Below this Is an irregular
Inserting of black lace three Inches wide.
USEFUL GIFTS FO"R WOMEN
THESE are the busy days when
many women make ready their
wardrobes and plan the contents of
trunks which will accompany them
abroad or on a sojourn in the- mountains
or at the seasnore. Those who stay at
home occupy their fingers In preparing
gifts, both useful and ornamental, for
those who are leaving, but good will often
outruns discretion and the gift becomes
a burden to its recipient.
Useful gifts to any traveler are the
rubber or ollsllk lined toilet sets. These .
consist of a bag for sponge and wash rag,
and a flat case with flaps for soap, comb,
tooth brush, mil brush and hair brush.
The cases are made of white or tinted
linen embroidered in a contrasting color,
with white as a favorite. Those who do
not embroider can bind the edges of their
cases' and bags with a narrow colored pil
low, which can be carried in the hand or
slung over the shoulder.
Only a traveler can realize the comfort
of these rubber-lined cases. They occupy
less room than anything else made for
the purpose, and keep the dressing bag
and Its contents perfectly dry.
A laprobe, crocheted, knitted or other
wise, Is another useful gift to the trav
eler. Its usefulness need not be dilated
upon.
' Still another serviceable gift is a com
bination pillow and big. This consists
of a lonp piece of linen, denim or cre
tonne, sewed together part of the way
and stuffed to form a pillow. The portion
that is left free is turned up on the side
of the pillow and sewed to it at each end,
leaving an open pocket into which a
shawl, book or fancy work, or all three,
may be tucked. A strap of the same ma
terial is fastened to the ends of the pil
low which- can be carried in the hand or
slung over the shoulder.
Such pillows are usually made in dull
colors and simply worked around the
border, on the strap and the hem of the
pocket, with feather-stitching. A narrow
linen or cotton braid would be quite as
pretty.
Most women who go to the mountains
are so charmed by the beauty of the
ferns that they yield to the temptation
to dig up the graceful clusters and deco
rate their rooms with them. Unfortunate
ly, crinkled paper and other coverings
for flower pots cannot be procured In
most mountain resorts, and even they
who sell ferns in tomato cans do not al
ways hide their pristine glimmer with
birch bark. Travelers in the xaoantalas,
therefore, would bo grateful for some
OF PARASOLS THAT HAV E BEEN" REX
Below this again are double ruffles of
the chiffon, edged with narrow, black
satin ribbon. These ruffle edgings help
to keep the ruffle from falling limply Into
an Indistinguishable mass of material.
Many of the chlffoned ruffled parasols,
have the narrow .ruffling within as well as
without the brim-
Floral fans bid fair to be paramount the
entire Summer, therefore the blossom fans
will be worn on all occasions. Violet and
forget-me-nof fans are charming with
certain toilettes, but pink and red rose
fans come nearest to nature. They are
like great bouquets. Many fans are even
scented to carry out the Illusion. These
FLOWERS SOOTHE NERVES AND ROSES WILL
ALLEVIATE HEADACHES
thing with which to cover their fern
dishes.
The giver of gifts would do well to fash
ion a number of bottomless bags, about
the depth of a tomato can and large
enough to fit around a small wooden pall,
of green denim or sllkolene, with a green
ribbon passed through little cords on the
outside, or run through a hem at the top
and bottom. This draws the cloth into
jilace and is tied In a bow.
The woman who goes to sea knows the
comfort Induced by a pair of silk sheets,
which do not have that clammy feeling
found In linen and cotton sheets on ship
board. Made of cheap, soft China or India
silk, such a gift may be adorned with
fancy stitching on the hems and a mono
gram embroidered in the corner.
Pretty bottles of smelling salts, laven
der and camphor are more acceptable to
the traveler than a box of candy.
Fleecy coverings for the head or shoul
ders, made with a crochet needle, arc as
pretty as they are useful to the traveler
BEAUTY DONTS FOR ATHLETIC WOMEN
DON'T exercise one part of the body too
much and another part not at all. Let
the development be symmetrical.
Don't use too much force. If exercise
is too vigorous, you will be exhausted be
fore you can complete it.
Don't exercise beyond the ability of the
heart to keep pace with you. Palpitation
is a certain indication of excess.
Don't exercise for at least an hour after
meals.
Don't forget that a bath should follow
exercise.
Don't use iron dumbbells, but wooden
ones. The former chill the blood.
Don't have Intermittent attacks of ex
ercising your muscle. In order to receive
any benefit, you should devote some time
daily to athletics.
Don't forget that where there's a will
there's a "way. If you really mean to be
come strong and shapely, Hhe way is easy
and simple.
Don't forget to Inhale slowly and deeply
when performing any exercise. This will
make the chest deep and full.
Don't think that athletics should be a
matter of Inches and pounds only. Their
increase is certain to tell most beneficially
on the health and spirits as welL
Don't exercise a moment after you feel
sxkaustedi.
Dok't stand with the back "bent over;
OVATE D.
flower fans are striking. One worn re
cently with a toilette of black lace had
black sticks. The flower fan will be seen
at all the garden party and afternoon
affairs.
Feather fans will also be much used. A
typical one, in vivid greens and blues, has
sticks of bronze. It was recently worn
with a green silk reception toilette. An
other type of fan, because of its simplic
ity, will be used with costumes which
follow the old-fashio'ned lines so much
copied this Summer. One of these fans
has a foundation of peachblow silk. It la
ornamented with rows of satin ribbon
in a slightly darker shade and with In
numerable silver sequins, geometrically
applied. HARRIET HAWLEY.
TRAVELERS
or sojourner at Summer resorts, while
crocheted slippers should never be for
gotten. Almost every woman who goes away
for the Summer, whether she does fancy
work at home or not. takes with her
something of the sort to. while away dull
hours or a rainy day. She Is grateful
to the friend who has supplied her with
a charming combination of bag and work
basket to carry it in. Such a bag should
be made on the prettiest of figured or bro
caded silk and gathered full to the edges
of a small circle of pasteboard covered
with the silk. This forms the bottom of
the bag, and a similar piece Inside covers
the seams. The bag should have two rib
bon drawstrings near the top, ending in
full bows. The silk lining In such a bag
is divided Into pockets for scissors, em
broidery silks, thread, thimble, buttons,
hooks, tapes and darning cotton. It has
a small needle book, pin cushion and em
ery attached to the Inside by ribbons.
Sometimes a dainty, ribbon-trimmed pock
et for the handkerchief is added to the
outside.
the shoulders thrown forward, the head
drooped and the chest sunk in.
Don't protrude the hip and abdomen,
or rest the weight unevenly upon the feet.
No exercise is of any benefit whatever
unless the correct standing position Is
taken every time.
Don't forget that every woman is as
young as she looks, but that she cannot
look young w a broken figure.
' After a. Hundred Years.
In a little village of Cornwall, Eng
land, a visiting nobleman sought in vain
for something stronger than water to
drink.
"How is it," he Inquired, "that I can't
get a glass of liquor in this wretched vil
lage of yours?"
"My lord," replied the villager, "something-
over a hundred years ago a man
named "Wesley came to these parts."
For a century that village had been in
fluenced by the power of one man's per
sonalitythe man whom Augustine Blr
rell regards as the greatest force of the
18th century in England. "You cannot
cut John Wesley out of the National
life," he says. "No single figure influ
enced so many minds, no single voice
touched so many hearts. No other man
did such a life's work for England."
There ara only two flowers that will wita
vtans dlUlIatlE rote red tfea arxam
flower; "