THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, FOItTLAtTO,. FEBRUARY 15, 1903
FASHIONS I7M SHIRTWAISTS FCTR SPRING AND SUMMER
rrnnm-elt. which has lone shoulder strans
extending over the sleeve In a point and
forming part of an artistlc-looKing yoke,
which Is all ono piece. It has a sheath
THEY ARE MORE
ELABORATE
AND DAINTIER
THAN EVER
BEFORE 9f I INEN
IN ALL SORTS
OF WEAVES
cipnvi. which onens over a slightly gath
ered puff, finished with a wristband. The
piping Is of bright plaid and merely shows
a cord of color.
Probably the smartest of the new styles
Is the Unique waist, with its .ively
flower petal yoke and sleeve cap. Noth
ing in the waist line has ever been cut
moro artistically than the long flower
petals that form the yoke and sleeve
tnn Thpsa cxaeeful Dleces are usually
rlchly embroidered or trimmed in some
way, sometimes with only a self-stltched
fold.
28
THE shirtwaist girl of the coming
Spring and Summer will have a
great number of beautiful confec
tions, in all manner of fabrics, from
which to select what will best become her !
style of beauty. So elaborate arc the j
new shirtwaists that the namo is scarcely '
dainty enough for the pretty creations of !
swlss, batiste end lace, embroidery, and
a wonderful assortment of sllUs and lln- j
ens.
Linen, In a marvelous number of dlf-
ferent weaves, promises to be the most
fashionable of all shirtwaist fabrics for
warm weather. Under the general term
of butcher linen, beautiful new weaves
are Introduced. One of these is a heavy
basket weave, and others imitate canvas,
crepe de chine and voile In soft effects.
All grades and qualities of butcher linen
are to bo seen In every shade of ecru,
cream color, white, blue and other less
fashionable colors.
A great deal of hand embroidery In
large patterns is seen upon waists of the
heavy qualities of linen, while the
sheer qualities aro trimmed elaborately
with lace, Berlin squares and email tucks
in clusters. Raised appliques of heavy
lace, or embroidery in clusters of fruit
or flowers, are charmingly disposed upon (
me tmn wnue waists. Kothlng in this
mode of decoration could be prettier
then appliques of butterflies that aro so
put on as to look like real butterflies,
blown upon the waist by some light Sum
mer breeze.
Spring and Summer waists of sheer
auallty aro trimmed across the tops of
the sleevesi in a manner to produce broad
shoulder effects. The fronts are much
trimmed and fastened with a double fly.
DANCING AS A
THEY move easiest and with most
grace who have learned to dance.
Head, arms, hands, limbs, feet, all
are symmetrical and pliant; and, more
Important still, dancing Is a panacea for
many physical Ills.
One Is round-shouldered, perhaps. In
the dance the shoulders must be held
back.
Or the toes may turn la. In the dance
the feet are turned out. Every muscle
of hips, legs, ankles and Insteps are ex
ercised, and the limbs, therefore, attain
greater strength and elasticity; the whole
body moves with more freedom and ac
quires an added ease and grace.
One can hardly be too young to learn
the terpslchorean art. If a child Is to
be trained as a ballet dancer, she Is taken
at 4 or 6 years of age. The way the little
girl Is turned and twisted In her teacher's
hands is a wonder. Every Joint, from
neck to toe. Is made flexible by exercise.
The back bend, the reserved crawl on the
outstretched hands and feet, face upward,
and the split all go to make up the train
ing. This rigorous system, however. Is only
for the professional. The amateur, who
would learn dancing for the pleasure that
It gives, as well as to Improve her phys
ical condition, should begin as early as
possible, but she need not despair, even in
mature years, of acquiring. In a degree,
the ease nnd grace which comes from
practicing the different steps.
If one wishes to reduce a too pronounced
embonpoint about the waist and hips, let
her practice In the privacy of her room,
with herself alone for teacher, some or
all of tho following movements:
Standing correctly, rest the weight upon
the left foot and step forward on the right
foot. With the knee bent, gradually
transfer the weight of tho body from tho
left to the right foot and log, leaving the
left leg extended. Bend the body forward
slightly, then straighten and throw It
backward as the weight la again brought
upon the left foot Reverse the move
ment. '
Keeping the shoulders perfectly still,
tho body erect and the head well poised.
extend the right foot forward, touching
the toe to the floor on a line dlrtctly In
front of the position from which It start'
ed. Lift the foot up from the floor when
moving It. The weight of the body must
remain on the stationary foot. The move
ment of course, must alternate first with
the right, then with the left foot
Extend the foot at the side and touch
lightly the side of the toe, stretching the
Instep as straight as possible. Keep the
shoulders square and to the front
To develop the ankles and calves, rising
on the toes Is excellent practice. Step
lorwara with the right foot as In walking.
Bring the left heel up beside the right at
the same time quickly rising on the toes
and lowering the heels to position. Step
forward with the left foot Bring up the
right foot rise on the toes and lower
tne neeis to position, step backward with
the right foot and draw the left foot
back beside the right Raise on the toes
and lower the heels to position. Make the
came movements with the left foot lead
ing.
After rising on the toes as high as pos
sible, put the heels down slowly, with
tho weight of the body remaining on the
forward part of the foot after the heels
are lowered.
Step forward with the right foot, with
the knee bent Without moving the foot
straighten the knee and transfer the
weight to the rear foot and bend the rear
knee. Sway forward to the first position.
then to the second, and so on, back and
forth 10 or IS times.
In bending for grace, take the correct
standing position. Tiend the body for
ward, raise it and curve first one arm and
then the other above the head, or on a
level with It Lift the chest and then the
head, with a graceful, arching movement
This movement also Insures an easy poise
of the head and corrects any angular ges
tures.
One acquires great flexibility, an Im
portant part In gracefulness, by this toe
trlpplng, or pas de seuL Society maids
end matrons practice the step, sometimes
talcing Instructions from a mistress of
the ballet
"Not that we wish to learn the art of
tripping gracefully on the point of one
big toe, dear nor they assure you. "But
Linens itKIi zaednlllons and
having small pearl buttons on each side,
or with three large pearl buttons In the
center. The sleeves usually have length
USEFUL EXERCISE
IT GIVES A WOMAN FLEXIBLE MUSCLES AND A
OF MANY PRETTY CUSTOMS.
we wish to make our muscles pliant and
flexible."
For this reason they also learn the skirt
dance and the fandango, which are really
classic forms of toxs-tiipplng.
The curtsy, or salutation, they must
also learn. This Is practiced to perfec-
7 4BB1EZ' BBBBBBBBBl (Mil k 1311.
'I 'Mp-' jgH To make the minuet curtsy the right
i ' -jH . foot is carried about nine Inches from tho
t " f '"Y 'ssssssH Icft foot acd placed parallel to It, while
Jt fsB the lady turn partly to her partner. Then
To Insure u ensy poise of the head and to correct
any angular sestnrcs.
band embroidery.
The "Alice
wise tucks and inserting to the waist- lace around the cuffs above the wrist
band, and are very full below the elbow, band.
Just as many have circular tucks and ' The Monte Carlo waist Is one of the
CHARMING POISE sr REVIVAL
tln In the minuet which Is one continu
ous movement from beginning to end, of
tho great art of bending and rtslijg prop
erly. It Is this which makes It one of the
most charming and beautiful of dances
the dance of ceremony, of politeness, of
chivalry, as It Is called.
Elegance must mark every movement
nnd each turn of tho head and every
glance of the eye has a subtle meaning.
Indeed, It was said. In olden times, that
the history of courtship was contained In
the minuet from the first advanco to the
final surrender In the low courtesy.
The minuet Is always associated In our
minds with lovely woman In patch and
wig. In 1S11. when powder went out of
fashion, so did hoops, and this stately
dance. Jfor was It revelved until ISC.
when Queen Victoria gave a costume ball
In Buckingham Palace.
The New York belle Is giving It a new
vogue. So much. Indeed. Is the minuet
In favor with society folk that every
debutante Is expected to know the dance,
although It cannot be said, as formerly,
that dancing the minuet Is the crucial test
to a rosebud Just entering society.
Of the debutantes of this season. Miss
Jean Held, daughter of Mr. and Mrs.
Wbltelaw Reld, Is a charming minuet
dancer.
Other debutante devotees of this meas
ure are the great heiresses. Miss May
Goelet MUs Nora Isclln. the Misses
Gladys and Beatrice Mills, Miss Fred erica
Vanderbllt-Webb. Miss Alice Roosevelt
1 and her cousin. Miss Dorthy Roosevelt
the Misses Evelyn and Jessie Sloane and
Miss Marlon Fish, daughter of Mr. and i
Roosevelt" waist and Its sheath sleeve.
the left foot Is carried back to the rear
of the right foot At the same time the
knees arc bent and the body carried back
ward while executing the movements. Tho
curtsy Is completed by tho lady facing
her partner.
When making a curtsy to a gentle
man at the right tho first movement is
made with the left foot The movements,
both bending and rising, are made slowly
and with as stately a grace as one can
command.
Another dance In great favor In the
Smart salons Is the graceful pavane, an
eld measure revived for the sako of Its
picturesquo effects. It was much in vogue
In the 15th and 16th centuries. The men
always wore swords that was tho tlmo
when a, sword was part of a man and no
more in his way than his right arm. The
women wore long trains, to simulate the
peacock's talL The word pavane 13 de
rived from pavo a peacock.
It Is Emlle MIchelet who, 'In speaking
of this old dance, adds: "It Is necessary
that those who dance It bo endowed with
baeuty." This Is all easily arranged,
for maids and matrons, arrayed In filmy
diaphanous ball gowns, are .beautiful, and
the men It Is the men abovo all who add
the touch of plcturesqueness to the scene,
In caps adorned with long plumes, velvet
capes, embroidered with gold and precious
stones, and swords at their sides, like the
gay cavaliers of Louis XIVs time.
KATIIERINE MORTON".
(Coprrlsnted, 1003.)
Scalloped Oysters.
Butter a rather deep pudding dish and
cover tho bottom with a thin layer of
cracker crumbs. Season with salt and
pepper and bits of butter. Oyer this place
a layer of oysters, which have been rinsed
In cold water and drained, and season also
with salt, pepper and butter. Then repeat
the cracker crumbs and oysters until the
ill.h la ...pin full liivlnf thn nnimlu TV 1 f i
buttcr on top 0.er all nour the julce ot
the oysters, with a cup ot cream or milk
heated. If milk is used more butter will
bo required. Bako a half hour or more,
covered. In a hot oven. When nearly done
uncover and brown.
The sweeping courtesy of the mlnnet.
Hemstitching: and Mexican
fashionable new styles that appears In
sheer and soft materials. It has wide
pleats across the front. In bolero style.
COLOR RUNS RIOT IN SUMMER FINERY
BODICES CUT LOW IN THE NECK (EVEN THE BABIES') "WILL BE THE RAGE.
NEAT WASH FROCKS MADE OF COLORED CHAMBRAYS.
BLEST Is the woman who can afford
the airy fineries which aro being
worn at the Southern resorts Just
now. For, even though she may not be
ablo to winter in the land of sunshine,
these light and dainty things will come in
handy a little later on for Summer wear.
As these textures for hot weather wear
show the novelties which later on may
not bs found at all. and since, like the
premieres of Spring, models are now
smiling from every shop window. It is
an excellent time to do your Summer
buying.
Maids who love transparent frocks and
bodices cut out at the neck should be In
th.elr glory. Colors vie with the pink
crane, the coral, the ozalla. Maize, straw,
lemon and sulphur are some of tho yel
lows, while lace never was lace used In
vaster quantities, and never In the his
tory of fashion was It employed In moro
delightful ways.
Every variety known to the mind of
man Is worn, but those which imltato
tho rich crochets mado by the peasants of
Ireland are especially favored. In all
over patterns, entredeux and entire
flounces these are seen in combination
with the thinnest textiles.
Tulle bodices several layers over a silk
foundation are covered with these ele
gant nettings; which are commonly In a
dead white. More fragile dentelles, for
theso laces are of a very durable sort,
appear with organdies, painted muslins,
figured chiffons, and plain and fancy nets
of many sorts, all ot which materials are
used for the Southern frocks.
Some of the laces aro of a most inex
pensive variety, and the experienced may
recognize the 25-cent quality In more than
ono sweet gown. With such tho frock
material Is likewise modest as to price,
but since the making Is tho most Im
portant Item of the costume in the end
It may be anything but cheap.
A batch of dainty toilettes gives excel
lent Ideas for the home dressmaker for
charming designs for Summer.
Maize-colored organdy and white French
lace compose a charming evening frock
designed for a pretty blondo girl. The
trained skirt Is made with a deep Spanish
flounce put on with 10 rows of fine shir
ring. The laco bars It in two rows at
the front one of which points in a deep
V and three at tho back. At the top of
tho Bklrt. which is here gathered full at
tho sides and back, is a novel hip-yoke
ot Uie lace, a piece on the lower part of
the bodice suggesting with this a corset
look.
The baby waist is also gathered full and
cut out at the neck to produce nn'almost
straight line. It is bordered with tho
closely massed shirring, which likewise
shapes a band cuff for the puffed elbow
sleeves. White taffeta silk, cut bias and
folded in shape, forms the belt
Another delicious little evening frock Is
of shimmer-green Bilk muslin and brownish-yellow
lace. Wide shlrrlngs achieve
mo nip yoKe or the skirt a single row an.
peating half-way down. Below this runs
a threading of black velvet slipped
tnrough button-holed openings In the
skirt which a lace flounce, put on with a
gainerea neaatng, nnishes. The eathprprt
bodice is also trimmed with the shlrrlngs
and velvet, and Is less cut out than tho
other. The trimmings form a straight
bertha band, which becoming line Is re
peated at the tops of the puffed sleeves.
Lace cuffs draw these In also Just below
tne eiDow.i
The prettiest feature of this costume Is
a wisp of black tulle used only on tho
waist It Is folded In a light roll, which
surrounds the neck below a narrow lace
gamp, another roll appearing between the
snirnngs 01 uie sleeves.
The effect Is highly artistic and
urrenchy" In the extreme, for with all
their fondness for confections in one tone.
the French are still given to touches of
DiacK.
Curious to relate, the French are attri
buting many of their styles to our coun
try. The decolletage which brings the cut
of the bodice in a straight line about the
shoulders, without a support of any sort
Is called the "American neck." This is
Just now much admired In Paris, as well
as numerous other little wrinkles sup
posed to have been originated by Amer
ican beauty.
For those who must have tho support,
there are chains and straps of various
sorts which suspend th'o bodice from tho
shoulders and do away with tho danger ot
Its slipping ott entirely. These preserve
ilrnTrn-iv orli adorn lavrn vralsts.
and Is usually made with a yoke of lace,
tucks end embroidery.
Another stylish waist Is the Alice
tho straight neck line, which has been
found so enhancing to beautiful shoulders,
and. If chains are employed, they afford
additional opportunity for the gems now
worn In such profusion.
A stunning little dinner bodice is held
on the shoulders by chains of coral and
gold beads. Similar strings are looped In
a decorative way at the front of the waist
which Is 'of dead white chiffon and lace.
The lace Is put on In a straight shoulder
band, with flounces of deep edging at the
top of the sleeves. An edgo of bias coral
velvet, with four pretty bows at the front
Is the neck finish.
Even for the maid In her first 'teens tho
cut of tho evening bodice Is a much-con
sidered matter. She, like her older sisters.
may have all of her shoulders on view,
but cuts more childish in effect are mora
admired.
A dress of plain and embroidered yellow
batiste displays tho neck cut approved for
-oung school girls. This decolletago Is
extremely shallow, showing more of the
shoulders than tho neck. A band of fino
shirring, extending at the shoulders to the
sleeve tops, outlines It Below this, back
and front of the blouse bodice, are bertha
strips of embroidery, between whoso
points aro more shirring. The figured ba
tiste forms tho bodice and top part of
the skirt The flounce and sleeves are of
the plain.
The newest of tho gamp frock3 for
smaller girls, the really llttio tots, are
llkowlse cut round at the neck. Exquis
ite needlework bedeck tho wash materials,
which are preferred for all children under
6 years. Maids of this age will go short
sleeved during tho hotter days of Sum
mer, and dresses for baby boys will have
tho usual bishop sleeves finishing with
only a laco or embroidery cuff-band. In
deed, never were wash garments for small
children simpler, but sheer white ma
r------ ---- ...........t
BERMUDA FROCKS WHICH SUGGEST SUMMER STYLIUS.
--
Importers and manufacturers say that
for plain waists pure Irish linen of old
fashioned weave will be the leading fab
ric In thin waists point Paraguay and
Mexican laco medallions will be very
stylish, while upon silk waists, among
which the pongee and Shlkil varieties
will be most prominent, the leading trtm
lng will be embroidered Oriental bands
and rich Maltese and Spanish lace.
Hemstitching will be seen on nearly
all new waists in conjunction with al
most every other trimming. All the stocks
are round and finished with pretty modifi
cations of the bishop's collar. Ecruo em
broidery In blind patterns upon white
Is one of the newest and prettiest styles,
and clusters of fruit In black and white
embroidery upon colored linen is among
the novelties.
Panel effects will be much In vogue and
appear In many pretty ways In Summer
waists. One of the smartest of these Is
a panel beginning at the belt and widen
ing up the front and ending in a broad
triangle. This Is trimmed on each sldo
of its widest portion with two or three
largo pearl buttons. Another button holds
the point of tho turnover on the stock to
tho upper point of the triangle. This
waist is trimmed down each side of tho
panel and has shoulder straps
Bulgaria furnishes some of tho most
elegant styles for Spring in rich white
and cream wash fabrics, embroidered
heavily In Bulgarian patterns of a sin
gle color or beautifully mingled hues.
Judged by the styles prepared for
them, tho coming Spring and Summer
will be seasons of much fine needlework,
new and artistic fabrics, charming de
signs, and a general trend towards fino
and picturesque apparel. The shirtwaist
will blossom with the flowers of Spring
into greater beauty and adaptability than
terials and a touch of needlework give
them the most elegant air.
Very neat wash frocks for girls and
boys of all ages are mado of colored
chambrays with white piqued bands.
These, in astonishingly big sizes, sell as
cheap as 51.10. and so good and varied are
tho styles that the curse of the ready
made vanishes. Tucked lawn gamps for
them, with collars and cuff-bands of good
embroidery, sell for 40 cents; and since tho
charm of all wash garments depends upon
their neatness, at such prices the supply
of school clothes need not be stinted.
Tho washtub will also make acquaint
ance with such of woman's Summer ward
robe.
Once upon a time light textiles were
almost a crime in the streets of New
York, but today it is otherwise. The
woman who really sins against the world
is she who wears dark, depressing gar
ments in the dog days; and the publio
benefactress la she who lightens them
with raiment suggestive of cooling bever
ages and shadded dells.
The colorings ot tho new wash materi
als, seen amid the snow and winds, aro
almost too cooling. A green and whlto
gingham white satin clover leaves on a
green background tells of tho meadow
and tho purling brook. This was seen in
the uncut shape in a shop window, a wide
whlto lace, apple green ribbon, and a
green gingham parasol going with It.
Keep your eye on the window dressers,
for they know a deal about dresses. They
always put the right things together and
if you follow their combinations you will
never go wrong.
Lilac blue, lilac gray, reseda, ehlmmcr
green a changeable shade which la al
most white at moments and Jonquil yel
low aro more of tho new wash colors.
(Concluded on rase 9.)