28
THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, JANUARY. 18, 1903.
SIMPLE EXERCISES, COLD WATER AND BRISK RUBBING WILL
SECURE THE FASCINATING CHARM
i : :
BEAUTIFUL TH'ROAT ANT) NECK
n ii ii
EAUTY o throat and neck consti
tutes one of the greatest charms
that a woman can possess.
There Is nothing more exquisite than
that line which leads from the tip of the
chin to the bust, unless It be that which
slopes from the nape of the neck to the
shoulders. The latter is often a beauty
which attains its perfect bloom after the
flrat freshness of youth has gone from the
face; a ripe, firm development of neck and
shoulders Is more frequently the prerog
ative of SO than of 20.
So highly does the Frenchman esteem
beauty of throat and neck that for ages
he has been jotting down verses, using
up pounds of paint, and sculpturing Innu
merable white marble figures, to prove
that the fairness of woman lies in a white
neck and the Vonus throat.
He would no more write a heroine down
In one of his yellow-backed novels without
mentioning these beauties than he would
forbear to dilate upon the fact that just
at the base of her throat lies a big dimple.
This he call's "Diana's pool." It Is a
snowy hollow that few but French women
ever possess.
In the days when Greece produced Prax
iteles, when Hellenic culture was at Its
height, and when the Greeks' standard of
beauty, which all the world has since ac
knowledged, was first sat up, the throat
and neck of the Venus de Mllo were
carved. They were wonderfully beautiful
the curves and poise Ideal, the dream
of all true artists and beauty-seekers.
There Is a well-known artist of today
in whose pictures almost invariably ap
pears a female figure so policed as to bring
out most of the charming lines of neck,
throat and shoulders.
He turns his model's back to him and
sketches with only a glimpse of face just
where the curve of cheek breaks to the
fullness of chin; or he puts a world of
coquetry into glances which she gives over
her shoulder.
He delights In the white column of a
Juno, or the clear modeled, fine reserve of
a fugitive nymph, but always he starts
with the back of the neck and the rest
comes as best It may. All must acknowl
edge that there Is a tender grace in the
lines of the back of the neek; there is
even earnestness and aspiration, as the
neck rises, bearing modestly or bearing
proudly, the venturesome head that lifts
Itself so gracefully.
But we must not let rhyme run away
with reason. It is to reason why and
profit thereby that we had best address
ourselves not to sentiment.
If the throat is to attain Its greatest
possibilities it must be exposed as much as
possible to air and light. On no account
wear tight stocks or collars. Often give it
a brisk rub with cold water.
RiA.uxi or tnroat ana necK consu- t - - m m M , - , . . .-, ........ i
m K kUiH UL LAIC btt:alVab .U4llUi3 II
SENSIBLE WRAPS FCTR COLD
THE Inclement weather Is responsible
for a sensible change In street
wraps, the smartest of which are on
the raslan order. The materials, quite
generally impervious to rain, are as stylish
as serviceable. Made three-quarter or
skirt length, the preferred, coats are of
cravenette In the quiet Oxford grays worn
this long while, with here and' there some
effective models In novelty wool.
A becoming coat on this order is in
-shepherd's cloth, a shaggy gray and black
material which somewhat resembles
boucle. The model of the coat is the pre
vailing box shape with skirt flaring wide
ly. The sleeves are flowing and orna
mented with a stitched band and two
black bone buttons, five of which also ap
pear upon the smart shoulder cape. Three
fasten this detail at the chest, and two
joint the pointed ends of the high Medici
collar.
Another long coat with this same easy
looseness, which is required of all wraps
nowadays, is in Oxford gray cravenette,
with black velvet and novelty braid for
ornament. This decoration appears only
in a limited quantity, as the best of such
coats depends mainly upon the cut and a
solid-tailor finish for effect The narrow
bands of the velvet are applied to the
military collar and turn-over cuffs, the
braid joining them with a novel scallop
ing. A scant coachman's cape covers the
shoulders, and the front of the coat is
pressed to hang in heavy pleats.
Covering slightly trained skirts In many
varitles of wool, these three-quarter coats
are worn for shopping and other morning
excursions. They are rarely lined, the
materials being already heavy enough for
warmth, and If a contrasting effect
shows at the inside it is generally because
the stuff is double-faced.
Useful ulsters -in stouter and less pre
tentious materials show the popular Nor
folk girdling at the waist.
Norfolk suits consisting of a short skirt
and a very loose jacket are much liked
for practical wear, and If the throat is
dressed stylishly and a becoming hat is
worn, much of the masculine touch Is
avoided. For, no matter how much the
world'may preach, short skirts and man
nish effects have their drawbacks as well
as their virtues. We may rejoice as we
go our ways that we are not gathering
germs or supplying odd ends for the sport
of wrestling winds, but we must look
pretty as welL Therefore, remember that
it is the elegance and attractiveness of
the accessory which make the Norfolk
suit. With those in rough gray or black
wool, a stole and muff of gray squirrel
are dressy fixings, and if the stole is worn
stock fashion close at the throat, with
the ends crossing at the back of the
neck, the effect will be even more swag
ger. Superior squirrel Is the old name
for this stylish pelt, which the women
who read Godey's in ancient days admired
immensely.
A becoming short jacket is made of
plain cloth with the whole garment in
stitched pleats. This also shows the
Norfolk influence, in that it is belted at
the waist above quite a long skirt. One
smart garment in this model was of gray
satln-flnlshed cloth, with gray and black
braid shaping a stylish frogglng at the
front. "Upon the close cuffs, which fin
ished the full pleated sleeves, was placed
one of the braid ornaments. This coat
also showed a shoulder cape in three lay
ers, with the bottom edges stitched with
black. All tha pleats of the coat were
treated in the same way.
Combinations of velvet, lace and fur
distinguish some" of the reception gowns,
with which it is a fad Just .now to wear
white furs, no matter what the color of
the costume. White fox and ermine sets
are seen on all sides, and the hats going
with them also generally show a touch of
the same effective skins. To get the fur
into the millinery without clumsiness re
quires much coaxing and the most gifted
fingers to boot; and to achieve the light
ness necessary some part of the hat must
be of lace.
A stunning hat with the brim of white
fox and the crown of Byzantine lace a
thin, silky web of great effectiveness
accomplished at every point the require
ments of fashion.
Accompanied by a huge white fox muff
this dazzling headpiece was worn with a
black velvet and lace dress. The lace
was put over white silk and formed a oeep
skirt flounce and. the best part of the
bodice. An edge of black fox, headed by
a band of black velvet ribbon, bordered
the flounce, which was topped by a deeper
band of tho fur. All the body of the
Swaying: the hend sIottIjt
If at all drawn with tiny lines here and
there, try the following treatment dally
for a few weeks:
Wring- a towel out of hot water and hold
It on tile neck for a little while, keeping
waist was of the lace, with deep shoulder
caps falling over puffed velvet sleeves
finished with lace cuffs. White velvet In
a highly ornamental stole trimmed the
front of tha bodice, both this and the
white stock being softened by an edge
of black.
Jetted and spangled laces. In conjunction
with fur and velvet, also appear In elab
orate reception gowns, and some of the
effects of color in them are truly wonder
ful. For example, a black velvet costume,
with insets of black net spangled with
metallic blue, fell over a silk lining with
the reflection of blue steel. Under the
gauzy Insets of a plain velvet gown were
brilliantly flowered linings, the figures of
the Insets breaking and mottling them in
to a blur of color.
aredallions of hand-painted silk, with
frames'of lace, are frequently set In white
cloth costumes Intended for elegant
service. These pictures for one can only
call them pictures display single flowers,
urns with trailing vines, and even Wat
teau figures.
A pair of court lovers in azure satin
garments and rose-garlanded hats danced
over one exqulstlte lace and cloth frock
intended for reception wear. Five of the
pictures, shaping long slender ovals, were
placed in the cloth skirt, with points of
the deep lace flounce running up to frame
them. Four smaller ones ornamented the
lace and cloth bodice, and a narrow rose
garland of the painted satin in detached
flowers between others of lace fell in a
bertha around the shoulders..
This Is a fashion too splendid for the
ordinary world you will say, but please
remember that any novelty which calls
for individual gifts can be turned to eco
nomic account. Nowadays six women
out of even dozen paint to some degree,
and If they cannot do this, flowered silks
RECEPTION GOWN OF BLACK
'bade and forth -vill make the throat
the towel hot by frequently dipping It In
water. Then give a dash of ice-cold water
to the neck. and rub in almond meal.
This should be a panacea for wrinkles,
even of long standing. Wearing a hot
may be cut out and employed in the same
way.
One wise girl who knows the value of
always seeming to be in the swim har
made with her own fingers what she calk
a Watteau bodice.' Made of pale blue
chiffon, she has introduced in this an all
over treatment of lace insets, the pattern
of these stiff baskets overflowing witi
flowers. The flowers she hand-painted la
natural tints, and at the handle of each
basket a lace braid was applied to the
chiffon to form a French bowknot. Pale
pink panne composed the belt and stock
of this daring confection, which Is worn
with a plain white silk skirt with pink and
blue chiffon dust ruffles. It Is for high
dress, of course, for emart dinners, even
ing receptions, etc.
Coming down to more practical toggery,
there are some thin figured wools in tho
market which It pleases Fashion to make
up self-trimmed. Except at the throat and
waist, where a contrasting velvet Is some
times used, rarely ddes a thread of other
trimming appear on these frocks, which
are as swagger as they are inexpensive.
Sometimes the material Is shirred at some
point, sometimes it is tucked, sometimes
pleated. These modest tricks relieve
plainness in skirt and bodice panels, hip
yokes, sleeve caps and yokes. Handsome
buttons in any of the popular designs may
fasten the front of the waist, and with
a chamois undervest and fur stolo the
neat get-up Is ready for any weather.
Pelerine capes and stole bands are the
favorite models for fur shoulder fixings,
but here and there one sees a short cape
of equal attractiveness. A stylish model
has a short back and scalloped fronts
reaching a little below the waist. Tails
attached by the same ornaments which
fasten the front hang over the arms, and
at the throat the cape mounts In a high
collar. Persian lamb, ermine, black fox,
and monkey skin are some of the pelts
VELTOTAXD CHANTILLY LACEu
round and plump.
compress with dry flannel or oil silk out
side to keep in the moisture and warmth
freshens a throat and the voice as well.
Liberal use of cold water makes the flesh
firm If followed by brisk rubbing, and a
WEATHER
used for these shoulder coverings, which,
like all such trappings, should be accom
panied by a muff to match. But whatever
the skin employed, the tails used at the
shoulders or at the front for some of the
capes also display them there are always
of fox. And to Judge by the different
colorings in these, appendages, the fox
! n
Novelty vrool provm, clf-trlmmed;
srray aqulrrel atole.
Is a many-hucd animal, for blue, black,
brown, white and gray tails are seen.
For the coldest weather many women
of rood sense aro discarding petticoats
entirely, stoutly made knickerbockers of
black cloth taking their place. The
knickers button snugly below the knee,
and, though such details admit of little
charm, everything Is done to make them
attractive. Braids arc put in military
stripes at the outside of the lees, and. If
a silk lining is used, it may be In some
brilliant color.
One pair of black cloth knickers had
the silk on the outside (black in this case)
to facilitate the easy drop of the skirt.
At the waist the heavy pleats were In
serted in a bias hip yoke, fitting skin
Chinchilla shoulder cape.
tight. All of the cold-weather trousers
show theso flat yokes, which are neces
sary for the smooth fit of the skirt.
All of tho pattern houses sell the
, knicker patterns. If you buy them ready
made, they are dear 12 the pair, at least.
( MARY DEAN.
Turn the head slowly
satin texture of skin Is also achieved.
Having achieved a white throat. It must
next be made full and round.
In loose attire, with the throat and
shoulders bare, and the arms as free as
BOX SHAPES AND
FEATURES
r
. : i
SWEETMEATS FOR HOME F"ROLICS
EASY TO MAKE FROM RECIPES GATHERED FROM SEVERAL STATES
HEN all else falls, candy-making
will rouse the most apathetic
house party. Young people wax enthusi
astic, . and their elders smile Indulgently
on this harmless amusement. As the best
candy maker Is the heroine of this occa
sion, it is advisable to study these receipts
with care.
Maple Cream Cnndy.
Nowhere are home-made candles more
delicious than in the Green Mountain
State, where maple syrup and maple sugar
are to be found at their best.
For one pound of maple sugar allow one
cupful of milk and one of good rich
cream. Break the sugar into tiny bits
and put all the ingredients in a porcelain
or granite lined kettle and stand over the
fire. Stir constantly as it boils, and when
it hardens upon being dropped Into cold
water, stir In as many chopped butter
nuts as the candy will take up. Turn Into
shallow buttered pans and when bard
break Into convenient pieces. If butter
nuts are not to be obtained, either pecans
or walnuts can be substituted, but by the
use of the butternuts with the maple
sugar a flavor that- is exceptionally rich
and dlelclous is secured.
Old-Fhiihlonea Butter Scotch.
Put two cupfuls of brown sugar, half a
cupful of butter, four tablespoonfuls of
molasses, two of water and two of vinegar
Into a porcelain-lined kettle. Stir over
the fire until the sugar is dissolved, then
boil without stirring until it hardens when
dropped in cold water. Pour Into shallow
buttered pans to cool. "When sufficiently
from aide to aide.
possible, unsightly hollows on each side of
the collar-bone may be filled out by bend
ing the head slowly forward until the chin
touches the neck and then slowly raising
the, head to Its normal position. Repeat
TRIPLE SHOULDER CAPES
KNICKERBOCKERS IN LIEU
firm, mark off the squares, and when
cold break on these lines.
An Excellent Fudge.
Every school girl has a receipt for
fudge, but this one is especially good and
tho result of long experience. To one
quarter of a pound of unsweetened choco
late allow one quarter of a pound of but
ter, one and one-half pounds granulated
sugar, one cup of sweet milk, one tea
spoonful of vanila extract. Break or
scrape all chocolate. Into tiny bits, and
put all tho Ingredients together into a
porcelain-lined kettle or agate kettle.
Stand over tho fire, stir occasionally, and
let boll rapidly until it hardens upon
being dropped Into cold water. Remove
from the fire and stir until It begins to
grain. .Pour immediately Into buttered
pans and when firm and not hard mark off
Into squares. If it Is desired to make It
sugar, beat hard for a few minutes just
before pouring Into the pans. A variation
of this receipt can be made by using
rich, thick cream in place of milk, omit
ting tho butter.
Chocolate Creams.
Tho usual method of making creams at
home Is to prepare an' uncooked cream for
the centers, but what Is known to confec
tioners as fondant Is far richer and more
palatable. To prepare It some care must
be exercised, but if the directions are care
fully followed there should be no ques
tion as to the result. As the fondant can
be made the foundation of candies of sev
eral sorts, it is well to prepare a generous
quantity. Select a perfectly clean agato or
copper kettle and put Into it four cupfuls
of granulated sugar with on cup of rich
these movements many times, 15 or 20
minutes at least.
Again, bend the head backward as far
oa nncuXWa' thn ro !5f to its norm;iI nnal-
tion. Repeat for 20 minutes.
Still again, bend the head backward as
far as possible: then raise to its normal
position and also repeat many times.
Sitting erect, with the head firmly
poised, bend the head sldewlse, first to the
right several times, then to the left. These
exercises may be taken standing or sit
ting, although an erect standing position
near an open window is best.
Sitting or standing quite erect, with the
head upright, slowly roll the head to the
right, to the left and then forward. Re
verse these motions, repeating several
times. This should develop grace and flex
ibility of both throat and neck. To de
crease a double chin, raise the head and
stretch the neck upward as far as possi
ble, until conscious of a pulling sensation
of the muscles of the throat.
There are still other movements which
the zealous devotee should practice now
and then.
Taking a standing position, let the arms
hang relaxed at the side. Raise the shoul
ders as high as possible, then forward,
down and backward until a circle Is
formed. Continue this for a time and
then reverse the motion. Do this every
day for five or ten minutes. If the neck
needs development and rounding out, so
that It may become full and pillar-like.
Again, stand perfectly erect, with the
arms at the sides, life them up vertically.
Inflating the lungs as the arms ascend. At
the same time raise up on the tips of your
toes and throw your head back, at the
same time touching the backs of the
hands overhead. As the arms slowly de
scend, exhale from the lungs.
There Is no danger of enlarging the
cords of the neck by this exercise. Their
size, on the contrary, should be reduced.
As a rule, a lovely neck and shoulders
should be left to speak for themselves.
Oddly enough, women with really fine
necks have the Idea that by ornament or
trinkets they increase, or at least call
attention to, their beauty.
This is a mistake. The gracious lines of
the shoulders and the sweep from the nape
of the neck down the back are broken
and have their value lessened by a neck
lace. However, if one must be worn, let it
be of pearls for a neck of alabaster white
ness, while one less clear In color should
have rubles or emeralds as the most be
coming stones. When the bones at the
base of the throat are too Intrusive they
may be coerced Into submission and con
cealment by a pendant attached to the
necklace.
Character may be determined by the
neck. The shorter and thicker the neck
the stronger the character and the greater
the prospect of health, happiness and long
life. Such, a neck gives an appearance of
power to the head.
A long, thin neck detracts from the size
of the head and enfeebles Its effect. I
the neck curves forward, a yielding dispo
sition Is Indicated; If It curves backward,
a haughty disposition
KATHERINE MORTON.
ARE THE DISTINCTIVE
OF PETTICOATS
cream. Place over the fire and stir until
the sugar Is dissolved, but not a second
longer. When It reaches the boiling point,
add two pinches of baking soda and stir
once; then allow it to boll until it forms
a soft gum when dropped In cold water.
Talce from the fire and allow it to becomo
cool, then stir to a cream. Cover with a
damp linen cloth and stand on Ice until
; me iouowmg aay. in the morning put
j half a pound of unsweetened chocolate in
j a perfectly clean tin basin and stand over
the kettle to melt Form the fondant Into
balls and stand on greased paper. Thrust
I the point of a fork tightly into one at a
time, dip into the chocolate, drain and
return to the buttered paper to become
j cold and Arm.
j Chocolate Caramels.
j To make good, plain caramels, grate
one-quarter of a pound of unsweetened
' chocolate and put it In a granite saucepan.
with halt a cup of milk, one pound of
' brown sugar, two tablesnoonfni nt mo
lasses, two rounded tablespoonfuls of but
ter and s. teaspoonful of vanila. Heat
slowly, stirring constantly until tho choc
olate and sugar are thoroughly dissolved.
Then boll without stirring until a few
drops in a cup of cold water will harden
quickly. Turn Into a greased pan and
when cool mark Into squares with the
back of a knife. For variety, stir a cup
ful of chopped walnuts into the mixture
after removing it from the fire.
Creamed Walnnts.
To prepare these delicious sweets, uso
the fondant already mentioned, flavoring
(Concluded on Page 29.)