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THE SUNDAY QREGOSTIAN, POBTLAND, NOVEMBER 30, i902.
AeeESSORIES OF TV
WOMAN
'S TOILET
STOCKS, BELTS AND NEGLIGEES ARE OF NO
LITTLE IMPORTANCE ff SOME GOOD MODELS
i
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Obc of the elaborate stocks is more easily copied than the severe style.
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Belt Tfltli quaintly shaped tabs
Pink silk negligee lined -with soft wool.
The clerical collar makes a "woman look like a Imtheran parson.
ALONG -with the other extravagances
of the season, stocks and belts,
negligees and all the other acces-1
sorles of a woman's toilette are very ex
pensive. In order to secure novelties, ex
clusive dealers aro having everything em
broidered and .made by hand and embel
lished with rare buttons and buckles and
bits of real lace. This brings up the price
Incredibly and bars everyone except a
very rich -woman from enjoying the chic
things that are so fashionable and so
necessary a part of her -wardrobe.
But clever women have found ways out
of this difficulty as out of others, and
their ingenuity has evolved some charm
ing and original stocks and collars and
belts, often in sets that include cuffs. If
a woman can afford one or two correct
models in stocks, her eye for color and
design will do the rest, and she will be
able to have an ample supply at a com
paratively small cost. In hand-embroidered
stocks the woman of leisure has a
decided advantage, for she counts her
time as nothing in money value. The
work is tedious In 'comparison with the
show It makes, and only the initiated ap
preciate the difference between those and
the more ordinary ready-made articles.
One of the very smartest stocks makes
a woman look a bit like a Lutheran par
son; fact, it has some such clerical name.
It is a severe collar band that fastens in
the back, with two tab ends in front, just
like the linen affair that the abbes and
dominies in old pictures wear. Its style
Is in its simplicity. The young, fresh face
above a stock of this sort has a marked
advantage over every other; It is either
extremely becoming or the reverse.
These stocks must be embroidered or
covered with lace or something which
will applique flat, and it is possible to
make a remarkable variety out of this
one pattern. It is equally good in silk,
linen, muslin or lace, - and In any color
that is becoming. Black in silk or linen
is strikingly pretty ebmroidered in white.
The effect is almost as good, and the
work much less If fine lace or embroidery
applique in whito is sewn flat on the
black foundation. Cuffs that are trimmed
to match the stock are about two and a
half inches wide, are finished on both
edges, and pinned on the outside of the
sleeve. Of course, these are properly
worn with a very simple gown or shirt
waist. Heavy linen in white, embroidered
In white or black or colors, and the same
stuff in black, or some delicate shade
make charming stocks and cuffs.
For a stock to wear with a more elab
orate gown, silk or lace Is best, and the
variety of styles and shapes Is remark
able. There have never been so many,
and it Is because such high-priced talent
and labor is necessary to make the dainty
things that their prices are so high. The
wholo standard of dress has become so
high that fineness of detail and in quality
of materials is the main point, and noth
ing else passes for good dressing.
One of the more elaborate soft stocks is
a genuine economy, for it embellishes the
simples sort of a silk shirtwaist, and
Is a blessing in an emergency. A woman
who Is gowned In a smart cloth, silk,
crepe or velvet long skirt may wear a
silk shirtwaist with a soft fancy stock
to luncheon, the matinee, or Informal en
tertainment in the day time, and feel that
she is at least passably well gowned.
Paradoxical as it sounds, the fanciest
stocks are the easiest fo make, for the
fit need not be as perfect as with the
severely simple ones. The manner of con
structing a useful, pretty one is this:
A piece of lace is laid In slight fold3
over a chiffon collar that exactly fits the
neck, and this, when neatly finished. Is
boned upright with several strlp3 of
feather bone, silk covered, and is made
to hook at the back. In the front, wide
loce is made into a full, graceful jabot
that may extend to the belt, and is made
additionally becoming by a touch of satin
ribbon or velvet, in white or some deli
cate color.
Black velvet ribbon Is sometimes very
effectively combined with white lace, and
that, or whatever second material is used,
may be carried on to the collar to keep
the continuity. No lining except the chif
fon is needed, as the idea is to keep the
collar as lacy and sheer as possible. Tho
lahnt or "phnn" mav hp made of chiffon.
j tulle, or anything suggested by individual
fancy, so long as It is pretty.
I The most marked novelties that have
I not yet been shown in the shops, and
are not likely to become common because
of their unusual character and their
scarcity, are made of old pieces of Chi
nese embroidery. Curious old embroid
ered silk collarettes, made of row upon
row of little embroidered silk tails or tabs,
are cut up and the ends are appliqued
on stocks, while scraps of the embroidery
are worked Into the collars. They are
unique and eccentric in all the old, faded
shades. They are picked up in the curio
and antique shops, especially those in
Paris and London. Only two or three pri
vate haberdashers for women have se
cured them and are using them with suc
cess. For a thoroughly comfortable stock it
13 hard to improve upon those made of
soft black silk or liberty satin, with
ends that tie In a bow, and with which
dainty top collars may be worn.
Novelties In belts are even more strik
ing than the stocks, and almost all are
made with little sash ends, either soft or
seveo. The introduction of the princess
dress this season has largely done away
with belts for dress occasions, but they
are as popular as ever for shirts and short
skirts and for every sort of gown In
which the waist line need3 to be defined.
Absolute novelties are made to fit a
woman's figure girdle fashion, with elastic
in the sides. The point at the back ex
tends upward and In the front below the
waist line, preserving the up-to-date
straight-front shape. Silk, satin, velvet,
kid and leather are all used with equal
success, and are stitched, embroidered or
beaded.
No woman nowadays wishes to be seen
outside her own boudoir in a wrapper, but
the negligee Is Indispensable. A beautiful
model Is made In rose pink silk, with al
ternate stripes of cluny lace, and is lined
with soft, very thin, white wool for
warmth. The model is equally good In
simpler and more serviceable materials.
LILIAN EDGERTON BARRET.
MIDWINTE2R STLjLES SHOW FEW ECCENTRICITIES
LATEST STYLES SO ACCOMMODATING THAT ANY WOMAN
MAY LOOK HER BEST
M1
. IDWINTER styles show a wide
choice in hats and neckwear. In
both the models have lost the ec
centric touches which distinguished them
at tho beginning of the season, and so
much are the looks of the wearer con
sidered that the woman must be plain, in
deed, who cannot be suited.
The broad fiat hats, which. In some
cases, are trimmed in a way to hide to
tally the low crowns, are still prime fa
vorites, but jaunty, side-tilted effects are
pressing them close for popular favor,
while the creeping in of other brim styles
with the old high back-lift seems to Indi
cate that this exaggerated flatness is on
the wane.
Already a concession to becomlngness
is made with these plate-like shapes,
which needed to be pushed so far over
the face that they sometimes revealed
awkward lines at the side-head. They are
now lifted at the back by a crown band
so as to slant them sharply from this
point down to the front. Trimmings of
many sorts overlay the piece and rest
against the hair.
Under-brim trimmings, placed at the
left side of the head, are the beautifying
touches of other hats. Short ostrich
feathers and velvet grapes are favorites
for this purpose. On a big. fiat turban
of bright blue velvet and sable a bunchy
black tip had been employed for the co
quetry, and another, posed above the
crown on the right, balanced. Purple
grapes -used in this way are very beau
tiful on violet velvet turbans, which
may include lace as well as fur In their
make up.
Indeed, never was lace mere used upon
headgear, and In the delicate Blonde and
Blzantine webs, which are superseding
the heavier weaves for hat trimmings,
one finds the most charming deckings.
Especially is this the case when the
fragile laces are cascaded at the back,
which effect, if not the newest in the
world, is still sufficiently in demand to
be considered by the smartest milliners.
Wire hats, covered entirely with these
cobweb laces and trimmed with narrow
edges of sable and crush roses, are
shown by one fashionable house for even
ing wear. These and hats of stouter
laces, fur trimmed, are considered much
more elegant than these with only lace
garnishing.
For morning wear a flat hat of plain
or fancy cloth, with wing or quill trim
mings, is considered a stylish top-piece
for tailor gowns. Such a head covering,
when it is properly made, however, is by
no means cheap. Any price in the 'teens
may be charged for it even if only cloth,
a wisp of velvet and two quills are used.
A firm famous for tailor-made head
gear hts almost the exclusive sale of
these simple hats. The carefulness of
their make and the good taste of the dif
ferent styles account for their costliness.
Fdr fetching styles In both simple and
dressy hats the afternoon parade on th6
most fashionable street In the New
"World, New York's Fifth avenue, is an
admirable object lesson to the woman
who is uncertain whit to buy. The on
looking woman sometimes wonders if the
paraders can all be Princesses, so mag
nificent is the general effect of the show;.
and when they have all settled down In
some fashionable tearoom where 35 cents
will admit even the nonfashionable on
lookershe Is at liberty to pick them to
pieces bit by bit.
At all of these places and In the public
dining-rooms frequented by smartly
dressed women, a charming continuity
between the hat and ths neck covering
Is observed. If the former is one' of the
big flat turbans with bands of sable, as
already described, it is matched by a fur
set in the same skin.
stylish set In Alaska sable, which is
an inexpensive fur, consisted of a flat
collar with long stole ends, and a big un
stuffed muff. Nine fox tails, placed In
groups of three, ornamented the stoles,
and the set was a stunning accompani
ment to a long box coat In pale tan cloth.
Long scarfs of white or black lace, or
gauze of some novel description, are
sometimes placed at the back of a brim
hat with the Intention of .muffling the
throat with the ends. This new dctalL
was lately displayed In pale gray blonde
net, a material which also formed the
outside trimming of the gray felt hat.
Unquestionably the smartest neck adorn
ments of the season are of fur, but since
these now must lie very flat, the rough
Imitation furs are not always good pur
chases. Better every time a minute neck
piece in real skin than three yards of
boa imitation; and if this cannot be man
aged, get the imitation in as small quan
tities as possible.
A neat little neck scarf In an unclassi
fied pelt is a short flat piece, dividing
at the ends into two tails. Reddish
brown, in a very becoming shade, Is the
color of this, and $7 win buy it. Longer
neck scarfs in black bear, in the very
flat shapes, can also be had at reason
able prices.
A fad with all large collars Is to wear
them loosely about the shoulders. Some
times, Indeed, they are disposed In a
manner to suggest tho ancient period
when women wore their scarf and mantilla
c'nds looped over the arms. The effect
Is charming when the shoulder piece is
In pelerine shape, in which quaint cape
style there are many bewitching effects
in lace and chiffon.
Turning from these all-absorbing de
tails to entire CQStumes, there was a cos
tume seen tho other day on a fashionable
street which In charming originality was
perfect. Nothing could have been simpler
than its materials, and nothing could have
been more unpretentious than the model
of the gown whose delicate attractive
ness did not entirely Ignore conventional
ethics.
Deep plum cloth with narrow ribbon vel
vet In the same shade made up this mas
terpiece, with glimpses through a barred
treatment of the new brownish-yellow
lace. In the skirt this barring took a
curving scallop at the sides of an over
drapery. which fell over a plain apron.
The bodice was of the lace covered by a
round Eton of the cloth, -made rich witn
a lace collar and elaborate puffed sleeves.
A novel band of the transparent barring
over the lace also showed on the sleeves,
the tops of which were ornamented by a
cap effect made by the coilar. Shoulder
straps of the velvet ribbon seemed to
support the little Eton at this point, and
the fronts were held together by three
tie strings, which were attached to the
garment by amethyst buttons.
With this went a hat, which one might
describe as "squashy" in shape. A soft
puff of plum velvet with blackish shad
ing shaped a brim rolling slightly away
from the face at each side. The low
broad crown and the fall at the back were
made of satin grape leaves in vivid shade
of green. ,
Taking this unusual style as one ex
ample of the growing taste for Individu
ality it is quite evident to the student of
dress that the best costumed women
think OJlt thplr nwn nlnfl-icc
The time has passed when the dress- I
maker and the milliner may command
everything, and If vthe woman of ele
gant pretention has any aptitude for
dress, she can cultivate the gift to the
highest point.
It should be the duty of tho tasteful
to set the fashions and not to follow
them, even If the venture may at times
require a little courage.
"I am so poor," said a clever New York
girl recently, "that I havo to mako my
own styles." So from materials that
the shops 'mark down ao old-fashioned
she sometimes compounds the bewitching
creations.
A handkerchief bodice that she wears
with a trained skirt In mauve cloth is
'worthy of the best French fingers. This,
with tho aid of a sewing woman at ?1 50
a daj was concocted from three of the
silk handkerchiefs with Persian color
ings that were fashionable for waists sev
eral seasons ago. "Violet, apple-green and
a rich golden-brown are the predominat
ing colors, and the old-fashioned look of
the stuff is hidden by an outlining in
black bebe velvet. Following a very
handsome scrolling, a border of the ma
terial runs completely around the shoul
ders, with a V-polnt back and front. This
border is repeated in a band around the
eleeves. Tho yoke of the waist is. made of
the violet borders of the handkerchiefs,
laid in unstitched tucks. A band of the
scroll work edges the stock, and another
the wide sleeves, which fall short over
puffs of cream lace. There Is also a nar
row tucked vest of this lace, which Is
set off at the throat by a cocky little cra
vat of the silk. MARY DEAN.
CHRISTMAS GIFTS OF PAPER.
Decorators Use the Most Perfect
Specimens in Their Work.
AT THIS season of the year-'tho mak
ing of Christmas presents takea up
much of every woman's time ' and
thought. To the perplexed individual here
Is a suggestion. Nothing is less expensive
than paper, and out of it may be fashioned
many dainty gifts. Lampshades are al
ways acceptable and are easily made, in
spite of the apparent difficulty. Dainty
flowers for use on handkerchief cases,
glove boxes, candy boxes and the like
help to make inexpensive presents very
charming. Tho ease with which they
may be made is as astonishing as the
perfection to which they may be brought
after a little practice.
The making of paper flowers has be-
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come not only an art, but a means of
earning a livelihood as well. From crude
imitations resembling nothing in particu
lar the flowers have come to be repro
ductions so exact that at the distance of
a foot or two they cannot bo distinguished
from the real blossom.
As soon as this perfection was reached
decorators saw their possibilities. In
elaborate decoration part of the work
must often bo done the day before the
event that calls for the display, and for
these occasions' the really artistic paper
flower is in demand. Handsome chrysan
themums, for Instance, sell for 30 cents
apiece, and at this price there is money
in the making of them. But they must
bo exact copies of the natural flower
In this as In other things only the best
succeed, and let it be understood that
the natural flower should bo before the
learner, and that for help she should turn
to It on every occasion.
Every conceivable color is represented
In flower papers, but the beginner needs
few. A quire of white paper, one quire
each of three shades of yellow, one quire
each of rose pink and coral pink, one
of olive green, a pound of stem wire and
a gross of rose leaves will be a sufficient
outfit. If lamp shades are to be made, a
dark red gives a fine effect when placed
over a light. Asido from the paper one
needs a couple of spools of coarse linen
thread, a pot of white paste, a little
cotton batting, a dull knife and a small
cushion nearly filled with bran. This
last Is to curl chrysanthemums on.
Later on a few rose centers, some ca
lyxes and culots for the carnations, and
rubber tubing for covering rose stems
may be Jndulged in. One can even find
thorns ready to glue along the stems.
Pond lilies have special stamens and
pistils, and popples have a natural seed
cup and made pistils.
One thing may bo mentioned as being
a great addition to any scheme of dec
oration, and that is to purchase a good
sized bunch of maidenhair fern and dip
it into a kettle of hot water where an
ounce of beeswax has been melted, lifting
It out slowly. This coats it and preserves
it indefinitely. A spray of this with any
kind of flower adds greatly to its deli
cate beauty.
Without diagrams it is not easy to
teach any one how to make all flowers
of tissue paper, but there are three so
easy to do that simple directions can bo
given, and as the beginner succeeds with
these she will be able to branch out with
others. Lampshades and candle-shades
are far easier to make than one can
Imagine until the work Is tried. It look3
so complicated' that women are afraid to
venture.
To make a chrysanthemum take one
sheet of paper and fold It so that It will
form six-inch squares. Cut these Into
circles, a dozen folds at a time. Then
cut the petals down to within one inch
from the center and' point them as they
are in nature. It requires 12 of these
folds for a medium-sized flower, and 13
for a large one.
Take three of the clipped circles and
place them together on the cushion and
with an instrument like the pointed
handle of a toothbrush begin at the tip of
the petals and bear down hard on the
Instrument, drawing it toward you to the
center. The petals will curl up and be
beautifully veined. Do this until all are
curled.
Take a wire 10 inches long and wind
one end around a bunch of yellow cot
ton so that it is very solid. On this de
pends the solidity of the finished flower.
Then pull the curled circles apart, taking
care not to uncurl them, and punch a hole
in the middle of each. Paste the cotton
all over and string one circle, holding the
flower In the left hand up?ide down and
working the curved petals up against the
cotton. After this no more paste is needed
until the calyx Is put on. String all the
others, working each -gently with tho
hand until the petals all curl inward.
When they are all on. cut a round piece
of olive green paper and notch the edges;
paste the inside and push that up against
(Concluded on Pace SO.)