09
THE SUNDAY OKEQCmiAN, PORTLAND. MAY 26, 1901.
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SHIRT WAISTS AXD SAILOR HATS.
These Articles of Summer Drew
Again Are Popular.
The. dainty shirt waist of sheer lawn or
gandie. China silk and dimity, buttoned up
the back, is an article of Summer dress
which, according to the New York Sun,
asserts its right to popularity on every
hand. It is shown by hundreds in the
shops; is brought over from Paris by the
dressmakers in scores, and is made to or
der in most exclusive designs, if anything
in fashicn can be considered exclusive in
these days.
Some of the simple designs show a
tucked back, a tucked yoke effect in front,
pointing down in the center, and tucks
at the top of the sleeves, forming a point.
The s'eeve Is also tucked in vertical lines
around- the wrist, four or five inches to
form a cuff, having a little full edge di
rectly at the wrist finished with narrow
lace.
Another model shows tucks and narrow
lace insertions set in to form squares,
diamonds or curved -lines either at the
yoke or just below it, and again they are
tucked up a few Inches from the belt In
corselet effect. These dainty waists are
made of pink, blue, yellow and white
lawns ar-d batistes, and In many cases
hand embroidered. - '
The sleeves are tucked up and down to
a little below the elbow, where the full
ness forms a puff above the wristband.
TVHITE SERGE GOWS.
ALL PARIS IS SHOPPING
Women Svrnrmfns to Buy Expensive
Outfits for the Apiironchlngr
Warm Weather Exodus.
PARIS, May 1L The shopping districts
are all agog with life these crtep May
days. Victorias and broughams stand
three deep before the ?hop doors, leav
ing only a small, unobstructed channel
just at the street's center. Riviera
goers are all back in Paris for May and
June, but they really live in anticipation
of another flight, a long. all-Summer's
fiigh. It's a sort of understood fact
now that my lady's mornings are spent at
the couturiere's. A martjr's eMbtence
it la, too, standing hour after hour while
the tedious trying-on process has to be
lived through. It takes so very many
light wash gowns this season to tide the
well-dressed woman over her Summer
campaign. An authority says at least a
dozen more gowns ehould be added to this
Summer's wardrobe of peribhable crea
tions. Energies and bank accounts are
drawn on more heailly this Spring than
heretofore, for the cry is quantity, a great
quantity, of superb quality.
While watching the flitting of these
smart shoppera. one has just the best
opportunity In the world for taking notes
on prevailing fashions. All of Spring's
"innovations" have been passed upon, and
one may readily classify them into suc
cessful or unsuccessful groups. Perhaps
the most striking item Is the conspicuous
absence of the untrimmed, severe, straw
sailor or alpine. All of the shirt-waist
hats are swathed in soft scarfs, which add
greatly to their plcturesqueness, while
detracting not a whit from their air of
chic. For the most part, they are ex
ceeding flat and are worn with a jaunty
little tilt over the left eye.
Preferred for Street "Wear.
Another noticeable departure Is the
preference for taffeta, tailor-made gowns
for street wear. They so persistently
cling to their pristine crispness, and are
fcuch successfud dust shedders that they
have found much fa-vor with shoppers.
One of these gowns that I observed a
pretty, taffeta shopping affair boasted
tucks galore. In fact .the whole costume,
skirt and jacket, presented an entire sur
face of tiny, fluted tucks. The skirt
was cut princess, with Its high corslet
effect topped by a stitched strap of white
taffeta. From under this peeped a tucked
frill of blue taffeta. The bolero of blue
taffeta was fashioned with the tucks de
scribing acute angles at the front and
back. It was finished with stitched straps
of white taffeta that were caught through
dull gold buckles at the bust line and
terminated in rounding tabs. The flaring,
three-quarter length sleeves had a similar
finish of buckles and straps.
One of the smartest of all the morning
hats that marry so well with the taUor
tmilt taffeta gown is made of rough white
straw, with pipings of black velvet out
lining each row of straw. It has a de
cided dip at the front, cocks up at the
back, and has rather a low. beretia
shaped crown. The broad brim is bound
with black velvet, and just at the front
of the crown there are two stiff black
quills piercing the straw. This Is just
the sort of hat that looks well with the
new low coiffure, which, by the way.
slips lower and lower until It now snug
gles close into the nape of the neck.
Another pretty shopping gown thit I
saw flitting in and out among the ehors
on the Due de la Pair was made of drab
pongee silk. The skirt was made with
a broad, box-plaited flounce of the silk,
headed by a band of white taffeta, pow
dered with French knots worked in black
floss. At the back of the skirt, the ful
ness was given by an Inverted box-plait,
with the center of dotted white taffeta.
Yoke Uncle and Front.
The corsage had a pointed yoke, back
and front, Of heavy drab guipure over
white taffeta. Below this there was a
trimming of taffeta bands powdered with
the French knots and outlined with nar
row black velvet ribbon. The close-fitting
sleeves were capped with bands of
the taffeta that had the effect of being a
continuation of those on the corsage.
P-ffs of white mull and cuffs of the gui
rure finished the lower part of the sleeves.
There wae a belt of black velvet ribbons,
wl'h the long ends knotted in groups of
seeral bows.
Just this sort of a gown is the most
pdnrtlve th.ng possible. A decided
change In nbbons gives It altogether an
other afreet. The suburbanite who looks
forward to "day in town" excursions
through the Summer will find one of these
cool pongee gowns the greatest sort of
standby.
One of them that was much tuck6d and
ornamented with motifs of heavy cream
guipure, did duty as a shopping gown !n
the morning. Then the stock and belt
ribbons were of black velvet. Later In
the day it was decked out with turquoise
blue satin ribbon, and ro&e to the occa
sion as a matinee musical gown. In the
evening, embellished with a white tulle
fichu and gold gauze bows, it was worn
with great eclat to the theater.
A, very attractive gown I noted on one
of the choppers this morning was made
of gray blue poplin, with an all-over pat
tern worked in black floss. The skirt had
a yoke and apron of this material. Onto
the yoke was sewed a deep flounce of accordion-plaited,
plain-blue poplin that was
quite a trifle deeper at the back. This
was headed by straps of white taffeta
stitched heavily in black and piped with
black velvet ribbon The straps contin
ued down both sides of the apron, form
ing a series of overlapping tabs, all 'v el
vet bound. '
Decollete Effect.
The corsage had the effect of a decol
lete opening over a plastron of white taf
feta trimmed closely with bands of black
velvet ribbon. This was of the embroid
ered poplin, with the edges finished with
taffeta straps stitched in black. The
straps at the front of the jacket de
scribed a -series of tabs like those at eith
er side of the apron. A strap finish was
ghen to the bottom of the bell-shaped
sleeves that were made of the embroid
ered poplin. The high corselet was of
plaited black gauze.
The combination of blue, white and
black is in high faor just now. Hats,
wraps and gowns all boast this combina
tion, in manifold ways. The smartest
patent leather ties have the upper part
made of blue cloth that is spotted with
tiny white polka dots. One of the new,
dangling watch chains is made up of tur-
Gown of white serge, trimmed with cords of
hunter's green and pe3rl buttons. Shield and
cuffs of white, tucked China silk, stitched with
green.
Irish point lace trims some of the tucked
white waists, two bands encircling the
shoulders in round yoke form or strip
ing the bodice up and down between
groups of tucks.
Very swagger shirt waists are made ot
embroidered linen and white pique, with
colored polka dots, made with a white
lawn sailor collar tucked and piped around
the edge with pique. The cuffs, also
of lawn, are tucked and finished in the
same way. Half-Inch tucks, piped with
colored chambray, form one variety of
, decoration seen on a white linen waist.
The accepted concomitant of the shirt
waist is the sailor hat, but It is hardly
suitable this season for the elaborate
I blouses, and is relegated chiefly to morn
ing wear with the simpler waists of lin
en and madras. However, there is a new
and more dressy shape in ecru straw, the
brim faced with black straw and turned
up in a tiny edge all around. A scarf of
Rumchunda silk is one form of trim
ming, held in place by two gold slides
In front. There is some variety In the
coloring of this style of hat, and black
I velvet, in combination with a bright red
MORNING HAT FOR TAILOR GOWN.
The
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smariert hat of the Meson for -near with tl'c taffeta tailor sown Is a rough whKe
with rlpSngs of Jslack ulv t out In'as each row of straw. Just In front two black
ierce the ttraw of the croo. Ihls l.at locks at:elall ..ell y,Ah the new low colf-
combination in trimming for the white
straw. "When the brims are faced with
blue or pink traw the scarf matches
the tint "as nearly as possible; or here is
a delicate contrast, such as mauve with
blue. """
Another sailor hat with a flat brim
which is narrower, in back than Jn front,
has a broader crown than was worn last
year, and Is trimmed with any of the
small flowers and a rosette of phlffon.
INDIVIDUALITY IN HEADGEAR.
Variety of Styles Ulnrlcs Situation
Among the Milliners.
"Shapes tend to become more and more
varied, says the May Millinery Trade
Review. Each milliner makes up her
own out of braids, piece straw, plateaux
or wired pet, and, therefore, even among
one class of shapes, uniformity Is avoid
ed. Fashion, as we have seen, favors
hats without shaped crowns. Neverthe
less, some of the latest creations in broad
brimmed hats have moderately high
crowns, generally broader at the top,
but sometimes broad both top and bottom
and narrower between. For these hats
any height of crown from the medium
down to a slight convexity, not raising
it above the brim more than an inch in
the center, is admirable.
A very dainty hat with this almost im
perceptible crown made of dull yellow,
fancy braids, has the brim lifted in front
so as to show Its under side
trimmed with three rows of small
pink and white pompon roses. The
outside decoration consists of fancy
lace, the pattern of which is composed
pf incrustations of pale blue and pink
lisse, outlined by dull gold cord. This is
arranged so as to cover the brim entirely
and overlap it a little In front, two oval
brooches set with turquoise fastening it
down at the back.
Turned Up at Side.
Another hat turned up rather more at
the side than In front, with a very low
beret crown, is made of wide white crin
oline, edged with China pink grenue. A
drapery of white tulle, knotted in the
front follows the edge of the brim, a
white 'ostrich feather, fixed In the knot,
sweeps off to the right, while under the
brim on the opposite side is a pink
feather.
A black straw hat ,wlth a very decided
crown Is trimmed with four black feath
ers. In rather a novel fashion; they are
fixed to the center of the crown bysa
round jet buckle and curve forward over,
the front of the brim, which Is bent slight
ly over the brow. On the left is a group
of three deep pink roses.
At the same time the trlcome Is .not
abandoned, but It is made less rigid in
form than hitherto, and has a new rival
In the boat-shaped toque. One of the for
mer, made of bright-red piece straw, has
in each of its three indented curves a
bow of black velvet and a bunch of poppy
buds. One of the boat form is made up
of wide, white chip braids. Into which
narrow black velvet ribbon is interwoven
so as to form a wide check.
Floral Decoration,
This has for decoration two small
bunches of flowers placed symmetrically
on either side of the crown: that on the
right being composed of pinkish white,
may 'be framed In hawthorn leaves, and
the other of crimson-tipped daisies and
grasses. v
Another of the same shape in chestnut
colored straw has a torsade of pale blue
gauze accordeon pleated and then twist
edenriching the top of the crown so as
to be visible above the high brim. This
is knotted rather far back on the right
and then carried over the brim, knotted
again, and fixed to the outer side, the
fringed ends hanging below.
HELP -WIVES BUY HATS.
On Other Hand, Wives Help Hnar
bands Buy Clothes.
A Manhattan milliner, whose shop is
patronized by the fashionable element of
the borough across the river and by
Brooklynltes as well,-says the Brooklyn
Eagle, declares that New York husbands
have displayed more interest in their
wives' headgear this Spring than ever be
fore, judging by the number of them who
accompanied their wives on visits to the
milliner. More than half her customers,
she says, have been accompanied by their
husbands.
The new arrangement was, in many in
stances, to the interest of the milliner,
because if the man liked the hat, he paid
the price that was asked for it and did
not suggest a reduction, as some of the
women were apt to do when alone, even
when they could well afford to pay the
extra price. On the other hand, it takes
more time to sell a hat to a husband and
wife than to the wife alone, because two
tastes must be suited, but It would. seem
that those husbands who went hat hunt
ing with their better halves were deter
mined to be suited since they had to pay
the bills.
In several of the Brooklyn millinery
shops more men accompanying women
have been noticed this Spring than ever
before, and they generally had decided
opinions to express on the hats that were
displayed for admiration and purchase
by their wives. From another city cornea
the information that not a few women
are in the habit of buying their husbands
clothes or at least visiting the tailor
ing establishments and picking out the
cloth to be made up for their husbands,
so that turn about seems fair play In se
lecting clothes by husbands and wives.
And wives even accompany their hus
bands when they go to buy a pair of
shoes, at least one wife did recently ac
cording to the testimony of a Brooklyn
man who declares that he sat next to a
couple Jn a shoe store, and that the
woman actually persuaded the man to
buy a pair of shoes that were obviously
too small for hlro.
STYLES IN NECKWEAR.
Persian Effects Abound in Stocks
Variations in Scarfs.
Persian effects appear in every possible
form of neckwear. Some of the new
stocks in Persian designs take the form
of a deep turn-over collar that opens at
the front. The under portion Is plain, but
the outer consists of specially made ecru
lace, that terminate in tiny points at the
lower edge, through which narrow Per
sian ribbon is run in perpendicular strips
that leave insertion of equal width lace
between at the center. Where it fastens
appear two rows of tiny gold buttons
round which ribbon is laced, then bowed.
Batiste is combined with Persian silk
in another effective style, the transparent
material being overlaid with tiny diagonal
bands and finished with a tie or narrow
ribbon. In more elaborate designs there
are many variations.
Tlje variations in scarfs to wear with
jackets, blouses and Etons are as numer
ous as the stocks. A dainty effect is
gained by Persian colors on a white chif
fon ground. The rich, quiet tones make a
deep border at each end, and a narrow
one alonr each edge.
A novelty Is chiffon with applique flow
ers of the material in white, edged by
their natural colors. A more durable
style, and one that can easily be made,
consists of ribbon, a trifle less than an
inch wide, held by herringbone in em
broidery silk, and finlBhed with a fringe
netted into the edges.
Yellow with black Is a favorite color
combination; all blue is good, all white is
much worn. The length of these scarfs
Is two yards, and six rows of ribbon make
the width. They are passed twice around
and knotted in four-in-hand fashion, or
once, and bowed beneath the chin.
Fads and Fancies.
Art buckles, buttons and brooches are
much In evidence.
Taffeta and velvet ribbons formed into
various lace-like designs ate cleverly
stitched in all over rose3 on'cloth gowns.
Some of the prettiest sleeves show the
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"Dear Mrs. Pixkhamj It affords me great pleasure to tell
you and others the good I have derived from the use of Lydia E.
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can say that your medicine cannot be praised too highly. I shall always
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I know it saved me from the grave.
"I thank you for your kind advice in regard to my health." Mes.
Annie JIetz, Caseyville, Zy.
QpatEiude fop pessovsred health snakes &&& ,
gpoiss hes&MisB Women who seek fflrsa Pinkham's
advice are promptly helped, and they want ail
sick women to know about' ita Mrs Pinkham's
advice is free Hes address is Lynn, Mass
flRS. Wfl. 5T0NE, North Dana, flass., writes:
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am to-day a new -woman. My last doctor told me I would have to go
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I shall always recommend Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetablp Compound,
and hope that my letter may benefit some other poor suffering woman."
Lydia En Pinkham's Vegetable Qompound has
made a constant record of cssres for thirty
yearsa Si acts directly on the female organism
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Inflammation and dlsplacemenisa
MRS. iriFELD, 509 Jefferson Place, Union Hill, N. J., writes:
"Dear Mrs. Pujkham: I have you to thank for my health and
I strength. I have taken your medicine for two. years. Before I began its
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KS IPBl&ff A Wh Gr Owing to the fact that some skeptical
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undersleeve effect only at the elbows,
where tho sleeve is slashed and filled In
with a lace or moussellne puff. Below this,
as well as. above, the sleeve fits closely,
shaping down in a little cuff, which fits
,.. ho Vinnrt ThA straitrht-around wrist
band has lost some of its popularity, and
Instead there is a snapea Dana wun me
becoming flare.
Hairpins, and Jeweled heads are one of
the novelties for hair decoration.
nrv.it. ntmiA crowns are strapped with
bands of white suede cloth by way of nov
elty rather than for practical use.
cnmofhinc- new in underwear is a com
bination garment of finest nainsook, which
supplies the place of corset cover, under
skirt and drawers, and Is especially de
sirable In every way except In price.
There Is nothing In the line of petticoats
more attractive than those which are
made of white lawn batiste and nainsook,
trimmed Tith exquisite embroidery and
lace.
Costly Bedroom Set of Ivory.
"Very wonderful indeed is a set ot bed
room furniture which has lately been de
signed for a Paris elegante.
The four-post bedstead is of curved
ivnre linhnlstered in vellow silk, veiled In
old lace, and the bed posts are topped off
with groups of white ostrich feathers.
A rosary of rock crystal hangs at the
head of the bed. The dressing table is in
ivory and supported on four tusks. It
stands on an ermine rug.
Iden in Paynnola.
Plain parasols of brocaded silks, all of
one color, are one ot" the many varieties
which, the season has to offer. These
have wooden sticks, with knotty head3.
apparently carved to simulate some frealc
of nature. Parasol covers of accordlon
plalted white chiffon, encircled with rows
of black Chantilly insertion, are very ef
fective over a plain white or delicately
tinted under cover.
STYLISH TAFFETA SHOPPING GOWN.
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This chic shopplns sown of blue, hacked taffeta, has a princess skirt, its hlzh coralet topped by a strap of. white.
stitcd taffeta! ThelSero Is finished with stitched straps of white taffeta that are caught through dull-gold buckles.