THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, NOVEMBER 18, 1900.
20
It is
fflzift lull K '
tfS vain EGa Wta
Ijlke Father Used to Make.
Said a younc and tactless husband
To his Inexperienced wife:
"If you should rive up leading
Such a fashionable life.
And deote more time to oooklng
How to mix and when te bake
Then perhaps jou might make pastry
Such as mother used to make,"
And the -wife, reeentinz. answered
(Tor the -norm will turn, you know):
"If you would ele up horses
And a soore of club) or so.
To devote more time to business
"When to buy and what to stake
Then perhaps you might make money
Such as father used to make."
Boston Journal.
TEA GOWNS COMING BACK
was embossed by embroideries of gold
gauze, tufted over the lace flowers and
artistically contrasted with stamens ana
lines of narrow black chenille cord.
The bodice of this gown was entlrery
of the pale blue chiffon, save for a touch
of the embroidered lace which appeared
as a tiny bolero below the yoke and over
the side fronts. The yoke and sleeves
were formed of accordion-pleated chiffon,
the pleats placed laterally, and a little
berthe. formed of a double row of accordion-pleated
frills, formed the yoke.
The lower half of the bodice was of crepe
de chine pleated In the same Inch pleats
of the skirt, and the celnture was formed
of gold ribbon which fell In wide sash
ends down the back.
The evening bodice which also accom
panied the skirt was of a very different
character, being composed almost entirely
of gold and lace, with thick ruchlngs of
narrow chiffon pleatlngs framing the
open square neck.
Point Arab Lnce
The lower half of the waist was formed
of a deep band of point Arab lace, cov
ered with embroideries of gold with
touches of black chenille. This reached
within about four Inches of the top of
the corsage, where several pleated folds
of gold gauze appeared to come out from
under the edge and were draped ovet
a wide, full ruche of pllsses of blue chl
fon. The gold gauze was also folded arounc
the armhole, and each shoulder was
adorned by two gold bows, on the left
shoulder, however, a black velvet rlbbou
being mingled with the gold bow, and
a trailing cluster of blue morning-glories,
tied Into the shoulder, being allowed to
fall upon the bare arm.
Marvel of Grace and Benuty That
FoUow Empire Stjlcs E cnlng
and Itccel-vins Frocks.
NEW YORK, Nov. 12. Now that fash
ion has gone made over empire styles, the
half -forgotten tea gown, once so popu
lar, but of late years rigorously set as4de,
has sprung into prominence once more.
The somewhat scraggy, spirltuelle and
esthetic woman doubtless greets Its re
turn rapturously, but for the compactly
built, athletic woman of the day, who
boasts a fine figure and sturdy form,
these long, trailing gowns seem a trifle
Inappropriate. Yet here they are, fash
ioned In all the moat beguiling fabrics,
adorned with the mo-si fascinating dec
orations, and bidding fair to win their
way to the highest favor.
Naturally enough, these deliciously easy
garments follow strictly in the empire
lines, falling straight from the waist line
to the floor, and they are so very neglige
In appearance as to cause considerable
speculation as to the proper places and
times for their appearance.
Of course, a tea gown has no excuse for
appearing beyond the precincts of the
homo, and many strict expounders of tho
proprieties declare that they ha e no place
bejond the threshold of the bedrooms and
b udolr. The temptation, how over, of ex
ploiting them In the drawing-room may
proo too great to be resisted, as their
splendor and beauty increases.
A Chef d'Ocui re.
Among the Parisian chef d'oeuvres Im
ported for a smart joung matron of social
fame In New York Is an exquisite tea
gown of the palest yellow panne. The
Bhort waist is formed of very open crochet
work in gilt cord, which is studded quite
thickly with tiny rhinestones and pearl
spangles. This little crocheted jacket
Is E.Ipped over a pleated under slip of
palest lemon yellow, the soft folds of
which show In spaces of the open crochev
work. The sleeves, which are of finely
tucked chiffon of the same shade, reach
far ocr the wrist, and are finished in
seeral points of the chiffon, which fall
quite over the knuckles and are edged
by a gilt cord and thick studdings of
pearl and rhlnestone sequins. The long
skirt Is almost fitted to the curves of
the figure, and is of yellow panne, while
a shorter skirt, of pale yellow chiffon,
and somewhat fuller, falls, tunic wise,
within a few Inches of the floor.
This tunic of chiffon is open In front,
where the yellow panne undergown shows
a richly embroidered panel In gold, or
ange and white. A border of white satin
ribbon, embroidered in gold and rhine
stone sequins, accents the outline of the
graceful chiffon tunic, which hangs in
long flowing lines in the back, the em
broidered ribbon again appearing as a
high collar.
Tor Informal tea sipping In the boudoli
this costly creation would find too con
tracted a sphere, and it is not rash to
opine that such gorgeous gowns will soon
be Introduced to the drawing-rooms for
more formal receptions.
Merely n Hatter of Time.
The public eje will shortly grow accus
tomed to the wrapper-ltke style of the
empire m the evening gowns that are to
be worn this season, and the teagowns
will follow safely upoa the heels of the
straight and flowing evening gowns, with
out meeting with a storm of opposition
and disapproval It is well to add, how
ever that never will this gorgeous gown
be In form away from its own hearth
sone Sptaklng of teas and receptions, re
mlrds one of the lovely things that are
r 'w being brought out for afternoons at
rme and on like occasions. These re
ception toilets are something entirely
apart from the afternoon or calling go whs,
and mav be exactly In the style of an
ecnlrg gown except for the inflexible
rule of high neck and long sleeves even
transparent yokes and sleeves of lace 01
giuze on reception gowns Is In doubt
ful form
Crepe de chines, chiffon, gauzes, laces
and mousseltnes are the distinguishing
mirks of these receiving costumes, whose
general effect must be light, frothy ana
perishable, but satin antique, velvets,
brocades and hea-.y silks may be so
furbished up with these filmy trim
mings as to gte the requisite Hght effeot.
The same holds good with evening gowns.
only that, in almost every Instance, their
frothlness is more general and the whole
character of the gown even lighter. The
reviving gowns boast only a slight train.
and with two waists for one skirt, the
sme gown could well do double service
for a dance or an afternoon at home,
Chnrmlnjr Gown.
A charming gown of this description
was of blue crepe de chine, chiffon, ecru
lace and gold. The skirt was of crepe,
entirely pleated la knife pleats an laeh u
width. Log points of point Arab lace,
widening at the top so as to completely
coyer the upper portion of the skirt, fell
the entire length of the skirt, the pleat
inn standiitc out nrettil. as tiu oirtc
narrowed toward the bottom. The lac.l
CAB.E OP THE XA1I.S.
Hott to Improve Their Appearance
and Keep Them &9.
A well-shaped nail Is a gift which ought
to be reverently regarded by the fortun
ate possessor. It requires but the ordi
nary caro which cleanliness demands. A
badly shaped nail must always be a
source of anxiety and care, for not only
Is It to be kept clean, but Its shape
must be altered by patient effort, and
artificial means must be resorted to for
obtaining the appearance of beauty.
A nail brush is a necessity, no matter
what duties may claim the attention.
Even Idle hands cannot escape the dirf
with which the very air Is laden, and
when it settles In the rims of flesh about
Whims in Umbrella Handles.
&&sfa
A unique umbrella handle Is a highly treas
ured trifle bj my lad these daj i. and all sorts
of new destms In fanc handles are coming
to the front that she maj 1 a e a wide choice.
the nails strong measures are needed for
Its removal. Stains which resist soap
and water and the nail brush should be
treated with pumice stone, which, how
ever, must not be used on the nails, or
their smooth surface will be ruined, or
with a piece of lemon.
The shape of the nail depends largely
upon the growth of fleh about it. There
Is a pretty, delicate, half moon at the
base of each nail It is there, even though
j ou have never found it and It should be
kept well In sight. If it has been hiding
neglected beneath Its flesh covering for
years, jou must not expect to bring It
forth in all its beauty by one grand at
tack; It mus b coaxed out by daily ef
fort. The flesh must be gently loosened
and pushed back with a pointed orange
New Ideas in Eelt Clasps.
In this trio or pretty trifles for fastening tho
belt and celnture we hae examrles of "new
art" an enamel of recullarlj rich colors.
These dainty ornaments are worn with gilt
belts or belts of embroidered and beaded suede.
wood stick, a cheap little Implement
without which manicuring would not be
the art it Is.
Comes Easy,
This comes easy after a 18-mlnutes
soaking in warm water, softened with
soap and a few drops of ammonia. When
the ftasfc Is properly subdued, the soak
ing can be limited- to one day a week, al
though the orange wood stick must be
used each morning after the hands bars
been washed and the nails cleaned.
Very particular women clean the nails
after each abltlon; It keeps them In an
immaculate condition.
"But it is such a bother to be always
fussing with one's nails" you object.
Just so. It Is a bother, but so is dress
ing one's hair and changing one's gown"
or any of the other monotonous duties of
life.
A nail should never be longer than
the finger, for it then becomes a nuisance.
It strikes audibly against hard articles,
breaks easily and gathers dirt in two
minutes after passing through the cleans
ing 'process. It Is bad form, also, for
fashion has declared against the long or
pointed nail, and the one which shines
like a Jewel. Professional women have
been the last to give it up, but even
they were nof proof against the mandate
of good taste.
So a rounded nail, following the cucves
of the finger tip, rosy with cleanliness
and polished sufficiently to bring it out
prettily from the surrounding flesh, Is
the mark of good breeding. The high
polish necessary for stage purposes is ob
tained by means which leave no lasting
impressions, like collodion. That gives a
beautiful polish for a short time, and
Is as harmless as milk or water. It Is
applied with a tiny brush and allowed
to dry, which It does almost Instantly.
Implements Required.
A well-made nail file, a pair of curved
blade scissors that will pass successfully
through the hands of the sharpener;
orange wood sticks, a polisher large
enough to do the work without a waste of
strength, a box of nail polish and a Jar
of rose paste, If you wish, are all, says a
writer In the Philadelphia Inquirer, that
the most fastidious woman could desire
with which to keep her nails beautiful.
With the exception of the polisher,
these Instruments will last a lifetime.
The covering of the polisher will wear
out, and If you can afford to replace It
or have it repaired It need not cause jou
a pang of anxiety. But If your purse Is
so slender that you have to turn every
dollar about and view It from all sides
before you spend It, buy a piece of
chamois skjn. fit it over the polisher,
smoothly and neatly, and tie It about
the handle with a stout silk thread. Then
trim the edges into the required length,
cut them into a fine little fringe, and
j our polisher is prepared for a long period
of good and faithful service.
MOROCCO WOMEN.
Enjoy More Liberties Than Other
Mohammedans of Their Sex.
The prevailing style of matrimony In the
Sultanate of Morocco, among the Arabs
as well as the Berbers, Is monogamy.
The very few exceptional casca In which
some wealthy Arab may keep a harem,
only prove the rule. A true Berber, how
ever rich he may be, however high a
position he may hold, never marries
more than one wife.
The ladies of Morocco enjoy more liber
ties than are awarded to women of any
other Islam nation. This difference pre
sumably originated in pre-Mohammedan
times, as the Koran teaches the true be
lieer that woman is an Incomplete crea
ture, whose only aim In life Is animal
comfort and adornment of the body; that
she Is always, without any provocation
whatever, prepared to quarrel and to dis
pute, and that, although she should be
treated with tome indulgence, chastise
ment should bo applied whenever occa
sion required.
The women of Morocco are better sit
uated. There even young, marrlagable
girls are allowed to publicly show them
selves unveiled, and therefore joung men
intent on wedlock are not compelled to
employ mediators, nor does the prospec
tive bridegroom pay an actual purchase
price for the girl he desires, as the sum
which he pays to his future father-in-law
Is merely used for the purchase of
toilet articles and ornaments for the
bride.
That there are among the women of
Morocco, een according to European
ideas, extraordinary beauty is acknowl
edged by the most fastidious connois
seurs of feamle charms. Classically -chiseled
features, whose chief attraction lies
in dark brown, velvety eyes; beautifully
rounded and well-proportioned figures are
among the ordinary sights In the streets
of the City of Morocco
The higher grade of nobility, or the prlv
eleged class of the population of the em
pire Is formed by the Shurfa (plural of
Sheriff), which means descendants of Mo
hammed. They trace their pedigree back
to Fatma Zohra, the prophet's daughter,
and to his uncle. Sidl AH Abl Taleb.
The reigning dynasty of Morocco be
longs to this class. The members of the
Shurfa nobility aro known by the title,
"Sidl," or "Mulel," which is about equiv
alent to the English "Sir " The lower de
gree of nobility Is the Warriors, depend
ents of ancient heroes, notably the Meh
hal, the palladlns of Mohammed.
Notwithstanding the better position by
women in Morocco, nobility is not heredi
tary on the female side, as with some
other Mohammedan tribes, for Instance,
the Tuareg. Thus, should a male com
moner In Morocco marry a woman be
longing to thi Shurfa the offspring would
not be Shurfa. If, however, a Shurfa
Bhould marry a woman belonging to a
class lower than his own, the children
resulting from this union would, under
any clrcumstaces, be Shurfa.
F. VON KETTLER.
How to Mnkc Potponrrl.
To make potpourri, one must gather the
flowers only on a very dry day, In
whioh case they may be used straight
away; otherwise dry them in the sun.
Crush to a powder a small quantity of
musk, storax, gum benzoin, lightly dried
Seville orange peel, coriander seed, cloves,
orris rot, Jamaica peppers, lemon peel,
etc., varjlng the quantities to taste; then
lay the flowers in a Jar, strew them with
crushed bay salt and then with some of
the spice, and repeat these layers as your
stores hold out, mixing them well to
gether. Made thus the potpourri can be
added to as the flowers are ready, keep
ing the spice ready powdered and In an
airtight tin, and adding it and the bay
salt as you add fresh flowers. If the
mixture gets too dry. add more bay salt;
if too wet, mix In more powdered orris
rrot.
A good proportion of flowers Is three
handfuls each of orange blossoms and
clove pinks, two of rosemary and laven
der flowers, one each of bay leaves, lem
on thyme, myrtle and sweet verbena to
every six handfuls of rose leaves. But
jou can use almost any sweet-scented
flowers as long as they are not succulent-
Silver Umbrella Handles.
The newest designs in umbrella han
dles justify extravagance. A black slk
covering and a silver grip is the nicest
combination, for In silver the designs are
unusually pretty. An artlatlcally
wrought caduceus, a figure of Daphno
being metamorphosed into a laurel trte,
a shaft curved and wrought In some
what the shape of a bishop's pastoral
staff are among scores of other equally
interesting designs, all In silver, come to
take the place of the tawdry gilded, Jew
eled, painted porcelain and crystal han
dles, which for the past few seasons have
commanded the greatest popularity.
Jiatn and Fruit Food.
Blanched almonds are the highest kind
of nerve or brain and muscle food, having-
no heat or waste, says a writer in
Good Housekeeping. Walnuts give nerve
or brain food, muscle, heat and waste.
Green water grapes are b ood purifjln--.
Lydia Em
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(PUBLISHED BY PERMISSION.)
"March 15, 1899.
'To MES. PIJNKHAM, Lynn, Mass.:
"Dear Madam: I am suffering from inflammation
of the ovaries and womb, and have been for eighteen
months. I have a continual pain and soreness in my
back and side. I am only free from pain when lying
down or sitting in an easy chair. When I stand I suffer
with severe pain in my side and back. I believe my
troubles were caused by over-work and lifting some
years ago.
"Life is a drag to me, and I sometimes feel like
giving up ever being a well woman ; have become careless
and unconcerned about everything. I am in bed now. I
have had several doctors, but they did me but little good
j-ivuia ej. jriDKnams vegeraoie uomrjound has hn
"recommended to me by a friend, and I have made ut mv mind
to give it fair trial.
"I write this letter with the hope of hearing from you in
regard to my case " Mes. S. J. Watson, Hampton, Va.
103.
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(PUBLISHED BY PERMISSION.)
"November 27, 1899.
"Dear Mrs. Pinkham: I feel it my duty to' acknowledge
to you the benefit that Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Com
pound has done for me.
"I had been suffering with female troubles for some
time, could walk but a short distance, had terrible bearing-
aown pains in Jower part of my bowels, backache, and pain
in ovary. I used your medicine for four months and was so
much better that I could walk three times the distance that
I could before.
"I am to-day in better health than I have been for more
than two years, and I know it is all due to Lydia E. Pink
ham's Vegetable Compound.
"I recommend your advice and medicine to alh women
who suffer." Mrs. S. J. Watson, Hampton, Va.
RSrsm Watson's loiters prove that Mrs Pink'
ham's freo advioo is always forthcoming on
rsquest and that it Is a sure guide to hoalthm
tssgsq letters are hut a drop in the ocean of
evidence proving that lydia Em Pinkham1 's Vege
table Compound CURES the Ills of women.
No other medicine in the world has received such
widespread and unqualified endorsement.
No other medicine has such a record of cures of
female troubles or such hosts of grateful friends.
Do not he persuaded that any other
medicine is Just as good. Any dealer who
suggests something else has no interest in
yourcasea He is seeking a larger profiti
Follow the record of this medicine and remember
that these thousands of cures of women whose letters
are constancy printed in this paper were not brought
aoouc oy "something else," but by
500
be paid to i
obtaining t
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the genuineness of the testimonial letters -ttc are constantly publishing", -we
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rrill show that the a bore testimonials are not genuine or "were published before
twnter's pedal permission. LYDIA E PINKHAM MEDICINE CO , I,Tnn, Mass.
but of little food value. Blue grapes are
feeding and blood purifying, but too rich
for those -who suffer from the liver. To
matoes have higher nerve or brain food
qualities; they are thinning and stimulat
ing. Juicy fruits give more or less nerve
or brain nutriment, and &ome few muscle
food and waste . -
Apples supply the hisher nerve and mus- J
cle food, but do not give staying quali
ties. Prunes afford the highest nerve
or brain food, supply heat and waste, but
are not muscle feeding. Green figs are
excellent food. Dried figs contain nerve
and muscle food, heat and waste.
The great majority of small fresh seed
fruits are laxative Lemons and toma
toes should not be used daily in cold
weather; they have a thinning and cooling
effect. Raisins are stimulating In pro
portion to their quality.
And the Cools Went.
A parrot In a certain house was usually
kept in the dining-room with the family,
but during the Winter was removed to
tha kitchen for greater warmth. When
the cold weather was past, it again
made Its appearance among the family,
whom it amused with the new remarks
it had picked up in the kitchen.
On one occasion, when the bell had
been rung for something, the parrot was
heard remarking from his cage: "Just
listen to that' There she's at It again!"
San Francisco Chronicle.