THE SU2JiAY OBEGONIAN,' PORTLAND, SEPTEMBER. 16, 1900.
25
C IT
FASHIONS
Who's Hurt?
One 'Woman took a. hint from "Man.
And at the came time took his chlrt;
If now lie takes a hint from her
And take her shirt waist, too, who's'hurt?
Shall lie be shamed? Shall "Woman show
Wore courage and more sense than- bet
BInce her shirt doesn't why should his.
Uncovered, shock propriety?
Why should he swelter on, nor dare
To dream that he's for dinner dressed
Until his shirt Is all hut hid
Prom sight beneath a coat and vest?
Must he still like a mummy swathe
Himself to suit Convention's role.
While Woman In "the shirt she took
Prom him contrives to keep so coolT
Twas thuB one mortal queried till
A roasting day, and then he ran
The gauntlet of the cuyers as
Tho bold, unblushing thlrt-walst man.
Boston Globe.
GOLF AND OUTING GOWNS
Bold, Decided Effect sad Florid
Tints Is Fathion'a Decree for
the Autumnal Season.
NEW YORK, Sept. 10 The finest golf
players are never the most heedful -of
golf fashions.
On the Shlnnecock links the other day
Kiss Frances Grlscom, of Philadelphia,
won the women's championship of the
United States, wearing a skirt as short as
the mode of two years ago, and a plain
white shirt waist with sleeves rolled to
the elbow. Her tie was a small cravat
without fluttering ends to distract the
eye, and her hat a rigidly plain sailor.
Miss Margaret Curtis, of Boston, who
was defeated by Miss Grlscom, was pleas
antly conspicuous for the comfortable size
of her sleeves and her rolling: collar,
which allowed free muscular .movement
and arm play.
No woman pbays good golf who plays
for the sake of wearing smart golf
clothes.
Yet at this season even a champion may
well be smart, for Summer's done and
new golfing clothes of some sort must be
provided.
Tho newest skirts which many of the
golfers are adopting are of large plaids
in subdued greens, with a touch of red or
Drown. A skirt of this sort Is kilted on
the sides, and is worn with. a trim coat
cut somewhat after the fashion of a
Norfolk Jacket, but sloping away under
the waist and having scalloped pockets
adorned with brass buttons.
Miss Beatrix Hoyt, for three years
champion golfer. Is wearing on the Au
tumn links a costume of this fashion. Her
coat Is green of quiet tone, her skirt a
plaid of green and red, and her cap a
Tarn o' Shantcr tilted at the left and fin
ished with a broad quill.
Golf suitings of reversible plaids are
less in vogue than last season.. The great
weight of the cloth and its soft texture
cause it to pull out of shape after a
little wearing. Dark blue, brown and
gray serges are now more fashionable,
and for use in September and October
are made in the smartest tailor mode,
with round skirts strapped at the hem
and eased in at .the hips. Sometimes the
bottom finish is about four inches of
stitching.
Tight-Fitting Coats.
New, tight-fitting coats to wear with
such skirts have huge round collars of
stitched linen or embroidery. The pret
tiest of such collars are cut in three,
widening the shoulders and making a
triple cape collar.
For wear later in the season silk or
satin will supplant the linen collar, and
the more elaborate coats will add an edg
ing of ecru embroidery and a serge hem
stitching. A few golf costumes of red serge have
made their appearance. One of these,
which is extremely chic and uncommon.
hns a rather short skirt that is severely
piain except lor lines of black stitching
to represent seams. With this belongs
a little Eton coat turned back with revers
and collar of black, tuoked and stitched.
The favorite golf hats are of a modified
Ladysmlth shape, and aro usually of felt,
with a bright pugaree.
Tho severe red golf coat is no longer
the accepted thing, but there are new
coats for golf, which have a burnous
hood In the back or else a succession of
little oapes. To the mind of the utili
tarian these coats are better adapted
for driving or yachting than for golf, but
when Intended for use away from the
links they are made of three-quarters
length, and often show a- soft sash belt
crossing the back and ending in a knot
and scarf ends at each side of the front.
For the benefit of those fortunates
who remain in the country until settled
cold weather, novel outing costumes for
Autumn are every day appearing. For
these tho favorite colors are blue and
russet greens and brown.
Blue, perhaps, before all other hues.
Dark blues, such as for one or two sea
sons have enjoyed little favor. Navy blue
and Russian blue are the idols of the
moment strong, rich blues that ''know
their minds and are not on bad terms
with the popular gold braids.
Gold buttons, gold braid, gold embroi
deries are used with the deep blue serges
and then to get a conservative outfit,
add black; to get one that is youthful,
add white; to get a chic effect, add red.
Bold, decided effects are the decree of
the moment; the eyo is wearied with the
?ale, pastel tones. Autumn herself is a
oe to watery tints, to hesitations and
questionings; the florid and the strong
are now to have their day.
Blue Tailor Gowns.
Almost half the new tailor gowns are
In blue. One, a severe model in Russian
blue soft serge, has a skirt which is
shirred slightly all around the belt, has
stitched seams and a deeply stitched
hem. The plain, short Eton coat is lined
with white and? fastens with gold but
tons. Ai narrow sash of black taffeta
crosses tho blouse of soft cream-colored
chiffon.
Another dark blue serge dress has an
applied yoke collar of white cloth
stitched in blue. The collar points reach
to the waist, and bands of white cloth
of the same width continue down the
skirt, the long line from yoke to tunic
bottom being broken only by a very nar
row velvet jcirdle. On each side of this
front band are little straps of stitched
cloth fastened with gold buttons. A
stitched band defines the tunic bottom,
and the bodice Test of gold cloth is laid
over Cluny lace.
A third example a traveling dress of
periwinkle blue serge has a skirt
trimmed in yoke and front panel form
with black and gold braid. There Is a
"bolero, which Is edged with the same
braid and shows a scalloped waistcoat of
black satin trimmed with gold buttons;
beneath the waistcoat is a lace vest.
A tailor frock in russet green serge has
a blouse that pouches slightly in front,
after the revived Russian fashion. Three
shoulder capes add chic to the blouse,
each being lined with white satin and
edged with gold braid.
Big gold buttons fasten the blouse and
show an under blouse of ecru laco
threaded with gold. There Is a girdle
of gold tissue that folds around the waist,
and the skirt is finished with narrow
ruffles lined with white and edged with
gold.
Young as is the season, fur fashions
are already well defined. Like laBt Win
ter, this season will be one of combina
tions; that is to say, very few of the fur
garments will be made of one kind of
skin. Otter Jackets will have chinchilla
collars and revers. The new sealskin coats
are almost Invariably made with at least
the revers In a contrasting kind of fur.
. So perfect are the new methods of
dressing) furs that they have become
wonderfully light in weight and are easily
and effectively modeled Into garments
that cling to the figure as smartly as a
tailor gown.
Smart LittleCoat.
A smart little coat that illustrates the
Winter's likings is of sealskin, fitting
as if woven to tho figure. It reaches
only Just below the waist line, where it
Is finished with scallops, edged with
stitched black satin. The pointed re
vers and storm collar are of Russian
sable.
A collarette which shows an odd com
bination of furs has the cape portion made
of moire baby lamb. It Is edged with
stone marten, and the collarette fastens
with frogs made of ermine. It is fin
ished with a high Dlrectorie collar, made
of Persian lamb edged with marten.
A long Empire coat ordered by a
woman of fashion is made of strips of
mink and Russian sable. These strips
are about three inches wide and are so
arranged that they form a point In the
back. This coat has a high standing col
lar of sable, and it is lined throughout
with ermine.
Long, imposing coats are shown made
of black satin-faced cloth, with a deep
square yoke of cream lace over white
satin. Bands of sable outline the yoke,
which is bordered at the bottom with a
soft drapery of white chiffon. Such a
garment has a conspicuously high storm
collar of sable, as well as long sable stole
ends. ELLEN OSBORN,
care every day for six months will give
better results than overcare every day
for a month.
Thin, fragile hair is best cleansed with
the yolk of a fresh egg rubbed In the root
with the fingers, left on 10 mlnutos and
washed off in soft wormwater. The egg
Is nutritive as well as cleansing, and may
be used twice a wek, wiping the hair,
and, .when possible, drying It In the sun.
Then comb, and stroke It with the palm
of the hand, gently artd briskly, fifty to
a hundred times. This stroking will, be
found more beneficial than brushing
dally.
If it .Is possible to have It done, a gen
tle current of electricity applied to the
scalp every day Is excellent fqr weak
hair, and is the noarest thing. to a spe
cific for partial or even entire baldness
that can be obtained. To keep the hair
out of sight as It. ought to be, when it
isn't wanted.
A girl was seen to lift a .sailor hat,
take a handkerchief from the top of her
head and afterward to replace it .under
tho hat. Another girl had a fashion of
tucking hers Inside her dollar, but, after
the mercury .rose above 90, she found
that the cambric seemed too near the
point of dissolution to be of much use
and gave herself up .to .carrying it by
hand.
A woman's husband says that the rea
reasoa dressmakers won't put pockets In
their customers' gowns is because they
are In league with the manufacturers of
handkerchiefs, and that If a statistician
would compile tho figures on the num
ber of handkerchiefs women lose In a
year it would be the biggest computa
tion on record.
frUKNY THINGS FEMININE
What the Paragraphers Have to Say
Aboat Charming Woman.
"William," sho said, "will you do some
thing that Is for your own good?"
"What is It?"
"I want you to give up smoking. You
are simply ruining your health and my
laco curtains.' London Tid-Bits.
The other day a young1 man gavo a rca-
death? This question has been put to a
number of leading New York physicians,
and a majority of them agree that it
does. A prominent doctor who has kept
va record of th deaths among women,
i said: i
"It is one of the mysteries to me, but
true, nevertheless that people with light
hair do not live aa long as brunettes;
Take the death record in. a certain West
ern state since January 1. Out of 354
deaths among women, I know 200 or
more were blondes. Of course, theao
are not all the deaths, but those I know
principally. They meet with more acci
dents, too. I have noticed in my practice
that blondes were more Impulsive and
nervous than brunettes.
"Tako a record of the divorce courts
and watch the women as they come for
separation papers. You will find a ma
jority are blondes. The scandals In so
ciety almost always Implicate blondes.
Taken altogether they seem to be a
rather unhappy and unfortunate lot."
Oar Shirt Waists Abroad.
There probably never has been an arti
cle of women's clothing which has domi
nated so completely the British market as
tho American shirt waist The best shop
keepers this year had heavy stocks of
them A few consignments of these shirt
a
WOMAN
REWAftD FOR HYPOCRISY.
Ske Writes fer Magazines.
Sho belongs to women's clubs, some three or
four:
Sho can speak so broad an "a" it sounds like
"awe";
So her culture is correct
And quite all one should expect.
And she'd patronize The Prophets and The
Law!
Sho poses as a litterateur o late;
Though what she's written nobody can state.
And, somehow, wo cannot ask.
As beneath her smile we bask,
"While her verbal pyrotechnics 'scintillate.
t ,
In society, wherever we Way go,
"We find her quoting Ibsen, Brownlnff. Poo;
Introduced to shining- lights
"Mrs. Fountalns-renn, who writes
For all the leading magazines, you know."
I We might. If we had consciences of flint.
Acnieve a reputation by the hint
That we "write for magazines"
(Which does not, by any means,
Prove the writing gets accepted and In printO
Anna Mathewson in the Juno New Up-
pincott.
FANCY-WORK DIVERSIONS
She If I had known yon swore, I'd never have married you.
He ThlB 13 whatI get for being a hypocrite.
CARE OF THE HAIR.
Hotv to Make It Soft and Glossy sad
Prevent Falling: Out.
It is not perhaps surprising that so
many women have to resort to artificial
means for improving , the' hair, when It Is
considered how very few have any idea
how to take care of the adornment which
nature so generously provides ;to the
majority of women. i
The same treatment, says a writer inj
McCall's Magazine .for October, will not
do for different kinds of hair by any
means. Strong, stiff, naturally moist
hair needs a weekly shampooing and
dally and .nightly brushing; with expos
ure, when possible, to the sun, which Is
a great stimulant to its health. Thin,
soft, dry hair needs tender care, but
with either, the first step towards im
provement Is thorough cleansing of the
scalp and hair.whlch collects dust its en
tire length.
Various alkalies, borax, ammonia, car
bonate of potash, and .washing soda are
used for washing the head, and strong
hair will bear them, but they burn the
life out of thin, dry locks. A great num
ber of hair washes aro entirely too
strong. Soap bark is really better than
almost anything, as it leaves the :halr
luxuriously silky. Instead of flying- like
thistledown. This is the way to prepare
Pour two quarts of boiling water on a
tablespoonful of soap bark; let it cool
till pleasant. Comb the .hair smoothly
irom tne lace; part It, and scrub the
parting with the shampoo brush, which Is
like an exaggerated tooth-. brush, wet
ting the skin well with the decoction. It
lathers well, and the whole head should
be gone over, making .20 or more part
ings, tho hair rinsed In plenty of clear
water, combed and wiped smoothly, not
rubbing ferociously and tangling, which
breaks It.
A smart brushing at night and morn
ing, careful .braiding before sleep, and a
half b.our spent once a month clipping all
from falling, out nothing Is better than
the old-fashioned tincture of sage and
rosemary, which any druggist can pre
pare. To apply lotions to the hair, the scalp
must be clean and well brushed or rubbed
with flannel till the skin Is pink and
stimulated to absorbent action; then wet
It In. various partings with the lotion.
The application should be made nightly.
CARE OF HANDKERCHIEF
'Ways Women Have of Carrying; That
Necessary Adjunct.
Passing the understanding of roan la
the manner In which the average woman
disposes .of her handkerchief or doesn't
dispose of It. Since pockets went out her
purse and handkerchief have caused her
infinite trouble. The amount of mental
and physical energy .that has been wasted
on them would have reformed the world
-if. otherwise concentrated andf alrected
It is all on account of, these trifling ob
jects that a woman doesn't get oft the
car the way a man Insists she.ough't. It
Is for the same' reason often that she
lets her skirts act as a, street sweeper.
The woman who does not carry her
handkerchief In her hand along with her
purse, papers, .a key and yarlous other
more or less essential articles, has wayB
of bestowing it, according to her indl-'
vlduallty. A certain type of woman, says
the New York Press, always puts hers In
her belt, but there are subtypes even In
this classification, and while one tucks
it In neatly, with tho ends forming an at
tractive chou, another stuffs it In a wad,
and still another lets the ends dangle
carelessly. There may be something,
however, In the amount of room that
exists Tinder the belt to account fbr the
way the handkerchief is Inserted.
Some girls have a fashion of sticking
their handkerchiefs Into the front of their
bodice. Others Insert them in their
cuffs. These are usually girls who have
had a glimpse of army folk and dote on
the military. Some women have a pocket
on the inner side of the upper sleeve just
large enough to hold a bit of fine Cam
bric. But if handkerchiefs are. to be
larger this Winter, as the fashion author
ities say, this would. make an unsightly
bulk on the arm
Tho chatelaine 'pocket helps some
women out of the difficulty, but for one
woman who is' devoted to that useful
article there are a dozen who abhor It
and would rather have their handH ln-
1 cumbered forever than to free them by
son for not dancing, the spirit of which
might be made to apply to a good many
failures In life.
"I should like to dance," he said, "and
I should dance, only the music puts m
out and the girl gets In my way." London
Tit-Bits.
t
"I went home Thursday night and found
my wife ill. Symptoms alarming" I dosed
her as best I could Friday morning she
was no better. Felt worried. "Wife dull
and stupid. Ho life in her. Started for
doctor. Struck by happy thought. Turned
back."-Cure completed"
"WhatNwas It?"
"Simple as anything. Just said, 'Too bad
1 Jfl
waists were put on the British market
in the Summer of 1838 and found a ready
sale, for in neatness of fit and novelty of
design they were attractive and surprisingly-superior
In price to blouses of Eng
glish or German make.
In the Spring of 1899 shopkeepers gener
ally gave to dealers In American shirt
waists -what they considered wer$ excep
tionally large orders, but tho Summer de
mand was far greater than anticipated.
One (London merchant had sales of Ameri
can shirt waists amounting to $277,390 50,
and a salesman for a big wholesale nouse
says that two-thirds of his blouse sales
this year have been American.
Of Troussenn Scraps.
Save all the bits of ribbons and silks left
from the making of a trousseau and work
them Into a cover for a sofa pillow
for the bride crazy Tork style. The
"smallest pieces may be used, and a Very
rich effect produced. This makes a ser
viceable cushion, one that is of especial
ose as a headrest, and will be cherished
for its sentimental associations till It is
worn out.
It should be made on the old-fashioned
patchwork pattern of our grand-m6ther
day. Be sure to get In a piece o.. each
sash, of every bow, and a little of the
trimming of each gown, as well as of the
material of which each dress has been
made.
"Crazy-Quilt" Making and Similar
Occupations of Women Front
pays of Penelope
"I am so glad that the fad for crazy
qullts la gone the way of all fads, never
to return. Of all the barbarisms In form
and colors that ever deluded the civil
ized woman, that was the worst."
"Why, Aunt Mary, you made one your
self, and I think It Is just lovely. I never
knew there could be so many different
stitches and queer-shaped pieces."
"Yes, we vied with each other to pro
duce the most grotesquely absurd com
binations. A vivid green piece put a pale
blue one out of countenance; a staring
red insolently overlapped a modest vio
let and all were joined by sprawling
stitches of brilliant yellow, the whole
forming the most gorgeous concatena
tion of color and fabric that the tempora
rily Insane mind of woman could con
ceive. "And, oh! the weeks and months of
valuable time one wasted on those utterly
senseless creations! What frantic effort
after new and startling effects! Women,
hitherto supposed to have a moderate de
gree of sense, contended hotly with their
'crazy-qullt crazy friends to achieve
some design, maniacal beyond belief.
Heart-Bnrning and Enrj.
"There was not a little heart-burning
and envy worked In with the 'herring
bone' and 'feather' .stitches. Friends
often exchanged bits of souvenir work.
Thus Mrs. B. 'hand-painted' a piece of
fine silk for Mrs. X, who f gave, In return.
' '
New Style Fur Coat.
tfca
AUTUMN GIRLS, IN WAMCIflTG DRESS.
forked ends, will ensure a rapid growth
of the hair, if the general health Is good,
without other treatment. If you want a
stimulant, at night rub a little oil of
lavender on the roots of the hair with tho
shampoo brush. Do not irritate the scalp
by hard brushing. Regular care Is .bet
ter than overdoing. Spasms of care do
not atone for weeks of negfect A little
such a .device. Now and thon one sees
a woman In a car stand up and from
the folds In the back of her skirt" tri
umphantly produce a handkerchief. Sho
is of the class of women. wbo believes
in having a place for everything, tho
decree of fashion .regardless.. She
doesn't lose her handkerchief, she knows
where it is when she wants it. and-lt 13
you have to be ill on the last day of
Jones sale, my dear.' She Jumped up
'What!' she cried; 'how stupid of me to
forget.' In five minutes she was up and
dressed and frizzing her hair." '
"Wouldn't it have been cheaper to have
fetched the doctor?"
"I've found since that it would !" Pear
son's Weekly.
"Charley, dear," said young Mrs. Tor
kins, "have you any doubts remaining
about baby's being tho smartest child In
the world?"
"I must confess," he answered, as he
rattled his newspaper rather Irritably.
'that I have seen no proofs of any super
lative intellectual superiority."
"That simply shews you are not observ
ing. Do you remember how you react that
long list of Chinese names last night?"
"Yes "
"Well, baby was trying to talk today,
and it sounded exactly as If he had learned
every one of them by heart!' Washing
ton Evening Star.
A young married lady who moved into
the country from "a city home considered
the keeping of hens as a pleasant and
profltablo duty. As she became more ab
sorbed In the pursuit, her enthusiasm In
creased, and hens and their care were
the favorite subject of her thoughts and
conversation.
During one of her animated, descriptions
of her success a, friend Inquired:
"Are your hens good hens?"
"Oh, yea," she replied in a dellglrted'
tone. JThey haven't laid a bad 6gg yet!"
Buffalo Courier.
How do your folks manage with the
family wash, Glddlngs? We haven't room
In our flat to haag a clothes line."
"Oh! we hang ours In ths kitchen over
night"
"But do the clothe drvt"
.J'Ye?.' "SP wlfe Jta UP a11 n!Gt and fans,
them." Buffalo HCornlng News.
"My wJfe.V boasted tho happy young
Benedict, "Is an open book to me."
"Mine, too," declared the old married
anr !' can't shuther up." Philadel
phia Press.
Harry It was ldnd-of you, old fellow, to
look, ater my girl wbila I was away. Hour
can, I ever repay yC4t?
Fred-Weli; stm owo the livery stable
man.-Snsart Set.
'rMra, OfoJIghtiy, did Mtbi Deepdip- havfr
a fine paper on Uuddlsa.?'
"Indeed she did. I just wish you had
heard her rip him up the back." Indiana
polls Journal. ,
Her mother (Don't-you-flnd Jack Wheel
er rather rough Priscllla?
PrfseHIft Yes, mamma. And yet he says
he shaves every day. Answers.
Mc Call's for October.
McCall's Magazine for October Is a par
ticularly bright and Interesting number,
containing many matters of Interest to
women readers. In Its Teble of Contents,
among other articles may be mentioned:
"How to Take Care of the Hair," "Ideas
for Evening Gowns," "Concerning the
Baby," "Kitchens of Society "Recrea
tions of Famous Actresses." "Politeness
at Home," "How to Make Children Grow."
"Grumbling," 'Salt Baths for Weak
Eyes," "How to Wash Blankets," and
many others.
The Corset-Wnist Man.
Parisian haberdashers are heavily pa
tronized by British and American dandles.
The Frenchman Is not a good tailor, but
he provides the details of men's dress In
perfection. The manufacture of stays
built to set off the masculine figure has
grown to be a big business In Paris, and
one corset-maker there says he has a
book full of waist measures of names of
New York, Chicago, Boston and Phila
delphia men.
Autumn Girl, In Golf Costume.
Bad luck la Blonde; Hatr,
hotograph!c Talk.
'Wm
M Mi
r y
I l ' 'Li
MR Wl
Bummer Girl Do you think yon can tako a
good picture of me?
Does blonde hair hasten a woman's I yoTtatoe SSue. "''
a bit of 'sleazy cottony satin. How dread
ful! Mrs. B. never quite forgave Mrs.
X. To this day, she regards the piece
as a souvenir of her friend's meanness.
"Thus doth the 'eternal feminine' crop
out, even In tho crazy-qullt. The mer
chants hailed .the advent of the craze.
In that It enabled them to work off their
effetely blazing stock of ribbons and silks
on tho Infatuated workers. , And, as to
stitches, my dear! Never, since Eve made
her fig-leaf apron, has the world be
held so many .variations on the original
sewing up."
"The fad passed, and with It our pride
In thequllts. They aro with U3 yet, but
are no longer brought forth and dis
played to all visitors. A new generation
of women has arisen who smile super
ciliously at the 'fearfully and wonderfully
made results of the toll that was so
hard on tthe eyesight."
Here Aunt Mary peered closely at the
"Indian Head" pillow-cover, on which she
was at work, and In order thatshe might
set her stitcher "just so."
I loqked at her, amusingly, 'as she la
boriously outlined the atrocity In green
and red, and wondered If tho crudely be-
feathered chief looked -less Insane than
the Orlental-hued quilt she decried.
Always the Same.
Ah, welll From the time of the web
knitting and web-ravellng Penelope down
or, up to date, women have always had
fancy work of soma kind for their lels-
uro nours. And, to be sure, a pretty
girl, or her mother, never. looks more at
tractive than when working out a problem
In lace or embroidery. ,
I once heard a man say that, to his
mind, a woman .never appears to better
advantage than when. In neat attire,
topped by a white apron, she piles the
crochet hook with nimble fingers a .truly
man Idea, and not a bad one.
A collection of samples of the .various
kinds of fancy work that have obtained
In our own country during its nearly a
century ana a quarter of lndenendent ex-
lstence, would be an Interesting exhibit.
one can easily recall many kinds that
havo flourished and faded during half
a lifetime. .
Lard-board mottoes, worked In "swear
ing" colors, used to decorate the "best
room." Worked In cross-3tltch, "God
Bless Our Home!" graced many a wall
that echoed to family strife. To set the
needle in those tiny holes Is such cye
stralning work .that one wonders why it
was ever introduced In the kindergartens;
paper-weaving is little better.
Canvas and Wool Horrors.
At one time, In the history of our glo
rious" Republic, no home could hope to
be "smart" without several canvas and
wool dogs or lions, stretched firmly over
footstools. Impossible roses bloomed
flatly in the same materials.
.Afterward came and went dlrty-Iook-ing
macrema fringe for mantels; also.
"JK.ensington" stories, standing painfully
ly improbable cattails, and there wera
other things of tho ilk not classified by
tho botanists. .And so oit One might
note a procession, beginning with the
sampler of "good old Colonial times," and
ending with the aforesaid "Indian-head"
pillow-cover. ,
And. really, the last-named can hold 1(3
own with any of Its forbears,, as to ab
surdity. The modern fancy-worker has no
warrant for turning up her pretty noad
at a sampler, with Its rectangular house,
Its avenue of stiff pine trees. Its alphabet
and numerals, and lastly, the name oC
the demure damosel who jet .the stitches
so primly.
In New England Homes.
Some years since I spent a Winter fat
the old New England town of Randolph
Mass. the home and field of work of
Mary E. Wllklns.
Among the many ancient relics shown
to mo in those quaint homes, none wera
exhibited with more pride, and none Inter
ested me more than the faded samplers.
They exhaled an odor of dried lavender,
and seemed to hold, In their stiff, uncom
promising lines, the very essence of the
home-life of those stiff-necked Puritans
of old. MARY C. BELL.
SERVIAN MARRIAGE CUSTOMS.
Curious Observances at the Recent
Wedding of Alexander.
The wedding of King Alexander of Ser'
via with Frau Druga Maachln was cele
brated with a minute observance of all
thoso traditional ceremonies and customs
exacted by the Orthodox Greek Church on
such occasions. Even in the way in which
the bride was conducted Into the Bride
grooms' house no detail of ancient Ser
vian custom was omitted.
As the Queen descended front the car
riage at the main entrance, a piece of
white linen, woven In the country, was
spread upon the ground. This was rolled
up after the bride had crossed it. in or
der that no other foot might tread upon
It. At the entrance her aunt presented a
sieve of wheat-corn, of which the Queen
took three handfuls. threw the corn over
her head, and then emptied the sieve up
on the ground.
Upon the threshold the bride was pre
sented with a plate of bonbons, one of
which she placed between her lips, the
other half of which was bitten off by
the King. The bridegroom then took Into
his arms a new-born boy, kissed him, and
laid him in the arms of the Queen, who,
after kissing him three times and rais
ing him hjgh above her head, restored
him to his mother wtlh a present of a
new shirt. This child is called "Nakon-
yese, "the most essential." the symbolic
act signifying that, for a newly-mar-rled
pair, the most necessary thing to
have in the house Is a child. For this
special ceremony the minister, Lazar
Popovlcs, lent his new-born son.
The scattered corn denotes that the
brldo brings joy and prosperity Into her
new home, and the divided bonbon that
no bitterness shall divide them. After
all these ceremonies the Queen still stood
outside, nor could she enter the konak
until she had placed two loaves of bread
beneath her arms and taken a bottle of
wine Into her hands. With these em
blems she crossed, at length, the thres
hold of her future home. At the llrst
meal of the newly-married pair bread
and wine must be taken by both to de
note that thenceforward all they have
shall be equally divided between them,
and that their married life shall be
passed In unity and fidelity.
ATE EVERY TWO HOURS.
Woman of Rank Who Prolonged Her
Life- by the Practice.
Lady Mary Saurln, who died In Lon
don the other day. having nearly com
pleted her hundredth year, had, during
her whole life, an unvarying habit of
eating something every two hours. She
never In any circumstances departed
from this custom, and to It she ascribed
her good health and longevity.
When traveling or going about Lon
don she carried a little bag of sand
wiches with her, and at the expiration
of every two hours she would open her
bag and eat one or two. Up to the end
of her life the mind of this marvelous
old lady seemed strong and active, and
her memory was remarkable.
At the time of the battle of Waterloo
her father. Lord Harrowby, held of
fice as President of the .Council, and
his town house wa3 in Grosvenor Square.
Lady Mary has often related the history
of events at that critical moment and
recounted vivid recollections of the re
joicings and Illuminations In London
when the news of the great victory was
received. She would also tell tales of
the days of the Chartists and the Cato
street conspiracy. This was a deep-laid
plot to assassinate the entire Govern
ment of the day, and the blow was ar
ranged to be struck when the members of
the Cabinet were assembled at dinner
at the house of her father Lord Harrow
by la GrosVenor Square.
Civilization Beautifies "Women.
Civilization, says the Ledgen Monthly,
makes women more beautiful than all tho
barbaric arts and resources of primitive
life, and it Is because of a misconception
of conditions that any ascribe to the hab
its of seml-clvlllzed people a cause of any
special beauty among their women. Prim
itive life Is harder and more difficult for
womankind than that found in highly
civilized lands. The outdoor life of the
former does not entirely counterbalance
the evils of unsanitary surroundings, hard,
drudgery and lack of intellectual asso
ciations. It Is only modern civilized na
tions that have given to woman her true
place In the scheme of humanity. Her
emancipation from servitude and un
pleasant conditions have yielded more di
rect benefits than any other transforma
tion of her existence.
Q.neen Helena's Qulclc Wit.
When tho new Queen of Italy. Helena,
came as Crown Princess to the court of
Rome, one of the ladles of the court at
tempted to patronize her, and remarked:
"Your Royal Highness must find court
life a great change."
Although Montenegro Is but a pocket
edition of a country, and Helena's fath
er, tha reigning Prince, Is as poor na
Job's turkey, the Crown Princess remem
bered that her family and nation wero
among- the oldest In Europe, while the
Kingdom of Italy Is a thing of yesterday,
and replied:
"On tha contrary. I think everything 13
done very well hero, considering how
new it all Is."
High Collars Lengthen Necks.
A well-known American portrait painter
asserts that the necks of the women of
this country are becoming longer and
more slender, year by year, and he holda
the high collar responsible. Another man,
also, an artist recently made some com
parisons botween the lengths of women's
necks painted 10 years ago, fiv years
ago and now, and claims that thu r-er-ago
feminine neck has elongated alnrosfr
to tho extent of an Inch during the p4t
decade.
Christina's Wealth.
Queen Christina of Spain Is In the habit
of sending a confidential messenger all
the way from Madrid to London for the
purpose of depositing hdr wealth, which
she keeps in the Bank of England. Al
though Queen Christina is entitled to
draw from the Spanish Treasury 520H0GQ a
year, she has not, owing- to the strait-
hiiph rirniTTTtrnTtrflo v Mnnm - &
on one leg-tho right In a march of hleh- I cent of this money. '