THE SUNDAY ' OBEGGNIAN, ; POKTLAKD, AUGUST '26, 1900.
25
"
Her New Hat.
- picture of Innocence! That'B how she
looked.
But there was a jwJco on her hettd
CI the people ceua see it "Three.sevcnty
nlne, deduced frent 3," it read.
Philadelphia Press.
IRIS MILLINERS ALERT
Incrc-ued Tariff Duties nod Falling;
Off in American Trade Force
Earlj- Antnnrn Stjles.
NEW YORK. Aug. 23. The exhibition
ind the American tariff have had a mar
l-clous effect on Parisian dressmakers.
Never until this Summer has an Au
tumn model been shown by any oC the
rcat Parisian houses before August 15,
md few. Indeed, out of the hordes ot
Yankee dressmakers who cross the
jcean every Summer have returned be
fore the 1st of September -frith valuable
Sdeas
Autumn fashions. It Is true, are shown
in New York before July Is ended be-
tween-seasons freaks, designed to catch
the eye of the buyer from Wayback;
they carry with them no authority.
But this Summer is an exception.
Frightened by the increased customs
luties on gowns Imported into this coun
try and i the consequent falling off In,
American trade, Paris has seized the op
portunity offered by the crowd of Amerl-
in visitors to the Exhibition and has
fbrought out to tempt their eyes her new-
t and costliest and most beautiful.
The great show is a revel of clothes.
Society women and dressmakers have
nought and sketched and sketched and
fbought, and the first fruits of all this
jmmaglng and ransacking are already
fworn at Newport and displayed In New
lYork shop windows.
The Exhibition hurried the season. But
itj has worked no revolution.
Radical changes in fashion are apt to
Icome In hard times, or when for any
treason women are not buying freely. To-
ay women need no spur to goad them
to extravagance, and. accordingly, tho
autumn offerings are beautiful, elaborate
md fragile, but quite In line with recent
precedent.
The wise say that fashion Is hesitating.
iShall the next plunge be toward empire
istles or the hoopsklrt?
Skirts are growing fuller. What is to
so done with the extra material now ar
ranged In plaits at the back of the gown?
gShsul it be disposed in the flowing line?
31 the pseudo-classic garments In which
posephlne delighted, or shall it be ex
Ipanded to balloon-like proportions over
i crinoline?
i Paris Wants noops.
Everybody knows what Paris wishes.
For years she has coaxed and threatened
land pleaded. She gave us eelskln skirts
fbecause we refused hoops; now she hopes
ito see the pendulum swing of its own
iaecurd to the opposite extreme.
i'aris hates to refuse a dare: and wom
en have dared her to burden them with
l-oeps. But Paris is sometimes discreet.
land so she hesitates.
The Autumn fashions are noncommittal;
Ithey are worthy of a political party with
la platform to enunciate. They say every
gthlrg and nothing. They swing around
Sthe cjrcle. They promise all thlngb to all
Iwomcn. They leave the way clear for I
la move in any direction. 1
Among the new displays there are
fetucked skirts, such as we have seen all j
pummcr; mere are empire aresses tor
all who will wear them, and there are
Igrotesquely, bunohlly draped skirts, such
las were worn in the early '70s or a little
gtoefore that, when hoopsklrts and tho
gblg bustles that succeeded them were in
fsenlle decay.
An extreme example of the draped dress
t w as lately made for a prominent woman
of fashion. It consisted of a lace skirt
with an overdress of a delicate green
rr.d white silk, swathed across the front
and caught at the left side at about the
llcvcl of the knees with an enormous
Ib'ack velvet rosette. The bodice, decked
Svlth a fichu of chiffon and lace, had a
ftlrallar rosette on" the left shoulder.
Some of the best of the empire dresses
lyomlse to be verv becoming to slight
women, ,For her daughter, Marlon, who
!l ns this week made her debut in society
fat Newport, Mrs. Siuyv esant Fish has had
designed an empire dress which has a
IfrMrt of pink satin widening from about
p a.f -way down its length Into a short
Strain. Over this comes a tunic of pink
Scirplre tulle embroidered with small roses
land having a. deop embroidered b6rder.
Tho lower part of tho satin skirt is
pc.'.ed with cream white tulle crossing in
izibenges and edged with a wide ruche.
IT! e fchort bodice is confined by a scarf
lef yellow satin hibbon which crosses the
lb som "en fichu" and is fastened on the
J-t sldo 'by a large rosette. The corsagefi
iwrieh is quite square, is composed of a
I: ko of gold lace hold up by half traces
Kf b'ack velvet ribbon. The arms are
Ircled by a drapery of cream-colored
r"o which leaves the shoulders exposed.
Of Primrose Sntln.
Mrs. rish herself has lately worn an
jtrrplre dress of primrose satin, lined with
rise. The skirt formed a tight tunic
jior about half its length, then widened
Ito the bottom. It was cut tip into long.
t inted indentations over an underskirt
cited in the form of a fan. Round the
t- Mentations there was a border of gold
sari silver embroidery.
uao low, short bodice was composed of
rffs of mousseline de sole over a velvet
.rapery. The sleeves were double nuffs
let yellow velvet, mixed with pink mous-
F-ae ce sole. The waistband was of
gecrtse satin, very wide, embroidered with
IchcnUle. silver and gold.
Miss Elsie French, the fiancee of Alfred
"ar.derbilt, is another young woman who
:as given countenance to the emnlre re-
ivivnl. An evening dress in which she has
icrpcarcd at J-enox is composed of pink
Ic-cpe do chine, embroidered about the
St-'ttom of tho skirt with pink silk. The
--per aklrt, which is bordered in the
no manner, forms a peplura. which la
-3l?nred Into a train. The short bodice
- -ut square at the neck and turns over
j!n a bertha of frilled jmd embroidered
russellne de sole. The corsage is kept
-n. tte shoulders by a chain of pearls,
i-.l there is a waistband of gold tissue,
pccrl embroidered, There are long sleeves
?f moussollHe de sole.
But tmor.r the Suatcor and coxlv Au
tumn dresses the majority are less ex
treme. A pretty pale blue and white
spotted muslin frock tnaz appeared one
morning this week at the Newport Casino
had a most attractive arrangement of
guipure trimmings, at the top of the
flounce, round the waist and on the
bodice. The back of the skirt was per
pendicularly tucked, the front extremely
well cut, and the parasol was planned to
match.
"With a pretty crinoline hat trimmed
with feathers and roses the costume was
decidedly pleasing.
A pleated dress sketched on the same
occasion was made of the most silky
lightweight black cashmere. It was
trimmed on the hips and above the hem
with an applique of cream lace; It had
undersloevcs. of cream-colored chiffon,
and a fichu of muslin, with the frills
edged with cream-colored baby ribbon.
Round the waist went a high belt of black
satin, and the yoke piece was made again
of the lace. The great charm of this al
most unique frock Jay in the fichu.
An Autumnal Costume.
A more Autumnal dress is of striped
and figured cloth in beige and blue. The
skirt Is of noncommittal cut, and the
bodice a short coat fastening at the
waist with one huge button. There is a
large square lace collar turning hack
from a vest of plaited blue rooussellne.
Among short coats for Autumn Is one
of beige-colored cloth with stitched re
vers of white taffeta, A turned-back piece
of silk gives a hoodlike effect about
the shoulders. The buttons are of enamel
and thjs cuffs show agam the silk to
match the collar.
Early Autumn hats are of rough black
straw in the graceful "Tricaraer" shapes.
Their only trimming consists of pom
pons of white, black and blue.
"Vast numbers of empire hats are
shown. They come in many materials,
including felt, fur and velvet, and are
trimmed with floating ostrich plumes.
Then there are wide-brimmed capellnes
to be worn at the back of the head, and
brood, fit toques designed to show the
hair. Corded white panne Is used for
bewitching berets, which are trimmed
with wreaths of faintest pink silk and
pink velvet roses.
"White velvet, plush or panne Is used
for some of the loveliest toques, and
while these often have a touch of black,
the chjc thing is to add green by way
of contrast.
Richly colored ivy leaves apd Autumn
flowers are prominent among the trim
mings, but the crop of fruit in the mil
linery orchard Is about exhausted.
Gold tinsel hatbands testify to the con
tinuance of the military spirit. Perhaps
the oddest new departure is the applica
tion of the veil, which, Instead of cover
ing the face, is now drawn up over the
brim and garnitures, forming soft, trans
parent folds ELLEN OSBORN.
ERA OF THE GEORGIAN BED.
Mabosrany Fonr-Foster and Feather
Beds All the Vogne.
The science and the practice of bed-
making have undergone a radical change
In the past few years. In the newly
renovated and decorated houses no throne
of state could be more Impressive, more
luxurious and more radical in its depar
ture from the hitherto accepted laws of
hygiene than the bed a lucky guest Is
Invited to sleep in.
The model just now in the houses
where the antique mahogany era sweeps
everything before It is the Georgian bed.
Three could sleep, with an abundance of
stretching Toom. in the area enclosed by
the four massive caryen posts of one of
these big beds, and three, mattresses are
required to bring the sleeping platform
up to the required height One is of hair,
one of 'cotton, and in "Winter, on top of
these, reposes a mighty tick stuffed full
of the best white goose feathers.
"When these requirements are fulfilled
the Georgian bed is dressed with an at
tention to detail and elegance that gives
It an appearance hardly less sumptuous
than the tent of an Indian Rajah. Old
brocades edged with bullion fringe forming
the hangings and counterpane Is one stylo
of dressing a bed.
Feather-Bed Cnre.
For half a century, says the San Fran
cisco Examiner, the feather bed has been
looked upon very coldly by our leaders
In hygiene, but recently both with regard
to tho hangings and the feather mat
tresses, a change of mind has come, and
delicate, nervous, neuralgic, rheumatic
women, and particularly elderly persons
and those afflicted with Insomnia, have
been recommended to the feather-bed
cur.
KJueen Victoria Is one of the best proofs
of the efficacy of the feather he'd, for
where Her Majesty goes her big tick full
of feathers in its leather traveling case
COAT OF BEIGE CLOTH EVENING
goes too, and the curtains are always
drawn about the head of her bed to shut
off any treacherous little draughts.
The Queen and her doctors believe that
the proper way to sleep in "Winter is in a
cold room luxuriously lapped in a nest of
feathers which preserves all the heat of
the body and necessitates in the coldest
weather a coverinfr of but. one pair of
blankets and an eiderdown quilt.
"With the coming of the Eighteenth
century type of wooden bed into fashion
again the feather mattress was success
fully Introduced, and now there aro num
bers of women who have not only earned
their virtues, but, like the Queen, travel
about with their beds done up In leather
cases. Some of the rheumatics and suf
ferers from cold extremities have pro
nounced themselves immune fom their
grievoua afflictions when luxuriating
among the feathers.
Feather Beds for Children.
Feather beds are also coming Into use
In nurseries; and. though for children the
Georgian four-poster is not yet the fash
ion, tho gayest beds are made to fit in
with the schemes of nursery decoration.
Charmingly carved and painted wooden
beds aro newly Introduced, or they have
brass or sometimes silver let into the dark
wood in appropriate scenes and Inscrip
tions, On the headboard of a light-colored
bed will, for example, be painted a night
scene of clouds across the moon and a
flight of owl3. On the footboard 3. long
line of carolling cocks greeting the sun
typifies morning.
So prominently do beds figure in .splen
didly appointed bedrooms nowadays that
it is no wonder that clothing shows all
the art and lavish beauty and lace of a
fashionable woman's wearing .apparel,
Sheets of any fineness are always made
with broad bands of drawn work run
nlng about the four sides and linen lace
whipped on the edges.
Costly blankets are sent to a needle
woman before they are ready for use. to
have the edges lightly scalloped and button-hole
stitched with silk and a mono
gram worked In the corners. Counterpane?
covered with China silk show a fluff of
Valenciennes frills and pinked flounces
about their edges, and the huge sham
pillows used by day are upholstered to
exactly accord with the counterpane.
HIDING PLACE UNKNOWN.
Lost Pearls of Austria's Lamented
Murdered Empress.
The fisherfolk of the Corfu have not
ceased ye,t to hope to find the magnificent
pearls which belonged to Elizabeth, Em
press x)f Austria. She had worn them
every day since they had been given to
her on her marriage, and she had them
on her neck the hour when she heard of
the agony and death of her son whom
she adored. She bore up, In her jown
dauntless, courageous way, supporting
her husband, whose grief was even more
bitter thAn hers, inasmuch as he, was
guilty in part of. the awful tragedy
which was enacted at Meyerllng.
She never once wejt, not even when
they uncovered the dead Jace of her only
son that she might kiss him just once
more, But after a time she gave way
and rushed off from Vienna like a hunt
ed, death-stricken stag, Sho was very
ill then, and on hor recovery, says the
New York Press, she found, or farcied
that she found, her marvelous pearls had
lost their luster. She Inclosed them In a
perforated Iron box lined with silver, so
that the sea might sweep about them as
It had done at their creation and that
Its infinite light and beauty might pass
once more Into the gems,
She was then at her palace of Achllleon,
that dream of beauty and peace. But It
could bring no peace to its poor mistress'
sad soul. She wandered through Its for
est paths and climbed Its rocky way.'
She stared over her fields of oses where
luxuriant bushes of crimson, yellow, white
and plrik fill the vast garden and wails
of climbing noisette and nlphetos bound
the ground. She would rest for hours
on the pink marble steps which descended
to tho tldeless sea, and somewhere near
the little landing place, among the rocks
and weedy depths she fastened the iron
bound casket with the pearls.
After a time she tired of Achllleon. It
was perfect, but It wearied her. So jhe
removed the monument to the Crown
Prince and most of her favorite art treas
ures to the Schloss Lahiz, where she
fancied she might find some sort of refuge
for her tortured spirit. The Corfu peo
ple believe she never took her pearls from
the sea. Certainly she never was seen
to wear them again. She tired of Lainz,
as she had tired of Achllleon, and wan
dered to and fro upon the earth, until at
last, on the sunlit quay at Geneva, tho
swift, sharp stab of an anarchist's dag
ger brought to her that Infinite rest which
the cruel world In which she lived iiad
denied to her.
EXPERT WOMEN CARVERS.
Ability to Use Knife and Steel Not
Confined to Male Sex.
Tho up-to-date housewife includes a
knowledge of carving among her accom
plishments and in the majority of in
stances it is carving that Justifies the
name. Instructors in the cooking classes,
which so many women who are mistresses
of homes attend nowadays, in 'order to
learn tho latest points with regard to the
culinary arts, teach carving, and while,
like everything else, there are some worn-
DRESS OF PLEATED MUSLIN.
en who acquire the knack much quicker
and better than their sifters, those who
set themselves to learn carving generally
do it thoroughly. One of the first things
that Is taught with regard to carving is
care of tho knives.
"How can you expect to keep a good
edge on your knives, if you, jumble them
together in a drawer?" asked a well
known Brooklyn (N. Y.), cooking teacher
of her class a few months ago, says a
WTlter in the Eagle of that city.
"Knives should not be allowed to touch
each other when they are placed in the
customary receptacle and if you will only
observe a reasonable amount of care you
will ba surprised to find how easy It is to
keep your carving knives in good condi
tion. And above all things, do not sharp
en them on. the hearthstone or on the
stone steps or the side of the house or
other peculiar spots which some house
wives use as sharpening stones. Use a
good steel and bring the knife down first
one side and then the other with an easy,
sliding: stroke, at an angle of 20 to 35 de
grees. Then, if you use common sense,
you pan carve any kind of meat so as to
meet the approbation of the members of
tho family." "
This, latter achievement is one worthy of
attainment, as every amateur carver, man
or woman, wil admit. A knlfo of moder
ate size is required for good results, and
the platter should be placed near enough
to the carver to give her control of it.
It should likewise be large enough to allow
room at the side to place the portions of,
meat as they are carved. In carving
beef, mutton, lamb and veal thin, smooth
slices are desirable, and they should be
cut across the grain, taking -care to pass
the knife through to the bone of the meat.
In carving a leg of mutton the best
slices are obtained from the center, and
WORN BY
"" '' ' HUki? it
-' . vLJk
" " " i J&f'3iJwk.
' MEM IKs 7 ? ijKnfjMBBHHa
- NEW FROCK COAT INTRODUCED BY ENGLAND'S HEIR, '
The Prince of Wales caused a stir In the fashionable world recently, by appearing at tfie
Queen's earden party at Buckingham Palace In a single-breasted frock coat, cut so ag just to
meet across the chest, and furnished with buttons not intended for use. In pattern it is like
the coat worn by Episcopal clergymen, except that the buttons are not meant to be fastened,
and so allow of wide exposure of the fancy waistcoat. The silk lining extends to the edges,
and the lapels continue all the way down to the bottom of the coat, giving the garment the
appearance of a light overcoat. This Is a radical departure from the regulation double
breasted frock coat, known as tho Prince Albert, designed by "Wales, and which has long
been recognized as being the proper apparel for afternoon social functions.
next choice from the broad end. The pieces
from the part next tho knuckle are apt to
be dry. A sirloin of beef yields Its best
slices from the end near the tenderloin.
If it Is cu through In thls'part the pieces
must be fairly thick; If long thin slices
are desired it should bo cut across.
In carvfng chicken or turkey, place the
head to the right, cut off the wlng near
est, then the leg, and "then the second
joint; then slice the breast until a rounded
piece appears. Slip the knife between
that and the bone and separate them;
that is considered the best part of the
bird. Next comes'the "merry thought,"
After this turn over the bird a little, and
just below the breast will be found the
"oyster," which can be separated like
the inner breast. The side bone lies be
side the rump, and the morsel can be
taken out without separating the whole
bone. Follow the sams method with the
other sldo.
HINT FOR STOUT "WOMEN.
Skirts With Vertical Lines Proper
Thins o "Wear,
It is a mistake for a stout woman not
to have some fullness at the back of her
skirt, and, says a writer in Harper's
Bazar, a small bustle directly at tho
back will make her look smaller than
If the skirt Is allowed to hang to below
tho waist. A small pad In half-moon
shape that is fastened to the skirt, at
each end, just at the middle of the back,
makes a surprising difference In the hang
of the skirt, and, oddly enough, seems
to take away from the width of the
hips and the size of the stomach.
Vertical lines are In every' instance the
wisest choice for women who are at all
Inclined to stoutness. Especially in striped
faorics this question should be carefully
considered, and tho material made up ac
cording to some pattern which brings
the lines mostly vertical. Should the
skirt be so cut as to make the stripes
run up to a point in the back, this will
not Interfere with the becoming effect,
but they should never run horizontally
op a stoat woman. Tucks and plaits,
too, should be planned with this fact in
mind.
The several styles of skirts in vogue
this Summer allow for all types of figure.
The slim woman may be as fluffy as she
chooses; the woman with no hips may
have her skirts trimmed in yoke fashion;
the stout woman may have tucks and
vertical trimming all may look well If
they will merely give the matter a little
thought.
LIKE SIMPLICITY IN DRESS.
Men Do Not Admire Extravagantly
Garbed Women.
A woman who has thought deeply on
such, subjects says: "I am more and
more impressed by the fact that it is a
prevalent and most Injurious mistake to
suppose that all women must be splendid
ly and expensively drfssed to recommend
themselves to general approbation. A
slight acquaintance with the sentiments
and tone of conversation familiar among
men would convince all whose minds are
open to conviction that their admiration
its not to be obtained by tho display of
any kind of extravagance in dress. There
may be occasional Instances that point
to the contrary, but the praise most lib
erally and uniformly bestowed by men
upon the dress of women is that it is
neat, up-to-date, becoming and in good
taste.
"To be dressed appropriately and con
sistently is of great. Importance, for, like
many minor virtues, though scarcely
taken notice of in its presence. It Is sore
ly missed when absent. A careless or
slatternly woman, for Instance, is one of
the most repulslye objects in creation,
and such is the force of public opinion In
favor of the delicacies of taste and feel
ing In the female sex that no power of
Intellect or display of learning can com
pensate men for the want of nicety or
neatness in the women with whom they
associate In domestic life. f
"Xt used maliciously to be said that
husbands admired simply dressed wives
because they had to pay for the clothes
themselves. But in these days ot indepen
dence that idea Is completely smashed.
w-u, I find that simplicity is just as much
appreciated as it used to be,, and that in
tricacy and extravagance are completely
thrown away upon masculine onlookers.
Some'go so far as to say that they can
not for the life of them.ever describe a
dress, but they do say that when the Im
pression, it conveys to them is one of ex
travagance and overloaamg, they do not
care for it, whereas if it is sweet and
lovely, it is grateful to their taste."
LnmpvricU Bns for Cottages.
, Those who are looking for novel effects
for -"their Summer cottages may find a
helpful suggestion in rugs which are
woven from lampwlck, something after
the manner of old-fashioned braided rugs,
such as one finds' in farm houses, and
which, when finished, are painted to har
monize with the room In which they are
to bo used.
In all cases, however, black appears as
a copspjeuous part of the color scheme.
This brings out the other colors by con-
WALES.
'' k' -Vv V : ,
trast, and gives decided character to the
rug. For veranda use these rugs are
admirable, being substantial, picturesque
and unostentatious. When they are to be
used out of doors, It Is a pretty conceit
to introduce the colors of the exterior
of the house into them, retaining the
black, however, as In those for Indoor
use. Lampwlck, when bought "by the
quantity, Is Inexpensive, and as the work
costs' nothing and the paints little, one
may have a unique feature for house fur
nishing at a small outlay.
Buy Good Stationery.
Good stationers' should be used by every
one In these days, for even good paper
Is pot expensive now. Note, paper is ono
Of the items which fashion considers un
der her control, and those who like to be
up-to-date in such matters purchase only
at the best stationery shops, and where
they may be sure of getting what Is for
AN EXTREME STYLE FOULARD
tho moment the correct thing. Scented
paper is best avoided, as the perfume
may be one obnoxious to your correspond-ent-
Mc Call's for September. '
The September number of McCall's
Magazine is an attractive issue. It is re
plete, as usual, with illustrations and
reading, matter of Interest to women.
Among the contents are articles on '.'Ev
ery Bay Etiquette," "What Children" are
Wearing," "Vacation Hints", and -'Fresh
Air for Children."
'"' r Xs. WW
fj WOMAN- fj
In-Her Eye.t
He looked into her- eyes, aad all he'd "known
Of rood and true and beautiful there shone.
And all that he had thoueht that life could
hold,
In these clear depths he, raptured, saw unfold.
no looked Into her eyes tho sunny days
Ho'd lived Ion? since, and all the glorious
ways
He'd wandered In, as In a mirror clear T
He saw with inner vision reappear.
Hopes, strifes, ambitions everything his sout
Had felt, or dreamed, or suffered, did unroll;
As drowning men seem In a flash to sea
All thlnss their Uvea had stored In memory.
He looked into her eyes, and Instant knew
How much he lacked of being good and true;
How far he'd failed In struggle and In 3tr!f
Of being faithful to the best In life.
Yet shining back to him he still could see
Such loving trust, such boundless sympathy:
He felt his soul to highest height could rise
So long as he might look Into her eyes.
Indianapolis News.
LIVES OF FARM-WOMEN
Some Merc E?sisences of Ceaseless
Drudgery, Utter Hopelessness
find Direst Despair.
Sitting at my window lately and Idly
looking forth at the ever-varying pano
rama of the street, I noticed a farm
wagon standing at a residence gate across
the way. On the seat was a woman who
patiently I hoped held the lines with one
hand, while she encircled a heavy, sleep
ing child with the other arm. Tho farmer
carried samples of fruit from door to
door, with an eye to business.
It was slow work. The sun 3hone down,
broiling hot, on, the woman's defenseless
head. She sat bowed forward, looking
oh po tired and dejected! She was
"spruced up" for her trip to town, I felt
sure. On her hat was a real "plume."
which, having lost all its graceful curl,
could not stiffly defy wind and weather.
The dust of the country road-was liberally
besprinkled over her apparel, and gave
a finishing touch to the forlornnesa ot
her looks.
The seat the woman occupied was sim
ply a board, laid across the wagon bed
and' covered with a patchwork quilt. A
coop of poultry was in, the back of the
wagon. Some boxes of vegetables and
fruit and baskets of egga, wer also there,
awaiting disposal. In the ipldst of these
riches of the farm, the woman sat, look
ing meager, toll-worn and as though she
had not a ray of joy in her life,
' A "Farm-Woman."
Looking pitifully at her, I mentally
classed her among the many of her ilk
I had known when I also was a "farm
woman," but trust mej not an over
worked one.
Those poor, tired souls! Early morning
saw them hard at work cows to milk,
breakfast to prepare, washing, ironing,
scrubbing, cooking for "hired hands,"
baby-tending. There was fruit-drying
and canning and poultry-raising all Sum
mer long, this eternal, unvarying routine
of work. And, besides all this, the garden
hoe must be wielded by her skillful hands,
else must the table lack of vegetables,
"When the farmer, assisted by a stout
horse, had "broke up" the garden ground,
his duty in that direction was ended.
"While the children were too small to
assist her, all these duties fell to the
woman's share, and hers alone. As the
boys grew strong enough for work they
wero "put at" the plowing, and the multi
tudinous duties appertaining to the lot
of the farm-boy.
Tho farmer-husband worked, too. But
to his aid he summoned machinery of the
best, and also the help of the "hired
hand" or hands. At evening he rested
from his labors, while he discussed and
settled the political affairs of the coun
try, with the assistance of the hands, and
usually all chewed tobacco and spat with
emphasis.
Her Worlc Contlnnes.
Meantime, the good wife was washing
the supper dishes, preparing food against
an early breakfast, and putting the little
one3 to bed. Her work was not finished
for hours. At last, the kitchen work be
ing done, she sat down jo patch a small
pair of trousers or mond the farmer's
shirt. A.nd finally, with a sigh of utter
DRESS FOR EARLY AUTUMN.
weariness she botook herself to bed and
forgetfulness the desideratum of her ex
istence. ,
Even then she was not safe. If the
children were ailing or fretful. It was she
who must be' "up and down" to attend to
their wants. And just as that deep, bliss
ful sleep of early morning came, that
might have restored her exhausted forces,
she heard the farmer stirring, and his im
patient call: "Come! come! it is time
breakfast was started; I want to get in
a big day's work today!"
"A biff day's work!" she thought, hope-
' Icssly. When, since the day ohe married
him and came to this farm: had sho dona
other than a "biff day's work!"
Never had she known respite, save at
tho birth of her children. This crisis that
brings only dread, in most cases, is really
a sort of pleasurable interregnum to a
f armer3 wife of the above-described type.
She can "lay off" from the stress ot
duties for a few days, at least, and be.
ministered to and considered in a manner
that soothes her, very spirit.
Sad Indictment.
When one thinks of the monotonous and
narrowed existence of the farm-woman,
as a rule, one does not wonder at the sad
majority they constitute amonsr the
wpmen consigned to our insano asylums.
This one fact is an. indictment against
their way of life that cannot be smoothed
over or evaded.
The deadly sameness and reiteration, ot
toll Is enough to drive them to thgsa ref
uges for the heart-sick, and brain-weary.
It seems, to an unprejudiced mind, that
this Is all wrong. There can surely be
no reason why the farmer's wfe should
not bo provided with labor-savins ma
chinery ftnd help in the kitchen.
Are not her hours of work much longer
and fully as bone-wearying as those o
her husband t If the latter were to try a
day at the washtub. with asides of every
other description of housework, he would
probably return to his plow with supreme
reMef a sadder and a wiser man.
Happily, there are many exceptions to
the cases I have cited. There are buxom,
rosy-cheeked dames of the farm, wno
have such a wholesome, capable air of
well being that they are pleasant to loolc
upon. They are not merely drudging ma
chines of all work; they have a "say; as
to the management of the land and aro
fond of making little tours over the broad
acres. In company with the good husband,
and of surveying the stock, and the grow
ing grain, with a pleasant sense of Joint
proprietorship. '
Different Conditions.
On such a farm, the maid-servant is as
lndispensajale as the man-servant. Th
children rise up and call the farm and tha
parents that nourished them blessed.
There are no bitter recollections of a
calf, or a lamb, that was given to them
and afterward sold, and the proceeds put
In the farmer's pocket.
Such petty, Bordld meanness is the fruit
ful cause of farm boys straying cityward. ,
All things considered, the wife of a
broad-minded, up-to-date farmer can well
look upon her city sisters with no Jot of
envy. But the wife of that other farmer
ah! well, there Is but little for her ta
make life worth the living.
,MARY C. BELL.
BUSINESS WOMEN GOOD WIVES.
Brlnpr Trained Faculties to Bear dm
Household Problems.
The business woman is having her In
nings at last. The wise ones of tha
earth are beginning to say that the ex
business womnn makes the best wife In
the world. She does not expect Impos
sibilities of punctuality In her husband,
neither does she send him on errand3
during business hours. She knows that
business cares are of necessity apt to
engross much of the attention of the suc
cessful man, even when he Is absont
from tho office.
Sho does not, says the Philadelphia
North American, talk to a man who la
reading the stock reports In the morn
ing paper, and she brings all her trained,
mental faculties to bear on household
problems. In consequence of the latter
fact, she Is able to master detail In a
shorter time than Is required by the In
experienced young wife, who. previous to
her marriage, has hnd no more serious
problems than those afforded by drcsa
and social engagements to engross her
mind.
The members of the opposition aro
prpne to declare that the woman who has
earned her own money Is more careleaa
In the spending of thnt earned by her
husband. This the friend's of the busi
ness woman deny; they claim that sha
has learned to know the value of money,
and Is better able to administer it than
Is the woman who has previously had It
doled out to her In small sums, or had
her bills paid for her.
Tnnkee Women as Athletes.
In writing of the physical development
of women In America, the Ledger Month
ly says:
"Women are as eager as men to build
up fine figures, and good muscular forms.
They probably take as much Interest In
outdoor games today as the masculine
sex, and herein Is the rejuvenation of
their sex. The Amerh. an woman Is sec
ond to none in taking outdoor exercise
and recreation. The Englishwoman may
take longer walks dally, especially In
cities, where the American woman la
tempted to jump Into a car If she has a
few blocks to go: but In the matter of
taking part In outdoor game-? the women
of our land aro ahead of their English
coislns.
'The freedom and Independence Of the
American women were never displayed to
better advantage than In this direction.
She Is not only Improving her own
health, but laying the foundations for a
new race of human being1?, who will rise
up and call her blested for their physical
Inheritance, for, after all, what sur
passeth good health as an heirloom to
bequeath to our descendants?"
Mother Love and Care.
All that I am my mother made me.
John Qulncy Adams.
Nature's lovjng proxy, the watchful
mo then Bulw er.
The mother's heart Is the child's school
room. Henry Ward Beecher.
All that I am, or hope to be, I owe to
my angel mother. Lincoln.
Let France have good mothers, and she
will have good sons. Napoleon.
Unhappy Is the man for whom his own
mother has not made all mothers ven
erable. Rlchter.
The future destiny ot ihe child Is al
ways the work of the mother. Napoleon.
I would desire for a friend the son who
never resisted the tears of his mother.
Lacretelle.
If you would reform the world from it3
errors and vices, begin by enlisting tho
mothers. C. Slmmonds.
If. there be ought surpassing human
deed, or word or thought. It is a mother's
love. Marchioness de Spodara.
The Dear Baby.
Many a father thinks that the baby is
admiring him when it is simply trying to
express its: contempt.
If a baby's power was equal to its male
volence there would be a great many
more murders committed In this coun
try. Tho colic is the only thing that wilt
tackle a baby without first considering
the consequences.
There was no baby in the ark. If thera
had been allrfhe animals would have suc.
cumbed to Insomnia.
Babies know more than we think they
do. They always know whehn 1 A. M. ar
rives and are sure to wake up. Babies
not only believe in early rising, but in
sist on every one around them follow
ing In their belief ! New York World.
Mifirht Have Known It.
"Editor's wife Who wrote this beautiful
article on "How to Manage a "VETife?"
Editor-Young Quiller. -
Editor's wife Why, I didmt know h&
was married.
Editor-He isn't. McCall's Magazine, v