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$HE SnOTAY OBEG02JIA28T, PORTLAND, AUGUST 2G, 19o6.
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HEN Lewis and tr"'" "-
Clark passed
down the Colum
bia Hlver on their
famous tour of -1
exploration they
saw and admired
Mount Hood and
other snowcaps,
hut failed to see
Mount Jefferson
until their return,
-when Captain
Clark found -what
we had called
Image-Canoe Isl
and to consist of
three islands, the
one In the middle
concealing the
opening between
the other two In
such a "way as
"'to present to us
on the opposite
the appear
At the lower
GE
clde of the .river
once of a single Island.
point of the third he entered the mouth
of a large river, which Is concealed by
the three small Islands In its mouth. This
river the Indians called Multnomah.
. -i ni J.- w' .r1 j" Tt- . . c -x- . , 's "iMi'i';cf2ni ::: 'ammi
v--';--?-.. ixa'si! S) 1
CTy- 'SSiiaBlr,5(KJ5?J
sheep Mr. Foley owned a coal-black dog,
Tvhlch, when sen in the crush or high
grass, was the Image of a big black
bear. He was useful In herding the sheep,
was intelligent, and he at once became
the pet of the camp; so attached did jie
become to us that It required strong
methods of persuasion to keep him from
following us off.
About 10:20 Friday morning the pack
train filed into camp, just as we were
threatening to finish the feast of the
night before, and soon -thereafter we were
on our -way to Hunt's Cove, over a trail
through a beautiful forest, then over a
narrow, rocky ridge known as the "Wiz
ard's Backbone, so narrow at times that
one might stand on both eldps at once.
Up and down we scrambled, in full view
of tho mountain, intoxicated with the
grandeur of the scene, utterly unmindful
of the morrow, and free from cares of
the day, when clouds began to gather
and a shower seemed in prospect, then a
few stray drops of rain fell upon us and
some one said he heard thunder. The
clouds became darker, more rain fell, and
there was no question about hearing
thunder. Tho darkness Increased;, black
clouds hung above us; the thunder came
nearer, until sharp streaks of lishtning
trembled before the cliffs and the rattle
and cracking of thunder on every side as
sured us we were In the midst of a genu
ine thunder storm, unprepared for ram,
and soaked to the skin. In this condi
tion wo reached camp and found dinner
awaitlnj? us, after which we loitered
about tho camp-fire and forgot we 'were
so recently drenched.
Camp was pitched In a romantic spot at
an elevation of 5100 feet, .and as a clear
sky smiled upon us Saturday, we hiked
away to Lake Pamelia, tho cliffs,-waterfalls
and timber line, and when night
came we were all tired, but several bun
dred speckled beauties were gathered Into
camp and we were happy. The ever
present camp-firo shed its . bpneficent
beams upon us and we sang into the mid
dle of the night.
Sunday was a perfect day when some
of tho party climbed the mountain side
party could have reached tho top long ruled that no one should scale the pin
before noon, but, it Is a rule of t the or- nacle. but all tkos on the sc-called sum
ganisation that the strong must wait up- mlt on this particular occasion only,
on the weak, and If one reaches the sum- should be deemed as ellritl tn mmtar.
!?!f auihose S devsi?lnt? must also reach sh,D' under which ruling the following but actuary advanced near enough for
he was carrying to camp for a friend.
Slipping- his camera to the ground ho
drew hs weapons and awaited the attack.
for the bear showed no signs of retreat.
it. mis necessitates extr;meIV' slow nersonn wm-a niprtori Tnm'hi.- -vr?.,., -vrr
climbing, but the club takes pride In get- nerva Udell, Dr. "V. A. Trimble. J. G
ting- all to the top. The climb was al- Crawford, 'ilrs. W. F.v D. Mercer. Eev
AT MESS, HUNT'S COVE.
most exclusively over rocks, and veri
similar to "Mount Pitt.
About 2 P. M. the last members of the
party clambered through a chimney to a
narrow cliff of rocks on the first landing
of the general summit, immediately after
which Vice-President Parsons called the
meeting to order on tho next point near
the base of the pinnacle. The following
Mazamas were present: "Vice-President Jd.
T. Parsons, Financial Secretary FC C.
Little, R. L. Glisan, L. E, Anderson, R.
Alex. Bernstein, E. H. Loomls, "Will G.
StecJ. M. C. Georgo, F. A Routledgc,
Frank D. Frazer, "W. H. Dongan, C. C.
Lewis, Prof. P. L. Campbell, A. P. Mc
Klnlay, Prof. T. 0 Hutchinson, and H N.
Cockerllne. The meetlncr wns brought
xaca to face with a problem that has
been Informally 'discussed ever since the
club was organized, which is, "What con
stitutes reaching such a point on a per
petual snow cap as to qualify for mem-
H. L. Reed, Rev. O. A. Petty, E. L. Mc
Klnlay, Georgo L. Batty, Edward Stewart,
Mrs. "Will G. Steel, Harry Cook, S. C.
Spencer, R. B. "Wilson, Miss Jennie E.
Thompson, D. C. Freeman, E. C. Block
wood, H. A. Young, S, A.- DeBord, R. R.
Parrish. "W. C. Riddell. O. Fling,
Carrying out the idea set forth above,
at a campflre council held Tuesday
evening the following preamble and res
olution wore adopted: "Whereas, parties
climbing with the club to. the base of the
pinnacle on Mount Jefferson on the 13th
inst. were elected members of the club,
and
"Whereas, the point attained is not act
ually the highest on the mountain, but,
nevertheless, such action becomes a prec
edent In the history of the club, there
fore, be It
"Resolved, That If, in the opinion of
club members present on an annual out
ing it is deemed extra hazardous to take
him to discover It was Foley's black dog.
At ainrloix Inke.
Tuesday morning we were again on th
move. This: time for Marion Lake, nine
miles distant. Thfc? lake Ilea southeast
of Mount JetTerson, at an elevatton of 450'
feet: Is about two miles long by less thajii
one wide, is clear, beautiful and In places,
quite deep. It Is surrounded by forests
and rocky bluffs, and many smaller lakeffl
abound In the vicinity. Fish are abund
ant, hut must be sought from rafts, aa
there are no boats on the lake. Messrs
Henness, Heseman and White, forest
rangers, accompanied us from Hunt's"
Cove an.d piloted us to a new camp
ground In an Ideal spot close to the lake.'
but surrounded by tall forest trees. The'
ground Is clear of underbrush and closal
to camp runs a stream remarkable for its
sparkling- qualities and low temperature
Remarkable even for a stream in tho?
high Cascades. To these forest ranger"
the club feels under deep obligations for
their unceasing efforts to aid us, and their'
superior knowledge of trails and th
region. In general enabled them to boj
of constant assistance. Xot only do wo4
feel deeply grateful to the rangers, buti
to Captain Ormsby, who probably madoj
it possiblo for them to serve us so ably.H
Right here I want to say that no class!)
Of people appreciate more than the Ma
zamas the excellent work that is belnsfil
done throughout the Cascade range byr
Captain Ormsby and his assistants Inj
preventing forest fires, opening old tralls4
and cutting new ones where most need-4
ed.
Johnnie, the Donliey.
The one member of our party to at-f
tracp attention and always rise to the oc-
caslon, winning the affection of all with
whom he came In contact was Johnnie, i
a gray-headed donkey, owned and rid-'!
den by one of the ladies. Sharing ourjj
festivities he looked wise and brayed him-!
self Into favor. Around the camp-flro'i
Johnnie had his say and at day-brealc?
aroused us from slumber.
On one occasion, after a hard day's J
tramp, lie lingered behind and, upon com-J
lng to where the trail forked, was guided
the wrong way. No amount of persuasion
could force him to proceed, and when,
blows were resorted to he laid down and
groaned. Finally his head was turned,
the other way when he started off aa
frisky as a colt, and a few mlmutes late
entered camp and rushed into our very
midst, laughing out loud and wagging)
59 iVq,i, v,."SE
tlH'A
r
from a nation of the same name residing
near it on Wapp&too Island. Mount Hood
bore due eat, and Captain Clark now
discovered to the southeast a mountain
which he had not yet seen, to which he
Eu.ve the name of Mount Jefferson." It
thus occurred that Mount Jefferson and
the Willamette River were discovered by
Captain Clark on the samo day, April
3, IS05. It Is located on the crest of the
C radeTanflfe, In Oregon, between Marion
cid (."rook Counties, in latitude 44 dcg., 40
m!n., 36.1 sec., and longitude 1T1 deg., 48
m'n IP.9 sec During the 40s It was
called Mount Vancouver by the British, made for pack horses and other field ne
It Is 10,567 feet high, and is visible over cessitles, so that when we arrived at
Eas$6:a..e-S:rB:E & e
a large portion of Orejron. being one of
the f ve snowcaps visible from the hills
surrounding Portland.
It is surmounted by a sharp pinnacle,
nearly perpendicular on all lles, which
ueiroit mere were but six horses to
transport 37 persons, together with their
supplies. Again, this train belonged to
two partners, who appreciated the situa
tion nnd made the most of it. Mazamas.
however, are not kickers, but made the
in turn is divided into two peaks separated bost of everything under adverse cir-
by a depression oalled the saddle, a verv stances.
sharp ridge of rock. One point of the
pinnacle is about 30 feet higher than the
other, winch, of course, is the actual sum-
s4Ro-S
We left Portland Monday evening. Au
gust G, spent the night at Albany, and
arrived at Detroit, at the terminus oi
the Corvallls & Eastern Railway, about
noon on Tuesday, where the following
persons wore found to compose the party:
R. L. Glisan, L. E. Anderson, R. Alex
Bernstein, E. H. Loomls. F. C. Little. R.
B. Wilson, Miss Jennie E. Thompson, D.
C. Freeman, W. L. Brewster, Will G.
Steel and wife. M. C. George, E. C. Black
wood. F. A. Routledge, A. p. McKlnley.
B. L. McKinlay and Mrs. W. F. D. Mer
cer, of Portland: Frank D. Frazer and
W. H. Dougan. of Seattle; Miss Minerva
Udell, of Tacoma: C. C Lewis and Pro
xessor P. L. Campbell, of Monmouth; Dr.
W. A. Trimble, J. G. Crawford, Rev. H.
L. Reed. Rev. O. A. Petty. Ed Stewart
and Fred Dawson, of Albany; George L.
Batty, of Canby; Professor T. O. Hutchin
son, of Oakland; E. T. Parsons, of Chi
cago. 111.; H. X. Cockerllne, of Eugene;
Harry Cook, of Salem, and the cooks,
Georgo and S. A DeBord. A little later
wo were joined by S. C. Spencer, of Port
lnd, and H. A. Young, of Salem, making
S7 In all.
On the Itonrinpr Snntlnm.
The Corvallis & Eastern Railroad fol
lows the North Fork of the Santiam to
Detroit, about 25 miles from Mount Jef-
Cof-nrj&m ipoo BRM5Tew Asrr.5Ton.&
canopies. Rugged boulders and massive
walls quickly give place to peaceful
btretches of deep blue water, blending to
a rich turquoise in shallow places, and
again flashing forth as sparkling crystal.
The rldo was enjoyed to its utmost limit,
but our destination was reached at last,
a camping place was quickly found and
preparations made for the night. As
darkness came on we gathered about tne
campfirc, and the spirit of old carao over
us as we sang songs and told stories of
other days and passed a regret for the ab
sent ones. ,
Wednesday morning tho sky was over
cast, and before breakfast was over a
lino drizzle was upon us, which gradually
The Gnlde.
ar.'t. Frevteus to 3SI8 no attempt to scale
ti:a pinnacle jsxved successful. On Au
gust 12 of that year, however. E. C Cross
end Ray L. Ptrawr made the ascent to
tho lower point of the pinnacle. In July,
IScT, a party headed by Charles E. Rob
lln, of Salem, and under the guidance of
Lc:n Gates, succeeded in making the as
B'nt to the higfeeet point, carrying with
thcra the Mauma record-box formerly
I-'t at the base of the pinnacle, and Mr.
IvlIin attempted to make photographs,
t.t Ins camera fatted to wrork, so he re
turned to tlte mountain in a few days in ,
ecu pany "with Judge George H. Burnett.
I xi Gatee, E. a Xeai and J. H. CelHas.
v 1 - made the ascent Thursday; August 5.
r-d "were overtaken by a thunder storaj
rv le on the summit.
It lias been the ceetora of the Mazamas
f'-m the time of their organization to
Cc . J on a place for the next annual out.
ir. abaut tlae first of the year, and to
commence preparation for it at once
Tl-ls vear, however, proved an exception.
In January tke club Instructed its council
to 0 to Mouwt Jefferson, but, for some
vr ic "ountable reason the council was not
cI d together to arrange details until
!te in June. As a result of tms vacli
laung policy amu- members had then
nade other arrangements for vacation.
cd were unable ta aoeotttpeay us. thus
etly reducing toe number of partici
pants. Anaenar vnCartxmate result was
0b.
; rifc4i-!"''2M';'V:Bt- j. .... A,'. ...
II I WW i i . i.
. 'VfllEW S gsaj'S'&g FJrcara rr.JEFFEBSCa.M- 3f
Colonel Steibcns. CraeU Ansler.
farson, affording one of the most beautiful
and interesting rides in the country. The
SanHam descends with remarkable regu
larity, presenting an almost continual
break over & rocky bottom as It Hows
tltroagti coniferous forests, flashing In the
sanaght, now and then roaring over the
Johnnie and His Mount.
Increased until an old-fashioned Oregon
rain was upon us, in the midst of which
camp was broken up, the pack train was
loaded and we started for Peaslee's ranch,
14 miles distant. As the pack train could
not carry tho entire outfit it was de
cided to take the kitchen and blankets
and two days' provisions with us, and
send the train back to Detroit before
night. To provide against emergency it
was decided at the camp-fire Wednesday
evening that every man should carry as
many blankets on the morrow as con
venient. Thursday the packers agreed to
be at Peaslee's at 11 o'clock, where the
second load would be left and the neces'
saries carried to Hunt's Cove before
night. Bright and early we were all on
our way, except Mr. Little, who remained
to look after the packers. Clouds od
scured the sun. the day was cool, but no
rain fell to wet the brush and make us
uncomfortable. About 3 o'clock we ar
rived on Minto Mountain, at an elevation
of 503 feet, and were informed by for
esters" that there was no water between
that point and Hunt's Cove. Under such
circumstances we decided to wait for
the pack train, and it was lucky we did,
as it failed, to arrive until next day. Our
lunch had been eaten, blankets were
scarce, and the elevation was such as to
insure a chilly night. However, fortune
smiled upon us. W. A. Foley owned
a band of 2400 sheep In the vicinity, one
of which was sacrificed and broiled over
the fire with sticks, while the cooks
struggled with the two little frying-pans
trying to keep up a supply of half-baked
dough gods. We sang and shouted with
glee while the merry feast went on, and
and others fished. At 11 o'clock most
of them gathered -together and sang
hymns of praise and thanksgiving, and
religious services were conducted by the
Rev. H. L. Reed and Rev. O. A. Petty.
Dinner was served at 2 P. M. immediate
ly after which we moved to timber line
and camped for the night In full view of
eastern and western Oregon From camp
we had an excellent view of tho Three
Sisters, whereas, off to the west we saw
the Three Pyramids big black buttes
from photographs qf which it Is said oil
paintings have been made with painted
snow on the sides, copies of which aro
sold to unsophisticated tourists under the
false plea that they are the Three Sisters.
Daubs of this kind have been exhibited
in first-class hotels and labeled "art." and
asinine society people have been known,
to rave over them and gush about their
"artistic finish."
First Upward Climb.
Mpnday morning, August 13th, camp
was astir at 3 o'clock, and at 5:30 the up
ward climb commenced with thirty-six
members In the party, sixteen of whom
were Mazamas. A clear sky and at
mosphere added greatly to the interest of
the climb, ,for we could see all over east
ern Oregon rrom tne Columbia Klver to the
lakes of Klamath County, and the moun
tains and valleys west of the Cascado3
were spread out before us as a scroll.
From camp we ascended to a moraine
on the southerly side of the mountain
and followed its reeky ridge all the way.
True to the established policy of the club,
the party was divided Into companies
under chosen leaders, kept together, and
speed was regulated to suit the necessi
ties of the slowest. A majority of the
bershtp?" Under th by-laws only such
persons are qualified for membership as
"have climbed to the summit of a per
petual snow-capped mountain containing
at least one living glac'er and up the
sides of which it is impossible to ride,
horseback or otherwise." No one denies
a large party to the top of a special rock hi3 tall like a dog. If the club yell waa
or eminence above the usually accepted given, Johnnie knew a thing or two, and i
summit of a snow-capped mountain, the repuea -with a long and vigorous bray.
S33J )
Panhlnt? the Bngagc-Gnr.
but that the summit Is the highest pos
sible point to which every one must go
to qualify under ordinary circumstances,
but, on the other hand, to take a large
party up the pinnacle, most of whom
were never before on a mountain, would
be assuming great responsibilities with
out an adequate return, -hence It was
commonly accepted summit may be de
clared sufficient to qualify for member
ship on the official climb only, provided
but one ascent is made on, a day previous
ly designated as the official climb."
Under this rule no one can qualify for
membership on such a mountain as Jef
ferson without climbing to the highest
point, except on the official trip.
A very fine aneroid barometer was car
ried on the trip, which indicated an ele
vation of the base of the pin.nacle of
10,300 feet, which is only 2S7 feet short of
the total elevation as recorded, which,
in my opinion, will eventually be shown
as near the height of the pinnacle.
In Hunt's Cove.
Immediately after the climb every one
returned to camp In Hunt's Cove as soon
as possible, except Mr. Lewis, who stray
ed oft alone to take a few photographs.'
For several hours he worked, until all
his plates were used, when he started
across country for camp. Suddenly ho
came face to face with a big black bear.
Both stopped and eyed each other for a
moment, he expecting the bear to rush
off In the woods, but It showed no slgn3
of retreat. He had no firearms and not
even a spare plate to take a picture. The
pause became awkward and time seemed
to stand still. Finally, however, the bear
disappeared, and Lewis started In tho
opposite direction shouting for assistance.
Suddenly the bear re-appeared, directly in
his path, and again they eyed each other,
until Lewis remembened he had on hl3
person a knife and small hand axe that
If wo sang around the camp fire and
stopped for breath, Johnnie took ujt
v " '-z-"" ': '-'' v - fffrfth t fi
tbt C"? SPS?1?5 cduia no rocks, aft again retiring through green Foley supplied, the flour, Besides fcjj-
C9MMI$5ART SUPPLIES B? ROUTE
Stereoptlcon Cranlc
the strain and sent it back again. Ocp
mascot and our friend.
On Friday morning, the 17th Inst, wa
left Marion Lake for home, regretting
tho necessity of returning to civilization,
and gratified that we had been so for
tunate as to participate in the outing of
1S03. During the day. and on Saturday
until we reached Detroit, the sky was
overcast and the air cool. In fact, every
day of the trip was perfect In itself, even
Including the thunder storm, without
which smoke would have obscured the
vision during the climb Saturday even
ing we reached Albany, and the following
morning were safely at home.
WILL G. STEEL.