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PAGES 20 TO 28
PART THREE
VOL. XIX.
PORTLAND, OREGON, StJNDAY MORNING, -JULY 22, 1900.
NO. 29.
life
)j p g a,;. ffi
Fil! the bumper fair!
Ei'ery drop we sprinkle
O'er the brow of care
Smooths away a wrinkle.
"Wit's electric flame
Ne'er so swiftly passes
As when through the frame $ ."y
It shoots from brimming glasses.' ,
Fill the bumper fair! ' .- ; ,
Every drop we sprinkle 1 4 .
O'er the brow of care 7-
Smooths away a wrinkle. -
Thomas Moore.
What Is the favorite tipple of Port
landers? Is there an Inordinate fondness,
for any particular kind, and If so, what -is
it? Is there more liquor, or less liquor,
consumed in Portland, for its size, than
any other city? These questions, correct
ly answered, would be of decided inter
est, and an attempt will be made to show
the status of thepe matters, in a way
that shall be approximately correct, at
least. To And out these facts, it became
necessary, for the nonce, to- become - a
habitue of barrooms barrooms where
men with silk hats and gaudy vests
bought their drinks, at "15 cents straight,
or two for a quarter"; barrooms where
the limit was a dime, down to other bar-
rooms, where great crowds of rough
looking men were standing, elbow to
elbow, against long bars. Here were bar-i
tenders, with dirty aprons, moving rap
idly to and fro between the jingling cash
registers and the faucets, serving huge
schponers of beer. Glaring electric lights
illumined the scene. Wheezy pianos, and
pianos sounding like tin pans, furnished
accompaniments to cracked voices of
brazen females, singing to people who
apparently paid not the slightest atten
tion to them.
"Whisky Most In Favor.
At one place the bartender said that,
eo far as his experience went, whisky
cemed to be the favorite potation. The
nrxt in demand, during the forenoon
ho'jrs, were gin fizzes and whisky cock
tails. In the afternoon straight whiskies
scttned to meet the requirements. Next
to American whisky came Scotch. This
bar was In a hotel, by the way. The bar
keeper said that some days he did a roar
ing trade in bottled beer, stout and 'Dub
lin porter, but these were generally con
sumed In their rooms by the hotel
patrons. Much more beer was drunk in
Summer than in Winter.
In one of the leading hotels of Portland,
the general demand during the morning
hours is for cocktails of all kinds. A
considerable amount of Llthla water and
other mineral waters seem to fill the
needs of many. At noon, many prefer
beer with their lunches. Afternoons here,
whisky Is most generally demanded. Two-Jrl.-vof
33orUftH3isxwhlskyilrlnkers'Ie
sire Bourbon, and very little rye is aBked
for. In the evening, at the hostelry under
consideration, Scotch whisky Is frequent
ly called for. Cocktails, between 5 and
C:30 P. M., meet the popular taste.
In the evening, cordials, such as bene
djctine and maraschino are craved by
seme, while others ask for' creme de
menthe, creme de violet, etc Occasion
ally a brandy and soda finds its way over
the bar. Much chartreuse is sold at this
place, and curacoa has not a few after
dinner devotees. From 8 to 11 P. M.,
many punches of the various kinds are
called for. With late dinners come orders
for a great deal ot champagne of various
brands. Of course, some non-alcoholic
beverages are drunk. Just before 5 o'clock
dinner, some customers drink mint tod
dles or juleps, for appetizers.
"Winter Beverages. '
The chief Winter beverage is whisky.
L.:tle brandy is drunk in Portland. Light
wines and punches are more readily dis
posed of in the Summer. Bock and rya
is often Inquired after for colds in the
Winter. Blackberry brandy, as a medic
inal drink, is as much asked ior here as
In Eastern cities.
"I And," said one bartender, "that coun
try people are great for all sorts of mixed
drinks. Gin fizzes and cocktails seem to
hit the right spot with them. Too many
drinks In the evening give people a 'sore
head' In the morning. Then they call
for absinthe. Some pour a little in the
palm of the hand and, rubbing it briskly
with the other hand, inhale the fumes. I
suppose this gives a little temporary" re
lief. I find that Scotch whisky is very
popular here in 'high balls.'
"Many drinks, once popular, are little
heard of now. 'Queen Charlotte'-a soft
drink is gone out of fashion. 'Conclave'
made of raspberry syrup and milk is
another back number.
"There are not many absinthe drinkers
in Portland. Very few drink straight gin
here. When some fellow makes a deal
and rakes in a good pile, then he cele
brates with champagne."
"My experience," declared one purvey
or, "shows people here are pretty fond
of gin fizz and whisky punch. Coffee
cocktails are quite the thing now. There
Isn't any coffee in them. They get their
name from their color. Sugar, lemon
Juice, port wine, brandy and a whole tgg,
'well shaken before taken and there you
have It.
Women Customers.
"I have two women customers who ask
every afternoon for 'a harem. This Is
simply creme de cocoa and cream, served
in a pousse cafe glass. 'Horse's neck is
another, served In a peg glass. This Is
made of Angostura, -a, bit of ice and some
lemon peel. Then the glass is filled up
witht Belfast ginger ale. 'Horse's col
lar' is made the same way, with a dash
of whisky on top. 'Sunshine Is a mix
ture of French and Italian vermouth and
Plymouth gin. In equal proportions."
It Is safe to assume that a mixed drink
called "a bride's kiss." will never be
popular here with the bartenders. It has
too many frffls. This is made by cutting
down the skin of a thin-skinned orapge
into eight equal parts. The Inside ls-llke-wise
separated. The whole,, thus opened
like a flower, is placed on top of an old
style, flaring champagne glass. . A flat
shaped piece of Ice cream is placed on top
of this, surmounted by eight strawber
ries. Then brandy and maraschino cordial
are poured in. This is served with two
small straws and a spoon.
From observation it is clear that Port
land is a .whisky-drinking town. Cock
tails and gin-fizzes come next in the scale
$$ mWWyvSs '35V mRn had fiwal!owca a b! dose ot tne stutt I yS
rWt ft kmrnaji f rr' ? ' all there was, In fact not being able to 1 " 1 ,
C 'Q " yMPtSSStS ja distinguish between it and the soda. They Jr-lxP I J - '"?
p- - iTrKKrKNM 'iff9 Ji had hard, work to pull him through, but TW$ J-"1 j W -
fry '1 1 r 'mlmmmKm2m8sz, TiiSfiW m "LLm I A laughable story is told of a wag who ; I ;
i'VI i i I I sa bought a. glass of beer over a bar. With-. .'?''' -- I jj If ' '-'
I '-w ) 1 j JgjSSal out a smile, he held Jt up under the elec- ' i' , ' ' I jj i .;.- '' T
pv . ' , " 2g3jr trie fan, and the current of air blew off , j. f ":,
1 p -l the foam" an ordinal scheme, surely. "' vy ';' .H f h "
I j I ""i "j I One of the best-known stories Is that ' "- . ;'".- i I "!.''
' y j II f I j ' f regarding whisky punch, sometimes called ! " f 'r -' . XV "
I . . J j J HS r "a ntradlctIon." There are two ver-( ., 4y.'-r '. "' .' ' t
; ,' k rf"j slons a French, and one In cockney Eng-; . Jk ' .-. ' " " '"
. vm0.r- m ' - . . m - . .
of consumption, while wines stand low
est on the list, the ambunt of beer drunk
vastly exceeding them in quantity. One
mixer of drinks said that, at his bar,
every seven men in 10 asked for a mixed
drink, while, in California, the rule was
Just the other way. Still, whisky straight
holds Its own in Portland, as a general
thing. There Is more mint used here, this
man said, than in the whole ot Northern
California, including San Francisco.
For Its size, Portland uses fc. great deal
of Intoxicants in a year, although, on
the other hand, it Is gratifying to note
that many American cities of less size ex
hibit more drunkenness. In proportion,
than does Portland.
Soda. Fountain.
It isn't the bars that dispense all the
drinks, by any means. The soda fountains
serve thousands daily. Egg drinks flips,
phosphates and chocolates tickle Port
land palates very well. Then. too. there
are the frappes, mint freezes, crushea"
fruit and Ice cream sodas, as well as the
pineapple smashes, glaces, etc At certain
fountains one doesn't need to wink when
he calls for an "Ideal." Besides the soda
and syrup, brandy, claret and rum enter
into its composition. Nervines and plain
phosphates find a ready sale at all the
fountains.
Some men here drink no water with
their strong liquors. Some drink the
water first, but most of them after. One
man . pours brandy In his handkerchief
and simply Inhales the fumes.
There Is a drink known as "white
plush," being a composition of whisky
and milk, or cream. It Is related that, one
night, half a dozen dry goods traveling
men gathered at a well-known bar. FIvo
drank whisky; one drank milk. Slyly
the other five began adding a little
whisky to his lacteal beverage. He didn't
notice any change in the taste. In a good,
natured scuffle, his glass was upset,
spilling the contents on the bar. The
milk-drinker had, by this time, gotten
enough liquor aboard to feel pretty Jolly.
He pointed to the white blotch on the
bar, and said:
"Shay, boys hie it looks like white
plush, doesn't it? hie!" -This Is said to
have suggested the name.
A Sllscht 2Ilstakc.
A certain bartender came to Portland
from Chicago. He so strongly claimed to
understand all the Ins and outs of the
retail liquor business that he made every
body think he was all he claimed to
be. Not feeling well one night, he said
he would remove the bicarbonate of soda
from the back-bar to his room, where
he would take it as a medicine.
Next morning; when the man who had
the day watch came on, he tried to find
some quinine for a customer that had
la grippe. None could be found, and dis
covery was made that the smart Chicago
man had swallowed a b!g dose of the stuff
all there was, In fact not being able 'to
distinguish between it and the soda. They
had hard. work to pull him through, but
he never bragged again.
A laughable story is told of a wag who
bought a. glass of beer over a bar. With-,
out a eralle, he held Jt up under the elec- '
trie fan, and the current of air blew off
the foam an original scheme, surely.
One of the best-known stories Is that
regarding whisky punch, sometimes called
"a contradiction." There are two ver
slons a French, and one In cockney Eng-
llsh both good. The cockney story iu
something' Kite this:
"Hit's a bloomln' queer drink, donchet .
know. They puts hln a bit o sugar, to
make hit sweet, an a bit o' lemon to make
hit sour. Then they puts hln some w'lsky
to make a man drunk, an' some bloomln'
fizz to. make "lm sober. The feller e
drinks hit up, an' he says, ' JEre's a go'
but e doesn't go doncher know, but 'e
takes another. Hlf that hain't a bloomln
contradiction, HI don't know w'at yer call
hit."
The history of the drinking of alcoholic
beverages dates back somewhere among
the mists, of antiquity. It is probably
nearly, if not quite, coequal with the ex
istence of man himself. Recorded annals
show that the Egyptians made and drank
beer, or "barley wine." as they called It,
ffiOO B. C. References in Holy Writ are
frequent to the use of wine. Probably
the principal countries in the Orient where
the use of liquors is not common, is in
those regions where Mohammedanism
prevails, for the Koran prohibits their
use.
In the countries of Southern Europe the
use of wines is very common. In France,
It Is the i same, with the addition ot
liquors, cordials and such tipples. Ab
sinthe Is very popular In la belle. France,
as Is generally known, and her famous
champagnes and brandies are known the
world overl
In all German-speaking countries beer
and sour wines are more popular. In Hol
: -- 'fc
land, gin la a common drink- In Scan
dinavian countries, alcohol, with a very
slight addition of water. Is largely con
sumed. The English are partial to por
ter, ale and beer, with an occasional
brandy and soda, though of late years the
consumption of American whiskies Is
largely increasing, as some claim. The
Scotch are fond of ale, and Scotch whis
kies, with their peculiar smoky flavor,
are coming much into vogue. The Irish
whiskies arc not yet quite as popular as
the Scotch variety. They surely fall un
der Shakespeare's definition of "hot and
rebellious liquors."
Tho American is cosmopolitan In his
tastes for liquors, drawing Impartially
upon all sources. California's wines. Ken
tucky's whiskies and the numorous
brews of American beers are widely
known.
It is not the object of the present arti
cle to argue either for or against the use
of liquors. As far back as 1SG9, Profes
sor John Fiske wrote a book, entitled "To
bacco and- Alcohol." He reaches the
conclusions that "It docs pay to smoke,"
and that "the coming man will drink
wine." Inasmuch as such has practically
always been the case, there Is nothing
new' in what Professor Fiske finds.
Gladstone, it is said, was fond of sherry
and egg, and George Washington had a
generous punch bowL Kecently, too, there
has been a great deal said about the
Army canteen. All these things show how
Inextricably the -rlnklng custom Is In
terwoven Into the woof and web of human
life. Shakespeare puts Into Othello's
mouth some strong sentiments against
wine. In one Instance he says:
"O thou Invisible spirit of wine! If thou
hast no name to be known by let us call
thee devil!"
And again: "J have very poor and un
happy brains for drinking."
Iago did not condemn wine, for he said:
"Come, come, good wine Is a good fa
miliar creature, if it be well used."
Shakespeare, in another instance, de
clares that "good wine needs no bush."
Old Fletcher believed In making the most
of present opportunities, for he some
where says:
Drink today, and drown all sorrow;
Tou shall perhaps not do 't tomorrow.
Mattthew Prior very truthfully wrote:
"They never taste who always drink."
Francis Bacon quotes Alonzo of Ara
gon." as saying that "age appears to be
best In four things old wood best to burn,
old wine' to drink, old friends to trust,
and old authors to read." The old Eng
glish writer, Somervllle, gently insisted;
"Wine that makes cowards brave, .tho
dying strong."
Even Homer admitted: "Wlne.givea
much-strength to wearied man," but he
advances, in another place, in the Iliad,
quite the opposite sentiment, where he
says: "Mine honored mother, bring mo
not luscious wine, lest thou unnerve my
limbs, and make me lose my wonted prow
ess apd strength." A favorite sentiment
among the Romans was: "Vinum ex
hilarat anlmum wine xnaketh glad' tha
heart."
Schiller once said: "Wine invents noth
ing; it only tattles." His great fellow
poet, Goethe, however, viewed wine dif
ferently. "When thou hast drunk wine,"
he said, on one occasion, "thou art ever,
double what thou wouldst otherwise be
twice as full of Ingenuity, twice as energetic"-
This Is the way Aristophanes looked.,
upon drink: "When men drink, they are
rich; they traffic, are successful In. law
suits, are happy, give aid to their
friends."
The suggestions of Plato are of inter
est. . He advocated a law to totally pro
hibit the use of wine for boys under 13.
After that, he believed they should only
use It moderately until they were 30. At
40 he believed men could safely Indulge
at banquets. For men in. their declining
years, he said DIony3os "kindly be
stowed wine upon men, as a remedy
against the moroseness of old age," so
that, through It they might grow young:
again. Tho paint Plato was evidently
anxious to establish was that the danger
In wine drinking lies more in its abuse
than In Its use. The argument is a good
one now.
In the First Epistle of Paul the Apostle,
to Timothy, Paul- says, in chapter5 vr
verse 23:
"Drink no longer water, but use a lit
tle wine for thy stomach's sake and
thine often infirmities." If men would
only heed this and not go Into excesses,
there would be little danger.
Anslo-Sfucons Hard Drinkers.
The Anglo-Saxon forbears of the Eng-
llsh race had the reputation of being'
great drinkers a reputation they certain-'
ly sustained. At their convivial gather
ings, it was the custom to pass around
a huge cup, from which each in turn
took a draught, to the health of tho
company. This was done standing. As
the size of the vessel made the use otT
both hands necessary, this act left tho
body unprotected, and gavo an enemy tha
opportunity to commit murder.
This led to the adoption of the custom
ot having a friend stand at hand, with,,
drawn sword, as a defender. Such friend
was termed "a pledge," since ho pledged?
the- safety of the one drlnkinjg.rTo'
pledge one in drink comes directly from;
this ancient custom, the adoption oC
which was brought about by the assass!-'
nation of Edward, the Saxon King, whoi
was stabbed while drinking.
Some trace the origin of drinking)
healths by pledge of friendly protection,
to the time of the Danish Invasion. as
the old Norsemen had a habit of stab
bing an enemy while his hands held aloft;
his drlnklng-cup. The passing of thoj
cup from lip to lip that has come down,
to the present, finds its counterpart lnj
the "loving cup." This custom prevails
at the great feats of the ixrd Mayor,
of London.
Pledging another in drink has often led
another to inebriety. Sir Matthew "Hale,
England's great Chief Justice, enjoined
his grandchildren from drinking health,
pledges, for the reason that. In largo as-
semblages, it was prone- to lead to de
bauchery. Drinking? Henlths.
Probably the earliest recorded lnstanco
In Anglo-Saxon times of drinking to tho
health of another, was where Romena
gave Vortlgern a pledge in wine. Enter
lng the King's presence with the cup,
where he was surrounded by his guests,
she bowed lowly to the sovereign, ex
claiming: "Waes heal, hlaford Cynlng Be oft
health, Lord King." Then draining tho
cup, she said: "Drink heal drinlf
health."
In 1617, Rich, an old Irish writer, ex
pressed himself very pointedly on drink
ing to the health of others. He wrote a,
book, and In which he said:
"In former ages they had no conceits
whereby to draw on drunkenness; their
best was, 'I drlnke to you,' and I pledge
yee; till at length some shallow-witted
drunkard found out the carouse, which,
shortly after, was turned Into a hearty
draught; but now it is Inglned (enjoined)
to the drinking of a health, invention oC
that worth and worthinesse, as it is pltty
the first founder was not hanged, that
wee might haue found out his name la
the ancient record of the Hangman's Reg
ister!" Rich quaintly observes further: "Ho
that first Invented that vse of drinking
healths, had his bralnes beat out with
a pottle-pot: a most lust end for InvcnU
ors of "such notorious abuses."
CHARLES E. SAWYER.
The Roof Garden.
And now the garden on the roof.
"When the evening's shade3 appear,
The vaudevUHan's in his prime.
The ballet and the beer.
The arch of stars far overhead.
The silent streets below;
The gleaming hues of costly gowns
In an electric glow;
Tho dashing music of the band
In waltz or minuet:
The breezes fresh from sea and stra&d-
The waiter "fresher" yet;
The tempting tinkle of the ice.
The singers saucy songs.
Too often anything but nice
Encored by noisy throngs.
But, should the programme please you not.
Why take another view,
And study up your fellow-man,
A some are prone to do;
Or eat an Ice and talk of art
If you would hold aloof
From llfe'3 kaleidoscopic whirl
That glittered on the roof.
.New York Herald.
Incorrigible.
Mrs. Lushford I see you are. late again
Don't you remember what I told you tho
last time you stayed out so late?
Mr. Lushford No, m' dear. Zass ze rea
son I stayed out zlsh time to see If you'dl
say It over again. Indianapolis Press.
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