"HSF
26
THE SUNDAY OEEGONIAN, PORTLAND, MAY 20, 1900.
in: FASHIONS lEJ
fyir.pgri wy
Be Brave, Sweetheart.
Tho month of brides will soon bo hero,
Helgho. sweethearts!
"When every love can wed Its dear.
In Nature' h daintiest atmosphere.
If lovers will but persevere
In Cupid's arts.
The girls are waiting oh, dear, yea
In all their Springtime loveliness
"Who knows? the answer may be "yes."
Ee brave, sweethearts!
. Philadelphia Inquirer.
SMART TOGS FOR CYCLING
RoHnd or Divided Skirt, Brilliant
Shirt Waists, Light Hats and
Eatiy Shoen the Caper.
NEW YORK, May 14. Ask at any good
shop about bicycle fashions and you will
probably get the nonchalant reply:
"Oh, a ehort skirt and a shirt waist Is
oil any woman needs awheel."
And yet the problem of finding a proper
and comfortable cycling costume apd at
the same time one good to look at is still
costing both novice and expert no end of
trouble.
No new patents are being taken out
this Spring on "perfect cycling suits," but
still it would be unsafe to conclude from
this that the ordinary circular skirt of
the past few seasons Is altogether satis
factory. Indeed, now that the bicycle fever has
subsided, and the sport from being a fad
has settled down to a fixed position in
athletics, the army of wheelwomen while
far more decorously clad and more pre
sentable than In the days when the mar
ket was flooded with freakish garments
and the highways crowded with freakish
looking pedal-pushers wearing them, are
perhaps at once better satisfied with
themselves and less uncomfortable.
There was a reason for the late un
pleasantness, as some have styled the Ir
ruption of bloomers. Women didn't
plunge Into them all at once. First they
tried an almost endless succession of cy
cling skirts.
Some skirts were divided down the
back only, some all the way through,
and others had a network of harness un
derneath that would put the wires In a
telephone exchange to shame. None was
satisfactory-
Then and not until then did the bravest
of the army of merry bikers try bloom
ers. These solved many problems, yet
they had a short existence and one not
without blame.
Couldn't Mnke 'Em.
At Its close the wheelwomen patted
themselves on the back and said It was
their superior modesty and sense of pro
priety that sounded the death knell of the
bloomer costume. As a matter of fact,
the American dressmaker couldn't make
bloomers that were flt to wear, and go the
American woman had to stop trying to
wear them. The best of the French
bloomers are far more seemly for the
purpose ror wnicn tney are intenueu inan .
are skirts, but poor bloomers are an lm-'
possibility
After the downfall of the bloomer,
wheelwomen's costumes for a time went
from bad to worse; then they began to
grow more natty in appearance, until now
they are trim and smart without being,
at least for tho more vigorous riders, al
together up to athletic requirements.
The plain, round skirt of last season,
which is still In favor for the present
Summer, hinders free leg movement 'and
tires the rider. It Is necessarily made of
heavy goods that will keep the set of the
garment ana resist me wuiu. a.i auu iu
Its weight and further Insure Its stay
ing down. It has a band of the material
set on tho outside and finished with row
upon row of stitching, or else It follows
the fashion of the walking skirt and Is
laid In tucks or box plaits all the way'
around, these folds being stitched nearly
to the bottom.
From being made seven Inches from
the ground and then five inches, it now
lacks but three or four Inches of full
length, and Indeed may come quite to
the ankles when fully up to the limit in
point of style.
In favor of such an inconvenient gar
ment for wheeling there Is but one thing
to be said, which Is that the average
woman's rides are so short and taken at
cuch a moderate pace that she can afford
to sacrifice something for the sake of
combining in one dress her rainy day
suit, her golfing costume and her bicycle
outfit.
Divided Skirts.
The wheelwoman par excellence still
wears a divided skirt. She cannot afford
to sacrifice serviceability to style. A
bifurcated article recently ordered by
Mrs. George Gould has a trim black skirl
which Is surmounted by a cloth Jacket
of a vivid scarlet, relieved by a touch of
black In the braiding and the facing of
revers. A small scarlet hat with curling
black plumes completes an exceedingly
picturesque and cheerful outfit, though
one less suited, perhaps, to the exigencies
of dusty roads than the ordinary somber
grays and tans.
Mrs. C Oliver Iselln has not altogether
given up wheeling for the automobile.
Her latest bicycle costume consists of a
divided skirt of blue-gray, double-faced
cloth, with the under side finely checked
In blue and white. A fetching bolero
Jacket is to be worn with this skirt, open-
Ing upon a low-cut vest of scarlet cloth.
This vest is finished -with pockets enough I comely feet are wearing low shoes In
to satisfy the most exacting small boy, j. black or tan. with plain silk or lisle stock
and fastens with a row of small brass ings of good quality.
buttons. I Ah-oady the lightest, coolest-looking hats
But ?9 out of a hundred of this season's ' are on the market. Some are of soft serge
bicycle suits are made with round skirts. ' or cotton canvas, and have full crow ns
These are gored, not over full, and flt the
saddle gracefully. Some are plainly cut
at the waist and set In double plaits at
the back: others are tucked in one form
or another all the way around. There are
skirts that have pockets on the hips large
enough to hold a pistol, or a powder puff,
or a monkey wrench, according to the
needs or tastes of the rider, but most out
fits dispense with these conveniences and
approximate pocketless walking attire as
closely as possible.
At Reasonable Cost.
Some women are able to go to a first
class tailor and pay 5100 or more for a
bicycle suit The vast majority, however,
are not, for the bicycle is the poor wom
an's steed, as well as the poor man's. It
Is lucky, therefore, that there is no neces
sity for going to a tailor to get a well-cut,
mell-made, well-fitting suit, for in the
very best stores one can be had for any
price from $S 50 up to $50. No matter how
costly a suit Is, it Is bound to show In a
comparatively short time the wear and
tear of city or country riding, so that it
Is common sense, as well as economy, to
pay little for a suit and get new ones as
required.
A very pretty model that I have lately
seen has a skirt In tan covert coating.
This is laid all the way around in hollow
plaits, stitched to the level of the knees.
There Is a short, round-basqued ccat
whose revers are faced with red and which
opens over a white, plaited chemisette,
largely covered by a long red cravat of the
regatta pattern. The sleeves are trimmed
at the top with small plaits.
A blue linen hat trimmed with a red
band and with red, curling plumes Is to be
worn.
A second attractive costume Is of tan
cloth. It has a bell skirt forming two
plaits, which are stitched on both sides of
the apron and in the middle of the back.
There is a tight, stitched bolero which
fastens by two rows of large pearl
buttons. The facings of the small revers
are of purple taffeta. The sleeves are small
and stitched. Tho hat Is of khaki with a
purple band.
Pretty fawn-colored skirts and skirts o.
hunter's green are seen, and later In the
season the white skirts eo popular last
Summer will have another Inning.
Dark Skirt and Bright "Waist.
In general, the color scheme of the bi
cycle Hult Is different with women from
that adopted by men, who wear dark
coats and light breeches. Dark colors pre
vail In skirts, while brllllant-hued waists
are to be worn with them.
Especially prepared ror the use of the
bicyclist are blouses of endless variety.
Thero are those of madras and pique and
linen, and those more dainty of batiste
and fine lawn.
At once pretty and serviceable is a
blouse of white llnn printed with blue
flowers and. laid In fine plaits, both as to
bodice and sleeves. It has cuffs and a
wide sailor collar with rounded ends, which
are of white batiste embroidered In deli
cate colors. A black velvet belt and stock
are to be worn.
A second pretty waist Is of blue batiste
embroidered In openwork patterns.
Sleeves, fronts and collar are ornamented
with white batiste scalloped and embroid
ered. Tho comfort of riding depends largely
on the adoption of suitable footgear. "Wom
en show In this matter a tendency to ex
tremes of style which are equally unde
sirable. The folly of wcartng patent leath
er Louis Qulnze shoes with brown paper
soles Is fairly obvious, but scarcely better
are the heavy, clumsy shoes with half-lnch-thlck
soles affected by many who
pride themselves on putting utility before
vanity.
Thus shod the feet lose all flexibility
an essential quality for good riding. No
ork of ftny conseqUence Is done by the
, T. ...i,. .. h nuidi t,a ,,
foot. It merely rsts on the pedal, and the
ankle does, or should do, the rest. A light
shoe with moderate heel and sole of me
dium thickness. Is prescribed by every
consideration of comfort and suitability.
And as to height. Fashionable boot
makers say that only two classes of riders
are now buying high boots, the very stout
and the very angular. All women of fairly
finished with silk knots and perky-looking
wings. Some have broad brims and round
crowns dented In all around, like a bov's
,:HVr::''lllK:S,.,.:'a z fi'wn
if fl
TWO PRETTY BICYCLE BLOUSES.
hat. and some are smart, severe affairs of together across the chest by a large cabo
khakl or straw alplnce. All hats are chon. surrounded with some metal design,
trimmed more heavily than heretofore. The effect Is quite Russian.
Thu is especially true of the sailor, whose A chain of Imitation pearls has Its ends
new-time self with brilliant adornments
would hardly know Its old-time self with
plain ribbon band.
The Tam O'Shanter, the campaign bat
and the masculine bicycle cap are the op
posite of the demands of those who dress
In taste.
On the whole, the bicycle fashions this
year are prettier and more sensible than
those of last season. There Is more color
being worn, but the overdoing of this fea
ture Is always self-destructive, and har
mony In the end prevails over garlshness.
ELLEN OSBORN.
BARBARIC ADORXMEXT.
Metallic Jewelry of Every Sort to Be
"Worn ad Libitum.
Superlative is the only accurate descrip
tion of the metallic jewelry the season
Is bringing for women. It will be very
hard for even the women of ordinarily
most quiet tastes to refrain from dis
playing some of the new things. If the
present craze for much Jewelry doesn't
represent the climax, then another season,
sajs the New York Herald, jewelry will
be truly barbaric. One general principle
may be depended upon. Any pieoe of
jewelry of foreign or antique make that
can be attached anywhere to the gown
or worn about the person Is good form.
The more nearly It approaches the unique
and the more striking It Is In size the
happier its wearer should be.
But the girl who luxuriates in being
"faddy" will have wide scope for enjoy
ment. Her first duty will be to at once
start 'a collection of silver animal charms
and not rest until she resembles a peripa
tetic "Zoo." The really newest thing, ony
reaching retail counters during the last
week, Is the war bracelet. A twlsb Of
gold, or a plain silver ring Is hung with
either a three-inch Hon or a boar. If your
sympathies are all with England, the Brit
ish Hon will dangle at your wrist. Other
wise the Boer boar or the Transvaal
bracelet will be chosen. Smaller boars
and lions come for watch or chatelaine
charms, for brooches or hat pins.
One is not expected to begin and end
her Jewelry menagerie with the boar or
Hon. Lucky pigs, turtles, French poodles,
snakes and lizards were familiar subjects
for the Jeweler's art. Now it Is the fad
to acquire about every animal known, in
cluding lambs and full-grown sheep that
look like tapirs, owls, goats, a real one
horned rhinoceros, elephants, bears, dro
medaries, bisons and even donkeys. They
are about an Inch in length and made to
hang from a bracelet, bangle fashion, or
attached to a chain at intervals. The
only two beasts of any prominence the
Jewelers have not fashioned In silver are
ourang outangs and giraffes. The animal
hatpin Is to be quite the thing.
All In n Nutshell.
A quaint conceit, intended to be a close
friend to its owner, is styled "All In a nut
shell." The shell, like a large EngllEh
walnut. It Is of gold or sliver. "When It
opens in the center one-half the shell
holds an inch-long smelling bottle sur
rounded by four pearl-headed pins, for
use. The center partition of the shell Is
a tiny round looking glass, that lifts to
reveal just a dot of a powder puff, the
shell holding the needed powder.
For ties there is a large clasp, some
times all of steel, cut in facets, or of
gold decorated with cut steel. A coiled
snake Is another design. These form the
fronts of a clasp. 'In which is laid the
knot of the tie. They are very clever and
have quite an uncommon air.
With this tie clasp may be bought a
"La Florence" to match. La Florence
Is a flat ornament, either set with French
pearls orbrIHIants, or simply wrought in
steel, with a large pearl pendant from it.
The Princess Cantacazune had one as a
gift from the Prince. Worn from a flat
chain. It should hang just on the chest.
A buckle sometimes goes In this set with
the tie clasp and La Florence.
Another ornament on the order of La
Florence is a thick silver chain hanging
below the belt. Its ends finished wl.n
i heavy metal tassels. The chain Is held
finished with large Trench pearl pendants,
or with colored French pearls. The string
of pearls Is knotted close about the throat,
and great Ingenuity Is shown In devising
the most elaborate knots to tie.
The Nile and Egypt, the Sphinx and
the royal birds of the Pharoahs have
stamped their Influence on belts, buckles
and vest fastenings of every description. A
belt with the picturesque name of "The i
Cinch." "because It has a hook to catch
hold of the dress skirt binding, has a
gorgeous fleur de Us design to the rings J
finishing the fronts and also at the center
of the back. A favorite belt buckle Is In
one piece, very Egyptian In coloring and
In the headdress of the female figure set
in enamel upon It.
Rene Lnllrae.
Rene Lallme Is the name of an ornament
for the front of a ribbon belt, the metal
piece being at least eight inches from side
to side, and from each end hangs a
cameo or ornament on a five-inch chain.
Egyptian effects are secured by rows of
scarabel set between heads of the Sphinx.
'"When to a full set of tie clasps. La Flor
ence and Rene Lallme Is added a metal
bag purse and a few bracelets, there Is no
limit to weight or expense.
A most surprising renaissance of the ,
horseshoe has taken place. Just as one :
looks for some sign of the automobile In
Jewelry, the horseshoe has risen trium
phant. It comes In every rize, from an
Inch up to three. It Is long, and Iangily
narrow or squat and wide open. It Is
one row of pearls, or brilliants, or brlght
hued stones, or is only gun metal. Instead
of a circle or other pin at the back of
the hair, the newest thing Is the horse
shoe. Many of them are mounted for
hatpins, and still others for orjiaments
to be worn evenings In the coiffure. And
the curious thing Is that no one can ex
plain why It is revived.
XECICTIE MAY MAKE OR 3IAR. '
Must Be JiiHt So If She Would Be
n Correct Shlrt-Wnlst Girl.
Look to your necktie If you would be a
correct shirtwaist girl. From the fash
ion standpoint It can make or mar you.
The fluffy chiffon jabot worn with a ma
dras waist stamps the wearer at once
as hopelessly behind he times. There
fore, It behooves the up-to-date girl to
give a special heed to her neckwear.
Never wear a lace barb, no matter how
proud you are to own It, with a cotton,
cheviot or madras shirtwaist; also re
frain from wearing a lace collar or a slik
gauze bow wth a pique waist. The pique
shirtwaist will look Its smartest, when
worn with a pique necktie. It may be
either a pique stock, with a string necktie
of plaue tied in a small bow or a pique
Ascot puff. With the cotton cheviot waist
the necktie to match Is the most appro
priate. It may be tied In a bow, Ascot
or four-ln-hand. And a black satin stock
necktie Is not out of place.
Among the newest black satin stocks
are those with a Uttle turn-over white
Bilk hemstitched collar. This stock may
be worn with a white silk bow, with
fancy hemstitched ends, or a tightly-tied
black satin four-in-hand
A novelty of tne moment is a silk and
linen neckscarf, which Is quite correct to
wear with the outing shirtwaists. Thess
neckscarfs are extremely attractive, and
launder to perfection. The freshest and
prettiest are In white stripes, or plalded
In the pastel colors. They are wound about
the neck to form a stock, and then tie
In a bow, with short loops and long ends,
or an Ascot, or four-ln-hand.
The somewhat startling Rumchunda
neckties are being much worn. They look
extremely well with white waists or Rum
chunda waists. Neckties of very narrow
white silk, with the ends finished with a
tassel and ornamented with tiny buttons,
covered with silk threads, are among the
neckwear novelties. Another novelty la
the necktie of narrow silk ribbon, with
the ends of many strands of silk braided
and finished with a tassel.
The neckties and stocks to wear with
the elaborate shirt waist, which are dis
played In the New York shops, are, says
the Journal of that city, bewllderlngly
beaptlful. There are plaited stocks of
changeable chiffon, with a fluffy bow and
chiffon bows with silk embroidered ends,
as well as those with a border of ap
pllqued lace. Then there are exquisite
fllmy crepe scarfs with a printed design
which looks as If it were hand-painted
and the work of an artist. Some of these
scarfs have delicately shaded silk fringe,
which makes them even more beautiful.
The four-in-hands are not only of silk
and velvet, but of gauze and net. Those
of gauze Iiave the ends painted or hand
embroidered. The newest net neckties
have the ends ornamented with lace ap
pliques, which are outlined with shirred
baby .ribbon. For example, a white net
stock and four-ln-hand will have the
stock threaded with narrow black velvet
ribbons and the ends appliqued with ecru
lace outUned with black velvet baby
ribbon.
HAIR AND ITS CARE.
Useful Hint for Those "Who Want
Glossy Head Covering.
It Is said, says the New York Press, that
the hair ought to grow about eight Inches
a year. If your hair doesn't grow that
much the chances are that It needs treat
ment The clipping of the ends of the
hair should never be neglected. There
are superstitions that this should be done
In a certain sign of -the moon, and always
by a person other than the wearer of the
hair. But the chief value of these direc
tions la that It Insures the regular clip
ping of the ends, and that it Is easier
for some one else to do the clipping than
to do It one's self.
To make sure of a really good head ol
healthy, abundant hair the care of It
Ism tr .
COUPLE OF SMART BICYCLE SUITS.
should begin In childhood. If the- hair Is
neglected early In life It Is hard to coax
It Into a good condition later. However,
patience- and care will accomplish much
even then.
The head should be washed always In
rainwater. "Where this is not obtainable
add a little borax. Rinse thoroughly In
clean water afterward. Ammonia makes
the hair brittle, and is eald to hasten the
coming of gray hairs. "Washing soda
causes the hair to become streaked.
CostHe or tar soap is best. If one uses
soap at all. If the hair ia too oily soap
bark may be used advantageously. If the
oil Is deficient, a little glycerine or vase
line is beneficial.
Yolk of as Egg.
Some persons use the beaten yolk of an
egg with good results. It should be used
with lukewarm water and rinsed off In
clear, cold water. It !s hetter to dry the
hair slowly? rubbing the scalp and lifting
the hair from time to time, than to fan it
or to apply artificial heat, as is done fre
quently. "When dry the hair should be
brushed thoroughly, the more the better.
Brushing the hair for ten minutes every
night before retiring Is an excellent means
of preventing disease of the scalp and se
curing glossy hair.
Buy good brushes and combs; they are
far cheaper In the end. A good plain
brush will cost ?1 or 51 50, and a celluloid
or rubber comb about 50 cents. The brush
should be cleaned frequently 'by dipping
the bristles In hot water containing a lit
tle ammonia and rinsing In cold water
with a little lemon juice. It should then
be placed, bristles up, to dry. The comb
may be cleansed bf washing In tenld
soapy water and rubbing dry with a soft
cloth, then removing any particles that
may remain between the teeth by pass
Ing a silk thread between them. The use
of a fine comb is undesirable, and for
heavy hair an especially coarse comb is
preferable.
A simple prescription for a dandruff lo
tion Is this: One drachm of borax, one
drachm of sulphur, one drachm of glycer
ine and eight ounces of water. The mix
ture should be shaken before using and
well rubbed into the scalp with the fin
gers or a small brush. A good tonic for
the hair is made by combining a quart
of bay rum, half a cupful of salt, a
drachm of castoroll and a drachm of
tincture of cantharldes. This may be ap.
plied once or twice a week with good re
sults. Don't Ue 'Em.
In regard to hair dyes the best advice
Is: Don't use them. Not because they
are Injurious, for many are perfectly
harmless, but because dyed hair is not
likely to be half so becoming as white or
gray hair when one reaches the age for It,
or even If It comes prematurely.
There are exceptional persons, however,
to whom gray hair Is unbecoming. For
their benefit this prescription is given:
Boil an ounce of gall nuts and two ounces
of Iron filings in a pint of vinegar until
the quantity is reduced one-half. The hair
should be washed in soap bark before ap
plying the dye with a comb, after which
It should be dried in the sun. This dye
will have to be applied once a month to
keep the hair dark.
Almost any hairdresser has dyes that
are effective and safe and will apply them
more skillfully with less danger of getting
them on the scalp than one can-possibly
do for one's self.
BELTS ALL THE VOGUE.
Much More Important Dresa Acces
sory Than Heretofore.
The belt Is a much more Important dress
accessory than It used to be. Now not
only must It be In the very latest fash
Ion, but It must be worn In the most ap
proved way. It must dip in front suf
ficiently to produce the much-to-be de
sired long-walsted effect. For unless It be
worn correctly. It endangers the whole
smart effect of the costume. Many of
the belts to wear with shirt waists are
conspicuously narrow. The very latest
thing in belts for the outdoor girl Is one
of red leather, not more than an Inch and
a half wide and fastening at each side
with a brass buckle. Narrow black suede
belts; with a small girdle effect In front
and fastening at the side with oxidized s'l
ver buckles, are also fashionably correct.
To wear with pique shirt waLsts the
proper belt is of pique, and madras belts
are sold to match the madras waists. The
buckles which fasten these wash belts are
always plain and Inexpensive. The twist
ed leather whip belts are still good style
for outing wear. They are generally of
tan leather, and fasten In a cinch knot.
Belts of narrow strips of leather, the
strips fastened together here and there
with buckles, are among the season's nov
elties. These belts have the strips ar
ranged to taper toward the front. Black
velvet belts striped with narrow gold braid
are worn, fastened In front with a gold
snake twisted to form a buckle.
The pulley belts are no longer of plain
ribbon. They come now in the gayest of
ribbons, and many of them are hand em
broidered and spangled. The rings add
much to their cost. For example, a whito
and baby Dlue rlbobn belt, with silk hem
stitching between the stripes, will be
made, with rings of blue enameled forget-me-nots.
Others ere made up with
solid gold rings and silver rings, studded
with bite of amethyst or turquoise.
Any number of belts this year are made
with the girdle effect. Then there are the
soft broad belts of slik, which are made
purposely to be worn with the short bo
lero jackets. They are charming on the
girl with the long, slender waist when
they are made of the new soft Loulslne
silk in changeable colors. In the pastel
shades, and fastening with one of the new
floral pastel buckles, these belts are most
artistic Silver Is the foundation of the
pastel buckles, but It is tinted and shaded
In all the delicate colors.
WOMAN
9 -SJ
Co-Education.
In former dars. which m&nr prahve.
When people -wanted knowledge.
The girls wera sent to boarding school.
The boys went to college.
A frog In the marsh, tho his vole was harsh.
Took In the situation;
"Co-ed, co-ed. co-ed,' ho said.
Ho meant co-education.
Hurrah for the frog
That sat in the bog
And solved for this great Nation
A question so vast.
In times now post.
And gave us co-education.
Songs of All the College.
GRAD1NGH0USESERVANTS
Recent Suggestions of Woman's
Cluh Aaeat Mlxtress and. Maid
Carefally Considered.
The Idea of grading house servants In
classes, according to their proficiency In
their work, as recently suggested by the
Woman's Club, of Portland, Is an unique
one to me. at least. I have been puz
zling my brains which,! fear, don't, shine
In a domestic line as to how this Is to
be done. Are the girls to be stood up In
a row and questioned, a due percentage
being marked on answers? Or will ihey
be Tequlred to hand in papers on culinary
affairs, which will decide their status, and
wages?
Or are the candidates for classification
to demonstrate practically their ability or
want of abiUty. to manage the kitchen
and dining-room; to answer the bell, do
the chamber work, the washing. Ironing,
scrubbing, with odd enas of baby-tending
and yard-cleaning, and many another duty
pertaining to the lot of the maia-or-au-work?
For the average Portland "girl'
Is Just that.
In whatever way these ladies propose
to grade servants; and wages, I fear that
they will meet with difficulties by the way
side that must be reckoned with.
For instance, a girl may have a genius
for cooking, and a talent for keeping the
kitchen In a "mess" of disorder. She
may be an expert at washing, and but an
Indifferent Ironer, a splendid scrubber and
a. poor mopper. Her talents may begin,
and end, in an immaculate cleanliness that
is next to godliness good, lit its way.
But, meantime, one can t dine on sparic
llng glassware, or polished stoves. The In
ner man and I mean man requires pal
atable food, well served.
Moxaentona Problem.
But how to grade these unequally
equipped servants?
The good cook might be docked 10 per
cent for slovenliness, and .so on. "Tinker
ing the tariff" would be a sinecure, in
comparison.
The committee on gTadlng might make
a house-to-house visitation, getting infor
mation, at first-hand, from the employers.
But, alas! no two women agree on these
matters, which renders such data unre
liable. Mrs. Brown employs a girl highly rec
ommended by Mtb. Jones, and finds her a
poor cook. Perhaps her specialties are
French-fried potatoes, and popcorn pud
ding, dishes of which Mrs. Jones Is no
tably fond.
And again, if Mrs. Smith has an all
around good girl, at a reasonable wage,
Is It likely that she will praise her ro
highly that her wages must be raised?
"Oh, yes, Gretchen Is a good servant,
as servants go; but you know, mesdamea
committee, that none of them Is .perfect.
And, really, speaking or first-class girl3,
Mrs. Robinson's new cook, Bridget, Js
much better than Gretchen a Jewel, In
fact. I quite envy Mrs. Robinson; she
secures such excellent girls, at such a
low wage," etc
Thus Mrs. S. protects her own Interests
and repays Mrs. R. for that most flagrant
of neighborly offenses, the coaxing of a
splendid cook from Mrs. Smith's very
kitchen, by the simple expedient of offer
ing $1 more a month for her services.
These are the things that rankle In the
tender breasts of women until duly re
paid. I fear that all the grading In the world
will never settle this vexed servant prob
lem, which, after all. Is In a manner self
regulating. The unsatisfactory maid will
receive high pay, only so long as her em
ployer Is Ignorant of her ignorance. And
when she of whom not much was expect
ed, proves to be excellent, her mistress
must needs pay her duly, or lose her. No
competent servant remains long In Ignor
ance of her own market value.
Turn About I Fair Playi
This movement Is caused by an unselfish
desire to benefit the two classes concerned.
Then why not grade the mistresses, too?
Words would fail to tell how badly some
of them need to be ticketed, according to
their treatment of those subject to them.
If the servants should scale their em
ployers as good, bad and Indifferent, by
some secret marks above the kitchen sink,
what an upheaval there would be, to be
sure!
The woman who allows the maid but one
afternoon out per week would certainly
sit below the salt- The person who Is
vfm4A
Bicycle Wnlst, With Bretelle.
stingy of praise, and pay. but lavish of
Interference and fault-nndlng, would nat
urally toe the mark, at the foot of the
class.
But, horrors! It has Just occurred to
me. If this question were shelved, what
should we do for the wherewithal to fill
our conversational gaps? The latest
echoes from kltchenland furnish padding
for many an aching vola.
And thl3 theme, like the boy's knife,
cuts both ways. While the lady In the
parlor Is praising or blessing-the .one in
the kitchen, the latter Is probably at the
telephone, regaling her friend with the
virtues or foibles of the woman o' the
house.
All things considered, perhaps It would
"i&Tfi &mmzvby&
' sj
T-Sjr .j
be better to let these matters- jog along
In the same 'old way, until the-millennium,
when, flippantly speaking, the mistress
and the mala sbalLlie down together.
MART C, BELL.
WOMATf'S PROGRESS IN JAPAIf.
Yarioa Flourishing Societies la tie
Mllcado'a Empire. .
'"Women's organizations In Japan are
called societies rather than clubs," said
Ume Tsuda, of Toklo, in a recent letter to
a clubwoman of New Yorki "The word
club," continued the writer, "prejudice
many people and so we prefer the other
term, society. Our work In these socie
ties is not much like club work In Ameri
ca, partially because our women are re
tiring and partially because there Is lit
tle social life of any kind for our women,
or for men and women together.
"The Women's Educational Society,
which meets once a month, has for Its
President Princess Mori. Its member
ship is about 500. The Sanitary Associa
tion also meets monthly. Both organiza
tions have lecturers, who occupy from one
to two hours at each session. The latter
society has between 300 and 400- members.
The character of the Interrogation Society
is more like that of an American club.
Its object Is to bring up useful topics for
discussion. At each meeting an original
paper Is read by one of the members, and
this is followed by a discussion. This so
ciety has about 50 active members.
"The Monday Club, which was formed
during the last year by a number of for
eign residents with some prominent native
women, has for Its purpose Instruction
and social enjoyment. This meets every
two weeks during the eeason. A short
lecture In either Japanese or English, in
terpreted so that all may understand. Is
given at each meeting. The membership
of this society Is limited to SO.
"Besides these are associations for work
among Christian women, the Women's
Christian Temperance Union, a society
to promote home study by correspondence
the women's branch of the Red Cross
hospital work, and the Charity Hospital,
which was founded by the Empress.
"Our women, of course, need experience,
and our work in these lines is a mere be
ginning. We aro not used to going about
like American women do, and for this rea
son it Is difficult to get the members to
be refTuIar In attendance, even when they
wish to do their part faithfully. In my
oplniqn the old social customs hinder the
progress of such work. I believe much
more can be done now to foster a taste
for intellectual pursuits and for social
life through school work and life among
the young glrle."
nOW HE GOT HEU. t
Early Hlndn Account of the Creation
of Woman.
At the beginning of time, Twashtrl the
Vulcan of the Hindu mythology created
the world. But when he wished to .create
a woman he found that he had employed
all his materials In the creation of man.
There did not remain one solid element
Then T., 'perplexed, fell Into a profound
meditation. He roused himself to do as
follows:
He took the roundness of the moon, tne
undulations of the serpent, the entwlne-
nees of climbing plants, the trembling ol
the grass, the slenderness of the rose vine
and the velvet of the flower, the light
ness of the leaf and the glance of the
fawn, tht gayety of the sun's days and the
tears of the mist, the Inconstancy of the
wind and the timidity of the hare, the
vanity of the peacock and the softness of
the down on the throat of the swallow,
the hardness of the diamond, the sweet
flavor Of honey and tho cruelty of the
tiger, the warmth of Are, the chill of
snow, the Chatter, of the jay and the coo
ing of the turtle dove. He united all thl3
and formed a woman. Then he made a
present of her to man. Eight days lateT
the man came to Twashtrl and said:
"My lord, the creature ou gave me pois
ons my existence. She chatters without
rest, she takes all my time, she laments
for nothing at all and Is always 111." And
T. received the woman again.
But eight days later the man came again
to the god aid said: "My lord, my life Is
very solitary since I returned this crea
ture. I remember 9he danced before me,
singing. I recall how she glanced at mo
from the corner of her eye, that she.
played with me, clung to me." And
Twashtrl returned the woman to him.
Three days only passed, and T. saw the
man coming to him again. "My lord," said
he, "I do not understand exactly how,
but I am sure that the woman causes
me more annoyance than pleasure.' I beg
of you relieve me of her."
But T. cried: "Go your way and do your
best." And the man cried: "I cannot
live with her!" "Neither can you llvo.
without her," replied T.
And the man was sorrowful, murmur
ing: "Woe Is me, I can neither live with
or without her."
This Is found In an English translation of
a book of Hindu legends recently discov
ered. The title of the book 13 "Of a
Finger of the Moon Reddened by the Set
ting Sun," and Is the sixth part of a large
work, "The Surging of the Ocean, of
Time." It Is written In Sanskrit, and the
original manusejiBVrwas given to an Eng
Ushman Mr: Bain by an old Brahmin
dying of the plague. The other five parts
are not translated.
TOO MUCH CLUB.
Women Beginning to Find Federa
tion an Expensive Luxury.
Women are discovering that there 13
such a thing as too much club. One of the
clubs of Chicago, says the Chronicle of
that city, has decided to withdraw from
the National Federation of Women's Clubs
on the score that the game Is not worth
the candle. It Is found out a little late
that money .:an be put to better use than
paying traveling expenses and hotel bills
for other women, who shed no new light
on the practical aspect of affairs in this
mundane sphere, but who enjoy the out
ings and the Imaginary glory of such oc
casions. Federations are cOBtly extrava
gances, wasteful of time, engenderers of
heart-burnings and that is chiefly all.
More time spent In their households and
less In meddling with things beyond the
Teach of amateurish effort will tend to In
crease domestic happiness and lessen the
activity of the federated divorce court
of the country. A statistician nas recent
ly Invented the phrase "unattached
wives," and traced Its origin to the fad
of "federations" of women who. without
always seeking and generally being un
entitled to divorce, live practically apart
from the conjugal tie. inflict wrongs upon
children and send husbands morally adrift.
The women's clubs are not without blame
In the extension of social looseness In
the United States. They have theTr mer
its. But the best Institutions may be car
ried to excess. Less federation and more
domestic devotion will only enhance the
merits of women clubdom.
Wanted a Jfew Dress.
It was a beautiful myth which the
Greeks had concerning the tears and
smiles of April. The Greeks, with genu
ine poetic insight, personified nature In
the figure of a lovely woman. Her they
represented as weeping violently in the
Spring for a new green dress with wraps
to match. And having got these things,
as was of course Inevitable, she smiled.
Anybody who understands the dynamic
force of woman's tears will recognize at
once the singular propriety of ascribing to
the action of these the tremendous phe
nomena of the vernal season. Detroit
Journal.
i