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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 15, 1900)
HHRfnZj rw? 28 THE SUNDAY OBEGONIAN, PORTLAND APRIL 15, 1900. F- ' a- 'JO. "ea ert-w? bnde&it.) AflLenimp.wiftiagan(e.ian?. .. WaOTSWIYJdMlllfflLTdir. On mnvHBfle ire rnid dppedrj no fB5 left or beraen rears, n owecr sav and CfPonair:. Trial siviisK jv$ ifww A j fore Tonowir l and fommwr. ,. tehvMjfpunwchlhiy,! iM affeir AlaJif? cout?Jv 5ire ihe su&lle jrwire ii - f - :..il.:. a. . a ! einoijiiw.ivftuitai . newHjfnerHvejiKar. AiCareriine. HertHlTlwe?' GOTHAM'S EASTER SHOW Ellen Osborn Tells of Anticipated Jfoveltles of jVevr York's. Cay Carnlial of Fnalilon. NEW YORK. April 10. Are we to wear pannlered dresses? Easter Sunday is not so distinctly an opening day in Vanity Fair as formerly, but It Is still tho dividing line between Winter and Summer fashions, and it is etlll to the gay, traditional parade that we look for tho settlement of moot ques tions. Will panniers appear in the Easter pro fession? Pannlered dresses have been brought from Paris. The shops show them; they Siave been worn at the opera, nt restau rants and at evening parties by a few ex tremists or experimentalists. Will they be accepted by women in general? No one expects It. The hoopsklrt scare of a few years ago failed to materialize. The American "beauty was told with emphasis that pres ently she would be overturning all her spider-legged tables and breaking her S o'clock teapot and denuding her divan of its threescore cushions and pushing all ier impedimenta to the wall in her cry lor space spacel Yet, Instead of crinoline, she wore eel ekln skirts! So now. In the new contest between Watteau and David. Mario Antoinette and the Empress Josephine, the affected sim plicity of the pseudo-pastoral dress, with Its looped ovcrsklrt, gathered with roses. Is likely to yield, as it did at tho close cf the last century, to the high waist and straight lines of the classical Empire -gown-.- TBteanhlered dress is a freak, a whim, aind"nr likely so to remain. Yet fashions iare as uncertain as the stock markets. Panniers aro worth watching. Flowered Underskirts. The quaintest and most piquant of the Watteau dresses yet finished show flow 'ered underskirts, with overekirta of dif ferent materials, opening In front and draped on tho hips. They assimilate them selves to the prevailing mode by a lavish base of tucks and plaltlngs. A model dress of this order is made of "Venetian cloth, of a mauve so pale as to be only a shade or two removed from white. The front of the eklrt has a panel of figured panne of a deeper mauve tone; the sides and back are of cloth laid In flat plaits, stitched down. Small pan niers aro laid in fino folds about the hips, seeming to be held by large silver claspj at the waist In front and behind. The bodice of this dress has a vest of panne; Venetian cloth Is draped flcbuwlso about the shoulders and carried In flnt tucks down, to tho waist line. Panniers aside, the Easter parado will show more vagaries of decoration than distinct novelties of dress. The dominant note will be 'an insistence' on the perpen dicular line. Dresses are tucked from top to bottom, and the variety of tucks is 11ml tics. There aro wide, folded tucks for slender people, and for the fleshy, tucks so fine that the material is barely nipped. Tucks are arranged singly and in congregations. The only imperative rule to be followed regards the fitting of the skirt to tho fig ure at the hips, below which four and even five yards of material may be al lowed. Tho newest form of bodice is a blouse, pouched all around over a high corselet, and making a distinct approach to the Empiro modes. Elbow sleeves are offered for evening wear, and even for afternoon dress. Half-length sleeves, ending In a full ruffle, will be used for almost any kind of dress at almost any hour of the day. Reversible "Woolens. Among the tailor-made dresses which will undoubtedly take first rank in the Easter parade, there will be noticed re versible woolens in charming colors, such ea fine, pale beige backed with orange, and black and white checks with an un der side of strawberry color. Such cloth Is made up without a lining, and tht contrasting color is used for band trim mings. Striped, figured and broche woolens are practically out of the market. In their atead are all sorts of embroidered mate FASHIONS Ms Mr- rials. Tho handsomest robe dresses are made with designs cut in the cloth, over tulle foundations, or to open work em broidery in silk Is placed upon tho cloth Itself without 'any under lining. With a plaited skirt and a high belt of silk or velvet, the effect of a pale pastel cloth blouse or flgaro with such cloth lacework is as charming as it Is simple. With such materials as veiling and gren adine, which easily fray and cannot there fore bo cut out, are used bright-colored applications of Turkish embroidery, re lieved by a white cord at the edge. The new foulards and batistes are love lier than ever, with their tulle and lace Incrustations and embroidery edges, but these will watt for a warmer sun than that of Easter before displaying their glories. 4 The serpent has again entered Eden. It hisses from under tho flowers of tho Easter hats and twists and twines itself about tho bodices of tho prettiest Easter gowns. At the annual breakfast yester day of a big woman's club where the fashion display was brilliant, I saw snakes all the afternoon, though cotfeo was the strongest beverage. Elegant Dinner Gown. A simple but very elegant dinner dress lately worn by Mrs. Stuyvcsant Fish was composed of soft, green satin, of the shado of a lotus leaf. The skirt, original to the point of eccentricity, was abso lutely plain. The left sldo of tho low corsage was draped under a clasp of Jewels, while the right was decorated with a knot of lace. About the right arm was wound a good-sized snake of green sequins. A long gauze scarf, in chang ing shades of green and pink, was laid about the shoulders. Grapes, presumably not sour, will be within the reach of every Easter girl. They not only adorn her hat, but they also hang In clusters from her dress, sim ulated in silk and chenille. A model cos tume displayed at one of the big shops has tho skirt adorned with lozenges of lace, graduated In size from top to bot tom, the pattern of each lozenge being a trellis work of lace, from between the bars of which droop and sway silk and chcnillo grapes of good size. A remarkable proportion of the Easter hats aro red bright red; red gauze, red ribbon, red currants: red and flaming. Others are pink; others, .many, many others, are In autumn colors. Blackberry hats, covered with mottled leaves and fruit, are numerous. So are hats decked with pine needles and cones. Hats woven of pea vines and pods look like a handful out of a vegetable garden. Easter will seo the most amazing uses made of straw. In wide bands, it li knotted into flaring bows for the trimming of sailor hats. In narrow bands It to doubled Into huge chrysanthemum ros ottes. Leaves, feathers, flowers, even birds are fashioned from the newest and most supple weaves. "Will Pass Them On. Tho enormous cabbage heads of chif fon, sometimes with flower centers, that are applied indiscriminately to all hats are being overdone. People of refinement will yield them to the mob. along with the flapping parasol hats, with their many drooping ruffles of lace and tulle, and the hats with the wonderfully complex, in voluted crowns. The bicycle girl does not wait for Easter before coming out in her spring costume. April 1 marks the beginning of her season. This year's cycling skirts are tucked and plaited like an ordinary walking skirt, but In other respects they vary little from last year's. The continued popularity of the circular skirt Is far. from, being assured. Divided s-.V 111 iissssssssr VJ aCiVv rl Hi JiTM' it ijl J It! mt 1 I Hi if HAta-I Ktf " rV Vtsssl0! 1 II vM;ly Ml i f'firK vx I jg7 ?."" X?Wf The Krpent attain Icranti Eve. Til 4v- skirts are worn by such leaders of fash ion ad Mrs. George Gould, Mrs. C Olivet Iselln. Mrs. Fred Vanderbllt. Lady Cur- zon and others, but the majority of the skirts now in use have the cut and the hang of a golf skirt and reach to within four Inches of the ground. Stitched bands of cloth or leather straps ore the approved trimmings. Eton coats or flgaros are worn, and considerable lat itude Is allowed as to color. For headwear there Is a new crop of sailor hats and of Summer felts, as well as tho cool and comfortable khaki bat. with bands of bright trimming. ELLA OSBORN. WnAT 3IEX TVIM. VBUU Proper Spring; and Summer Styles for the Sterner Sex. Although the cut of men's garments has varied little between this season and last. It is safe to say, according to the Mall and Express, of New York; that at no previous period in the history of the sar torial art have men been as well dressed In every particular as in this. One feature of this Spring's materials Is the designs, which have heretofore been -unrivaled. The continued popularity of the Scotch tweeds and similar materials rough worsteds and cheviots has devel oped beautiful patterns heretofore un matched. The herring-bone stripe, which is still seen to a certain extent in its origi nal simple form, has been the basic ma terial for many extremely novel elabora tions, though the original plain herring bone can hardly be called up to date. The present herring-bone may have a lit tle sub-pattern running through it. Per haps a large over-plaid in fine red, blue, green or brown lines may be added to give the material distinctive character. Green shadings are particularly nobby. These run from light verdure greens to deep olives, shading Into rich browns. Flannels Still Popular. Flannels are to be even more popular than they were last season, and the pat terns shown by the leading New York tai lors are extremely attractive. The va riety of patterns leaves arnplo leeway for all. Blues and grays will .predominate, striped with other shades of self, or dif ferent colors. If made without lining, the flnanel 'suit Is quite as cool as can be found, and makes a neat effect, combined with a negligee shirt, although a waist coat, either in the same material, or of washable goods, may be worn. During the warm months these suits will be worn by business men. and they will form an Indispensable adjunct to the wardrobe for mountain or seashore. The coat pockets should be sewn onto the out side of the garment, and the trousers may have a liberal allowance for turn-up. A lightweight felt hat, cap or straw hat accompanies the suit and halt shoes of tan. Half shoes, or Oxford ties, as they aro also known, will be very popular with all modes of dress this Summer. Tho Londoner is not content with wear ing half shoes with his street clothes, but must put on the low pump slipper in the evening. Just as surely as he wears his drefa suit or dinner coat. It makes no difference whether he Is going to a theater, a dinner, a dance or merely to make a call, ho would as soon think of leaving off his necktie as his pumps. Heavy Summer Shoes. A popular thing In the Oxford tie Is a vamp of enamel or patent leather, with the upper of kid or some other plain leather. Perforated tips and margins will be quite as fashionable the coming season as they have been in the past. The ten dency to heavy shoes for summer Is grow ing each season. One of the best-known makers of footwear In New York said: "The idea of having light shoes In sum mer is all wrong. The sidewalks are never so hot to any one as they are to the little boy who goes barefoot. This shows that there should be considerable sole between tho foot and the ground. Another good point in a substantial sum mer shoe Is that tho foot has much more chance for exercise in a light shoe, and must of necessity perspire more. In the heavy shoe the foot is supported and does not move so much. The more ono moves in the heat the warmer one gets." "DRESSMAKER'S HYSTERICS." "Tailor-Hade Spines," "Milliner's Squint," and "Slcn." "Shopping." sold tho woman physician, leaning back in her easy chair, '.'is the white woman's burden. It la the popular belief among men that a good long day of haggling over samples and wrestling with dressmakers is the. sort of thing that renders the sex I have the honor to rep resent truly happy. But aa it' happens, what men in general and husbands in particular don't know about women would fill books for all the libraries Andrew Carnegie can ever build. "You may quote me as saying that shop ping is about the heaviest task feminine mind and muscle are called upon to en dure. It is the kind of responsibility that paves the way to nervous prostration, and tho worst of it is, shopping grows a more complicated and exhausting duty every day. A halt century ago, if a fashionable member of society devoted two hours out of every 12 to her dress, she was enabled to keep right up to the standard of the mode. Today, four hours will hardly suffice, lor me mere purcnasing ana trying on. and for every one dress requisite 20 years ago, five are now essential for the keep ing up of appearances; and while the de- stands in dress have grown greater, tba facilities for securing tho elaborate cos tuming necesrary are not Improved. Wo physicians are ablo to reallzo this because of the curlbua and ominous human ail ments that are the outgrowth of overtax ing the system at shopping, "Dressmaker's ifysterles." ""'Tor example, there Is hardly a week goes by that I am not called In to look after & well-defined caee cf dressmaker's hysterics, directly 'due to great mental and muscular exhaustion over a gown that the conscienceless seamstress falls to send home In time for the date and occasion for which It has been planned. These attacks are Invariably aggravated by tha husband, who Jokes apd jeers at the very moment wlen every soothing Influence Id needed for the sufferer. .1 have known distinctly serious casea of nervous pros tration following too much fitting and matching succeeded by too frequent dis appointments. "Ten years ago 'the tailor-made spine,' as we call it now for lack of a better name, and 'the milliner's squint were al most unknown to physicians, whereas at present wo deal with such afflictions dally. The first results from the long hours'spent . standing before a mirror lri a tailor's fit' ting-room caught In a briar patch of pins while the proper line of coat or skirt is achieved. There is no royal road to a glove-fitting tailor suit save by posing hours at a time, without flinching a spe cies of endurance and slavery only the modern woman has ever known, and the consequence of which is hordes of exqui sitely gowned women, pallid of cheek and haggard of eye, hurrying here for elec tric treatment, and big business for tho masseuse As to 'the milliner's squint'" But here the reporter of the Philadelphia Inquirer dropped In a modest inquiry that the pettlcoatcd Galen listened to quite good naturedly. Common Masculine Error. "Now, my dear young friend," she an swered gently, "don't drop into the coin- mon masculine error of believing that j women, dress for vanitys soke and suffer such hardships merely to gratify a lust for clothes. The American woman is the best-dressed of her sex In the world, gives to her toilets her time, her brains, nay, almost her very life blood. WhyT "Chiefly because the American man is the most exacting husband In the world, as regards the splendor of his wife's appear ance. She may not be a good house keeper, accomplished, or even beautiful, but she must dresa well. Her fine gowns appeal to his sense of beauty; signify to the world his generosity and business cleverness, and furthermore, and not least Important, they prove the prosperity of the country. "Women shop to make tho wheels of commerce go round, and so soon as our patient, long-suffering, much-enduring American women quit shopping and throw off the tyranny of tho tailor, milliner and dressmaker. Just so soon will all Fridays be black and all Mondays blue and the foundations of finance crumble." DAME FASHION'S ABODE. "Palace of Costnme" at the Ble Paris Exposition. -At ono side of the Eiffel Tower, writes the Paris correspondent of the Chicago Times-Herald, will be found an attraction of special Interest to women. Probably no one but a Frenchman would conceive the 'Idea of spending 1200.000 on an exhibition of costumes, but M. Felix probably knows what he Is doing, for he "has been a suc cessful Parisian dressmaker for many years. He has erected a big building that he Is pleased to call the Palace of Cos tume, and bo Intends to fill it with re productions of women's dresses at various epochs from ancient times down to the third Napoleon. Let not the masculine reader sniff in disdain. Let him recall how often he has seen members of his sex stand In awe before the wax figures of cheap museums. Being French. M. Felix is artistic. Ho wlUnot only have figures to wear the clothes he has designed, but he will rep resent famous characters and group them In tableaux reproducing famous incidents In history. As a consequence he will have to Introduce a few female figures to prop erly fill out the tableaux, but these are only to play a secondary part In his scheme. He will begin with a group ot ancient Gauls, surprised and frightened by the approach of an army of Roman in vaders. Marie of Burgundy will be shown In a costume or her period, Blanche of Castillo will be represnted In a cloistered retreat. Catherine de Medici will be seen In regal nttlre. In the act of making a vlrft to Rugglerl, the famous astrologer. There will be a representation of Henry IV and O&brielliv nnrt tho rarointlitn viofiiino of Jospnhln -trfcli-h 1c M,t In kin. roxt nmr. tv rmmi in isai . t , imif.,i .n, ...,.. With such appeals to her love of dress, beauty, romance and mysticism, how can any woman resist the temptation to con tribute a few francs to M. Felix's fund, and if the wives explore the Palace of Costume, how can the husbands escape! Wise monsieur! What a "barrel" he will have next November! Naturally this sort of a show cannot be gotten up on the Instant, and M. Felix claims to have had dressmakers, artists, sculptors and decorators at work for two i1 ---'- i ii i ,i p , vJKwShDbI r7Ltr'?iLtv flF.'Zw TrfViV Jv AwMi jllliRI SMART TOGS FOR CYCLIXQ.- years. The museums of Europe have been ransacked for Illustrations showing cos tumes, furniture, etc The slse of his building indicate an extensive exhibit. The Parisian Academy of Hairdressers Is to have & section of a gallery for an ex hibition of its art. It will reproduce an old section of the Pala's Royal, showing hairdressers in the costumes of Louis XV and XVI. What more could the feminine heart wish? DAIVTTER FOOTGEAR. Becoming; Boots and Shoes Replacing; Maseallite Styles. Shoes for Spring are not mannish as they- have been for the past few years. Heels are made higher, insteps arched and altogether shoes are shapely and pretty. Women are beginning to realize that a daintily shod foot is the essential, most noticeable part of their toilet, and Intend discarding the heavy, masculine shoe. They are making an unusual effort to have their feet look thoroughly chic, small and feminine, as they did years ago. before they ran to the razor-toe. high- heeled mode. After a run on the "razor toe." Fashion went to the other extreme and adopted the flat heel and broad, square toe. finally drifting to men's shoes, a style now to be worn for golf only. The real smart girl will clothe her feet in high-buttoned or laced patent leather boots not shoes, there is a distinction be tween the two until the first Intimation of warm weather, when she will go Into Oxfords and russets. Tho two strictly leading styles aro the patent leather low shoe and patent leather boot. In regard to the proper clze heel, the Louis XV is the most distinctive fea ture between the house and street Bhoc. For the seashore, black and white canvas Oxfords will be worn during the morn ing. Black patent leather oxfords, slip pers in black kid, bronze and to match the gown will be popular, and tho one point noticeable in all grades of shoes, boots and slippers is the neat, round, sensible-looking brood toe and moderately high, shapely heel. Artistic Kimono. We have to thank those true artists, the Japs, for many of our artistic Ideas, but it Is to the women of the Flowery Kingdom ono must pay homage for creat ing that marvel of elegant simplicity, the klmona. so woll known to those who have knowledge of the Japanese woman's at Uro. They are being much worn, and come In French embroidered flannel, fine satin-striped challles. China silk, "cash merein fact, everything with a ten dency to cling. Silk crepe, trimmed in Persian passementerie, mnkefl a most charming one. A great number of ac tresses wear them constantly in their dressing-rooms, when not In a hurry to dress for the stage, which is conclusive cnought that If the klmona did not pos sess real merit, theso women, who know how to got the worth of things, would not wear them. The Snmmer AValst. Xt.iT doth tba Festive Summer walat appear upon Tba acme. In erery shade From white to red. and Hundmls In between; It dazxleth every manly ere. And stretcheth Eery neck. And malreth am'roto fellows Haate to follow At tier beck As Oovrn the street In Rlad array Fair Porto lightly trtpa. A vision rare From aiikle neat to Dainty flnor tips; And there are Heats of other all most Gleefully parade. With some In stripes And some In plaids and some In check arrayed. And some are allken. soma Are wool. Home linen. Some piquet And e'en the flannel and Xcarrtlk are seen In tha array; And tone do blaze like Coala of Are. whllo some are Verdant quite. And erery shade- of I Tellow, brown, blue, red. green Is la etsht; And thus, when warming zephyrs Kiss the early leanng . Tre. the streets 1 Beom kaleidoscope ' ftmlnlnlty; I Ana marvel or all marvels'. Each ur;Kai u...-:, kttu iooi . l "" " ' I owiiim. . Of all That company! All maidens love the Eummer waist, the waist of Giddy hue; and Laddies lore to love the maids, who Love this loving, too! So here's a toaK. a merry toast. To maiden sweet encased Within the I Gey. alluring, neat and giddy I Eummer walstl J. W. W. la New Tork Sun. By Mither-In-LaTT. When I courted wl' Maggie her mlther did cry That um could bet suited like Maggie and "I; But since we've cot marriet a chenge Is owrt a': Koo. I canna. get on wl her mlther ava. When she tak'a a rln up by tha nresdde she aits. An gets on to Maggie for cleaning my baits; She says, "Dlnna learn him ale fashion ava"; She's a mlddlcsome lady, my mlther-ln-law. She picks fauts wl this and she picks fauts wl' that; She even picks rauta wl' our Innocent cat. She scolds at our wean when he greets on his maw; She's a heldstrose" auld lady, my mlther-tn-law. When she speaks o' cur neebours she rlns them a dcon. An' the thinks there no mony like ber In the toon: If she does ony good turn fu loudly she'll blaw. She's rale food o' herself, my auld mlther-ln-law. Some nlcht I will open my mind on her yet. An tell hero somethlrg she wlnna forget; Til tell her she !nn come here and xnlsca. Folks wha. river hae herme'd her, my mlther-ln-law. ' Glasgow Mali. BIGOTED EASTERN WOMEN Ellsabeth Cady Stnnton Shoivs Folly of Zealots "Who "Would Restore Gloomy Puritan Sabbath. An organization of women Is now mak ing an effort to secure more rigid Sunday laws in the East. At a recent meeting they expressed a'strong desire that the American exhibit at the Paris Exposition should be closed on Sunday, the only day the masses could enjoy Its wonders. They have also made an appeal to the Drug As sociation of Philadelphia to sell no candy, cigars or soda water on Sunday, and Sab batarians are making war on the little bootblacks and newsboys ot Baltimore, for plying the trade which Is so necessary to their very existence on Sunday. Others again ask that their bishops forbid that flowers for Easter be delivered on Sun day. Discussing the matter, Elizabeth Cady Stanton writes, in the New York Sun, that "If women, with their rapidly Increas ing Influence in public affairs, continue to move on this line, we shall risk tho sec ular nature of our government, so care fully guarded by the Fathers, and re establish the old Puritan Sabbath, with all Its absurdities and restrictions. A wag. In speaking of those times, said facotlous ly: "Under the old blue laws of Connecti cut a man could not kiss his wife nor a hen lay an egg on Sunday. "Instead of making restrictive laws, the best Influence women can exert In this direction Is to do all In their power to make Sunday a day of Innocent pleasure and laitlng profit for tho masses. Let them open all the schoolhouses and as semble the children of tho poor, to enter tain them with beautiful stories, with some high moral purpose. Interesting facts ot animal life and illustrated lectures, for audiences of working men and women, on history, science and philosophy, adapted to their development. Opi tho libraries, museums, the art galleries, elevate the drama, for those who are not Interested In theologies and church services. Coming home from, the Episcopal Church, with a boy 12 j ears old one Sunday, he raid: "How tired I am of "Thou shalt not"; it seems ns if tho Lord forbids everything that a boy enjoys, and commands every thing that 13 disagreeable.' "Another set of women are making war on the bicycle; they wish that repressed on Sunday. Others wish to stop all the cars and omnibuses, and compel the la boring classes to spend tho day In the gloomy tenement flats, thus preventing all excursions to the parks or the country. where families now go with their lunch baskets to spend the day and get an oc casional glimpse of tho grass, the trees, the flowers, the sunshine, and brcatho the fresh air, never vouchsafed In their gloomy homes. "Liberal thinkers have been working for years to lift tho peoplo out of their superstitions and make the day ono ot rest and pleasure, a necessary change of employment for the health of body and mind. This clas objects to tho woman suffrage movement, lest, having the pow er, woman's influence should always be In favor of restrictive religious legislation; they would put God in the Constitution, insist on having tho Bible read in all our public schools, and 'thus set Catholics. Jews, Christians and free-thinkers by the ears, and In due time plunge U3 again Into religious wars, the most bitter ever known In history." SENSIBLE DUTCH CUSTOMS. Girls TanKht to Know Something and Become Good Wives. Most of the better classes In Holland set great value on a good education for their girls, the learning of languages be ing considered superior to the cultiva tion of accomplishments, perhaps for tho reason that the native language is of little value, outside the country. Many clever Dutchwomen are unable to sing, play or paint, yet are renowned for their talents. A thorough domestic education is insisted upon; it is considered a dis grace for a girl to be Ignorant of sewing, washing, ironing, houskeeplng. arithmetic and cooking. Under tbe head of sewing, are included the arts of fine darning and mondlng and underclothes making. After leaving; a first govencss, who is An Easter dresa vrith panniers. . generally cither English. French or Ger man, girls not of the highest rank, says a writer in McCall's Magazine, go into tho primary schools, and then to the high schools Hoogcre, Burger-schole. Voor. Melsjc! or into some of the excellent boarding-schools, in which the best of ed ucations Is combined with the simple food care and amusements of quiet homes! Only the upper-class parents send their girls abroad to school, but after taking them from the national establishments they supply them with finishing lessons from many masters and mistresses. It is the mother who chiefly teachts the domestic arts. The daughters are brought up to admlro clever housekeep ing and housewifery generally, and to ,..,,. lur me, nnie wnen they them selves will have to manage a household When a Dutch rtrl ! -.hn... ie -v.. ,1 confirmed: her education Is supposed to w urasnea ami sno enters society. Ono pleasing custom Is. that after becoming ensrared- sh ! rwt nnit. nTt.mi ... . ----. ---- ". ...j .u.,i-u. uul so cially Is obliged, to call upon her rela- nvea. inenos ana acquaintances, with her fiance. In nnlnr in Intmim. vi c? betrothed girls would, no doubt. And these vmmis irymg oraeais. yet the Idea of show ing her future husband to those dear to her is a charmingly natural ono. Until this little ceremonv h-is tnkn nii tv engaged pair are not supposed to go uuoui ireeiy aiono, Dut alter It they may dons they pleapo In most matters. Very long engagements are usual In Holland, as dowries are rare, and neither ambition nor financial reasons are often allowed to stand In the Way of a betrothal betwivm rrmrti ttMr wKrt I.-- atia ,.,. er. The Dutch have bei called a prosalc- minaeil peop'e. yet In this way they set morn romantically dlsposltloned nations an example. SAl'CE FOR GAXDER. Baltimore "Woman SnKtrest That Some One- Write Rnle for 3fen; "I do wish someono would write a few rulra for men." said a young married woman recently to a reporter of the Bal timore News. "I'm awfully tired of read ing In magazines and newspapers that I must meet my- husband when he comes home from his office 'pleasantly and cheerfully;' that the house must be llko a now pin; I must bo prettily gowned; tho dinner must be daintily cooked and sorved. and that he musn't be worried with a recital of tho troubles ot the day, no matter If delirium supervenes for me. "These precepts aro all right theoret ically and, under ordinary circumstances are practical. Every woman follows them Instinctively who wishes to retain her husband's admiration, but why aren't there a few laws of this sort laid down for men to follow? Why Isn't there poma ono to tell them to look cheerful wlren the'y come In, and to forbear to "grumble. If dinner Is a trlflo late for any good reason: to bo a little sympathetic and af fectionate and remember that theirs are not the only troubles In the houe? "According to th ordinary writer, a woman's whole married life should be spent In practicing expedients to keep her husband's love from growing cold, while he apparently may pursue any course ha pleases, civil or uncivil, tyrannical or gen. tleroanly. and be sure of retaining hers. This may not be the mascullno idea ot tho case nt all: the sterner sex may not really expect to gt the whole globe and give nothing In return, hut It Is not tha writers fault if they don't. I sedulously keep all such articles, away from John, for he's a very good husband and I'm afraid such literature would put Ideas Into his head and spoil him. "Now, poor unenllgr eneil soul, ho has an Idea that my side, o'f the partnership has Its own worries and he tries to help me straighten them out. but who knows how he would change ir he ever discov ered thit he Is really made of china and has to be handled with cam to keep from being broken." "OCTAVE THAVET." Miss Alice French Armnmril the Xom de rinme by Chnnee. Miss Alice French, "Octave Thanet." whose new book of short stories shows.her Interest in the industrial world of tha West and the Southwest, spoke to a friend not long ago on the origin of her pen-name. "My writing and my pen-name are pure ly matters of chance. I had my first stories In my mind for years before I put them on paper, and I only disposed of them then because I thought they might aid the peoplo whose cause I was inter ested in. 'Octave, the first part of my pen-name, was the Christian name of a schoolmate who was a great Inspiration to me In my writing, and Thanet was the name of a freight car which, the chil dren of my neighborhood loved to play in and about." Miss French is fond of housework and cooking, and declares she Is a much better cook than writer. She belongs politically to that branch of the Republican party in the West which endeavors to ameliorate the condition of the workers, and a sub stantial part of her Income Is spent In dclng good. At a labor meeting not long ago she was enthusiastically received as n benefactor, and after she had finished a little speech of advice and admonition she was roundly cheered. "Miss French for ever." "Miss French forever," cried the audience. "At this the presiding officer, a man. arose and replied. "I know you mean well, but there may be come men who hope that the lady may not be Miss French forever." CAKE WHILE YOU WATT. Housekeepers May Save Lots of Time In the Kitchen. Mary Klrnmerly. in "What to Eat." gives a startling new theory on the art of cake baking. She says that the ueual way of mixing and baking cake is a wanton waste of time, and that by following her Ideas, which she has tested to the fullest, one can mix and bake a cake in one-half the time formerly consumed. First, she says, make such a Are as will heat the oven quickly. Now put all your materials together Into your mixing bowl before you begin beating or stirring at all butter, eggs, sugar, milk, baking pow der, flavoring and flour. Commence stir ring and continue steadily until the whole mixture Is a smooth batter. Butter your baking pans and bake as quickly as pos sible, without scorching. While this meth od of mixing a cake is unusual, there Is really no reason why it should not prove practically all right. Try some simple recipe and see how It works. White Cake Whites of four eggs, one cup of sugar, one-half cup of sweet mlik. one-half cup of butter, one-ha-lf cup of cornstarch. 14 caps of flour, two tea spoonfuls of baking powder, and flavor to suit taste. Put ail Ingredients together and stir briskly untlt It Is a smooth bat ter, and bake In a quick oven. Collected by One Woman. Miss Harriette Scott, of New Orleans, has solicited and packed G000 volumes for our soldier lads at Manila. Hundreds ot periodicals have also been given her. and are stacked up In a rocm nt her home awaitlnz shipment. Much of the literature sent her came In response to appe is through the dally papers, and almost ail ot it was ot the better class. l -, W-fccy&ef.&ii AJwKvVis v ., u -a , Jii h3aVf4H(Arajk.!t